Chapter 32 The Cardinal’s Wardrobe
Carol M. Richardson
By the end of the 17th century, the papal master of ceremonies, Francesco Sestini da Bibbiena, could report that cardinals’ dress consisted of the sou- tane (a long, sleeved cassock, buttoned down the front), rochet (a linen over- garment or surplice), manteletta (short shoulder cape worn only in Rome), mozzetta (short cape usually buttoned in front) and cappa magna (voluminous cloak with a hood). The hat was always red, whereas the cassock and cloak could be in one of three qualities of the colour: pavonazzo (peacock-coloured), rosso (red) or rose secche (old rose), depending on the occasion.1 Although red is the colour worn by cardinals, it is not the cardinals’ colour but the popes’. The colour is significant precisely because it binds the pope and his cardinals, as head and members of the papal body: “in capite et in mem- bris” (see also Barbara Bombi’s chapter in this volume).2 William Durandus explained in his Rationale of 1286:
the Sovereign Pontiff always appears dressed with a red cape on the out- side while underneath it he is dressed with white vestments; for within, he ought to shine through innocence and charity; and on the outside, he ought to be red through compassion, so that he might show himself to be always ready to lay down his life for his sheep; for he stands in the place of Him who made red His garments for all the sheep in the world.3
Papal garb seems to have been established relatively early on, though its first formal record is in the late 13th-century ordo, or ceremonial book, of Gregory x.4 How the cardinals’ costume evolved was a long, often contentious process, that
1 Francesco Sestini, Il moderno maestro di camera (Rome: 1697), 9–10. 2 Marc Dykmans, Le cérémonial papal: De la fin du Moyen Âge à la Renaissance, vol. 2: De Rome en Avignon ou le Cérémonial de Jacques Stefaneschi (Brussels: 1981), 472. 3 Guillaume Durand, William Durand on the Clergy and their Vestments: A New Translation of Books 2 and 3 of The Rationale Divinorum Officiorum, trans. and ed. Timothy Thibodeau (Scranton: 2010), 236; idem, Rationale divinorum officiorum (Venice: 1568), § 1286, 3:19.18. See also Agostino Paravicini Bagliani, The Pope’s Body, trans. David S. Peterson (Chicago: 2000), 89. 4 Paravicini Bagliani, The Pope’s Body, 83–85.
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1 Cloaks and Hats
In his treatise De cardinalatu (1510), Paolo Cortesi discusses cardinals’ dress in the chapter on their authority (potestate). They have a uniform because they are individuals fulfilling a role that derives from their “collective authority.” That status is also signified by the colour and physical presence of their weighty cloaks:
5 Bernard Berthod, “From Papal Red to Cardinal Purple: Evolution and Change of Robes at the Papal Court from Innocent iii to Leo x 1216–1521,” in Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture, ed. Stewart Gordon (New York: 2001), 315–31. 6 Martino Garati, De cardinalibus (1453), in Per la storia del Cardinalato nel secolo xv, ed. Gigli- ola Soldi Rondinini (Milan: 1973), 85: question 98. Johann Baptist Sägmüller, Die Thätigkeit und Stellung der Cardinäle bis Papst Bonifaz viii. historisch-canonistisch untersucht und dar gestellt (Freiburg i.Br.: 1896), 165. 7 Carol M. Richardson, Reclaiming Rome: Cardinals in the Fifteenth Century (Leiden: 2009), 98–100.