FINDING THE REAL CITY Adventure Guide to

BILL BUCK

Copyright © 2013 by Bill Buck All Rights Reserved. DEDICATION

n Italian kid from New York City sailed through the Golden A Gate in 1969 as a merchant marine and decided to jump ship. A revolutionary, a rock and roller, and an accomplished sailor, he began a new life here and become a San Franciscan.

The uncle of my high school friend, Denis operated a sailboat charter service from a wooden sloop named Molly. On weekends he gave sailing lessons to many groups of students. On the bay many days, Molly’s dark maroon sails and jet black hull would appear out of the fog like a pirate ship.

Denis resided on a custom-made houseboat in San Francisco’s oldest yacht harbor. It was a teenage dream pad with a deck overlooking Alcatraz, two cats, many hanging plants and a vast collection of rock and jazz CDs on a stereo with surround sound.

During my first year in the city, Denis left for New York to visit his ailing father and asked me to stay on-board to cat-sit. After a week I was hooked and, inspired by Uncle Denis, I bought myself a classic wooden boat down the dock, worked hard to restore it, and lived aboard in the marina for many years thereafter.

There are always resourceful kids who come to town and find a way to make it all work. Thanks to Denis I had a unique foothold in the city, a headquarters from which to explore San Francisco.

In Memoriam: Denis Francis Belfortie 1946 - 2010 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1 MEET THE NEIGHBORHOODS

Chapter 2 North Beach

Chapter 3 The Waterfront

Chapter 4 Presidio

Chapter 5 Mission/Valencia Street

Chapter 6 The Avenues

Chapter 7 More Areas to Visit

Chapter 8 ONE DAY/FOUR BLOCKS

Chapter 9 RESTAURANTS

Chapter 10 CAFES

Chapter 11 BARS/CLUBS

Chapter 12 GETTING AROUND

Chapter 13 ACCOMMODATIONS

Chapter 14 CULTURAL ACTIVITIES

Chapter 15 PARKS/OUTDOORS

Chapter 16 ECOLOGY OF THE CITY

Chapter 17 HISTORY OF THE CITY

Chapter 18 MORE RESOURCES

Chapter 19 AFTERWORD

Chapter 20 APPENDIX PREFACE

few weeks before the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, I moved to A San Francisco. As a native Californian I’d experienced plenty of quakes but not like this one. It was part of my welcome to the city.

Growing up in a small town between Los Angeles and San Francisco, I thought my destiny was in one of these two cities. I didn’t have to deliberate for long: L.A. had the beaches and the weather, but San Francisco had soul… and my girlfriend! Stepping off a Greyhound bus at the Transbay Terminal, I became the newest arrival to walk up with high hopes in a pair of high-top Converse sneakers.

My girlfriend was in her mid-twenties and she had a good foothold in the city already. When I moved into her small bungalow near and began attending college, I became a student of the city as well.

The window of our living room looked out on a small courtyard with a fountain, a flower garden and a huge Victorian house next door. This ornate building had once been part of the Good Earth commune, whose members formed the upstart Diggers collective and used to cook meals and distribute them for free in the park. It was one of many lively stories we learned about our neighborhood. We were told that had even crashed in our bedroom once as a struggling young musician. Janis had probably crashed in many bedrooms in the neighborhood but the mystique was real. Emerging from eight-foot tall iron gates that protected our tiny fortress, I stepped out into the city and began exploring a place I had dreamed of since I was a kid. It didn’t take long to realize the layers of history were so extensive here, it would take lifetimes to uncover them all. Some friends and I spent two days walking a loop around the entire city, fourteen miles each day; it was a whole weekend of walking yet we had just scratched the surface.

The earthquake in 1989 came as a shock. We made it through without serious incident but what happened later that night really stuck with me. As the sun disappeared and night fell on a powerless city, residents in our neighborhood began directing traffic and huge crowds gathered on the side- walks to share stories of the quake late into the balmy night. It was a window into the strength of the city’s community that I haven’t seen since.

An eerie quiet took hold in neighborhoods like the Marina district following the quake as an exodus began: earthquake-weary residents decided this wasn’t the place for them. On the other hand, I was committed to the city for better or for worse — and in spite of potential quakes.

No urban area is perfect and I have a few complaints but I’ve been to cities all over the world and after 25 years, San Francisco is still my favorite. I wrote this guide in part to acknowledge this Silver anniversary and I hope it helps you discover this special place, to find the real city… HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

inding the Real City is for locals and visitors alike. It’s designed to be Fused “in the field” — download it to an e-book reader like a Kindle, a tablet, laptop or other mobile device. During your visit you can use the hyperlinks included throughout the guide which lead to photos, reviews and helpful sites. Internet access will open up the capabilities of the book.

The guide’s companion website — www.adventureguideSF.com — has resources like maps, addresses, and a list of links for the establishments and attractions profiled in the guide. Neighborhood maps are also available on the site, augmenting the book’s One Day-Four Blocks challenge. Watch for Adventure Alerts listed throughout the guide which provide more ways to explore the city.

Check out the Table of Contents to orient yourself with all the sections and use the search function to find keywords related to topics or questions.

This guide celebrates the historically rich, authentic and rewarding parts of the city that many books exclude. All five of the neighborhoods profiled offer memorable experiences but inevitably some neighborhoods and worthy destinations were left out. Depend on this guide of course, but also be sure to follow your whims!

*For more information, please see www.adventureguideSF.com *

Time to... MEET THE NEIGHBORHOODS! MEET THE NEIGHBORHOODS

an Francisco is made up of many small neighborhoods — there are S at least 40 and a whole lot more if you include the city’s micro-hoods. Finding the Real City narrows down all the choices to five great destinations:

Destination #1 – North Beach Long serving as a playground for sailors and swashbucklers, North Beach became prosperous for Italian-American families who helped make the neighborhood famous for its great restaurants and spunky nightlife. Today North Beach has lost some of that verve but, along with nearby Chinatown, it’s a spectacular place to find historic San Francisco.

Destination #2 – The Waterfront Beginning in 1849, as ships filled the city shoreline, the once wild waterfront was filled in, transforming into a place of hulking piers and busy fishing docks. From the Presidio to Mission Bay, this guide celebrates the water- front, a thin slice curving southward along the city for miles, offering unique glimpses of the Bay, maritime history and the city’s modern downtown.

Destination #3 – Presidio Transferred to San Francisco by the U.S. Army in 1994, the national park- lands of the Presidio feature forests, beaches, museums, historic architec- ture and recreation. Site of the city’s original Spanish fort, this is a truly historic element of San Francisco and preserves natural areas that would look familiar to the early settlers who arrived here in the 1700s. Destination #4 – Mission/Valencia Street For years, Valencia has been known as one of the city’s culturally vibrant streets. It’s a good place to visit for restaurants, bars and one-of-a-kind shopping experiences. At the edge of the Mission district, this street mixes a long-standing Latino culture with a new hipster culture. Nearby Mission Dolores provides a window into the city’s Spanish and Mexican influences.

Destination #5 – The Avenues The sprawling Richmond and Sunset districts, long derided as merely nondescript outlying areas with an overabundance of fog in the summer- time, feature some of today’s most interesting restaurants and shops in the city. Golden Gate Park provides a focal point for this area and its two key streets—Clement and Irving—each get in-depth coverage in this guide.

More sections of this guide: *ONE DAY/FOUR BLOCKS* RESTAURANTS CAFES BARS/CLUBS GETTING AROUND ACCOMMODATIONS CULTURAL ACTIVITIES PARKS/OUTDOORS HISTORY OF THE CITY MORE RESOURCES AFTERWORD APPENDIX North Beach

“The cultural revolution first came to North Beach, where cheap saloons and fleabag hotels and old Barbary Coast bohemianism beckoned the Beats in the 1950s.” –David Talbot Season of the Witch

orth Beach and its good neighbor Chinatown earn high honors Namong San Francisco’s historic neighborhoods: they preserve elements of their mid-19th Century look and feel. Walk down impossibly narrow alleys, climb up historic stairways, hunker down with a friend in a tiny saloon – it’s all a good taste of the old days.

Entertainment trends may come and go but this section of the city still provides a spectacle like it always has. Nowhere else can you find quite this mix of history, architecture, and edgy nightlife. The old Italian flair of North Beach has faded some in recent decades but the elements of “old world” San Francisco are alive and well here and truly define this neighborhood.

Columbus Avenue

The main thoroughfare of North Beach runs diagonally from Fisherman’s Wharf to the foot of the building. Columbus Avenue visits should rightly start at the venerable City Lights:

• – Founder and poet Lawrence Ferling- hetti provided a stronghold for the Beat culture in the 1950s and beyond after publishing Ginsburg’s “” -- Go! • Vesuvio – Located on Alley next to City Lights, Jack spent many a night here in the 50s and 60s. Have a drink.

