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Aspelund at work in her Circolo Scandi- navio studio.

132 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM MAY 2018 Art in Rome

Text & photos EMMA HOLMQVIST DEACON The shape

Meles Meles by Aspelund. The winning of beauty entry of a 2017 Oslo public art competition.

Sculptor Christine Aspelund’s work is celebrated in her native Norway and beyond. We catch up with the creative in Rome, during her residency at artist haven Circolo Scandinavo.

e’re up here!” Christine Aspelund’s unsettling quality about it – is the man resting peacefully friendly voice echoes as we climb the or has he collapsed? Shortly after it was installed on the W sweeping staircase to greet her at Circolo grounds of the Oslo and Akershus University College Scandinavo, which occupies an enormous of Applied Sciences in 2013, the police received a call apartment in a 17th century building in Rome’s Traste- from a worried local about a dead man. “My intention vere district (Scandi connection – it’s opposite Palazzo with the sculpture, of which I created three identical Corsini, where Queen Christina of Sweden spent the versions, is not to shock – rather it’s a comment on the last 35 years of her life). The faxen-haired Norwegian body’s vulnerability,” Aspelund explains. sculptor is one of the Nordic association’s six artists in The Oslo-based artist, who has received many awards residence. They’re in good company – Henrik Ibsen, for her work over the years, always uses live models Selma Lagerlöf and August Strindberg count among when creating sculptures of humans. “It’s perfectly pos- Circolo Scandinavo’s previous guests, the busts of whom sible to make a sculpture from a photo, but there’s al- rest atop an antique cabinet in the foyer. ways a risk that you’ll start repeating things from mem- Aspelund is due to stay in this creative retreat – which ory,” she observes. welcomes artists, composers and writers – for six weeks, during which time she’ll nurture her art and give talks HUMANS WEREN’T needed for her latest creation, Meles on her craft. She says she couldn’t think of a better place Meles. The winning entry of a 2017 Oslo public art compe- than Rome to do it. “This city is so inspiring,” she en- tition, the sculpture – which brings to mind a mini-moun- thuses. “All its churches, frescoes and medieval mosa- tain with caves carved into it – was installed on the lawn ics, there’s incredible art wherever you look. To me, art of Voksen Skole primary school. Look closely and you’ll in Rome is a bit like food – I consume it!” discover a pair of bronze badger cubs curled up in one of The Norwegian has a particular fondness for Gian the burrows and their mother hiding in another. “Chil- Lorenzo Bernini’s work, admiring the baroque sculp- dren are so tied to their computer screens today, so I pro- tor’s talent for articulating emotion via the human form. posed a sculpture for the outdoors that would encourage She’s in the right city. “The way Bernini conveys expres- play,” Aspelund explains. The sculpture was carved on sion is amazing, and I take every opportunity when in her home turf from Norwegian granite. “I chose granite Rome to study his marble sculptures from every angle.” as it’s impossible to destroy. I love seeing the children climb on it, jumping from one side to the other, stroking ONE OF ASPELUND’S most famous works is Lying Low, the badgers and placing sticks inside the little caves. They a male nude cast in bronze, commissioned by KORO sometimes smother the whole thing in sludge, and that’s (Public Art Norway). The stretched-out fgure has an fne – it’s art, but not the precious kind.”

MAY 2018 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM 133 2 Art in Rome

2 Photo: Francesco Radino/Fondazione MAXXI Radino/Fondazione Francesco Photo:

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BAR SAN CALISTO time before it had offi- I often pop into this cially opened, without CHRISTINE simple, typically Italian anything in it. I remem- place for a morning cof- ber thinking, this place ASPELUND’S fee and a snack. They needs no art – it’s the world run the stalls – I serve drinks in the eve- most amazing sculp- bought some nice jew- ROME ning too. Located in the ture all by itself! elry from an Afghan heart of Trastevere, it’s Via Guido Reni 4/a man on my last visit. When in Rome, Norwegian always full of locals as maxxi.art You have to be pre- sculptor Christine Aspelund it’s cheap and cheerful. pared to do quite a bit consumes art “like food,” Piazza di S. Calisto 3 DA ENZO of sifting to find the but she also fnds local life RESTAURANT good stuff, and make endlessly inspiring. Here are BASILICA DI SANTA One of my favorite sure to get to the mar- a few of her favorite places. PRASSEDE Trastevere trattorias, ket early – it opens at 1 There is so much art serving traditional Ital- 7am. to see and enjoy – all ian food. It’s always Piazza di Porta Portese 3 the churches, frescoes, busy as the food is and medieval mosaics good and the prices SANT'EUSTACHIO IL – speaking of which – affordable. CAFFÈ Basilica Di Santa Pras- Via Dei Vascellari 29 This famous heritage sede is one of the plac- Daenzoal29.com coffee house near the es I keep returning to. Pantheon will serve you Via di Santa Prassede 9 PORTA PORTESE the best coffee you’ll santaprassede.wordpress.com FLEA MARKET ever taste, made from 3 This Roman flea home-roasted beans. MAXXI market is huge and Ask for an Il Gran Caffè 2 One of my favorite you’ll find anything you – my favorite! museums of contem- can imagine here – Piazza di San Eustachio 82 porary art in Rome. I from soap to antiques. santeustachioilcaffe.com went here for the first People from all over the

134 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM MAY 2018

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