Issue 18 Spring 2019
Quarterly The eyes & ears of the hospitality industry
100 Most Influential Women in Hospitality Bookshelf confidential • Abstinence • Chef obsessions
Industry £4 / Non-industry £7 1OO most influential women in hospitality
In association with
Building on the success of last year’s list, and Lisa Markwell were Paula Fitzherbert, CODE is proud once again to publish its group director of communications at list of women who genuinely affect change in Maybourne Hotels, the social-media the hospitality industry. Influence takes many maestro Clerkenwell Boy and authoritative forms – from a small but dynamic operation restaurant-watcher Felicity Spector. to a board-level executive who is changing In addition, we are delighted that the recruitment and retention for women. It’s restaurant-bookings platform Quandoo are not just the very visible women who sponsors of this year’s list. An evolved and we celebrate here, although it’s always equal industry means a better business for thrilling to see famous female faces on TV everyone as Pierpaolo Zollo, VP Business and receiving awards. The farmers, the Development knows. “At Quandoo, our accountants, the waiting staff and the PRs passion is the restaurant industry and the deserve acclaim too. people who make it work, so we are delighted The panel making the final decision on to be supporting such a diverse list of this year’s list was made up of people who pioneers from within it. There’s never been a understand the industry both from working more important time to shine a light on the in it and experiencing it as diners, drinkers women paving the way and making waves in and guests. Joining CODE’s Adam Hyman the world of hospitality.” Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk
-10- Chantelle Nicholson Chef patron, Tredwells and group operations director, Marcus Wareing Restaurants
Emily Scott Director and chef, St Tudy Inn
Helen Goh Head pastry chef, Ottolenghi
Hélène Darroze
Chefs Chef proprietor, Helene Darroze at The Connaught
Jane Alty Head chef and co-owner, The Begging Bowl
Lisa Goodwin-Allen Executive chef, Northcote
Mandy Yin Chef and owner, Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar
Monica Galetti Chef and TV presenter, co-owner of Mere
Nicole Pisani Executive chef and co-founder, Chefs in Schools Asma Khan Chef patron, Darjeeling Express (see p58) Nieves Barragán-Mohacho Fans of the wildly popular Netflix show Chef ’s Table will Chef and co-founder, Sabor (see p22) be well aware that Khan made headlines at the end of last year when they announced that she is the first ever British chef to be featured on the show. Khan talks about the Pam Brunton experience in positive terms, saying that she was given the Head chef and co-owner, Inver chance to talk about her story with complete freedom, and address more than just food, she discusses religion, race and immigration, too. Darjeeling Express continues to be Ravinder Bhogal Chef patron, Jikoni one of London’s most-loved destinations for home-style
Indian cooking, served up by an all-female, entirely self-taught kitchen of chefs.
new entry Kady Yon Executive chef and operations manager, Soho House & Co Soho House operates at breakneck speed under the leadership of Nick Jones and his right- hand man Martin Kuczmarski. With loyal but demanding members’, the pioneering private members’ club has to constantly evolve its food offering and maintain standards across the Houses. This is Kady Yon’s role, as executive chef and operations manager. Hong Kong-born, Yon grew up in Chicago where she worked at the legendary Charlie Trotter’s, as well as Jean- Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant. In 2014, Yon helped to launch Soho House Chicago before
coming to the UK, where she has held her Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk current role at Soho House since 2017.
-11- Romy Gill MBE Chef patron, Romy’s Kitchen
Ruth Rogers MBE Chef owner, The River Café
Sally Clarke MBE Chef owner, Clarke’s
Angela Hartnett Chef proprietor, Murano and Cafe Murano
Sarit Packer Co-owner and chef, Honey & Co
Selin Kiazim Chef patron, Oklava
Shuko Oda Head chef, Koya
Mary-Ellen McTague Chef restaurateur, The Creameries
Clare Smyth MBE Chef owner, CORE by Clare Smyth Clare Smyth needs little introduction, having become the first female British chef to hold and retain three Michelin stars. Smyth had a particularly successful year in 2018, with Core being named New Restaurant of the Year by the Craft Guild of Chefs and the 4th Best Restaurant in the UK at the National Restaurant Awards, as well as catering the reception for Meghan and Harry’s Royal Wedding. Fiercely devoted to her job, having admitted to working 80-hour weeks, Smyth continues to trailblaze as one of the world’s most influential chefs.
