Romantic Trends Interview with a Whale the Rise of Football In

Issu e 38 • 2018

Romantic Trends Interview with a Whale The Rise of Football in Iceland Culture and Nature in the Westfjords ICELANDIC TIMES ISSUETIMES 38 ICELANDIC - 2018WWW.ICELANDICTIMES.COM PROBABLY THE WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is 3 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

hen I talk with some people who are From being classed as Europe’s Today you will find Wvisiting Iceland for the first time, I poorest country at the beginning of amazing success encounter a sense of disbelief. How is it the 20th century to a modern, thriving stories permeating possible that this tiny country can have so society today has not been an easy every aspect of much to see and so many activities to enjoy? journey but it has given its people a society, stories that How can a population that would be classed driving determination to make the most you can witness as as a village in other countries accomplish so of what they have. Led by the fearless you meet its people. much and how do they find the time? son of a pastor in one of the most From from art to music, farming to fashion, Iceland is a country where the fight for remote areas, who laid the foundation football to horse riding, whale watching to survival has developed a breed of pioneers for Iceland’s independence by force of glacier Super-jeep tours, to knife-making to and entrepreneurs, willing to try—and argument, knowledge of the law, oratory restaurants, you will find Icelanders with a keep trying—new things. When volcanic and persistence—rather than the force passion and love for their craft and a desire eruptions decimated the population in the of arms favoured by other revolutionary to share it with others. past, the survivors banded together and movements at the turn of the 20th Welcome to Iceland! fought to rebuild, using whatever they had century, the country has moved into a Einar Th. Thorsteinsson left to get back on their feet. new era of development. Managing Editor and Publisher Contents REYKJAVÍK AREA REYKJANES PENINSULA EAST ICELAND Sea in Summer, Land in Winter...... 10 Whale Watching Reykjanes...... 52 The East Iceland Heritage Museum...... 96 Reykjavík City Museum...... 12 As Fresh as it Gets...... 54 Petra’s Stone & Mineral Collection...... 97 The Rise of Football in Iceland...... 14 The Town of Grindavík...... 55 Wilderness Center of Iceland...... 98 A Sweet Explosion in Iceland...... 16 geoSilica Local Supplement Promotes Health...... 56 Northern Lights Exhibition in the Eastfjords...... 100 Urta Islandica's Gourmet Local Products...... 17 The Place to Stay in Grindavík...... 57 Interview with a Whale...... 18 Grindavík’s Harbour Café...... 57 SOUTH ICELAND 64° Reykjavik Distillery Quality Crafted Spirits...... 20 Keflavik International Airport is Growing...... 58 Vestrahorn: A Beautiful Slice of Iceland...... 104 The Icelandic Phallological Museum...... 22 Keflavik Duty Free...... 60 Scenic Food Tours with Eat in Iceland...... 106 The Fine Art of Knifemaking...... 24 Best in Birdwatching...... 64 Dine in the Langoustine Capital...... 107 The Joyful Wonderland...... 25 On Top of the World - Glacier Jeeps...... 108 WEST ICELAND Leather Designer...... 25 Digging Deeper into Iceland...... 110 Krauma Geothermal Baths...... 68 Celebrating 50 years of service in tourism...... 26 Vikings and Settlement...... 112 Where the Lambs Go Wild...... 70 The World’s Most Exclusive Watchmaker...... 28 A Delightful Experience in Stokkseyri...... 116 Stóri Kambur Horse Rental...... 72 Live with the Vikings...... 29 Discover an Ice-Blue World...... 117 Sjávarpakkhúsið Restaurant & Bar...... 73 Journey to the Inside of a Glacier...... 30 FREIRAUM-Fotografie...... 118 Eiríksstaðir Museum...... 75 Your Safety on Icelandic Roads...... 31 Dining out at Icelandair’s Hotel Klaustur...... 120 Chocolate Designed and Made in Iceland...... 32 WESTFJORDS ICELAND The House that Disappeared...... 122 Catch the Northern Lights All Year Around...... 34 Hrafnseyri, the Birthplace of Jón Sigurðsson...... 78 Going Above and Beyond around the Golden Circle.... 123 Your Safety on Icelandic Roads...... 36 Iceland’s First Settler...... 80 The Enchanted Island...... 124 We Specialise In Your Adventure...... 38 Enjoy the Culture of the Westfjords...... 82 A Little Bit of Icelandic Paradise...... 125 The All-Icelandic Wool Shop...... 40 Culture and Nature in the Westfjords...... 83 A Taste of Iceland's Wild & Sweet...... 126 Réttir - The Yearly Sheep Round-up!...... 41 Refreshing Vík...... 127 NORTH ICELAND A Taste of Vietnam in Reykjavík...... 44 Harmonious Hjarðarból Guesthouse...... 128 Explore the North...... 86 The Renaissance of Traditional Foods in Iceland...... 46 Stracta Hotel Hella...... 129 Acco Akureyri...... 87 Romantic Trends...... 48 About the Icelandic Times...... 130 It's a Bird's Life...... 88 Akureyri - Heart of the North...... 90 Birdwatching in Paradise...... 92 Credits Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes PUBLISHER GRAPHIC DESIGN Jacqueline Sanz Icelandic is one of the European root ACCOUNT MANAGERS Andrew Scott Fortune Kolbrún Kristín Ólafsdóttir languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ [email protected] WRITERS Andrew Scott Fortune Sandra Guðrún or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in E. Marie Valgarðsson ICELANDIC TIMES Guðmundsdóttir foreign words. However, it still contains [email protected] Edda Snorradóttir Dagmar Trodler MANAGING EDITOR & WEBSITE Delphine Briois some letters not found in most other GENERAL MANAGER Hari Aravind Hallur Hallsson Einar Th. Thorsteinsson languages. This basic list provides a PHOTOGRAPHY Jenna Gotlieb [email protected] Björn Rúriksson Magnús Þór Hafsteinsson general idea of their sounds, using ENGLISH EDITOR Brynjar Ágústsson Jón R. Hjálmarsson Andrew Scott Fortune Friðþjófur Helgason Kamma Thordarson familiar words rather than phonetics. PROJECT MANAGER Kristján Ingi Einarsson Karin Fjall Murray-Bergquist Þorsteinn Þorsteinsson Peter Fischer Katrín Baldursdóttir Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Character Pronunciation TECHNOLOGY Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone FRONT COVER PHOTO Sandra Guðrún Steingrímur Jón Guðjónsson Photo from á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ or iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications Guðmundsdóttir can be downloaded free for all makes of smartphones [email protected] Vatnajökull Simon Falkner æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ SALES & MARKETING Svava Jónsdóttir ð Like ‘th’ in ‘with’ Photo by Viðar Ingason Vignir Andri Guðmundsson þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ [email protected] Stanley Allan Viðar Ingason Icelandic Times Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the +354 578 5800 contents of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness thereof. [email protected] Copyright © March 2018 Icelandic Times All rights reserved Printed in Sweden by V-TAP www.icelandictimes.com

4 www.icelandictimes.com 5 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Seven destinations with year- round possibilities, air charter services and day tours to Iceland’s most beautiful places

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Westman Islands Glacier Lagoon Day Tours Húsavík, Mývatn & Dettifoss One of the wonders of nature, Day tours to the famous Glacier lagoon and Sightseeing tour exploring the natural Húsavík surrounded by mountains, Gjögur Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier. wonders of North East Iceland. islands, volcanoes and seabirds. Sauðárkrókur Bíldudalur Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak. North Iceland Visit Húsavík or Sauðárkrókur, and witness the natural Höfn wonders of North Iceland. Reykjavík The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s Day Tour to the Westman Islands Ice & Fire – Glaciers & Volcanoes most isolated regions, rich Vestmannaeyjar This tour takes you to the volcano island of A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply in natural wonders. Heimaey in the Westman Islands archipelago. contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features.

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6 www.icelandictimes.com Seven destinations with year- round possibilities, air charter services and day tours to Iceland’s most beautiful places

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7 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 REYKJAVÍK

8 www.icelandictimes.com 9 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 Sea in Summer, Land in

WinterThe family company that produces unique fishing tours from Reykjavík on a traditional Icelandic fishing boat

f you’re feeling curious about a fisherman’s life, you may want to consider a tour with Happy Tours. IThey have taken a 40-foot long traditional fishing boat named Saga and turned it into a sight-seeing boat. It was built from oak in Iceland in 1970 and has all the latest safety equipment. Their captain has been sailing for forty years and taking passengers on board since 2009. This original take of using a fisherman’s boat for tours makes them a unique company. Happy Tours is a small, Icelandic, family run company that aims to provide fun, curious and educating experiences for its guests. Their tours leave from the Old Harbour in Reykjavik.

Catch, cook, eat and enjoy They offer sea angling tours, where your catch may include cod, pollack or haddock, tours also include Puffin Watching on maximum number on each tour of 11 people, fish that you later cook and enjoy in puffin season in May - August. The puffin which provides a personal service for each the traditional way, with potatoes and is well-known and very popular in Iceland. guest. Last year the Happy Tour boat tour homemade sauce. Here you will be both The sea angling and puffin watching tour was “Top rated Boat tour from Reykjavik” fishing and cooking with the locals since leaves twice a day at 9:00 and 13:00 from on Trip Advisor. By the end of the season the staff are all Icelandic. The sea angling April 21st until September 20th. There is a they had around 100 five-star reviews. 10 www.icelandictimes.com A true winter wonderland In the winter, they offer a three hour-long Northern Lights bus tour, with a maximum of 14 people on each tour. Given the nature of the Northern Lights, the route for each tour is set on a daily basis depending on weather conditions and sighting opportunities. They provide donuts and hot chocolate to warm you up on the tour. The Northern Light tour operates from September 1st until April 15th. Happy Tours strives to make each of their tours an adventure and leave their customers happy! HappyVatnshellir Tours Cave Hringbraut 68, 220 HafnarfjörðurGufuskálar • 360 Hellsisandur +354+354 85 33 665 111 2818 [email protected] [email protected] www.happytours.is To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

eykjavík City Museum The Settlement Exhibition gives travellers the The Settlement Exhibition is as authentic opportunity to experience as it gets as it was built around the the history of Reykjavík actual ruins of a Viking Age longhouse in a fun and engaging that has been preserved in situ. way. The museum, which comprises The exhibition gives visitors a look into Rfive separate sites, aims to preserve the life of the first people who called Reykjavík’s cultural heritage, which the Reykjavík area their home and the dates back to the days of settlement in ways in which they adapted to their the late 9th century. new life. The construction of Viking Four of the museums are Age buildings is explained using conveniently within walking distance of multimedia technology. Computer downtown Reykjavík, while the Árbær technology is used to give an Open Air Museum is only a 15-minute impression of what life was like in the drive from the city centre. The ferry hall. The exhibition is suitable for all to Viðey Island leaves from the Old ages and includes an activity centre Harbour in downtown Reykjavík. –JG for children.

12 www.icelandictimes.com Árbær Open Air Museum The Árbær Open Air Museum is a treasure. The museum, which was founded in 1957, gives visitors a visual sense of Reykjavík’s past. The site comprises a village-like collection of more than 20 houses, each of which is a separate exhibition. Visitors learn how Reykjavík developed from a few isolated farms into the capital city of Iceland that is home to more than 120.000 people. During the summer months, staff members are clad in period costumes that are quite Reykjavík Museum charming and fun. The of Photography museum is suitable for Reykjavík is home to some great all ages and includes photographers, past and present. The a playground and a Reykjavík Museum of Photography has an toy exhibition where impressive collection, which now comprises children can play about six million photographs. The oldest freely. photos date from around 1860, giving a glimpse of city life decades ago. The museum preserves photographs from professional, and amateur photographers, including industrial and commercial photographers, as well as portrait and press photographers. Reykjavík is a vibrant city with rich history and contemporary Viðey Island culture. Stop by to Viðey is a little gem of an island check out the latest just off the coast of Reykjavík exhibitions. and is accessible by ferry. The island, which is just 1.6 km2 in size, hosts unspoiled nature with Reykjavík Maritime Museum vast stretches of grassy plains Fishing has been the backbone of Iceland since the days and rich birdlife, as well as the Family Friendly Fun of settlement. Fish nourishes Iceland’s inhabitants and John Lennon Peace Tower, an Reykjavík City Museum is family is an important industry, exporting Icelandic fish abroad. installation created by Yoko Ono, friendly and all museum sites have The Reykjavík Maritime Museum, which is located in along with art by world renowned something that caters to children. For the old harbour, focuses on artist Richard Serra. Viðey is a example, the exhibition “Come and exhibitions that show the favourite among birdwatchers, as play” at Árbær Open Air Museum has importance of fish to the the island is a nesting ground for a playground, furnished rooms with nation. Today, Icelanders more than 30 bird species. In the everything in child sizes as well as lots fish on modern trawlers, but summer, there are daily ferry trips of toys to play with. The Settlement in the old days, fishermen from the Old Harbour, Ægisgarður Exhibition has a special family corner regularly put their lives at harbour and Skarfabakki harbour. where children and parents can have risk on primitive boats in Please visit www.videy.com for a fun time together. The Reykjavík order to feed their families. the ferry schedule. Maritime Museum offers a fun treasure The museum shows the hunt for kids during their museum visit. equipment fishermen used through the ages. However, one of the main attractions at the museum is the Coast Guard ship, Óðinn, which took part in all Borgarsögusafn Reykjavíkur three cod wars with Britain. Guided tours are offered Grandagarði 8 • 101 Reykjavík +354 411 6300 daily at 13:00, 14:00, and 15:00. www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

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The Rise of Football

inhe Icelandhuge success of the of cheering Icelandic fans and the now One of the key contributing factors Icelandic men’s football famous Viking chant, reminiscent of has been the building of indoor football team over the last few the clashing of spears and swords in pitches in recent years in practically years has been nothing days of yore. In their latest conquest, the every community around the country. short of phenomenal. Not only did Icelandic team recently astounded the This has ensured that practice was not the team succeed in qualifying for world by qualifying for the 2018 World limited to the summer months only, as theT 2016 European Championship in Cup in Russia by beating teams such as had been the case for decades. Secondly, France, beating their opponents in the Croatia, Turkey and Ukraine. young people were much more willing tournament leading up to the finals, How, some ask, does such a small to put in time on the pitch when the the team’s shock 2-1 win over England nation with a population of only 330,000 fierce Icelandic weather was no longer will long be remembered in the annals manage to score so high with such a small able to hamper their enthusiasm. With of football history. Much of this was pool of players to choose from? It’s a good the increase of young players, more achieved with the support of thousands question with a complex answer. foreign-trained coaches arrived on the 14 www.icelandictimes.com scene, bringing more organisation to the practical development of the sport. These factors contributed to a change in Icelanders’ attitude towards football and among the fledgling players and coaches came a new vision for the future-that of seeing the possibilities for playing outside the country and becoming professionals in major leagues in foreign lands. Along with this came the direct exposure to the sport in other parts of the world via live television broadcasts and later via the internet. This high-tech revolution brought Icelanders closer to the outside world, enabling them to watch games in Europe and around the globe in real time. Last but not least, the dynamics of the team itself has played a big part; learning to overcome obstacles through unity, along with a dynamic Viking spirit are factors that have been attributed to the success of this outstanding team. Over the last 15-30 years, the Iceland Men’s National Football Team has grown by leaps and bounds, and the end is nowhere near in sight. Huh! -EMV 15 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

A Sweet Explosion Hafliðiin Ragnarsson’sIceland Artisanal Chocolates

ad you arrived in Iceland even 15 jobs around the shop. As a teen I became years ago, you would have been interested in cake baking, and entered hardH-pressed to find much in the way of many competitions, gradually working my luxury food items that other destinations way up to chocolate confectionery. In 2003 are known for. France, Switzerland and I won 1st place for best cake and best dessert Belgium, for example, have long been and 2nd place overall in the International celebrated for their culinary excellence Belgian Chocolate Awards competition.” and their mastery of the fine art of pastry and confectionery. When dreams come true and only Over the last few years however, the best will do Iceland’s gastronomic landscape has been The prestigious award paved the way for changing rapidly with new restaurants Hafliði, and that same year saw the opening and foods that were not seen here a of a café and bakery in downtown Reykjavík, decade ago, bringing a wave of excitement Mosfellsbakarí, which had been his dream to the industry. And now there is one for many years. Here you will find signature enterprising Icelander who is raising the boxes of hand-dipped chocolates lining the creations are made from only the best raw bar for fine chocolates in Iceland and has shelves and a glass display case full of his materials– almonds from Spain, hazelnuts the field pretty much to himself. most exclusive chocolate confections, sold from Italy and of course the holy grail of by the piece. At Christmas and Easter chocolate from producers such as Barry, Iceland’s Ambassador of Belgian especially, Hafliði pulls out all the stops Callebaut and Valrhona. Chocolate with beautifully packaged new creations His name is Hafliði Ragnarsson. He that show off his artistry to the full. The Ultimate Icelandic Indulgence comes from a long line of bakers—his It goes without saying that the master Do make it your mission while in Iceland great grandfather, his grandfather and his chocolatier insists on quality ingredients to search out these fabulous hand-crafted father all had a passion for baking and ran for all his creations. His beautiful sweets that also make wonderful gifts for the family bakery for as far back as he friends and family back home. For more can remember. “I information, go to www.konfekt.is or pop would help out in in at one of Mosfellsbakarí’s two locations, the bakery when I in Reykjavík and Mosfellsbær, on the way was 12 or 13 years to the Golden Circle. -EMV old, sweeping floors Mosfellsbakarí and doing odd Háholti 13-15 • 270 Mosfellsbær Mosfellsbakarí Háaleitisbraut 58-60 • 108 Reykjavík +354 566 6145 www.konfekt.is

16 www.icelandictimes.com Urta Islandica’s Gourmet

LocalThe family company Products that produces delightful teas, syrups, salts, and jams.

rta Islandica is a family-run business Add Urta to your cooking that specialises in producing and There are so many ways to incorporate these sellingU artisan products made from local delightful gourmet products into food and Icelandic ingredients. The products, which drinks. For instance, for a fillet of Arctic are sold at retailers around the country, Salmon, Urta Islandica’s Kelp and Garlic include unique herbal salts, teas and syrups, Salt pairs nicely with the fish along with along with jams and gift boxes. Rhubarb Chutney with Angelica. For a simple treat, consider the company’s syrups The Icelandic wild nature’s variety for homemade Rice Krispie Treats. Mix Urta Islandica uses more than 70 types of Rice Krispies with butter, white chocolate, wild herbs and berries in their products. Birch syrup and Arctic salt, or Liquorice The herbs are handpicked, dried and stored salt and Liquorice syrup for a more savory in good conditions so their freshness lasts option. As for Urta Islandica’s syrups, they longer. The company’s salt comes in many are perfect in cocktails; with their variety, flavours, which perfectly complement the all sorts of cocktails both alcoholic and food or cocktails you are preparing. For non-alcoholic, can be made. For instance, instance, their Arctic Herbal, Blueberry for an Urta Cocktail, mix apple juice, beet and Black Lava Salts go very well with meat juice, soda water, and lime juice with Urta’s dishes, while Rhubarb and Angelica, and Crowberry and Wild berry syrups. Top off Liqourice salts accompany desserts and with a pinch of parsley and three slices of cocktails very well. Kelp and Garlic salt is cucumber. the perfect topping for your baked potato All products are handmade and can be or homemade garlic bread. purchased online, at Urta Islandica’s shops, Urta Islandica’s herbal tea line is and in shops around Iceland. Urta Islandica impressive, with teas including Birch, Arctic also offers customised labels for all kinds of Thyme, Kelp and Ginger, and their famous occasions, company meetings or weddings. 100% Bilberry tea. If you enjoy sweets, you It’s the perfect food souvenir or gift from will love the company’s range of syrups all Iceland. -JG made with organic sugar and wild harvested Urta Islandica herbs and berries like Crowberry, Rhubarb, Austurgata 47, Birch, and Rowan berry. If you are looking 220 Hafnarfjörður +354 470 1300 for a tasty jam, it will be difficult to pick [email protected] www.urta.is/en just one, as their Traditional Caramelized Rhubarb jam, along with Wild Blueberry and Red Currant jams are divine, especially as a topping on their unique Black Lava Crackers which are made from Icelandic barley and herbs.