• Spec’s – One of the reflections of Old North Beach, with pirate booty and odd paintings and photos covering the walls. Step back into dimly lit Barbary Coast days and have a few drinks.

• Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store – An Italian-infused cafe on the edge of Washington Square offering good coffee and sandwiches. Bring a picnic outside to the park and enjoy North Beach.

• Molinari Deli – Popular sandwiches in a traditional Italian setting: stacks of imported cans of virgin olive oil on the wall, heaps of pasta, biscotti and much more.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * THE BARBARY COAST TRAIL

This historic route follows the city’s original waterfront, where salty characters trudged down streets of mud, then brick, then asphalt. The trail is a 4-mile walking tour that points out historic sites and buildings along the way. Look for gold medallions embedded in the sidewalk which point out the route.

Grant Street

One of the most authentic business corridors representing Old North Beach, many aspects of this neighborhood may remind New York City fans of the West Village – with hills. The intersection at Grant and Green earns this guide’s top honors for “Coolest Corner in the City.” • 101 Music – This charming used record shop has a huge selection of LPs, musical instruments and old stereos (including cassette and 8-track). Near the corner of Grant and Green, it’s the place with giant musical notes covering the front of the shop.

• The Nature Stop – Stop into this market for a nutritious snack and wander the streets of North Beach. This is one of the good old-fashioned health food stores in the city.

• Tony’s Pizza – Nice spot to sit down and have a rest, a beer and an extra large pizza with pesto. Big windows look out on the corner of Grant and Green for some good people watching.

• Grant and Green Saloon – Sweet spot to go for live music in the evening. This is classic North Beach.

Broadway

These days, it’s in a bit of trouble with vacant storefronts and a sort of run-down feeling. But is still breathing! The famous old “Broadway strip” has a certain early-20th Century tacky feeling that you don’t find much. A historically seedy stretch, Broadway emerged from the original Barbary Coast red light district. Today the short two-block section from Columbus to Kearny offers a more quaint impression but still has enough color to make a pirate grin.

• The Beat Museum – The only museum in the city that officially celebrates the revolutionary generation which ran wild here in the 50s. They have a great selection of Beat books here. • Condor Club – This historic strip club invites the public in for drinks and live music in the afternoons Thursday through Sunday -- sans flesh. The red velvet decor, stage and well-pol- ished pole look so innocent in the light of day.

Broadway is missing some of its anchor tenants that gave it a real rock and roll edge in the 70s, 80s and 90s: music venues like The Stone, Club Cocodrie, Mabuhay Gardens, and many more. Long Live Broadway’s Rock!

Chinatown

At the edge of North Beach, Chinatown’s tightly packed buildings, narrow streets and alleyways beckon to the walking visitor. Turn left outside of Vesuvio onto and explore Grant Street. To see more of the real Chinatown, you have to go deeper into these historic streets. In particular, check out Hang Ah Street—a true step back in time—as well as nearby , a great park locked in an older Chinatown era.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * WALK THE CURVES:

Skip the traffic jams and park your car. Walk down Lombard, the famous “crook- edest street in the world.” Begin at the top of Lombard (at ) and meander down the hill to Columbus Avenue. Turn right and explore the heart of North Beach.

SEE WEBSITE FOR NEIGHBORHOOD LINKS. The Waterfront

nique in the world, this part of the city is a thrilling collision of Uhistory, with sweeping views of the bay, restaurants, recreation, abundant wildlife, and a great variety of entertainment.

The Waterfront offers glimpses of the real city, starting with its actual geography. Before development, it was a wild waterfront with gurgling creeks, deep inlets and muddy wetlands bordered by sand dunes and rock-encrusted hillsides. When ships began arriving during the Gold Rush, their crews abandoned them by the dozen to head to the Sierras. Dozens of these ships were sunk. Mud, rocks and human debris were piled onto the flotsam and paved over, and the ships are now submerged beneath today’s Downtown.

Anyone worried about the ever-present threat of earthquakes can thank the early “city planners” for a legacy of mud and debris hidden under the city. Blocks and blocks of billion-dollar real estate exist here today and the waterfront is more polished than it’s been for many decades.

The Embarcadero

This street follows the waterfront for much of its length and is lined with restaurants, bars, entertainment and recreation. A good way to see the waterfront is by bicycle: most of the roadway is level and there are bike rental operations all along the Embarcadero. • – This SF institution reopened on Pier 15 and offers many innovative interactive exhibits. It’s a great hands-on way to learn about science as well as the Bay and its creatures.

• Red’s Java House – Visit Red’s for lunch and enjoy a burger and a beer out on the patio. It doesn’t get much more waterfront than that. See more detailed information in the Restaurants section.

• AT&T Park: Home of the Giants – Even if you’re not a fanatic, check out Plaza, McCovey Cove, the statues of legendary players, plaques and great views of the Bay. During baseball season, go for a day game. If you don’t have time for a game, observe for free along the right field arcade, above McCovey Cove. In the off-season (Nov-Mar) you can book an official tour of the ballpark.

• The Ramp – A preferred pirate hangout since 1950, this bayfront bar/restaurant has patio dining with great views of the Bay and a boat haul-out yard next door. Watch out for the seagulls!

• Pier 23 – Another spot to have lunch on a sprawling historic pier, have a beer and watch the seagulls. Some good live music too.

• Ferry Building – For truly high quality, locally crafted fare try the historic building at the foot of Market Street. This is a great place for unexpected culinary adventures: walk around, enjoy free samples and have lunch on the patio.

*REMEMBERING THE EARTHQUAKE:

The Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989 impacted every SF resident. The waterfront was transformed as well. The Embarcadero freeway, which once cast a huge shadow over much of the area, was found to be unsafe and it was torn down in the years following the quake. For weeks after the disaster, there was an eerie reminder frozen atop the Ferry Building’s tower: the hands of its clock were stuck on the time of the earthquake: 5:04.

Fort Mason

Fort Mason is one of the highlights of the city, but it’s a place many visitors miss. Originally an Army base, it was transferred to the City in the 1970s and became a home for nonprofit organizations, unique shops and special events. Check out the Friends of the San Francisco Public Library bookstore, the Museo ItaloAmericano, Magic Theatre, and the Long Now Museum.

• Fort Mason community garden – Walk uphill to the beautiful officers’ quarters, with great views of the Bay, old cannon mounts and this lovely hidden garden, a long-running community project that features some incredible heirloom herbs and flowers.

• Green’s – Eat lunch at this world-renowned vegetarian restau- rant. Healthy fare.

Fisherman’s Wharf

Some might consider Fisherman’s Wharf to be a bit out of character with the direction of this guide but it’s actually one of the jewels on the waterfront. It’s unpolished and has some tacky souvenir shops, yes, but that’s part of what makes it special in today’s San Francisco.

There are caveats. Visit Fisherman’s Wharf early in the day if possible before the crowds arrive and avoid weekends. You’ll have more breathing room and may actually see real fishermen unloading the morning catch. Sunrises and late nights are quite romantic here. • – The city is fortunate to have the National Park Service here to help the public learn about this historic dock. Step aboard these ships and see for yourself, it’s unforgettable.

• USS Pampanito – Step onto an authentic diesel-powered subma- rine from WWII. The famous Liberty ship S.S. Jeremiah O’Brien is also nearby.

• – Known for their freshly baked bread, this is one of the best places in the neighborhood to sample SF’s world famous sourdough (since 1849).

• Aquatic Park – Just below , this delightful cove features a bona fide beach for swimming and wading. Come for a picnic and to dip your feet in a protected ares of the bay.

• Local street performers – There are some true talents here. Be sure to catch one or two of these acts – don’t forget to tip!

• – Few local residents have anything good to say about nearby . It’s more of a Southern mall plopped down on our waterfront. But the “miniature-sized Monterey Bay Aquarium” here is a must-see for marine-lovers. It’s a place to bring the kids as well. Another related visit is the colony of sea lions who live nearby at the K-Dock. It’s a ruckus!

*MAKE THE BEST OF IT:

There’s a joke among locals that when friends or family show up to visit in the summertime, they usually say ‘Hey, let’s go to Fisherman’s Wharf!’ and their hosts just roll their eyes. But when it’s done right the Wharf can be a blast, even for residents with a chip on the old shoulder!

SEE WEBSITE FOR NEIGHBORHOOD LINKS. Presidio

“There’s something special about the places here that have the old Army feeling – spots like the one above Rob Hill. There’s still a bunch of us that work here that will make sure those places stay around.” -Presidio park ranger

his former Army base is the best place in the city for a break from Tcity life. The Presidio covers about 1,500 acres of unique scenery: deep, dark forests with sweeping views of the Bay, abandoned bunkers and old Army installations teeming with wildflowers, and hawks, raccoons and coyotes that roam the hills and coastal bluffs.

A great way to explore many parts of the Presidio is on a bike. Also try hiking on the which makes a huge loop around the Bay and follows the high elevation areas of the Presidio. This route traces some of the park’s Spanish history and provides scenic overlooks that stick with you even after you’re long gone -- there’s Inspiration Point, the mystical National Cemetery and beloved .