Natasha new entry Norton-Smith Pastry chef and co-owner, The Fordwich Arms Anyone who has visited the stratospherically successful Fordwich Arms in Kent will know about Natasha Norton-Smith – her incredibly pastry work is central to its rave reviews and the awarding of a Michelin star within a few months of opening. She, together with husband Daniel Smith and business partner Guy Palmer-Brown (both ex- Clove Club), left London to follow their dream of refurbishing the pub – in her case bringing the expertise of years working with Rocket and One Leicester Street. It is a huge tribute to Norton- Smith that her knowledge of the Kent scene and warm hospitality means The Fordwich Arms is as popular with the local residents as it is with
Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk daytripping food cognoscenti.
-12- Laura Harper-Hinton new entry Creative director and co-founder, Patricia Caravan Restaurants Michelson Irha Atherton Founder, La Fromagerie Co-director, The Social Company Michelson shows that if you stick to one thing and one strong brand image, and do it well, it can lead to huge success. La Fromagerie opened in Highbury Sandia Chang Park in 1992; ten years later a second shop opened in Co-owner and sommelier, Bubbledogs and Marylebone, and then in 2017 La Fromagerie opened Kitchen Table in Lambs Conduit Street. Alongside running her three award-winning shops (that aren’t really just shops at all, but cafes, grocers and supper club venues too) and Sarah Gill a successful wholesale business, Michelson has also Restaurateur and co-owner, written two books: The Cheese Room and Cheese. The Dairy and Sorella Michelson’s faith in her philosophy and love for food make her a brilliant role-model. Thomasina Miers Chef, author and co-founder, Wahaca Rebecca Oliver new entry Co-founder, The Dusty Knuckle
Margot Henderson & Melanie Arnold Chefs and co-owners, Rochelle Canteen
Erchen Chang new entry & Wai Ting Co-founders, BAO
Gizzi & Rosemary Co-founders of F!LTH
LauraHelen Harper-HintonBowey ChiefCreative development director and officer, co-founder, rhubarb Caravan Restaurants
Prue Freeman IrhaFounder, Atherton Daisy Green Co-director, The Social Company
Monika Linton SandiaFounder, Brindisa Chang Co-owner and sommelier, Bubbledogs and Kitchen Table Nisha Katona Founder, Mowgli Sarah Gill Restaurateur and co-owner,new entry TheZan Dairy Kaufman and Sorella Founder, Bleecker Burger
Thomasinanew Miers entry Chef,Ceri author Gott and co-founder, WahacaHR Director, (see Hawksmoor p26) Restaurants
RebeccaCornelia OliverStaeubli new entry PartnerCo-founder, and groupThe Dusty general Knuckle manager, Ottolenghi Margot Henderson &Skye Melanie Gyngell Arnold Creative director and co-founder,
Chefs and co-owners, Rochelle Canteen Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk Caravan Restaurants Erchen Chang new entry &Sam Wai Clark Ting Chef proprietor, Moro and Morito Co-founders, BAO
new entry Restaurateurs and operators Restaurateurs HelenSaiphin Bowey Moore ChiefChef anddevelopment co-founder, officer, Rosa’s rhubarb Thai, Lao Café and Saiphin’s Kitchen
-13- Sunaina Sethi Operations director and wine buyer, JKS Restaurants The powerhouse trio of Sunaina Sethi and her brothers continue to dominate the London restaurant scene. With her focus both on the wellbeing of the extensive staff and the wine world in which she is a high-flying expert, Sethi is an important role model for those inside and beyond the JKS empire. She marked ten years of the JKS business last year – a huge success in itself - plus the launch of Brigadiers, Sabor and Berenjak. Oh, and she and husband Karan Gokani welcomed a son too. Sethi continues to introduce unusual and high creative wines to the stable of restaurants – which this year will be joined by a new BAO, at London Bridge.