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Interview wAn incrediblei storyth from the Westfjords a Wby Magnús Kristjánssonhale n the first weekend of August in 2009, which is a national holiday in Iceland, I had an experience that has changed my life. I was staying with my family on the Hella farm in Steingrímsfjörður in the OWestfjords. It’s a wonderful place where you can immerse yourself in nature, and listen to the grass growing. On the far side of the fjord you’ll find Hólmavík, a fishing village with a few hundred inhabitants. At the mouth of the fjord there is Drangsnes with a similar population, and finally, the island of Grimsey, which is only inhabited by puffins. exactly that we wanted to help. That was not the whale would trust me. And the miracle Adventure in the morning easy, as it must have weighed 200 tons. happened—the whale lay calmly in the water On this morning, our kids had made their and waited, until I had removed the rope. way to the beach early, looking for adventure. To the rescue! Only then did it swim quietly away. Usually nothing happens when you are The 20-ton MS Sundhani from Drangsnes Later, from the beach, I could watch my looking for adventure. But this morning was came to our aid and, with the help of the friend for a long time, breaking through the very different. Our kids found a whale on approaching high tide we would try to drag waters of the fjord, on his way to freedom. We the Hveravík beach. A real blue whale that the whale into deeper water. We tied a rope both learned a lot that day. was still alive, blowing water fountains into around its tail and succeeded, using all the Focus on French the air. We all rushed to the beach and gazed machinery to the full, to actually move the Magnús company, Aðalsendibílar focusses at one of the largest living animals in the colossus. It responded initially with some on the needs of French visitors, with all the world, right in front of us. It must have been panic movements, which is understandable, guides being graduates in French. hunting for mackerel and got too close to the but then it calmed down and followed the beach and became stranded in the shallow ship out into the fjord. Half of the rescue of Tours for groups large and small water. Mackerel have previously not been so this magnificent creature was done! Tours run throughout the year, with vehicles far north, but marine scientists believe that to suit the conditions and the groups’ the increased temperature of the oceans is Magic between whale and human needs. Whether a coach for large groups or responsible for this new development. In the end, the removal of the rope was rather SuperJeeps for smaller groups, the tours visit a larger problem, and we finally decided to all the main sites and custom tours are a With the whale in the water just cut it. This was the start of the second speciality. -DT I dressed in my wetsuit, my friends tied a rope incredible story, as the whale remained close around my waist to secure me and I started to the ship. Not only that but it swam around wading through the water to the colossus. it several times and picked up the rope with What an incredible feeling to touch him, to sit its head, as if it wanted us to understand that Islande.is on his back, to feel its gurgling and bubbling, the loose, hanging rope would cause its death. +354 772 5225 while little fountains of water escaped from So I went into the water one last time—this [email protected] www.islande.is its blowholes! It seemed like the whale knew time on my own and in full confidence that 18 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.fr 19 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

64° Reykjavik Distillery: Quality Crafted Spirits An independent distillery with unique spirits and liqueurs The spirits, which can be enjoyed in mixed drinks or on their own, can be Reykjavik Distillery is a family- small batch distillation. The ingredients found in the finest restaurants and bars in run, independent micro-distillery are sourced sustainably, and are proudly Iceland as well as in state-run liquor stores. 64°that handcrafts unique Icelandic-inspired foraged locally in Iceland. Great care is spirits and liqueurs. Popular among spent in selecting the best ingredients Something for everyone locals and visitors alike, the spirits as the unique quality and intensity of There is a flavour to suit every taste: feature flavours including blueberry, the berries are key to the rich flavours of the blueberry, crowberry and rhubarb juniper, crowberry and rhubarb. The the spirits. There is a short window for liqueurs are on the sweet side and are distillery, which was founded in 2009, foraging berries in Iceland, so the pickers great for cocktails or to enjoy along with uses handcrafted processes to create the must time the season perfectly to collect a dessert. spirits including natural infusion and the best berries. Reykjavik Distillery’s Einiberja (juniper) is a delicious gin that has an elegant, pure, yet intense and crisp flavour. Meanwhile, the company’s Brennivín packs a bit of a punch. Distilled from the best organic caraway seeds and local angelica seeds, 64° Brennivín is enjoyed neat with traditional Icelandic food. Lately, local and international bartenders have discovered 64° Brennivín, along with other 64° Reykjavik Distillery spirits, to design fantastic cocktails. -JG Reykjavik Distillery +354 695 1008 [email protected] www.reykjavikdistillery.is

20 www.icelandictimes.com 21 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 BEST OF ICELAND Book of tourism, culture and history

he Icelandic Phallological Museum in Reykjavík is, without a doubt, one ofT a kind. It holds a collection of phallic specimens that belong to various types of mammals. Here in the museum you can see examples of more than 220 penises and penile parts that belong to all the land and sea mammals found in Iceland. It even has on display the penis of an old Icelandic gentleman who died in 2011 at the ripe old age of 95. Furthermore, the museum has between 40–50 specimens from foreign mammals including a giraffe and an elephant. “The purpose of the museum is showing these specimens,” says the curator, Hjörtur Sigurðsson, “but it’s also Hjörtur says that what gets the most and the Hidden People.” Regarding the a scientific museum. Many professionals, attention are the big things, like the penis Hidden People: some claim they can see such as biologists and doctors visit the of a sperm whale that is 1.7 metres long the hidden man’s penis; especially the museum to study. The purpose is also to and weighs somewhere between 70–80 women. - SJ educate and amuse people and, of course, kilos. Strangely, the human penis gets a The Icelandic Phallological Museum to lift the taboo that has shrouded this lot of attention too! Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavik subject for so long. It’s just a part of the For the foreigners, the folklore section +354 561 6663 anatomy; people should be able to discuss is popular. “They find it very funny that [email protected] www.phallus.is these things.” we can display penises from elves, trolls

22 www.icelandictimes.com BEST OF ICELAND Book of tourism, culture and history

The Icelandic Phallological Museum

23 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

n the town of Mosfellsbær, and Soffía are happy to work just a 15 minutes’ drive from with you to produce a custom Reykjavík,I master craftsman Páll knife made to your specifications. Kristjánsson (or Palli) and his More information can be found co-creator Soffía Sigurðardóttir at their websites listed below are hard at work in their rustic where you can browse their atelier, where they create an collections and even special array of handsome knives for order online. collectors, chefs, and all those who appreciate the workmanship that goes The Woman’s Touch Walk-ins Welcome into a finely crafted tool. For her part, Soffía, who has worked under Palli and Soffía’s workshop can be found at Palli’s tutelage for several years, has created a Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mosfellsbær. Opening Icelandic Artisans at Work line of beautiful professional kitchen knives hours are 9am–6pm, Monday through Damascus steel, well known for its durability and her own collection of steak knives Friday, from 9am–4pm on Saturdays or, if and razor sharp blades, as well as stainless steel and forks which are gaining in popularity. you are in the neighbourhood outside of from Denmark, Germany and Sweden are Blades for these knives come in various those hours, you are always welcome to choice materials favoured by Palli and Soffía. shapes and materials (Japanese, Damascus pop in for a chat. Many of the blades are Viking Age replicas steel or high carbon steel) and the finely Though a visit to their workshop would decorated with finely etched designs that are balanced handles make them a joy to use be well worth your time, you can also find then expertly paired with a handle carved by in the kitchen. Chefs, cooking schools and their products available in Brynja hardware Palli. Traditional Icelandic materials are all cooking enthusiasts tend to love to show store on Laugavegur 29 in the centre of used to create beautifully carved handles— off these one-of-a-kind handmade kitchen Reykjavík. -EMV birch, rowan, horse’s hooves, reindeer antler, tools that have become something of a goat and sheep horn and even fossilised sought after souvenir from Iceland. Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ wood. Palli’s knives can be found distributed +354 899 6903 [email protected] throughout the world in 85 countries and as Custom-made [email protected] collector’s items. They sometimes enjoy fierce Should you have your own design ideas or www.knifemaker.is bidding between collectors on the Internet. materials that you would like to use, Palli www.kitchenknives.is 24 www.icelandictimes.com nne Helen, owner of ‘The Little Christmas Shop’ on Laugavegur, Reykjavik’sA main shopping street, is what you might call a ‘one woman wonder’. Ten years ago, she decided it was time for a change and turned to doing what she does better than most of us; making the world a prettier place, clay. In addition to customary Christmas one Christmas ball at a time. ornaments, she includes local folklore figures, like the thirteen Yule Lads and the In the Land of Eternal Christmas Christmas Cat. Anne Helen, a genuine Anne Helen loves is to tell customers aesthete, says she has about Icelandic Christmas traditions. Visitors always had somewhat of often stop by simply because they’ve heard a Christmas obsession of her hospitality and the shop’s friendly and an intense passion atmosphere. They rarely leave empty handed. for things of beauty. She After all, placing an Icelandic Yule Lad on never goes for anything your Christmas tree every year is a great way to average but hunts for remember your visit to Iceland. –HÞ things of quality that truly stand out. Though she an extensive range, most made Litla Jólabúðin Laugavegi 8 • Reykjavík imports merchandise from all over Europe, exclusively for her by a number of craftsmen, +354 552 2412 her ambition is to specialise in Icelandic each having a distinctive approach and facebook handiwork and ornaments. She already has working in materials such as wool, glass and [email protected]

uality Icelandic design and leather she started her own business. “I’ve worked handcraft is much sought after. “My on some amazing projects, ranging from firstQ leather design was a handbag painted large buildings to single family homes. My with colourful artwork and patterns,” favourite projects are those where I design says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a successful everything from A-Z for private homes. independent architect who found a second Those projects would typically involve the career in creative leather designs. house and interior design, the landscaping Guðrún designs leather handbags and now around the house and the furniture inside.” she’s added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Her services are available upon request. Art accessory collection. “I wanted to use the The Ark Art collection is available at leather cut-offs for something useful, when I the National Art Gallery, Snorrastofa in came up with the idea to use them to make Reykholt, at Rammagerðin at the Keflavík jewellery—earrings and necklaces.” International Airport, and directly from Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery is Guðrún. More information can be found on recognisable by her use of thin leather rings or Facebook: Arkart-leatherdesign. -NHH squares and use of colours. It is a sophisticated yet simple design, skilfully using geometric Arkart Síðumúli 1 • 105 Reykjavík shapes and colours. Guðrún graduated from +354 551 5533 the Royal School of Architecture in Denmark [email protected] in 1986. After working at an architect’s office, www.facebook.com/pages/Arkart-leather-design/

25 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Celebrating 5 0 years 8 Compellingof Reasons toservice book a trip with Reykjavik Excursions

26 www.icelandictimes.com o you’ve made it to Iceland! Hurray! Now it’s time to decide on what to see, what to do and how to get there. The options are many, but we have made a list of 8 compelling reasons why booking a trip with Reykjavik Excursions Smight just be one of your best decisions yet. With Icelandic winter weather being 1rather unpredictable, it’s good to know that you don’t have to brave the elements on your own. Reykjavik Excursions is one of Iceland’s oldest tour companies. With seasoned drivers and 50 years of experience under its belt since its humble beginnings in 1968, you can rest assured that you will be in safe hands with encompass Iceland’s three celebrated Reykjavik Excursions—and that’s a reason to landmarks—Thingvellir National Park, celebrate! Geysir Geothermal Area and the raging Any road trip in Iceland during the Gullfoss waterfall, which make up the “big 2winter months demands preparedness three” of the Golden Circle. Reykjavik that only the most professional companies Excursions goes all out with a full list of can offer. activities that are paired with the Golden With its experienced drivers, guides Circle how about an ATV quad bike and specially equipped coaches, Reykjavik adventure tour, or a health and wellness Excursions maintains one of the largest tour that combines the Golden Circle with fleets in the country, with vehicles of all a relaxing dip in the geothermal waters of shapes and sizes taking you to all the most Laugarvatn Fontana? Or maybe you would beautiful spots in Iceland. And one of the prefer a few hours getting to know the coolest features has to be the fact that all Icelandic horse before heading off around the Reykjavik Excursions’ comfortable coaches Golden Circle. With so many combo tours are equipped with free Wi-Fi, so you can to choose from there is something to suit keep friends and family updated as you travel. everyone. One of the highlights of any winter trip Enjoy the peaceful calm of Iceland’s 3to Iceland is the possibility of seeing 5winter landscapes. the Northern Lights. Reykjavik Excursions’ hugely popular But those flirty, fleeting auroras have a South Coast Adventure tour is ideal for seeing reputation of being consistently inconsistent, all those iconic places that the south coast is dancing around the skies on their terms, not known for waterfalls such as Seljalandsfoss ours. To this end, Reykjavik Excursions has and Skógafoss, the black sand beach of The company is also certified by Vakinn, come up with a whole range of Northern Reynisfjara and the imposing basalt columns Iceland’s official independent quality and Lights tours in conjunction with other of Reynisfjall, the picturesque village of Vík environmental rating system. activities, thereby giving you more bang for and a walk up to Sólheimajökull glacier. Reykjavik Excursions is the only your buck. Choose from a variety of tours How exciting is that? 8company in Iceland with membership that cater to a plethora of interests Northern Getting from Keflavik Airport to in the Global Passenger Network, an Lights and the Golden Circle Combo 6Reykjavik has never been easier. international association founded to tour, Northern Lights and a countryside Reykjavik Excursions’ shuttle, known as promote the highest standards in coach langoustine dinner, Northern Lights by boat. the Flybus is conveniently timed to coincide operations worldwide. How about a Northern Lights, lava tube cave with many arriving and departing flights. Be warm, be well and enjoy Iceland this and skyr factory visit? All of these and more This means you can stay with Reykjavik winter with Reykjavik Excursions. Oh... and are available to help you get the most out of Excursions from the moment you begin your Happy 50th, Reykjavik Excursions! -EMV your time in Iceland and maximising your journey until it is time to say goodbye. chances of catching the Northern Lights. Reykjavik Excursions is the first Reykjavik Excursions What is a trip to Iceland without Icelandic tour operator to be 7 BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavik 4seeing the Golden Circle? granted the ISO 14001 certification for +354 580 5400 Reykjavik Excursions offers a whole environmental management from the [email protected] www.re.is smorgasbord of possible day tours that British Standard Institute (BSI). 27 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

TheThey sell World’s to the stars but Mostare known onlyExclusive to the few Watchmaker

t is probably the world’s smallest watchmaker, located in a very small shopI in one of the world’s smallest countries and yet they produce the most exquisitely crafted and sought-after hand made watches. In this era of electronic, battery-powered watches, you might expect that automatic mechanical watches had passed into history. Nothing could be further from the truth. There is a greater demand for high quality timepieces that will outlast the temporary electronic watch phenomenon.

The choice of connoisseurs You can be defined by your choices. There are watches for the mass market and there are those watches that are individualised, personalised collectors’ items, works of art that are cherished for generations. These are investments - e s p e c i a l l y those limited Relying on reliability Wear the volcano editions. Yet, Pilots and the Icelandic Iceland used to be known as “Europe’s they have a key coastguard have to be Best Kept Secret” but it was thrust into the place in the able to trust their limelight in 2010 with the Eyjafjallajökull lives of the wearers. watches. Lives could volcanic eruption. The fine ash that brought Kings, princesses, depend on them. The Europe’s air traffic to a halt now coats the international leaders from East and West, coastguard are issued with the “Sif” face of the most sought-after watch, the film stars, rock idols – all have made their watch, designed especially for them. Goð. Ornate Viking engravings on the case way to the small shop on Laugavegur, The only watch in the range without a make this watch stand out – especially as Reykjavik’s main shopping street, to select transparent back, it has a 4mm Sapphire some of the engraving can be personalised their own watch, have it assembled and non-reflective glass and can be used to a to make it totally unique. –ASF personalised just for them, a testament to depth of at least 1,000 metres. It is also their discernment of true quality. available to the general public, along JS Watch co. While I was visiting the shop, with it’s with pilots’ watches, likewise known Laugavegur 62 • 101 Reykjavik +354 551 4100 wall filled with photos of well-known for their dependability and absolute [email protected] personalities who are now wearing their reliability. www.jswatch.com watches, I couldn’t help but wonder if it was only the rich and famous who could afford such time pieces. My answer came as I was standing there. A beautiful young woman came to pick up a watch she had ordered and two tourists selected watches for themselves. They would return later in the day to collect their watches after their selections had been assembled specifically for them in the tiny studio at the back of the shop. Others, wanting something even more personal, have their watches engraved on the inner rotor with special messages. 28 www.icelandictimes.com Live with

The Viking Village gives you a baptism into Viking life here are rumoursthe that busloads ofVikings given large wooden plates of food and jugs tourists have been snatched from of drinks, regaled with stories and songs by theirT coaches in Hafnarfjörður by wild minstrels, in an evening to be remembered Viking warriors and held in a rock wall a lifetime. Fish from the harbour across cave, watched over by a polar bear at one the road, sheep’s head and lamb and other end and the Viking god, Thor, at the other. Icelandic cuisine is on the menu. The reports say that they were treated Those taken in mid-June, found mercifully, given plush rooms to stay in, a themselves guests at the Viking market chance to bathe in the geothermal hot pool where, under rough tents, artisans made sheltered by a rock wall, overlooked by gods, and sold their wares. They sat enthralled before being brought into the Viking long as competing tribes fought a pitched battle. You don’t have to wait to be abducted, you hall - a restaurant in modern parlance - Vikings love to celebrate and the can book in advance. Horses are stabled with rough-hewn wooden tables, under Valhalla hall is set aside for groups of up to elsewhere, nowadays. the watchful gaze of Freyja, the goddess of 50. It’s a the place for wedding celebrations, The Viking crafts have lived on and can fertility, a large wooden carving over the for schools or incentive groups to get be seen - and taken home with you, for a upstairs bar. Viking shields that look as if together. Many are even inducted into the little bit of silver - crafts from the Nordic they’ve been used recently and the heads warrior clan, given helmets and certificates, countries, Faroe Islands, Greenland and of wild animals like reindeer, hang on the certifying their valour. Iceland, itself. Probably the best thing you’ll walls alongside murals of major events from Not only is the hotel state of the art in take home is the experience of real Viking history. every one of its 42 rooms that early Vikings hospitality. The bar dispenses drinks of all kinds, would envy - or snort at, depending on Fjörukráin while above it, fish swim in a large tank, their disposition, but there are also 14 Strandgata 55 • 220 Hafnarfjordur held up by hand-carved wood pillars. An Viking cottages for families or couples who +354 565 1213 equally massive stone throne awaits a worthy want something different. For the modern [email protected] www.fjorukrain.is chieftain. The abductees are treated royally, guests, there is also WiFi and parking space. 29 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

xploring the surface of a glacier is thrilling, Ebut actually getting inside one is a once- in-a-lifetime experience. The staff behind Into the Glacier offer travellers that rare opportunity. Situated in the western part of Langjökull, the second largest ice cap in Iceland, and 1,260 metres above sea level, the ice cave stretches 40 metres deep underground, giving visitors the chance to see ice that’s been forming over

centuries. The ice cave stretches more than 550 Image © Roman Gerasymenko metres into the glacier. wooden beams, it serves as a venue for Trip to the Top weddings, marriage proposals and concerts. The classic guided tour begins in Húsafell, Into the Glacier offers daily departures which is 130km from Reykjavík, when from Húsafell at 12:30pm and the tour lasts guests board one of the most unique vehicles about four hours during the winter. Day ever made, a customised super truck. This tours from Reykjavík to the ice cave are truck, which seats up to 35 passengers, was available as well. For those that would like acquired from NATO, who originally used it to treat themselves to a meal, you can buy a as a cruise missile launcher. The 20km trip scrumptious lunch at Hotel Húsafell before up to the glacier is an experience in itself something very few have seen. Lit by LED you head out on your excursion. So be sure in good weather or bad. Clear days offer lights, guests begin to explore the tunnel, to put Into the Glacier on your list of 'must exquisite views of the vast icy desert, while with a knowledgeable guide leading small do's in Iceland! -JG poor weather conditions reveal the power and groups, sharing many interesting facts about unpredictability of Icelandic weather. Iceland’s glaciers. Travellers are treated to Into theVatnshellir Glacier Cave views of gaping crevices as they look above. Viðarhöfði 1 • 110 Reykjavík Enter the Glacier Additionally, there is a special area in the +354 578 2550 Once inside, travellers, with crampons cave, which developers named ‘the chapel’, [email protected] www.intotheglacier.is attached to their feet, get to experience with LED-lit blocks of ice supporting 30 www.icelandictimes.com YOUR SAFETY ON ICELANDIC ROADS Seatbelts for all Headlights always ON Driver & all passengers Head- & taillights are must wear seatbelts required to be ON at all times - all year round Do not stop on the road Don’t stop on the road to Avoid driving when tired take pictures or for other Be sure you get enough Z Z non-emergency actions sleep before driving Z

Choose the safe speed Weather & road conditions Choose your speed in Check weather & road accordance with road surface in advance on & weather conditions road.is & safetravel.is

Lower your speed Single lane bridges This sign warns that you The car that approaches are approaching a a single lane bridge gravel road - slow down first, crosses first

Unexpected road users No phone while driving Livestock you see near You are obliged to park the road can suddenly the car in a safe place - run across the road. not on the road - before Slow down using your phone

The road is closed Child safety in cars Don’t risk your life & It is required to use safety by driving on a special safety equipment CLOSED (LOKAÐ) road for children. Further info on icetra.is

We wish you a safe & pleasant trip

31 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Chocolate Designed & Made in Iceland

Omnon produces delightful chocolate in Reykjavík’s only bean to bar chocolate factory.

mnom Chocolate has been making Impressive product range Owaves in the Icelandic chocolate scene Omnom has an exciting array of chocolate since launching in 2013. The company sources products including single origin bars like and produces chocolate from cacao beans from Madagascar 66% and Tanzania 70%, milk Madagascar, Nicaragua and Tanzania. In a bars like Milk of Madagascar 45%, white first for Iceland, Omnom, takes the chocolate bars and flavoured bars like a hazelnut process from bean to bar, sorting, roasting edition that was released for the holidays. A and grounding the beans to create delicious popular choice is Lakkris + Sea Salt, which chocolate in a variety of flavours. is a favourite among Icelanders and tourists who enjoy black liquorice. The Madagascar plenty of samples along the way to taste Starting a company and Tanzania bars have very distinct the different flavours. The hour-long tour, Kjartan Gíslason, a trained chef, who worked fruity flavours, which are translated in the which costs ISK 3,000, is a lovely way to for Dill restaurant in Reykjavík, partnered dark and milk versions. They also have spend some time learning about Iceland’s with a friend to create Omnon. Kjartan the Coffee + Milk where they add coffee sole chocolate factory, the creative process began by experimenting with chocolate beans instead of Cocoa nibs, resulting in a behind the products, the story behind the at home. “It started out of curiosity,” says surprising chocolate-coffee fix. exquisitely designed packaging and offers Kjartan. “As a chef you make a chocolate the chance to buy bars. Stop by the factory mousse or chocolate cake, but you don’t Omnom bean to bar chocolate factory during your next visit to Reykjavík! -JG think too much about the chocolate process. The factory, which is located in the hip I began researching more and more, then neighbourhood of Grandi near Reykjavík’s bought equipment and Omnon was started.” harbour, offers daily tours at 14:00. The OMNOM Hólmaslóð 4, 101 Reykjavik While the company started small, it has tours give visitors a chance to learn 354 519-5959 grown to a much-loved and wildly popular about the whole bean to bar chocolate www.omnomchocolate.com fixture on the Icelandic chocolate scene. making process, and guests are given 32 www.icelandictimes.com 33 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Aurora Reykjavík’s Northern Lights Center lets you see the Lights all year

here is perhaps nothing more magical learn something about the science behind and unforgettable than witnessing the this amazing phenomenon and gaze at beautyT of a Northern Lights display in one’s spectacular Northern Lights photography lifetime. It’s the dream of many who come from top Icelandic photographers. There to Iceland, but alas, those unpredictable, is even a specially equipped ‘photo booth’ frenetic lights tend to have a mind of their where you can learn how to adjust your own and don’t always show up on cue— camera’s settings should you want to try your and certainly not in the summer months. hand at capturing an auroral display yourself. gift shop and check out the impressive So it is with great joy that we welcome one display of clothing, glassware, paintings of Iceland’s most recent additions—Aurora Soothing Sights and Sounds and woollen knitwear by some of Iceland’s Reykjavík’s Northern Lights Center, where However, Aurora Reykjavík’s real pull and most creative designers. The theme? You the Northern Lights are always on display. ace up its sleeve is its fantastic HD time- guessed it. -EMV lapse film of recent auroral activity. Projected A Unique Experience onto a 7 metre-wide screen, you can sit Setting the record straight The centre is the unique creation of back and enjoy this 13 minute film that While in Iceland, you might be told that four enterprising young Icelanders who features a dazzling display of auroral activity, the outside air temperature needs to recognised the need for just such a place— accompanied by relaxing music. Therapeutic be around 0°C or below in order to see a kind of one-stop-shop for all things and restful are two words that come to mind the Northern Lights. The oft quoted Northern Lights. Located on the far side of to describe this zen-like experience. Reykjavík’s Old Harbour, the centre serves but erroneous assumption is that the Northern Lights only appear at these both educational and inspirational purposes. Hot coffee and choice gifts Here you can read up on the auroras through Before leaving, be sure to grab a free cup temperatures. We would just like to set the stories and legends from around the world, of coffee in the Northern Lights Center record straight that while it is true that the Northern Lights do happen to be visible more often when the air is cold and the sky is clear, their appearance has nothing to do with actual temperature of the air.

