I TIIE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

Journal

Number 15

1991 Preparing to descend to Taplejung from "the spectacular ridge top" of Suketar airstrip in East Nepal: see article "Off the Beaten Track"

Hataka maila sunaka thaila ke garnu dhanale Saga ra sisnu kaeko besa anandi manale

(jor translation and comment see page 11) THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Journal Number 15 1991

WE'VE TAKEN TIME 0 FF CONTENTS FROM OUR 5 Editorial INVESTMENT PROGRAMMES 7 The( Society's News by Joanna Thomas 9 Nepali Literature - An Introduction o INVEST IN THIS ONE. by Michael Hutt 14 Nepali Studies at SOAS: an Update 15 An Evening in the Chelsea Physic Garden by Iris Perowne Bolton 17 Nepal at the Redbridge Library by Mayura Brown 18 Bhutan - Land of the Fire Dragon 21 Trees of Nepal 22 The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust by Charles Wylie 27 A 100 Year Family Connection With Nepal 28 The Britain-Nepal Otology Service by Neil Weir 30 Obituaries 32 Off the Beaten Track by Charles Wy lie 37 The Society's Annual Nepali Supper by Mayura Brown 38 Book Reviews BARCLAYS de ZOETE WEDD 44 • Notes on the Britain-Nepal Society

., THE INVESTMENT BANKING ARM OF THE BARCLAYS GROUP

3 2 EDITORIAL Looking Back and Ahead

The fifteenth number of our Journal ap­ We regretted not being able to entertain pears in a world very different from that Major-General and Mrs. Ganesh Prasad to which our first number was offered only Mahara during their recent but all too such a short time ago. But the Society short visit to this country. We had hoped continues to flourish and to make an in­ to see them on the 6th August at the Chel­ creasingly worthwhile contribution as the sea Physic Garden where many of us en­ contents of this number clearly indicate. joyed a delightful evening but that very Public Health When the first number was published, day they were at the Passing Out Parade containing memorable articles by John at Sandhurst where their son, Sudhir Ma­ worldwide expertise at your service Sanday ("The Conservation of the hara, was awarded the Cane of Honour as Hanuman DhokaPalace"), Tony Schilling the Outstanding Overseas Cadet. General ("The Road to Everest"),Terry White Mahara was formerly Liaison Officer with ("Some Birds of the Himalayas"), Jon the Brigade of Gurkhas. ICI Public Health offers a range of products Fleming ("Incidents on Everest"), the In referring to the Botanical Gardens at and expertise for the control of the world's major President of the Society was Arthur Godavari in Nepal, in last year's Journal nuisance and vector pests including mosquitoes Kellas, the Chairman was Paul Broomhall (page 22), our distinguished contributor which spread malaria. and the Honorary Secretary Cynthia Ste­ omitted to mention the part played by phenson. Dr. EA.C. Herklots CBE, VMH, in estab­ The major products are 'Actellic' (pirimiphos­ Cynthia handed over to Celia Brown lishing them and our attention has been methyl) - a broad spectrum organophosphorus shortly after and Celia, as we all know, drawn to the omission by Mr. Richard insecticide and 'Icon' (Iambdacyhalothrin) - a then embarked upon her twelve-year stre­ Willan whose letter we gratefully ac­ highly active broad spectrum synthetic pyrethroid. nuous tour of duty during which she ac­ knowledge. This number contains a con­ complished so much, as Lord Hunt tribution from Tony Schilling who was For further information about JCI's Public Health reminded the AGM (if indeed those pres­ also so closely involved at Godavari in the products please contact: ent needed reminding) at the Nepalese early sixties and indeed with Nepal and Embassy last November when thanking the Himalayas ever since. Readers will see ICI Public Health her on behalf of the Society and making a that he intends to retire shortly after 28 Fernhurst, Haslemere suitable presentation. years at Wakehurst Place and 32 years in Surrey, GU27 3JE The aim of our Society is still as stated all with Kew. Our congratulations to him United Kingdom in that first number - "to promote and and our thanks for the happy suggestion Tel: (0428) 654061 foster good relations between the peoples that our members should pay another visit Fax: (0428) 655439 of the United Kingdom and Nepal". Noth­ to Wakehurst soon. Telex: 858270 ICI PPF G ing could be clearer. There has been much talk about the Some back numbers of the Journal are future of the Gurkhas in the British Army probably still available and members now being restructured. It is probably too Before using pesticides always read and wanting them should apply to our present early to say anything very definite except understand the product label. Honorary Secretary, Joanna Thomas. Cer­ that a future seems assured. Certain it is tainly copies oflast year's Journal are still that whatever eventually is arranged the available. close and friendly relationship between

4 5 our two countries will continue well into the future. (See article "Off the Beaten THE GURKHA THE SOCIETY'S NEWS Track".) WELFARE TRUSTS It remains only to thank His Excellency After nearly twelve years Celia Brown these he had developed following a trek­ the Nepalese Ambassador and Madame Archway North "retired" as Honorary Secretary. She was king holiday in Nepal and provided relief Simha for all the help and encourage­ Old Admiralty Building only the seventh secretary of the Society and treatmen t for a large number of people ment enjoyed by the Society during the Spring Gardens and served longer than anyone else. I with ear problems. year and to add a special word of thanks London SWlA2BE agreed to take over as Secretary for an The Committee would like to thank all to Mr. Badri Prasad Khanal, Counsellor at interim period. the speakers who have kindly given time the Embassy, for the keen interest he has Tel: 071-2184395 Although I served on the Committee to give the talks to the Society. taken in the Society throughout his tour of when Colonel Eric Mercer was Secretary duty in London. (See article "An Evening some years ago, I have recently been more III The Annual Nepali Supper. This was in the Chelsea Physic Garden".) remote from the affairs of the Society; so held at the Kensington Town Hall (just off I have had a lot to learn both about current Kensington High Street) on 11th March, events in Nepal and about the many facets 1991 - this was the only available date. of being Secretary to the Society. Though attendance was down on the pre­ In the past year two traditions have vious years, it was a very successful eve­ changed. The Winter and Spring meetings ning for those who came. The Duke of are now held at the Society of Antiquaries Gloucester, our President, was the Guest and the Nepali Supper is no longer being of Honour and impromptu Nepali dancing held at New Zealand House, due to its no completed the evening. A report appears longer being available. Instead the Supper elsewhere in the Journal. was very successfully held at the Kensing­ AJAV SIMHA ton Town Hall. III The Summer Event. This year the out­ DIRECTOR ing took the form of a visit and reception III Monthly Meetings. On Monday 22nd at the Chelsea Physic Garden where a October, 1990, "Water from the Hills" by farewell was given for Mr. RP. Khanal, p~fT.X)Lfoo Mr. Chris Waiters and Mr. Roger Brown Counsellor at the Royal Nepalese Em­ from Binnie & Partners who are corporate bassy, who returns to Kathmandu. oepaL members. ~~ (eaROpe) ttO.. On Tuesday 8th January, 1991 Mr. III Yeti Association ofthe UK. SO that the TRAVEL CONSULTANTS TO NEPAL & BEYOND Tony Schilling talked on "Bhutan: The two Societies can work together more Land of the Fire Dragon" about his recent closely, an informal supper took place at botanical trek to Bhutan. the Natraj Restaurant in June 1991. It was On Wednesday 6th March, 1991 Dr. a successful evening, and it was agreed to Michael Hutt from the School of Oriental meet again in another six months. and African Studies talked about "Nepali Yeti Association Writers I Have Known". Dr. Hutt had (Nepali Association in U.K.) 3rd FLOOR. worked in Nepal for some time when stu­ Dr. Raghav Dhital, 3 WELLINGTON TERRACE. dying for his PhD. 48 Cheyne Avenue, BAYSWATER ROAD. LONDON W2 4LW On Tuesday 30th April, 1991 Mr. Neil South Woodford, TEL: 071- 229 3528 & FAX: 071 - 243 0321 Weir spoke on Ear Surgery Camps - London E18 2DR

