New England 8

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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Mara Vorhees Thanks to friends and neighbors who have Many thanks to the travelers who used the last taught me so much about New England over edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful the years. I am grateful to my faithful travel advice and interesting anecdotes: Cathelijne Augustijn, Christina Jacobi, David companions, Shay and Van: it’s always more Callow, Doreen Nicol, Katherine Davis-Young, fun to travel – though more difficult to write – Sheela O Regan when you’re along for the ride. And thank you, Jerz, for going along with the sunrise thing, all 19 times (and counting). WRITER THANKS Benedict Walker Gregor Clark Massive thanks to the ever-delightful Rebecca Thanks to all the generous New Englanders Warren for taking me on and for your patience who helped with this project, especially and guidance along the way. Huge hugs to my ­Katherine Quinn, Sarah Pope and Margo twin in the Big Apple, Lyndal Hunt, for your ­Whitcomb. Love and special thanks to Gaen, love and hospitality; to my buddy Peter Falso Meigan and Chloe for helping me explore in Newport for fun and laughs; to my always-­ this beautiful region and always sharing my awesome pals Heather, Pete and Wendy; and to ­excitement for the road less traveled. the master architect, Tom Zook, for your friend- ship, knowledge and support. Finally, thanks Carolyn Bain Mum: I love you to the moon and back. My warmest thanks to all the chatty ­innkeepers, bartenders and barflies I had the good fortune to spend time with – who ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS else would you ask for tips on the region’s Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, best beach/trail/lobster roll/craft brew etc? Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Sincerest thanks to the people of Nantucket World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate for welcoming me back into your fold and em- ­Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System bracing my nostalgia – especially to Roselyne Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Hatch and Tania Jones. Special mention goes to Emily Golin, Carla Tracy, Thomas Masters, Cover photograph: New England during the fall, and ­Kimberly and Barry Hunter for their Libby Zhang/500px © ­kindnesses. 439 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

­Caroline Sieg. This guidebook Michelle Bennett, Samantha THIS BOOK was produced by the following: Forge, Ali Lemer, Rosie Nichol- This 8th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Rebecca son, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, ­Planet’s New England guide- Warren Victoria Smith book was researched and Product Editors Carolyn Assisting Cartographer Julie written by Gregor Clark, Boicos, Kate Chapman, Kate Dodkins Carolyn Bain, Mara Vorhees Mathews Cover Researcher Naomi and Benedict Walker. The Senior Cartographer Parker previous edition was written Alison Lyall Thanks to Amy Irvine, Andi by Mara Vorhees, Gregor Clark, Book Designer Wendy Wright Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Ned Friary, Paula Hardy and Noble, Dora Whitaker Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440

Index

A Center for Maine Yale Center for British Provincetown 151 Abington 254 Contemporary Art 388 Art 264 Rockport 110 abolitionist movement Clark Art Institute 204 Yale University Art Gallery Sandwich 126 414-15, 417 Currier Museum of Art 264 Siasconset 164 Acadia National Park 10, 332 ATMs 431 Truro 149 399-400, 396, 11, 25 DeCordova Museum & autumn colors 9, 282, 355 Watch Hill 235 Sculpture Park 94 accommodations 428-9, see Wellfleet 147 also individual locations East End Gallery District 151 B Westerly 234-5 activities 18, 21-3, 424-6, Wolfeboro 343 431-2, see also individual Farnsworth Art Museum ballooning 292 activities 387-8 Bar Harbor 394-8 Yarmouth 136 Adams, John 116-17 Field Gallery & Sculpture Barn Island 260 beer 19-20, see also breweries & cideries Adams, John Quincy 116-17 Garden 172 Barnstable 131-5 Belfast 391 African American history Harvard Art Museums 55 Bartlett Falls 298 170, 414-15 Hood Museum of Art 338 Bartonsville 295 Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory 314 air travel 434, 436 Hygienic Art 253-4 baseball 79 Bennington 284-6 Alcott, Bronson 93 Institute of Contemporary Bash Bish Falls 196 Berklee College of Music Art 48 basketball 79 Alcott, Louisa May 95, 416 423 American Revolution 410-12 List Visual Arts Center 57 Bass Harbor 401 MASS MoCA 206 Berkshires, the 31, 175, 176, Amherst 188-90 Bath 383-4 193-207, 176, 194 Museum of Art (RISD) 211 Amherst College 188-9 bathrooms 432 Bethel 401-2 amusement parks 347, 358 Museum of Fine Arts Baxter State Park 403-4 (Boston) 53 Bethlehem (Connecticut) antiques 139, 179, 271 beaches 13, 18, 425 272 Museum of Fine Arts Block Island 237 Appalachian Trail 207, 274, (Springfield) 181 Bethlehem (New Hampshire) 288, 356, 402, 425 Cape Ann 108 352 New Britain Museum of aquariums American Art 249 Cape Cod 127 bicycle travel, see cycling Echo Leahy Center for Newport Museum of Charlestown 234 bird-watching Lake Champlain 302 Art 223 Chatham 141 Audubon Sharon Center Maritime Aquarium at North Shore Arts Dennis 137 274 Norwalk 269 Association 106 Eastham 145-6 Block Island 237 Mystic Aquarium & Ogunquit Museum of Edgartown 171 Boothbay Harbor 385 Institute for American Art 368 Bradbury Mountain State Exploration 257 Falmouth 129 Portland Museum of Park 380 New England Aquarium 41 Franconia Notch State Art 373 Park 352 Felix Neck Wildlife Sea Pocket Lab 105 Provincetown Art Sanctuary 171 Seacoast Science Center Hammonasset Beach Association & Museum State Park 253 Grafton Notch State 330-1 151 Park 402 Hampton Beach 330 Aquinnah 173-4 Rocky Neck Art Colony 105 Hammonasset Beach Harwich 140 Arabella 409 Sharon Arts Center 333 State Park 253 Hyannis 132 architecture 13, 211, 270 Smith Art Museum 181 Long Point Wildlife Refuge Ipswich 112 area codes 432 Smith College Museum of 172 Kennebunks 371 art galleries Art 185 Monomoy National Menemsha 172-3 Aldrich Contemporary Art Southern Vermont Arts Wildlife Refuge 141 Museum 270 Center 287 Narragansett 232-3 Nauset Marsh 145 Brush Art Gallery & SoWa Artists Guild 48 New Haven 263 Norman Bird Sanctuary Studios 98 Westport Arts Center 267 New London 255 227 Whistler House Museum Newport 226 Quechee 292 of Art 98 Ogunquit 368 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Map Pages 000 Williams College Museum Orleans 144 Sanctuary 147 Photo Pages 000 of Art 204 Plum Island 115 Blackstone Valley 218-19 441 Block Island 236-40, 238 Kenmore Square 49, Brownington 293 Mt Auburn Cemetery 55 blueberries 297, 391 52-3, 65, 72-3, 76 Brunswick 381-3 Sleepy Hollow boat travel 435, 436 medical services 83 budget 17 Cemetery 94 boat trips 12, 425-6 North End 44-5, 62-3, Bumpkin Island 44 Tyler Point Cemetery 219 67-8, 75, 81 Bar Harbor 395 Burlington 301-10, 302 West Cemetery 188 Boothbay Harbor 385 Seaport District 46, 48, bus travel 435, 436 central Massachusetts 31, 63, 68-9, 75, 82 175, 176, 177-80, 176 Boston 56-7, 59 business hours 431 INDEX shopping 80-3 Camden 389 Chappaquiddick 170 sights 36-56 Deerfield 191 Charlestown 234 South End 48, 63-4, C Chatham 141-4

Dennis 137  B-C 69-71, 75-6, 82, 50-1 cable cars 351 Gloucester 107 cheesemaking 281, 319 tourist offices 83-4 Cambridge 53-6, 65, 73-4,  Chester 251 Groton 256 76-7, tours 59-60 54 children, travel with 37, 429 Hyannis 133 Camden 389-91 travel seasons 34 children’s museums Kennebunkport 370 travel to/from 84-5 Camel’s Hump 316 Lake Champlain 304-5 Boston Children’s travel within 85-7 campfires 145 Museum 48 Lake Winnipesaukee walks 47, 47 Candlewood Lake 271 345 Children’s Museum & Waterfront 41-3, 62, 66-7, Cannon Mountain 351, Theatre of Maine 373 Lowell 98 74-5, 80-1 352, 28-9 Children’s Museum of Mystic 257 West End 44-5, 62-3, canoeing & kayaking New Hampshire 325 Nantucket 159 67-8, 75, 81 Bar Harbor 395 Providence Children’s Newburyport 115 Boston College 422 Bethel 402 Museum 214 Newport 228 Boston Common 36-7 Boston 56-7 Stepping Stones Norwalk 269 Boston Harbor 426 Brattleboro 279-80 Museum for Children 268-9 Ogunquit 368 Boston Harbor Islands Camden 390 Chilmark 172-3 Plymouth 121 43-4 Concord 96 churches Portland 375-6 Boston Light 43 Deerfield River 192 First Congregational Portsmouth 326 Boston Marathon 60 Essex River 113 Church 159 Rockland 388 Boston Massacre Site 42 North Conway 356 Squam Lake 342 Boston Public Library 49 King’s Chapel & Burying