Today the Presidio is run by the National Park Service, Golden Gate National Recreation Area and the Presidio Trust. In the 90s, the park was under threat of being sold to private interests and only recently was the Presidio declared to be self-sufficient, an official requirement by Congress. This is one of the world’s greatest urban parks and will remain as such.

Feel the marine air -- you know the bay is near. From a hundred different vantage points, the appears. Walk along a beach with plenty of room to breathe, where lapping waves give way to a small preserve of sand dunes and native plants.

This is the northernmost edge of San Francisco and Crissy Field is one of its most prized locations. The field was a landing strip for small aircraft in the early 1900s and today it’s occupied by a large open area of grass which provides plenty of space for kids, dogs, picnics and events. The Golden Gate Promenade alongside is packed with walkers, joggers and sight-seers.

Many old army facilities were removed along Crissy Field in the 1990s, including about 70 acres of asphalt, pavement and tons of contaminated soil from an old dump site. Volunteers then planted 100,000 native plants and recreated a habitat that hasn’t existed since the 1800s. See these gems:

• Crissy Field – A model for wetlands restoration across the world, this large area features a lagoon thick with birds, with wildlife viewing areas and a walkable beach nearby with lots to see.

• Warming Hut – A small café and bakery run by GGNRA with a bookstore and an engrossing gift shop. Definitely worth a visit.

• Farallones Marine Sanctuary Association visitor center – Many people don’t know that a large marine preserve is just beyond the Golden Gate, which offers federal protection for abundant marine life. Come here to discover this unique ecosystem. • Golden Gate Bridge – A right of passage is walking across this bridge, which provides a stunning perspective on the Bay. Stroll halfway across (or be really adventurous and walk all the way to Marin County). Notice the churning water hundreds of feet below with tides that are among the most intense in the world. An average of three times more water than the mouth of the Mississippi River surges beneath the bridge.

Main Post

This part of the park is the site of the Army’s administrative offices and includes two elegant officers clubs, one of which was built within the walls of the original Spanish Presidio.

• Presidio Bowling Alley –This spot was beloved by the Army families who lived here for decades. It’s still popular in the community and the fact that it remains here provides hope for the preservationist. Lace ‘em up!

• Post Chapel – A site for worship in the Presidio, this small chapel rests on a hill by the national cemetery. If the Chapel is closed, walk along its side wall and admire the 1930s-era mural depicting San Francisco in its early years.

• Inn at the Presidio – If you get the chance (and have the budget for it) stay at this inn. It’s a great way to experience the Main Post at all hours. Staying here overnight, with its history and views of the Bay, will provide a completely different feeling.

• Letterman Digital Arts Center – Today the headquarters of Lucasfilm, this was originally the site of Letterman Hospital, the historic Army medical facility. Pay your respects to this colored past and check out Lucas’ lovely park grounds. If you’re a Star Wars fan, be sure to stop by the Yoda Fountain. • Lovers Lane – This path was one of the primary routes to and from the Presidio for enlisted men. The Lane immortalizes a time when soldiers on leave would walk to spots like North Beach for memorable nights of revelry. (How do you think it got its name?)

* ADVENTURE ALERT * THE WILD PRESIDIO:

Some of the Presidio’s overgrown forested areas, hidden paths and rugged wildlife habitat are doing well without human intervention -- and this wildness in the Presidio should be preserved. Discover places that are not manicured here!

Ocean & Beaches

Few areas of the city compare to the oceanfront of the Presidio. Its views are outstanding and there are many options for beach-combing, hiking coastal bluffs, and discovering military history. Here are some places to begin:

• Fort Point – Standing on this site and considering that it was an active fort during the Civil War is quite a feeling. Since 1776, this has been a strategic point, the sentry of the Golden Gate. Take a trip through time, courtesy of the National Park Service, and visit the large brick fort underneath the Golden Gate Bridge.

• Lobos Creek – Efforts have been underway since the mid 90s to restore large portions of the park with native plants, including serene Lobos Creek. This is San Francisco’s last fresh water creek that flows into the ocean. A memorable walk. • Baker Beach – Locals’ favorite. On sunny days, it’s quite a scene. Check out nearby Battery Chamberlain as well, a unique wind- swept Army installation perched over the ocean.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * BEACH-COMB BAKER:

During low tides only, try walking up Baker Beach following the rocks. See how close you can get to the Golden Gate Bridge and what will you see along the way?! Mission/Valencia Street

his area has undergone changes but still has a certain character and Tambiance. This is a place where small family-owned restaurants, bars and cafes share real estate with well-financed startups and restau- rants tapping into hipster preferences. What’s important is there is still a gritty, creative group of denizens who maintain an authentic experience on Valencia and in the Mission district as a whole.

Coming years will decide what becomes of this area… but for now it holds onto its street credibility, providing a uniquely San Francisco habitat. Here are some ideas to get started:

• Dog-Eared Books – One of the last of the great used bookstores, it’s a lively community gathering place and has plenty to browse.

• 826 Valencia – A refuge from the urban grind, a pirate supply store (really) that offers a meeting space in back for the commu- nity. Visit their Fish Theatre, a free meditation aquarium space!

• Dandelion Chocolate – A new spot with great artisan delecta- bles. Enjoy watching chocolate being crafted on the premises, from carefully sourced raw materials.

• Borderlands Books – A specialty bookstore and an interesting scenester hangout. Explore the darker side... • – Homespun Mission-style graffiti art fills this alleyway. It’s an interesting place to see the shifting styles of the neighborhood’s artists in an open air setting.

• Elixir – One of the oldest continually-run saloons in San Fran- cisco, this is a good place to order a special cocktail: try the local bartender tradition, a shot of Fernet Branca.

• Roxie Theatre – A well-loved showcase for independent films, documentaries and classic films: check out their calendar.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * See the Mission’s namesake:

Mission Dolores de San Francisco was built in 1791, the oldest building in San Francisco by a long shot and worth the small admis- sion price to enter and explore the mission. If you’re just walking past and want to get a feel for what’s inside, an alleyway along the left side of the property enables viewing of the mission grounds and the historic cemetery.

The Avenues

ne of the thriving elements of modern-day San Francisco is its O diverse Asian population. This is one of the best places in the U.S. to experience a variety of Asian cultures representing twelve distinct nations: Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Taiwan, Tibet, India, the Philippines, Indonesia and China. Each nationality has its own unique presence on display in SF.

The Avenues are made up of the Sunset and Richmond districts, where you’ll find shops, bars, cafes and many other types of businesses scattered throughout a large flat area of the city. Come experience the wares, customs, and flavors of this cornucopia of Asia.

Clement Street (2nd Ave. to 7th Ave.)

This is one of the best streets in the city for discovering excellent Asian restaurants. Here are some examples of what this great area has to offer:

• Burma Super – One of the more delicious destinations in San Francisco. When you see a line in front of a particular restaurant, you know it must be good, and every day there is a wait here.

• King of Thai Noodle House – Inexpensive dishes bursting with flavor and style; try the Tom Yum Goong, a vegetable-based stew that may be one of the best you’ll ever taste. • Aroma Tea Shop – Slow down and enjoy an hour of sensuous tea tasting in this shop filled with amazing teas from across Asia. It’s a memorable experience.

• Genki Crepes – Fun little ice cream/crepe shop with new and flavorful snacks you have probably never experienced!

• Green Apple Books – Anchor tenant of Clement Street and truly one of the great book shops, they offer a huge selection of new, used and locally-oriented books. There’s also a record store with a huge magazine selection and used paperbacks next door.

• Q – Tasty Southern-style comfort food prepared with a San Francisco touch in a very lively setting. Great beer on tap.

• 6th Avenue Aquarium – A visual feast with hundreds of colorful fish and other creatures packed inside these walls.

• Plough and the Stars – It’s one of the area’s great traditions: bars with live music. Come listen to an acoustic performance of tradi- tional Irish folk music, bluegrass and beyond.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * Stroll these segments of the Avenues which are particularly fun and walkable:

• Clement Street: 2nd Ave. to 25th Ave.

• Irving Street: 6th Ave. to 25th Ave.

• Geary Blvd.: 19th Ave. to 25th Ave.

Irving Street (6th Ave. to 9th Ave.)

This section of Irving Street is a must-see for foodies, featuring a high concentration of restaurants in a small radius. As a bonus, walk from here to Golden Gate Park in less than a minute to a section of the park that has the Academy of Sciences, and many other attractions.

• Pasquale’s Pizzeria – One of the most satisfying places in the city for sit-down pizza, has the feel of a family-style Italian restaurant.

• Irving Variety – This venerable old Five and Dime stationery store still has its original art deco-era sign that reads “5 cents/10 cents” -- multiply those numbers by 20 for today’s prices.