6 7 r III Ties and Scarves. These are available The membership of the Society is now either at meetings or on application to the over 500. In reviewing the work of the NEPALI LITERATURE: AN INTRODUCTION Secretary. The cost is £7.00 including Secretary, the Committee decided it was by Dr. Michael Hutt postage and packing. prudent to have a member of the Commit­ tee responsible for membership and Mr. In March 1991 I was kindly invited to a of the most important and popular works III The Annual General Meeting. Last Peter Roberts OBE agreed to take this on. meeting of the Britain- Nepal Society, of Nepali literature: innumerable editions year's AGM was held in November 1990 I should like to thank all the members where I spoke on the subject of poets and have been published, and it is memorised at the Royal Nepalese Embassy, and the of the Committee and Society for the help poetry in Nepal. I was subsequently asked and sung at celebrations and religious Minutes will as usual be circulated with and support during my first year as Secre­ to write something along these lines for feasts throughout the kingdom. the AGMNotices. This year the AGM will tary. In particular I would like to thank the Society'S Journal, but I fear it would The works of Bhanubhakta Acharya be held at the Embassy on 21stNovember, Colonel Jimmy Evans, Chainnan, for his be diffic ult to reproduce on paper the com­ were first brought to light by Motiram 1991 by kind pennission of His Excel­ advice and support. bination of readings of poetry and pictures Bhatta, who published the Ramayana in lency Major-General Bharat Keshar of Nepali life and landscapes I presented 1877, and a biography of its author in J oanna Thomas 1891. In the biography, Bhatta relates the Simha. on that occasion. On the other hand, itmay Honorary Secretary be that readers will be interested to know popular but historicall y improbable tale of a little more about the history of literature Bhanubhakta being inspired to write his in Nepali: few of the 300,000 foreigners Ramayana by a chance meeting with a who visit Nepal each year are even aware grass-cutter: of its existence, after all. And as a friend of Nepal, it seems appropriate for the So­ He'd devoted his life to the cutting of !----~~~-~--~------1 ciety to draw attention to the richness and grass, sophistication of its modem literary cul­ And now he is a wealthy man, ture. He'd wondered what to leave to !NATURETREII I The fact that Nepali is Nepal's national posterity, WALKING WILDLIFE HOLIDAYS language, the mother-tongue of 60% of its And then he commissioned a well. DEVISED BY HIMALAY AN WILDLIFE EXPERT DAVID MILLS people, and a vital lingua-franca for the The grass-cutter comesfrom a home remainder, ensures that it is also the lan­ which is poor, I The wildlife found in the world's most beautiful mountain regions is often as spectacular as guage of the bulk of the country's lit­ But his wisdom's beyond compare, the scenery itself. We walk at a leisurely pace, and enjoy the two together, taking rest days to discover the birds, mammals and flowers in off-trail forests and side valleys, under the erature. But this literature is not ancient: While I, Bhanubhakta, am richer guidance of an expert naturalist. We have time to photograph, sketch and note what we see in western Nepal some inscriptions have than he, and to take advantage of all the cultural aspects of each trek. been found which date back to the four­ But no works of charity can I claim: RMA LAKE - the wildlife of W. Nepal- with David Mills teenth century, and a small number of My wealth and belongings are all LMG'I'MG - the best of a Nepalese Spring - with Paul Jepson genealogies, translations of Hindu scrip­ inside my house. BHUTM - birds & flowers of the last Shangri-la - with David Mills & Jim Gardiner 'I'mE'I' - the botanical paradise of Namche Barwa - with Tony Schilling ture, royal pronouncements and poems Such a great lesson he taught me today: survive from the seventeenth and eight­ Accursed my life without fame or I PLUS OTHER NATURAL HISTORY TREKS & TOURS IN \ eenth centuries, but the frrst major literary renown! \ KASHMIR· LADAKH . ZANSKAR achievement dates from the mid-nine­ 1\ SOUTH INDIA· NEW ZEALAND AUSTRALIA· KENYA· ZAMBIA teenth century. Because of the censorious attitude to­ 1\ ETHIOPIA' MOROCCO' BOTSWANA This was a Nepali adaptation in rhym­ wards literature of some previous admin­ INDONESIA· GALAPAOOS . EASTERN TURKEY \ For our brochure please contact David Mills ing metrical verse of the Ramayana leg­ istrations, its development within Nepal 1 Chautara.Bighton. Nr. A1resford. Hampshire S024 9RB. England end and its author was a Brahmin named was retarded during the early twentieth \ Tel: (0962) 733051 Fax: (0962) 733368 ._---_...-_-----...... ---...-...... -...... - ...... -- Bhanubhakta Acharya (1814-68). Bha­ century, and the most important innova­ nUbhakta'sNepali Ramayana remains one tions owed much to Nepalis resident in

8 9 I too believe in God. holy man. leave her. They have become a kind of I loo believe in God, proverb: But between your God and mine There is the difference of earth and sky, hataka maila sunaka thaila ke garnu Him you see when you close your eyes dhanale In clouds of silent contemplation, saga Ta sisnu khaeko besa anandi Him I see with my eyes wide open, manale In the dear sight of every man. Purses are like the dirt on your The short story was established writers like Guru Prasad Koirala, whose What can be done with wealth? moralistic tales of Nepali village life re­ Better 10 eat nettles and greens main popular today, and Bishweshwar With l1f.iJlf}UII::SS in your heart. Prasad Koirala, Nepal's firsl elected Prime Minister, who drew on sources as Nepal emerged with great suddenness diverse as Freud, Maupassant and Tagore into the wider world outside, and this is to produce several works of superb fic­ reflected by the speed at which the country tion. and its literature have changed. During the Towering over all his contemporaries twilight years of the Rana regime, an im­ was Nepal's first great modem poet, Lak­ portant group of writers centred on the Dr. Michael Hutt with the Nepali poet Mohan Koirala smiprasad Devkota (1909-59). Devkota's Kathmandu journal Sharada, and the Sha­ in Kathmandu in December 1987 mastery of English was excellent, and his rada era represents a kind of explosion love for the English Romantic poets - into modernity. Indian towns such as Drujeeling and Be­ His Majesty King Tribhuvan invested particularly Wordsworth - was a forma­ With the advent of public education, nares. The most notable poet to emerge in Lekhnath Paudyal with the title Kavi Shi­ ti ve influence. Towards the end of his life, the number ofNepali writers grew rapidly Nepal was Lekhnath Paudyal whose romani, "Crest-Jewel Poet", which is his egalitarian instincts made him a politi­ and poetry remained the most important poetry represented a kind of bridge be­ often translated as 'Poet Laureate'. But cal exile, and his intellectual curiosity and popular form of literature. Unfortu­ tween the classical traditions of Sanskrit Lekhnath's inspiration sprang from time­ drew him into experiments with Greek nately, the Nepali poetry of the 1960s was verse and the new school of simplifica­ honoured traditions, and he is not con­ mythology. Devkota was extraordinarily often extremely obscure: as liberals and tion. Most of Lekhnath's poems were sidered authentically modern. Many prolific: though chiefly renowned for intellectuals, many poets were disturbed devotional and philosophical, and they writers who came after him were strongly dozens of volumes of poetry, he also wrote by His Majesty King Mahendra's dismiss­ combined a profundity of thought with a influenced by English literature, and dur­ essays, stories and novels. His best-loved al of the Congress government in 1960, formal clarity of expression that was un­ ing the 1930s the urge to modernise - to work was a forty-page poem entitled and felt the need for an opaque code in precedented in Nepali: catch up with the world outside - became Muna and Madan, published during the which to express their feelings. Neverthe­ clearly apparent. Balkrishna Sama, a 1930s but still Nepal's best-selling book: less, 'Dimensionalist' poets such as Bair­ She plays the lute of the tender soul. member of the ruling Shamsher family, over 7,000 copies are bought every year, agi Kainla and Ishwar Ballabh - both now Plucking a thousand sweet sounds penned rather Shakespeanan plays which even now. members of the Royal Nepal Academy­ With the mind's gentle nails dealt with contemporary social issues and The poem tells the story of a young published intricate, powerful poems As she sits upon the heart's opened are still among the classics of Nepali man from Kathmandu who travels to Tibet which are still famous today, and the ab­ lolus: theatre. Many of Sama's poems put for­ to seek his fortune: many Nepalis know stracted, poetic stories of Indra Bahadur May I never forget,for the whole of ward humanistic views which were radi­ the following lines, spoken by Muna, the Rai are evidence of a distinguished talent. my life. cal for their time: young man's wife, as she begs him not Other than these, the most influential The goddess Saraswati.