October Mountain State Ground 42 books 406, 426 Boston Tea Party 23, 36, Forest 199 Old First Church 284-5 history 408, 414, 415 42, 46, 61 Orleans 144 Old North Church 44-5 literature 20, 416-19 Boston University 421 Plum Island 115 Park Street Church 37 Boothbay Harbor 385-6 Bowdoin College 382 Portland 375 Seamen’s Bethel 123 Borden, Lizzie 117 bowling 58 Portsmouth 326 Trinity Church Brattleboro 278-82, 279 border crossings 434-5 Provincetown 153 (Boston) 49 Breakers 226 Boston 30, 34-87, 35 Rockport 110 Trinity Church (Newport) accommodations 34, Bretton Woods 360-2 Westport 268 222-3 61-5 breweries & cideries Canterbury (Connecticut) United First Parish activities 56-8 307, 378 254 Church 117 Back Bay 48-9, 64, 71-2, Allagash Brewing Canterbury Shaker Village cideries, see breweries & 76, 82-3, 50-1 Company 378 331 cideries Beacon Hill 36-41, 65-6, Downeast Cider House 58 Cape Ann 108 Cisco 164-5 74, 80, 38-9, 2 Geary’s 378 Cape Cod 30, 124, 125, Citgo Sign 53 Cambridge 53-6, 65, Harpoon Brewery 70 126-57, 125, 128-9 Cliff Walk 228 73-4, 76-7, 54 Hill Farmstead Brewery Cape Cod National climate 16, 21, 22, 23, see Charlestown 45-6, 63, 319 Seashore 150 also individual regions 68, 75 Magic Hat Brewery 303 Cape Cod Rail Trail 137 climbing 356 Chinatown 48, 63-4, Otter Creek Brewing 297 Cape Neddick 366-7 69-71, 75-6, 82 coffee milk 221 Rapscallion Brewery 179 car travel 431, 435, 436-7 climate 34 colleges, see universities & Rising Tide Brewing Castle in the Clouds 341 colleges Downtown 41-3, 62, 66-7, Company 378 Celebration of Lupine 353 Conanicut Island 231-2 74-5, 80-1, 38-9 Samuel Adams 70 cell phones 432 drinking & nightlife 74-7 Concord (Massachusetts) Shipyard Brewing Co 378 cemeteries 20 93-7, 94 emergency services 83 Switchback Brewing Copp’s Hill Burying Concord (New Hampshire) entertainment 77-80 Company 304 Ground 45 331-2 Fenway 49, 52-3, 65, Woodchuck Cidery 297 Edson Cemetery 98 Connecticut 31, 241-75, 72-3, 76, 50-1 Brewster 138-40 Granary Burying Ground 242-3 festivals & events 60-1 bridges 274, 295, 422 37, 40 Connecticut River Valley food 34, 65-74 Brimfield Antique Show 179 Hancock Cemetery 117 250-2, 251 highlights 35 Bristol 219-20 Hope Cemetery 316 Copley Square 13, 48, 13 history 36 Brooklyn 254 King’s Chapel & Burying Cornwall Bridge 274, 26-7 internet access 83 Brown University 212, 420 Ground 42 costs 17, 428, 430, 431 442 covered bridges 274, 295, E Fort Williams 373 Belknap Mountain 345 13, 26-7 Eartha 380 Foxwoods Casino 257 Block Island 237 Cranberry Isles 394 East Haddam 250-1 Franconia Notch State Park Boothbay Harbor 385 Crawford Notch 360-2 Eastham 145-7 351-2, 2 Bradbury Mountain State credit cards 431 economy 407, 415 Franconia Town 352-5 Park 380 cruises, see boat trips Edgartown 170-2 Freedom Trail 9, 47, 56, 47 Camden Hills State Park 389 INDEX INDEX cummings, ee 418 electricity 430 Freeport 379-80 currency 431 Cedar Tree Neck Elms, the 225 French, Daniel Chester 56 customs reguations 429 Sanctuary 172 emergencies 17 Frost, Robert 285, 353, cycling 424-5, 436 418, 419 Cotton Valley Trail 343-4 C- Emerson, Ralph Waldo  Acadia National Park 399 Dogtown 107 H 95, 416  Equinox Preserve 288 Ashuwillticook Rail Emerson College 423 Trail 204 G Grafton Notch State Essex (Connecticut) 252 galleries, see art galleries Boston 57, 59 Park 402 Essex (Massachusetts) gardens, see parks & Burlington 304 Hoosac Range Trail 206 112-13 gardens Cape Cod Rail Trail 137 Housatonic River Walk events 21-3 Gay Head Cliffs 13, 173-4, 13 Chatham 142 194 exchange rates 17 gay travelers 60, 155, 430 Concord 96 Kinsman Falls 352 Exeter 330 Geisel, Theodor Seuss 184 Falmouth 130 Lake Willoughby 320 Georges Island 43-4 Lamoille Valley Rail Lincoln Woods Trail 350 Trail 320 F Georgetown 383 Lonesome Lake Trail 352 Minuteman Commuter fall colors 9, 282, 355 Gilford 345 Long Point Wildlife Bikeway 92 Fall River 117 Gillette Castle 250 Refuge 172 Nantucket 159-60 Falmouth 129-31 GLBTI travelers 60, 155, 430 Long Trail of Vermont Nauset Bike Trail 146 Fantastic Umbrella Factory Gloucester 105-9 290 Newport 227 234 Gold Coast 267-70 Macedonia Brook State Norwottuck Rail Trail 186 farms 14 Gorey, Edward 135 Park 274 Portland Trails 374 Appleton Farms 112 Goshen 274 Monhegan Island 386-7 Providence 214 Atkins Farms Country Grafton 282-3 Monument