• Sushi – Try Kiki or Ebisu, two well-loved Japanese restaurants in the city. See the Restaurants section for more.

• Le Video – They don’t make ‘em like this anymore. An old-fash- ioned independent video store with aisles stacked tall with movies of all kinds. Find a one-of-a-kind indie.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * TRAIN TO THE BEACH:

Streetcars snake along this part of Irving Street every few minutes -- reminding you to hop on the N-Judah for at least one trip. Try taking the train to the beach, only 20 minutes away!

Geary Blvd. (21st Ave. to the Cliff House)

The Russian culture in this part of the city provides a good reason to visit the outer reaches of the Avenues. This self-contained neighborhood, called Little Russia, offers conveniences in small sizes, like miniature branches of large banks, a tiny electronics store, artisan bakery and a Russian curio shop.

Urban legends hint that the Russian mafia still runs things out here. In the case, it’s an area that has stayed pretty much the same for a long time:

• Gastronom Deli & Bakery – When you begin to notice Russian language on signs, you have arrived. A case in point: Gastronom.

• Holy Virgin Cathedral – This Russian Orthodox church has huge distinctive golden domes.

• Thom’s – With that recognizable traditional health food store smell, it includes bulk food bins, herbs, candles, and a commu- nity bulletin board (quickly disappearing in SF). Buy a few drinks and some snacks and bring them down to the beach!

• Lands End – The view out to sea from here may be the most dramatic in the city. This is the opening of the golden gate: explore Lincoln Park and eerie shipwreck-strewn Point Lobos.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * BRAVE THE FOG:

Ocean breeze coming at you -- you know the sea is near -- you feel the salt and the cool mois- ture in the air. The “Outside Lands” are here. Fog and bracing ocean air remind you it’s a rugged place. On a foggy day or a windy night, walk along Ocean Beach in spite of the discom- fort and experience some real San Francisco. More Areas to Visit

here is plenty more to see and do. The following places provide Tmore options for exploring the city. For an encyclopedic list of neighborhoods, refer to the Found SF neighborhood guide (featuring some spectacular photos).

Fillmore

Colorful and vibrant has three great sections:

• Lombard Street to Union Street - check out the old Frederick- sen’s hardware store, a classy relic of the neighborhood.

• Washington to Pine - An area that offers eclectic shops, high-end boutiques and some great food.

• Sutter to Eddy - Experience part of the African-American community’s historic live jazz mecca.

*Tip: One way to get a feel for the entire length of Fillmore Street is to hop on a 22-Fillmore bus. You can also walk it but be warned, it’s very steep through Pacific Heights.

Hayes Valley

One of the city’s trendier neighborhoods west of City Hall. Cafes, bars, clothing boutiques. Try the section of Hayes Street from Franklin to Octavia. Japantown

Japantown centers on its mall, which features sushi boat restaurants, ice cream stores, unique shops and great people watching. Peace Plaza has a beautiful pagoda which is lit up at night. This is the heart of Japantown.

Little Saigon

A small section of Larkin Street established by the Vietnamese-American Community, it is one of the city’s up and coming neighborhoods. Gritty but featuring some great little restaurants.

Potrero Hill

The anchor of this lovely hillside neighborhood is SF’s own Anchor Steam brewery — a catalyst for the renaissance of American microbrews. Potrero Hill also features the REAL “crookedest street” (Vermont Street/20th).

Tenderloin

“If you’re worried about gentrification in the city, stop worrying! There’s always the Tenderloin…” Join a walking tour and discover this neighbor- hood’s rural beginnings and today’s urban jungle.

Cow Hollow

Recently overheard: a passing tour bus on Union Street with a tour guide on a PA called it “a nice place for a stroll with lots of small businesses.” That’s a fair appraisal. Union is like Beverly Hills with more organically-grown flavor. Not too bad for an area that used to be the city’s main cow pasture! West Portal One of the only places in San Francisco that feels “unchanged.” For decades, it’s been off the radar for locals and tourists alike -- worth a visit.

*COMEDY:

For a tongue in cheek commentary on the City’s neigh- borhoods, see this spoof: http://www.thebolditalic.com/ drewhoolhorst/stories/1958-moving-to-san-francisco

* ADVENTURE ALERT * ARE YOU SPOOKED??

Cemeteries were originally located on many of the city’s hills. As the population grew, thousands of graves were relocated to Colma, a city south of San Francisco known for its larger population of dead than living. As SF’s former residents were unceremoniously kicked out of town, legends spread far and wide that the hills were haunted, especially Lone Mountain, a mystical overlook on the campus of the University of San Francisco. Walk up the steep stairway on Turk Street to the top of Lone Mountain late some foggy night... *ONE DAY/FOUR BLOCKS*

THE CHALLENGE: *12 Hours spent in a four block radius… without getting bored.*

t’s a promise made with a preposterous premise: You can spend an I entire day in a four block radius and have a great time in the process. This is all about staying four blocks from the center of the neighbor- hood (cross streets listed below). The time suggestions are approximate but easily followed. Buffer time is built in for freedom to roam. This is about not being in a hurry. An hour or more in a bookstore may seem like a lot but once you enter Green Apple (if you’re a book lover) you may just find it easy.

Ensconce yourself in a neighborhood, a micro-neighborhood really, and get to know it well. Everything is within a ten-minute walk. Welcome to Deep Travel — a new way of looking at tourism.

We start with North Beach:

NORTH BEACH/CHINATOWN — Broadway @ Columbus 10am - Breakfast: Café Trieste 11am - walkabout (follow the old Barbary Coast Trail) 12pm - Lunch: Molinari Deli (picnic at Washington Square) 1pm - Beat Museum 2pm - Portsmouth Square (historic Chinatown park) 3pm - Shop along Grant Avenue in Chinatown 4pm - Tea tasting at Vital Tea Leaf tea shop Turn right on Kerouac Alley… 5pm - City Lights Bookstore 6pm - Vesuvio and Spec’s (have a drink) 7pm - Dinner: North Beach Restaurant 8pm - The Saloon (live blues) or Beach Blanket Babylon (live theatre) THE WATERFRONT — Jefferson @ Taylor 9am - Breakfast: Boudin Bakery 10am - Walk along the piers and fishing boats, Sea lions 11am - Hyde Street Pier (tour the historic ships) 1pm - Lunch: Clam chowder/fresh crab at the outdoor fish market 2pm - Musee Mecanique (old-fashioned arcade) 3pm - Wax Museum (“C’mon, it’s fun!”) 4pm - Tacky souvenir shopping on Jefferson St. (“Live a little!”) 5pm - Lounge on the beach at Aquatic Park 6pm - Buena Vista Café (order an Irish Coffee) 7pm - Dinner: Gary Danko 8pm - Live music: Lou’s Pier 47 Blues Club *If you want to keep the party going, go to Bimbo’s 365 Club

MISSION/VALENCIA ST. — Dolores @ 19th St. 9am - Breakfast: Maxfield’s House of Caffeine (read an SF Weekly) 10am - Take tour of Mission Dolores, including cemetery grounds 11am - Bookstores: Dog Eared Books, Borderlands Books 12pm - Lunch: El Toro Taqueria 1pm - Shopping: Good Vibrations, Dandelion Chocolate, 826, Aquarius 3pm - Bi-Rite ice cream, Muddy Waters Café 4pm - Art Tour: Women’s Building, Clarion Alley, Creativity Explored 5pm - Dolores Park (hang out on the grass or play some frisbee) 6pm - Elixir (have a drink) 7pm - Dinner: Sunflower Vietnamese 8pm - Roxie Theatre (watch a film)

RICHMOND DISTRICT — Clement @ 4th Ave. 10am - Breakfast: Blue Danube (hangout with wifi) 11am - Green Apple Books (records and magazines next door) 1pm - Lunch: Burma Super 2pm - Tea tasting at Aroma Tea Shop 3pm - Shopping: Chinese herb stores, aquarium, candy/ice cream shops 4pm - Massage (steam sauna then 90-minute massage) 6pm - Buckshot (game of pool) 7pm - Dinner: Q 8pm - Live music: The Plough and Stars *To keep the party going, hit Dirty Trix -- go upstairs to see a rock band! RESTAURANTS

“One of the things that makes San Francisco different is a culture of eating and drinking in grand style. Bars and restaurants are part of the city’s cultural heritage, going back to the days of the Gold Rush.” –Carl Nolte SF Chronicle

here are 4,000 or more eating establishments in the city. San Fran- Tcisco was recently crowned by the New York Times as the city with the most restaurants per capita in America.

The following establishments reflect the spirit of the city and three destinations were chosen for each popular category. A small team of San Franciscans conferred on these choices to verify that each property is alive and well. (Many calories were consumed and burned in this effort! )

We have emphasized restaurants that have been in operation long enough to prove their staying power. These places truly have character and the quality of the restaurants recommended here go beyond their food. They cater to people who appreciate an Experience.