10 11 poets have been Mohan Koirala (b. 1926) / see the bright white teeth of the east, Michael J. Hutt: Nepali: ANational - Diamond Shamsher Rana: Wake of the and Bhupi Sherchan (1936-89). Koirala's Scrubbed regularly clean; Language and its Literature. White Tiger (Novel translated by dense, symbolic poems have been appear­ There falls upon some corner of my New Delhi and London. Sterling Pub­ Greta Rana). Kathmandu: Balika Rana, ing for over forty years and they represent heart lishers/School of Oriental and African 1984 a unique view of the world as seen from A but penetrating blow: Studies, 1988 the streets of Kathmandu. He can hardly Ah, my life is going towards its end; Royal Nepal Academy: Modem Ne­ be called Devkota's successor, because A certain amount passes each day, Michael J. Hutt: Himalayan Voices: paH Poems. Kathmandu, 1972 their poetry differs but the 'in",vun om like toothpaste. An Introduction to Modern Nepali poetry of Mohan Koirala, if properly Literature. Berkeley: University of David Rubin: Nepali Visions, Nepali translated, would be Nepal's second great Great advances have been made in Ne­ California Press, 1991 Dreams: The Poetry of Laxmiprasad contribution to the world of modem lit­ pali fiction. The short story is increasingly Devkota. New York: Columbia Univer­ erature. popular and sophisticated, and after a Shankar Koirala: Khairini Ghat sity Press, 1980 shaky, cliched start the novel is well-es­ (Novel translated by Larry Hartsell). The sweet wind tablished. One of the most interesting Kathmandu: Ratna Pustak Bhandar, Shailendra Kumar Singh: Contempor­ Unobstructed, trouble-free, novelists is Parijat, whose fust novel Blue 1984 ary Nepali Poetry. Kathmandu, 1989 In the where I drew warm breath Mimosa was published some years ago in And a child with English translation. Nepali drama has suf­ Parijat: Blue Mimosa (Novel translated Abhi Subedi: Nepali Literature, Back­ In this corner of the world fered from the enormous popularity of by Acharya and Zeidenstein). ground and History. Kathmandu: Is the courtyard where I once crawled, Indian cinema, but plays are staged regu- Kathmandu, 1972 Sajha, 1978 Here are the cold stones, the warm and theatre is also used as a means of graves education in areas where low literacy le­ Kumar Pradhan: A History of NepaJi Of my loved ones who have died. vels prevail. Nevertheless, poetry remains Literature. New Delhi: Sahitya So, numbed by the chill gusts and white - the most important genre of Nepali lit­ Akademi,1984 frosts, erature, and recent years have seen the By the cold, the sorrow, the shame, emergence of a new generation of highly death andfamine, talented poets who seek to write in simple To this hearth that warms me language for a mass readership. I offer my kiss of love. The recent changes in Nepal can only benefit Nepali literature, which will no NAT J Bhupi Sherchan is known chiefly for a doubt continue to' fruit and flower' (as the collection of poems entitled A Blind Man Nepali saying goes) in its homeland. It The First Restaurant to Introduce in a Revolving Chair, published in 1969, richly deserves to be better-known beyond and his poetry is much simpler and more the hills, and I hope the following book­ Nepalese Food to London widely popular than Koirala's. Most list will be of use to Society members who poems are grand and ironic satires of con­ wish to acquaint themselves better with temporary Nepali society, and are justly this little-known aspect ofa land for which OPlEN DAIlL Y 12 to 3 & 6 to 12 famous: they have such affection. 93 Charlotte Street LONDON WIP lLB Every day, Banira Girl: From the Other End Dawn comes secretly like a thief, (Translated poems). New Delhi: Nirala Telephone: 071-637 0050 or 071-6364995 And it squeezes me a little. Publishers, 1987 I am woken by the touch of sunbeams, For reservations contact ISHWAR MANANDHAR

12 13

[ NEPALI STUDIES AT SOAS: AN UPDATE AN EVENING IN THE CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN Dr. Michael Hutt Summer Event and Visit - 6th August, 1991

The previous issue of this Journal con­ lain, the establishment of links with the An evening visit was arranged for us this family, is leaving shortly to return to Kath­ tained 11 brief report on Nepali and Hima­ tourist industry and so on. We hope to year to that wonderful secret oasis that lies mandu. Our Chairman, Colonel Jimmy layan Studies at the School of Oriental and establish a Scholarships Fund which will between the rushing traffic of the Em­ Evans, spoke to us about him, recalling his African Studies in the University ofLon­ enable us to invite scholars from Nepal to bankment and Royal Hospital Road. arrival in 1987 shortly before the stock don. Dwing the past year a great deal has spend time at SOAS for research pur­ Astonishment and delight registered on market crash and the Great Storm. (Noth­ been achieved to ensure that the recent poses, and members of the Society ex­ every face as members and their guests ing to do with him, protested Mr. Khanal.) expansion of the subject at SOAS will be pressed considerable interest in the idea of were ushered through the insignificant He also reminded us that Mr. Khanal had maintained in the longer term. Members recording and preserving the Nepali folk­ little door in the high brick wall to find been a lecturer in English Literature be­ of the Society may like to know the cur­ songs so beloved of Gurkha soldiers. themselves in the lush and peaceful green fore he became a diplomat and was posted rent position (as of July 1991). We do need guidance and advice from world of the Chelsea Physic ,Garden. in succession to New Delhi, Moscow and The fact that our endeavours are bear­ members of the Britain-Nepal Society to As the forecast had been for dull and London. He praised his work for the So­ ing fruit owes much to the kind and bring these plans to fruition, and we will showery weather the initial proceedings, ciety including his unfailing attendance at generous support provided by His Excel­ be approaching individuals who have ex­ with wine and 'small eats', had been ar­ committee meetings and, on behalf of the lency the Royal Nepalese Ambassador pressed an interest during the months to ranged to take place indoors. The Curator Society, presented Mr. Khanal with a cul­ Major-General Bharat Keshar Simha, and come. Meanwhile, I hope that members of the Garden, Sue Minter, began by wel­ glass "ship's" decanter, adorned with a to the interest shown by members of the will continue to support our work as they coming us to the second oldest botanical silver wine label inscribed: Britain-Nepal Society. His Excellency have in the past, and will feel free to garden in England (only Oxford is older) very kindly hosted a Reception at the Em­ contact us at SOAS if they would like which was founded in 1673 by and for the Mr. B.P. Khanal bassy on 27th June, 1991 which gave rep:. further information. Our mailing-list for Worshipful Society of Apothecaries of Britain Nepal Society resentatives of SOAS, including the seminar programmes etc. will, I hope, London so that their members and appren­ August 1991 Director, Mr. Michael McWilliam, a valu­ continue to grow and grow! tices could study botany and learn what able opportunity to meet a wide variety of disorders each plant could cure: for at that Mr. Khanal then spoke, expressing people who have strong links with Nepal. Dr. Michael Hutt time botany was still part of medicine. The thanks for the decanter and his regrets at In general, our aim is to establish Ne­ The School of Oriental and Garden had been deliberately sited by the leaving London. He exhorted members to pali studies on a sounder and more perma­ African Studies river so that the apothecaries could row up visit Nepal and while there, him and his nent basis at SOAS by increasing the Thomhaugh Street in barges from Blackfriars. family also. numbers of students attracted to the sub­ Russell Square Miss Minter drew our attention to the Those of us who met here were also ject as a part of a degree course, and also London WCIH OXG Historical Walk down the western side of glad to welcome Eleanor Kinnear's guest, by providing a greater variety of educa­ the Garden where we would find of inter­ Natasha Karpovich, a member of the Rus­ tional services to the wider community. Tel: 071-323 6240 est the Robert Fortune planting; he was sian-Nepal Society in Moscow and a one­ Suggestions received at the Reception in­ Fax: 071-637 2388 x 2440 Curator from 1846-48 and introduced time lecturer there in Nepali studies. The cluded cultural briefing sessions for aid­ many plants to Britain from the Hima­ two were meeting again for the first time workers, a summer-school for younger layas, as well as tea from China to India. since 1970 when they were both in Kath­ members of the Nepali community in Bri- Medicinal research continues in the Gar­ mandu, Natasha studying Nepali and den to this day; Glaxo works there screen­ Eleanor working as a physiotherapist at ing plants for new drugs. the hospital. Our special guest for the evening was The formal part of the evening being Mr. B.P. Khanal, Counsellor at the Royal over, members and their guests (ninety­ Nepalese Embassy, who, with his wife and five in all) then drifted off in small groups

14 15 to take a closer look at all the fascinating 5646, is open to the public on Wednesdays things in the Physic Garden. Fortune and Sundays 2-5 pm 17th March to 20th NEPAL AT THE REDBRIDGE LIBRARY, ILFORD smiled on us and forecast notwithstand­ October. by Mayura Brown ing, we had a dry and bright evening to do The freehold of the Physic Garden was our own bit of medicinal plant study. Al­ presented to the Society of Apothecaries The Exhibition, which took place last year their members, including an engineer who together a delightful evening and indeed by Sir Hans Sloane (after whom Sloane (13th November - 19th December) had just returned from an eighteen month secondment in Nepal. Their display fo­ one to remember. Square is named) when he purchased the stemmed from an idea of Mr. Neil Thome, manor of Chelsea (1721). He was Presi­ MP for nford South and Chairman of the cussed on the development programme in electricity in Nepal, and highlighted the Note: For those who missed this most dent of the Royal College of Physicians Britain-Nepal all Party Parliamentary enjoyable evening visit, the Chelsea 1719-35. Group. He wanted to interest the local difference between electrical systems in Physic Garden, 66 Royal Hospital Road, school children in Nepal, its religion, cul­ Britain and Nepal, and the work being London SW3 4HS, telephone 071-352 Iris Perowne Bolton ture and history, and with examples of done by their engineers. Mr. Dodwell said: recent development programmes in elec­ "London Electricity is committed to sup­ tricity and water in which IQcal businesses porting development projects in Nepal, have participated. This undertaking, spon­ transferring expertise and technology sored by London Electricity, was co-ordi­ used in the U.K.". nated by Mr. Mike Dodwell, Engineering The accompanying photograph shows Manager at their local office. the Sundarijal station which was con­ His Excellency the Nepalese Ambassa­ structed in the early 1930s and was the dor opened the Exhibition and warmly second power station in Nepal. Although thanked all those whose efforts had made well over 50 years old the machinery it possible. On show, beside the London (made by the English Electric Co.) still Electricity's display, were photographs of operates daily. From its installation it was Nepal, various artefacts, national dress, in the charge of the late Mr. R.G. Kilbume, books about Nepal, and the combat dress OBE, MlEE, who was appointed success­ of the legendary Gurkha soldier. ively to the 3rd and 2nd Class Order of the The many guests included the Mayor Prabala Gorkha Dakshina Bahu by His of Redbridge, Mrs. J ulia Roberts, officials Majesty King Tribhuvan. These honours from Redbridge Borough Council, repre­ were bestowed for his devoted and effi­ sentatives of local businesses, and head cient services during his period of duty in teachers of the schools in the area. Nepal as Chief Electrical and Ropeway Mr. Thome was presented with a medal Engineer. . by the World Development Movement (Value for People Pledge), for his untiring work for the people in the Third World. This organisation is a cross-party pressure group campaigning for the world's poor on aid, trade, debt and the environment. Mr. Thome is to be congratulated, and it was encouraging to see his endeavours London Electricity Engineers in a small Hydro Electric recognised. Power Station in the Kathmandu Valley During an excellent lunch provided by (see article opposite) London Electricity, we were able to talk to

