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From the Sierra de Aitana to the Serra Gelada through ancient Arabic lands Route 14 From Alcoy to La Vila Joiosa

1 • La Serreta 9 • Castle: Castillo de Penáguila 20 • Reservoir: Embalse de 29 • la Vella 2 • Castle: Castillo de Penella 10 • Ares del Bosc Guadalest 30 • Beach: Playa de l’Albir 3 • Paraje del Salt 11 • Aitana 21 • Waterspout: Font de Les 31 • Mount: Serra Gelada 4 • Ravine: Barranc dels Horts 12 • Farm: Partida de Xarquera Salines 32 • Islet: Illeta de l’Olla de Marra 13 • Waterspout: Font del Arbre 22 • Pas del Comptador 33 • Islet: Islote de 5 • Mount: Sierra del Rontonar 14 • Waterspout: Font del Espinal 23 • Waterspout: Fuentes del Algar 34 • Racó de l’Oix 6 • Summit: Cumbre del 15 • Waterspout: Font de Forata 24 • Fortress: Fort de Bèrnia 35 • Beach: Playa de Poniente Rontanar 16 • Castle: El Castell de Guadalest 25 • Mount: Puig Campana 36 • Theme Park: Parque 7 • Castle: Castillo de 17 • Caserío de Abdet 26 • La Lloma temático Terra Mítica 18 • Waterspout: Fuente de 27 • Beach: Playa de la Olla 37 • Beach: Playa de Levante 8 • Hermitage: Ermita de Partagat 28 • Beaches: Playas del Cap 38 • Beach: Playa de la Vila Joiosa Torresena 19 • Castle: Castillo de Sella Blanch RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:19 Página 143

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El Castell de Guadalest 38º 40' 61'' N 0º 11' 9'' W

This route will allow us to explore the Aitana sierra and the From Alcoy to Benifallim over the spectacular valleys with beautiful towns nestling on their hillsides of the Hontonar sierra north-facing slopes. Former land of Moors [post- reconquest Arabs converted to Christianity], in this From Alcoy to we will have to take the CV-70. territory it is noticeable how the former inhabitants of this Along this road, close to Alcoy, we are accompanied by territory exploited nature in the most beneficial and the pleasant pinewood of the Serreta and, when the respectful way: terraces of dry-stone walling and irrigation landscape changes and on the slopes of the ravines we channels to irrigate just a few metres of places where glimpse crops of almonds and olives, vines and cereals, nature is the undisputed powerful queen. From the Aitana on our left we will discover Penella castle, belonging to sierra we have spectacular views that enable us to see, the municipal district of . Penella castle, among other places, our next destination: the Bèrnia situated in a delightful setting, is a 13th century Spanish sierra. We will be left in wonder and delight getting to construction located on the Cerro de Sant Cristòfol. A few know these spots and, if the heat gets too much, we will kilometres further on we come to the town of Benilloba. visit the waterspouts of the Fuentes de Algar, a real natural This former Arab hamlet responds to that with its steep, water park in the Region of Valencia. Travelling through La narrow streets surrounded by whitewashed houses. we will reach the coast, where the city of Benilloba is a rich and prosperous town, forged in the Altea awaits, muse of artists and craftworkers. From this heat of the powerful textile industry of the region to point, and until we reach Benidorm, the end of our route, which it belongs: El Comtat. We notice in this we will pass though the Serra Gelada, a coastal sierra with municipality the delightful places there are around it. beautiful cliffs and magical small islands just off the coast: These spots are the result of the river Frainós running by a spectacular route through mountains and along the the town. So, we will visit the spot named Salt [from the coast that will allow us, in a few short kilometres, to pass Spanish for “leap”, not the English word!], where there are through places as different as the Aitana sierra and remains of an Arab aqueduct, the course of which is now Benidorm, a capital of tourism. covered under a green mantle. Following the river we will RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 144