Gizzi Erskine & Rosemary Ferguson Co-founders, F!LTH The two women behind the Filth brand were already very influential in their fields – Erskine has a highly successful career as a food writer, author, chef and TV personality, while Ferguson is in huge demand as a nutritionist, which is already her second career after years as a fashion personality. Filth, the vegan fast- food brand they invented and ran as a pop-up at the Tate gallery last year, has exploded in terms of recognition and success. It is currently operating out of the Dirty Burger site in Shoreditch, garnering queues and huge numbers of social media posts. But far more important than that is the genuine research- and-development skill the duo have brought to the burgers – showing the way to a healthier
Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk but still fun way to eat.
-14- Drinks Social Wine &Tapas onJames Street inMarylebone, London. Passionate aboutsmallgrowers andnatural wines, Patry launched helps hire sommeliers, setupthewinelistsandprovide training. restaurants around where theglobe she growing lineupof all thegroups’ headsommeliers, aswell ashelpingwithAtherton’s For more thanfive years, shehasbeen responsible for managing Patry for her role asexecutive sommelierat SocialCompany. The dominated byindustry red-trousered malewinebuffs, we salute restaurateur asgroup headsommelier. Inan she joinedthechef Patry hasbeenworking withJason Athertonsince2011when sommelier,Executive SocialCompany The Laure Patry Wine writer Beckett Fiona WineCar Boot Founders, SpiveyRuth Osborne &Ruth andwine writer journalist Wine critic, Jancis Robinson OBE andCEO,RareFounder Tea Company LovellHenrietta Co-founder, Vintners Harris Denise Harris Head winemaker, Nyetimber Spriggs Cherie
new entry new entry -15- dominated by men. awardwinner inasectorthat’s previously been in analcohol-driven andismultiple industry works topromote goodhealthandwellbeing LVMH’s Belvederegrowth brand.Shealso of was, for instance, amassive influence on the brings hugeexperience tothecompany. She bartender andworking herway up, soshe than 20years, endasa startingat thesharp has worked for more inthedrinksindustry Seedlip –are predicted tobebignews. Warner the hugesuccessandbranddominanceof herbalremedies English and–givencentury non-alcoholic aperitifsare basedon17th launch underway. Aperitifs, three Æcorn new brandsandhasalready gotamajornew Warner joinedSeedliplastyear asheadof brands, new Seedlip Head of Claire Warner
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Issue 18 | Spring 2019 | codehospitality.co.uk | 2019 Spring | 18 Issue Issue 18 | Spring 2019 | codehospitality.co.uk Communications Zia Zareem-Slade nyoeya fit beinglive. only oneyear of Fortnum &Mason’s website at theBIMAAwards after London’s e-commerce scene, having secured awinfor Atlantic inherportfolio, andishighlyrespected in with brandssuch asSelfridges, John LewisandVirgin Slade hasanimpressive background intheindustry theCity.the Royal Exchange, Zareem- intheheartof 45 Jermyn St.,aswell asopeningarestaurant within store’s oldFountain restaurant intothehugelysuccessful thedepartment the challenge head on:transforming heritage isnomeanfeat, but Zareem-Slade hastackled Safeguarding Fortnum &Mason’s 300-year and history Fortnum &Mason director,Customer experience Partnership &Insights Director,Partnership Ennismore Jules Pearson Group Communications Director, Harts Sophie Orbaum Director,Founding PR Bacchus Menzies Anouschka Marketing Director, D&DLondon Robinson Tiffany CEO, Perowne International Jules Perowne Founder, London PR Network Maureen Mills Founder, GemmaBell &Company (seep.29) Gemma Bell
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T-shirt design. copy…from tolongform andeven Instagram where sheisresponsible for allcreative content, seven years’ experience working at St.JOHN, within theSt.JOHNGroup. She hasmore than brings thiscreativity andingenuity toherrole background inwritinganddesign,Slydell-Cooper belt, includinganMAinshoemakinganda With quiteaneclecticskillsetunderher St. JOHNGroup Communications, Head of new entry Kitty Slydell-Cooper
