IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 1

JagdPanzer IV L70 (A) Final Production - Smart Kit by Eric Christianson, IPMS # 42218

Scale: 1/35 Company: Dragon Models Price: $64.99 Product/Stock #: 6784 Website: Dragon Models Product Web Page: View Product provided by: Dragon Models USA

Dragon Models has released their (fourth? fifth?) incarnation of the German IV L70 (A) self-propelled destroyer in 1/35th scale.

The Jagdpanzer IV (Sd. Kfz. 162) was based on the Panzer IV chassis built in three main variants. As one of the -style turret-less The contents of this box include: Jagdpanzer (“hunting tank”) 1 Main lower hull, packaged separately. designs, it was developed 1 Main Upper Casemate and Rear Deck, packaged separately. against the wishes of Heinz 20 sprues in soft, light grey plastic parts, packaged separately. Guderian, the inspector 2 sprues of clear plastic parts, packaged separately. general of the armored Dual-colored, sided sets of individual-link MagicTrack corps, as a replacement for 1 photo-etch sheet, including schürtzen frames. the Sturmgeschütz III (StuG 1 baggie of steel outer-rim wheels and gun mantlet. III). Guderian objected to 1 baggie of six individual wire mesh schürtzen sections – say that three the ‘needless diversion of times fast. resources’ from Panzer IV tank 1 8-page blue and white instruction sheet with 17 steps. production, as the Stug III and Stug IV tank destroyers were still more than adequate Ardennes Offensive and on the wheels installed on the front. for their role. Officially, only Eastern Front. The vehicle This kit contains both steel the L/48-armed vehicle was was nose heavy and difficult and rubber-rimmed wheels, named Jagdpanzer IV. The to operate in rough terrain, allowing the modeler L/70-armed vehicle that this kit leading their crews to nickname to represent either version. was modeled after was named them “Guderian-Ente” Panzer IV/70. (“Guderian’s duck”). To prevent Previously released by Dragon/ the rubber rims of the road DML at least four times, this Originally fielded in the summer wheels being dislocated by the (Smart Kit) release of the last of 1944, the Panzer IV/70 weight of the vehicle, some production version has been saw service in Normandy, the later versions had steel road improved upon by the inclusion IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 2

of 50 new styrene parts, MagicTrack and a 204 piece set of etched brass to complete it. The newly tooled upper and lower hulls properly represent the slightly higher profile of this late war variant. Opening the box As is usual with Dragon kits based on other Dragon kits, about half of the (abundant) parts included in the box are not used. Fortunately, many of these unused parts will be useful for other projects - nice personal weapons, handy pioneer tools, antennas, cables…‘the good stuff’.

Looking at the sprue stamps, the kit appears to be cobbled together using (sprues) from several previous products, including: Pz.Kpfw IV, Pz.Kpfw IV Ausf. H, JagdPanzer IV L70, Brumbär,JagdPanzer IV L70(A)

Sprue stampings of rivets, bolts and two sizes of numerals can be carefully scraped off and applied to the model surface for serial numbers, etc.

The kit comes with a single scheme represented using the ubiquitous Dragon blue-and- white three-view drawing, and a very small (but perfectly registered) sheet of decals from Cartograph of Italy. These include: Unidentified Unit, Eastern Front 1945 in overall German yellow, with brown and green camouflage. IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 3

The Instructions As mentioned, there are sprues from several different Dragon kits included in the box. That said; I found nothing significant as far as errors or omissions. There are some minor inconsistencies and these are pointed out where needed, below. The only criticism I have is that in many steps the exact placement of crucial parts is vague at best, illustrated by a simple arrow pointing ‘somewhere in this general area’. Fortunately, all the tricky areas are documented correctly and fit well.