16 17 "The Asian Valley (Westwood Valley) the Britain-Nepal Society will re-visit BHUTAN: LAND OF THE FIRE DRAGON at Wakehurst Place (which includes the Wakehurst again in the very near future in Himalayan Glade) had been seen by Bri­ order to enjoy a little bit of ''Nepal in tain-Nepal Society members on their Sussex". On Tuesday 8th January, 1991 Mr. A.D. cliffs of immense stature the journey led various visits, but an entirely new venture "My only real regret is that the long­ Schilling, M.Arb., EL.S., ER.G.S., FJ. eastwards by road over three dramatic - The three acre Trans-Asian Heath Gar­ hoped-for Himalayan bridge which is Hort., V.M.H., Deputy Curator of the passes covered in dense cool-temperate den - which has been created following the planned for Westwood Valley has not yet Royal Botanic Gardens Kew and Wake­ forests ablaze with many different species devastation of the great stonn of October become a reality. We have, however, built hurst Place, gave an illustrated talk en­ of rhododendrons, magnolia and many 1987, includes a large section in which a stone Chautara (backed by a weeping titled "Bhutan: Land of the Fire Dragon". other attractive trees and shrubs, the most will be grown the dwarf rhododendrons of juniper which will serve as a shade tree) This took a large audience at Burlington exciting of these being the recently re­ the Himalayan regions. sited at the edge of the Himalayan Glade House (Society of Antiquaries) from the discovered Rhododendron Kesangiae "Many other Asian plants in other parts and adding character to the feature." tea plantations south of Darjeeling north­ which is named in honour of the Queen of the gardens (Winter Garden, Walled Our best wishes and congratulations eastwards over the border of Bhutan to the Mother in Bhutan. Gardens, Water Gardens etc.) reflect my and we look forward to visiting Wakehurst town of Phuntsholing and thence up stee­ The journey eastwards terminated in intense interest in the HimaJayan flora again to enjoy that little bit of "Nepal in ply through the foothills via warm tem­ the Bumtang Valley at the town of Jakhar. over the years I have been here and I hope Sussex". Ed. perate forests and spectacular scenery to From here the party carried ou t a one week the town ofParo. trek in the superb pine-clad forests of cen­ After viewing the incredible Tigers tral Bhutan returning to Bumtang via the Nest Monastery set above sheer mountain Tang Chu Valley. The journey home was by more or less the same route with stop- overs in the .. lowland town of Wangdiphodrang and Bhutan's capital Thimpu. The highlights of the experience were too many to item­ ise but one was left with an overall picture of the intense beauty of this virtually un­ spoilt and remote Buddhist Himalayan Kingdom. It was very apparent that the King of Bhutan's sensitive and wise con­ trol of tourism has so far safely guarded the cultural values and natural resources of this lovely country from exploitation and all who shared the evening at Burling­ ton House will hope that this will continue to be the case. Tony Schilling writes: "As you know I have decided to take early retirement from Kew after 25 years lakat Tourist Lodge with lakat Dyong beyond. at Wakehurst Place (32 years Kew service Bhumtang Valley, C. Bhutan in all including 2 years seconded to HMG Nepal in order to develop the RBG Goda­ Masked Dancer in Timpa, C. Bhutan vari).

18 19 TREES OF NEPAL

In a contribution to last year's Journal Sir Sissoo) and Khair (Acacia Catechu) and Arthur Norman. Chairman of me King other less important species; Mahendra U.K. Trust foc Nature Conser­ • mixed deciduous forests in which the ALBERT E SHARP vation, referred 10 the promotion of "small predominant or important trees are the hydro-electric schemes" aimed at lessen­ Asna (fenninalia tomemosa). the Semal Britain's leading independent Stockbrokers ing the pressure on the forests of Nepal, (Bombax malabaricum). the Toon (Ce­ The problems arising from deforestation drela Toona); and and Financial Advisors are of course well known to our readers, • moist savannah forests, largely consist­ many of whom are ac tive and generous ing of areas of tall grasses, the haunt of suppon.ers of the }(jng Mahendra Trust. rhinoceros and tiger. Based in the Midlands close to the industrial The following extract from a description heartlands with offices in Birmingham, London of the trees of Nepal, although written 2) The Temperate Zone may be divided and Bristol over sixty years ago by J.V. Collier or the into two zones: world-renowned Indian Forest Service • a belt between 4,000 and 8,500 ft, con­ Founders with British Telecom of "Sharelink" (ror Perceval London's "Nepal"), is or taining the Oaks, Maples and Pines; and more than merely academic interest today. • the forest above 8,500 ft in which the Providers of development finance through SUMIT Mr. Collier was in charge of various pro­ Spruces, Firs, Cypresses and Larches are jects afrecling Nepal in his time. thechief species. Although this temperate Leading PEP scheme ·manager (with over £70m "While it is the quality of her Gurkha zone is of comparatively little commer­ soldiers", wrote Mr. Collier, "that has cial importance, it fulfils a purp:>se even subscribed by clients) made the name of Nepal ramous through­ more important to Nepal than that of a out the world, yet Nepal is a1moslequally source of revenue, by supplying the dense Private client funds under management of over renowned ror the extent and quality of her population of these middle altitude tracts £2 billion forests." with their fuel. timber and grazing re­ Mr. Collier continues: ..... the Nepal quirements. rorests can be roughly classified into three Albert E Sharp & Co main altitude zones: 1) the tropical zone, 3) The Alpine Zone, above 10,000 ft ... Edmund House, 12 Newhall Street, Birmingham B33ER up toabou14,000 ft; 2) the temperate zone, Its characteristic trees are Rhododen~ Telephone 021-200 2244 Contact; Peter M Reynolds from 4,000 to 10,000 ft; and 3) the Alpine drons and Junipers." zone, from 10,000 ft to the limit of tree Davies House, 1 Sun Street, London EC2A 2EP level at about 16,(0) ft. Telephone 071-638 7275 Contact:John Magney The address in London of the King Spectrum, Bond Street, Bristol BSI 3DE 1) The Tropical Zone ... "begins with a Mahendra U.K. Trust for Namre Con­ Telephone 0272 260051 Contact: Nicholas Hutchen belt of forest stretching out into the Tarai servation remains unchanged. It is: plains, and consisting of four very distinct

M""b .. ~r IAt Lo~". " SI ••t &tM~l' nil of types of forest. which are: 26 LiUle Chester Street Th. St