Media ever) Food &Farming Awards. will host the annual (andmore important than continues to set the agenda. InJune year, this she has won multiple awards for her work –which She’s for almost 30years been ajournalist and the show.compelling andauthoritative voice of GMfoods. Sheila Dillonhasbeen the the rise of BSEor around ‘clean eating’, orthe shockof pasta ordebunking the myths it’s the originsof in ourfood andwhere it comes from. Whether Sunday, isessential listening for anyone interested Radio 4’s Food The Programme, aired every Presenter, Radio4’s Food The Programme Sheila Dillon Director, Me KMC Squared/Eat MeDrink Kate McKenzie TheGuardian critic, Restaurant Grace Dent andco-founder,Editor Dinners Hot Hanly Catherine critic restaurant Times The Sunday O’Loughlin Marina critic restaurant The London Evening Standard Maschler Fay Amanda Ross Co-founder andCEO,CactusTV Co-founder
new entry -17- hospitality community makeherhugelyinfluential. enthusiasmfor thefood and her clientsandenormous on (see p52).Garson’s tenacious negotiating onbehalf has recently openedtwo newrestaurants inHongKong Andrew Clarke, José Pizarro and Simon Rogan, who Tom Kerridge (having hisbestyear ever), OllieDabbous, Gordon Ramsay and Giorgio Locatelli andcurrently reps called Jamie Oliver. More recently she’s represented workedfirst Rhodes, withGary thensignedanunknown leading chefs andfood figures over thelast 30 years. She our hasbeenapowerhouseGarson agentfor many of Founder, Deborah McKennaLtd Garson Borra
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Issue 18 | Spring 2019 | codehospitality.co.uk | 2019 Spring | 18 Issue Purveyors Harrods, Fenwick andMr Porter. Village last year itsproducts andalsooffers at Selfridges, bricksandmortarsite Shop openeditsfirst at Bicester andsilverware.include bespokehampers Wolseley The Corbin &Kingbusiness, growing thecollectionto the of King wasperfectlysuitedtolead theretail arm marketingluxury inboththeUSandUK,Gurvich ininteriordesignand tosuccessfulcareers Thanks 2017. and launched Wolseley The Shopat theendof this tea. CueGurvich King, who saw thepotentialof from topurchase diners theirtableware, stemwear and the years Wolseley The hadreceived numerous requests themosticonicrestaurants intheUK,over As oneof Wolseley Retail,The Shop Head of Gurvich King Gurvich Lauren Founder, Fiona Leahy Design Terri Mercieca andowner,Butcher Butchery Charlotte’s Harbottle Charlotte Co-founder, Bakery Street Pump Joanna Brennan Founder, PolkaPants Maxine Thompson Story Food TheSustainable chef, Director, Grains; and Founder Duchess Glencross Abi andfounder, ProduceFarmer Flourish Killander Calixta Founder, AfroditiKrassa Afroditi Krassa LeahyFiona anddirector,Founder Happy Endings new entry new entry new entry new entry
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new entry -18- how they her to supplythem… couldpersuade her devotion tonature. (Andprobably wondering andshare their admiration fortake onfarming to hear her softlyspoken but authoritative deeply the young chefs andoperators were queuing up new season’s produce at the restaurant last year, Verrow Spring: at adinner to celebrate the adorn bloomsIn addition, beautiful English from Fern flavour over aesthetics. and the importance of truly seasonal fruit andvegetables promotion of Herefordshire since 1996andwasapioneer inthe runs the farm. and Jane Scotter isthe inspirational woman who has exclusively supplied Skye Gyngell’s restaurant the produce. Since 2015,the Fern Verrow farm assets isthe dazzlingqualityof its biggest one of Anyone who haseaten at Spring willknow that Founder, Fern Verrow Jane Scotter She hasworked the landonthe 16-acre site in new entry
Supporters Leaders Ealing, Social Pantry’s London first restaurant. second chance. Last year Head opened Soane’s Kitchen in a employs young men andwomen who are inneed of and mentors closely with Brixton Prison, she personally and reducing reoffending.Through Key4Life and working toward rehabilitating those recently released from prison she isalsoaKey4Life ambassador:acharity that works catering company andcafé that she founded in2011,but her ever-growing Not onlyisHead the sole owner of SocialPantry Ltd Owner andfounder of Alex Head Co-founders of the YBFs ofthe Co-founders and Amy Thorne Chloe Scott-Moncrieff Jones,Lily Bakery Founder, Luminary Alice Williams Founder, Countertalk Wildby chef, Tart; Head pastry Gill Ravneet Chief executive, UKHospitality Kate Nicholls of Food &Wine(see p28) of Food Managing Director, School Leiths Camilla Schneideman Owner, School Cookery Ballymaloe Allen Darina
