MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Filson taps Richard Chai Quiet Dignity as its new Jean Dujardin of “The Artist” fame lets his style do the creative director. talking and, for the most part, it’s a success. Page MW6 Page MW4

February 2, 2012

Nüco’s shearling vest, PHOTO BY ELI SCHMIDT Edun’s wool coat, Hyden URBAN PLIGHT Yoo’s cotton trenchcoat and VGB’s cotton shirt. Flud sunglasses; Origi- nal Penguin tie. Rocawear Revamps, Jay-Z Ready to Hit The Airwaves Cutbacks at men’s licensee as international markets, new categories boost biz.

by DAVID LIPKE

IT’S BEEN A ROCKY WINTER for Rocawear — but the biggest brand in the urban space is adjusting to the new realities of retail, said company executives in an exclusive in- terview with WWD. Last month, men’s licensee Roc Apparel Group LLC laid off 28 of its 56 employees at its Manhattan headquarters, according to a New York State Department of Labor filing, and published reports were quick to sound an impending death knell for the Iconix Brand Group Inc.-owned label. Rocawear founder Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter was said to be abandoning the brand. However, reports of Rocawear’s potential demise are off the mark, said company offi- cials, and the brand has a comeback strategy firmly in place. Later this month, Rocawear’s first-ever television campaign, featuring Jay-Z, which was filmed in November, will make its debut, belying rumors that he’s distanced himself from the brand. While the label’s men’s business is facing severe challenges as the urban market continues its long slide, particularly in the specialty store sector, Rocawear is growing other license catego- ries such as children’s wear and interna- tional markets. Of the reports that Jay-Z is alienated from the brand, Iconix president and chief executive officer Neil Cole noted: “This is the first time we have a television commer- cial starring Jay, so that’s obviously not true. I think you’ll see the opposite.” In fact, Jay-Z recently renewed his con- tract, which expired at the end of 2011, to endorse Rocawear for another three years, through 2014. Jay-Z owns a 51 percent stake in Roc Apparel, the men’s licensee, and is a share- holder in Iconix Brand Group as a result of the latter’s acquisition of Rocawear in 2007 for $204 million in cash. Iconix holds a 16 percent stake in Roc Apparel. “Of course, he’s a busy guy between his tour and his new baby and his music,” added Cole of Jay-Z. “Are there times when he’s not on tour and not in the studio where we get more time with him? Yes. And are there times when we have to work via e-mail and through other channels? Yes. But we are lucky enough to get a lot of his time and caring.” The men’s business is about 15 to 20 percent of total Rocawear sales. Both the children’s business, licensed to Li & Fung, and the international business, licensed to