Things to consider before starting: The instructions contain a Dragon-ism. The ‘Not-Used’ The build sequence is pretty handy 1:1 scale drawing diagram will have you discard straight-forward. The wheels to use when attaching the parts until you are left with six and bogies first, then the various PE and plastic parts sets of rubber wheels and ten track, followed by the front to the schürtzen sections. Be sets of steel wheels, while the and rear lower hull details forewarned, however, that instructions show eight of each, and front deck, the fenders, there is only the left (port) side with an option icon. I guess the rear deck and finally the depicted. You have to do a little as long as you end up with casemate and main weapon, finesse work to mentally flip sixteen wheels total, it doesn’t in that order. Once all this is the illustration the other way to really matter which way you completely dry, the schürtzen assemble the right (starboard) go. Dragon provides plenty of is added. The only significant skirt sections correctly. both types, with an option to departure from the instructions add steel and/or rubber wheels I took was adding the track Finally, the build-it-all-and- as spares on the back deck before the fenders – I didn’t then-paint-it approach will later in Step 8 - so decide what see any benefit from doing work (it’s what I did) but it you want to do and continue it the other way and the easy still pays to plan ahead and on. I chose to make eight sets access to the upper runs of the proceed slowly. of each so that the front two track made things easier when bogies on each side would molding the ‘sag’ into the track. The Build sport steel wheels. One of The front deck must be Running Gear the earmarks of this vehicle was that it was perennially installed prior to the fenders, Right off the bat, literally the front-heavy, which required which isn’t clear from the first part of the first step, the support of the beefier instructions. you will run into a common steel wheels. IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 4

In Step 2, Parts A63 and A65 (Part A48) is on the side closest Testors (black bottle) liquid are shown sort of sitting there to the front of the vehicle. cement to each side of the with an arrow pointing ‘here’. center post of each link and let Part A63 should be attached Aside from these small issues the glue dry for 45 minutes. to the back of A65 first, and (mostly with the instructions) After that the links came up in the assembly then attached the overall detail, fit and a single, easy-to-manage run. to the hull. engineering is excellent. Starting with the bottom of the drive sprocket, I ran the track There are two small bumps The Track up and along the top, adding molded into N12 and N13 that I decided to assemble and length between each return impede the fit of the front hull attach the track prior to roller until I had the right sag, armor (Part B4) (see picture). adding the fenders. The L/70 then down around the rear I shaved these bumps off to comes with Dragon’s excellent wheel and along the bottom get the armor to seat correctly. individual-link Magic Track, back to where I started. I a good choice for this vehicle finished up by adding a drop You might as well remove since it is easy to add ‘track of glue to every wheel surface the four prominent tabs, two sag’ if desired. The links come the track touched and I was on each side, from the main in two baggies; one in light done. Snap. hull now (see picture). The grey plastic, the other in darker instructions don’t show this grey plastic to distinguish Rear-Lower Hull and Fenders but the fenders and upper hull which side the track goes on. The busy rear hull comes won’t fit otherwise. The instructions call for 99 links together in Steps 5 and 6. The (per side), and darn if that two prominent exhaust stacks Remember to fill in the holes wasn’t exactly what I needed found on late-war Mark IV’s in Part B4 as shown unless you to show the loose sag common require that you snip, bend and intend to attach a run of spare to German armored vehicles in glue PE – unusual for Dragon; track links across the front combat. Impressive! Dragon normally a plastic alternative hull armor. did include about 114 per side, is provided. The pipes won’t but some of that track can be In Step 3, the instructions fit without it (see picture). used elsewhere. don’t tell you how to orient the Additionally, I had to open two different (sided) bogies on up the two holes on Part N18 I laid the links out in a single the hull. Just be sure to install to make the stacks fit flush run, added a single drop of them so that the small box with the rear plate. Once IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 5