AuroraVatnshellir Reykjavík Cave Grandagarður 2 • 101 Reykjavík +354 780 4500 [email protected] www.aurorareykjavik.is

34 www.icelandictimes.com ANCESTORS’ KNOWLEDGE HEALTHY FOOD DIRECT FROM THE EARTH

In the old days, people still had knowledge about nature’s richness. They used what Wild Nature provided them: picked leaves and herbs, or searched the shores for the ocean’s supplies such as seaweed. The shore is a garden; you just have to know where to harvest and what to collect. A PIONEER HAND PICKED AND HEALTHY Biologist Eyjólfur Friðgeirsson knows nature pretty well. The hand-picked Iceland moss is ready for use in tea, He is passionate about the harvesting of nature, which bread or porridge. In the old days, seaweed was he sees as a food source and a treasure for delicacies. consumed in times of famine. Today we know that there In 2005 he started his company Íslensk hollusta, aiming is hardly a more nutrient food. By adding seaweed to at the use of natural Icelandic products in their own your daily diet, you can be sure that you are consuming taste and freshness. ingredients from unspoiled Icelandic waters. Eyjólfur is a pioneer in his field in Iceland. He was the Homemade sauces, juices and jams made from first one to revive the idea of using seaweed as a dried traditional materials are a treat. Pamper your body with snack. The country is rich in natural resources when it a rich bath salt, or treat yourself with Icelandic Herbal comes to nutriment. His task was to reawaken folk Tea and Arctic Thyme Tea from Íslensk hollusta. knowledge about how to harness these gifts of the Try the Viking Salt, produced with an ancient salt earth. The idea proved to be a success, and today his production method. goods can be purchased in souvenir shops around “Wild Nature knows what is best; we pick it for Iceland. Spiced Salt (a seasoned salt made according you, and you just have to take it home,” to his special recipe) is an excellent contribution to says Eyjólfur. your cuisine and a perfect gift.

www.islenskhollusta.is www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Your safety on

Icelandicgood driver recognizes his NO OFFROAD DRIVING roadsLIGHTS ON ALL HOURS inability and inexperience. It is illegal to drive off-road in Iceland. The OF THE DAY The best and bravest drivers reason is nature's fragility. Sand deserts that Be sure to turn the driving lights on. are those who stop or go back seems to be lifeless, are not if you look closer. You are required by law to turn on your Abefore they drive into dangerous situation Be sure to stay on a recognized road or a headlights and rear lights all year, all or conditions that they are unfamiliar trail. If the trail is not marked on a map – hours of the day. This makes your car with. In some cases it may be wiser to use don’t go there. more visible and increases your safety. public transport or serviced tours. Following are some points to bear ARE YOU CAUSING DANGER? WEATHER AND ROAD in mind when driving in Iceland. Even Don’t stop or park the vehicle on the road CONDITIONS though you think you are a good unless in a case of emergency. There is no Foreign travellers requiring information driver, which you probably are, we photo or sight worth the danger of stopping on weather, road and driving conditions highly recommend that you visit www. on the road. Not even if there is little traffic. should visit the the Icelandic Road and drive.is or www.safetravel.is for further Coastal Administration English website at information. Among other things we ALCOHOL & DRUGS www.road.is or call 1777. When driving highly recommend that you take a look Under NO circumstances, is it permitted to in winter, roads can get very icy and your at the animated video with the famous drive while under the influence of alcohol or tyre grip gets vastly compromised. Please Icelandic elf – Elfis – who is a specialist in narcotic substances. drive in accordance with the road surface road safety. However, following are the and your own ability and experience. most important things to bear in mind: SPEED The speed limit in populated areas is usually YOU STILL NEED TO FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS 50 km/h. Speed limit signs are usually not REST AND SLEEP It is mandatory by law to have a safety belt posted unless it is other than 50 km/h, for In the summer you will get up to 24 hour on - both passengers and drivers. If one or example 30 km/h. The main rule in rural daylight. Please make sure you get enough more is not using safety belt, it may harm areas is that gravel roads have a speed limit sleep and rest as your body might be getting others in the car if an accident occurs. of 80 km/h, and paved roads 90 km/h. mixed signals as to whether it's tired. 36 www.icelandictimes.com Your safety on

Icelandic roads SINGLE–LANE BRIDGES There are many single-lane bridges on the Ring Road. This sign BLIND HILLS shows that you Blind hills, where lanes are not are approaching a separate, can be very dangerous, BLIND CURVES single-lane bridge. Slow down and bear in and should be approached with utmost There are many blind curves in Iceland mind that the actual rule is that the car caution. Keep the vehicle as far right that test a driver’s skill and attention. closer to the bridge has the right-of-way. as possible.

LIVESTOCK GR AVEL ROADS CLOSED MEANS IT’S CLOSED ON THE ROAD Rural roads, where a Closed roads are CLOSED for a reason, Sheep, horses and paved road suddenly usually because of impassable snow even cows can be changes to gravel, are on the road or other risks. If you pass a in your path on common accident "Closed" (“Lokað” in Icelandic) sign you Icelandic roads. sites. This sign will most likely run into trouble which Sometimes a sheep indicates that you could endanger, not only you, but also is on one side of are approaching such those who have to come for your rescue. the road and her lambs on the other side. situations. It is very important that drivers It can be costly in terms of time Under these conditions, which are common, reduce speed before the changeover to gravel. and money. it is a good rule to expect the lambs or the When driving on gravel roads, which are sheep to run to the other side. often quite narrow, it is important to show caution in turns and when a car coming This article is based on information from the Icelandic from the opposite direction approaches. Transport Authority (ICETRA), www.drive.is 37 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 We Specialise In Your Adventure

Iceland 4x4 Car Rental We take pride in flexible and personal service

celand 4x4 Car Rental specialises in four- like to breathe fresh, clean air for a change? highlands and being able to stop and enjoy wheel drive vehicles intended for safe and Let your ears expand in the silence? Let your whatever it is that catches your eye. comfortableI travels in Iceland. Their fleet eyes stretch to the horizons amid the rich ranges from medium sized 4WD hatchbacks colours and textures of nature and drink the Their mission to 4WD jeeps and light pickup trucks that purest of waters, straight from its source in It is the mission of Iceland 4x4 Car Rental are especially adapted for Icelandic road the mountains? to provide their customers with great cars, conditions all year round. In addition, they How about bathing in a naturally-heated exceptional service and rental rates, and a lasting offer specially equipped vehicles for travelling pool surrounded by real flowers–and be your impression of our amazing Icelandic nature. deep into Iceland’s Interior highlands (see their own master? Their friendly, knowledgeable and Special Offer Car). Iceland 4x4 Car Rental is a professional staff will help educate and inspire local brand and they take pride in flexible and Iceland 4x4 Self-drive their customers to have wonderful travels in personal service, as well as competitive prices. Taking a bus ride into the wilderness of Iceland is our amazing country. always fun but what they provide is the incredible feeling of being free and in total control of your Iceland 4x4 Car Rental Adventurous times Grænásvegur 10, 230 Reykjanesbær Break Out From the Crowds and the Polluted, own vacation. Renting a car with Iceland 4x4 Car +354 535 6060 Paved Cities. Take an adventurous trip into Rental gives you the real opportunity to explore [email protected] Mother Nature’s back yard. Wouldn’t you the deep interior of the untouched Icelandic www.iceland4x4carrental.com/ 38 www.icelandictimes.com We Specialise In Your Adventure

Take an adventurous trip into Mother Nature's back yard on our specially equipped Jeep Grand Cherokee To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

heep came to Iceland with the Viking the designs took the form of the ‘lopapeysa’ or settlers and quickly proved their value, not sweater, with its distinctive scalloped pattern, Sonly for their meat but also their wool and skins. which has become so popular worldwide, but Living conditions were very basic and especially numerous young Icelandic designers have also tough in the cold and dark winter months. turned their attention to wool as a medium of Sheep helped keep the settlers alive. choice for their fashion designs, resulting in These Icelandic sheep have two types of new products, styles and colours. fleece—an outer, weather and water repellent Today, there is a wide range of sweaters, layer and a soft, warm fleece close to the skin. gloves, hats, scarves, socks, bags and many Combined, they have provided warm clothing other items in sizes to suit everyone from a for farmers and seamen, adults, children and Viking warrior (or farmer) to a pretty fashion babies for centuries. Making sweaters became model to a newborn baby. a tradition in farmhouses, cottages and houses The store is a centre, not around the country. that has made Icelandic wool so only for selling the finished special for hundreds of years. products, but also for supplying From home to market The Handknitting Assn.’s shop the wool and all the accessories The Handknitting Association of Iceland was only stocks genuine Icelandic required to make woollen items. founded in 1977 to help knitters to get their wool and clothing made by If knitting is your hobby, there handiwork marketed. A group of women professional Icelandic knitters, is a world of warm designs just formed the association, establishing standards so you can be certain you are getting the true, waiting for you. and guidelines for the production that was— well-made product. Look for the logo to be sure. Icelandic wool wears very well and it is not and still is, an important supplement to many Their motto from the outset has been, ‘Buy uncommon for people to wear sweaters many family incomes. Shortly thereafter, they opened directly from the people who make them’. years and for them to still look fresh. a shop to sell their members’ woollen goods Walking into the shop, one cannot help but Visitors can have their purchases shipped at Skólavörðustígur 19, the main shopping be amazed at the skill and productivity of these to them and they can also order from the street that descends from Hallgrímskirkja, the ladies—and some men, too, from all walks of website. That includes the patterns, wool, cathedral overlooking the city. life, living in all parts of the country. Every needles and accessories, not just the clothing. item has that sense of individual uniqueness –ASF that only handmade items carry. Find the real thing The Handknitting Association of Iceland In today’s globalised society, it is increasingly Skólavörðustígur 19 • 101 Reykjavík difficult to be sure you are getting a genuine Traditional and modern styles +354 552 1890 article, rather than one made thousands of miles The world of knitting has changed dramatically [email protected] www.handknit.is away, with wool that lacks the characteristics since the association began. A few decades ago,

40 www.icelandictimes.com TRÉTTIRhe Yearly

n Septemberheep the majority of farmers ounddomesticatedup sheep go, and then expect to Sacross the country will be herding R reclaim- them again by the! end of summer? theirI sheep from the plateaus of Iceland, We did some research to unveil the secrets which have been roaming freely in the surrounding the roaming sheep, which wilderness throughout the whole summer. most travellers have encountered on their The sheep round-up is an annual event journey in the countryside of Iceland. that most farmers look forward to as it will reveal the results of the quality of Born to Be Wild…. their year’s production. The occurrence Once a dam gives birth to a lamb, she also serves as a major social setting and is commonly kept inside the cowshed is typically enveloped with good spirits for the first two weeks, followed by a (partially from flasks being passed two week adjustment period on the around), gatherings of friends, rejoicing of farmland. After that the magic begins. neighbours and, of course, some singing Depending on the location of the farm, and dancing. And the younglings love to it is often enough for the farmers to take part in the gaiety. simply open their gates to the wild and So how does this whole process work? the sheep will know what is expected How on earth can farmers simply let their of them – to leave the farm. Some Photography: Anna Maria Gunnþórsdóttir

41 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

farmers may need to transport their sheep in trucks to the heaths to set them free. The dam will guide her lamb to succulent grazing grounds where she and her young will feed of forbs, seaweed, heather and sometimes on the leaves of the short- statured birch spinney. Any type of sprout is their particular favourite. They will cover large areas on their journey without ever coming in touch with fertilised pastures. This all-natural superfood will result in remarkable growth of the lamb. It is common practice to free the sheep in early June, when the lamb weighs about 7 kg (approx. 15 lbs). Once the sheep is collected in September or early October, on average the lamb will have gained a staggering 35 kg (80 lbs). This amounts Momma Knows Best! of workdays depending on the number to almost 400 g of added weight per day - Once it is time to herd the sheep from of winter-fed sheep they keep. The more and hence the lamb will have sextupled its the summer feeding grounds, good sheep, the more manpower they possess weight in only three months! Of course organisation comes in handy. The sheep and thus a larger search area, measured weather conditions play a major role as herders will comb the areas against the in workdays, is assigned to them. But the weight gain of the lamb is directly borders of their neighbouring parishes. here’s where the farmers’ experience is correlated to the sprout of the vegetation. Farmers are assigned a certain number paramount. Most farmers know their

42 www.icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.com sheep and their habits so they have a summer, at the time when the sheep roam pretty good idea of their whereabouts free. Most accidents occur when the lamb beforehand. Amazingly, the good attempts to follow its mother to the other knowledge of the dams gets passed on side of the road, jumping without warning through generations, and the ewe lamb, in front of passing traffic. If you are met once grown up, will eventually follow with the unfortunate tragedy of driving her mother’s path and lead her own over a sheep, please be kind enough to younglings to the same locations. notify the appropriate authorities about the mishap. This will inform the farmer about Home Sweet Home the loss or allow for necessary measures to Once all the sheep from the region have be taken, such as providing medical care for been gathered into the fold, the sorting the sheep. Most farmers will not insist on begins. Thankfully, each sheep is carefully their homeland. Though they try to make any penalties to be paid as they are already marked to ensure the rightful reclamation an effort to keep their herding limited to insured for such causalities. by the farmer. A fully grown brood ewe will country roads, riding trails and beaten have three types of markings; a mark on paths, they are sometimes forced to use the Making a Mark her horn to refer to her province, a plastic main roads. In which case you might come Whilst travelling the beautiful countryside label in her ear to refer to her district and across a traffic disturbance that will look of Iceland you will without doubt come an earmark which pertains to the farmer. quite unconventional. across free ranging sheep, either close-up by Not only do the thorough markings ensure the side of the roads, or at the very least, as the reunion of the sheep and owners but By All Means! white clouds dressing up the landscape from they also play a key role in preventing theft. Do drive carefully when exploring the afar. They certainly put their mark on their Once all the sheep have been accounted countryside of Iceland - not only during surroundings and have served as inspiration for, the farmer will eagerly tout the sheep to the round-up season, but throughout the to Icelandic artists throughout time. -ES

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A Taste of Vietnam in Reykjavík Vietnam Restaurant serves enticing cuisine in the heart of the capital city.

eykjavík’s culinary charm is quite Vegan-friendly dining impressive for a small city, with a Non-meat eaters will feel more than Rgrowing number of choices to suit all welcome as Vietnam Restaurant has a tastes. While there are traditional Icelandic large vegan section that is big on flavour. restaurants serving up fresh fish and For instance, guests can enjoy vegan tender lamb fillets, there are also fantastic noodle soups and bowls of pho, and even eateries specialising in food that you may deep-fried spring rolls with tofu, carrots, not expect to see in Iceland. For instance, mushrooms, cabbage, mung beans and Vietnam Restaurant features classic and a mouth watering sweet and sour sauce, inventive Vietnamese food in two locations among several other dishes. in Reykjavík. Two wonderful locations Impressive Menu The Vietnam Restaurant to be found at Quality ingredients, friendly service and a Suðurlandsbraut 8, conveniently located cosy environment make Vietnam Restaurant close to Hilton Nordica Hotel, City Park a favourite among locals and travellers. The Hotel and Reykjavík Lights Hotel, is the menus feature many of the staples you original outpost. It has a cosy atmosphere expect to see such as savoury summer and and friendly staff who are eager to ensure spring rolls, tasty rice and noodle dishes, and you have an ideal dining experience. glorious bowls of Pho. Pho stands for meat, The newest location at Laugavegur 27 vegetables and rice noodles in a clear broth is located in the heart of downtown with grilled ginger, charred onion and an Reykjavík. It’s the perfect place for a meal array of spices. after some time exploring museums, shops, Main courses include delicious options and cafes in the trendiest and liveliest part like fried lamb with vegetables and satay of Reykjavík. -JG sauce, grilled lobster with spicy Tamarind sauce, and fried beef in a delicate oyster sauce Vietnam Restaurant with vegetables. There are also sandwiches, Suðurlandsbraut 8 salads and dessert options on the menu, as Laugavegur 27 well as wine, beer and cocktails. There is +354 588-6868 www.pho.is truly something for everyone. 44 www.icelandictimes.com ICELAND FROM ABOVE Land in creation YFIR ÍSLANDI

Amazing variety and stunning beauty Bird’s eyeMYNDIR view of all OG the popular TEXTI placesEFTIR on BJÖRN 128 pages RÚRIKSSON CD-size – soft cover – Only 170 grams

Available in most bookstores, many hotels and souvenir shops

OO JARÐSÝN - SELFOSSI PuBLIshER To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

The Renaissance of Traditional

FoodsÍslensk Hollusta leads thein way Iceland celand is decidedly in fashion 2008. With it came a shift in the collective snacks, herb-marinated seaweed, berry nowadays and people can’t get consciousness, as people–not only in juices and bath products. Especially popular enough of the tiny country that was Iceland, but around the world searched for are the geothermal sea salts that are blended virtually unknown to most of the world sustainable practices as an answer to the with herbs, seaweed and berries, and have Ifor centuries. In just the last decade, failures of globalism and mass production. the power to take ordinary food up a few Iceland has burst onto the scene in a way In 2005, as if in anticipation of changes to notches in taste. that no one anticipated and now it has come, biologist Eyjólfur Friðgeirsson began become one of the top destinations for collecting one of the old Icelandic staples Rising Stars international travel. that had been used for centuries– dulse, a In the wake of this culinary revolution, one There was a period, however, in the not so nutrient-rich red seaweed that grows wild of Iceland’s top chefs began using Íslensk distant past when Icelanders began to feel around Iceland’s south coast. He named his Hollusta products: Gunnar Karl Gíslasson, rather ashamed of their heritage–traditional company ‘Íslensk Hollusta’, which means former head chef of Dill, Iceland’s only foods, the turf house tradition and the old Icelandic wholesomeness. Michelin starred restaurant helped put ways that were part and parcel of Icelandic Íslensk Hollusta products on the map. culture for 1000 years were suddenly ‘out’. In with the old, and out with the new The company also supplies a number of New tools, machinery, transportation and As a result of the financial crash in Iceland, prestigious clients within the restaurant fast foods of the mid-20th century began many previously imported foodstuffs were industry with herbs, berries and seaweed; to replace the old but Iceland’s mad dash abandoned and Icelanders began to take Noma in Copenhagen, Agern in New York towards modernity finally came crashing a good hard look at what was in their own and Texture in London to name a few of the down during the financial collapse of backyards: wild plants such as angelica, most recognisable. Hekla pumice and algae arctic thyme, Irish moss and dulse began are also sought after by many international to take on a new importance and enjoyed cosmetic companies. a newfound place in Icelandic food culture. Plants that had once been liberally used in Ever innovating healing remedies and for nutrition suddenly Eyjólfur continues to innovate with new began to enjoy a renaissance that continues products in this growing market for local to this day. Icelanders finally found their products and is now the biggest seller of dulse voice, and their passion for a cuisine centred in Iceland. Other popular products include around indigenous ingredients was born. geothermal bath salts and a moisturising Eyjólfur and his company was there at the oil for skin care that contains birch, Iceland forefront of this new wave that continues to moss, Angelica and geothermal salt from this day and shows no sign of abating. Reykjanes Peninsula. Íslensk Hollusta products make excellent Handpicked and healthy gifts to take with you for family and friends In addition to dulse, Eyjólfur and his team back home and they can be found at select began to collect other native plants such souvenir shops around the country, as well Iceland moss, angelica, kelp, lovage, birch, as at the Duty Free shop at Keflavik Airport. bilberries and crow berries which continue -EMV to be used in the creation of his line of Íslensk hollusta healthy products. Every summer, some 70 Skútahraun 7 220 Hafnarfjörður to 80 “pickers” are employed to collect these +354 864 4755 raw materials by hand that are used in the [email protected] making of herbal teas, spices, condiments, www.islenskhollusta.is 46 www.icelandictimes.com 47 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

RomanticTime Tours teams up with Stanley Allan, Trends Wedding Photographer par excellence

ward winning Indonesian photographer, many unspoiled... and secret locations. The Stanley Allan, has been wowing an company is dedicated to helping Stanley Aever growing list of followers with his Allan and his clients achieve the seemly gorgeous pre-wedding photo packages impossible to the delight of all concerned. in Iceland and around the world. Over To see more of Stanley Allan’s work, the last three years, Allan has teamed please visit his website: www.ppfphoto.com up with Time Tours to deliver stunning or follow him on Instagram. photos that are all the rage with newly engaged couples. With the backdrop of Time Tours ehf Audbrekka 25-27 • 200 Kopavogur Iceland’s breathtaking natural scenery as +354 578 7111 his canvas, Allan takes full advantage of +354 820 0245 www.timetours.is Iceland’s unique lighting conditions and [email protected] is rising fast in the competitive world of wedding and pre-wedding photography.

Romanticism revisited The trend in pre-wedding photography is big at the moment. In Asia especially, couples are eager to go all out to capture not only their wedding, but also their engagement period in the weeks and months leading up to the actual wedding. The pre-wedding photos are later displayed on the big day for a contingent of guests that sometimes can number anywhere from 500 to 1,000 friends and family.

Dreaming of that perfect day Allan’s exceptionally keen eye scours the landscape for those precise moments when the scenery and lighting all converge at exactly the right moment to produce stunning results. Many brides bring an entire wardrobe of exquisite gowns-one for each location, braving the cold, the wind and the biting temperatures to capture the moment. Iceland’s moody winter landscapes and brooding grey skies, contrasted with the bold colours of the bride-to-be’s gowns produce a fairy-tale like effect that just begs to be captured for all time. Time Tours provides the indispensable back-up and know-how that only knowledgeable Icelanders can provide. From planning and logistics, to lodging and transportation, the team at Time Tours are experts at ferreting out the best of Iceland’s 48 www.icelandictimes.com 49 www.icelandictimes.com REYKJANES

To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Whale Watching

ReykjanesMaking the Most of Your Holiday in Iceland

rom its scenic home base right on the marina in the town of Keflavík, Whale WatchingF Reykjanes offers exciting whale watching trips in the waters surrounding the Reykjanes Peninsula. Located just seven minutes from Keflavik International Airport, the company offers a pickup and drop-off service to and from the airport and should you happen to be on a stopover, Whale Watching Reykjanes’ short 2 to 4 hour tours allow you to make the most of your time in Iceland.

Summer is prime-time for whale watching... and more The waters surrounding the peninsula are surface and adorable puffins sometimes The hunt in on – prime summer feeding grounds for the come within metres of the vessel, to the for the Northern Lights many whale species that come to Iceland delight of all onboard. Bird lovers will From September to mid-April is Northern every year. White Beaked dolphins, Minke enjoy the noisy chatter of the many seabird Lights hunting season and Whale Watching whales, Humpbacks, and occasionally varieties nesting in the lava cliffs along the Reykjanes gears up for this exciting event Orcas can be seen. Fin and Sei whales are coastline, including guillemots, arctic skua, every year by using all the technologically often seen feeding and playing on the water’s gannets, and others. advanced tools available to track these awe- 52 www.icelandictimes.com inspiring lights. Knowledgeable driver/ guides lead the way, filling you in on the science behind this natural phenomenon, and helping you adjust your cameras for optimum shots. If you don’t have a professional camera at hand, your guide will be happy to take a photo of you and the Northern Lights when they appear which you can then upload to your own social restaurant will be happy to clean and cook media site or cloud storage. your fish when you return to shore, should you so desire. Sea Angling Tours Whether you have just arrived, are Whale Watching Reykjanes offers an preparing to leave or are on a stopover, a exceptional short-duration fishing trip when tour with Whale Watching Reykjanes is you can try your hand at fishing for your the brilliant way begin or end your holiday supper! With all the equipment supplied, in Iceland. -EMV you sail out to some of the best fishing spots in the area with an expert guide with you Whale Watching Reykjanes all the way, offering tips and techniques Grófin • 260 Reykjanesbæ to help you land your catch. Catfish, cod, +354-779-8272 haddock, mackerel and pollack are the www.whalewatchingreykjanes.is most commonly caught species and a local [email protected] 53 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

The last musician to play there was Mugison, a popular singer from Ísafjörður, and they have other local legends lined up for Seaman’s Sunday, which is celebrated in style in Grindavík. It is a small venue, n the fishing town of Grindavík, a the mood, as the menu offers a little bit so any concert there is an intimate affair, dark brown, cabin-style house hosts of everything. one that musicians often enjoy as much as Ithe Fish House Bar & Grill. In front of There are barrels under the bar, and the guests. the restaurant there are the remains of a with the dark brown wood, this could Grindavík is located on the Reykjanes whale’s skull that washed up on shore easily be the setting to an American peninsula, close to both Keflavik Airport many years ago. The logo is a fish skeleton Western film. However, some of the and the Blue Lagoon so it is easy to and a colourful plaque is adorned with the tables are surrounded by aquariums and include a stop at Fish House Bar & Grill poem “Eat fish and live long. Eat fish and the fish-skin art on the benches serves in your schedule, either when you land love strong”. as a firm reminder that, indeed, you are or after you bathe in the Blue Lagoon. Their most popular dish is fish and in Iceland, a country where fishing and Whether you’re in the mood for fish & chips. They have gained a reputation tourism are the primary sectors of the chips, or a dinner date with live music; on Trip Advisor for having incredibly economy. Fish House Bar & Grill has it all. -JG fresh fish. This makes perfect sense since As is often the case in small towns, they are only 100 metres away from the this restaurant doubles as a bar, and as a Fish HouseVatnshellir Bar & GrillCave Hafnargata 6 - 240 Grindavík harbour, even offering guided walks music venue. They have live concerts on +354 426-9999 there for guests who want to meet the Thursdays in summer, which have been [email protected] www.fishhouse.is fishermen or look at the fishing boats. well attended by both locals and tourists. This proximity to the harbour makes it very easy for them to fetch more fresh fish if they need to—as was the case recently, when their pan-fried arctic char became the most ordered dish of the day. Customers often ask if they offer anything else, aside from fish, and the owner points out that it is also a steakhouse and everyone should remember that steak is indeed on the menu. They also offer a variety of hamburgers, lamb chops and langoustine. One can choose the food by

54 www.icelandictimes.com an interest in the geosciences will have a wealth of opportunities to explore ancient lava fields, bubbling mud pools, steam vents, craters, volcanic fissures, not to mention the The Town of amazing variety of sea birds that populate the nearby cliffs.