Mountain 194 Province Lands Bike Trail Market 188 Grape Island 44 Moss Glen Falls 311 152-3 Billings Farm & Museum graveyards, see cemeteries Mt Greylock State Reservation 207 Stowe 312 292 Great Barrington 193-7 Mt Katahdin 404 Wellfleet 147 Champlain Orchards 297 Great North Woods 363 Mt Mansfield 311 West River Trail 279 Coogan Farm 256-7 Greenwich 269-70 Mt Pemigewasset Trail Hyland Orchard & Groton 256 Rapscallion Brewery 179 352 D Merck Forest & Farmland Mt Pisgah 320 dangers, see safety Center 287 H Nebraska Notch 311 Dartmouth College 337, Retreat Petting Farm 279 Halloween 23, 103 New England National 420-1 Robb Family Farm 279 Hampton Beach 330-1 Scenic Trail 193 Deer Isle 392 Shelburne Farms 302-3 Hancock Shaker Village Norwottuck Rail Trail 186 Deerfield 190-2 Sugarbush Farm 292 203 Pleasant Valley Dennis 136-8 University of Vermont Hanover 337-40, 338 Wilderness Sanctuary 200 Desert of Maine 380 Morgan Horse Farm 297 Hartford 244-50, 245 Dickinson, Emily 188 Watson Farm 232 Harvard Bridge 422 Quoddy Head State Park 400 Dinosaur State Park 247 Windy Hill Farm 194 Harvard University 53, Rangeley Lakes 403 disabilities, travelers with ferries, see boat travel 55, 421 safety 431 432-3 festivals 21-3 Harwich 140-1 Stowe 311, 312 distilleries 106-7, 149 films 406 Hawthorne, Nathaniel Tyringham Cobble 197 diving 305, 344 fishing 101, 416 Dog Mountain 318 Height of Land 403 West Rattlesnake Block Island 237 Mountain 342 Dogtown 107 Ellacoya State Park 345 hiking 424 Dorset 290-1 Acadia National Park Wolfe’s Neck Woods Gloucester 106 State Park 380 Dr Seuss 184 399, 25 Housatonic River 275 historic sites & buildings drive-ins 148 Appalachian Trail 207, 274, Flume Gorge 351, 19 288, 356, 402, 425 18-19 driving, see car travel food 19, 430, see also Abbott Hall 114 Du Bois, WEB 417 Bald Mountain & Artists individual locations Bluff Trail 352 Adams National Historic tours 372 Bartholomew’s Cobble Park 116-17 football 79 194-5 Amoskeag Millyard Fort Adams 227 Baxter State Park 403-4 Historic District 332 Map Pages 000 Fort Trumbull 254 Beartown State Forest Battle Green 91 Photo Pages 000 Fort Warren 43-4 195 Beauport 106 443 Bennington Battle Plymouth Rock 120 K Manchester (Vermont) Monument 285 Ralph Waldo Emerson Kancamagus Highway 286-90 Blackstone Block 43 Memorial House 95 349-51 mansions 12, 223, 225, Blithewold Mansion 219 Reeve House & Litchfield kayaking, see canoeing & 226-7, 228, see also Boston Massacre Site 42 Law School 272 kayaking individual mansions Brewster Store 139 Richard Sparrow House Keene 336-7 maple syrup 280 119 Marble House 226

Bullet Hole House 93 Kennebunks 370-2 INDEX Bunker Hill Monument Salem Maritime National Kennedy, John F 45, 131-2 Marblehead 114 Historic Site 100 46 Kennedy family 45 maritime museums Slater Mill 219 Calvin Coolidge State Kent 274 Cape Cod Maritime Springfield Armory Museum 133  H-M Historic Site 293 Kerouac, Jack 98, 418 Captain Bangs Hallett National Historic Site Chatham Marconi  Killington Mountain 295-7 House 135-6 181-2 Maritime Center 141-2 King, Stephen 419 Captains’ Mile 135 State House (Concord) Custom House 331 Kingdom Trails 319 Castle Hill on the Crane Maritime Museum Estate 113 Thoreau Farm 95 Kingscote 225 (New London) 254 Charlestown Navy USS Constitution 46 Custom House Yard 46 Wanton-Lyman-Hazard Maritime Museum House 222 L (Newburyport) 114 Chestnut Street 100-1 Laconia 345 Wayside 95 Essex Shipbuilding Cogswell’s Grant 113 Lake Champlain 302, 304-5 Wentworth Gardner Museum 112 Custom House 42-3 Lake Sunapee 332 House 325 Gloucester Maritime Dexter Grist Mill 126 Lake Waramaug 271-2 Wentworth-Coolidge Heritage Center 105 Dinosaur Footprints 185 Mansion 325 Lake Willoughby 282 Herreshoff Marine Faneuil Hall 42 Witch House 101 Lake Winnipesaukee 345 Museum 219 Flying Horses Carousel history 408-15 Lakes Region 340-6 Historic Ship Nautilus 168 Lakeville 275 & Submarine Force 20th century 415 Museum 256 Frost Place 353 Lamoille Valley Rail Trail 320 immigration 413-14 Maine Lighthouse Hancock-Clarke House leaf peeping 9, 282, 355 92 independence 410-12 Museum 388 Lee 199-200 Highfield Hall & Gardens industrial revolution Maine Maritime Museum legal matters 430 129 412-13 383-404 Lenox 200-3 Hildene 287 Native Americans 408 Museum of Yachting 223 lesbian travelers 60, 155, 430 House