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Munch Your Way Through Macau

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Munch Your Way Through Macau CUISINE WORDS: TAMARA OBERHOLSTER If you’re planning a trip to Macau, find out about upcoming events and the latest Macau foodie news and MUNCH YOUR WAY reviews at: www.macaulifestyle. com and visit the Macao Government Tourism website: THROUGH MACAU www.en.macaotourism.gov.mo As the gambling capital of the world, Macau is best known for its casinos, but with its unique fusion of Portuguese and Chinese cuisines, it’s also a great addition to any foodie’s itinerary BAKED TREATS Macau’s most famed snack is the humble egg tart, sold on almost every street corner, although Lord Stow’s Bakery is the best-known spot for them and has several outlets throughout Macau. The filling is slightly sweet and deliciously creamy, with a caramelised top layer. They’re best eaten warm. crushed biscuits (that resemble sawdust) Antonio is the owner and chef, and his Macau is also known for almond cookies interspersed with layers of chilled, speciality dish is seafood stew. He also (often called almond cakes) and if you’re sweetened condensed milk mixed with has a range of Portuguese wines on offer travelling back to Hong Kong after a trip whipped cream or ice-cream. Try it at and apparently his party trick is to open to Macau by ferry, you’ll notice that almost Gelatina Mok Yi Kei in Taipa. Or if you’re champagne bottles with a sword. everyone boarding the boat is loaded with brave, opt for the durian ice-cream instead, boxes from one of the 21 Koi Kei outlets made with the pulp of the notoriously in Macau that specialise in these goodies. smelly, but delicious durian fruit. Choose from savoury options made with lard, salt or even shredded pork, or sweeter RESTAURANT DINING MODERN MACAU choices containing egg or sesame seeds. While it could be argued that much of Macau, also spelled Macao, is an Koi Kei also specialises in peanut and Macau’s best food is served on the streets autonomous Special Administrative ginger delicacies and the popular Chinese or as take-aways, it also offers a thriving Region (SRA) of China and the former snack bakka – sheets of sweetish, salty, dried restaurant scene. Portuguese colony, which lies roughly meat (usually pork). If you’re a little wary, For low-key, affordable dining near 60km west of Hong Kong – just a Koi Kei offers samples of most products to Macau’s historical city centre, visit the 50-minute speed-ferry trip away. entice you to buy. Michelin-recommended Wong Kung Sio Yet, with its cobblestone streets and Kung in Rua do Campo. The sea crab Portuguese signage, it feels at times STREET EATS congee is excellent and the traditionally like a misplaced piece of Europe. If you’re lucky, you’ll find the street pressed bamboo noodles with dried shrimp Macau comprises a narrow vendor who sets up his kam chinbeng (egg roe are also very popular. Wash your meal peninsula that juts out from the crisps) cart on the edge of the historic down with a Macau Beer. mainland Chinese province of Senado Square. Apart from the fact that Restaurante Fernando is a relaxed Guangdong into the South China Sea. chop bun. Although its origin is uncertain, these simple, crunchy treats are delicious Portuguese establishment in Coloane, It includes the islands of Taipa and African chicken seems to have got its name straight off his small coal stove, it’s worth complete with red checked tablecloths. It’s Coloane, joined by the reclaimed land WHEN THE because the dish is prepared with a healthy paying the 10MOP per 100g just to watch located next to the beach and is known for its area known as Cotai, where the “Cotai dose of peri-peri (from bird’s-eye chillies), GETTING THERE them being made, as he turns out batch Portuguese seafood dishes and suckling pig. Strip” of casino developments has been PORTUGUESE brought to Macau from Mozambique. The SAA flies to Hong after batch in minutes. For a fine dining (and somewhat pricier) constructed in recent years. started settling in Macau in the 1500s, they sauce contains coconut milk and peanuts, Kong seven days a Serradura, which translates to “sawdust”, Portuguese experience, reserve a table at the As SRAs, Macau and Hong Kong struggled to recreate their favourite dishes which introduce the Asian flavours, although week. From there it’s is far more appetising than it sounds. Michelin-recommended Antonio’s, which both have their own governments, from home and had to make do with the visitors will find that every eatery serves a a 50-minute speed- It’s a dessert comprising layers of finely is also endorsed by Anthony Bourdain. immigration policies and currencies available Asian ingredients. For example, slightly different take on the dish. Try one ferry trip to Macau. (Macau’s is called pataca, abbreviated dairy products were a rarity, so coconut of the better versions at Henri’s Galley in Visit: www.flysaa.com to MOP, although Hong Kong dollars milk became a useful substitute. The sailors Avenida da Republica. WHILE IT COULD BE ARGUED THAT are also legal tender). While Macau and their families also introduced spices The pork chop bun is a Macanese take came under China’s control in 1999, they’d come across in their travels, such as on the Portguese bifana – a pork cutlet MUCH OF MACAU’S BEST FOOD the influence of its Portuguese history is cinnamon and turmeric, as well as European “hamburger” of sorts. Some are served still evident in its food, language and historical sites, such as the Monte Fort cooking methods, including baking. The boneless (which makes for easier eating), ABOVE LEFT: Crab congee and Macau IS SERVED ON THE STREETS OR result: a delectable Chinese and Portuguese but the bone-in version at Tai Lei Lok Kei (formally Fortaleza do Monte) and the Beer at Wong Kun Sio Kung. Ruins of St Paul’s. mash-up that’s still enjoyed today. in Taipa comes highly recommended and is ABOVE: The historical centre of Macau. AS TAKE-AWAYS, IT ALSO OFFERS A Popular Macanese dishes include Galinha served on a crusty roll with a soft middle. OPPOSITE: The egg crisp vendor at à Africana (African chicken) and the pork Expect to queue for one of these! Senado Square. THRIVING RESTAURANT SCENE. 00 Sawubona July 2017 www.saasawubona.com 00.
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