American What is American anyway? For this guide, it’s a recognizable ambiance and memorable burgers. • Bill’s Place (Avenues) – Clement Street is renowned for its Asian restaurants but old Bill’s Place is a local standby for burger fans. It has the feel of a 50s diner, and a nice back patio to boot.

• NOPA (Divisidero) – Who says you can’t enjoy high end Amer- ican food anymore?! This restaurant puts its own spin on Amer- ican food traditions in a classy setting. Sit upstairs for a view.

• Red’s Java House (Waterfront) – Old San Francisco longshoremen grub. This is a pirate’s preference, one of the last holdouts on the waterfront: cheap burgers and brews with a view! Red’s is a beloved joint, hopefully to be preserved here for all time.

*MEET RED:

Introducing chef Tom McGarvey, founder of Red’s Java House (now retired): “In 1942, after running away from various foster homes, McGarvey managed to join the merchant marine at age 15, and sailed around the globe. After a decade of that, he was ready to come home. With his brother Mike, he bought a coffee shack along the waterfront, named it Red’s – Tom McGarvey was a redhead – and for the next four decades thrived on the java house’s popularity with hungry longshoremen who were also looking for a pre-shift jolt of caffeine.” – from the SF Chronicle

Chinese There are many styles and traditions of Chinese food (consider the size of China) but these particular spots provide an authentic introduction to the city’s Chinese food: • Empress of China (Chinatown) – There is no Chinese restau- rant like the Empress in San Francisco. The food here is not award-winning, let’s get that straight, but for magical views and historic Chinese artwork, come here. Their walls display old autographed photos of dignitaries, elected officials and Holly- wood stars who came here by the dozen.

• Hang Ah Tea Room (Chinatown) – Opened in 1920, this is claimed to be San Francisco’s oldest dim sum house. One good reason to come here is the location: a tiny alleyway that provides a secret view into a historic section of Chinatown.

• Ton Kiang (Avenues) – Have you tried dim sum? Many people have not experienced the unique treat of ordering fresh dim sum from steaming trays as they pass alongside your table. Come for brunch and enjoy a delicious array of dumplings and desserts.

Italian The rich Italian should never be overlooked. North Beach has fewer of its original bustling Italian families who long filled its streets, but there are still some great bakeries, delicatessens and restaurants:

• Liguria Bakery (North Beach) – In the heart of North Beach next to Washington Square, enjoy their focaccia bread, fresh pizza and more: This is old school North Beach here!

• Lucca Deli (Marina) – Primo sandwiches, salamis and a wide variety of cured meats, cheeses, wine, etc.

• North Beach Restaurant – One of the standbys of North Beach, with a cozy dining area and well-crafted dishes. *LONG LIVE LITTLE JOE’S!

For decades, North Beach was graced by the presence of Little Joe’s, a family-owned restaurant that featured a row of chefs along the wall coaxing pots and pans to perfection over huge flames. Red and white-checkered tablecloths, lovely service staff and wall-to-wall murals of Mediterra- nean-inspired bliss. Little Joe’s is with us no longer!

Japanese Sushi is popular in San Francisco and dozens of sushi places are scattered across the city to prove it. It’s a festive experience and highly recommended — especially with a group.

• Ebisu (Avenues) – It’s been here for 30 years and can be crowded. It’s among the best of the sushi bars in the city. Enjoy their creatively named rolls.

• Kiki Sushi (Avenues) – It’s a marvel that such excellent Japanese food is so reasonably priced. Named after the cartoon character Kiki, the walls here feature the artwork of Japan’s master animator Hayao Miyazaki (a modern day Walt Disney). It’s a pleasant spot.

• Japantown mall – One idea for exploring SF’s Japanese culture is to stroll through the mall beginning at Peace Plaza. In addition to the restaurants, which are enjoyed by Japanese locals and tourists alike, there are some fun shops and classic people-watching.

Mexican Mission burritos are famous and with good reason. These San Francisco concoctions are stuffed with copious amounts of delicious ingredients, and put a unique spin on traditional to-go Mexican food. • Taqueria La Cumbre (Mission) – According to columnist Carl Nolte, La Cumbre originated the Mission-style burrito. Why not go to the source!

• El Toro Taqueria (Mission) – This is a popular place for burritos and beyond. Very fresh ingredients. (Side note: it’s located next door to one of the only undertakers in the city.)

• La Canasta (Cow Hollow) – Who goes to Union Street for Mexican food? Yet this little shoebox is one of the great small burrito places hidden across the city. Canasta has been here for 25 years and is still managed by the same family. Order to go.

Pizza Some purists may prefer to see this listed in the Italian section. But pizzerias exist in their own beloved bubble nowadays and SF has good ones:

• Tony’s Pizza (North Beach) – At the corner of Grant and Green. Excellent pizza pies, pasta and more. After dinner, walk around Grant Street and catch some live music.

• Golden Boy Pizza – A good way to people-watch in North Beach at night: on the sidewalk with a slice of Golden Boy. Follow it up with a beer (or a root beer) at one of the many bars nearby.

• Escape from New York Pizza (various locations) – These dudes had a brilliant idea when they came up with this one: establish a local chain and offer cheap yet excellent slices of pizza, prepared lightning fast and scarfed down in a small, clean, festive setting. Seafood San Francisco and great seafood have gone hand in hand since the begin- ning. ‘Nuff said.

• Fisherman’s Wharf – Jefferson Street is where we pay tribute to the seafood industry which has long graced the city. As always, avoid the weekends when going to Fisherman’s Wharf, but do not miss the old-fashioned “fish market” featuring clam chowder, crab and shrimp cocktails to go. Picnic on a pier!

• Scoma’s (Fisherman’s Wharf ) – Authentic old world San Fran. Great seafood. It’s not on the main drag, which is good — walk down Scoma Alley and enjoy views of the Bay along the way.

• Swan Oyster Depot (Polk Gulch) – Walking up this section of , it may come as a surprise to encounter a long line creeping out of this place at lunchtime. It’s tasty, that’s why.

*AVOID THE CHAINS:

In today’s climate of chains across America, the venerable family-owned establishments need our support. Avoid the mega-corporate chains and instead patronize San Fran- cisco’s local independent restaurants and cafes!

Thai Food from Thailand offers a unique marriage of flavors — simple, raw mate- rials mixed with fresh flare. The city has some incredible spots that each create their own brand of Thai-San Francisco fusion. • Khan Toke Thai House (Avenues) – Similar to Chinatown’s Empress of China, there’s no Thai restaurant in the city like Khan Toke. Diners remove their shoes before entering the seating area, stepping into a beautiful lamp-lit room. Request a booth with views of the lovely garden in the backyard.

• King of Thai Noodle House #2 (Avenues) – Another example of a local independently-operated chain that endears itself to the community. These inexpensive dishes burst with flavor and style. Sit at the front window and enjoy Clement Street.

• Thai Cottage Restaurant (Avenues) – Come support the Outer Sunset! Restaurants are rare in this part of town but this place is a good standby, with rarely a wait. Debrief at Java Beach Café.

Vegetarian There was a time when announcing you were a vegetarian at dinner parties meant a sympathetic Awww and the hostess asking “Will this bowl of lettuce be enough for you?” Today, vegetarian means big flavors prepared by high end chefs. In addition to these selections below, count on most restaurants in SF to have good veg options, as well as gluten-free and other considerations.

• Green’s (Fort Mason) – There’s nowhere in the city like it... or in the world actually. Spectacular views of the Bay and a revolu- tionary restaurant that has become an institution.

• Gary Danko (Fisherman’s Wharf) – High-end vegetarian fare, world-renowned. One tip: be sure to make a reservation!

• Herbivore (Divisidero) – The name speaks for itself. They offer pure vegan fare and it’s quite good… This place has won numerous awards over the years for their creative meatless approach. * ADVENTURE ALERT * FOLLOW YOUR NOSE:

While on foot, a great way to find restau- rants can be to pay attention to sudden delicious wafts that sometimes fill the air. Adjust for wind direction, and try smelling your way to the next great restaurant!

WHO DID WE MISS?

The world’s 200+ countries have many cuisines to offer. How can you possibly narrow down the choices? This guide has selected categories based on their popularity city-wide but here are some spots that just couldn’t be left out -- even if they didn’t fit in any of the above categories.

• Burma Super – One of the best restaurants in San Francisco.

• Golden Gate Pizza & Indian Cuisine – It’s a bizarre location in a tiny strip-mall in the Outer Sunset (and yes, it’s an odd mixture) but this place crafts a mean Indian-style pizza.

• Tommy’s Joynt – This is how it used to be done: the old-fashioned Hofbrau, buffet-style. Tommy’s is like Thanksgiving dinner every day of the week. A dimly-lit restaurant that shines.

• Yummy Yummy Vietnamese – Another delicious place in one of the best neighborhoods in the city for foodies. Try the Viet- namese spring roll appetizers here.