Home base Grindavík It goes without saying that Grindavík Over the hills and not far away offers visitors a variety of options for accommodation—from modern camping GrindavíkHiding in plain sight one capacity or another. The large fishing facilities, to cosy guesthouses and quiet If you love exploring new places and harbour is second only to Reykjavík. Here hotels. For eating out, there is something especially those little advertised spots that visitors can witness the fish being landed on to suit every budget—from food trucks you had no idea even existed, the fishing the docks and sample fresh fish dishes served and fast food joints to high-end fine dining town of Grindavík is for you. Located just up by the many fine restaurants that take full establishments. The local supermarket is 20 minutes from Keflavik International advantage of their proximity to the ocean. well stocked with everything you’ll need Airport and 40 minutes from downtown for doing a spot of home cooking. Relax in Reykjavík, the village lies just beyond the Reykjanes UNESCO the town’s geothermal pool, send postcards mountains that serve as a backdrop to the Global Geopark home from the local post office or visit the Blue Lagoon. Who knew? Drive past the Besides the obvious advantage of having Icelandic Saltfish Museum and learn all lagoon; between the mountains and in the Blue Lagoon right on it’s doorstep, about Grindavik’s illustrious past. just 5 minutes or less, you have arrived in Grindavík is also perfectly situated All in all, Grindavík makes for an Grindavík! for those who come to the Reykjanes attractive and convenient home away Peninsula to witness the geothermal and from home while exploring the Reykjanes The Blue Lagoon’s Home Town volcanic activity that the area is known for. Peninsula. -EMV Despite its small town feel, Grindavík boasts Designated a UNESCO Global Geopark Grindavík a relatively large population of just over in 2015, the peninsula is home to many Vikurbraut 62 3000 inhabitants, many of whom can be important geological formations, many of 240 Grindavík [email protected] found working in the fishing industry in which can be found nowhere else in the www.visitgrindavik.is world. With 55 geosites to visit, those with

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try the silica supplement from geoSilica. One bottle lasted me for one month and after about 2 weeks I was starting geoSilica to see a significant difference in skin, Local Supplement hair and nails. I decided to take another good session and bought bottles for two Promotes Health months and the results were outstanding!” The local company combines a healthy, youthful appearance. There Meanwhile, Anna Guðmundsdóttir minerals with pure Icelandic water, are reports that silica could boost your shared: “I broke my hip badly 10 months which has many health benefits. immune system, help maintain bone ago and also broke both of my wrists 2 health, balance hormones and stimulate years ago. I’ve been taking your Silica eoSilica is an Iceland-based company metabolism. Silica can also improve joint Supplement now for eight months and that utilises natural raw materials function, promote healthy digestion, and after 2-3 months, I found immediately a foundG in Iceland to produce high-quality help keep your heart healthy. large difference in me and now I hardly health products. The company, which feel that I have ever broken anything.” started as a university spin-off project New Products geoSilica’s products are available for that went from R&D to product in just geoSilica has developed three new products. purchase on their webshop at www.geosilica. three years, focuses on creating products geoSilica Recover is a combination of is and in shops around Iceland. -JG incorporating Iceland’s geothermal water. minerals for oral intake made from 100% The company’s first product is a highly natural colloidal silica and magnesium geoSilica Iceland pure silica supplement in the form of citrate in pure Icelandic water for muscles Grænásbraut 506, extremely small silica particles in clean and nerves. geoSilica Renew combines 235 Reykjanesbær +354 571 3477 ground water. geoSilica developed a silica, zinc and copper in pure Icelandic [email protected] unique two-step production process. First, water for hair, skin & nails, and geoSilica www.geosilica.is the silica concentration in the separated Repair consists of silica and manganese to geothermal water is increased without promote bone and ligament health. changing the chemical composition of the water. In the second step, the geothermal Well-received by the Icelandic market water is gradually replaced by clean geoSilica has received positive feedback ground water from the area while keeping on their products. Here are two feedback the silica concentration consistent. No samples of the many that geoSilica chemicals of any kind are used in the received about their products: production or the product. “A few months after I had my younger daughter in November 2014, I began Benefits to the body to suffer from hair loss,” said Ásdís Silica supplements have clear benefits Geirsdóttir. “Along with that, I have very for the body. GeoSilica could help bad skin and nails. I was then advised to improve skin, hair and nails to garner

56 www.icelandictimes.com n most countries, the opportunity to A geological hotspot, the area offers such experience life in a fishing town has all a wide array of other tours, sights and butI disappeared. Not so in Iceland, where experiences that one holiday is not enough. Grindavík is one of the busiest. Situated Guesthouse Borg is an ideal place to a few kilometres from the world-famous stay, meet interesting people and enjoy Blue Lagoon, 20 minutes from Keflavík’s the facilities and fun the town offers. International airport and 40 minutes It caters for individuals, couples, families You’ll find a full kitchen where you can cook from the capital, the town is packed with and groups of up to 16 people in a clean, your own meals, a laundry and a computer history going back as far as the first settlers. modestly-priced homestay accommodation. to go online. Breakfasts are provided on a self-service basis. Owners Björk and Magnús make this a comfortable home from which to launch out to explore the area. -ASF Guesthouse Borg Borgarhrauni 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 895 8686 www.guesthouseborg.com [email protected]

It’s in the evenings and on weekends

Images © Gabriel Rutenberg that things really take off, though. It’s a small place, but packed with character. A piano in the corner is often pressed into use, making it a fun and inspiring evening. Whether you are a local or just visiting, you’ll feel at home. Bryggjan is open from 8am-11pm on alk down to Grindavík’s harbour and finding it, it is quickly becoming the café weekdays and from 9am-midnight or so you may see the nets. Then you’ll of choice in the area. Little wonder, as the -if there is a lot of action, on weekends. Wknow you’re there. Bryggjan’s main work help and friendliness of the owners is only Bryggjan can also be found on Facebook is repairing fishing nets and lines—nets matched by the delicious food they offer. by the name of “Bryggjan Kaffihús”. that would completely cover the nearby My suggestion: don’t leave without having a -ASF mountain and lines that would stretch way bowl of their soup. It’s really good. beyond Reykjavik, over 50km away! While I was there, one of the owners Bryggjan Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík This is a fishing town and the café is a was spending time with visiting tourists, +354 426 7100 fishermen’s café—though, with the growing explaining the area and showing them on [email protected] number of visitors from all over the world a map the best places to visit. www.kaffibryggjan.is

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Keflavik International irport is rowing AIsavia’s plans meet increasing tourism G needs ! eflavik International Airport, or KEF, is one of the fastest growing in Europe and has seen 28.6% annual Kexpansion since 2013. During the summer months, Isavia, which oversees Keflavik International Airport, reports that 25 airlines are flying to more than 80 destinations. Iceland is clearly having a moment; tourism is booming and travellers can’t get enough of the island’s natural wonders.

Increase in flights Flight numbers have grown very quickly. There has been a 260% increase since 2009, a challenge for all staff. There are hard working and positive staff members working for Isavia and the other companies providing services at the airport. It can be very demanding to maintain a high level of passenger satisfaction at a time of very rapid growth over several years. However, When arriving at KEF numerous eateries at KEF and, after passing it can be seen from the Airport Council Apart from its expansion, there are several through immigration, travellers can get International’s Airport Service Quality conveniences to enjoy at KEF. For instance, something to eat before going on their way surveys, that the airport staff work hard to travellers can sign into free wifi to let know and exploring Iceland’s natural wonders. For keep the very highest level of service, even friends and family that they have arrived instance, the airport is home to international under a lot of pressure. safely and to catch up on news. There are chains like Joe and the Juice and Dunkin 58 www.icelandictimes.com Donuts, as well as Ginger, which serves plenty of time to enjoy the shopping area. more, with prices almost 20% cheaper healthy food options. Before collecting their Travellers are welcome to sign back into than traditional downtown retail prices. baggage, travellers can also visit the Duty the free wifi and enjoy the many shops, The shops are both Duty Free and Tax Free shop, which is located in the same area where souvenirs and gifts to take home to Free for all passengers regardless of what as baggage claim. Everything from perfume family and friends can be bought. passport they hold or which country and candy to alcohol and skincare products they’re are flying to, or from. The shops are available, all tax- and duty-free. Shopping at KEF are also open day and night. That’s a nice Keep in mind that KEF is one of the touch from the Vikings! When Departing from KEF few airports in the world where all -JG Travellers are advised to arrive 2.5 hours retail, food and beverage outlets are duty before departure. If travelling with Icelandair, free for all passengers. You can find all Isavia WOW Air, Norwegian or Primera Air, the major Icelandic designers and high end Reykjavíkurflugvelli +354 424 4400 simple self check-in counters and bag international brands like Hugo Boss, Max www.isavia.is drops can be used. There should also be Mara, Gucci, Chrome Hearts and many 59 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Duty Free Iceland is tax- and duty-free and is conveniently open day and night. Shopping is available to arriving and departing passengers, regardless of origin or destination, and it carries all the common international brands and items, plus a Keflavik growing range of unique Icelandic products. Unique Icelandic spirits There is always a great selection of Icelandic duty-free wines and spirits in store, featuring local favourites like Brennivín, a clear, Duty Free unsweetened schnapps that is considered Duty Free Iceland provides s tourism to Iceland continues to be Iceland’s signature distilled beverage. to grow, it has fuelled demand Icelandic Mountain Vodka is a year-old a great shop window on for quality Icelandic products. product that started its adventure in the almost everything Icelandic Happily for travellers, Duty Duty Free shop in Keflavik. The gluten free from sweet treats to unique AFree Iceland provides a great shop brand, which is made with pure Icelandic window on almost everything Icelandic water, has grown over the past few months spirits to natural skincare from sweet treats to unique beers, wines and can now be found in eight different products and spirits to natural skincare products. countries and has received fantastic reviews

60 www.icelandictimes.com in the media. Supercall and The Spirit Business named the vodka both ‘Top trends to look for in 2017’ and ‘One of the best newcomers in vodka 2016’. The Icelandic Mountain Vodka is distilled seven times so it feels extra smooth while still standing strong at a 40% alcohol level. Vor premium gin from Eimverk distillery is made with organic barley and is bursting with the flavours of the Icelandic countryside. Also from the Eimverk Distillery is Flóki, a handcrafted single malt. Its special taste comes from The award winning Reyka and Katla barley grown organically in volcanic soil vodkas are available as well as the tasty at the Arctic Circle. Reykjavik Distillery Birkir schnapps and Bjork liqueur, which incorporates local Icelandic ingredients are smooth and uniquely Icelandic. For into spirits perfectly. Their rhubarb and those interested in shots, Tópas and Opal juniper berry liqueurs capture the freshness Vodka shots are not to be missed. And and purity of Icelandic nature and offer a don’t forget about the beer—Duty Free new way to enjoy a distinct and much- carries brands such as Viking, Boli and the loved flavour in a cocktail or on its own. award-winning Egils Gull.

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premium organic beans from a range of resulted in a new concept that is marketed cocoa fields around the world and tailors here as BIOEFFECT® skin care (serum and its chocolate-making process to ensure that day cream). It nourishes and replenishes each variety of chocolate achieves its full skin cells, bringing a youthful glow to even potential. The only additions to the mix are the most stressed or sensitive skin, without raw cane sugar and, in the milk chocolate harmful chemical compounds. range, creamy Icelandic milk. Its design The scientists at Bioeffect won a Nobel conscious packaging makes this the ideal Prize for their work, and their company gift to bring home. offers a range of revolutionary biotech Another name to check out is Haflidi skin care products, including the recently Duty Free Iceland also carries a large Ragnarsson, one of the world’s top 100 introduced EFG Day Serum which selection of other beers, which have also chocolatiers and something of a purist in rejuvenates the skin and minimizes the earned many international awards. A wide terms of the mighty cocoa bean. He works appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. range of flavours is on offer, from numerous his magic to combine classic blends with A number of other companies use local smaller breweries, as well as larger companies. more exotic flavours of pistachio, passion Icelandic ingredients as well. fruit, star anise and even Earl Grey tea. Sóley Organic, for example, uses Sweet Iceland Freyja and Stefan B Chocolatier are hand-picked wild Icelandic herbs in their Confectionery is a big thing in Iceland, and among other popular brands that offer environmentally-friendly and preservative- when it comes to chocolate, the Icelandic sweets and liquorice that would guarantee free products. brand Noi Sirius is one to look for. The you a warm reception back home—if only Taramar uses Icelandic seaweed and company, established in 1920, is the largest you can resist temptation during your flight! organic herbs in its pure, safe skincare confectionery manufacturer in Iceland. products. It produces a tasty line of chocolates, Quality Skincare Products Villimey specialises in biological salves encompassing semi-sweet, bitter and milk Icelandic herbal oils and cosmetics sit next to and ointments made of Icelandic herbs in chocolate in a variety of shapes and sizes, international brands, offering health-giving products such as anti-aging facial oils, lip including the company’s well-known benefits from the country’s mountains, balms and muscle and joint creams. chocolate gift boxes. pristine valleys and hot springs. A recent The Purity Herbs brand produces natural Omnom is another local chocolate maker scientific breakthrough in Iceland, based skin care products including joint relief oils that is quite special. The company sources on 10 years of biotechnology research, has and volcanic body scrubs. 62 www.icelandictimes.com No discrimination The shops are both duty free and tax free for all passengers regardless of what passport you may hold or which country you are flying to or from and are open day and night, which is a nice touch from the Vikings! Whether you’re starting your holiday, stopping over, or concluding your trip, Duty Free Iceland will give you lasting warm memories of the Land of Fire and Ice. -JG Duty Free Iceland 235 Keflavik Airport +354 425 0410 [email protected] www.dutyfree.is

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WhereBest and when to watch birds in in Iceland Birdwatching op sites: You don’t need to go far to most famous birdwatching site in Iceland, birds. Few places offer better opportunities watch birds in Iceland as there are good however, is the Mývatn-Laxá area in north- than Iceland to see Pink-footed Goose, birdwatchingT sites almost anywhere, even in east Iceland, where more species of duck Long-tailed Duck, Ptarmigan, Gyr Falcon, central Reykjavík. Among the places most breed than anywhere else in Europe, 14 Red Phalarope, Red-necked Phalarope, regularly visited by overseas birdwatchers species in total, in addition to numerous are the Snæfellsnes peninsula in western other species. However, birds can be found Iceland, the vast sea-cliffs at Látrabjarg in throughout the country and the best areas the Westfjords, the Flói Nature Reserve in are often close to water. This is especially southern Iceland and the Vestmannaeyjar true in winter, when birdwatching on the archipelago off the south coast. Perhaps the coast is almost always more rewarding than inland. Many European birdwatchers are particular keen to see Iceland’s ‘Big Four’, i.e. Harlequin Duck, Barrow’s Goldeneye, Gyr Falcon and Brünnich’s Guillemot, all of which are relatively easy to find at the right time of year or in the right areas.

Other target species Iceland represents the southernmost limit of the breeding range for several High Arctic

64 www.icelandictimes.com Best in Birdwatching Glaucous Gull, Brünnich’s Guillemot and Coastal seas, especially off the southwest, spring-fed rivers, and so Iceland’s winter Snow Bunting. Red Phalarope, Gyr Falcon are relatively warm due to the influence of birdlife is quite varied. and White-tailed Eagle all enjoy special the Gulf Stream, while inland, some bodies protection and visiting a nesting site of these of water remain unfrozen throughout The origins of Iceland’s birds species is strictly prohibited. the winter due to geothermal springs or Iceland’s flora and fauna is largely European Another popular bird is the Atlantic (Western Palearctic) in origin. Several Puffin, which is best seen in the Westman species, however, have colonised the country Islands archipelago, the islands of from the west, and Iceland can therefore Breiðafjörður bay, the cliffs at Látrabjarg or said to be the meeting point of east and in Borgarfjörður eystri. west. Iceland furthermore marks the southern breeding limit for several species When they can be seen and the northern limit for several others

Birdwatching is an all-year activity in and, as such, is also the meeting point of Images by © Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson Iceland. The best time of year, in the view north and south. - JÓH of the author, is from mid-April to the end of June. Spring migration is at its peak from Jóhann Óli is President of BirdLife mid-April to mid-May, when the nesting Iceland and author of the Icelandic Bird season begins. This peaks in June, and Guide. Translation by Edward B. Rickson peters out in July. Autumn migration lasts from late July until the end of October.

65 www.icelandictimes.com WEST Iceland

There’s much more to West Iceland than the of adventure. Tours bring history to life as museums spectacular Snæfellsjökull, made famous by Jules and historical sites abound. Verne, gleaming white in the sunshine. The beauty For the outdoor enthusiasts, there is enough to and variety of Icelandic nature is everywhere. keep them busy all summer long. Horse riding tours Magnificent views overlooking mountains and are popular, as are hiking, fishing and golf. At the end glaciers, fertile regions, colourful birdlife, abundant of an active day, there are plenty of swimming pools rivers and lakes, fjords and bays, along with gushing and hot pots to relax in. Accommodation covers the geothermal activity. complete range from sleeping bag to hotel. But West Iceland is more than magnificent nature. The mystical Breiðafjörður bay, with its countless Land and history form an unbroken whole as the islands is home to all kinds of sea life and tours out setting for sagas like Sturlunga, Egil’s Saga, Eyrbyggja into the bay will visit islands covered in birds, with and Laxdaela, not to mention the rich folklore and tales some tours offering sea fishing.

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njoy Iceland’s sublime naturally- Powerful hot spring Experience Iceland’s heated waters while bathing in The water for the baths is heated by geothermal baths in West Iceland. Deildartunguhver, which is considered geothermal energy EKrauma, the newly opened bathing facility, Europe's most powerful hot spring. It in these soothing offers five relaxing natural baths, along provides 200 litres per second of hot with a cold tub, two soothing saunas and water at 100°C (212°F). To achieve the hot baths a relaxation room, where you can lounge perfect bathing temperature, Krauma by the fireplace while listening to calming mixes the hot water with cold water from music. This is the perfect way to experience Rauðsgil, which originates in the Ok Iceland’s renowned waters in a more glacier, Iceland’s smallest glacier. Visitors intimate setting than the more crowded can see Deildartunguhver next to the Blue Lagoon. baths, with its water bubbling up and splashing against bright green moss and jagged rocks. Seeing where the heated

Krauma Geothermal BathsExperience Iceland’s geothermal energy

in68 West Iceland www.icelandictimes.com water comes from adds to this unique West is best Visit Krauma experience. Be sure to keep your distance, Krauma is conveniently located in West Geology enthusiasts and spa lovers alike will though, to avoid being splashed if you get Iceland, where there are numerous enjoy a visit to Krauma. You can experience too close. attractions. Starting from Reykjavík, you nature from its core while bathing in these can make stops at the popular fishing unique geothermal baths in beautiful Important hot water source town of Akranes and climb to the top West Iceland. Make sure you pay a visit to Deildartunguhver is crucial to the comfort of its lighthouse for spectacular views, Krauma during your visit to Iceland. -JG of the region. Most of the water used for before continuing to Borgarnes to visit central heating in the West Iceland towns the Settlement Center to get a taste of Krauma Deildatunguhver, of Akranes and Borgarnes is taken from the infamous Sagas. In Reykholt, one of 310 Borgarbyggð Deildartunguhver. The hot water pipeline Iceland’s most notable historical sites, you www.krauma.is to Akranes is 64 kilometres long, which can stop at the Icelandic Goat Center is the longest in Iceland. It’s still about before visiting Snorrastofa, dedicated to 78-80°C when it reaches the town. Snorri Sturluson, one of the most famous and important figures in Icelandic literature. Snorri penned the Edda, Egil's Saga, and Heimskringla before his death in 1241. There is so much to see and do in West Iceland and Krauma is perfectly positioned.