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

Over the hillsides of the Aitana sierra on the way to El Castell de Guadalest

Our next destination is Penàguila. From Benifallim we will have to take the CV-785 to reach this municipality. On the way we will find ourselves in the harmonious and relaxing spot formed by the farmstead, the hermitage and the Sena tower. Having arrived at Penàguilar, its rich architectural heritage gives the impression that the town has been a privileged witness to the history of this area. After the conquest by Jaume I, at Penàguila, due to the abuses from the Spaniards, the Moors of the area rebelled. The Arab leader Al Azraq, who dominated the Gallinera valley came to the aid of the infuriated rebels although the Spaniards El Castell de Guadalest 38º 40' 64'' N 0º 11' 9'' W eventually put down the rebellion and Al Azraq died in Alcoy in 1276. Due to Penàgulla’s strategic reach the Cuixot ravine, where we find the remains of an importance, Pere III of Aragon did not restrict himself to arch-shaped bridge of Arabic origin. From Benilloba we facilitating the arrival of Spanish colonists, but rather, in head along the CV-787 as far as Benifallim, on a 1278, when he signed Penàgulla’s town charter, he continuous uphill climb along the length of the Horts de obliged the hundred Spanish colonists by contract to look Marra ravine. Having reached the tiny town of Benifallim, after the castle and build houses and defensive walls its single-storey buildings with wrought iron grilles around it. Later, Penàgulla was besieged in 1356 by the immediately attract our attention. At the foot of the troops of Pedro I, the Cruel, who ended up being Rontanar sierra, in this space next to the village, we find defeated, which made the king of Aragon concede spots with abundant masses of Holm oaks and pines, so Penàguilar the right to be called Villa Real [Royal Town] much so that the place has been declared a micro- and to have a vote in the courts. As a royal town, reserve for its flora. At Benifallim, another of the Penàguilar sheltered the houses of the nobles of different outstanding features is the castle, set on a rocky ridge dominions of towns in the region and so, we can find commanding a very wide visual domain that takes in the different houses of the nobility, of great architectural and castles of Cocentaina, Penelles, Penáguila and La heritage value. Of the former defensive wall, only a few Costurera. From the town we can also make an excursion towers and portals remain, outstanding amongst which is, taking us to the summit of the Rontanar, at 1,330 metres, undoubtedly, El Portalet, a curious gate that impeded following a road that will take us past the great snow- entry into the town in a straight line, obliging those storage pit of this sierra. entering to make two right-angled turns, thus increasing control over the people who entered. The castle, for its part, declared of Cultural Interest, is in a half-ruined state. In the vicinity of its urban centre we will visit the palace and Garden of Saints with its museum-house. This is a RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 145

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romantic garden which displays within its interior area after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609 was slow botanical species unique in the area and a charming tree- and scant and the Arab traces are perceived in modern lined maze. We leave Penàguilar on the CV-781 in the times in the water channels and ways in which the springs direction of and, before reaching this town, at the are made use of. These are intelligent water management point where the road divides and becomes the CV-770, on systems that are today part of a living cultural landscape; a there and back stretch we will make a visit to the small dams, irrigation ditches, public washing places, peaceful and beautiful town of . Walking around watering pools, cisterns, waterwheels… We can find these the streets with their harmonious vernacular architecture, demonstrations of Arab engineering both in the we come to the palace-tower of the Barons of , mountain areas (with public waterspouts such as those of declared a Place of Cultural Interest. Within its municipal Forata, Arbre, Espinal, Partagat, Xorrets, Salines or Molí) and boundary, we come to the town of Ares del Bosc, where in the urban areas. They are a singular human work and the 16th century palace of the Marquises of Bosc is heritage to make beneficial use of water, in a readily situated. In the environs we will find the remains of what accessible and convenient way. We can also see signs of was the Arab town of Frainos, abandoned in 1609. Having the Moors passage, in the terraces, crops in impossible returned to our route, we come to Alcoleja where we are places that form spots of unique beauty, such as when the pleasantly surprised by the ruggedness of its mountainous green of the olives blends with the whitey-grey of the setting, at the foot of the Aitana sierra, with a landscape limestone rocks. In the area of the shaded side of the dominated by crops of olives and almonds, that drive the economy of this mountainous population. Its closeness to the Aitana sierra turns it into one of the favourite access Sierra Aitana 38º 38' 61'' N 0º 10' 24'' W points for hikers to set out on the different routes there are in the sierra. Within the town we will visit the mediaeval part of the village, presided over by the remains of the Marquis of Malferit’s palace. The most outstanding features of this palatial house are the unusual tower adjoining the building, in a good state of conservation, and the great gateway with a semi-circular arch. From Alcoleja we will take a pleasant quiet rural road. On this stretch we will visit the town of Beniafé. We will pass through the district of Xarquera, negotiating next a narrow pass at over a thousand metres above sea level. Once we have reached the top of this hard climb, the views that open out before us are impressive. Castle presents itself on a seemingly inaccessible hill, and the Guadalest valley and some of the hamlets that shape it today are glimpsed in the incomparable natural setting of the Aitana sierra. And we say they shape it today, given that before the expulsion of the Moors there were twenty centres of habitation in the valley, and in present times there are only six: Confrides, Abdet, Benifató, Beniardà, and Guadalest castle. The repopulation of the RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 146