{Continued on page MW6}

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 Men’s Week

Jonathan Adler Michael Bastian to Launch Suits, Shirts With Barneys byDAVID LIPKE Michael Michael Bastian designer collection, Bastian making it accessible to a broader au- MICHAEL BASTIAN is aiming for the dience — as does the lower pricing. corporate market. The collection will be distin- The New York-based Bastian will guished with a blue-on-white cot- expand beyond his designer collection ton piqué label, versus the red- and launch a range of classification on-white cotton piqué label of the suits, blazers, dress shirts and neck- designer collection. wear exclusively at Barneys New York “It seemed natural to me that in mid-February. The line is aimed for Michael Bastian should be outfit- the workplace and will be priced 20 ting his client in our stores 24/7 and percent less than Bastian’s designer the dress-up piece was all that was collection, which has been carried at missing,” said Tom Kalenderian, Barneys stores since 2007. general merchandise manager and “We’ve never attacked the classic executive vice president of men’s suit business and we think there’s a and Chelsea Passage at Barneys. great business opportunity there,” “Michael has always had a strong Jonathan Adler said Bastian, who also designs the base of tailoring in his sportswear Gant by Michael Bastian sportswear ensemble. It was time to allow the label for Sweden-based Gant. clothing to emerge with authority.” Inks Neckwear Suits in the Barneys offering will re- The new line will launch in tail for $1,495, blazers for $1,150, dress Barneys doors in New York, Beverly License With Randa shirts for $265 and ties and bow ties for Hills, Chicago, Boston and San $165. The tailored clothing is made in Francisco, in addition to barneys.com. HOME DESIGN GURU Jonathan Adler has Portugal from Italian wool, cotton or Kalenderian originally brought inked his first fashion license, a neckwear deal cotton-silk blends. Shirts are in Italian the idea to Bastian last summer as with Randa Accessories. cotton with mother-of-pearl buttons a business category ripe for exploit- The collection, which hits stores late this and a modified point collar, while the ing, as younger customers embraced summer, will include neckties in 3-inch and ties are in silk, cotton or linen. tailored clothing for both the work- 2-inch widths, bow ties, evening scarves and “I’ve been so happy with the re- place and off-duty occasions. pocket squares. Randa plans to produce about sults from the factories in Portugal “We’re seeing a whole new gen- 24 to 36 styles per collection, with each in four that I’m also moving my production eration of guys who are approaching to six colors. There will be six collections a for tailored pieces in the designer the suit in a more modern way — year, with core styles continuing for multiple collection there next season,” noted they’re treating it more as a fashion collections while seasonal designs inject nov- Bastian, who previously made the choice than as something they are elty into each delivery. pieces in Italy. while blazers have more of a fashion at- forced to wear,” explained Bastian. “But Randa will showcase the ties at the MRket Styles in the Barneys line this first sea- titude in plaids and three-button stances. it can’t be that anonymous baggy ‘going to show in Las Vegas later this month. Most of the son include solid navy, charcoal and pin- Both the suits and blazers are slightly work’ suit everyone remembers their fa- ties will retail for $75, with some prices going striped suits, all in two-button silhouettes, less fitted than the tailored pieces in the ther wearing.” up to $95. “My aesthetic is about taking chic and classy and adding a dash of eccentricity to it,” said Adler, who launched his brand in 1994. Filson Names Richard Chai Creative Director “It’s quirkster meets classic. It’s for everyone from Portland picklers to New York dandies.” by JEAN E. PALMIERI American label with very traditional and The final designs are still a work in prog- classic styling and our goal is to grow Richard Chai ress, said Adler, but will include geometric pat- FILSON IS STEPPING up its fashion quo- Filson’s share of closet.” terns, stripes, conversationals and medallions. tient for fall. He said the brand is carried in out- The latter are decorated with small icons The Seattle-based outdoors brand has doors retailers as well as more “main- that repeat, like an M.C. Escher motif, while snagged Richard Chai to serve as its cre- stream” stores such as Nordstrom and the conversationals will likely include favor- ative director, and the designer will show- Steven Alan. “Our customers were saying ite Adler icons like men’s brogues or pipes. case looks from his first capsule collection they would like to have more Filson so we Interior linings, or “tipping,” are in