of the Seven Pilgrims 408-9 Mystic Seaport Museum Gables 101 Puritans 409-10 Leverett Peace Pagoda 190 256-9 Hoxie House 127 race relations 414-15 Lexington 91-2 Nantucket Whaling John F Kennedy National hitchhiking 435 lighthouse museums Museum 157-8 Historic Site 45 Holderness 341 260, 388 New Bedford Whaling John Paul Jones House holidays 431 lighthouses 15, 20, 15 Museum 123 325 horseback riding 300 Lime Rock Race Track 275 New Hampshire Boat Museum 343 Linden Place 219-20 Housatonic Valley 270-5 Litchfield 272-3 Longfellow House 56, Litchfield Hills 13, 271-5 Old Lighthouse Museum Huneck, Stephen 318 260 373-4 Hyannis 131-5 literature 20, 416-19, see Lowell National Historic also books Penobscot Marine Park 98 Little Brewster Island 43 Museum 391 Massachusetts State I Little Compton 220-1 USS Constitution Museum 46 House 37 ice skating 57-8, 214 lobster 11, 22, 369, 11 Moffatt-Ladd House 325 insurance 430, 437 WHOI Ocean Science Longfellow, Henry Exhibit Center 132 Mount, the 200 internet access 430 Wadsworth 97, 417 Whydah Pirate Museum internet resources, see Munroe Tavern 92 Loon Mountain 350 152 websites Nantucket Atheneum Lost River Gorge & Boulder markets 80-1, 82, 143, 148, Ipswich 112-13 158 Caves 347 260, 278-9, 309 Irving, John 419 Naumkeag 198 Lovells Island 44 Martha’s Vineyard 30, 124, Old Man of the Mountain Isle au Haut 392-3 Lowell 97-100, 418 125, 165-74, 173, 166 Memorial Plaza 351 itineraries 24-9 Lowell, Robert 418 Mashpee Wampanoag Old Manse 95 people 144 Old North Bridge 93 Massachusetts College of J M Old South Meeting Jackson 358-60 Art 423 House 42 MacDowell Colony 333 Jaffrey 335 Massachusetts Institute of Old State House Mad River Valley 299-301 Technology 57, 421 Jaffrey Center 335 (Boston) 41-2, 8-9 Maine 32, 364-404, 365, Mayflower 409 James, Henry 418 , Old State House 382 393 Mayflower II 118-19 Jamestown 231-2 Maine Lobster Festival 22 (Hartford) 247 Menemsha 172-3 Jaws 172 Orchard House 95 Manchester (New Merck Forest & Farmland Paul Revere House 45 Jordan Pond 399 Hampshire) 332-3 Center 287 444 Meredith 340-1 Bread & Puppet Museum Mariposa Museum 333 St Johnsbury Merrimack Valley 331-3 318 Mark Twain House & Athenaeum 318 Middlebury 297-9 Brewster Historical Museum 246 Strawbery Banke mobile phones 432 Society Museum 139 Martha’s Vineyard Museum 324-5 molasses flood 414 Bruce Museum 269 Museum 171 Sugar Hill Sampler 353 Monadnock Region 333-6 Buckman Tavern 91-2 Mashantucket Pequot Vermont History Canterbury Shaker Museum & Research Museum 317 INDEX INDEX money 17, 429-30, 431 Village 331 Center 257 Wadsworth Atheneum 245 Monhegan Island 386-7 Cape Ann Museum Mayflower Society Westport Historical Montgomery 295 105-6 Museum 120 Society 268

M-N Montpelier 316-18 Chatham Railroad McAuliffe-Shepard Whitehorne Museum 223  moose watching 347, 363 Museum 142 Discovery Center 331-2 Worcester Art Museum Moss Glen Falls 311 Chatham Shark Center Memorial Hall Museum 177  motorcycle travel 435, 436-7 141 191 Wright Museum 343 Moultonborough 341 Chesterwood 197-8 MIT Museum 57 Yale University Museums Mount Desert Island Clark House Museum Monte Cristo Cottage 264 254-5 393-401, 396 Complex 343 Mystic 256-9, 258 Mount Washington Cog Concord Museum 93-4 Museum of African Railway 360, 28 Connecticut Industrial American History 40 mountain biking 296, 319, Museum 274 Museum of Connecticut N 424, see also cycling Cottage Museum 168 History 246 Naismith, James 181 Mt Battie 389 Crane Museum of Museum of Newport Nantucket 30, 124, 125, Mt Equinox 288 Papermaking 203 History 223 157-65, 125, 158-9 Mt Greylock State Culinary Arts Museum Museum of Springfield Nantucket Town 157-64, 160 Reservation 207 213 History 181 Narragansett 232-4 Mt Katahdin 403 Cushing House Museum Museums of Old York national & state parks, see 367 Mt Mansfield 282 & Garden 114-15 also nature reserves DeCordova Museum 94 Nantucket Lightship Acadia National Park Mt Monadnock State Basket Museum 159 Park 335 Design Museum Boston 10, 399-400, 396, National Museum of , Mt Moosilauke 337 42 11 25 American Illustration Baxter State Park 403-4 Mt Snow 283 Edward Gorey House 135 225 Beartown State Forest Mt Washington Valley Edward Kennedy Institute New England Quilt 195 355-63 for the US Senate 45 Museum 98 Beavertail State Park 231 museums, see also art Emily