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

Sierra Aitana 38º 38' 61'' N 0º 10' 24'' W highest close to the coastline of the entire Valencian coast. The Aitana sierra stretches out over an area of Aitana sierra, on the different plains we come across at approximately two thousand hectares. In the landscape of great altitudes, farmsteads are situated, hundreds of years the sierra rocks and boulders are overwhelmingly old. They are the nerve centre of an agrarian life formed by predominant. What is most eye-catching about the fields of crops worked in dry-stone walling. Along with the summits of Aitaina are the sheer cliff-like rock walls caused farmsteads, the Aitana sierra does not lack more modest by a fault running west to east and which has constructions either, like the corrals, houses, lambing spectacularly split the anticline that forms the sierra, as we sheds or refuges. Another unequivocal sign of the passage can splendidly see from the Fuente de Partagat. From of the Moors through this area are the spectacular castles, there, climbing up a little further, we will reach the Simas like that of Confrides, already mentioned, and those of El del Partagat: huge rock formations, hanging over a void Castell de Guadalest or Sella, which had the function of and split apart with huge fissures over eighty metres deep, refuges, lookouts and the defence of the outlying hamlets. a breath taking natural spectacle that also includes the We now arrive at the town of Confrides, former settlement quirky rock formation of the Penya Forata. Incredibly from of Aljófar, already in the interior of La Marina Baixa region the Simas del Partagat, on clear days, we can enjoy wide and in the upper part of the Guadalest valley. It has, panoramic views that enable us, at a glance, to make out therefore, the dual function of being the first mountain without any difficulty almost the entire territory of village, but also the last of La Marina. At the town’s plaza Valencia. Southwards there is the whole of the coast we find the symbol of Confrides, a magnificent walnut between the Penyal d’Ifac and the sierra; only tree hundreds of years old. As we leave for , on the Benidorm remains hidden by the impressive limestone left we will see the small and charming hamlet of Caserio mass of Puig Campana. To the east the urbanisations de Abdet. Here we can see the first “trinquets” [where a along the coast, the Bèrnia sierra, the Montgó and, if we local traditional ball game was played] in the Region of look really keenly, the island of Ibiza. To the north, this Valencia, dating from 1772. This trinquet is, moreover, panoramic view is closed by the unsurpassable sierras of unique in that its particular dimensions are such that it is La Serrella and Alfaro, between which we glimpse the gulf possible to play the historic game of pilota: Pilota grossa. of Valencia and the sierras of the interior of Castellón. The trinquet was remodelled in 2006. Once at Benifató, Away to the west, above all, the summit of Montcabrer what most attracts our attention in this town is the parish stands out. The potential vegetation in the area is the church of Sant Miquel, with its original belfry set apart Holm oak, although today they only remain in isolated from the rest of the building. From Benifató, we will get to patches. The most attractive to travellers are the bush or the Aitana sierra along a road that leads to the Fuente de tree varieties that develop in humid spots, as is the case of Partagat and its recreational area. This is a good place to yew, ash and Montpellier maple. We highlight this last mention that the Aitana sierra, with its 1,558 metres above species, of which we find numerous examples in the sea level, is the highest spot of the mountains in the south vicinity of the Fuente de Partagat, as it is one of the of the Region of Valencia. Close by, almost an extension of southernmost outposts of the species on the peninsula. Aitana, the 1,410 metres of the Puig Campana make it the Walking through the sierra it is possible to enjoy the RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 147

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presence of birds of prey like the peregrine falcon, golden castle on the Peña del Castellet, declared a Place of eagle and Bonelli’s eagle. Spotting mammals is more Cultural Interest. Before heading for the municipality of El complicated, since the possibilities of coming across Castell de Guadalest we should visit the Pas de species like the mountain cat, marten, fox, wild boar or Comptador, on the Aitana sierra, thus named because it badger are unlikely, as they are nocturnal. Easier to see was so narrow the shepherds could count their sheep might be the hedgehog, wild rabbit, hares and rats, as through it one by one. well as a whole series of reptiles like the ladder snake, the Montpellier snake, and the snub-nosed viper [none of which are dangerous]. In the Aitana sierra we can also From El Castell de Guadalest’s castle come across the snow pits (in this area called “pous de to the Fortress of the Serra de Bèrnia neu”), so characteristic of the mountains. After having got to know the Aitana sierra and returning to Shortly after leaving Benimantell we enter El Castell de Benifato, we now head for the village of Beniardá. We Guadalest. Historical capital of the valley, the whole discover there a small town, situated almost on the shores village has been declared a Place of Cultural Interest. of the Guadalest reservoir. Like the rest of the towns in the This town is reached through a natural opening in the valley, it presents streets set out at the service, in its time, mountain, on which the municipality is situated. It is a of a mediaeval society in which the location, structure and hill over five hundred metres high on which the town materials, not only served for living comfortably - narrow sits. The most outstanding feature of the village, and streets cool in summer, walls of limestone and clay - but not just for being on the highest rock of the town, is they also served as defensive lookouts and to watch over undoubtedly the castle of Sant Josep, from where there the crops and livestock. The most attractive activity we are some extremely beautiful panoramic views of the can undertake in Benardña is, perhaps, to take a stroll area. The castle played a very important role around the environs of the Guadalest reservoir between throughout the Middle Ages and in modern times, peaceful fields of olive and almond trees. We must also thanks to its strategic position. The earthquakes in 1644 visit the Font Vella, with four waterspouts, surrounded by and 1748, and being blown up in 1708 during the War strong, fat, ancient eucalyptus trees giving shade to the of Succession were responsible for its destruction. There whole of the little plaza where there is also a former public is another castle in the town of El Castell de Guadalest, washing place. Another place of interest is the Font de la that of Alcozaiba, raised by the Arabs in the 11th Mesquita, which is set in the environs of where it is century, and of which in present times only a half believed the second largest Mosque in Al-Andalus was ruined tower remains. In the old quarter we find sited. From Beniardá we now head for the next town of different houses of the nobility of great architectural Benimantell. The steep streets of this town have their most representative example in the Trencacames (leg breaker), a Almond trees in Valle de Guadalest 38º 39' 61'' N 0º 12' 1'' W street so named for its steepness. We reach the parish church dedicated to San Vicente Mártir, which is a building of architectural interest for having a curiously hexagonal tower. From this town we can undertake outings to various spots within its municipal boundary. We can visit different public waterspouts like the Font Major, Pi, Salines or that of Molí, with a very well-appointed recreational area. Also interesting are the ruins of the RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 148