20 21 TIlE BRITAlN·NEPAL MEDICAL TRUST by LieUlenanl Colonel C.G. Wylie ., '" 'TheEWlOr has asked me 10 write about the In this way our work. has extended be­ Trust as it is some lime since the Society yond 1B and Leprosy trealment and we heard about it. Now in its 23rd year the now opera te three other major pro­ Trust (BNMT fe.- short) has changed a lot grammes: drug supply, community health since Lhe lale Dr. John Cunningham and education and health training, all in close his original team drove overland to Nepal and happy co-operation with the Nepal and offered their services 10 the Nepalese authorities. GovemmenL After helping and lrnining staff at the RegionaJ Hospil.a1 in Biratna­ Dr ug Supply gar, they received permission la set up a This programme aims 10 make essential TB and Leprosy clinic in Dhankuta. This drugs available to al1 at affordable prices was !he rust of Ihe eight clinics we now throughout the year. The Govemmentcan operate in the hill districlS of the Eastern ani y afford to provide hospitals and health Regionofllam, Phidim. Tapiejung, Tehra­ posts wi th a limi ted. quota. BNMT supple­ thwn, Kha ndbari. Bhojpur and Diktel. as ments the Government supply le ensure well as Dhankuta. year- round availability. To make thispro­ At first the Trust was very much an gramme financiall y viable BNMT intro­ Dr. Bob Fryau inslructing in. lM Bhojpur drug amateur organisation. depending heavily duced., with the full agreement of both scheme u minar oUlside Ihe BNMT clinic on the emhusiasm, pioneering spirit aild patients and local authorities, a system initiative of the team members. Today we whereby the patient pays a small ftxed. Community Health went to jhankiris, or tradilional healers, or are much mote professiona1. Aims and charge for each prescription. This money This programme has evolved over the past else remained at home hoping to recover. objectives are carefully defined, moni­ is then used for buying more drugs. A pilot ten years in conjunction with similar pr0- The CHV has le show that the methcx:ls tored andeva1ualed. Hea1th data and stat­ project was started in Bhojpur, and the grammes operated by the Government used by Government health staff and by istics are recorded. computerised and "bugs" were ironed OUl BNMT now runs and other NGOs. The Government has BNMf are more effective. This requires a disseminated to interested organisations further projects in Taplejung and Panch­ recently set a target of one female Com­ considerable knowledge of basic medical world wide. We have been described by a that Dislricts, while in KhoWlg a similar munity Health Volunteer (CHV) in every principles which we in the west take for WHO expert. as the most effective NGO scheme is being run from the start by the ward by the year 2000. A CHY has to granted. The problems are immense. To (non-government organisation) he has Dislrict Public Health Officer with only know the basic principles of health and begin with vinually all volunteers auend seen in an y developing country. supervision from BNMT. Much interest hygiene. He or she has a small firstaid box BNMf li teracy classes. Pupils walk huge From the beginningourexpatriate staff has been shown in these schemes both by with which to deal with minor problems. distances after work each day for evening (not all are Bri tish: we have employed the Department of Health and local health The village has le raise the funds to replen­ classes, poring over their books on the Americans, Canadians, New Zealanders, authorities. They could become the pat­ ish the box. The CHV's main job, how· floor by the light of a candle or hurricane Dutch and Norwegians 100) have lived tern throughout U ~ country. ever, is to persuade the sick to visit the lamp. We aim to make 1800 women lite­ under the same conditions as the local BNMf also runs some 26 drug shops nearest Government hospital or heaJth rate this year. people, eschewing status or privilege. throughout the region where simple me­ post This is not so easy as it sounds. The next problem is to teach the prin­ They are thus in the best position 10 assess dicines such as aspirins can be bought at BNMT recently conducted a focus study ciples of basic health and hygiene, not the people's health needs, to suggest sol­ cost price, plus a small percentage for the of health post usage in Tapeljung Dislrict only to CHV's but through them, via utions and plans to the local Nepal auth­ retailer. Ponerage charges are paid by which showed that the great majority of Women's Groups, to the villagers. Deep­ orities, and to implement them. BNMT. local people, for a number of reasons, rooted misconceptions of the causes of

23 disease have to be eradicated and replaced BNMT hostel, followed by ten monlhs raising and the recruitment of expatriate by new concepts which many find diffi­ taking tablets at home. However, as the staff. There are a number of technical cult to grasp. Most villages covered by the patient gets better he or she often SlOps committees, and a small executive office BNMf CH programme now boast aOOol taking the tablets. This causes a relapse in Tonbridge, 80% of households with charpis (deep and further treatment is much more diffi­ Operational management is entirely latrines) in use, many even more. The cult since the patient is then resistant to the responsibility of the Director in Nepal. same applies to smokeless 'chulos' (cook­ normal lreatmenl BNMT had to employ Each of the three major programmes isco­ ing places), another simple but effective full time defaulter chasers to visit patients' ordinated by one of the expatriate team health aid introduced by BNMf. homes to check. that they were taking their members, who keep in close touch with Our excellent learn of twelve Nepali tablets. the relevant technical trustees committee CH trainers also train Government health BNMf hope to improve the present in the UK. Once a year the Director at­ post staff, including village health system by adopting a shorter regimen tends the Trustees conference in the UK workers. They also operate a "street using different drugs. This does not in­ where plans for the following year are theatre" performing playleLS to put over volve injections; so patients do not have discussed and agreed. Six months later simple messages on TB and the treatment to be admitted to our hostels. Last year we one of the Trustees visits the team in Nepal available. These shows, given to schools began a four year operational trial of this and reports back to the Trustees in the UK. and at week1y "hat bazaars", are popular shorter, six months, regimen at four of our This solves much of the inevitable diffi­ and effective. clinics. Results will be compared with culty of communications. co- ordination The CH programme is also tackling the those at the four other clinics which are and conllol. Telex and frut have also problem of how to increase conlaCt and still using the standard regimen. Hope­ greatly helped. understanding between the very large • fully the new system will be one which An important step forward was taken and the Government can more readily use in last year by the formation of a Nepali staff numbers of traditional healers the for­ Taplejung clinic-in-charge B.B. Gurung other areas. management committee. This committee mal health care system. We hope to in­ examining sputum slide crease referrals of TB patients by Patrons is now resJX)nsible for all mattersconcern­ traditional healers to our clinics and to BNMT is greatly honoured to enjoy the ing our 100 Nepali staff and for making Government health posts. A Norwegian TB and Leprosy Royal palfOnage of HRH the Prince of recommendations to the Director. Amem­ anthropologist seconded to BNMT has The programme continues to be as necess­ Wales, whose affection for Nepal is well ber of the committee recently qualified at been studying this problem forthe last two ary as ever. Despite curing some 600-700 known, and of HRH Princess Helen of a Diploma course in Heallh Management years and the results of her work together patients a year and rendering the sputum Nepal who takes an active interest in at Manchester University. with similar studies outside BNMT are of as many lung patients non-infectious, BNMT operations in Nepal. OtherpalfOns Funding now being worked oul TB wiU not be eradicated, as it has been in includes Sir John Crofion. the world re­ BNMf now has an annual budget ap­ All this has resulted in a greatly in­ the west, until economic conditions in nowned authority on TB in developing proaching £500,000. We are fortunate to creased demand for training, not only of Nepal improve radically since the disease L countries, Lord Hunt and Chris Bonning­ have the support not only of many our own staff (eight expatriates and ten tbriveson malnutrition. Leprosy isa lesser IOn. generous individual donors, many from Nepalese) and that of other NGOs, but problem and there are a lot fewer patients. Management the Society, but also ofa number of major also of Government health workers and Nevertheless BNMT cures aboot 700 Le­ Overall management is exercised by a agencies such as Oxfam, Christian Aid, even ofDistrictPublic Hea1th Officers. To prosy patiems annually. BoardofTrustees in the United Kingdom. ICCO of Holland and LID.. of Norway. meet this demand we have set up a Train­ All our eight clinics are now run effi­ Numbering sixteen at present, the ma­ ICCO recently commissioned an evalu­ ing Unit in Biral1lagar, complete with ciently by Nepali staff, trained by BNMf jority of Trustees are ex Directors or ex ation of BNMT by an independent team modern training aids and staffed by ex­ and with many years of experience. The mernbers of the team in Nepal. They are ofexperts. Chaired by a German. this team perienced instructors. headed by an ex standard TB treatment regimen involves responsible for policy decisions, fund spent three weeks with BNMT in Nepal. Peace Corps Volunteer. daily injections for two months at the

24 25 Their comprehensive report, happily fa­ tainly seem that there is a clear need for vourable, should help us to mise further BNMT for some time to come. Our role A SPECIAL CENTENARY funds in future. has changed from purely curative me­ A 100 Year Family Connection with Nepal Earthquake reconstruction dicine to one mainly of supervision, train­ Society members will remember contri­ ing and support for Government Health Exactly a hundred years ago (1891), World War I. Colonel Charles has a hunt­ buting to the Nepal Government fund for Services. This role will continue to change Major-Geneml H. Wylie, C.SJ., C.I.E be­ ing dagger presented by the Archduke to relief following the disastrous earthquake as national and local circumstances came British Resident in Kathmandu and his grandfather. of 1988 which covered almost exactly the change, but there is still a long way to go I have the permission of his grandson, As resident, Major-Geneml Wylie had same area as BNMT. The Trust itself man­ and BNMT with its long experience can, Lieutenant Colonel Charles Wylie, Vice­ an escort of 70 Indian sepoys (the smallest aged to mise nearly £60,000, enough to I believe, still contribute a great deal to the President of our Society, to record the fact unit in the Indian Army). Their "lines" in rebuild its own clinics and hostels and also health and well being of our goods friends for our readers. Charles Wylie's father, Kathmandu were known as Line Chaur. to build new quarters for the staff of two the stalwart people of Nepal. who spent his early years at the Residency No longer in existence, the name now government hostels in Panchthar District. and got to know the young Ranas very describes the area of Kathmandu close to We are most grateful to all who con­ The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust well, was selected to be the conducting the site of the old Residency. tributed. office address is: officer to the Mahamjah and Prime Min­ Colonel Charles himself served with What of the future? There is now a new ister Sir Chandm Shamsher lB. Rana and both the 1st and the 10th Gurkha Rifles Government in Nepal and much will de­ 16 East Street his entourage of fifteen, including all his and was Military Attache in Kathmandu, pend on their policy towards NGO's. Vi­ Tonbridge sons, on what amounted to a State Visit to as many of our members are well aware. siting Nepal recently it was obvious that Kent. TN9 IHG King Edward VII in 1908. He accompa­ We feel very privileged to record this re­ the country was more than ever heavily Tel: 0732 360 284 nied the distinguished party by sea both markable century-long connection of the dependent on foreign aid. It would cer- ways. He was of course by this time a Wylie family with Nepal. Ed. serving officer. Originally 4th Gurkhas, he later commanded 2/1 GR (1925-30) and BINNIE&PARTNERS from 1930-34 was Chief Recruiting Of­ THE GURKHA MUSEUM ficer for Gurkhas. At Gorakhpur he built CONSULTING ENGINEERS at - the pensioners' lines (quarters), did much PENINSULAR BARRACKS for their welfare and was given the Star of WINCHESTER WORKING IN NEPAL SINCE 1971 Nepal by the Mahamjah and Prime Min­ ister Sir Joodha Shamsher J.B. Rana. He has been open to the public More than 100 years' experience of was, like his father, C.I.E. for about 18 months and improving life of people throughout the world All three generations were invited on has had nearly 20,000 visitors. tiger shoots - grandpa and father by Rana Prime Ministers and Colonel Charles by Open Tuesdays to Saturdays • Rural & Urban Development • Water Resources the King - a unique record indeed! One and Public Holiday Mondays. • Institutional Strengthening • Water Supply of the other guests on the shoot with 10 am to 5 pm grandpa was the Archduke Fmnz Joseph • Hydropower • Sanitation of the Austro-Hungarian Empire whose Tel: 0962 842832 • Irrigation • Training murder in Samjevo in 1914 sparked off