contrasting for the label during his runway show in were hoping to find someone who under- colors to the face of the tie. New York City on Feb. 9. stands the core value of the brand.” “We’re taking Jonathan’s unique aesthetic, “Richard is the ideal creative Enter Chai. his wonderful geometrics in particular, and partner not only because he shares “He approached us and asked if creating a fun, playful collection,” said David Filson’s values in craftsman- we would be interested,” Korros Katz, senior vice president and chief market- ship, high-quality fab- said. “We met and it was like ing officer at Randa Accessories. The company rications and classic, he’d read our book. He is targeting major retailers with the line, in- practical approach to was clearly smack dab in cluding Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, design, but because of the middle of the vision Nordstrom and Barneys New York. Adler’s his passion for our we had for growth.” own stores will also carry the collection. brand’s heritage,” A Filson His design aesthetic While this is Adler’s first license in the fash- said Mark Korros, field is “comfortable,” ion arena, the designer has dipped his toe into president and jacket. yet “approachable,” the apparel space previously, having designed chief executive of- Korros added, and a line of polos for Lacoste this past holiday sea- ficer of Filson. his reinterpreta- son. In 2010, he collaborated with Seven For All Chai’s first de- tions of classic prod- Mankind on a capsule line of jeans and sports- signs will be in ucts are true to the wear. In his interior design work, Adler has the Filson Rugged originals but with a decorated the houses of fashion designers like Casual Apparel modern twist. All of the Nanette Lepore and Liz Lange. line, which is products will be made Adler currently has 10 license partners, with being expanded in America. lighting, electronic accessories and stationery for fall. There “I’ve been a fan of and outfitter jackets. Accessories include being the largest categories. The company op- will be nine inter- Filson for years,” Chai said. three versions of the Filson Packer Hood erates 16 stores, including its first international pretations of classic Filson “I love the timelessness and in black stripe, beige wool and charcoal store in the U.K., which opened last year. Two styles such as the wool bomber, practicality in their design. Our wool; a large duffel bag in both black new stores will open in the second quarter of field jacket and duffel bag, offered in up- partnership will be rooted in everyday stripe and beige wool versions; a utility this year in Minneapolis and Dallas, with anoth- dated fabrications that complement his wear, approachable with unexpected fab- belt bag in black stripe, beige wool and er four to six doors slated for later in the year. fall men’s wear collection. rications and details that are signature to charcoal wool, and the Filson Rucksack in “I never really have a plan. I know when Korros said the association with Chai my collections, all while staying true to the beige wool and charcoal wool. Prices will something is intuitively right for me,” said will “enable Filson to appeal to our ex- heritage of the Filson brand.” be about 25 percent higher than the regu- Adler of strategy regarding entering new cat- isting customer base as well as a younger The capsule will feature six Filson lar Filson range and are “reflective of the egories. “Basically, when I want something for customer who is more fashion conscious. jackets constructed in Richard Chai fab- fabric, fit and finish.” myself, I make it. And I want some ties to wear.” It’s adding a real romance to the brand.” rics: the wool bomber in black stripe fab- Distribution will be targeted to better Randa Accessories has more than 125 li- Korros said Filson, which has a 115- ric, two versions of the field jacket in both department and specialty stores and the censes in neckwear and small leather goods. year history outfitting hunters, fisher- beige wool and charcoal wool with beige line will also be carried on Filson Direct. It’s stable of licensed brands including men, explorers and other outdoorsmen, and gray felt accents, the classic Filson The association is for several seasons Thomas Pink, Perry Ellis Portfolio, Pierre had been “looking for design expertise to Cruiser in waxed denim fabric and navy and is open-ended, Korros said. “We think Cardin, Ben Sherman, Chaps and Dockers. — D.L. help us elevate the brand. It’s an iconic suede jackets inspired by Filson’s wading it can really be long-term,” he said. THOMAS IANNACCONE POLARA STUDIOS INC.; BASTIAN BY STEVE EICHNER; FILSON BY CHAI AND ADLER PHOTOS BY BOSS Black HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 SHOP ONLINE HUGOBOSS.COM MW6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 Men’s Week PHOTO BY ARNOLD TURNER PHOTO BY