• Park Chalet – An alternative to the crowded, touristy Beach Chalet upstairs. Locals come downstairs instead for a beer after an active day in Golden Gate Park. If you choose to head upstairs enjoy the historic San Fran fresco on the wall in the gift shop. There are many more great spots. Go out and discover them! (And go easy on us if we didn’t include one of your favorites!)

*ONE MORE THING -- OR TWO:

• For a comprehensive guide to restaurants in the city, try the Chronicle’s 49 Square Miles, an original well-maintained list of fascinating spots.

• The local food blogger Paolo Lucchesi does a great job of providing in-depth news on the SF restaurant scene.

*SEE WEBSITE FOR MORE RESTAURANT LINKS. CAFES

“[In the 1950s] the coffee that most Americans drank was, in fact, pretty bad. … A Dutchman named Alfred Peet, who had moved to San Francisco in 1955, began roasting his own coffee. Peet’s Coffee & Tea opened in Berkeley and spawned Starbucks, which opened its first store in Seattle in 1971, using coffee roasted by Peet’s.” –Carl Nolte SF Chronicle

hile high quality coffee may not have become common here Wuntil recent years, San Francisco and Berkeley have long been pioneers in marrying the coffee bean to American culture. Hills Brothers, Folgers and MJB were all manufacturing in the city 100 years ago and it was the city’s coffeehouses that found themselves at the center of the ‘50s Beat culture. Places like Caffe Trieste were among the first in America to serve espresso shots and today’s coffeehouse innovation continues.

You will not find any chains listed here! There’s plenty of time for that elsewhere. Why not enjoy a locally owned cafe? Wherever you go in the city, if you’re a coffee lover, keep your eyes open (and nose tuned) for places that pique your interest. Chances are that any café you choose will be better than what was available in the old days!

• Caffe Trieste (North Beach) – You’ll see real writers here, not just people typing in their next social networking update! This historic café in the heart of North Beach truly deserves a visit. • Blue Danube (Avenues) – Clement Street’s best cafe. The scene here can be almost as good as the coffee.

• Java Beach Cafe (Avenues) – At the edge of the Outer Sunset, surf within earshot, Java Beach stays open late at night (it’s not just for coffee). This place has quite a devoted following and if you can score a sunny day, snagging a seat out in front is a given!

• San Francisco Art Institute Café (Russian Hill) – A secret spot with amazing views, good coffee and cheap food options. Come to the Art Institute, one of the nicest campuses in the city.

• Fourbarrel Coffee (Valencia Street) – They take their craft seri- ously and it shows. Located near the beginning of Valencia Street. Ride your bike here for brownie points.

• Arizmendi Bakery (Avenues) – A cooperative-run cafe with nice ambiance. Spectacular baked goods and plenty of outdoor seating (later in the day this area is completely covered in shade). BARS/CLUBS

ike whiskey and a shot glass, saloons and San Francisco have been L going hand in hand since the Gold Rush. There are many types of watering holes here: small joints with big character, scenester clubs, Irish pubs, bar/restaurant bistros and places with real neighborhood ambiance — and plenty of places that can’t really be described, you just have to go there.

The word pub is an English nickname forpublic house and the city has some great representatives of this old tradition, places that really represent San Francisco’s many neighborhoods.

Old-timers lament the passing of San Francisco’s grittier, smoke-filled, cash-only dives that once filled the city: some have closed due to rising rents, permitting issues, and a host of other issues. Some revelers criticize the city’s closing time of 2 a.m. (after all, it ain’t the “city that never sleeps”) but night owls take refuge in private clubs and parties where time is less of a factor. Today’s bar scene still has plenty to offer.

It’s possible to match almost every interest if you know what you’re looking for and where to find it:

• Spec’s – This is on top of the list because it’s the coolest dive left in the city. Step back into North Beach’s Barbary Coast days and experience a cozy old spot that’s alive and well. The preference of a true pirate. • Vesuvio – Here exists San Francisco’s beloved bar, a loyal monument to the bygone days of bumbling Beats and their treats. Walls of vintage newspaper clippings and a large mural at the front entrance, with an alleyway named after Jack Kerouac... isn’t that enough? This is a great place to bring the hipsters who claim to truly be hip.

• Liverpool Lil’s – Who goes to the Marina for a drink? Wait a minute! But there’s Lil’s, a San Francisco classic on the edge of the Presidio which transports patrons to classier times. This lovely bar features comfort food and walls of SF memorabilia. Order a couple appetizers and a beer, a glass of wine or a cocktail. And linger... you will be changed.

• Buckshot – Former Pat O’Sheas Irish pub has been lovingly redecorated. Rock and roll comes to mind (and on the jukebox). This historic spot has long enabled drinkers and the people who love them. Late night grub is available.

• Bender’s – After nearly burning to the ground, the Bender is back and better than ever. A jukebox full of rock, good local bands, patrons’ bicycles parked inside, tasty kitchen vittles, Mission scenesters and strong drinks. ‘Nuff said?

*WHERE’S THE BAND, MAN?!

One black mark on the SF bar scene has been the decline of its long-standing tradition of live music and the city’s once-revolving door of great bands. Noise ordinances, DJs and less demand for live entertainment have all contrib- uted to the decline. So be sure to look out for today’s remaining live music venues and support them! (Rock on.) • Riptide – This is one of the Outer Sunset’s original old surf- er-soaked dives, previously known as the Sand Bar. Nowhere else in the city can monkeys be heard while emerging late at night from a bar. (It must be the zoo, located a few blocks away.) See live music here!

• El Rio – The Mission has many watering holes. This one is particularly well-loved with multiple places to chill, including a charming courtyard out in back and some eclectic live music. Enjoy the $1 PBR special on Mondays. This is an excellent way to experience the Mission.

• Brazen Head – Step back in time to 1920s San Francisco at this cozy bar with charming candle-lit tables lining the wall. Subtle lights in the front window offer hints to passersby without giving anything away (there’s no sign). Inside, bartenders who have been here for 20 years or more mix up a great selection of drinks. It’s a shining spot in Cow Hollow.

• Kezar Pub – The Haight doesn’t get many nods in this guide, but this particular joint is a gem. At the eastern edge of Golden Gate Park (on Stanyan near Haight) this is a good embarkation point/ meeting place featuring a rare parking lot across the street (at historic ).

• Bimbo’s 365 Club – A classy old place where you can experi- ence the feel of San Francisco’s jazz era. Listen to live music in a velvety, cool, luxurious environment.

• Cliff House – It doesn’t get much more classic San Francisco than this. In spite of its “vanilla” redesign a few years back, the location (read: the view) deserves respect. The bar downstairs is where to go. Avoid weekends and summers to ensure a more local experience. Ahh well it’s really about the view after all… • Trad’r Sam’s – Somehow this Polynesian-style pub with an old school feel way out at the end of manages to strike a balance between kitschy and cool. Check it.

• Pier 23 – One of the only places left on San Francisco’s water- front where you can have lunch and sit on a sprawling historic pier. Watch the seagulls, listen to great live music and drink some good beer. They have good food too.

• Elixir – Said to be one of the oldest continually-run saloons in San Francisco (since 1858), this was once billed as a soft drink parlor during Prohibition. “I’ll have a glass of milk!”

*BOOZE AND BOOKS:

“In San Francisco, the average annual per capita expen- diture on books is perennially among the highest in the nation. Same goes for booze: according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, San Francisco is the only city that ranks in the top three for both.” –New York Times GETTING AROUND

eciding on the right mode of transportation is one of the most D important elements of preparing for a good experience in the city. Here are the options in order of preference:

WALKING

This guide makes it simple to leave the car behind and focus on the best walking the city has to offer. You’ll notice things on foot that are otherwise easily missed.

The city was “made for walking” — it came of age in a time when people mainly traveled on foot. In those early days, the mid 1800s, the city’s terrain consisted of sand, wetlands, ominous hills and rocky cliffs. The horses and trollies were useless in many places and a home at the top of Telegraph Hill, for example, would have required its residents to walk to and from the abode. Today’s remaining stairways and narrow streets remind us of this early San Francisco — a city born during a time of car-less streets.

Some areas in the city are better for walking than others. Try one of the neighborhood streets recommended in this guide and stay on one street for a good while. This can be more rewarding than a complicated walking tour as you won’t have your nose stuck in a map and can see the street’s facets. It’s worth the effort to get in better shape for walking. Perhaps buy some new walking shoes, start an exercise program, whatever it takes. You don’t have to be a triathlete to walk here but you might as well be prepared — because it can actually be a very enjoyable experience.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * STAIRWAY WALKS:

The book Stairway Walks by Adah Bakalinsky introduces over 500 public staircases that cover the city’s hills. Here are some examples:

• 16th Ave. /Moraga – One of SF’s newest art projects: visit this beautiful “art stairway”

• Lyon Street (up Pacific Heights) – A breath- taking view awaits at the top (literally)

• Francisco staircase – On the way, turn onto Grant and rest at Jack Early Park

*There have been some downgrades to the walking experience in recent years. A good policy for ensuring a more pleasant walking experience in the city is to avoid busier streets and their intersections when possible.