Dickinson Museum Norman Rockwell Bradbury Mountain State galleries, children’s 188 Museum 197 Park 380 museums, maritime Enfield Shaker Museum Old Stone House Brenton Point State museums, science 338 Museum 293 museums, sports Park 227 Eric Carle Museum of Old Sturbridge Village museums Burton Island State Picture Book Art 188 178-9 Abbe Museum 394 Park 309 Falmouth Museums on Park-McCullough House Camden Hills State Amazing World of Dr the Green 129-30 Museum 285 Seuss 181 Park 389 Florence Griswold Peabody Essex Museum Cockaponset State American Independence Museum 252 100 Museum 330 Forest 246 Fruitlands Museums 93 Peabody Museum Colt State Park 219 Audrain Automobile Green Briar Nature of Archaeology & Museum 223 Center & Jam Kitchen Ethnology 56 Crawford Notch State Park 360 Bellamy-Ferriday House 126-7 Pilgrim Hall Museum 119 & Garden 272 Devil’s Hopyard State Hancock Shaker Village Pilgrim Monument & Park 246 Bennington Museum 203 Provincetown Museum 285 Harriet Beecher-Stowe 151 Dinosaur State Park 247 Berkshire Museum 203 Center 247 Plimoth Grist Mill 119 Echo Lake State Park 356 Berkshire Scenic Railway Historic Deerfield Village Plimoth Plantation 118 Ellacoya State Park 345 Museum 200 190-1 Prudence Crandall Fort Adams State Park Boothbay Railway Village Ipswich Museum 113 House Museum 254 227 385 Isabella Stewart Gardner Puffin Project Visitor Fort Trumbull State Boott Cotton Mills Museum 52-3 Center 388 Park 254 Museum 98 John F Kennedy Hyannis Robert Frost Stone Franconia Notch State Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum 131-2 House Museum 285 Park 351-2, 2 Museum 46, 48 John F Kennedy Library Sandwich Glass Grafton Notch State Brattleboro Museum & & Museum 45 Museum 126 Park 402 Art Center 279 Libby Museum 343 Seashore Trolley Green Mountain National Litchfield History Museum 370 Forest 290 Museum 272 Shelburne Museum 303 Haddam Meadows State Park 246 Map Pages 000 Lockwood-Mathews Shore Line Trolley Photo Pages 000 Mansion Museum 269 Museum 262 Hammonasset Beach State Park 253 445 Hampton Beach State Felix Neck Wildlife O Pioneer Valley 180-93 Park 330 Sanctuary 171 Oak Bluffs 167-70 Pittsfield 203-4 Housatonic Meadows Greenwich Point Park 269 Ochre Court 225 planetariums 56, 181, 262 State Park 275 Halibut Point Ogunquit 367-70 planning Hurd State Park 246 Reservation 109 Old King’s Highway 139 budgeting 17 Jamaica State Park Long Point Wildlife calendar of events 21-3 284, 309 Refuge 172 Old Lyme 252-3

internet resources 17 INDEX Kent Falls State Park Monomoy National O’Neill, Eugene 418 itineraries 24-9 274, 5 Wildlife Refuge 141 opening hours 431 Lincoln Woods State Ninigret Wildlife Refuge Orleans 144-5 New England basics 16-17

-Park 219 234 New England’s regions  N 30-2 Macedonia Brook State Norman Bird Sanctuary  S Park 274 227 P travel seasons 16, 21, Paper House 110 Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller Parker River National 22, 23 National Historical Wildlife Refuge 114 parks & gardens Plum Island 114-16 Park 292 Pleasant Valley Albacore Park 325 Plymouth 118-22, 120 Miller State Park 333 Wilderness Sanctuary Arnold Arboretum 43 Plymouth Notch 293 Minute Man National 200 Asticou Azalea Garden Plymouth Rock 120 Historic Park 91 Polly Hill Arboretum 172 400 Point Judith 232 Mount Sunapee State Rachel Carson National Back Bay Fens 53 politics 406, 415 Park 332 Wildlife Reserve 368 Boston Common 36-7 polo 227 Mount Tom State Park Stellwagen Bank Bushnell Park 247 Pomfret 254 272 National Marine Charles River population 406-7 Mt Greylock State Sanctuary 14, 106, Esplanade 49 151-2, Portland 372-9, 374-5 Reservation 207 14 Chinatown Park 48 VINS Nature Center 292 Portsmouth 324-30, 326 Mt Monadnock State Coastal Maine Botanical postal services 431 Park 335 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Gardens 385 Sanctuary 147 Providence 211-18, Myles Standish State Dr Seuss National 212 Forest 119 Wells National Estuarine Memorial Sculpture Provincetown 150-7, 152 Nickerson State Park 138 Research Reserve 368 Garden 181 Prudence Island 220 Ninigret State New Bedford 122-3 Elizabeth Park Rose public holidays 431 Conservation Area 234 New Britain 249 Gardens 246 puffins 388 October Mountain State New Canaan 270 Emerald Necklace 58 Puritans 409-10 Forest 199 New England Holocaust Fort