Han Feng and Andy Spade

Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter will front a new spring television campaign for Rocawear.

Stephane Rocawear Revamps as Jay-Z Takes to Air Cremieux and Looks from the collection. Martin Miller {Continued from page MW1} adjusted. There are layoffs up and down the street,”

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY various overseas partners, are equal to or larger said Cole, referring generally to Seventh Avenue. than men’s at this point, said Cole. “It’s been very tough in our industry, the apparel Rocawear is currently in 11 international mar- business. There are a lot of companies laying off kets, with Asia and Europe being the main targets for quietly and adjusting their businesses. BONJOUR CREMIEUX growth. Last month, Rocawear took a large-scale booth “Roc Apparel downsized a bit based on business at the Bread & Butter trade show in Berlin for the first trends, but they have an exciting story going for- STEPHANE CREMIEUX has at Dillard’s. “It should be good for time ever, accentuating its focus on overseas markets. ward,” added Cole. “We were over there last week, taken the plunge. our stores.” “We had a very prominent booth across from and they are in a good position to start growing their The son of French designer Cremieux called the addition Tommy Hilfiger and next to G-Star,” said Jameel business again.” Daniel Cremieux has relocated to of Cremieux 38 “a new avenue” for Spencer, chief marketing officer at Rocawear. Directed by Anthony Mandler, the new television New York City, opened a showroom the company, which was founded In the last two months, Iconix has signed three campaign is a key component of that plan. Rocawear on Mercer Street in SoHo and in 1976 in Saint-Tropez and now new licenses: swimwear with Longstreet, home prod- plans to air the commercial on MTV, BET and TNT is ready to start showcasing the has annual sales of about $150 mil- ucts with Kidsline and watches with American Time during NBA basketball games, among other outlets, in- company’s Cremieux 38 premium- lion worldwide with distribution Holdings. Rocawear now has 26 total license partners. cluding digitally on YouTube and rocawear.com. Titled priced label to American retailers. in France, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Still, Rocawear faces some steep challenges in “From Marcy to Madison Square,” the black-and-white “We’re not only celebrating the Asia and the Middle East. The maintaining its relevance in the volatile young men’s spots track Jay-Z’s rise from selling CDs out of the trunk opening of an office,” Cremieux Cremieux 38 line features “elevat- market, which were driven home by the layoffs at of a car in the Marcy Projects of Bedford-Stuyvesant, said, “but the launch of the line ed quality and details,” he said, but Roc Apparel. Total global sales for the Rocawear Brooklyn, to headlining concerts at Madison Square we produce in Europe to the the fit will remain the same. “We brand declined to about $500 million in 2011, down Garden. The spot uses footage from Jay-Z’s “Watch the United States,” he said during a don’t like extremes,” he said. “We from $700 million three years ago, according to Throne” concert at MSG in November. cocktail party at the Soho House want our customer to look good.” Iconix figures. “This is a really big deal, and fashion companies Tuesday night. Pieces include corduroy slacks “Key organizational changes have eliminated don’t usually use television. We are investing in the Cremieux’s Blue label, which in vivid colors such as red, sweat- unnecessary and underutilized roles as a part of an brand,” said Spencer. “We are looking to spend more showcases a European preppie ers with piping, slim neckwear, increased organizational efficiency exercise,” said money than we did in the past in marketing this brand.” sensibility, has been exclusive to jeans and woven shirts. “We’re Ronnie DeMichael, chief operating and financial of- A print campaign will complement the broadcast Dillard’s in the U.S. for the past 12 classic people,” he said. “We’re all ficer at Roc Apparel, of the restructuring last month. spots, and will drive traffic to the online versions years. The Little Rock, Ark.-based about nice fabrics and sartorial DeMichael said Roc Apparel’s sales decreased of the commercial. Pages will run in GQ, Details, retailer will add the Cremieux 38 styles — classics with a fun twist.” “slightly” in 2011 from 2010, due to continued de- Complex, Teen Vogue, Nylon, Vibe and XXL. A collection to the top 10 percent of Prices are about 2 1/2 percent clines in its specialty store business. The men’s digital buy includes advertising on sites like com- its stores, or around 26 units, for higher than the Blue Label with product is currently in 2,000 U.S. doors, with Macy’s plex.com, vibe.com, Highsnobiety.com, bet.com, fall, Cremieux said. jackets retailing at $495 to $600, and Dillard’s the two largest accounts. No major re- Allhiphop.com and Freshnessmag.com. “It’s been a great partnership,” shirts $125 to $175, sweaters $175 tailers were lost in 2011, said DeMichael. On the fashion front, the brand plans to play up its said Vicky Mason, the men’s mer- to $295 and pants $155 to $225. “It’s a very tough general environment with classic flame logo in its fall collections, after eliminat- chandise manager for Cremieux — JEAN E. PALMIERI what’s happened in the urban business, and they’ve ing it on most product in the past three years.

Man of Yigal Gets A look from THE WEEK JEAN DUJARDIN:B Yigal Azrouël. Relaxed We miss the moustache. It gave his George Valentin In contrast to the YIGAL AZROUEL’S COLLECTION character character. for fall veers to a casual and character he plays relaxed feeling, while retaining his signature aesthetic. in “The Artist,” the The formfitting shoulders make his head look too big (French stereotypes aside). The premise was that each Screen Actors Guild’s piece could be mixed and matched. His inspiration was choice for best actor The play on proportion between the photographers Misha de Ridder went for a youthful collar of the shirt and the tie is right, but and Marco Walker, whose they’re both too narrow for the width work captures landscapes and look with the slim of the lapel. Kudos, though, to the satin translates them into beautiful piping on the lapel edge. and modern images. So it was tuxedo and skinny no surprise that the collection’s long tie. Too bad the color palette sported an Good choice of color and silhouette — abundance of forest green, suit was too fitted however the button is pulling across his vibrant burgundy and MORE LOOKS AT and made us long for stomach. Try a 41 reg next time. dark blue. His signature WWD.com/ textured knits were present menswear-news. the old-world flair he but Fair Isle’s dominated. pulled off so well in Slender pants balance the blazer The outerwear pieces and elongate his frame. were key, ranging from racing the Academy Award- jackets to peacoats, focusing on military details, deconstructed, nominated film. The cap-toe lace-up is the perfect reversible functionality, choice to finish the outfit. removable linings, layered linings, quilted contrasting sleeves and leather trims on the PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY pockets, sleeves and collars. /DV=LNHZ3URMHFW-LIY\HY` IVV[O ^^^2310.7JVT MW8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 Men’s Week

VEGAS ARMY A sophisticated, chic military sensibility is the overriding trend for the upcoming fall Las Vegas shows. Luxe textured topcoats, black leather jackets, fitted pants and fur accents add the necessary punch to the uniform utilitarian staples. — Alex Badia

Todd Snyder’s wool parka, Shirt by Shirt’s cotton shirt and Cheap Monday’s cotton denim jeans. Calvin Klein tie.