BIKING

There was an age when bike messengers ruled the streets... a time when handwritten signatures were required on legal paperwork! In this era of Wild West biking, most of the folks on two wheels were maniacs. Today this has all changed and many cyclists follow bona fide bike lanes through the city on numbered routes. Some areas of the city are less prac- tical for biking so if you want to ride across town, refer to a specialized map with recommended bike routes and other tips.

One of the best places for biking is the Waterfront, which features mostly level areas and fewer intersections (as well as some of the best scenery). Bike rental facilities are easy to find on the Embarcadero — Valencia Street, Golden Gate Park and the Presidio are also great places to ride.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * A GIANT BIKE VALET:

Ride down the Embarcadero and attend a baseball game -- they provide free valet parking for your bike!

WATER TRANSPORT

If you’re near the waterfront and it’s a nice day, seeing the bay ON the bay is really the best way. San Francisco is surrounded by water, why not embrace it? Experience the beauty and unique vantage points from the water by hopping on a ferry.

Here are three ways to really experience the Bay:

• Try a short ride on a ferry or take a three-hour tour of Alcatraz — something you will always remember.

• If you have a few hours, a sense of adventure, and it’s a nice day, rent a kayak and paddle along the waterfront for a couple hours. • Swim at Aquatic Park, a small protected area near Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s a calm place to get your feet wet in the Bay. And if you just want to watch, show up by 8am to see swimmers take the plunge at The Dolphin Club (founded in 1877).

PUBLIC TRANSIT

San Francisco lacks the world’s best public transportation but there are some high points — including the city’s forever-cool cable cars and Bay Area (BART). For locals, the city’s transit system can be a source more for humor than of pride but when handled wisely, it’s a fun way to see the city. Some routes in particular offer glimpses into neighborhoods not often seen.

Trains

N-Judah One of the more popular lines in San Francisco is the well-loved N-Judah, part of a light-rail system that spans the city from east to west. The route’s extension to the Giants ballpark was a stroke of brilliance: now you can travel from the Pacific Ocean to the Bay along the Embarcadero to King Street and watch a ballgame.

San Francisco created a living collection of vintage streetcars from across the country (and world) after it purchased dozens of old streetcars that had been sitting in storage or scheduled for scrap heaps. Returned to good working order, they now decorate the city streets in fascinating styles and colors – particularly visible along the waterfront. Be on the lookout for these gems when you are out and about in the city! Cable Cars

California Street Begin at the bottom of Market Street (in front of the Hyatt Regency) and climb your way to the top of perilously steep Nob Hill – a great route that follows California Street. Hop off at the top of Nob Hill, next to the Fairmont Hotel, and observe one of the best views of the city. This is the least-crowded route and qualifies as a real San Francisco moment.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * JOY-RIDE!

Choose a train or bus route, follow it to a new neighborhood and see where the trip takes you... When you see an area that looks appealing, step off and walk.

Buses

The Municipal Railway (Muni) serving the city has been lambasted for its reliability but it does provide some unique ways to see the city. If you’re not in a hurry, try one of the following routes as a method for exploring the city.

22-Fillmore bus route The 22 is a good way to experience Fillmore Street, as well as Pacific Heights with its grand mansions and unbelievable views. Begin at the and head up the hill until you’re well into Fillmore Street. This is an all-elec- tric bus, and at stop signs it is completely quiet. For an adventure, continue on this line all the way to the Mission district.

*Interesting fact: A rivalry between the Marina and the Mission has included drinking contests and a tug of war. 43-Masonic bus route The 43 offers a beautiful winding tour through the Presidio forest, possibly the most thrilling bus ride in the city. Begin at Fort Mason, in view of the Golden Gate Bridge, and travel up into the Presidio, down Masonic Avenue to Haight Street for a few poignant blocks (including the intersection of Ashbury) and get off at 9th Avenue to enjoy the Inner Sunset.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * THE LONGEST RIDE:

For an Experience, take the 43 Masonic bus line to its terminus in the Excelsior district, just a few blocks from the city limits of San Francisco. It’s a long ride – from the very northern edges of the city to the southern- most border. But it’s a given that by the end of the line there will be no tourists in sight!

If You Have to Drive

Driving in the city is like traveling down an obstacle course. It can be seen as a thrilling game -- or simply a waste of time! Like many cities, there are distractions, obstructions, and detours for the driver: pedestrians stum- bling through crosswalks as they text, menacing meter maids with itchy fingers, bad drivers, bird-brained pigeons, torn up streets, and intoxicated jay-walkers…

It is tempting to bring a car into the city but it will make the city experi- ence better to ditch the car. If you’re arriving at SFO, try skipping the rental car and take BART instead. Here are guidelines if you do have to drive in the city:

• Stuck downtown on a traffic-filled day? Try the less traveled streets. There are usually more interesting things to see than on the primary traffic arteries anyway. SF is a large grid of streets, most of which are parallel to one another. So if you don’t like the street you’re on -- change your situation! In San Francisco, there are usually plenty of options.

• Where to park? Avoid overpriced parking lots. Stop highway robbery! Some particularly bad lots charge 50 bucks a day or more. No need for that... Look for the “early bird specials” signs downtown -- that can save you 50% or more if you show up by 9am. Better just to avoid downtown…

• Try staying at one of the Lombard Street motels or another prop- erty profiled in this guide which offers free parking and is well outside of downtown if possible. With this approach, you can leave your car for the day and go on day-trips without hassle.

• When to park? Avoid time periods when the streets are clogged with traffic. (In the congested Bay Area overall, too.) It’s good to be on the roads after 10 a.m. and be sure to avoid the period of 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. (On weekdays. Weekends there’s no safe time really, especially if there’s a big event or two in the city.)

• Parking tickets – By one estimate, the city makes upwards of $250,000 a day (issuing a minimum of 2 million parking tickets each year). That’s rude. An expired meter will cost you $72. Be sure to check signs along the street wherever you park and read the small print on meters to make sure you aren’t towed or tick- eted. Read the signs carefully! • If you have to drive, drive like you mean it, to help keep things moving! Experienced city drivers may consider a tentative (or lost) driver as one of the worst obstacles!

The city has more automobiles on any given day than ever before and it wasn’t built for that kind of use. Ditch Your Rig and Walk. ACCOMMODATIONS

here are hundreds of places to stay in the city. This guide recom- Tmends a short list based on just two criteria: neighborhood and priceline. The selections below simplify the overwhelming choices available. It’s a brief list, yes, but what’s here is highly recommended.

INEXPENSIVE:

• Fort Mason Youth Hostel – Probably the nicest hostel in the city thanks to its views of the Bay, its location at historic Fort Mason, and a unique ambiance. Of course, it’s still a hostel — so expect some snoring, plenty of smelly socks and “late-night surprises!”

• Lombard Street row – If you have traveled on America’s Route 66, you’ll recognize this: San Francisco’s row of motor lodges since the 1930s. Because of so much competition in such a small area you can find better selection and reasonable prices than most parts of the city. It’s a good place to ditch your car and head out on adventures across the city.

• Motel Capri – One of the classic Route 66-style motor lodges with car ports and units upstairs. You may recognize the Capri, as it has been featured in TV shows over the years. One block up from Lombard, so a bit more quiet. Reasonably priced (for SF):

• Hotel del Sol – Somewhat pricey for what appears to be just another motor lodge. But this is a real oasis with palm trees, colorful decor and a nice outdoor pool. One block up from Lombard Street means more quiet.

• Seal Rock Inn – This location at the western edge of the city has breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, which is unique for an old motor lodge. It may be simple and a bit dated but it’s cool.

• Marina Motel – A cluster of 1930s-style California beach bunga- lows on Lombard Street with a nice little courtyard. The rooms are small but it’s really an interesting hideaway.

Snazzy/Swank:

• Inn at the Presidio – One of the newest hotels in the City, this is a restored building at the edge of the Presidio’s Main Post. Incred- ible views, history, elegance and ambiance.

• W Hotel – An example of New San Francisco tipping its hat to The Old Classy without being contrived, elegant without trying to overdo it. Hip, youthful, festive.

• Fairmont – The elegant Fairmont on historic Nob Hill has views and history that are hard to beat. Check out the well-known downstairs. The old Mark Hopkins mansion across the street is a San Francisco gem as well. Unique accommodations

• Air BnB, VRBO, Craigslist, Couchsurfing, et al – Pick a website and dive in. Each site offers many options for booking a short or long stay directly with locals, from couches to small studio sublets to renting a big flat or a houseboat for the weekend.

• Phoenix Hotel – If it’s good enough for rock and roll… For many years, touring bands have stayed at the Phoenix after gigs in the city. On the edge of the dirty Tenderloin, it has add-on features not common in other parts of the city, like bamboo growing along a beautiful swimming pool and space in the outdoor parking lot for a band’s tour buses!