Williams Park 373 Popham Beach State Memorial 42 Franklin Park 58 Park 383 New Hampshire 32, 322-63, Q Heritage Museums & quarries 316-17 Quoddy Head State 323 Gardens 126 Park 400 Quechee Village 291-5 New Hampshire Pumpkin Lighthouse Point Park Rocky Neck State Park Festival 336 262 Quiet Corner 254 246 New Haven 261-7, 262 Lyman Conservatory 185 Quincy 116-18 Sandy Point State New London 253-6 Mytoi 170 Reservation 115 New York City, travel to/ New Haven Green 261-2 R Seyon Lodge State from 84 Olmsted Park 58 rafting 192 Park 309 Newburyport 114-16 Prescott Park 325 Rangeley Lake 402-3 Sherwood Island State Newfane 283 Park 268 Prospect Terrace Park 214 Revere, Paul 45, 411, 413 Newport 12, 221-31, 222, Skinner State Park 193 Public Garden 48 Revolutionary War 410-12 224, 12, 19 Roger Williams Park Rhode Island 31, 208-40, Squantz Pond State Newport Folk Festival 213-14 209 Park 271 22, 228 Rose Kennedy Rhode Island School of Topsmead State Forest Noank 260 273 Greenway 42 Design 211, 423 Norfolk 275 Underhill State Park Waterplace Park 214 Ridgefield 270 North Adams 206-7 309 World’s End 117 Rockland 387-9 North Conway 355-8 Wolfe’s Neck Woods Patriots’ Day 21, 60, 91 Rockport (Maine) 389-91 North Woodstock 347-9 State Park 380 Peacham 293 Rockport (Massachusetts) Northampton 184-8 Native American culture & Peddocks Island 44 109-12 history 20, 118, 144, 173, Northeast Harbor 400 Pemaquid Point 386 Rockwell, Norman 197 257, 408 Northeast Kingdom 318-21 Penobscot Bay 12, 388, 12 Rosecliff 226 nature reserves, see also Northfield Falls 295 Peterborough 333-4 Roseland Cottage-­Bowen national & state parks Northfield Mountain Philip Johnson Glass House 254 Audubon Sharon Center Recreation & House 270 Rough Point 226-7 274 Environmental Center Barn Island Wildlife 191 Phippsburg 383 Management Area 260 Norwalk 268-9 phonecards 432 S Cedar Tree Neck Norwottuck Rail Trail 186 Pilgrims 118-20, 408-9 Sacrifice Rock 119 Sanctuary 172 Pinkham Notch 362-3 safety 431-2, 435, 437 446 sailing 227, 425, see also Manchester 288 Tiverton 220 Warren 337 boat trips Middlebury 298 toilets 432 Watch Hill 235-6 Salem 100-5, 102 Mohawk Mountain Ski tourist information 432 WaterFire 215 Sandwich 126-9 Area 275 Touro Synagogue National weather 16, 21, 22, 23, see Sankaty Head lighthouse Pinkham Notch 362 Historic Site 222 also individual regions 164, 15 Rangeley Lakes 403 tours, see boat trips, trolley websites 17, 67, 140, 426 scenic drives 18, 192, 399 tours INDEX INDEX Stowe 311-12 Weirs Beach 345-6 Schoodic Peninsula 398 Sugarbush 300 train travel 435, 437 Wellfleet 147-9 science museums Sugarloaf 403 train trips Wells 367-70 Beneski Museum of Sunday River 402 Boothbay Railway Village Wentworth Lake 343 S-Z  Natural History 188-9 Wilmington 283 385 West Cornwall 274-5 Cape Cod Museum of Wolfeboro 344 Essex 252 West Tisbury 172  Natural History 139 Woodstock 292 Lincoln 347 Westerly 234-5 Connecticut Science Mt Washington 360, 28 Center 246 Smith College 185 Weston 291 snow storms 432 North Conway 355 Westport 267-8 Discovery Museums 94 North Woodstock 347 EcoTarium 177 snowboarding 295, 320, 426 whale watching 14 Southwest Harbor 401 Winnipesaukee Scenic Bar Harbor 395 Extreme Mt Washington Railroad 345-6 Spectacle Island 43 Boothbay Harbor 385 360 travel to/from New Fairbanks Museum & sports museums England 434-5 Boston 58 Planetarium 319 American Museum of Fly travel within New England Gloucester 106 Harvard Museum of Fishing 287 436-7 Hyannis 133 Natural History 55 International Tennis Hall trekking, see hiking Kennebunks 370 of Fame 223 Mount Washington trolley tours 59, 121 Newburyport 115 Observatory Weather Naismith Memorial Provincetown 151-2, 153 Discovery Center 356 Basketball Hall of Truro 149-50 Fame 181 Twain, Mark 246 Quoddy Head State Museum of Science 55-6 Park 400 Vermont Ski & Tyringham 197 Peabody Museum of Stellwagen Bank Natural History 264 Snowboard Museum 311 National Marine Springfield Science Sanctuary 106, Museum 181 Springfield 180-4, 182 U universities & colleges 151-2, 14 Squam Lake 341-3 ’Sconset 164 10, 420-3, see also White Mountains 10, 347-55, seafood 11, see also lobster Squam Lakes Natural individual universities 348, 10 seals 142 Science Center 342 & colleges wildlife reserves, see Searsport 391 stargazing 136 Updike, John 419 