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new entry new entry new entry -19- new entry Jacob theAngelrounds outthegroup… for now. Table, tuckedaway popularcafé inthebasement.The of thebest recentopenings, Evelyn’s floorandone first with theground floorpub, thecosyMulwray onthe CODE’s influences.The Blue Posts isafavourite of andJewishthe capitalspecialisinginMiddleEastern recentopeningsacross on toinfluencea number of doubting that the Palomar have andtheBarbary gone rumoured. Alongwithherbrother Layo, there’s no London diningscenewithmore sitesinthepipeline year’s the list,Paskin stillremains at theforefront of Despite nothaving openedany newvenues sincelast director,Managing Palomar The Zoë Paskin Karen JonesCBE Holdings and TheBirley Clubs Caprice Group executive director, NewellLilly Managing director, Corbin& King Zuleika Fennell CEO, Wagamama Jane Holbrook CEO, Whitbread Alison Brittain Executive Club director, TheArts Alice Chadwyck-Healey and Chair, andMowgil Hawksmoor PrezzoExecutive chairwoman,
new entry new entry Joanne Searley new entry Operations manager, JKS Restaurants Searley proves that there are many routes into hospitality – and no barriers to reaching great heights. She’s worked in restaurants since she was 16, gathering experience everywhere from D&D London and the ETM Group. Since 2015 she has worked with JKS Restaurants and been an integral part of their growth. With every new opening, Searley heads up front of house to make sure the team are fully appraised of what’s required and to make sure that everyone feels comfortable and confident. As a result, recent openings like Brigadiers and Berenjak have been hugely successful. Searley is also a judge for the front-of- house category of the YBF awards, showing the importance of supporting the next generation of hospitality staff.
Aurelija Sovaite new entry Group general manager, Barrafina
Emma Underwood Restaurant manager, Stem
Laura Montana Co-founder, Montana Fogg
new entry Olivia Richli General manager, Heckfield Place Front of House
Vanessa Xuereb Member relations director, Soho House & Co Is there any keeping up with Soho House and their global expansions? With openings in Hong Kong and Downtown LA planned this year, they’re understood to be also looking at Houses in a number of cities including Tel Aviv, Austin and Milan. And 20 years after starting at the original Soho House on Greek Street, Vanessa Xuereb’s role is to make sure the growing membership are still having a good time, as well as working on all of the new sites. Xuereb is a great example of someone who fell into her role while covering for a friend and has the true hospitality spirit – the party goes where Vanessa goes. Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk
-20- Special mention 2O19
Addyson Pope Head of marketing, Caprice Holdings Ana Goncalves Co-founder, TĀTĀ Eatery Anastasia Emmanuel Chief growth officer, Foodchain Hannah Norris & Victoria Stewart Co-founders, Hospitality Speaks Hannah Sharman-Cox & Siobhan Payne Founder and MD, and festival director, DrinkUp.London and London Cocktail Week Honey Spencer Co-founder, Bastarda Katie Bone Founder, PX+ Festival Zoe Adjonyoh Author and founder, Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen Meriel Armitage Founder, Club Mexicana and The Spread Eagle Sarah Barber Executive pastry chef, The Dorchester Freddie Janssen Marketing manager, Lyle’s Miranda York & Anna Sulan Masing Co-curators, Voices at the Table Georgie Pearman Co-manager, The Talbot Hotel, Malton Lucy Noone-Blake Development manager, R Noone & Son Justine McGovern & Lynne Coyle MW Co-founders, Wine & Spirit Women Issue 18 | Spring 2019 codehospitality.co.uk
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