llead Offu:e: Grosvenor House' (f) London Road· Redhill • Surrey RHl lLQ • UK

26 27 I an anaesthetist joined a Nepali team and If anyone wishes to learn more of the THE BRITAIN-NEPAL OTOLOGY SERVICE (BRINOS) operated for twelve days. On average activities of the Britain- Nepal Otology by Mr. Neil Weir of BRINOS about seventy major ear operations were Service and would like either to make a performed together with minor contribution or receive a colour brochure, At the end of April this year I had the such a survey will enable BRINOS to operations. Betweenl,200 and 2,000 out­ please write to me at privilege of talking to the Britain-Nepal assist in the planning of primary health patients were also seen and treated. Dur­ BRINOS, Society about the work of BRINOS, care for ear disease. ing these camps every opportunity was which I founded together with a fellow The current population of Nepal is ap­ taken to teach young Nepali surgeons. 2 West Road, Guildford GUl lAU. Ear, Nose and Throat Surgeon, Stephen proximately 18 million. The survey has BRINOS has been very fortunate so far Metcalfe in 1988. I first visited Nepal on shown a high prevalence of hearing im­ in the donations it has received in order to holiday in 1987 and met Dr. Lakshmi Pra­ pairment (6.9% of the population, or 1.24 purchase the expensive equipment re­ sad, lately Senior ENT Surgeon to the Bir million people) and chronic otitis media quired to perform micro ear surgery. In Hospital, Kathmandu and Royal Ear Sur­ (8% or 1.44 million people). A large pro­ order to continue this work and to intro­ geon. He told me of the vast numbers of portion of deafness, particularly in the duce new projects a 'fighting fund' of people suffering from ear disease who younger age groups (55% in the school £100,000 is urgently needed. were unable to receive primary care and age or 682,000 children), is associated who in the majority of cases were equally with otitis media. 61 % of individuals unable to seek hospital treatment unless aware of ear disease (428,220 people) they were able to make the journey to have never attended a health post and of Kathmandu. I returned the following year those who have, 66% were unsuccessful with Stephen Metcalfe and whilst on a trek in their treatment. in the Lantang Valley we worked out how From these statistics it can be seen that we could help the Nepalese ENT surgeons the problem is indeed huge and that if a Coromandel in their daunting task. By the end of 1988, significant proportion of deafness in Individually tailored travel to BRINOS, a registered charity, had been Nepal is to be prevented, particularly in Nepal and throughout the formed with the following objectives: the school age group, the effective recog­ subcontinent. Brochures on all these from To assist Nepalese ENT surgeons in nition and treatment of otitis media has to providing expert treatment to those people be introduced by the training of health David Sayers Travel Andrew Brock Travel Lld suffering from ear disease living outside workers in ear disease. Escorted natural history 10 Barley Mow Passage the reach of the ENT departments in Kath­ BRINOS is now keen to support a pilot tours. 1991 programme London W4 4PH mandu. scheme to train some existing health includes 'Nepal the Easy Tel: 081-9953642 (24hrs) To help in the training of young Ne­ workers in ear disease and to study their Way' and Gorkha Himal Telex: 9419369 . palese doctors making a career in ENT effect in six villages (total population Spring Trek. Fax: 081-742 1066 surgery. about 15,000 people). Other services such To raise funds for instruments and to as teachers of the deaf and the provision West Himalayan Holidays send highly qualified people to take part of hearing aids, will also be introduced Group and individual in ear surgery operating camps until such together with a vi~~~ing fortnightly ENT trekking in the Kulu Valley, time as there are sufficient Nepalese sur­ outpatient service. Lahoul and Zanskar. geons to staff the Regional and Zonal Hos­ For those people with established pitals. chronic ear disease BRINOS has been To help organise and execute a nation­ able to assist with three operating camps wide survey of the prevalence of deafness held in Pokhara, Biratnagar and Dharan. and ear disease in Nepal. The results of Two British surgeons, theatre nurses and

28 29 a moped. At the age of 66 she took a bus giving her a certificate of fitness for a OBITUARIES from Clapham Common to Agra - "so cruise to the Antarctic, but died before she much more amusing than flying". Going could go. to Nepal she trekked to Everest base Dorothea was a regular attendant at Madame Bhuban Singba She began climbing when she was four, camps and round the Annapurna circuit meetings of the Society and her zest for on the roof of her home in Yorkshire. Her The sudden death of Madame Bhuban climbing Dambush. nearly 20,000 feet. life, her refusal to bow to old age, her mountain apprenticeship, however, began Singha on 9th September last year was a She was back in Europe to join a meet unfailing cheerfulness and good humour in the '30s, ski-ing and ski mountaineer­ great shock to her many friends. She came from the LAC during which she traversed are sadly missed. ing with her husband in his native Italian to London as a young girl when her father all fIve summits of the Fiinffingerspitze. Tyrol. But it was not until she was 50 that was Nepalese Ambassador during the last She was still climbing and camping at she took up climbing seriously. With her War, and all through her life she retained 71. At 84 she attended her last Alpine Charles Wylie son Chris she climbed regularly in Britain a great affection for Britain. meet. At 85 she bullied her doctor into and the Alps, including ascents on the Bhuban was the principal founder of Matterhorn, the traverse of the Weisshorn the Britain-Nepal Society, and organised and the Peuteret ridge of Mount Blanc. its inaugural Reception at the Dorchester Younger members of the Ladies' Al­ Hotel when His late Majesty, King pine Club were impressed by her fast and Mahendra, paid a State Visit to Britain in competent climbing when she led the 1960. She became our first Chairman, a North ridge of the Weissmies, racing post she held for a year before returning ahead of other parties. Those who drove home. As a Life Member of the Society with her found her fast driving more she maintained a keen interest in its pro­ frightening than any climb, but it never led gress and achievements. to disaster. Fully supported treks throughout the Himalayas Our newer members will remember her Her first expedition to Nepal was as from Pakistan and ladakh to Nepal and Bhutan. as a very charming hostess when her hus­ Deputy Leader of the ill-fated Women's band, Sri Jharendra Singha, was Nepalese International Expedition to Cho Oyu, the Whether your goal is a cultural journey or gentle Ambassador in London from 1978-83. To sixth highest mountain in the world. When walk on a first time visit to the world's greatest him we have sent our deepest sympathies. the French leader and three others were mountain chain, a view of Everest or an attempt at Bhuban will be sadly missed. killed in avalanches, Dorothea took over scaling a trekking mountain such as Mera Peak (21,288 ft), we have leadership and climbed to 24,000 feet on the right trip for you. Mayura Brown a rescue attempt. Our free full colour brochure is packed with exciting opportunities Three years later, aged 57, she led an for those with the spirit of adventure. Have you got your copy yet? all women's expedition in Kanjiroba Countess Dorothea Gravina (22,450 feet) in Western Nepal. Although Exodus Expeditions (dept. BN), 9 Weir Road, London SW12 OLT Dorothea Gravina died in July 1990 at the she failed to reach the top through tempor­ age of85, as briefly recorded in last year's ary illness, she made the fIrst ascents of all 081-6755550 (days) 081-6730859 (24 hrs) Journal. Her unquenchable enjoyment of three summits of KagIllara. mountains and adventurous travel was in Her travels took her fIrst to Africa in the the mould of those other great women solo '20s where she climbed Kilimanjaro, per­ travellers, Freya Stark and Ella Maillart. hap; the frrst ascent by a woman. She Had she lived in an earlier age and had she always preferred an adventurous mode of been inclined to talk or write of her ex­ travel. When President of the Pinnacle ploits, she might have been as well known. Club she rode out to their Alpine meet on