national & state parks, senior travelers 429-30 state parks, see national & Upper Connecticut River nature reserves state parks Shakers 203, 331, 338 Valley 336-40 Williams College 423 Stellwagen Bank 14, 106, sharks 432 Williamstown 204-5 151-2, 14 Shelburne 302-3 Wilmington 283-4 Stockbridge 197-9 V Windsor 295 Shelburne Falls 192-3 vacations 431 Stonington (Connecticut) windsurfing 127, 132, 137, 167 shipbuilding 383 259-67 vegetarian travelers 66 shopping 18 wineries 149, 227, 254, 260, Stonington (Maine) 392 Vermont 31, 276-321, 277 262-3, 271, Siasconset 164 Stowe 310-16, 312, 9 Victoria Mansion 374 Winter Harbor 398 skating 57-8, 214 Stowe, Harriet Beecher 247 Vineyard Haven 165-7 Wiscasset 384-5 skiing 426 Sturbridge 178-80 visas 433 witch trials 101 Bennington 285 Sugar Hill 352 Wolfeboro 343-5 Bretton Woods 360-1 Sugarbush 299-301 Woodbury 271 Burke Mountain 319-20 surfing 146 W Walden Pond 96 Woods Hole 132 Canon Mountain 352 Surfside 164-5 walking, see also hiking Woodstock (Vermont) 291-5 Catamount Trail 291 swimming 425 Bar Harbor 395 Woodstock (Connecticut) Craftsbury Common 319 synagogues 222 Boston 47, 59-60, 254 Jackson 358 47 Cliff Walk 228 Worcester 177-8 Jay Peak 320 Nantucket 160 Killington Mountain 295-6 T Tanglewood Music Festival Napatree Point 235 Kingdom Trails 319 Y 15, 201, 15 Ogunquit 368 Lenox 200 Yale University 261, 420, 10 taxes 81 Portland Trails 374 Loon Mountain 350 Yarmouth 135-6 telephone services 432 White Memorial Mad River Glen 299-300 Yorks, the 366-7 Thompson Island 44 Conservation Center Thoreau, Henry David 95, 273 96, 426 Wallace, David Foster 419 Z Map Pages 000 time 432 Walpole 334 zoos 58, 214 Photo Pages 000 tipping 431 Wampanoag Homesite 118 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 447

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Gregor Clark Vermont, New Hampshire Gregor Clark has been exploring New England’s back roads since childhood, when he rode bikes through Cape Cod’s dunes, skated on frozen ponds in northwestern Connecticut and saw his first shooting star in Vermont’s Green Mountains. A lifelong polyglot with an insatiable curiosity for what lies around the next bend, Gregor has contributed to over three dozen Lonely Planet guides, with an emphasis on North America, Latin America and Europe. He lives with his wife and daughters in Middlebury, VT. Read more about Gregor at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregorclark Carolyn Bain Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard; Maine Australian-born Carolyn worked a glorious season on Nantucket a decade or so back – and like countless visitors before her, she fell in love with Cape Cod at first sight. Sand dunes and salt spray, history and wholesomeness, cozy inns and seafood feasts: this was (and still is) the USA at its most charming. On this trip, Maine made an awesome adjunct, and she relished the chance to go beyond lighthouses and lobsters to uncover craft brews, moose trails and road-tripping nirvana. Read more about Carolyn at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/carolynbain Mara Vorhees Boston, Around Boston, Central Massachusetts & the Berkshires Born and raised in St Clair Shores, Michigan, Mara traveled the world (if not the universe) before settling in the Hub. The pen-wielding traveler covers destinations as diverse as Belize and Russia, as well as her home in New England. She lives in a pink house in Somerville, MA, with her husband, two kiddies and two kitties. Mara also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections. Read more about Mara at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/mvorhees

Benedict Walker Rhode Island, Connecticut Born in Newcastle, Australia, Ben holds notions of the beach core to his idea of self, though he’s traveled hundreds of thousands of kilometers from the sandy shores of home. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide (Japan) when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much about where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Ben has also written and directed a play, and toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals. Read more about Benedict at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/benedictwalker

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