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

Polop 38º 37' 08'' N 0º 7' 53'' E

economic activities that we could include in what is interest, amongst which stands out that of the Orduña generically referred to as rural tourism. This dedication family, former lords of the valley, which have various to cultural tourism has encouraged the recuperation of floors arranged according to the level of the mountain a large part of the dwellings of the rural world not only on which they are situated. In El Castell de Guadalest, it in the built-up areas, but also in the rest of the territory is striking how many museums there are in a small of each municipal district. The restoration of buildings village. Thus we can visit the museum of instruments of has a variety of ends that enrich the resulting new torture, the municipal museum Casa Orduña, the cultural landscape: rural hostels, mountain hotels, museum of micro-miniatures, the Guadalest refuges or dwellings of new residents in the area, from ethnological museum, the micro-gigantic museum (of the townspeople retiring and returning to their roots, miniatures and gigantic sculptures), the museum of passing through the children of émigrés of the 1960s nativity scenes and dolls’ houses, the historical vehicle and ’70s who return or remain in the town, and ending museum, and the Ribera Girona museum. Nowadays El up with the British, German or French people who have Castell de Guadalest has become an icon of La Marina discovered their own personal paradises in the Baixa tourism as a supplementary offer to the coastal mountains of the two marine provinces. Even a sun and beach tourism. Its fame is more than deserved farmstead located in the vicinity of Tudons harbour has given its history, architectural heritage, its daring and been converted into an art gallery. So, the hotel and defensive location on some inaccessible crags over five catering trade, accommodation, handcrafts, the hundred metres high and the total conversion to gathering of aromatic herbs… all are the modern work tourism of its traditional agrarian economy. As we and activities in the Aitana-Puig Campana area that come down from El Castell de Guadalest towards have given a new character and reality to some Callosa d’en Sarrià, we can observe how all types of mountains that seemed abandoned to their fate at the crops are grown up the lower slopes of the Aitana, from beginning of the 70s, when tourism was concentrated oranges in the southern and lower areas of the Puig along the coastal strip. Our route now reaches Callosa Campana and Palop, passing to loquats or Japanese d’en Sarrià. This town was famous for its historical medlar, and then on the steepest mountain slopes, disputes over property rights and municipal olives and almonds. The magnificent natural and boundaries, due to the richness of its waters, since cultural landscapes of these sierras have in recent years Callosa is surrounded by the rivers Guadalest, been at the centre of attention of the more sensitive and Algar. Such abundance of water and a benign foreigners and lovers of our cultural heritage. The result climate has favoured the production, on the classic is a tendency towards cultural and environmental terraces, of Mediterranean crops such as almonds and tourism, which has given rise to the appearance of new grapes, and of tropical fruit such as kiwi, mango and, RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 149