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Where the Lambs Go Wild Look for the logo to know you have the genuine Icelandic article

he Icelandic lamb has roamed the little pollution, and farming is conducted characteristics long disappeared from their hills and mountains of Iceland ever in such a way that preserves the land relatives in neighbouring countries. sinceT Viking settlers first brought sheep for future use, incorporating aspects of In order to endure the cold and harsh to the country in the 9th century. Today’s social responsibility. The wool is a natural arctic climate the sheep have developed robust breed is a direct descendant of these product and only eco-friendly energy several specialities. The fleece is divided into first animals and genetically identical. sources are used in the manufacturing two layers, tog and thel. The tog consists Nowadays it wanders all summer long in process. of long and coarse hair with water repellent carefully defined extensive wild pastures qualities. The inner layer, thel, is shorter, in pristine mountainous landscapes The Wool softer and fluffier providing insulation and under strict agriculture regulations and a The Icelandic wool has kept the nation warmth. Combining the two provides an quality control scheme which protects the warm for more than 1100 years with the exceptional thread for producing clothing integrity of the breed. sheep originally brought here from Norway that gives warmth in spite of getting wet. by the settlers. The Icelandic wool made The fleece differs depending on the age of Sustainability it possible for the settlers to survive in the animal with lamb’s wool being the softest Iceland has always been a leader in the harsh northern climate. Due to the and finest but old rams bearing the roughest. sustainability, and remains one of the isolation and absence of contact with other The four basic colours of the Icelandic breed purest environments in the world. There's breeds, the Icelandic sheep still carries are black, white, shades of brown and grey 70 www.icelandictimes.com with numerous combinations and colour flavour which some have described as being Lamb’s restaurant partners promise to offer patterns, such as badgerface, grey and other similar to venison. Lamb can differ in taste only quality Icelandic Lamb on their menu, bi-colour variations. Although many will depending on where in the world it comes celebrating the diversity and uniqueness of admit to having a soft spot for various colour from and the conditions and environment Icelandic Lamb meat. patterns, the white wool is the most sought- the animals are reared in. In Iceland, the after, and therefore the most common sheep lambs live in outstanding conditions which, Look for the Logo colour in Iceland. of course, is very important. When you see our shield hanging in a restaurant you know that they offer excellent The Meat GMO Free lamb dishes, that does the Icelandic lamb Flavoured by the wild pastures and raised In October 2016, genetically modified great justice. You can also find the Icelandic without any hormones or antibiotics in a sheep feed was banned by the Minstry Lamb logo on wool and fleece products in pure environment, Icelandic lamb meat is of Industry and Innovations, making all Iceland. Only Icelandic design products wonderfully lean, flavourful and tender. The Icelandic lamb meat GMO Free. made out of Icelandic wool are tagged with distinctive taste is a result of the grass and the The close knitted relationship between the logo, making it easier to find authentic aromatic and spicy herbs on which the lambs farmers, restaurant owners and retailers is a Icelandic wool products. Look for our graze. The taste of Icelandic lamb is unique. key factor in maintaining the quality and logo while travelling in Iceland for a real The meat is dark, with a bit of a gamey integrity of the Icelandic lamb. Icelandic Icelandic Lamb experience. Photo By Peter Fischer 71 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

72 www.icelandictimes.com Eiríksstaðir, Dalir, West Iceland Step out of the present and into history

iríksstaðir, in Dalir, West Iceland is the built just 100 metres from the original Esite of the ancestral home of Erik the Red site and it is here that visitors can immerse and his son Leifur, also known as “Leif the themselves in an age gone by. Lucky”, who is believed to have been born here in the year 974. A hands on experience The story of the notorious Viking Erik, History comes alive as you warm yourself and his son Leifur, is recounted in the around the fire that blazes in the centre of Icelandic sagas which chronicle some of the longhouse. Guides dressed in Viking their more well known exploits. It is believed garb recount tales about Erik and Leifur that Leifur discovered the North American that are delivered in an informative, continent at L’Anse aux Meadows, (now humorous and fun way. Children are part of Nova Scotia) around the year 1000, enthralled by the lively storytelling and long before Christopher Columbus was are afterwards invited to try on Viking by appointment outside of those dates and born. Erik the Red is credited as being at costumes and practice with the swords hours. There are restrooms at the site, as the forefront of the settlement of Greenland, and shields. The longhouse is furnished well as a gift shop that carries hand knitted sometime between 980 and 990. with everyday items that a 10th century items, and a variety of interesting souvenirs. Viking family would have used, including Eiríksstaðir is located 150km north History comes to life a working loom, eating implements, and of Reykjavik, 1 hour from Borgarnes, The ‘living museum’ at Eiríksstaðir is ornately carved wooden beds. Built 10 minutes from Buðardalur and a 10 located on the very site where Erik’s family primarily of turf, driftwood and stone, minute drive from road 60 that leads to once lived. Archaeological research at using period tools and techniques, the the Westfjords. -EMV Eiríksstaðir in the mid-20th century and longhouse is an exact replica based Eiríksstaðir again between 1997 and 1999 unearthed on archaeological research which is Haukadalur Valley by road 586 371 Budardalur the remains of a 10th century Viking fascinating in and of itself. +354 661 0434 longhouse. Ruins are still visible but a Eiríksstaðir is open every day from 9.00 www.eiriksstadir.is [email protected] reconstruction of the longhouse has been to 18.00, from 1st June to 31st August or 73 www.icelandictimes.com WESTFJORDS Iceland Iceland To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 Westfjords Iceland

Hrafnseyri BirthplaceThe man who laid the foundation of Iceland´sof Jónindependence Sigurðsson and sovereignty

small, very remote farm, on Today, the farm is a museum, a testament answer. It is located on the north slopes a mountainside almost at the to the man who brought freedom to his of Arnarfjörður, surrounded by scenes of end of the world; the home nation. However, this is no dead memorial great natural beauty, including Iceland’s of two men who served their but rather a living extension of the lives of most beautiful waterfall, the 100m high country, separated by 6 centuries. A Viking both these great men, each a hero in his Dynjandi (Thunderer) waterfall, often chieftain in the late 12th century and a time, taking their work forward in new also called ‘The Bride’s Veil’. Hiking Ayoung scholar who was later to become ways whilst enshrining the values and trails abound in the almost-untouched known as the ‘Father of the Nation’. achievements they made. landscape of mountains, fjords, valleys and Hrafn Sveinbjarnarson was a Viking In 1944, Jón’s birthday had been chosen cliffs where wildlife is plentiful. Both the leader who travelled to England, France as the birthday of Iceland as a nation, in remoteness and peace of the fjord provide and to Italy, where he studied to become recognition of the key role he played in a good opportunity for anyone to wishing a physician in Salerno. He returned to bringing its freedom and independence contemplate their role in life. become a popular leader in the West from foreign rule, becoming a nation In 1829, when Jón Sigurðsson was 18 Fjords, only to be assassinated by one he in its own right. It is celebrated each years old, he left the farm, first moving to had helped. He lived on the farm in Eyri, year as Iceland’s National Day. On the Reykjavík before moving to Copenhagen to which he gave his name. 17th June, 2011, Iceland celebrated the to become a student in 1833. An upright Six centuries later, from this same little 200th birthday of their most famous and forthright man, he had the calm farm, came a young man, the son of a freedom fighter, who fought with words authority of a leader. He was able to pastor, who was to change the destiny and wisdom, as opposed to the guns and converse with king and commoner alike of Iceland. Hrafnseyri has become bullets favoured by most governments – a trait that won him much respect synonymous with Jón Sigurðsson, the and revolutionaries alike. The President and support as he argued, using his man who, without a shot being fired or a of Iceland visited Hrafnseyri to open knowledge of the historical archives as his man being killed, brought Iceland from the celebrations marking, not only Jón platform, to justify his claim for Icelandic servitude to the Danish crown to internal Sigurðsson’s birth but the rebirth and independence. This was a time when self-rule with a rekindled self-respect. reopening of the museum dedicated to revolutionary fervour was sweeping the his memory on the same spot where he western world. Independence movements was born. in Germany, France and the USA provided This year, 2018, marks another inspiration to the students in Copenhagen. anniversary. It is the centenary of Iceland’s Jón sought self-rule for Iceland sovereignty, received from Denmark in under the Danish crown. Through his 1918, thanks to Jón and his supporters annual writings, he kept his supporters whom he led in their struggle for the in Iceland informed. In 1851, a new country’s freedom. Danish government sought to annex Why would anyone want to live in Iceland, making it merely another district such an inhospitable spot? The road of Denmark. The Alþing (the Icelandic linking it with the rest of the West Fjord parliament), which had become an towns in the north is often impassable advisory body on Icelandic matters, under in winter. The rest of the year offers an Jón’s leadership boldly resisted these 76 www.icelandictimes.com attempts. Despite Danish warships and revolutions, in which many were tortured, The Viking chieftain, Hrafn military presence in the harbour, force killed or maimed in the battle for change. Sveinbjarnarson, was willing to brave many was not used and a stalemate existed for Although Iceland received its perils to travel through different countries, a decade, during which Jón continued to sovereignty in 1918, it wasn’t until 1944 listening to new ideas, experiencing argue so successfully that it became an that it became totally independent, the different cultures and then bringing the accepted fact that Iceland should rule itself. foundation for that independence and best to help his countrymen. If one remote A committee was set up in Denmark, national identity having been laid by Jón farm can produce two such leaders, there on which Jón served. He delivered his own Sigurðsson. The museum at Hrafnseyri is must be something very valuable to learn report, in which he said, that the Danish a testament to his life and legacy, giving a from it! Visitors today can stay in a variety constitutional government had no right clear insight into his early years, through of accommodations in the nearby town to rule over Iceland, because there the chapel and the replicas of the of Þingeyri. The road over the mountain never had existed any contract farm buildings. The museum is fine to travel from Spring to Autumn. between it and the Icelandic was renovated in 2011, with Refreshments are provided in the replica people. There had been a dramatic new presentation turf house – delicious home-made cakes, a contract between the designed by Basalt waffles and jam, with coffee that make it Icelanders and the Danish architects, who designed the most popular café in the area! king, but when the king the Blue Lagoon’s new This special experience is augmented by abdicated his power in 1848 structures. The museum other locally produced items, along with and the monarchy became uses its facilities to continue souvenirs that will provide a constant constitutional, the king to educate and provide a reminder of this farm for heroes! A had also abdicated his power unique setting for conferences unique feature of the farm is its old chapel, over Iceland, which was entitled and courses run in cooperation which is fast becoming a hot favourite to become a fully sovereign state like with Jón Sigurðsson’s Professor’s seat at for couples wanting to get married in a Denmark. This was then enshrined in the the University of Iceland, as well as other very special location! It is also the venue Danish-Icelandic Act of Union, signed on Icelandic and foreign universities. for the conferences and courses held 1st December, 1918. In addition, Jón also Visiting lecturers from Denmark, USA, there during summer months, turning demanded five times as much as the Danish Canada and the UK have taught innovative the museum into a forward-thinking committee was considering, claiming courses, such as the 2009 Conference on university, building on the educational reparations for damage done in the past. National Identity in a Globalised World. foundation that led to both its former His motive was apparently to buy time, as Provocative questions are asked with a famous inhabitants leaving such a mark Iceland was not ready to stand on its own view to stimulating debate and argument on the country’s history. either economically or politically and he in order to provide a platform for change, Interested couples, students and course wanted it be understood based on discussion rather providers should contact the museum’s that the money was given as than violence, whilst curator, Valdimar J. Halldórsson. -ASF a right, not a gift. addressing questions that Through his wisdom, have no easy answers. For The museum is open in 2018 from 1st diplomacy, eloquent example, “What place do June – 8th September daily from 11:00 – argument and Godly national heroes have in 18.00 or by appointment with Valdimar. conviction, Jón was a cosmopolitan world?” able to bring a peaceful “What is the place of National Identity in a Multi-Cultural Hrafnseyri transition to self-rule at 471 Þingeyri a time when most other Society?” Jón Sigurðsson’s tel:+354 456 8260 European countries were legacy is very relevant in a [email protected] www.hrafnseyri.is suffering violently turbulent modern world. 77 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

he arctic fox is an enchanting creature. of the fox and the hunters themselves, this At some point in the distant past, it last containing, for example, objects and Ttravelled across the frozen sea and, in spite of personal accounts from fox hunters. Other the inhospitable climate, found a home on material is presented through written text this small, isolated island. The arctic fox is or video and, of course, there are quite a Iceland’s only native terrestrial land mammal few stuffed animals. Visitors are guided and has been the subject of curiosity by through the exhibition, which is one of a scholars and lay people alike. For this reason, kind in Iceland and open all year round. The Arctic Fox Centre was established in the The Centre is a non-profit business, village of Súðavík in 2010, since the fox is involved in research and studies on commonly found in the area. the population of the fox. They also offer guidance on arctic fox tours in Exhibition of the first native collaboration with tourist offices as well as The Centre is located in the oldest house believing in and supporting ecotourism in in Súðavík, a 120 year-old farm that was Iceland. renovated by the local authorities and is A nice little café at the Centre sells home- situated between what locals call the ‘old baked pastries, light courses and wonderful village’, destroyed in a devastating avalanche coffee, which guests can enjoy out on the in 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in its patio overlooking the beautiful mountains stead at a safe distance from the mountain. and the sea. The café has open Internet The Centre serves as an educational access. On Friday nights, live music is and cultural hub and offers an extensive performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sit exhibition on the arctic fox as well as down for a drink in the cosy atmosphere. regularly exhibiting local arts and crafts. Its The Centre also has a small boutique selling main aim however, is to collect and preserve specially made souvenirs and craftwork. everything of importance regarding the - HP arctic fox and its long-lasting relationship Artic Fox Centre with man as, surprisingly, fox hunting is the Eyrardalur • 420 Súðavík oldest paid occupation in Iceland. +354 456 4922 [email protected] The exhibition is divided into three www.melrakki.is sections: the biology of the fox, the hunting 78 www.icelandictimes.com 79 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Enjoy the Culture ofExplore thethe region’s history Westfjords at the Westfjords Heritage Museum while visiting the town.

he Westfjords are simply beautiful, sun-dried salted fish and its significance with endless coastlines, jaw-dropping to the town. Guests are encouraged to Tbird cliffs and gorgeous mountainous view the newest exhibition about Karítas landscapes and fjords. Ísafjörður, the Skarphéðinsdóttir, a worker’s rights unofficial capital of the Westfjords, is a pioneer who suffered from the unfortunate quaint town, at the foot of picturesque circumstances that were common in mountains, built on a curving spit of land Iceland in those days, being sold by her extending out into the fjord, with shops family at the age of 16. After years of a and restaurants in its small downtown life in slavery, Karítas fought for better area and a bustling harbour. A short drive working conditions and to improve the outside town, you’ll find more towering lives of the working class. This exhibition mountains, interesting rock formations provides an interesting insight into this and more sheep than people. It is a good strong leader who overcame so much and base for exploring the Westfjords and worked to create great change in Iceland. is also the cultural hub of the region, with a thriving music and art scene and Ideal place to spend time interesting museums. There’s so much to see and do in Ísafjörður, including visiting eclectic shops, Fascinating Heritage Museum exploring the harbour area and museum An ideal introduction to the region’s history grounds. For dinner, consider a visit to is the Westfjords Heritage Museum, which Tjöruhúsið, a family-run restaurant that pays homage to the past culture, society, serves delicious fresh fish in inventive and the traditional methods of fishing. ways. The rustic wood interior is cosy, the Equipment and examples of fishing boats service top-notch, and the menu consists used in the old days are on display. The of the catch of the day—haddock, cod, museum is housed in an 18th century salmon, or other fish, served with great building, one of the oldest buildings in care and presented in a variety of delicious Iceland, that sets the tone for the exhibits. dishes with fresh veggies and sauces. The Byggðasafn Vestfjarða Neðstikaupstaður, There are also displays of ship models, restaurant is conveniently located next to 400 Ísafjörður informative documentaries to view and the museum and a great way to end your 354 456 3291 www.nedsti.is a special exhibition on the processing of day in Ísafjörður. -JG

80 www.icelandictimes.com Culture and natureÞingeyri is an ideal base in inthe Westfjords, the with museums in town and nature nearby. Westfjords

ingeyri is a tiny village in the scenic From the Sagas to the modern day Spectacular nature nearby ÞWestfjords that is home to fewer than History enthusiasts love Þingeyri for Dynjandi Falls are located at the base 300 residents. The village is a must-visit its place in the Sagas. The Saga of Gísli of the Arnarfjörður fjord and they are for those interested in the history of the takes place mostly in the Westfjords and likened to a bridal veil. The waterfall is blacksmithing trade in Iceland, and for tells the story of Gísli Súrsson, a famous 30 metres wide at the highest point and those curious about the Sagas. Þingeyri is warrior, who lived at Hóll in Haukadalur, 60 metres wide at its lowest. Dynjandi is also close to one of the most photographed a short distance from Þingeyri in the largest waterfall in the Westfjords and waterfalls in Iceland, the tiered Dynjandi Dýrafjörður. A group of Icelanders visiting the chute makes for an enjoyable waterfall, and has spectacular seaside views founded The West Vikings association in little hike. Also, close to the village are of the Dýrafjörður fjord. There’s much to Þingeyri in 2003, with the aim of making the Westfjords Alps, which are the tall see and do in and around the village. the places where the Saga of Gísli took and pointy mountain range between place more accessible to visitors. The Dýrafjörður and Arnarfjörður. The range Visit a century old blacksmith workshop association has established a festival site is striking since most mountains in the The Westfjords is a region rich in culture, in the old Icelandic style at Þingeyri: a Westfjords are flat topped as a result of along with breathtaking beauty. For a circle has been constructed of sea-washed glaciers. Kaldbakur is the tallest of them window into Þingeyri’s past, travellers stones and turf, with seating for over 300 and, at 998 metres tall, it’s the tallest can visit the old Blacksmith's Workshop, people, with a long hearth in the centre. mountain in the Westfjords region. which was founded by Gudmundur J Sigurdsson in 1913 and is now part of the Westfjords Heritage Museum. The machine shop was one of the first of its kind in Iceland and was leading in the development of the blacksmithing trade. Today, the museum includes all the original machines and blacksmith equipment, which are still in their almost original state. This is a living museum, where visitors can experience the old machine shop as if time had stood still.

Consider a stop at Þingeyri during your next visit to the picture-perfect Westfjords.

81 www.icelandictimes.com NORTH Iceland

To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

ExploreStar Travel operates tours thein the north ofNorth Iceland SPECIAL DISCOUNT: Get 10% discount with promotional CODE: STARTIME

orth Iceland is full of natural or ‘dark castles’. It comprises interesting pearls and hidden gems and is a rock formations jutting out of the ground, treat to all those that make the resembling a fort from an ancient city. Njourney. Akureyri, which is often referred The black lava pillars were born from a to as the capital of the north, is the perfect collapsed lava tube from a large volcanic place to start your trip in north Iceland. eruption more than 2,000 years ago. Star Travel, a small family-run company Another popular sight is the Krafla lava based in Akureyri, offers numerous tours field, which is home to Víti (Hell), one from Akureyri and Reykjahlíð in Mývatn. of the best-known craters in Iceland. Víti is huge, about 300 metres in diameter, Roaring waterfalls exposing interesting formations that There is so much to see and do in the north, resulted from lava flows and water over and Star Travel has it covered, including the ages. The area is another reminder trips to two spectacular waterfalls. In a of how active this island has been, and country full of spectacular waterfalls, what continues to be, with spectacular eruptions an unforgettable experience. For travellers sets Goðafoss apart is the sheer breadth of resulting in the reshaping of the land. based in Reykjavík who want to see a bit of the tumbling falls. White water surges over Meanwhile, Námaskarð is a big draw for the countryside, Star Travel has a 4x4 jeep the rim, thundering down, crashing into tourists because of its sheer otherworldly tour of the Golden Circle, where guests can rocks and the river below. atmosphere. The yellow and brown colours see Gullfoss waterfall, the bubbling Geysir of the clay along with the gray mud pools region and Þingvellir national park. Magnificent Mývatn look like a movie scene from another planet. Star Travel excursions are worth adding Mývatn is one of the fastest growing to your To Do list when you visit Iceland! tourist destinations in the north. Gorgeous The beautiful south -JG landscapes, activities along Lake Mývatn, Star Travel has not forgotten about South and the soothing Mývatn Nature Baths, Iceland. The company operates whale Star Travel which have the same type of milky blue watching tours off the coast of Reykjavík, Stórholti 12, 603 Akureyri water as the famous Blue Lagoon in the as well as Northern Lights tours in the +354 867 7072 [email protected] south, lure travellers. Star Travel runs tours winter. Catching a glimpse of the Northern www.startravel.is/ to Dimmuborgir, which means ‘dark cities’ Lights flickering and dancing in the sky is

84 www.icelandictimes.com AIn thecco heart of Town Akureyri kureyri, known as the capital of the North, We want them to come back to a warm Ais a charming and tightly knit community and welcoming place and to experience with a population that barely surpasses 18,000 it as their home away from home”, says residents at the last count. Helga Björk. In spite of its small size, the town centre boasts a Catering to every budget surprisingly wide variety Acco’s moderately priced guesthouse has 13 of shops, cafés, fine- rooms in various sizes and formats, some dining restaurants, art with private and some with shared bath, and galleries and musical an adjoining separate communal kitchen for Helga Björk happenings, all within a those who wish to do their own cooking. Eiríksdóttir very small radius and within If you are travelling on a shoestring, Acco walking distance of one of offers a neat and clean hostel with bunk beds, Akureyri’s latest additions in accommodation, Convenience, comfort and style shared bathrooms and its own communal aptly named, Acco. Located right on the town square in the kitchen. city centre, Acco offers a range of options On the ground floor, the welcoming and A warm and welcoming place to stay including eight roomy, fully furnished friendly Café Berlin, with its bistro-style Owner Helga Björk Eiríksdóttir goes to apartments in varying styles. One- to menu offers delicious, light and fresh meals great lengths to make sure things are running four-bedroom apartments are available as for breakfast and lunch. Start your morning smoothly and guests are well cared for. “We well as a 2-bedroom superior apartment off right with a cup of Café Berlin’s excellent are a family-run operation and want to offer with its outstanding contemporary décor coffee and celebrate your successful day of something for everyone, so our accommodation and attention to detail, such as bathrobes, sightseeing when you return with a round of options are as different as they are many. Most blackout curtains, washer and dryer, and a drinks. Skál! -EMV of our apartments and rooms have just been fully equipped kitchen with everything you recently renovated in a modern Scandinavian need to stay in style. Acco Accommodation Skipagata 4 • 600 Akureyri style. Spacious and relaxing are two keywords “Our guests are out all day long exploring +354 547 2226 that describe our concept, so that guests can the stunning land and seascapes as well as [email protected] www.acco.is really enjoy their stay.” the countryside that surrounds Akureyri. 85 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

It’sOne year in the lifea of the birdsBird’s in the Lake Mývatn area Life ývatn is known to birders throughout eggs and at the end of April the Horned the world for its rich birdlife, Grebe starts its magnificent courtship particularlyM its abundance of breeding display. wildfowl. No other site in Europe can boast In May, the elaborate display of numerous such a diverse range of breeding ducks as the species of ducks reaches its climax. May and Mývatn area. Fourteen of the sixteen species June are the best months for birdwatching. of duck which breed in Iceland can be found Nature is recovering from the long, hard here; the Common Eider and Common winter and the birds are extremely active Shelduck are coastal species and are therefore A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young and conspicuous. The countryside is filled rarely seen at Mývatn. Three other species of with the sound of bird song, courtship and wildfowl, Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose Different habitat lively displays, the sun barely dips below the and Pink-footed Goose, also breed in the The Mývatn area offers you a wide range horizon and the symphony of nature seems area. Two species of divers and one grebe of excellent bird watching sites. Bird life endless. Drakes are particularly impressive breed: Great Northern Diver, Red-throated and bird habitats are extremely diverse, at this time of year, with Long-tailed Duck Diver and Horned Grebe. Their habits typified in this region by highland oases, and Barrow’s Goldeneye fighting vigorously resemble those of ducks in many ways, at lakes of global importance for birds, rich for mates and territory. Harlequin Ducks least during the summer. birch woods and scrubland. Wetlands and hurtle along the River Laxá and the Great small lakes are frequently encountered and Northern Diver can be heard wailing out moorlands are found widely. on the lake.