DKNY Jeans’ wool sweater, Hyden Yoo’s wool blazer, Edun’s cotton shirt and Ambiguous’ cotton denim jeans. PHOTOS BY ELI SCHMIDT Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 MW9

Center: Vince’s nylon jacket, CPT by Cockpit’s leather and shearling vest, Todd Snyder’s cotton shirt and Doctrine Jeans’ cotton denim jeans. Calvin Klein tie.

Weatherproof 32 Edun’s wool blazer, Degrees’ nylon jacket. Ambiguous’ nylon jacket, Autumn Cashmere’s cashmere sweater, VGB’s cotton shirt and wool pants.

Amongst Friends’ wool Schott’s wool peacoat, Plectrum and leather jacket, Vince’s by Ben Sherman’s wool jacket, wool coat, Christopher Rocawear’s cotton shirt and Fischer’s wool sweater, Levi’s cotton denim jeans. French Connection’s cotton shirt and Todd Snyder’s wool pants. STANT: MERCEDES PSL BASS; FASHION INTERN: QUENTIN D. RUCKER PSL BASS; MERCEDES FASHION STANT: @ RED; GROOMING BY VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS AT FORD AT KOKKINIDIS VASSILIS @ RED; GROOMING BY ASSI USING DIOR HOMME; FASHION ARTISTS MODELS: JAMES C. @ WILHELMINA AND BRENT M. MW10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 Men’s Week

Plectrum by Ben Sherman’s wool jacket, DKNY Jeans’ nylon jacket, Victorinox’s wool sweater and Onia’s nylon shorts. Flud sunglasses.

Gant Rugger’s wool coat, Robert Graham’s cotton trenchcoat, Perry Ellis’ cotton shirt and Victorinox’s cotton pants. Calvin Klein tie; Todd Snyder boots.

CPT by Cockpit’s leather vest, Ben Sherman’s wool blazer, Rocawear’s cotton shirt and Seven For All Mankind’s cotton denim jeans.

Todd Snyder’s wool parka, Zoo York’s nylon quilted jacket and Victorinox’s cotton denim jeans. MEN’SFAIRCHILD FASHION WEAR MEDIA SUMMIT

MARCH 29, 2012 s NYC

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Sponsored by: MW12 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 Special Delivery A quintet of standout names at Project Las Vegas, running from Feb. 13 to 15. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie

ally premium but is sophisticated wardrobe classics.” WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE and with a subtle brand image,” The collection includes a harbormaster-inspired mackin- While most camouflage is meant to blend in, the said Sargent. For fall, the denim tosh jacket, a Modish duffle-parka hybrid, washed-moleskin fall capsule collection from Want Les Essentiels offering includes 2x1 Japanese trousers and shirts in chambray, multicolored gingham and de la Vie stands out. The Montreal-based lux- selvage denim, which is a tighter vintage stripes. ury accessories brand has used the military weave than usual and produces a Shirts will retail for $170 to $270, knits are $150 to $440, motif on five designs as part of the Project dressier, more sophisticated look. polos are $115 to $175, trousers are $195 to $345, light jackets Wooster installation overseen by Project’s The partners also aim to differen- are $290 to $590, blazers are $440 to $690, outerwear is $390 creative adviser, Nick Wooster. Unlike last tiate their jeans with high-end de- to $790 and accessories are $100 to $250. season, retailers will be able to order from the tails like back leather patches from “The U.S. is to be a firm focus, and we intend to fully de- specially curated lineup of high-end brands Japan and hardware from Italy. velop it as a market, in partnership with the best stores,” spotlighted in Project Wooster. The fall line is available in two said Fergus Patterson, chief executive officer of Wolsey. “I think for Nick the whole idea of camo is fits, slim and straight, in a range of — D.L. Simon something that transcends trends and is never dark rinses and vintage washes. Miller in or out of fashion,” said Dexter Peart, who The jeans retail from $230 to $365 co-founded Want Les Essentiels de la Vie with This spring, the line is in a handful of ac- MARC MOTO his brother, Byron Peart, and business partner counts, including Barneys New York, Ron G-III Apparel Group Ltd. is giving the Marc Moto brand a Mark Wiltzer. The trio also operate the Want Agency multi- Herman and Steven Alan, and the company is set to expand second chance at life, following an aborted launch effort in brand showrooms in Montreal and New York. to additional specialty stores in the fall. 2010. For fall, Marc Moto, which is a lower-priced denim and The camo line includes a weekend bag, sport bag, shop- Sargent and Corrigan are introducing knitwear to the sportswear spin-off of the Andrew Marc brand, will offer a per tote, dopp kit and iPad case, all made from water-resis- brand, including alpaca-linen pullovers, wool-cashmere rock ’n’ roll-inflected take on casual classics and workwear. tant, heavy-duty nylon adorned with the patented MultiCam shawl-neck Henleys and double-knit cardigans, which Marc Moto — which bears the moniker “The pattern from Crye Precision. Calfskin trim in green moss will retail between $330 and $895. Rebel Division of Andrew Marc” — encom- adds a luxe touch to the designs. “A lot of denim brands go into T-shirts passes denim, nondenim bottoms, “We were inspired by the U.S. Army and the technical and wovens, so we thought it was graphic T-shirts, knitwear and shirts function and purpose of use of camo. The MultiCam was a more unusual to go into knitwear,” with a vintage vibe, and leather perfect choice, not only for its authenticity — it is widely re- said Sargent. jackets. A twill vest with waxed- garded as the most advanced camouflage — but also for the — D.L. cotton shoulder patches is $98; an un- complexity of pattern design, which creates a blending effect constructed cotton pin-striped blazer that disguises the wearer,” said Peart. is $138; a hand-sanded vintage motor- Prices range from $295 for the iPad case to $695 for the BELL SPORTS cycle jacket is $398, and a red leather jacket sport bag. Cyclists — both those who opt for motors and in dyed lambskin is $450. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie is sold in about 25 accounts those who use their legs for power — have been The original launch in 2010 for Marc Moto in the U.S., including Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York wearing Bell helmets for over half a century. was under a license with the jeanswear divi- and Opening Ceremony, in addition to overseas doors like And although the brand has dabbled in appar- sion of The Jones Group Inc., but the plug was Colette, Dover Street Market, Liberty, Selfridges and Lane el over the years — most of it technical gear to Bell pulled on the project before any product ever Crawford. wear while riding — it is now taking the plunge Sports hit retail. An entire collection was created in — DAVID LIPKE by launching a collection of T-shirts sporting vin- that first effort, targeted at stores like Macy’s, tage images from the company’s past. Dillard’s, Bon-Ton and Belk. The Jones Group Founded in 1954 by Roy Richter, Bell has last year tried to exit its denim business, ne- Wolsey been focused on hard goods throughout most of gotiating to sell the division to Delta Galil its history, said Don Palermini, director of marketing. “But Industries Ltd., but talks broke down last month. we did some soul-searching and saw a bigger opportunity. With this revived initiative, G-III is producing Marc Moto So many companies are mining the heritage vein, making in-house and targeting higher-end stores like