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above all, the loquat. Callosa produces over half of the Leaving behind the Casas de Bèrnia, we see that the total national production of loquat, which has been impregnable appearance would have been more real in granted a Denomination of Origin for the entire area. mediaeval times, when the social marginalisation of the Today Callosa is a beautiful, white and ochre-coloured Moors turned the crags and gravel pits into a subversive city with an old quarter in which its church of San Juan refuge hard to control. Today, however, Bèrnia offers us Bautista can be visited, with an original neoclassical no more than motives, sites of both natural and cultural portal, as well as the Portal or mediaeval arched heritagefor the intense enjoyment of a surprising gateway that gave access to the mediaeval town, or mountainous area. There is only one waterspout on the again, the remains of the mediaeval wall situated above circular route, at Cabanes, so it will be necessary to take all at the Plaza del Castell, originally the site of the water and remember to refill flasks. The steep incline feudal lord’s residence. Within the municipal boundary opens up an amazing landscape at our feet. We now of Callosa d’en Sarriá we find two hits with Valencian head for the Forat de Bènia along a delightful path, tourism: the Fuentes del Algar and the Fort de Bèrnia. embedded in the steep slope, from where we can To reach the Fuentes del Algar there is a three-kilometre appreciate spectacular crests of stone that crown the stretch there and back from our main route. So we head sierra. Having reached the Forat de Bèrnia we will realise for the famous gushing waters of the river Algar, a leafy that we are looking at one of the most impressive and exuberant spot, formed by the river Algar at the caprices of nature existing in the Region of Valencia. El foot of the Bèrnia sierra: waterfalls and spectacular Forat de Bèrnia is a tunnel formed without human natural pools of crystal clear water surrounded by assistance which provides a perfect connection exuberant vegetation. Visitors must be aware that in between the shady side of the sierra and the sunny order to enjoy this impressive spot of nature they must face. It is also the most original and unusual means of pay a small admission fee. In exchange, at the Fuentes communication between the regions of La Marina Alta del Alagar you will find all types of services. In the and La Marina Baixa. Given that it is not very high, you vicinity of the Fuentes del Algar a path leads up to the have to go through the Forat crouching down. The defiant summits of the Bèrnia sierra. A circular route narrow opening we enter on the shady side opens out through this sierra and returning to the Fuentes del Algar, could take some six hours

of stiff walking. The outing is Serra Gelada 38º 31' 82'' N 0º 5' 43'' W more than worth the trouble. The path goes up dizzyingly until it reaches the Xaló pass. Here the circular route begins which will take us, in the first place, to the Casas de Bèrnia. On the way there the Bèrnia sierra surprises us, with the image of a shaded ravine with nearly vertical walls that plummet dizzyingly: a lonely, spot worthy of the high mountain, extremely spectacular. RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 150

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

into a great cave which, like a balcony, leaves all of La found situated at the foot of Mount Ponoig, 1,181 Marina Baixa at our feet. On a clear day we will be able metres high, on a hill, surrounding its castle. to see the Serra Gelada, Alacant castle, Tabarca island castle is of Arab origin and was built at the beginning of and cape all stand out clearly. Looking inland the 12th century. It was an important stronghold with we glimpse other mountainous ‘balconies’ that, like great strategic value in the region but, because of the Bèrnia, look toward the sea: Cabeçó d’Or, Peña de conflicts in which it played a leading role, the Migdia, Sierra del Maigmó, Sierra de … Further constructions in its interior were pulled down, the inland, the most emblematic mountains of these materials also being made use of for the building of the regions dominate the landscape: Puig Campana, Aitana, neighbouring hermitage. Among the aforementioned Serrella and Montecabrer. After the Forat, the path conflicts, it is worth summarising the occurrence during heads for the Fort de Bèrnia, witness to one of the the Germanías, when a new Moorish rebellion had its darkest chapters in the history of the Region of Valencia. centre at Polop castle, where the rebels fortified In the year 1562 Felipe II ordered the construction on themselves until they were defeated by lies and trickery the southern slope of the sierra what was named Fort and practically massacred. After wandering around the de Bèrnia. The aim of the building was, on the one village of Polop and discovering its pretty vernacular hand, to prevent Moorish rebellions, and on the other, architecture, we head for the village of , just a to defend the coast against the frequent Berber pirate kilometre away. La Nucia, like nearly all the hamlets in attacks. During the Moorish rebellion of 1609 the rebels the area, was originally an Arab ‘alquería’ or country took charge of the fort, entrenching themselves in it for estate. The surrounding landscape shows an original a year until, exhausted and demoralised, they preferred topography for the presence of various hills that have to die throwing themselves over the precipices of the been made use of for the location of different urban sierra rather than surrender and be expelled. As from developments. In La Nucia, the influence of coastal 1612 it started to be dismantled, since provisioning it tourism has cornered its former agricultural activity. Its was very complicated due to its remote location and urban layout stretches quite harmoniously over an the Spanish Moors had already been expelled. agreeable plain at the foot of the Cerros de les Forques. Nowadays numerous remains of the fort may be Walking through the streets of La Nucia, we come observed: stretches of defensive wall, vaulted across the Seu Unversitària, a building which was constructions, moats and towers of the Fort. After our formerly the San Rafael state school, situated right in look around the Fort de Bèrnia, the road brings us back the urban centre and opened in 1936. The building was to the Xaló pass and, from there, to the Fuentes del altered and extended in 2007, to become the Algar. Returning this way to Callosa d’en Sarrià, we permanent seat of La Universitat d’Alicant in La Nucia. resume our route in the direction of Polop. The project, designed by the local architect José Campos Rosique, represents a bold bid to reconcile the old with the new and is destined to become a From Callosa d’en Sarrià to l’Alfàs reference point for the whole region. From La Nucia we del Pi amongst loquats reach Altea by means of the CV-760; nevertheless, those who prefer the peace and quiet of a cycle ride or a walk We arrive in Polop through a traditional rural landscape may reach Altea through rural landscapes by means of with agriculture which, among the almond, olive and agricultural roads such as that of La Lloma. If El Castell loquat trees, allows citrus crops to be glimpsed. Polop de Guadalest is an icon of tourism in the mountain was the historic capital of La Marina Baixa. The town is region of La Marina Baixa, the cupola of the church of RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 151