Spring The Remaining Months In April, as spring arrives and the ice on In July, everything seems to calm down the lake melts, migratory birds flock to and the adult birds get on with quietly Iceland. Fields, ponds, lakes and rivers are feeding and raising their young. The drakes swamped with birds arriving from Europe moult and group. Drake Harlequin Ducks and Africa. The first breeders, like Raven and Common Scoters head for the sea. A pair of Red-necked Phalaropes and Gyr Falcon, have already laid their In August, the birds gather for

86 www.icelandictimes.com Pair of Harlequins on the fast flowing water of River Laxá migration and those that travel the of waders breed in the area, including abundance of insects provides rich longest distances, like the Whimbrel Black-tailed Godwit, and several more pickings for them and other birds in the and the Arctic Tern, leave for their species are seen regularly. area. Birch scrubland and woodlands are wintering grounds. Mývatn is by now Black-headed Gull is the most home to Iceland’s typical forest birds, swarming with ducks if the breeding common gull in the Mývatn area and like the Redwing, Common Redpoll season has been successful. the only species which breeds in any and Eurasian Wren, for example. Snow September is the main migration month Bunting and Northern Wheatear nest in in north-east Iceland but geese and some lava fields, stone walls and craters. ducks and passerines do not leave until Other land birds are the resident Gyr October. However, numerous birds remain Falcon and Rock Ptarmigan, and the in the area during the winter. At Mývatn migrant Merlin and Short-eared Owl. and River Laxá some areas remain open all winter and attract resident Whooper Midges Swans, Barrow´s Goldeneyes, Goosanders The midges at Mývatn (which means and Mallards. Even a few Harlequins can Midge Lake in Icelandic) and the River sometimes be found on the river in winter. Laxá are the mainstay of the local birds’ existence. If the midges were absent, there would be far fewer birds. The larvae of Other birds A drake Harlequin Duck Waders often nest in or close to rich, non-biting chironomid midges live in the vegetated marshland, which is a common number. Lesser Black-backed Gulls and lake itself; they develop in the mud on the habitat in the Mývatn area. They take Great Black-backed Gulls are summer lake bed and live on diatoms and decaying Images by © jóhann Óli Hilmarsson advantage of the abundance of midges visitors to the lake. The Arctic Tern is a organic matter. Black fly larvae, on the and can often be seen on the shores common breeder but it does not breed in other hand, attach themselves to rocks in of the lake, picking up insects which large colonies at Mývatn. Arctic Skuas the River Laxá and feed on passing debris. have drifted ashore. One of the most breed on the surrounding moorlands. Only the black fly bites; chironomids simply characteristic birds of the Mývatn area is The varied habitats around Mývatn irritate people, livestock and birds by flying the Red-necked Phalarope. Eight species attract a range of passerines and the into their noses, eyes and ears. - JÓH

87 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Akureyri

Heartof the North

he dozen inhabitants in 1786, clinging to the side of Eyjafjörður, Iceland’s longest fjord, probably never imagined their brave struggle would ultimately result in a town of 18,000 people with all the services of a Tmajor city. Akureyri is not as big as any of the world’s cities but it provides all the features and services expected of a big city in a of crisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—at It has well over 20 restaurants, covering very compact form, so that everything is the peak of their cycle—makes a holiday here both Icelandic and international cuisine, available within a short distance. memorable. with top chefs who create their own Take, for instance, winter activities like innovative cuisine. Cafés, each with their skiing. The family-friendly slopes are under Cultural Centre of the North individual speciality abound, while local 10 minutes from the airport and the hotels. When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it micro-breweries and farms offering food Likewise the horse riding tours, boat trips, bird all: museums, art galleries, international tasting are a fascinating addition to the watching—to name a few—are all so close, exhibitions, conference facilities, music food scene. you can almost touch them. You name it, it’s venues, music of all genres, theatre and For groups and individuals, Akureyri offers close-by. The weather, with its combination cinemas showing the latest films. such a wide range of activities, events and 88 www.icelandictimes.com opportunities, it maximises the time available. See the Sights choose a longer route over the highlands if There are a multitude of tours covering every Akureyri is also a service base for many of you wish to turn your trip into a journey interest from flying to caving, from fishing the most important tourist destinations rich with sights and natural beauty. to the Hidden People, walking to whale- in North Iceland. From here, you can visit The city bus service is free in town. watching. Mývatn, Dettifoss—the most powerful Naturally, every common form of transport waterfall in Europe, the island of Hrísey, is available: car, bike, boat, horse, ATV, plane Sports of all kinds with its powerful healing energy and rentals. Every type of accommodation is also Sport activities are very popular in the North Grímsey, straddling the Arctic Circle, see on hand, from 4-star hotels to camp sites. and many sports are represented in this volcanoes and boiling mud pools and, in fact, -ASF dynamic community. reach all the pearls of the north in under 2 The geothermally–heated swimming pools, hours. Akureyri has it all and an with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are open— outgoing friendly welcome, too. and very popular—all year round. Easy Access The Arctic Open Golf championship is Flights from both Keflavik international played on the most northerly 18-hole course and Reykjavík airports take just 40 min. in the world, just outside the city under both Scheduled buses drive twice a day between Akureyrarstofa Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri snow–covered mountains and the midnight Reykjavík and Akureyri. The trip from +354 450 1050 sun. You can hire clubs if you need them and Reykjavík to Akureyri takes about 6 hours, [email protected] www.visitakureyri.is relax in the club house afterwards. although in the summer time you can 89 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Birdwatching inBirding sitesparadise around Lake Mývatn

ývatn is a shallow and highly fertile The same is true of the Great Northern winter the water often gives off a lot of steam lake with powerful fresh water Diver, which also breeds at Mývatn. owing to the presence of geothermal heat springsM and extensive areas of geothermal Other species which breed at Mývatn and it sometimes makes for an impressive heat. Invertebrates thrive in the lake and include Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose, sight. In winter it is one of the main sites they provide the food for the huge number Pink-footed Goose, Red-throated Diver, for dabbling ducks at Mývatn; in summer of birds living in the area. Horned Grebe, Gyr Falcon, Merlin, Rock all species of dabbling duck which breed Mývatn is one of the best known Ptarmigan, various waders, including large a in Iceland can be found here, including birdwatching sites in Iceland and is also a population of Red-necked Phalarope, Black- the rarest, the Northern Shoveler. Other Ramsar site. Fifteen species of ducks breed headed Gull, Arctic Tern, Short-eared Owl species breed here, including several pairs regularly at Mývatn and the River Laxá, and and Eurasian Wren. Almost 120 species of Horned Grebe, and waders and gulls can there are few places in the world with such have been recorded at Mývatn. often be seen on spits of land jutting out into a diversity of breeding wildfowl. Barrow’s the bay. Goldeneye is the area’s flagship species and Take a Tour from Reykjahlíð the greatest density of breeding Harlequin Let’s take a tour clockwise around Mývatn, The Dry Rocks of Dimmuborgir Duck in the world is found in the upper approximately 35 km by road, and visit a few Dimmuborgir is a special place. Apart from reaches of the River Laxá; these species of the best birdwatching sites. Just below the the lava formations and bizarre landscape, breed nowhere else in Europe but Iceland. old hotel at Reykjahlíð is a pretty stretch of the bird life here differs from elsewhere the lakeshore with a number of small islets. around the lake. It is a very dry place and Horned Grebes breed commonly here and cliff-nesting birds such as the Common various dabbling ducks can be seen here Raven, Merlin and Gyr Falcon all breed too—sometimes Northern Shovelers are here. Redwing and Eurasian Wren are present. It is a very pleasant place to go conspicuous in the scrubland. birdwatching. At Höfði, there are native birch Just south of the village of Reykjahlíð, woodlands with patches of rowan, and there is a bay called Helgavogur. The bay is numerous introduced species have been ice-free in the winter and often attracts large planted. There are a variety of birds, with Great Northern Diver calling numbers of birds at that time of year. In a range of passerines, including Eurasian

90 www.icelandictimes.com Drakes Barrow‘s Goldeneye fighting for territory

A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young A male Tufted Duck taking off

A male Harlequin Duck in current A pair of Horned Grebe in courtship dance

Wren, Redwing, and Common Redpoll. In of breeding ducks. There are often a lot of but there are still plenty of black flies, lots the bay to the north of Höfði there are large birds at Birtingatjörn, on the other (eastern) of other birds come to the river. Barrow’s numbers of ducks and Barrow’s Goldeneye side of the road but unfortunately there is Goldeneye raise their young here and the breeds in the lava formations; there is often nowhere to stop the car to watch them. river hosts plenty of other ducks. a great commotion in the spring when the Lake Stakhólstjörn forms part of the On the western side of the lake from females are fighting over the best nesting protected area around the pseudocraters at Vagnbrekka to Neslandavík there are sites and chase each other around and are Skútustaðir. The islet in the lake is home numerous good sites for birdwatching. The then joined by the males. to nesting Great Northern Divers. You can road closely follows the lakeshore. As this often hear the haunting call of the divers is a protected breeding area from May to Around the Klasar Rock Pillars on beautiful spring and summer evenings. July, it is not recommended that you leave Along the shore at Ytrivogar there is a path Kritartjörn is separated from the lake by a your car or walk around here—it is much leading to the Klasar rock pillars, which long, narrow spit of land. To the south and better to watch the birds from your car. must feature on every second postcard of west there are large expanses of sedge, which There are often flocks of dabbling ducks, Mývatn. There are various birds along this are home to Horned Grebes and numerous diving ducks, Great Northern Divers, geese, path, including Horned Grebe which breeds dabbling ducks. There are often lots of Horned Grebes, waders, gulls and Arctic in the reeds right by the path, and a range Whooper Swans here and at Álftagerði, Terns here. The western shore is the best near Skútustaðir, the bay is often teeming place to find Common Scoters at Mývatn. with birds. It is less common on the eastern shore but can be found there too. A Parade of Harlequins The bird museum at bay Neslandavík The River Laxá in the Mývatn area is one of is one of the best birdwatching sites at the best known breeding sites for Harlequin Mývatn. A flock of several dozen Whooper Duck in the world. Food is plentiful and the Swans moult there and in late summer you birds dive to the bottom of the river to catch can find hundreds, if not thousands, of black fly larvae. It is also one of the best sites ducks on the bay. Horned Grebe, geese, for brown trout fishing in Iceland. In years ducks and various other birds breed around An aggressive Long-tailed Duck drake when there is little food in the lake itself the bay. - JÓH Images by © jóhann Óli Hilmarsson

91 www.icelandictimes.com EAST Iceland 93 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

he East Iceland Heritage Museum in their feeding grounds at higher elevations Eðvarður’s film, “In Reindeer Territory”, Egilsstaðir showcases life as it was in in summer, to lower elevation grasslands is available for viewing at the exhibition. Tthe bygone era of Iceland’s rural society, nearer the coast in winter. Visitors are also invited to watch a new where self-sufficiency was essential to The Heritage Museum guides visitors documentary about Icelandic reindeer and survival. through the history of the reindeer a short animated film based on a section of On display is a traditional ‘baðstofa’ or settlement in Iceland, their behaviour, the book, Independent People by Halldór communal living/sleeping room, taken characteristics and habits, a look at hunting Laxness, a twentieth-century Icelandic from an authentic Icelandic turf house regulations and, in short, everything you writer and Nobel Prize winner. -SP that was inhabited until as late as 1964. need to know about reindeer in Iceland. Visitors are encouraged to step into the This is a unique opportunity to learn about Admission: Adults (18+) 1,000 ISK ‘baðstofa’ and experience the nostalgia of these fascinating creatures, via a variety Opening hours: 1 June to 31 August life as it was in days gone by. of displays and multi-media presentations Mon–Fri: 11:30-19:00. The museum prides itself, however, on that bring the exhibit to life. Sat–Sun: 10:30-18:00. its permanent reindeer exhibition. The exhibition commemorates two Winter: Thur–Fri: 11:00-16:00 Found only in East Iceland, the rather the reindeer enthusiasts, Helgi Valtýsson, shy and sometimes elusive wild reindeer writer, and Eðvarður Sigurgeirsson, have a mystical air about them and photographer and filmmaker. In an effort East Iceland Heritage Museum Laufskógum 1 • 700 Egilsstaðir contribute to the area’s sense of identity. to shed light on the plight of the Icelandic +354 471 1412 With their numbers on the increase, it is reindeer, the pair tracked the movements [email protected] www.minjasafn.is possible to see them as they descend from of various herds from 1939 to 1944.

94 www.icelandictimes.com Petra loved people as well as stones and her passion project became a museum that is open to the public. Her husband, Nenni, passed away in 1974 and on the day of his funeral she decided to open up their home so that those who wished n the tiny town of Stöðvarfjörður in At first, this was only her personal to see the mineral collection could do so. IEast Iceland, a young girl named Petra collection as, for the first two decades, The stones and minerals have been began collecting stones in the mountains Petra would only collect stones that were chosen for their beauty and their colours, surrounding her home—and continued within walking distance of her house. As without regard to their scientific value or to do so until she passed away at the age she arranged them in the garden, strangers monetary worth. However, there are many of 89. During her lifetime, her home would pull over in their cars to better see semi-precious stones in the collection, became a museum and is now a popular what was going on. Sometimes the children such as amethyst. tourist attraction: Petra’s Stone & Mineral would be sent out to ask the drivers if they Today, her children run the museum Collection. would like to come inside to see more stones together and continue to add to the In the story of Burnt Njal (Brennu- and have a cup of coffee. collection. Her youngest daughter, Njálssaga), it is said that a quarter of your Petra spent her entire life collecting rocks, Þórkatla, says that she, herself, would personality comes from your name, the and would sometimes bring her young prefer not to believe in elves—but maybe other three-quarters come from your children along to search for new additions her mother had a helping hand when she mother, father and your upbringing. ‘Petra’ to the collection in the surrounding went around searching for rocks, as she means stone, which is oddly fitting. mountains. She arranged her stones in was incredibly lucky. -EMV The collection is remarkable, as every a garden that would be right at home in stone is beautiful. While it is very interesting a fairy-tale. Petra believed in elves and Petra’s Stone Museum Fjarðarbraut • 755 Stöðvarfjörður for geologists to see so many rocks from hidden people and her colourful garden +354 475 8834 the same area, the stones have not been would be the perfect place to meet them. [email protected] arranged according to their scientific value As her children moved out of the house, www.steinapetra.is but rather in a way that pleases the eye, a her stones moved in and tribute to the wonderful colours that can be the remarkable collection found in nature. continued to grow.

East Iceland Heritage Museum

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Wilderness Center of Iceland Center of recreation

he Wilderness Center is an authentic Tand peaceful hideaway, located right on the edge of Northern Europe´s most extensive wilderness. One can experience the spirit of the past through a variety of services, such as: unique accommodation, local food, exhibitions, horse riding and hiking, day tours, escorted tours and tailor-made tours. The Center's tranquil and pleasant location, as well as the distinct choice of accommodation and unique setting both indoors and out, will draw guests into adventures of the past and offer a unique atmosphere. Delicious food from local ingredients is cooked from scratch in the open home- style kitchen. Cakes and bread are also home-made. The Center offers a variety of activities and services. One can go hiking along waterfalls, cross the river on a cable-bridge, go horseback riding, rent mountain bikes, MUSEUM • HIKING • RIDING • MOUNTAIN BIKING • FISHING • go fishing, gaze at the stars in the stargazing ACCOMMODATION • LOCAL FOOD • GUIDED TOURS hut or visit the creative museum about the history of the Icelandic wilderness, where one can walk into the adventures of the Icelandic wilderness and be touched by the dramatic struggle between the forces of nature and the Icelanders' fight to survive. Many different day tours can be made from the Wilderness Center, either self- drive or escorted. For example, tours to Hengifoss, Laugarfell hot springs, Snæfell area, Hafrahvammagljúfur canyons and many more are possible. Multi-day, tailormade tours can also be arranged, all year around. Óbyggðasetur Íslands Norðurdalur in Fljótsdalur 701 Egilsstaðir +354 896 2339 [email protected] www.wilderness.is

96 www.icelandictimes.com 97 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 Northern Lights Exhibition

inThe charming the village Eastfjords of Fáskrúðsfjörður is home to a fascinating Northern Lights centre

he Eastfjords, with its remote, unspoiled K. Hauksdóttir, a fellow teacher. They Tbeauty, is where you will see gorgeous have photographed the Northern Lights mountains, charming fishing villages, and for many years, in and around beautiful thriving wildlife. Fáskrúðsfjörður is a small Fáskrúðsfjörður. Eventually, Auroras village of fewer than 500 people nestled Iceland was founded. on a long fjord of the same name. And, it’s the most ‘French’ part of Iceland. The Fascinating and fun exhibition village was originally a base for more than Auroras Iceland focuses on Northern 5,000 French fishermen who came every Lights tours, nature trips, education and its year in large numbers to fish the Icelandic fantastic Northern Lights photo exhibition waters. Some settled here in the late 19th in a historic house. The exhibition of century. The village had a hospital, chapel, Northern Lights photos opened in and cemetery that were built by the French Wathne’s House in January 2016. On fishermen, and the history remains, as the display are the magnificent photos shot by streets of Fáskrúðsfjörður are marked in Jónína and Jóhanna called ‘A Dance With both Icelandic and French. the Mountains.’ All the photos were taken in Fáskrúðsfjörður where a majestic circle of Northern lights in the East mountains surrounds the fjord and makes Part of the charm of the village is the new the Northern Lights experience unique. Icelandic House of Northern Lights, which Its Northern Lights exhibition of is next door to Fosshótel Austfirðir. In handpicked photos, on-screen time-lapse October 2015, Viðar Jónsson, a local teacher and slideshow can be seen at Wathne’s and football coach, came up with an idea House, a historic house and the oldest in of how to utilise the many possibilities that the village. There is a selfie section where Auroras Iceland are present in Fáskrúðsfjörður for enjoying guests can snap a picture of themselves in Hafnargata 7, Fáskrúðsfjörður the beauty of the majestic Northern Lights. front of a Northern Lights background. Tel. +354 783-9500 He introduced his ideas to Jónína G. The exhibition is an ideal stopover for www.auroras.is [email protected] Óskarsdóttir, a local nurse, and Jóhanna groups travelling in Fjarðabyggð. 98 www.icelandictimes.com 99 www.icelandictimes.com SOUTH Iceland

The wealth of South Iceland lies in the variety of Þingvellir; museums, churches, the Stöng settlement, geological, historical and nature sites along with the Saga centre and villages like Eyrarbakki. Activities the long list of activities that can be enjoyed in the abound. Tours take you to all the sites, including the area. This region has geological wonders such as glaciers. Horse riding tours are popular. Try the riverjet, the waterfalls of Gullfoss, Háifoss, Skógafoss, Systra boat trips or kayaking; scuba diving in clear waters, and Seljalandsfoss; Geysir; Þingvellir, where the fishing or caving. Independent travellers can try hiking tectonic plates crack the Earth; Europe’s largest glacier, and cycling, camping or caravanning. Winter activites Vatnajökull; the Kerið caldera; world-famous volcanoes are just as thrilling. Fortunately, there is plenty of like Hekla—‘the Gateway to Hell’, Lakagígar, Laki, the accommodation available throughout the region from notorious Eyjafjallajökull and the Katla Geopark; fantasy camping to high-class hotels and restaurants to suit sites like Þórsmörk and Jökulsárlón. Here are historical every taste. A fully-developed infrastructure helps you sites like the world’s longest-running parliament at get the most from your trips.

Vestrahorn: A Beautiful Slice of Iceland

This family company operates the Viking Café, guesthouse, old farm and a horse rental.

ast Iceland is where you find the nature in the southeast, including welcomes guests through a variety of actual “ice” of Iceland, including professional and amateur photographers, businesses, including the Viking Café, a Vatnajökull glacier, a giant white the Game of Thrones production, and a guesthouse, old farm and a horse rental. spot on the map that is truly famous Indian Bollywood film. Apple also Ebreathtaking in person. You can see the visited the region to film some footage for Coffeehouse and accommodation glacier descend into black sands and scenery for its product launches. During Viking Café is a little oasis at the bottom hot streams erupt from frozen banks of the winter, this region is especially popular of Vestrahorn near Hofn, The charming ice. The landscape is remarkable with for the chance to see and photography guesthouse offers 7 comfortable rooms for mountains jutting out of the earth close Northern Lights. Watching the green and travellers and the coffeehouse is operated to the sea and sweeping regions like white lights flicker and dance in the sky is by a warm and accommodating manager, Stokksnes and Vestrahorn. Travellers a memorable experience. serving quality coffee, a choice of delicious come from around the world to the region Litlahorn, which is operated by a family cakes and pastries, as well as sandwiches to photograph the pristine, stunning with deep roots in southeast Iceland, and waffles. While the food and service

102 www.icelandictimes.com Photo By Peter Fischer Photo By Eva Frischling

Litlahorn Horni 781, Hofn +354 478 2577 [email protected] www.hornhestar.is www.vikingcafe.is is top-notch, it’s understandable if visitors sand beaches close to Höfn. The groups are Vatnajökull glacier into the sea, where the become distracted by the view. The Viking small (2-5 people) and the 2.5 hour tour harshest east coast sea waves have tumbled Café overlooks the beautiful and vast bay of offers stunning views while riding a good- and smoothed the materials for thousands Vestrahorn on one side and Vatnajökull on natured stocky Icelandic horse, a unique of years before returning them to shore. the other side. breed. Litlahorn also breeds horses and The stones and sand are used for stone sells them to customers around the world. carpets, bathstones, house sheathing and Horse Rental for asphalt and roads. A great way to survey the beautiful Stones and materials for sale East Iceland has something for everyone surroundings is by horseback. Litlahorn Litlahorn provides unique materials for and the Litlahorn owners are here to make offers a horse rental service overseen by sale from its land. The company utilizes your dream holiday a reality. Seize the one of the owners, a skilled horse breeder its Stokksnes beach mine, which consists opportunity to stay at Vestrahorn during with a passion for the family’s horses. of material that has been carried by the your trip to Iceland! -JG Guests can take a riding tour along black glacier river Hornafjarðarfljót from the

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Scenic Food Tours with at in celand A Culinary Journey E from Past to Present I

t’s an exciting time to be in Iceland with location throughout the tour, and all of in Iceland, bringing it right into the 21st Iso much happening here on this small isle. this while being enveloped in the beautiful century. Many changes are taking place, not least in Icelandic nature that surrounds us.” Each of Eat in Iceland’s handpicked the area of Icelandic food culture that has Eat in Iceland’s Scenic Food Tours will locations must fulfil certain criteria in order been evolving rapidly over the last few years. also be taking a brief look at Iceland’s to be included in the tour. Participants are The idea of food tourism is a relatively food culture from a historical perspective, chosen not only for their emphasis on local new concept in Iceland. While there because so much of the past attitudes food, but also for their friendliness, their are many tours that focus on Iceland’s continue to influence modern food culture cultural and historical perspective, and their renowned scenic wonders, very few, if any, in Iceland today. “I find it all so fascinating,” unique Icelandic approach to food. focus on food. Marie continues. “Food is such an integral “Our aim is to combine Iceland’s “Food is often a bit of an afterthought on part of every society and I don’t think you renowned scenery with lots of interesting many tours in Iceland, whereas our goal can really appreciate Iceland without at least cultural and historical information and of is to give visitors the best of both worlds,” some understanding of the hardships that course plenty of great local food. I think it’s explains Marie Valgarðsson, founder of Eat people endured in times past when food was a recipe for a winning day tour,” concludes in Iceland. “I thought it would be a good just a matter of survival.” Marie. - EMV idea to ferret out the best restaurants, eateries Things are different today and recently and food producers outside of Reykjavík there has been a virtual explosion of Eat in Iceland 800 Selfoss and go on what is called a ‘moveable feast’, culinary initiatives among a new breed of +354 697 9280 where we travel from one location to the young, creative chefs and food producers [email protected] other, eating a different course at a different who are taking a different approach to food www.eatiniceland.com

104 www.icelandictimes.com instructions on the finer points of using the langoustine cracker and fork that come with the dish. Dine in the The menu was created and developed by the French chef Jacques DuPont and his many dishes, such as the beautifully LangoustineHumarhöfnin satisfies the hunger for wholeCapital langoustine in Höfn presented ‘Mix of Whole Langoustine and Tails’ and the famous ‘Black Magic Sauce’ celand is known for some of the finest food restaurant, which has been a big have been very successful. Paired with one Ifresh fish in the world and a large share success since it was opened over 8 years of Humarhöfnin’s specially selected wines, of the country’s catch is landed at Höfn í ago by Anna Þorsteinsdóttir, her brother you are in line for an absolute feast. Also Hornafirði, on the south-east coast. Höfn Ari Þorsteinsson and their spouses, has on the menu, the arctic char is a delight. (which sounds like ‘Hup’ to our ears and definitely earned that accolade. The crème brûlée, made from local eggs means harbour) is also known as the and imported Madagascar vanilla will langoustine capital of Iceland, where A menu to entice any connoisseur have you swooning and you might want or several thousand visitors gather in the town A favourite with tourists from the need to order a double portion. for the annual Humarhátið (Langoustine) Mediterranean countries, Humarhöfnin The casual, bright and lively décor fits Festival, held in June. was the first restaurant in Iceland to serve Humarhöfnin’s harbour location and the You would expect the langoustine whole langoustine, though it has now friendly wait staff will be happy to point capital of Iceland to have a fine-dining become popular in the town. The concept out the very boat that brought in the day’s restaurant that can do justice to the lovely is still new in Iceland, so each diner who catch, moored at the docks just a short little crustacean. The Humarhöfnin sea- orders langoustine receives illustrated distance away. The building itself was originally the town co-op before it was totally renovated and transformed into this beautiful restaurant. There is an exhibit on the second floor which portrays the history of the house. If you are a langoustine aficionado, you can fly, drive or take a bus to Höfn where you will find your seafood haven awaiting you. -EMV Humarhöfnin Hafnarbraut 4 • 780 Höfn +354 478 1200

[email protected] www.humarhofnin.is

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106 www.icelandictimes.com On Top of the world