installed, however, they look hull, although the fit in the (right or left side) links from pretty sharp. back is problematic. I had to the baggie. Looking across the snip a tiny protrusion off each internet I can’t seem to find a There is a substantial box- fender at the back before they single example of this vehicle end wrench that is shown in would seat flush with the hull. sporting this particular run of the image attached to the Once that is done, I suggest track, so perhaps I’m not the ‘G’ fender at the rear of the you start from the back and first one to come up against vehicle, although how it got fit forward and you shouldn’t this issue. I like the look of there is a mystery. Checking have any problem. I commend a busy front-end to the Mark the parts map, it appears to Dragon for revisiting this tricky IV, however, so after a little be Part H6. procedure and improving it surgery on several links I found with each new kit. a way to add the run anyway. The placement of the two air I really like the detail added intake covers (Parts P1 and P3) Front-Lower Hull and Front Deck by the six tiny but visually- in Step 6 is vague and since I’ve been through the bric-à- engaging brackets that hold they cover up a lot of nice brac assembly of the track links the track run in place. detail on the rear fenders, it’s across the front hatch of the important to get them right. I exercised the option in Step Mark IV several times, so I am I suggest you wait until Step 8 to add an additional run of familiar with the procedure. 15, when the intakes are in 10 spare track links across This time, however, I believe place to see exactly where to the lower front hull, securing that something went sideways put them. them with two crossbars from at Dragon. The three links from the unused parts included in the sprue (Parts Q1, Q2 and The design of the fenders the kit. Q3) won’t fit with the three works well with the lower IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 6

Later, in Step 15, the barrel into the port side of the deck. of unused parts, found two that travel-lock will be placed over I really like this version of the did match the instructions and the spare track run. There jack - Dragon keeps improving used those instead. Now that are no attachment points for how these are engineered it is done I don’t really think it the lock – I had to simply lay for assembly - and I like that matters one way or the other. it across the hull-mounted as well. Both sets will fit and do the hardware and drop some glue job. The parts shown in the on it. Strange. Normally in Dragon kits you Parts-Used diagram have more are provided with several fire surface area to attach to the Rear Deck extinguishers to choose from. hull, and for that I think they If you want to use the 14 pre- Only one, however, comes in will work a little better. drilled holes to attach a variety this kit and (unfortunately) it of equipment and tools you will is the wrong design. There are There are three pieces of need to open them up – the two (female) holes in the deck PE that look like cable run instructions don’t tell you this. and two similar holes in the brackets that can be left off The completed jack assembly extinguisher (no male posts) until the end of assembly, is shown hovering in mid-air – so I just sort of put it down which is what I did. this should be attached to the ‘there’ with enough glue to four tiny rectangles molded hold it in place. Casemate and Main Weapon The top of the casemate In Step 10, the picture shows includes several options to two parts (P18 and P19) that show periscopes, corner-firing “This kit was a do not match what I cut off guns and hatches – all well challenge, but I mean according to the ‘Parts Used’ represented in the kit. I wanted that in a good way.” diagram. I dug through the pile IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 7

to pose the round hatch open, use both periscopes and ditch the round corner-firing gun (the curling barrel (I thought) looked odd extending from the flat, angular casemate top).

The only problem encountered was the fiddly nature of the hatch hardware – a four piece assembly (Parts C38x2, C43 and C44) that never wanted to line up right. I ended up burying it in a blob of glue and letting it dry overnight. I felt the placement of the scissor periscope stanchion (Part C51) did not allow the periscope to extend high enough above the surface of the casemate so I cut 1/8th inch out of it before gluing it to the inside of the are actually parts Q38 and Q39 perfectly and were a breeze to casemate. That seemed to do on the sprue. install. Dragon has really set the trick. I don’t know why the bar with their engineering armor periscopes are always The rear of the casemate is here, a process which has molded in clear plastic (??) attached to the rest of the box been a challenge with the late – most modelers will paint via beveled edges that don’t Mark IV’s from (some) other them and use aftermarket want to align easily – they kept manufacturers. I recently lenses or just a drop of Future sliding without anywhere to fit finished Dragon’s latest PzKpfw to represent the glass optics. or grip. I felt the design should IV H (Kit 6611) and that, too, I feel the detail would be have allowed for some kind of made a simple task out of this rendered so much better if they attachment point here. complex problem. Good job. were made of normal plastic. Finally, there are two types of Now to the schürtzen… In my The main weapon and all of photo-etch (21 tiny pieces in opinion, the wire-mesh stand- its detail came together and all) that are supposed to adorn off armor skirts (or schürtzen) fit perfectly – Dragon did a the sides of the casemate. on the JagdPanzer IV L\70 (A) great job here. The gun (and I tried one of each type and are one of the most unique attached periscope) can be decided that I would talk the and appealing features of made to slightly traverse from talk here and let someone else this vehicle, so, regardless of side to side and up and down, walk the walk. Good luck. difficulty, I was going to get but I glued everything down the job done no matter what just to keep it from drooping Stanchion hardware and it took. later on when it hits my Schürtzen display case. The slightly complicated array Dragon includes a handy PE of stanchion braces and piping bending tool that perfectly In Step 13, the parts labeled that support the side skirts fit bends the brass frames that G33 and G34 in the instructions edge the top and bottom of IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 8