Nordstrom, up names that have no connection to the sport. Our archives Bloomingdale’s and Lord & Taylor. The core Andrew Marc contain a treasure trove of marks, icons and graphics that brand is currently in over 300 stores in the U.S. reflect the culture of racing, performance and competition — D.L. which Bell helped enable. We thought it was time to offer something authentic.” Palermini said the company is taking a “metered ap- Marc Moto proach” to the apparel range, and will offer a limited assort- ment of “cultural Ts” with images that the company found and “dusted off.” For example, T-shirt styles will include a “Since 54” logo, celebrating the year of its founding, as well as “Bell #1,” a graphic inspired by daredevil Evel Knievel. There will also be a “Bell Original” offering. They will retail for $25 to $35, and the distribution will be targeted to small to midsize bou- tiques and a few motorcycle and bicycle shops that also sell lifestyle product, he said. “We see it as a modest business and will evaluate as we go,” Palermini said. “We believe there’s a larger soft goods dimen- sion, but this is our initial foray and we’ll see what happens. We’ll look at the business through a Bell lens. We don’t want to get into an arms race with another giant sports company.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI WOLSEY First established in 1755 and named after Cardinal Wolsey, the Wolsey brand has been worn by British soldiers during both World Wars, by British Olympians and even by members of the Royal Family. The company was awarded a royal war- rant in 1959 by the late Queen Mother. Today, Wolsey is owned by the Hargreaves family, who bought it in 2010 and have turned it into a premium maker of modern men’s wear classics with British heritage appeal. The fall line is the first designed under the supervision of SIMON MILLER new creative director Richard Bengtsson and the first time Simon Miller has a new duo running the denim maker, fol- the brand is targeting the U.S. market. “The Wolsey range lowing the exit of the company’s namesake founder in August. really has outdoor utility at its heart. We’ve utilized detailing The brand is now in the twentysomething hands of Daniel from hunting and fishing garments, and fabrics are varied to Corrigan and Jake Sargent, with the former a key employee offer interesting textures,” said Bengtsson. For Wolsey 1755, of Miller’s and the latter previously the manager for product a higher-end line, “we’ve been inspired by cultural icons of development and retail development at Monocle magazine. the Sixties and Seventies, particularly the film stars, incor- “We feel there’s a need for a men’s denim line that is re- porating their individual style when designing men’s wear Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2012 MW13 MAGIC Moments New and noteworthy additions to the Las Vegas show running Feb. 13 to 15. — Jean E. Palmieri STAPLE DESIGN “You either like it or loathe it, but it starts a conversation,” he said with a chuck- Guns Germs $teal Jeff Staple is getting ready to spread his wings. le. He said he chose the bird to be the face Although the founder and creative direc- of the brand because it’s “an urban survivor, tor of Staple Design has been in the business and that’s the soul of the brand. And a kid since 1997 and operates both an influential from the city can relate more to that than to creative agency as well as the Reed Space a polo horse.” retail stores in New York City and Tokyo, Staple Design is heavily influenced by he’s decided to turn his full attention to his street culture and music and offers a full streetwear brand. lifestyle collection for men. “Our DNA is “We’ve had a collection every season, but street and hip-hop,” Staple said. The cus- we’ve kept it very niche and boutique-based tomer is a young guy who is comfortable as we honed our craft,” Staple said. “It was wearing a T-shirt with jeans and penny just one of our buckets of operation.” He said loafers while carrying a skateboard. The the line, which has been premium priced fall collection will speak to the eclectic na- and sold at such retail stores as Colette in ture of that man, Staple said, with an offer- Paris, Beams in Tokyo and Fred Segal in the ing that ranges from graphic T-shirts and U.S., is undergoing a transformation for fall. caps to outerwear. Blazers, with the com- pany’s customized camouflage lining, will retail for $110, and the company’s Heritage Staple Design collection, which will feature “old Champi- on-style sweatshirts and hoodies” with the pigeon on them, will sell for $60. GUNS GERMS $TEAL The brains behind the new streetwear a company he named Navali, a derivation of be reminiscent of a vintage sailing vessel. Top- brand Guns Germs $teal are not your typi- the Latin word navalis, meaning “pertaining selling styles include messenger bags, retail- cal urbanwear executives. First, they’re to ship.” The bags, which will be shown in ing for around $175; rucksacks for $205; com- six-feet tall. Second, they’re former models. the Menswear pavilion at the MAGIC show puter bags for $215, and a weekender for $245. Third, they’re girls. for the first time this month, are designed to Navali also offers canvas wallets trimmed “Streetwear is our market and what we be durable and functional with a look that is in leather and lined in cotton for $45 to $65. naturally fell