- AGlacier timid soul’s approach to the mighty Jeeps Vatnajökull

he weather report was looking and the wind in our faces. Further along Tgood—a full day of sunshine ahead we stop and dismount, to take in the of me and temperatures above 10°C. I was magnificent panoramic views over the on my way to a face to face encounter with glacier, the Atlantic Ocean and the town the world’s 3rd largest glacier, the mighty of Höfn far below in the distance. I felt like Vatnajökull. This trip would mark a I was on top of the world and it was truly a couple of firsts for me—my first time ever cause for celebration! to set foot on a glacier, and my first time Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwards to travel by snowmobile. Needless to say I unless I drive. By now I am feeling a little was really excited! more sure of myself and agree to give I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of it a try. This time we are off to inspect a Glacier Jeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting massive sheer rock face that rises straight place: the crossroads of Route No.1 and up from the glacier at an elevation of 1200 F985. This is the official meeting place for metres. Finally, our one hour snowmobile all Glacier Jeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps adventure comes to an end and it is time to has years of experience conducting jeep, return to Jöklasel for a well deserved bite snowmobile and hiking tours on the glacier to eat and a hot drink. The view out the since 1994. (Bjarney has been helping run restaurant windows is as one would expect: the family business since she was 14 years magnificent. old.) I parked my car and joined them Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour in their sturdy 4WD which wound its of the glacier that comes with all the way slowly ever upwards, following the equipment such as safety helmets, climbing undulating gravel road, which twisted irons and ice axe, instruction and a guide, and turned around hairpin bends, past included in the price. waterfalls and deep canyons. My guides In case you just don’t think a strenuous fill me in on the details of the landscape, hike or a thrilling snowmobile adventure pointing out how the glacier has crawled is for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers across the terrain, devastating everything in an alternative to see the glacier in a its path along with other interesting facts. comfortable, specially equipped 4WD and Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sea is available year round, weather permitting. level later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’s Each tour is only 3 to 4 hours in total, highest restaurant and owned by Glacier giving you plenty of time to do other things Jeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base camp with your day, even though once you are where we suit up with boots, warm overalls up there you may not want to come down. and helmets for the snowmobile excursion. Although it’s best to book one day in Now it’s time to test drive the advance, you can also just show up at the snowmobiles. I am a little hesitant at first crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or 2.00 and Kristján shows me the ropes. It looks pm and join the tour from there. easy enough but I decide that I prefer to let Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: a must for him drive over the glacier with me sitting your bucket list! -EMV safely behind him on this ‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feel for it. ‘Off Glacier Jeeps Vagnsstaðir, 781 Suðursveit we go over the wild white yonder, climbing +354 478 1000 high into the sun’ to paraphrase an old [email protected] www.glacierjeeps.is song, with cloudless blue skies above us 107 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

unique cultural heritage has not been lost for future generations. The museum’s modest admission fee of 2000 ISK gives visitors access to the entire Digging Deeper museum complex that is spread out over three permanent exhibitions: the Heritage Museum, The Open Air Museum and the into Iceland Museum of Transport and Communication, The Skógar Folk Museum of South Iceland all of which provide visitors with a rare glimpse into the Iceland of a bygone era. he esthetics of Icelandic nature are cluster of buildings is sometimes overlooked Tlegendary. People are mesmerised by her by the crowds who flock to the falls, it really The Open Air Museum beauty, often coming away with a profound should be on the radar of everyone who It is without question that one of sense of having discovered new realms that seeks a more in depth understanding of Skógasafn’s most endearing elements is its had hitherto only been found in the pages Icelandic history and culture. open air museum with its beloved collection of books, or seen in the mystical landscapes of 19th and early 20th century turf buildings of film and television. It’s easy to get lost in Preserving Iceland’s past and wooden houses. The buildings were the profound sense of wonderment that is for future generations brought in from surrounding counties and Icelandic nature. The elements, however, can The museum was founded on the initiative moved to Skógar, where they were restored take their toll, as the wind- and rain-soaked of Thorður Tómasson, a forward thinking to their original condition. The small landscapes sometimes force visitors to take Icelander who began collecting as a chapel, while new on the outside, is filled shelter. While travelling the south coast young teen in the 1930s at a time when with fine relics gathered from churches road towards Vík, there is one such place in modern technology was swiftly replacing around South Iceland while the turf houses particular that stands out. a thousand years of a traditional way of were a way of life in Iceland for hundreds life. Realising the importance of preserving of years. Where to imbibe Iceland’s Iceland’s unique cultural heritage, Thorður unique cultural aspects went from farm to farm, writing down The Heritage Museum A few hundred metres to the east of the stories and anecdotes of the older Household items, farming and fishing the iconic Skógarfoss waterfall lies the generation and collecting thousands of implements, ornate wooden chests, decorative Skogar Folk Museum. While the cultural artifacts along the way. It was items of brass, silver and gold, as well as unassuming Thorður’s foresight and enthusiasm that traditional clothing and artifacts dating has helped ensure that Iceland’s back to the Viking Age are just a fraction of the thousands of items to be found in the

108 www.icelandictimes.com Heritage Museum. The centrepiece of the museum is the eight-oared fishing boat, the Pétursey, built in 1855, which was in use in nearby Vík until 1946. The Transport and Communications Museum tells the story of the history and evolution of transport, communication and technologies in Iceland in the 19th and 20th centuries, from the age of the work horse to the digital communication of today. Housed in a large and modern exhibition hall, the Transport Museum also contains an excellent café that serves soups, sandwiches and desserts, and a delightful souvenir shop that offers a variety of local handicrafts and other items not found elsewhere in Iceland. The museum is located one minute from Skogar Waterfall, just off Ring Road 1, 30km west of Vík and 150km east of Reykjavík. -EMV

Skógasafn Skógum • 861 Hvolsvöllur +354 487 8845 [email protected] www.skogasafn.is

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VikingsAND SETTLEMENT

t the time when the Irish had plundered wherever they went Seagoing ships and certain navigational skill were discovered Iceland and started or traded with the people they obviously a prerequisite for regular sailings there, boatbuilding came into contact with, but later the settlement of Iceland. Aand skill in navigation were also developing they settled in other countries, No remains of seagoing on the west coast of Norway. The establishing colonies. This was ships from the Viking age have been found in Iceland. settlements in the deep and narrow fjords the Viking period, from about This ship is the Oseberg were cut off from each other by high 800 to 1050, the beginning of an ship located at the Viking mountains and woods. Hence, sea transport extremely dynamic epoch in the Ships Museum in Oslo was soon to become the most important history of European exploration. mode of communication. Wood was The Norse Vikings first went to the Viking ships has to be sought in Norway, plentiful for shipbuilding and it is believed Shetlands, then to the Orkneys, Scotland where two big Viking ships have been that shortly before 800 the Norwegians and Ireland. There they may have heard found, and in Denmark where some old were able to build seagoing ships. Sailing of the voyages of the Irish to Iceland and ships have been excavated at the bottom skills developed, first in the fjords and along therefore sought this island in the north, of Roskilde fjord. Among them was the the coast, whereby the isolation of the many but they might also have stumbled upon knörr, a type of vessel considered to have small places was broken, finally leading to it accidentally. Anyway, it could hardly been the cargo ship of the Viking period. the quest for the open sea, the westward be long before the Vikings with their Norse seafarers discovered Iceland around voyages. Before 800 the Nordic peoples increasing number of ships at sea would 850 A.D. or shortly thereafter. had hardly any links with the mainstream discover Iceland. Seagoing ships were, of Three Vikings are mentioned by name of European civilisation, but then suddenly course, a precondition for the settlement in written sources as explorers of Iceland. the Vikings came on the scene, sailing of Iceland. No remains of ships from The Viking Naddoddur is said to have been in elegantly shaped, fast-running and this period, however, have been found in the first Norseman to come to Iceland beautifully decorated ships to distant shores. Iceland, only fragments of small boats and he did not find any sign of human In the beginning they raided and in burial mounds. Information on the habitation. He sailed back to Norway, 110 www.icelandictimes.com calling the country Snæland (‘Snowland’). Iceland. Next winter Ingólfur was at it was an important historical event. The Gardar Svavarsson, a Swedish Viking, Hjörleifshöfði, the third at the foot of Mt. settlement of Norsemen in Iceland was sailed to Snæland. He was the first Nordic Ingólfsfjall, but when his slaves finally a natural continuation of their Viking man to sail round the country, finding found his high-seat pillars, which had incursions to the west from Norway. that it was an island. Consequently he drifted ashore at Reykjavík, he built his Soon after the settlement it became named it Garðarshólmur (‘Gardarsholm’). home there. evident to the Icelandic seafarers that He wintered at Húsavik on the Bay of It has been estimated that Ingólfur there was a land to the west of Iceland. Skjálfandaflói. Next spring when he was came to Iceland in either 870 or 874, the Landnáma (the Book of Settlements) ready to sail back, he lost a boat from his latter date being traditionally recognised relates that the Viking Gunnbjörn drifted ship with a man called Náttfari together as the year when Norse settlement began westward from Iceland, coming to a land with a man and woman slave. They settled in Iceland. Ingólfur’s wife was Hallveig called Gunnbjarnarsker (‘Gunnbjörn in Reykjadalur. Therefore Náttfari is the Fróðadóttir, Reykjavík’s first housewife. Skerries’). Snæbjörn Galti found this land first Nordic man to settle in Iceland, but The Age of Settlement lasted for about again in 970. as he did not come to Iceland on his own 60 years, ending in 930 when the general Eiríkur rauði (Erik the Red) was born initiative, he has not been included with assembly, the Althing, was established at at Drangar on the north-west coast the settlers. Þingvellir. During this period about 10- of Iceland. His son was Leifur heppni Flóki Vilgerðarson, a Norwegian 20 thousand people, mainly from Western Eiríksson (Leif Eiríksson the Lucky). Erik viking, sailed to Gardarsholm, intending Norway, the Scottish isles and Ireland, the Red sailed to the west around 982, to settle there. He therefore took with him settled in Iceland. This was the first looking for Gunnbjarnarsker. He sailed his family and livestock. For guidance permanent settlement of European people up to the east coast of Greenland and then he took with him three ravens. When on the other side of an ocean, and as such, southwards along the coast, inside the he released the first some way out, it flew back to Norway. When the second INGÓLFUR ARNARSON was set free further out, it returned to is considered to have been the ship, but later when the third was the first Norse settler in released, it flew straight ahead, directing Iceland. He arrived in 870 its owner to Iceland. After that Flóki was or 874, but the latter date called Hrafna-Flóki (‘Raven-Flóki’). They has received traditional recognition. He built his sailed along the south coast and to the home at Reykjavik where Vatnsfjörður fjord on the north coast of his high-seat pillars had the Bay of Breiðifjörður. Here they spent drifted ashore. the summer fishing without procuring any hay for the livestock, which consequently perished during the following winter. Next spring Flóki climbed a mountain to look around. He then had a view over a fjord filled with ice. “Therefore they named the country Iceland, a name it has had ever since”, says Landnáma, the Book of Settlements. After three years in Iceland Flóki sailed back to Norway. Flóki had no favourable reports to make on Iceland, whereas his crew spoke well of some things and ill of others. It is believed that Garðar Svavarsson and Hrafna-Flóki came to Iceland around 865 or later. The first Norse settler in Iceland is traditionally considered to have been Ingólfur Arnarson. On sighting the Icelandic south coast, he cast his high-seat pillars overboard, vowing that he would build his home wherever they drifted ashore. Ingólfur landed on or near the promontory of Ingólfshöfði on the south coast where he spent his first winter in 111 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

drift ice. He was then the first man known emigrated to Greenland. Although late Routes followed by the Nordic Vikings on to have rounded Hvarf (Cape Farewell), in the season, Bjarni set off in his ship to their western voyages before and during the the southernmost tip of Greenland. follow his father to Greenland. He and his age of the Icelandic settlement. From the west coast of Norway, the Vikings first sailed When reaching the western coast, he men drifted westwards, past Greenland, to Scotland and Ireland where Viking colonies found inhabitable areas. He explored the came to a low wooded coast, sailed north were established. Iceland was settled both region for three years, calling the country and northeast, and finally arrived at direct from West-Norway and from the Viking Greenland, as he realised that an alluring Herjólfsnes in the Eastern Settlement of settlements in Ireland and Scotland. From Iceland the Vikings sailed to Greenland where name would attract more settlers. Greenland (now Ikigait). they established Eystribyggð (the Eastern After one year back home in Iceland, Around 990 Leif Ericsson sailed from Settlement), and Vestribyggð (the Western Erik sailed again for Greenland in 986, Brattahlíð on an exploration voyage on Settlement), both on the west coast of Greenland. now accompanied by 25 ships and more Bjarni Herjólfsson’s ship, and it is believed Bjami Herjólfsson sailed from Iceland around than 300 settlers from Iceland. Only 14 of that Bjarni himself went with him on this 985 or 986 for Greenland, but drifting farther west he discovered America. Leifur Eiriksson these ships arrived safely in the settlement voyage to the west. During this expedition (Leif Ericson) sailed from the Icelandic settlement area, the other ships being lost at sea or they came to Helluland (Baffin Island), in Greenland to explore the American coast returning back to Iceland. The Icelandic Markland (Labrador, Newfoundland), further during the years 1000 to 1014, and then settlements in South-west Greenland and an area further south which they he found the land he called Vinland, which has not been conclusively identified. The Viking were in two regions: one was called called Vinland, but it is uncertain where settlements in America were not permanent as Eystribyggð (‘the Eastern Settlement’), that land was. the Vikings withdrew from there after fighting now the Julianeháb district, and the other Several expeditions were made from with the indigenous natives, most likely eskimos. Vestribyggd (‘the Western Settlement’), Brattahlíð around the year 1000 for Shortly after 1410 the connections with the now the Godtháb district. Erik the Red the purpose of further exploration and Icelandic settlements in Greenland were disrupted, the fate of the settlers there being built his home at Brattahlíð at the bottom settlement of Vinland. The leader of the unknown. end of Eiríksfjörður (‘Erik’s Fjord’), now main expedition was Þorfinnur Karlsefni, called Kagssiarssuk. Brattahlíð was thence whose wife was Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir. Although permanent settlement in the focal point of the Icelandic settlement They intended to settle down in Vinland, Vinland was abandoned in the years in Greenland and the Þjóðhild Church but due to a conflict with the natives around 1000, fishermen from the was built there. there, most likely Eskimos, the settlers Icelandic settlements in Greenland had One of the settlers who went to returned to Greenland after a two-year stations there later on, bringing back with Greenland with Erik the Red was stay in Vinland. Later Þorfinnur Karlsefni them many products, especially timber, as Herjólfur. He lived at Eyrarbakki (Eyrar) and his wife Guðríður moved back to it was much shorter to transport it from on the south-west coast of Iceland. His son Iceland together with their son, Snorri there than from Norway. was Bjarni Herjólfsson. When Bjarni came Þorfinnsson, who was born in Vinland. The Vinland voyages, therefore, did back home from a voyage abroad later that He is the first white man known to have not result in permanent colonisation by same summer, he was told his father had been born in America. Nordic people on the American mainland. 112 www.icelandictimes.com That was the end of the westward drive were also overpowered, the Irish had sailed to during the Viking age, with only a small sustaining heavy losses in Iceland long before the community remaining behind in their many places. They were Vikings arrived, and it is homeland, Iceland. The connection with thrown out of Dublin in not impossible that some the Icelandic settlements in Greenland 902 and their areas were of the Norse settlers who was also disrupted shortly after 1410, the reduced both in Scotland came from Ireland brought fate of the settlers there being unknown. and on the Hebrides. As with them Irish navigators. Therefore, the only permanent King Harald Fairhair had Furthermore, it may not settlement during the Viking age in a new conquered the areas of be entirely an accident that land was in Iceland. During the first few the west-coast Vikings in after the Vikings had been years of Norse settlement in Iceland it is Norway, they could no in contact with the Irish and believed that the number of inhabitants longer expect any support Þorfinnur Karlsefni, an become acquainted with increased rather slowly, the first settlers from Norway. Therefore the Icelandic seafarer, was the their navigational skills, appropriating very large areas. The main situation both in Norway leader of an expedition from the Icelanders discovered the Icelandic settlements in influx of settlers in Iceland occurred and on the British islands Greenland to Vinland in North Greenland and later during rather few years towards the end no doubt encouraged America around 1000 A.D. His Vinland on the American of the age of settlement, between 890 mass-emigration to Iceland statue in Reykjavík is by Einar continent. It is not being and 910. The settlers came mainly from during the decades just Jónsson, the sculptor, whose suggested, however, that museum in Reykjavík contains southwestern Norway, a famous Viking before and after 900. many splendid works of art. the navigational skills of area during the Age of Settlement. Land It is interesting to the Norse Vikings might was scarce there, and most of the Vikings note that, due to inexplicable fate or a not have been sufficient for them to who raided the Scottish islands and remarkable chain of events, it was mostly achieve what they did. Ireland came from there. the West-Norwegian Vikings who had So far, historical sources have been Later they established Viking colonies had the closest contact with Celtic people drawn upon in an attempt to verify the and in due course they intermarried with who emigrated to Iceland. Vikings origin of the Icelandic population. By the Celtic population of these countries. who had been living for two or three measuring skeletons in burial mounds The Vikings had also taken Celtic people generations in Ireland and on the Scottish from the pagan period in Iceland and as slaves and brought them back to isles had established close relations with comparing them with skeletons of a similar Norway. Thus, during the Icelandic Age Celtic families through inter-marriages period in Norway, Sweden, Denmark of Settlement, these Vikings had come and friendship when they moved to and the Viking settlements on the into close contact with Celtic people and Iceland, and it is well known that both Scottish isles and Ireland, scientists have must, therefore, have been considerably free people and slaves of Irish origin came demonstrated that height and headforms influenced by Celtic culture. At that along with the Vikings to settle in Iceland. indicate that the settlers in Iceland were time there was no uniform nation in It is therefore historically proven that the mainly of West-Norwegian origin, the Norway as the separate fylki (‘shires’) people who settled in Iceland were almost same being true of the Viking settlements were independent communities. Harald entirely of Norwegian-Irish stock. The in Scotland and Ireland. These people are a Fairhair was the first king to reign over Nordic root, however, is dominant with mixture of Nordic and Celtic populations. most of Norway after his conquest of the respect to language as all the settlers Finally, it may be pointed out that blood different shires. The Vikings in south-west spoke the then common Nordic tongue, group studies show that the A-group is Norway fought bravely against him, but and only very few Irish words found their the commonest among the Norwegians, in the Battle of Hafursfjord towards the way into the Icelandic language except in the Swedes and the Danes, whereas the end of the 9th century, Harald Fairhair personal names and place names. O-group dominates among the Icelanders. won a famous victory over the westcoast On the other hand, it is believed that Similar studies in the British Isles show Vikings. After that many of them fled Irish culture had great influence on the that the Scots and the North-Irish have from Norway to their relatives on the saga writing and other literary activities a blood group distribution similar to that Scottish islands and Ireland, while others of the Icelanders. The fact remains at least of the Icelanders. Thus, both archaeology went to Iceland. that nowhere else in the Nordic countries and blood group studies support the Later the Vikings on the Scottish islands did saga-writing become as common as historical evidence that the Icelandic raided places in Norway until King Harald in Iceland. Indeed, the Icelandic sagas population is of West-Norwegian/ Celtic Fairhair sent a fleet with warriors to the are the main source of information on all origin, whereas the islands and conquered them. Then several the Nordic countries during the Viking Icelandic language of the Vikings fled from the Scottish islands age and the period of the Icelandic is purely Nordic. to Iceland. But at the same time as the West- Commonwealth. Irish culture also Norwegian Vikings were faced with this influenced Icelandic religious traditions -Hjálmar R. defeat both in Norway and on the Scottish and enhanced navigational skills during Bárðarson isles, the Norwegian colonies in other areas the Viking age. As mentioned above, 113 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

A Delightful ExperienceIcelandic Times checks out Fjöruborðið in Stokkseyri Restaurant

ave you strolled along the beautiful soup. The desire for it can be so strong Hshore on Stokkseyri's beach? Have that rational thinking simply blows away you been spellbound by the white foaming with the wind. Below the black rock face waves out by the horizon and let the silvery at the Þrengsli mountain pass, between waves lapping at the shoreline chase and mountain vistas, under the stars, people tease you? Under a blue-pink sky mirrored rush toward the sea to sit down with our in the water, this surface tempts and draws, guests and party-happy ghosts, surrounded yet is the harrowing limit of our human by some tickling pleasure coming from world. It's where golden langoustines magical bowls at The Seashore, where hook their claws together and dance a a thousand candles cast their glow on belly dance while mermaids serve tables weathered faces and loving wineskins. amongst shrimp wrapped in seaweed, Matarást, the Icelandic expression for clapping shellfish and inquisitive haddock. "love of food" takes on a new meaning. This is a magic moment carrying you away Fjöruborðið Restaurant in the village of to an intoxicated state of well-being and The soup is magical. It is suitable for Stokkseyri is an enchanted place of delight. lust. Your greatest desire is to lick on numerous occasions and happy moments People have to tear themselves away from langoustine in garlic butter, gulp down on ordinary days, but Fjöruborðið takes it - but that's all right. There's only positive the soup that has been lovingly pampered no responsibility for consequences or magic inside, tickling both stomach and - little changed through the years. stirring adventures that could result from soul. And now the magic has been sealed ingesting it. It has a will of its own and, as into jars for those who struggle with an such, it is risky for those who don't want to irresistible craving for this great seafood venture beyond the average. This is the most delicacy from Icelandic waters, even when famous langoustine soup in the Republic of they're unfortunate enough to be not close Iceland, prepared by handsome cooks who to the restaurant. Enjoy! Remember to live step naked out of the ocean at Stokkseyri life to the fullest, and enjoy every pleasure with their catch: the plumpest langoustines and suspense that a good day brings who desire only one thing - to get onto dry land. Adventurous creatures from the ocean world want to join us in just the same way as Fjöruborðið Eyrarbraut 3a • 825 Stokkseyri we want to join them in the depths. +354 483 1550 People have struggled against storm [email protected] www.fjorubordid.is after storm to get here and enjoy this 114 www.icelandictimes.com Discover an

Ice-BlueJökulsárlón Boat Tours tours World Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon

here are few glacial lagoons existing Coffee with a View Located within a few hundred metres of in the world today and certainly none Enjoy the spectacular view over the Route No. 1, the lagoon is actually much moreT awe-inspiring and accessible than lagoon in the small café where you can bigger and deeper than it appears. With the renowned Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, get homemade soup with bread, fresh an area measuring over 25 square km (9.6 situated at the head of Breiðamerkulljökull sandwiches, cakes with coffee or tea which square miles), you could easily fit the island outlet glacier on the peerless Vatnajökull can be either taken out on the terrace or of Heimaey (in the Westman Islands) into it Glacier. consumed inside. with room to spare. At over 300m (984 feet) deep, five Leaning Towers of Pisa, stacked Sail Among the Icebergs The Show of Fire and Ice one on top of the other, would fit inside the Jökulsárlón ehf has been operating boat tours The magnificent annual fireworks display lagoon with room to spare. With the ebb on the east side of the lagoon for the last 25 over the lagoon can be described without and flow of the tides, sea water enters into years. Sail among the icebergs in a 40 minute a doubt as one of the most memorable the lagoon bringing with it krill, capelin, amphibious boat tour, or take an exciting fireworks shows on earth. The event, held herring and salmon. Curious seals know one hour Zodiac boat tour that goes further annually in late August, starts at 11.30 pm, where the food is plentiful and can often into the lagoon, getting you as close as is safe with proceeds going to Iceland’s volunteer be seen bobbing along with the currents, to the icebergs and the glacier itself. search and rescue organization, ICESAR. swimming in and out between the icebergs and appearing to enjoy the attention from onlookers on the shore. Across the road, near the delta where fresh and salt water converge, you can walk down to the water’s edge to witness the rather surreal sight of baby ‘bergs’ beached on the shoreline. -EMV Jökulsárlón Reynivellir 3 781 Höfn í Hornafjörður +354 478 2222 [email protected] www.jokulsarlon.is