each mesh section. This tool up correctly to fit the plastic images can lead you astray worked so well in fact that I connecting points, that is, if you aren’t careful. Refer was sorry to see it head off without destroying the mesh. to ‘Things to consider before into my spare parts box after I had to switch to Plan B. Starting’ to see what to I was done. Aside from that watch out for.] one bright aspect of the task For each assembly, I decided however, the rest required to shave off all the connecting 2. Next, I took a piece of mesh, time, patience, and a little luck. points and glue all the parts to worked it with my fingers both sides of the mesh to look until it was flat, and laid it While the Schürtzen design as if they were connected, and on the matching section in promise is there, the treat the delicate skirt sections the instructions. engineering reality falls short. with kid gloves from then on. Each skirt is held in place using Trying it on a single section 3. I traced the placement of a pair of three-part assemblies seemed to produce satisfactory the PE brackets on to the (one plastic part in back and results, so here’s the approach surface of the mesh section two small PE brackets in front). I took: using the Sharpie. Once you work the slightly bowed wire mesh so it is flat, 1. I started by using a fine 4. I then bent and attached the the problems start with the black Sharpie ink pen to PE framing for the section density of the mesh itself. The mark up the 1:1 instruction using the handy two-part four plastic (male) connecting sheet drawing itself to make bending tool Dragon included points for the two PE parts a paper template, filling with the kit (works great!). cannot be pushed through the in the PE brackets with I bent each piece once, mesh from behind, and it is the dark ink. (I chose the troweled in some extra-thick nearly impossible to drill holes lower option of the two in super glue along the center through the mesh that line Step 16). [Careful – these line, slid it over the mesh, IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 9

carefully crimped it with glued them to the other side Once I had completed all the tweezers, and then pressed of the mesh, lining them up sections I intended to install on it under 100 tons of scale with the PE parts. the vehicle, I carefully set them weight (about 10 pounds of aside to dry on a cotton towel scrap steel chunks I have). I 7. The last step was to glue the that I could use to hold them repeated this procedure for upper (plastic) attachment during airbrushing later on. the other end of the mesh. hardware (Parts T25) to the (See picture). back of the mesh section, Painting and Finish making sure to line each one I decided to finish my 5. Next I applied the super up where it’s supposed to go vehicle using the scheme in glue to the four black by test fitting each section to the instructions as a starting Sharpie marks on the mesh the horizontal pipe running point. The only items I left and dropped the PE parts along the side of the vehicle. off the completed model for (MA32), carefully pushing There are small detents on painting were the antenna, them into the mesh until the pipe that will receive this the two spare wheels, the I could see the glue ooze hardware. barrel travel lock and the wood through the two holes on block. These were painted 8. Finally, I did not see any each piece. That way I could separately and attached just practical way to attach be pretty sure they were before weathering. Painting and the front plastic triangular going to stay put. finishing followed these steps: sections (Parts T8 and T17) 6. Once dry, I shaved the to the mesh sections so I left (Note: I thin all Tamiya paint connecting points off on the them off. and primer products 50:50 two plastic parts (T10) and with Gunze Mr. Color Leveling IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 10