30 31 cariously along the ridges below the ma­ OFF THE BEATEN TRACK jestic gleaming frieze of the HimaJayan Centenary Celebrations in East Nepal range, and we were touching down on the tiny airstrip at Rumjetar. After the smog, The banner on the triumphal arch read The plan for the Nepal celebrations was noise of traffic and hustle of Kathmandu "Welcome to the Centenary Celebrations to make a five day whistle-stop tour of the it was like stepping out into a new world. of the 10th PMO Gurkha Rifles". The arch Eastern Hills, so that the maximum num­ A world of smiling faces, flowers and had been erected over the entrance to the ber of pensioners could take part. The fIrst neat fields amid a stillness broken only by Gurkha Welfare Centre at Rumjetar as gathering was in Kathmandu on 29th Oc­ the beat of a Madal (drum) in the distance part of the regiment's centenary plan for tober where quite a number of pensioners and the laughter of girls working in the regimental pensioners in Nepal. are now employed. This was a formal fields. We were in the Hills again. Other centenary events had already evening party, a collar and tie occasion, A short walk brought us to the Area been held in Brunei where the battalion with all the trimmings. There were about Gurkha Welfare Centre. A large crowd of was on the actual birthday, 1st May, with a hundred ex- servicemen present. Beer pensioners lined the path and we were the Sultan of Brunei taking the salute at flowed, 'bhat' was consumed and the air festooned with marigold 'phulmalas' until the centenary parade, and in the U.K. for was thick with reminiscences as old we could hardly see. Tankards were members of the Regimental Association, friends met again. Here as at all other pressed into our hands and we were off! with the Princess Royal present at a Beat­ centres, the Colonel of the Regiment, So began the first of four similar celebra­ ing of Retreat by the Regimental Pipes and Lieutenant General Sir Garry Johnson, tions on consecutive days at four welfare Drums and those of the Royal Scots, our made an excellent speech in Gurkhali, and centres. At each centre there seemed to be affiliated regiment. a regimental piper played the regimental more pensioners than at the last. At Phusre, near Dharan, there were no less A 93 year old pensioner of the regiment, than seven hundred. Altogether we met who made the long journey to the about eighteen hundred. Phurse celebrations: The parties began in the morning and Rifleman Dhanjit Rai continued without a break until the eve­ ning when the beer ran out. Old friends march and a lament for the fallen. met again and laughed as old times were After a few short hours' sleep we took recalled. Madals and the old familiar off in a Nepalese Army light plane piloted songs wafted over the hills as old limbs by a Lt. Colonel in the Nepal Army, whose creaked into action in uninhibited dance. father had served in the Gurkha Brigade. Many had travelled far in spite of age or It was a brilliant crystal clear morning, the disability, often helped by their comrades. skies swept clean and fresh after the rains One such, 93 year old Rifleman Dhanjit - Nepal at its very best. Our party con­ Rai, had been carried to Tumlintar airstrip sisted of General Garry, the C.O. and the and given a free ticket for the flight to Gurkha Major of the battalion, two British Phusre. Officers who had served with the regiment As the last pensioners left to begin the during and after the last war, the Piper, and long walk back to their homes, us weak­ me. lings from the u.K. would be glad to sit An eagle's eye view of trim terraced down and have a break. We were not hillsides and toy-like villages strung pre- always successful. In Rumjetar, the Limbu ex-servicemen doing the chiebrung nach at the Phusre Welfare Centre

32 33 Gurkha Major (Himraj Gunmg, whom bounded, though fortunately the family of Kanchenjunga. From the airstrip we We were glad to have them at this last members of the Society will have met was not quite so large. This proved to be descended some 1,500 feet to the Welfare party where there were more pensioners during his tour in me as Queen's u.K.. only the second of four similar carefully Centre, to enjoy our fourth day with pen­ than at any other. Many of the regiment's Gurkha Orderly announced that planned "ambushes" on our way back to sioners, this time virtually all Limbus. In senior Gurkha officers had settled in or this was his and we were an in- me Centre. We slept weU during the few the morning we had, of course, to make near Dharan and they kindly laid on a vited to his hoU!se~ There his extended renlaJJlmg hours of the long pull back up to the airstrip. As we special buffet supper for the u.K. party. '''"V_two in were assembled. Next morning announced that had been "ambushed" the evening before Every detail was meticulously observed We were 'tikka-ed', and plied instead of me short, half- hour flight to by Tibetans and lured into sampling their and we might have been back in the with 'rakshi' and rice beer it seemed, Bhojpur, he would fly us up to Everest delicious but lethal 'tongbas' of 'chang', Gurkha Officer's Mess twenty years be­ everyone mere. It was real Gurkha hospi- This was an unforgettable experience for it was a somewhat weary, but very happy, fore. and we were not allowed to get off us and particularly interesting to me. an party that boarded the plane for our final As we left Phusre the banner at the gate The flight was over all too soon. flight back to the plains. read "See you at the next centenary". Alas As we tottered back torchlight the After anomer splendid day at Bhojpur Here at the Phusre Welfare Centre we this was before defence cuts. G.M. said we were passing his brother-in­ we flew on next morning to the spectacu­ were joined by me ladies. The Hills trip law's house and we must just pop in to lar ridge-top airstrip of Suketar, high had been judged too strenuous for them. Charles Wylie greet him. Here again hospitality was un- above Taplejung, with magnificent views

Oldfriends meet at the Rumjetar Welfare Centre (East Nepal) and welcome the Colonel of the Regiment

Pensioners at the Bhojpur celebrations

34 35 EXOTIC MEALS IN A THE ANNUAL NEPALI SUPPER Mayura Brown ROMANTIC ATMOSPHERE This year we had to find a new venue for Nepali, daughter of Khagendra Nepali of For Authentic Nepalese Food our Nepali Supper as New Zealand House the B.B.C. Overseas Service, enchanted come Johnnie Gurkha's is undergoing repairs. We decided on the us with a most graceful and beautifully Great Hall of the Kensington Town Hall, executed Nepali dance, Sabash! where the friendly staff will Welcome you, and discovered an advantage - the exten­ When these dinners are over, one and the Nepalese Surroundings sive car-park underneath with a lift bring­ comes away with the feeling that what­ ing us up to the entrance of the Hall. ever upheavals take place in the world, no will ensure your Comfort. Despite the 'Desert Storm' in the Gulf matter what happens in political circles, and the attendant worries about terrorism, the friendship between the peoples of we found the usual ch~rful gathering Nepal and Britain will endure always. with many members coming from far afield to attend. We had the special honour of having our President, H.R.H. The Duke Please ***remember - of Gloucester, as most welcome and prin­ Johnnie Gurkha's cipal guest. He was greeted on his arrival ADDRESSES by the Vice-Presidents and later met many at Down-Town area, of our members and guests. The two Ne­ page Victoria Road, palese House-mothers from the Pestalozzi Village were also presented to His Royal The Gurkha Welfare Trusts 6 Aldershot, Hampshire. Highness. Supper time is the occasion for lively Yeti Association 7 conversations and the exchange of news Telephone: Aldershot*** (0252) 28773/23191 before the speeches and the toasts that are TheSchool of Oriental and drunk to both Their Majesties, in Britain African Studies 14 and Nepal. Our President read out a gra­ * cious message from Her Majesty The The King Mahendra U.K. Queen and said how pleased he was to be Trust for Nature Conservation 21 among us, a sentiment warmly recipro­ Please visit once - then always! cated. H.E. The Nepalese Ambassador, The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust 26 We Open 7 days a Week for Luncheons and Dinners. General Simha, also spoke and mentioned The Gurkha Museum 27 We cater for large Parties, Functions and Banqueting. the Elections that were to take place in I wish you all a Sincere Season's Greetings. Nepal for a new Government. We were very sorry that Madame Simha was un­ The Britain-Nepal able to be present. A message of fraternal Otology Service 28 Johnnie Gurkha's greetings was received from Mr. Sagar Sl.B. Rana, President of the Nepal- Bri­ Honorary Secretary NEPALESE CUISINE tain Society. The Britain-Nepal Society 43 An interesting innovation provided us with a delightful experience. Little Alka