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FREIRAUM-FotografiePhoto Tours around the world

116 www.icelandictimes.com t the turn of the millennium photography was undergoing first slow and then increasing changes. Everything became easier and Afaster. Pictures could be seen on a small screen on the back of the camera and later they could be developed with editing programs in the digital laboratory. In addition, it was possible to save thousands of pictures in the library of the program that once needed volumes of document files and slides—a true revolution in photography. Around the same time—in 2001—the company, FREIRAUM- Fotografie, was established. They recognized the growing interest in photography as a leisure activity, as a hobby but also as an artistic opportunity for development. But In addition, Lightroom and above all, as a combination of Photoshop workshops are offered “travelling and photography”. In especially for image editing. addition to Cuba, Norway and Most of the workshops are led Greenland, Iceland became a place by Manfred Horender, referent of interest for travellers. and founder of FREIRAUM- The striking landscape of the island of its bird diversity, glaciers and waterfalls. Fotografie. During the workshops and fire and ice, its natural phenomena, such as Here places such as Borgarfjörður East photo tours it is important to learn the geysers and waterfalls and the way of life of or Melrakkasletta are visited, which are rules of classical photography. Estimating its people attracted more and more nature not currently much frequented by visitors. the light at the right moment, the structure lovers and photographers. In the beginning, Those who want to discover the Highlands of the image, graphic design elements and travellers mostly came in the summer have the opportunity to experience the the social interaction with people and their months to enjoy the midnight sun, but now Icelandic vastness and peace with a super cultures are focussed on. the winter season is gaining in popularity jeep. Here you can find plenty of wonderful FREIRAUM-Fotografie is not only one as well. The mystic Northern Lights are photo moments at colourful geothermal of the largest providers of photo travel, but definitely also a decisive factor. Iceland has fields, moss-covered volcanoes surrounded also, in terms of quality, it is leading in become one of the most popular travel all by pitch-black lava, and giant snow-white its sector. This can especially be seen at year-round destinations worldwide. glacier tongues. the high number of repeat customers on Iceland is also one of the leading In addition to the main destination of their tours. Many have already been on destinations for the photo tour operator, Iceland, FREIRAUM-Fotografie offers over ten different tours, while some have even FREIRAUM-Fotografie. The German 60 different trips to all continents. Exotic completed more than 20 tours with the company, from Glückstadt near Hamburg countries like Vietnam, Myanmar and operator. (see box), is now a regular visitor during all Costa Rica are in the programme as well seasons on the island. In the beginning, the as Venice, Tuscany, Ireland, Andalusia and FREIRAUM-Fotografie was founded in 2001 by tours were two weeks of travel around the Norway. the photographer and author Manfred Horender, country, but now more time is spent at single Besides the tours, the company also offers who still works as a referent for the company. In regions. “The country simply offers too photo workshops in Hamburg, Glückstadt 2010, Peter Fischer joined as a co-shareholder and took over the company in 2011. Since then, many impressive motifs,” says FREIRAUM and Zurich. Here beginners can familiarize the photo travel operator has taken an intense owner, Peter Fischer, who took over the themselves with various techniques and development and ranks today among the leading company in 2011 in Switzerland. For him, deal with different camera types. Practicing companies in its sector in Europe. Iceland almost became his second home. photography is just as important as its theory, The profiled photographer is one of the best and therefore pictures of participants are photography teachers on the island. discussed immediately. Furthermore, there FREIRAUM-Fotografie Germany The trips to Iceland lead to different are special courses such as portrait, macro, Glückstadt. Am Hafen 7, 25348 Glückstadt areas that are extensively visited: One trip architecture, or landscape photography Tel +49 4124 603 544 for instance leads to the far North and where participants learn to post-process [email protected] www.freiraum-fotogarfie.de East of the island, which fascinate with images on the computer. 117 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

Tempting your purse and palate with reasonably priced options The 2017 summer menu offers a tempting range of starters, soups and main dishes and even tasty vegan options such as the mushroom pattie with broccoli salad and carrot purée. For the budget-conscious there are reasonably priced main dishes such as the grilled Klaustur Arctic char with dill hollandaise, baby potatoes, fennel and leeks. Flavourful and local are keywords here as on’t let Kirkjubæjarklaustur’s welcome and it’s a great place for a healthy some of the ingredients travel no more than tongue twister of a name (church- and relaxed dinner. Talented head chef Einar perhaps 5km at most and arrive at the hotel at farm-cloister) intimidate you- Björn Halldórsson is a keen proponent of the their peak of freshness. Deven Icelanders use its more informal Slow Food Movement and his cooking is a Speaking of freshness, many of the herbs nickname, Klaustur. Armed with this reflexion of this philosophy: his new summer and greens used in the kitchen are picked new-found knowledge, consider a visit to menu focuses squarely on making use of a fresh daily from the hillsides around the hotel. the tiny village that has been in existence variety of ingredients from small-scale food Slow food at its best! since the year 1186. Full of interesting producers located in the vicinity. history, geology and folk tales, Klaustur What to see in Klaustur is a popular stopping point on the main A menu for all seasons Just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel lies south road and indeed, one of the only The famed Arctic char is bred right here in a small but beautiful pine forest at the foot places where you and your car can refuel a free-flowing stream of oxygen-enriched of a double waterfall known as Systrafoss between Vík and Höfn. glacial waters that have been naturally (Waterfall of the Sisters). Here you can picnic, filtered through layers of lava in the nearby hike to the top of the falls or just do a bit of Walk-ins welcome, but Vatnajökull Glacier. The fish, which figures ‘forest bathing’ in this genuinely peaceful reservations are always good prominently on the restaurant’s menu, tastes location, amidst some of the tallest trees in Icelandair Hotel Klaustur’s restaurant and something like a cross between trout and Iceland. The village was the site of a convent bar, which opens from 6:00pm to 9:30pm, salmon, is favoured by many chefs at top of Benedictine nuns from 1186 to 1550 and is not just for hotel guests; walk-ins are restaurants around Iceland. both Kirkjubæjar Abbey and the waterfall 118 www.icelandictimes.com and lake (Systravatn) above the village refer to this abbey. Magnificent hikes and day trips to places such as Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon and the Laki Craters are all close by while the snowy, jagged peaks of Skaftafell and Vatnajökull Glaciers beckon in the distance.

Loving the new look! The hotel has been undergoing some recent renovations; a new colour scheme of soft greens and greys and modern geometric patterns grace the café/bar and echo the moss and lava of the surrounding countryside. Extra touches such l’Occitane bath products in every room, good Wi-Fi throughout the hotel, and a copious breakfast buffet to greet you in the morning are some of little perks that will make your stay just that much more enjoyable. When the weather is fine, (which does happen in summer!), you can enjoy an espresso coffee, or maybe an excellent Icelandic IPA craft beer out on the patio. Hotel manager Sveinn Heiðar Jensson, who received his training in Switzerland, does a fine job with his staff who are friendly, welcoming and attentive to guests’ needs. Enjoy your visit to Icelandair’s Hotel Klaustur. -ÓB Icelandair Hotel Klaustur Klausturvegur 6 • 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustur +354 487 4900 [email protected] www.icelandairhotels.com/en/hotels/klaustur

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one of Heimaey’s 5,300 inhabitants was buried under thick layers of ash and had ever expected that a volcanic lava from Mt. Vesuvius. Huge parts of that eruptionN could make them homeless. historic site have since been excavated—so But on 23rd January 1973, earthquakes people on the Westman Islands rolled up started to shake the small island south of their sleeves and started doing the same. the Icelandic mainland. Only hours later ‘Pompeii of the North’ deserves its a 2,000 metre-long crevice opened just name: 40 years after the disaster some 10 outside the town and close to the church, houses have been raised from the ashes, pouring fountains of lava and ash over and an impressive museum tops off the Heimaey’s houses and streets. excavation site that had been open to Island’s Eldfjall volcano that, in 1973 rose In less than one hour all the inhabitants visitors since the very first dig. up to a height of 220 metres out of the had been evacuated, without any chance blue, not existing before its eruption. of saving their belongings. Some people A Museum as a Mirror It was similar to the submarine volcano never returned to the island. Eldheimar’s design is unique, rather that erupted in 1963 and lasted four years ominous, and yet austere. It is an archi creating the island of Surtsey, south of Heroes Saving a Home tectural masterpiece made of volcanic stone Heimaey. Two hundred brave men stayed in the that perfectly mirrors the inexorability and Nature protection laws protect Surtsey danger zone to fight the devastation, and harshness of nature. Its beating heart right and only scientists are allowed to access finally succeeded in slowing down the in the centre of the building is Gerðisbraut the island for research reasons. The island lava flow by cooling it with seawater and No. 10, the house that had been situated is part of the UNESCO World Cultural thus saved the port. However, when 5 on the slope of the lava-spewing volcano. Heritage since 2008. months later, the eruption came to its end, Having been fully excavated, it displays The Eldheimar museum is quite open around 400 houses had been completely life on the day of the eruption and now in both design and guidance in the destroyed. serves as a memorial for a lost homeland. exhibition halls as well as in the café and This volcanic eruption made headlines In Eldheimar’s over 1,000m2 museum, shop. It leaves enough space for walking worldwide, bringing back memories of the visitors are presented multimedia shows around and contemplating the natural Italian town of Pompeii which, in 73 AD, and exhibitions about the Westman disaster and its impacts on the economic and cultural life of the Westman Islands, creating respect for the determination of its fearless inhabitants, who still brave the elements today. -DT Eldheimar Suðurvegur • 900 Vestmannaeyjum +354 488 2000 [email protected] www.eldheimar.is

120 www.icelandictimes.com Going above and beyond around theThrastalundur Golden Restaurant & Mini Market Circle

ocated on the banks of the gently flowing Out on the terrace, comfortable seating on the kids’ menu include lamb soup and LSog river just 10 minutes north of the overlooks an enclosed grassy area with an inventive “create your own plate” option town of Selfoss, Thrastalundur is a kind playground equipment for the little ones, that children love. of one stop shop– stylish restaurant, mini where patrons can dine “al fresco” while market, pizza parlour and a family-oriented enjoying the sublime views of the river and Break out the Brunch place that both parents and kids can really the mountains beyond. On chilly days or No less than four different kinds of brunch enjoy. nights, guests can enjoy their meal, cozying are offered from 11 am to 4 pm on weekends– up under blankets, while gas heaters radiate the Classic, the VIP Champagne Brunch, Just a 40 minute drive from Reykjavík their warmth from above. On weekend the Vegetarian, and a kid’s brunch. They all What’s impressive about Thrastalundur is it's evenings there is live music in candlelit sound scrumptious with tempting options an unusually well thought-out concept. The surroundings that brings the ambience up such scrambled eggs, American pancakes list is long–a spacious and stylish restaurant to stellar levels. and maple syrup, Berry boost and Lemon- with seating for 100, a mini market that Lime skyr mousse, among others. stocks not only the basic necessities of The restaurant Whether you’re staying at a nearby hotel, life (toilet paper, shampoo, milk etc.) but Thrastalundur is well known for its 15 an Airbnb, or are just on your way around fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh bread different kinds of pizzas, to eat in or to the Golden Circle, a stop at Thrastalundur is delivered daily, soft serve ice take out, and baked on the premises highly recommended. -EMV cream, premium coffee, fresh in a gorgeous wood-fired brick oven. A sandwiches and even Icelandic classic Icelandic meat soup, served with Þrastalundur Restaurant chocolate souvenirs. homemade sourdough and herb butter, & Minimarket fresh fish dishes and beautiful salads are Þrastaskógi •801 Selfoss +354 779 6500 just some of the choices on the menu at [email protected] Thrastalundur. Healthy choices www.thrastalundur.is

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hile travelling in Iceland during autumn, the weather and the sun’s changingW light create a unique atmosphere in the countryside. Famous poet Rilke found appropriate words for this time of contemplation and retreat: “Lay your shadows upon the sundials, and o’er the isles allow your winds to vent”.

Enjoying Northern Lights As darkness returns in autumn, the Northern Lights start illuminating the night skies and, as Hotel Borealis is situated far away from light pollution, the darkness makes them romantic Icelandic country wedding. Hotel shine even brighter. There is nothing like Borealis also serves well as a calm retreat for soaking in the hotel’s hot tub after an exciting writing a book or contemplating the magic day as the Northern Lights dance above you! of the Icelandic changing light. When the autumn sun pours out her golden beams on In Nature’s Heart the heather and red leaves, nearby Þingvellir Hotel Borealis, just a few kilometres from the National Park turns into an enchanted charming town of Selfoss, offers the serene island. Cuddle up in a traditional wool silence of an elegant countryside retreat sweater and take a stroll through the famous while activities and bustling life are on hand former site of Iceland’s parliament, discover a short distance away. The welcomingly neat bathrooms, cosy bungalows for families and Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir on a day trip, white houses have been tastefully furnished a small villa, Hotel Borealis is able to meet try golfing on the nearby course or fishing by blending last century’s Icelandic antiques the needs of individuals and groups. in Lake Úlfljótsvatn. Then, with daylight with modern style and they prove to be so The hotel has a special room for slowly fading, return to Hotel Borealis for a cosy you might never want to leave! conferences and events and ‘Hlaðan’, a marvellous dinner, served on antique tables Offering 20 comfortable rooms with renovated barn that is a perfect location for a in the spirit of good, old Icelandic hospitality. The chef prides himself on only using local products such as highland lamb, arctic char from Lake Þingvallavatn and vegetables grown in the area’s greenhouses for his delicious meals. -DT

Hotel Borealis Brúarholt II Grímsnes • 801 Selfoss +354 561 3661 [email protected] www.hotelborealis.is

122 www.icelandictimes.com et in one of the most idyllic locations Sin South Iceland, Hellishólar offers a variety of accommodation for the weary traveller who is looking for a good night’s sleep in peaceful surroundings. The sprawling Hellishólar property is located 17 minutes from Route 1, near the village of Hvolsvöllur in the middle of Fljótslíð, a picturesque farming district sheltered by three glaciers: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Tindfjallajökull.

Cosy Cottages Why not bed down for the night in one of Hellishólar’s 25 popular, fully-furnished cottages? Each cottage can sleep from 3 to 6 people and has a small kitchen for making your own meals. If you prefer, you can also have your meals in the on-site restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

So Many Choices! At Hellishólar there is also a guesthouse and a brand new hotel called ‘Hotel Eyjafjallajökull’ with 18 spacious and comfortable bedrooms, pollution makes Hellishólar an ideal location 18 hole golf course. Hellishólar is the perfect all with ensuite bathroom. for Northern Lights viewing. base from which to explore South Iceland In summer, the long days bring optimum year round. See you there! -EMV opportunities to experience the many A Glorious View of Nature Hellishólar ehf The views from Hellishólar are, in a word, activities that are possible at Hellishólar— 861 Hvolsvöllur stunning! In winter, when the Northern trout fishing on the lake, salmon fishing +354 487 8360 [email protected] Lights are visible, one has only to step outside from the river that runs through the www.hellisholar.is the door and look up. The lack of light property and enjoying a round of golf on the www.hoteleyjafjallajokull.is 123 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet Laugarvatn’s Lindin Restaurant & Café Bistro

indin Restaurant & Bistro Café, is seasonal and features exotic dishes that Llocated on the banks of Lake can be made from reindeer, goose, duck, Laugarvatn, has a firm foundation of cormorant, guillemot, puffin, minke whale culinary excellence that attracts patrons or pan-fried arctic char. Always on the from around the world. Owner, Baldur cutting edge, you can be sure of finding new Öxdal Halldórsson, pastry and master and exciting additions to his dessert menus chef, trained at the Hotel and Restaurant such as his delectable chocolate mousse with School of Iceland between 1980–1984, raspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces received training as a pastry chef at the and white chocolate foam and his bilberry Culinary Institute of America, New York skyr mousse with crow berries and rhubarb. in 1986–1987, and attended the prestigious Richemont Professional School in Lucerne Passion for purity and freshness from 1988–1989, where he developed his Passionate about food, Baldur insists on Reykjavik takes you through enchanting interest in the art of chocolate and learnt the absolute purity and freshness of all his landscapes. Laugarvatn is half-way between the secrets behind a great dessert. ingredients. Located in the heart of Iceland’s Þingvellir and Geysir and Gullfoss, making After his training abroad was completed, ‘greenhouse belt’, he can take his pick of the it an excellent choice for a day trip to in Baldur began something of a culinary choicest fruits and vegetables grown in the one of the most scenic areas of Iceland. revolution in Reykjavik, working at many area year round. The restaurant even has You can also now stay at any time of year of the top hotels and restaurants, creating its own small kitchen garden, providing a in Laugarvatn at either the Golden Circle spectacular and sophisticated desserts that fresh supply of rhubarb, chervil, red and Apartments next to Lindin, the Gallerí were hitherto unknown in the capital. blackcurrants. The lamb and venison come Guesthouse or the village hostel to enjoy the from N.E. Iceland and are known for their Northern Lights in winter and the midnight Mecca of Icelandic Wild Game delicious flavour, fed on mountain herbs. sun in summer and the spectacular views Baldur took over Lindin The Arctic char are caught fresh from either from Lindin’s terrace and garden across Restaurant in 2002 which Lake Þingvellir or Lake Apavatn daily. the lake to the Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull has become known as the volcanoes. –EMV/ASF ‘Mecca of Icelandic In the heart of the Golden Circle wild game’, with its Lindin is located in the village of Lindin Restaurant Lindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatn lamb, fish, seafood Laugarvatn, right beside the lovely natural +354 486 1262 and game caught in sauna, steam baths and pool at the Fontana [email protected] www.laugarvatn.is the wild. His menu Spa. The 45 minute scenic drive from 124 www.icelandictimes.com uests at Halldór’s Café are greeted by day and light salads, and those with a bit of greeting old friends or new acquaintances. Gthe scent of steaming soup and freshly a sweet-tooth will not be disappoined, as The café is open all year round. Summer baked bread as they walk through the door. the menu includes home-baked cakes and opening hours are from 11:00am to 10:00 Across from Vík’s shoreline, with its black home-made ice cream from a local farm. or 11:00pm, and winter openings are from sand beaches, Halldór’s Café emphasises Originally, Halldór’s Café was the general 11:00am to 9:00pm. When travelling in the the use of only quality ingredients from store, built in 1831 to meet all of the needs area around the beautiful Vík, be sure to stop the locality in their cooking. Whether of Vík. Today, it continues to satisfy patrons at this charming café and get greeted with a be it a freshly caught salmon you crave, with its menu, which has something for every welcoming smile and a seductive menu. -JB steaks from grass-fed cattle or free range taste, using local produce, where possible. lamb served with the accompaniment of Halldór’s Café supports artists with a Halldórskaffi Víkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík locally grown greens—you can be sure that rotating display of local talent featured +354 847 8844 Halldór’s Café will deliver. They also offer on its walls, and serves up steaming cups [email protected] a variety of lighter meals such as soup of the of coffee and cake, ideal for meeting and www.halldorskaffi.is 125 www.icelandictimes.com To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018

guests. Visitors are often thrilled to learn that jams are available to purchase in the lobby, and take a tasty souvenir of their visit home with them. In addition to a modern building on the property, Hjarðarból has a structure affectionately nicknamed The Old House, which is the first house ever built in the area. This delightful house was built in 1950 and represents the history of the area. The owners are renovating at least four rooms that will be ready by Christmas, focusing on tasteful décor and the comfort of first-time and returning guests. jarðarból Guesthouse is a family- summer that was a huge hit with guests. Consider Hjarðarból Guesthouse for owned business situated in a beautiful Taking a soak after a long day of exploring a home-away-from-home experience in partH of the Ölfus district, which has the region is an ideal way to relax and South Iceland. -JG the feel of being far from the bustle of recharge for the next day of excursions. Reykjavik, but it is just a short drive away. Hjarðarból Guesthouse The guesthouse offers 21 comfortable Delicious Jams Hjarðarból • 816 Ölfus rooms ranging from doubles to family Guests will also find a delicious breakfast +354 567 0045 accommodation, and the owners debuted buffet with homemade jams prepared by [email protected] www.hjardarbol.is a hot tub facility on the property this past the owner, which is a favourite among

126 www.icelandictimes.com ocated in the peaceful village of Hella in South Iceland, Stracta Hotel is one ofL Iceland’s newest hotels, catering for every budget. Built in 2014, the hotel gets high marks for its ability to incorporate a pleasant, modern look seamlessly throughout its well thought out concept and design.

A Room for Every Budget above. Should the auroras happen to make lunch from the bistro to take with you on The hotel encompasses a wide variety of room their appearance while you are sleeping, a your journey? options—from high-end deluxe suites, each wake-up call can be arranged so you don’t with its own private hot tub and well-stocked miss this experience-of-a-lifetime event! Health, Wellness and Activities Experience Iceland via a wide range of mini-bar, right down to budget rooms activities that can be arranged at the front with shared facilities. There are also studio Healthy Food Choices Abound desk. Horse riding tours, local farm visits, apartments and spacious cottages, with Food options and choices are varied at super jeep tours of nearby Eyjafjallajökull simple self-catering facilities that are perfect Stracta Hotel. The bar and bistro located volcano or even an exciting helicopter tour for families with children. Whichever you on the ground floor is where you can order over the most famous South Iceland sites are choose, you can always count on comfortable healthy sandwiches, salads, cakes and deserts, all possibilities. Rental cars are offered at a beds, free access to the hotel’s hot tubs, coffee, teas and a variety of wines and spirits. special price for hotel guests. Fancy a massage saunas and wi-fi throughout the hotel. They also offer asian food. Guests will enjoy or healing treatment? Stracta Hotel is well the panoramic views of the surrounding connected! Local therapists make themselves countryside from the second floor dining Northern Lights Prime Time available to hotel guests and offer massages, Stracta Hotel’s prime location, situated room where a buffet style dinner is served meditation, Reiki and cranial-sacral massages. far from the light pollution of the bigger every evening. Hotel Stracta welcomes you! -EMV towns, allows guests a fabulous opportunity When the weather is fine you can take your to view the Northern Lights from October dinner out onto the balcony, or sit outside StractaVatnshellir Hotels Cave through April. Imagine yourself lounging on the patio below, where you can enjoy the Rangárflötum 4 • 850 Hella +354 531 8000 in a cosy hot tub, glass of wine in hand, as long summer nights. Planning a day out? [email protected] the Northern Lights swirl through the skies Why not purchase a freshly-made packed www.stractahotels.is

127 www.icelandictimes.com celandic Times is an ambitious magazine, memorable. Hundreds of mountain trails published in five languages, for the and caves have been mapped out, dozens multitudeI of visitors Iceland receives all of jeeps have been modified, millions have year round. Icelandic Times emphasizes been spent on logistics, and thousands of everything that can be considered Icelandic sweaters have been knitted, just for you. – the people, the food, tourism, industry and We hope you enjoy reading about these in fact anything that might give visitors a people and that this magazine will be better picture of the country and its people. helpful in making your stay more enjoyable. As you may know, Iceland has a lot to offer and there are countless individuals and companies who have meticulously laboured for years to make your stay more Managing Editor and Publisher

In Chinese, French, German...! 1–5 hours day tours for beginners to experienced riders. In stunning nature only 15 minutes from Reykjavik! www.ishestar.is Pre-booked pick up provided. 555 7000 To u r i s m , C u l t u r e a n d B u s i n e s s Issue 38 • 2018 SOUVENIR SHOP

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