Thinner, which has its own Desert Yellow (XF-59), Deck 5. While the Future was drying, retarder for airbrushing. If Tan (XF-55) and Flat White I painted the wooden you haven’t tried this thinner (XF-2), which results in a portions of the pioneer with Tamiya paints, you really color that is close to Tamiya tools Vallejo Acrylics New should. I use a Pasche-H Buff, but a little more yellow Wood and all the steel parts Single-Action airbrush, Number than brown. I sprayed it Tamiya Metallic Grey (XF- #3 tip, at 20 lbs. pressure for carefully, allowing a hint 56). For Vallejo paints I mix everything. I use Vallejo’s own of the black to show along a tiny bit of Vallejo Slow Dry thinner for all Vallejo paints.) the edges and behind the and water with each color pioneer tools, etc. until it flows smoothly off a 1. I started by airbrushing a red sable brush. primer coat of Gunze Mr. 3. Next I applied the second Surfacer 1200 to give the (mottled) camouflage coat 6. To give the wooden parts plastic and PE some grip for using Tamiya Olive Green of the tools more depth, I the following coats, followed (XF-58), following that with brushed on a little Mig Wash by an overall pre-shade coat spots of Tamiya Flat Brown Brown oil paint straight of Tamiya NATO Black (XF- (XF-10). I also gave the from the tube and let that 69) – this would fill in the schürtzen a dusting of Flat set overnight. Don’t let dark recesses and provide Brown, laying the ground this paint leach out its oil the shadows near the flat work for some rust washes beforehand, like you would surface edges, adding and pigments applied later. when you are using oils for depth to the camouflage dry-brushing. The oil helps coats to come. 4. Once the camouflage coats it stay workable. In the were dry, I hand-painted morning I carefully removed 2. Next came the first the areas that would receive most of the oil paint using a camouflage coat consisting decals with Future. brush dampened with Mona of a mixture of Tamiya Lisa, leaving the areas near IPMS Seattle Chapter Newsletter Page 11

the latches and metal parts straight from the bottle, Conclusion darker than the center of the paying special attention to This kit was a challenge, but wooden shafts. Finally, I let the welds, buckles, pioneer I mean that in a good way. a little black wash puddle up tools, wheels etc. There are many intricate on the horizontal surfaces of parts – schürtzen, periscopes, the metal axe head. When 10. Before applying a flat coat, hatches, track… but nothing dry, this gives it a convincing I dry-brushed the vehicle that got in the way of a look of used steel. to lighten things up a little, thoroughly enjoyable build. using Mig Abt155 German Dragon keeps on improving 7. I applied the decals using Three-Tone Fading oil how their kits come together, the Red and Blue Micro Sol/ paint that I let sit for a and that is one thing that really Set system without any while on cardboard to leach sets them apart. problems. After I was sure out as much of the oil as they were dry, I hand- possible before applying It’s easy to conclude from this brushed another layer of it the protruding detail review that many parts do not Future over each decal to and wheels. fit, or that the instructions are seal them between layers not up to the task, but doing of acrylic. 11. I followed this with a ‘road- so would be a mistake. For dusting’ coat of Vallejo every part that doesn’t quite 8. Next, while I still had a flat Model Air Light Brown fit, there are 100 that do, and coat on the model, I applied and then shot the whole they fit perfectly. There are several filters to enhance vehicle with Vallejo Flat a lot of things that make up the colors. I first gave the Varnish to kill any shiny a Dragon armor kit, and the whole vehicle a filter of MIG spots still remaining. I cut overall design, engineering and Wash Brown. I then gave each of these 50/50 with attention to detail are beyond the jack and spare track Vallejo Airbrush Thinner to reproach. I always look forward runs a filter of MIG Black. I improve flow. to building new armor models applied a filter of MIG Dark from Dragon. Rust to the rear exhaust 12. Finally, I applied a light filters, the schürtzen racks dusting of various Mig I would like to thank Dragon and the schürtzen itself. pigments, light earth tones Models and Dragon USA for Finally, I used several filter such as European Dust providing this kit for review, applications of Paynes Gray and Dry Mud for the body and to IPMS USA for giving me and Dark Rust on the track and wheels, Dark Rust, the opportunity to build it. sections. I heavily thin all of Concrete, European Dust my washes and filters with and Black for the track. Mona Lisa White Spirit. 13. I attached the schürtzen 9. I then gave the vehicle a and antenna and took out pin wash using Mig Dark my camera. This little dude Wash (aka Raw Umber) was done.