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Altea, all in blue with white geometrical decoration, L’Alfàs del Pi, within its municipal boundary, we find crowing the hill of the old quarter, is that of the coast; l’Albir beach, situated at the foot of the Serra Gelada. not in vain is it known as “the cupola of the Continuing from l’Albir beach in the direction of the Mediterranean”. The quietness of the old quarter has for lighthouse along the same coast, we come to a naturist decades, made Altea a place for artists and craftspeople beach with unrestricted access. From this beach an to visit and live: Eberhard Schlotter, Rafael Alberti, excursion sets out to l’Albir along the old road, set out Vicente Blasco Ibáñez, and Josh Rouse. In its urban as an ecological route, offering recreational areas and layout of sheltered steep, narrow alleyways opening out magnificent panoramic views of the coast. Beside the every so often onto vantage points and tiny tree-lined lighthouse there is the Bombarda tower, declared a squares, we come across the Galera tower, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. We can also reach the summit Place of Cultural Interest. In spite of, or perhaps because of Serra Gelada by a well-signposted path. of, its tourist renown, Altea has never stopped being a small fishing town with its white houses, flowers and cobbled streets. As if this were not enough, to the north the Bèrnia sierra creates a shield of solid rock, which prevents the cold winds and external influences from penetrating into the bay, creating a magical microclimate. If we move away from the urban centre towards the line of the coast, we must not miss the beautiful spots like those of the beaches of: La Roda, Cap Blanch, Cap Negret, Cala de Soio or Cala de la Olla. Or the gravel beach like La Barreta. On the other hand, at the foot of the Bèrnia sierra the original site of Altea. We refer to Altea la Vella. If we go there today, we can enjoy a close-knit centre of population with a beautiful Calvary [route with the Stations of the Cross] lined with eye-catching cypresses. After Altea our route makes its Benidorm 38º 32' 23'' N 0º 7' 74'' W way in the direction of L’Alfàs del Pi along peaceful rural roads of Arcs and Altea. L’Alfàs del Pi has acquired international renown for its Film Festival held in July. At L’Alfas del Pi we come across a curious detail and it is that more than half the population is foreign. In fact, L’Alfàs del Pi has the second largest concentration of Norwegian citizens resident outside their country (London has the most). Two kilometres from RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 152

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

The route over the sierra continues up and downhill, passing the ruins of a former coastguard house and a small water well on the watercourse. Halfway along we come to an area where there is a small stand of pines that will serve to rest in the shade, La Vila Joiosa 38º 30' 15.60" N 0º 13' 51.60" W offering us a delightful view of l’Illa Mitjana. The final stretch of scrubland that we will travel through passes over a high point where we can look, once again, at the Along the cliffs of the Serra Gelada, cliffs. From this landmark on we have to watch out so as on the way to Benidorm and La Vila not to miss the path running through low vegetation or Joiosa over bare rock. A few minutes later we reach a cross placed on top of The Serra Gelada is one of the most unusual nature the Racó de l’Oix, where an asphalted track starts that parks in the Region of Valencia, being the first land and leads to Benidorm. Travellers will have mixed feelings at sea park in the territory. The Serra Gelada is a small the sight of Benidorm, but what is certain is that the mountainous range orientated northeast-southwest, Valencian tourist resort will not leave you indifferent. Its separating the bays of Benidorm and Altea. image is unmistakable as few others on the Valencian It is characterized by its asymmetric shape which is coast, not only for its model in height offered for obvious along the whole of its six-kilometre length. In tourism but also for the sheer amount on offer for addition, the group of various islets must be added, two leisure and the quality of its hotels. within the municipal boundary of Benidorm (l’Illa de But above all for its weather, beaches and location, on Benidorm and l’Illa Mijana), and two within the the southern slope of the utterly beautiful Aitana sierra municipal boundary of Altea (l’Olla and the tiny islet of and the Puig Campana, which protect the city from the La Galera). cold north winds. Benidorm is the town with most Within its waters we can find some of the most skyscrapers per inhabitant in the world and the second interesting and surprising areas of the entire peninsular in the number of skyscrapers per square metre after coast of the Mediterranean, the most outstanding Manhattan. being extensive meadows of the protected sea grass What would be the tallest building in , the Hotel known locally as Alguers (Posidonia oceanica) and rocky Bali III, is in Benidorm, and is the tallest hotel in Europe. seabeds, such as La Llosa, with an exceptional biological Also, building has begun on the tallest residential diversity. building in Europe, which will be called Intempo The easiest and most direct way to get up the 435 (200m). As well as skyscrapers, in Benidorm we ought to metres to its summit is by taking the road that starts visit the vantage point on the Poniente beach with its out from the water treatment plant, in the Pla del balustrade of white stone. Cuartel district. Away from the old quarter, the Aigüera green park is Almost at the edge of the cliff there is a trig point, from relevant, designed by the architect Ricardo Bofill, where we can contemplate the majesty of these situated in the centre of the modern city. And all of precipices, where examples of yellow-legged gulls that, without forgetting the numerous leisure parks like flying hundreds of metres below us seem miniscule. the Terra Mitica [land of myths] theme park or that of RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 153