into,” said Philippa Price, timeless — “a bag line meant for living life,” For fall, the brand will be expanding into who founded the label with her best friend, according to the company. two additional colorways for its bags — olive Smiley Stevens, last year. “But in the fash- The core collection features washed can- and navy — and will also introduce an all- ion world, that is entirely male dominated. vas bags with distressed leather trim accented leather collection, which will retail for about At S.L.A.T.E. [the streetwear-themed part of by antique brass findings that are designed to $100 more. the MAGIC show], we heard we’re going to be the only girls there. It’s kind of scary but exciting, too.” The same could be true of their Los Angeles-based label, which actually had its start during their college years in New York. “Smiley was at NYU and I was at Parsons,” said Price. “We instantly bonded and be- came best friends. We’re both tall girls with wacky senses of humor. We found our cre- Add value to your garments, and your business ative soulmates.” During college, the two started making brass wallets in the shape of cigarette cases Retailers at the Parsons metal studio. For fun, they branded the wallets with rap quotes about Generate new revenue from money. It didn’t take long for the word to get Supercrease®. Promote the add-on “We used to be in a little 10-by-10 booth out and the orders to come in. service in your store, and apply a at Capsule,” he said, “but in the past year, “We got a lot of blog attention,” said we decided to take the time to invest in the Stevens, “and it evolved into a whole cloth- permanent crease to pressed garments clothing line. Fashion is the one thing that ing brand.” with our easy-to-use technology can live beyond me. With the creative agen- At MAGIC, they will introduce their first cy, once I pass, it’s gone, so we’re putting all cut-and-sewn men’s collection for fall, one Manufacturers our chips into the clothing line to make it that “exudes the California lifestyle of East Enhance garments for your customer more robust.” Los Angeles with a high-fashion twist.” Key ® To properly showcase the brand, Staple pieces include varsity jackets with authentic with Supercrease . Maintain a fresh has created a 600-square-foot, custom- Mexican blanket accents that will retail for pressed appearance as the designer designed booth at the S.L.A.T.E. section of $200, and an all-over sublimation print crew- intended from factory to shop floor MAGIC. At the same time, he has switched neck sweater depicting photos of low-rider manufacturers and brought the retail prices cars, priced to sell at $160. The photos used down to a more reasonable level. “We had on the sweaters were taken by infamous Los Offices and Agents in: made everything in Japan and the prices Angeles gang photographer Robert Yager, London New York Tokyo Seoul Los Angeles Denver were so high, we could only serve around 1 whose images the girls will put on a line of Montreal Brussels Jakarta Abu Dhabi Guangzhou Toronto percent of the population,” he said. “We’re T-shirts that will come out this summer. Also Ho Chi Minh City Dhaka Mexico City Bogota Bangkok trying to cater to a new market.” on tap: a capsule collection for Los Angeles- Vientiane Phnom Penh Delhi Hong Kong Leeds Port Said Staple Design is still manufactured in based skatewear label DTA Rogue Status. Vilnius Cluj-Napoca Durban Valletta Madrid Colombo Asia and the aesthetic remains the same — “This is us,” said Stevens. “It’s our aes- Sharjah Hanoi Vigo Izmir as does the brand’s logo, the pigeon. thetic. It might seem scary, but it’s not. You 33 years of service to the garment industry can be gangsters without being in a gang. We love when people have seen Please contact Daniel Houlbrook, EVP our Web site and then see us.” [email protected] +1.888.723.1214 (Toll Free) NAVALI +1.323.656.2994 (USA Local) www.supercrease.com Rob Rothman may have been born and raised in the concrete canyons of New York City, but he’s always been drawn to nature. He moved to rural Vermont after college to indulge his passion for running, skiing and kayaking, and traveled Navali to Europe, Asia and Latin America to experience the beauty and his- See a demonstration at Booth 66934 tory of those far-flung lands. One year ago, Rothman trans- Sourcing/South Hall, 2nd Level LVCC lated his passion for adventure into MW1MW14 WWD XXXXXXXXXX,THURSDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 2, 2012 XX, 2012 Men’s Week

In a season where designers are redefining the aesthetic of male Canali power and dressing for success, here are some of the key trends

from the recent Milan and Paris Ports 1961 runway shows. — Alex Badia Euro Stars Z Zegna

Jil Sander

RETURN OF THE POWER SUIT

Yves Saint Laurent Emporio Armani

BLACK LEATHER Men’s Week WWD XXXXXXXXXX,WWD THURSDAY, XXXXXXXX FEBRUARY XX, 2, 2012 MW15MW2

Maison Lanvin Martin Pringle of Rick Gucci Giorgio Margiela Scotland Owens Armani

TURTLENECK SWEATERS FUR MANIA

Dries Burberry Viktor Van Dolce & Prorsum Etro & Rolf Versace Noten Gabbana

QUILTED EFFECTS LONG TOPCOATS

Salvatore Yohji Mihara John Dior Mugler Ferragamo Yamamoto Yasuhiro Galliano Homme

BURGUNDY SHADES MILITARY INFLUENCES PROJECT LAS VEGAS | TOWN SQUARE | BOOTH 22114

NEW YORK | BOSTON | LOS ANGELES | TORONTO | TOKYO | HONG KONG | LONDON | GENEVA | DÜSSELDORF | VICTORINOX.COM