36 37 r ruct, military and political, lay ahead". Gurkhas, too, got involved in the Game BOOK REVIEWS In January 1857 Henry Lawrence was and it was Grant of the 8th Gurkhas who by Lieutenant-Colonel T.M. Lowe summoned by the then Governor General won the VC in Tibet in 1904. (Lord Canning) to be Chief Commis­ Hopkirk's book is large and heavy, but Adventure Treks - Nepal by trying to understand the Nepalese vil­ sioner at Lucknow. It was not a long post­ is is an interesting read and full of enter­ Bill O'Connor, Crowood £9.95 160 lagers where she spent two years. It is ing. Henry died during the siege, as the taining anecdotes about things that hap­ pages (paperback) clear that she made efforts to establish a result of a wound from an exploding shell. pened whilst the Great Game was being This is a companion volume to O'Con­ rapport, but as a social anthropologist Anyone who has served in India would played. nor's 'Trekking Peaks of Nepal'. It deals from Oxford University she didn't find it do well to read this book and learn some­ with what O'Connor says are the ten best easy. thing about the high quality of the sort of treks. Each trek is sketched out on a day­ 'A Window on to Annapurna' by Joy men who served in the Indian Empire. to-day basis. Particular problems are high­ Stephens was reviewed in the B- NS Jour­ Tales of the Gurkhas by Harold James lighted and the logistics involved are fully nal No.12 of 1988; it was a more percep­ The Great Game by Peter Hopkirk The Book Guild £10.95 explained. The maps which you would tive piece of writing. John Murray £19.95562 pages This entertaining and well-written book require are mentioned. A final chapter is Peter Hopkirk cannot be accused of hav­ consists of stories dealing with a fIctitious excellent and includes just about every­ Lawrence of Lucknow by Sir John ing visited the lands of the Great Game for Gurkha Regiment from the later years of thing you will want to know before you Lawrence, Hodder & Stoughton £20.00 just a few hours and then returned to write the last century to the Second World War set off on an adventure trek. 275 pages up his story and pass judgement on what in this one. It will revive many memories The author is a very experienced Brit­ The author is a great-grandson of Law­ he has seen. What Hopkirk has to say among those who served with the Gurkhas ish trekker and also a mountaineer who rence of lucknow and, in the tradition of about the Great Game is based on personal and should introduce a new generation to runs his own Adventure Travel Company. the Lawrence family, a writer of some and extensive visits to the landscapes in the courage, loyalty and great sense of distinction. Not all the Lawrences were which the Great Game was played out. humour which distinguishes these brave Nepal - The Mountains of Heaven by soldiers, but Henry, the subject of this The principal players were Britain and men. David Paterson, Hamish Hamilton biography, was trained as an artilleryman. Russia, but it was Afghanistan which was The descriptions of the various areas in £30.00 176 pages In due course, however, he became a most always in the middle of what went on. which the incidents take place, and the A very large book full of superb photos all distinguished administrator. Many of the players in the Great Game characters involved, are so skilfully in colour, not only of the mountains of The Punjab was that part of the sub­ became well known, many were fairly presented that one can believe it all really Nepal, but also of people of both sexes and continent where Henry's best work was young and not a few were soldiers of the happened. It was a surprise to read about all ages. Separate chapters cover particu­ done, for he was a man with a fIrst class British and Indian Armies. The time they a Gurkha soldier who joined the French lar areas such as the Annapurna Sanctuary brain, a great capacity for hard work and spent taking part in the Game afforded Maquis but such a person did exist. Major and Makalu. A helpful introduction to the the ability to get people to work with, and them some relief from the more monoto­ James, however, has provided an imagin­ book has been provided by Sir Edmund for, him. Henry's brother, John (who later nous lives they might have had to spend ary episode for his Gurkha hero. Hilary who ends with the words 'the great became Governor General) and Henry in garrisons in India. One fInds in this book a tribute to the Himalayan summits could be surrounded didn't always see eye to eye. The author Those places where the Great Game fidelity of Gurkha soldiers, many of by desert, unless massive efforts are made puts that into perspectiv~. was played can now be visited, some on whom have given their lives for the British to control the population and to protect It was in 1843 that Henry found himself package deals, when even the Russians Crown. Let us hope that time will not erase and enlarge the forest areas' . in Nepal as Resident whose public work have to tread warily. The Chinese and the the memory of their unswerving gallantry, according to HerbertEdwardes "consisted Indians have also joined in the Game, but and that their legendary prowess will be Against a Peacock Sky by Monica of studiously doing nothing but observing for them the Game lacks a certain style remembered always. Connell, Viking £14.99 212 pages everything!" Henry's health recovered which characterised encounters in the A number of somewhat similar books during his time in Kathmandu. This was past. Mayura Brown have been reviewed in the Journal. Miss just as well because "war drums were Connell has found some difficulty in beating and eight strenuous years of con-

38 39

I I! SOME OTHER BOOKS OF INTEREST (Contributed by Colonel T.M. Lowe) ~IN'I The Himalayas by Bob Gibbons The Honourable Company - a history Batsford £14.95 of the English East India Company LIGHt M nEP.HL by J. Keay Harper Collins £20.00 The Pyrenees by Bob Gibbons and TANDOORI AND CURRY Paul Davies Batsford £14.95 ¥ounghusband and the Great Game RESTAURANT by A. Verrier Cape £18.00 (Fully Air Conditioned) The Alps by Bob Gibbons and S. Lee Pr/llale room allailable for up 10 40 persons. Batsford £14.95 Hill Stations ofIndia by G. Wright Parties catered for The Guide Book Company clo Hodder 268 KING STREET. HAMMERSMITH Stubai by John White LONDON W6 OSP TELEPHONE: 081-7~8 3586. 081-741 2057 Crowood Press £9.99 The Endless Knot by K. Diemberger Granon £25.00 Forgotten Land - a rediscovery of Burma by H. O'Brien Joseph £15.99

WITH COMPLIMENTS • Explor BRITORION Nep I BRITORION LIMITED ALEXANDER HOUSE STATION ROAD \1IeTElRlfl ALDERSHOT * HAMPSHIREGUII1BQ ~ TR~\7EuS & TElllRS Pe uTI9.

Tel: (0252) 344454 Contacting Address in the U.K. Fax: (0252) 23417 Rari B. Karki, 118E Roratio Court, Kingston Road, Wimbledon, London, SW19 lLY Tel: 081-543 4113

40 41 NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

Patron: H.R.H. Prince Gyanendra B.B. Shah of Nepal President: H.R.H. The Duke of Gloucester, GCVO

Our aim is to promote and foster good • a Spring or Summer outing to a place relations betwen the peoples of the United of interest; Kingdom and Nepal. The Society was • receptions and hospitality for visitors founded in 1960, under the patronage of from Nepal; THE GURKHA MUSEUM His late Majesty King Mahendra Bir Bik­ • the AGM in November and an annual ram Shah Deva of Nepal during his State supper party in February or March. Visit to London: Lord Hunt became the We keep in touch with the Nepal-Bri­ first President. tain Society in Kathmandu which the late British and Nepalese subjects, and H.H. Field Marshal Sir Kaiser, a Life business firms or corporate bodies resi­ Member of the Society, founded shortly dent in Britain or Nepal are eligible for before his death. membership. The Britain-Nepal Society has a grow­ Members include serving and retired ing membership and there is tremendous Is now open at Gurkhas, mountaineers, members of the enthusiasm for Nepal. Our meetings, Diplomatic Service, schoolmasters, doc­ which are usually well attended, provide tors, nurses, businessmen and scholars. an excellent opportunity for members and Ordinary members pay a subscription their guests to get together. Our member­ Peninsula Barracks of £lOper annum. Life Members - a single ship, not counting Honorary Members and Romsey Road payment of £150 and Corporate Members Corporate Members, is now well over five £25. The Journal is sent free to all mem­ hundred. Winchester bers. The President of our Society is His Members of the "Yetis" Association for Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester, Nepalis resident or staying in Britain are GVCO. From Tuesdays to Saturdays welcome at all functions. They are eligible The Committee welcome new mem­ to join as full members in the usual way. bers amongst people with a genuine inter­ and on Public Holiday Mondays They have a flourishing organisation of est in Nepal. The address of the Honorary their own and publish their own attractive Secretary is: 10 am to 5 pm journal. The Society's programme in­ cludes: Mrs. Joanna Thomas (Last entry at 4.30 pm) • monthly lectures or events from Oc­ 24 Carthew Villas tober to May in London; London. W6 OBS Telephone: 0962 842832

42 43 THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester, GCVO

Vice-Presidents His Excellency the Nepalese Ambassador The Lord Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine, KG, CBE, DSO, DCL Major-General J.A.R. Robertson, CB, CBE, DSO, DL Mrs. T.T. Brown Lieutenant Colonel C.G. Wylie Paul Broomhall Esq. A.R.H. Kellas Esq., CMG Brigadier A.B. Taggart, MC Sir George Bishop, CB, OBE Lieutenant Colonel H.C.S. Gregory, OBE, KSG

Chairman: Colonel J.M. Evans, MC

Vice-Chairman: B.W.E. Smith Esq.

Honorary Secretary: Mrs. Joanna Thomas

Honorary Treasurer: A.C. Durston Esq.

Committee Members: Badri Prasad Khanal Esq. (Counsellor Royal Nepalese Embassy) J L. Ackroyd Esq. Mrs. Iris Bolton Miss M. Gurung H.B. Karki Esq. I. Manandhar Esq. (Co-opted) Roger Potter Esq. Mrs. S.M. Rana Peter Roberts Esq., OBE Lientenant Colonel C.N. Fraser (ex officio)

Editor ofJournal: Lieutenant Colonel H.C.S. Gregory, OBE, KSG

Produced by Glenburn Services

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