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Terra Natura [land of nature]. A pleasant stroll of two cooking in which other dishes stand out: gazpachos kilometres will enable us to look around the Levante manchegos with pieces of game [rich stew with rabbit beach and the peaceful Poniente beach. Both have and chicken pieces cooked with tomatoes, nothing to assiduous visitors throughout the year. do with the cold tomato soup “gazpacho de Andaluz”], From Benidorm a nice boat trip can be taken to L’Illa fraseures [meatballs], rice with rabbit, gazpacho tibero [the Isle of Benidorm], with exceptional flora and fauna [from Tibi, with rabbit and partridge, tomatoes and on its sea beds. We leave Benidorm to head for Vila mushrooms], llegum amb penques [pulses and Joiosa. vegetables], caragols [snails], minchos [unleavened Having reached this city which closes our itinerary, we bread with wheat and corn flour], coca de sardina and find ourselves in the historic and administrative capital coca de cebolla [sardine and onion tarts]. Without of La Marina Baixa. forgetting the putxero amb tarongetes [stew and It still maintains its ties with the sea, complementary to dumplings], and potaje [thick broth of vegetables and the tourist industry. In this sense we can enjoy the fish pulses]. On the coast we shall taste all kinds of rice auctions in the afternoon, as well as the brightly dishes, especially with fish, like caldero [rice in fish coloured façades for the fishermen, in bygone times, to broth] and arròs a banda - rice with good fish and make out their homes from afar when out at sea. Other seafood. Neither can we forget the oranges, grapefruits, places we should visit in the Vila are the Casa Barbara, mandarins and nisperos [loquats or Japanese medlar], the Roman funeral tower of Hercules and the different which colour the costal landscapes on the fruit trees. beaches, of which we highlight the beaches del Centro, Among the sweets that stand out are: torrat ensucrat del Paradis, the little cove of Racó Conill, where scuba [sugared pulses], brazo gitano [like a very fat Swiss roll], diving or naturism can be done, and the transparent dulces sequillos [dry almond biscuits] and peladillas de water coves of Bol Nou and La Caleta. l’Alcoià [sugared almonds]. A special mention is deserved by the chocolate in Vila Joiosa. With regard to the fiestas, the splendour of the Moors and Christians is Practical information

Fiestas, food and crafts Altea 38º 35' 92'' N 0º 3' 16'' W The cuisine of these towns offers fish and rice dishes, more frequently the closer we get to the coast, and thick hearty stews in towns further inland. Inland and around Alcoy, dishes such as: pericana [cod and dried peppers], olleta [stew], bajoques farcidas [stuffed peppers], pastel de carne [meatloaf], arròs caldós amb conill [rice in rabbit stock] and giraboix [cod, green beans and potato]. It is traditional RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 154

Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa

Altea 38º 35' 91'' N 0º 3' 03'' W

Altea 38º 35' 3'' N 0º 3' 21'' W A mention apart is deserved by the craft displays held regularly at Altea. a reference that cannot be missed on the festive calendar. Recommended time of year The festivities of Sant Antoni, in January; the countless Any time of year is good for visiting, although during romerías [local pilgrimages and religious festivals] to the spring and autumn is best. In summer the hours sanctuaries and hermitages in the area; carnivals around midday must be avoided. [marking the start of Lent] in February; the feast days of In autumn the fields of loquat trees colour the the patron saints of every town and city; Holy Week; the countryside with beautiful shades. The almond Hogueras de Sant Joan [bonfires of St John] in June… blossom between January and February, and cherry Of all the towns and cities through which the route blossom at the beginning of March are also good passes, the celebrations of Benifallim stand out: on the times of year to undertake this route. first Sunday in September the festival of Pan Bendito [Holy Bread] is held, organised by the unmarried men, Public transport in which a procession of unmarried girls carry loaves of The RENFE regional trains stop at Alcoy station for the bread on their heads until they reach the church; in start of the route. For the return, at Vila Joiosa we can addition, other noteworthy fiestas are the Nit de l’Olla take the narrow gauge railway of the FGV (Ferrocarriles [marking the start of the Moors and Christians de la Generalitat). Bicycles are transported free of festivities] in Benidorm in August; dances in honour of charge on the aforementioned transport services. Sant Jaume, held on the 25th July and the Jesuset, on 24th December, in Callosa d’en Sarrià; the landing of the Recommendations Moor at the end of July or the maritime procession in In the case of wishing to travel the route just as it is set honour of Mare de Déu del Carme in La Vila Joiosa; or out in the guide, by bike or on foot, a word of warning: a the spectacular music and fireworks display at the mountain bike is best, or as a minimum, the hybrid type. castle of l’Olla in Altea in August. We do not come across many public waterspouts to With regard to handicrafts in the area of the route, bags quench thirst and refresh oneself away from the urban and shopping baskets are made from palm leaves, as centres, so we should fill up with water whenever we get well as rope soled shoes from esparto or needle-grass, the chance. blankets, saddlebags, cardboard and glass boxes, Both the early hours of the day and at dusk are the times crocheted and woollen shawls and hair adornments. of day with the best light and most agreeable All this without forgetting the embroidery and temperature. The trips on foot or by bike that are needlework, or the tanned sheepskin covered balls for proposed for the sierras of Aitana, Bèrnia and Gelada Valencian pelota, and glass objects. demand a minimum state of fitness. If anyone wants to RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 155

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In order to get to know each area of nature we propose in greater detail, it is recommended that you leave the car parked somewhere safe and secure and undertake make use of the car, on the tracks where it is possible to trips on foot. drive motor vehicles, the main track should never be left, as it is much better and more respectful to the environment.

RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY:

National Geographic Institute: Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 821-III and IV; 847-I, II and IV; 822- III; and 848-I and III. Further information: www.comunitatvalenciana.com Information on regional and local trains: Renfe 902 24 02 02. www.renfe.es

TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE:

Tourist Info Alcoy Tourist Info Tourist Info Tourist Info La Nucia C/ Sant Llorenç, 2 Benidorm-Europa Castell de Guadalest Av. Marina Baixa, 1 - Parque 03801 Alcoy Av. Europa, s/n Av. Alicante, s/n. de la Font de la Favara Tel. 965 53 71 55 (crossing C/ Ibiza) 03517 El Castell de Guadalest 03094 La Nucia Fax 965 53 71 53 03503 Benidorm Tel. 965 88 52 98 Tel. 966 89 56 72 [email protected] Tel. 965 86 00 95 Fax 965 88 53 85 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Tourist Info Altea Tourist Info La Vila Joiosa C/ Sant Pere, 9 Tourist Info Tourist Info L’Alfàs del Pi Av. País Valenciá, 10 bjo. 03590 Altea Benidorm-Rincón L’Oix C/ Federico García Lorca, 11 03570 La Vila Joiosa Tel. 965 84 41 14 Av. Derramador, s/n (Town Hall ground floor) Tel. 966 85 13 71 Fax 965 84 42 13 (intersection C/ Gerona) 03580 L'Alfàs del Pi Fax 966 85 29 47 [email protected] 03503 Benidorm Tel. 965 88 89 05 [email protected] Tel. 966 80 59 14 Fax 965 88 71 12 Tourist Info Fax 965 86 36 25 [email protected] Tourist Info Benidorm-Autobuses [email protected] La Vila Joiosa-La Cala Av. Comunidad Europea, s/n Tourist Info Av. de los marineros, s/n 03502 Benidorm Tourist Info L’Alfàs del Pi-Playa 03570 La Vila Joiosa Tel. 965 85 96 58 Callosa d’En Sarrià Paseo de las Estrellas., Platja Tel. 965 85 10 45 [email protected] C/ Sant Antoni, 2 de l’Albir, 23 Fax 965 85 10 45 03510 Callosa d`En Sarrià 03581 L'Alfàs del Pi [email protected] Tourist Info Tel. 965 88 01 53 Tel. 966 86 70 22 Benidorm-Centro Fax 965 88 01 53 Fax 965 86 70 23 Tourist Info Polop de La Av. Martínez Alejos 16 03501 [email protected] [email protected] Marina Benidorm Av. Sagibarba, 15. 03520 Polop Tel. 965 85 13 11 Tel. 966 89 60 72 Fax 965 86 36 25 Fax 966 89 54 41 [email protected] [email protected]