• Rob Hill Campground – Few realize camping is possible in the city (safely, legally and enjoyably). The Presidio’s recently finished renovation of this peaceful hilltop campground affords beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean.

*HEY, ROOMIE:

One technique that new residents use to afford life in a high-rent city like SF is to find some roommates. It’s almost a right of passage for San Franciscans and if you’re under 30, there is about a 100% chance you will have roommates at some point. Today’s studio apartments can go for $2,000 or more a month, so pooling resources in a larger house is helpful. CULTURAL ACTIVITIES

“Money is not the No. 1 thing in San Francisco … I like that about this city. People come here to make money, but unlike New York they’re also here to see new ideas come to fruition.” - Susan MacTavish Best

here are many cultures and interests among San Franciscans. It’s Tsomething the city is renowned for. In one of the least homogenized cities in America, you will see things here that you will not see elsewhere. The following list is only an introduction. Go out and explore!

Architecture

• – On the edge of Alamo Square, this famous row of Victorian homes is one of the most photographed in the city. Wander the area to see more, including the house on the corner of Fulton/Scott. Alamo Square has nice sweeping views of the city.

• Presidio of San Francisco – Seize the opportunity to witness 200 years of architecture. From Spanish to modern, adobe to brick, the Main Post in particular has a lot to see.

• City Hall – During business hours, walk inside to marvel at the grand rotunda. View the exterior of the dome around sunset or after dark to see the dome with its lights on. • Fisherman’s Wharf – Old buildings like Ghirardelli, which set down roots in 1852, and the nearby Anchorage make this area more than just a tourist destination.

• Seacliff – Long the home of beloved resident Robin Williams, this is a beautiful, eclectic mixture of houses and mansions, with some nice customized mid-20th century designs.

Bookstores

• Green Apple – One of the best symbols of soulful San Francisco, this venerable bookstore is a gem of Clement Street. A huge selection of new, used and local books.

• City Lights – In the 1950s, well described in the book Season of the Witch, City Lights was “a beacon to the poets, wanderers, and angel-headed hipsters who were making their way to San Francisco.” Their ‘zine section and Poetry Room upstairs still honor these traditions. A visit to City Lights is a given for any book lover or Beatnik.

• Valencia Street’s Dog Eared Books, Adobe and Borderlands are all well-worth a visit.

*FREE BOOKS:

Public libraries are among San Francisco’s most beloved places. Visit the Main Branch near City Hall and enjoy the unique 90s architecture. It’s a refuge for San Francis- cans and visitors alike. Churches and Temples

The city was named after Saint Francis and was traditionally a very Catholic town (dating from 1776 as the Spanish established the Mission here). Today it is obvious that SF is not “religion central.” Yet some of the city’s churches and temples are celebrated for their beauty and historical importance across the geography of San Francisco.

• Grace Cathedral – The crown of Nob Hill, this masterpiece invites the curious and the clergy alike for prayer and simple contemplation. Regardless of religious inclination, Grace Cathe- dral strengthens the belief in all that is good in the world.

• Glide Memorial – This church is an institution: a refuge for the Tenderloin’s masses.

• Old Saint Mary’s – Near Chinatown at Grant and California, it’s the first cathedral built in California (1853). Also see massive New St. Mary’s on top of Cathedral Hill.

• Temple Emanu-El – A celebrated gathering place for the city’s Jewish population, its congregation was formed in 1850 — the first established west of the Mississippi River.

• Holy Virgin Cathedral – This Russian Orthodox church has five huge golden “onion domes” that are distinct in this modest neighborhood on the outer edges of the city.

• SF Zen Center – A small network of Soto Zen retreat centers began in the city in the early 1960s and includes Tassajara and Muir Beach, featuring beautiful gardens. *CLOISTERED TRADITIONS:

A number of monasteries and convents are located in the city, including hundreds of nuns and monks. Here is a hint that SF may not be the “godless place” some pundits claim it to be!

Comedy

• Sketchfest – San Francisco comedy festival held every January.

• Cobb’s Comedy Club – On the edge of North Beach, a great spot for laughs.

• Punch Line – A downtown nightclub with some great acts.

• Bars and clubs – There’s a renaissance happening: venues all over the city hosting live comedy. Check the weekly SF newspaper for shows happening almost every night.

Farmers markets

• Ferry Plaza Farmers Market – One of the most celebrated high-end farmers markets in the country. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at the Ferry Building.

• Alemany Farmers Market – Founded in 1943, it’s California’s first official farmers market. For a real experience, arrive early at this busy, sprawling marketplace for a huge cheap selection and unique products.

• Heart of the City Farmers Market – At UN Plaza near City Hall (Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays).

• Neighborhoods – Many parts of the city have farmers markets. Check this list for more. Gardens

• San Francisco Botanical Garden – An incredible place to enjoy California’s diversity of trees, herbs, wildflowers, succulents, and more. Fifty-five acres of sprawling gardens also include species from across the world. Spend a few hours here.

• – The oldest building in Golden Gate Park, this 1878 Victorian greenhouse features 16,000 frosted panes of glass. A must-see.

• Fort Mason Community Garden – The nicest refuge of small garden plots in the city.

• Community gardens are spread throughout the city. Consult this map.

* ADVENTURE ALERT * FIRST TUESDAYS:

Many city museums and attractions offer free admission on First Tuesdays and First Sundays. Find out more here.

Museums

• Alcatraz – Unique in every way, this island prison is a must-see. Features a new display highlighting the Indian occupation of Alcatraz, an important moment in SF history.

• Exploratorium – For kids, nothing beats the Exploratorium: amazing interactive scientific, biology and sensory exhibits will entertain any kid from age 5 to 95. • Palace of the – The nicest spot in the city for art and contemplation.

• Hyde Street Pier – A collection of vintage ships and boats that celebrate the storied past of the City’s maritime lifestyle on the edge of Fisherman’s Wharf.

• Walt Disney Family Museum (in the Presidio) – The only museum in the world covering the life of Walt Disney, illumi- nating his early life, animation evolution, innovations and more. Operated as a nonprofit by the Walt Disney Family Foundation.

* TIP: The Aquarium of the Bay, Academy of Sciences and Hyde Street Pier are some great museums that focus on the Bay’s environment. Be sure to visit at least one of these gems.

Music

• Amoeba – Places like this independent record shop give San Francisco soul. New and used vinyl, CDs, DVDs and more. Go here even if you hate the Haight!

• Live music venues – Slim’s, , Independent, and many more. Here’s an old school technique: pick up a copy of SF’s weekly newspaper (at street corner newspaper receptacles) and check the ads in the back pages where you’ll find good gigs any night of the week.

• The Fillmore – This classic, early 20th Century dance hall went on to host the thriving music scene of the 1960s. See a show here and enjoy their wall packed with original collectible rock posters! *There really should be a place in the city that celebrates the history of music in San Francisco. (Like Seattle’s Experience Music.) A new museum in SF is in order but in the meantime, check out these spots:

• Broadway Studios – This old art deco-era music hall hosted explosive punk and metal shows in the 70s and 80s in North Beach. Check out this history and visit it if you can.

• Remnants of SF’s original Jazz scene can be found on Fillmore Street. Like these places.

• The Saloon - This is a living legend in North Beach. Live music has been churning for many decades at this small venue. A visit here is a view into a long-standing tradition of tunes in the city.

• Stern Grove Festival – This is a free music festival held each summer in an outdoor amphitheater surrounded by a grove of eucalyptus trees. Since 1938, worth seeing.

• Hardly Strictly Bluegrass – A world-renowned festival featuring plenty of Americana. Plan your trip to SF just to see this free music extravaganza – it’s the best time of year.

*WHEN SAN FRANCISCO WORKS WELL:

Warren Hellman, founder and financier of Hardly Strictly Bluegrass who passed away in 2011, threw a huge annual party each fall in the park, featuring some of his favorite fellow musicians. For free. Warren said: “How could you have more fun than that? What the hell is money for if it isn’t for something like that?”

*Be sure to visit the Warren Hellman Museum behind music venue Slim’s (Wednesdays only) Street Festivals, Parades and Events

There are far too many events in the city to list but here’s a good start:

• Street festivals – Fillmore Jazz Festival, Union Street, North Beach, Oktoberfest

• Parades – Chinese New Year, Day of the Dead, Carnaval, Pride, LovEvolution

• Sunday Streets – a great new way to spend the day outdoors.

• Critical Mass – Join this historic bike ride (you have to be very comfortable on a bike)

* ADVENTURE ALERT * FREEDOM OF (LOUD) SPEECH:

Be on the lookout for a good old-fashioned San Francisco protest. They’re an important SF tradition and you might just hear it before you see it… Join in if you agree with the cause!

Shopping

• Clement Street – between 2nd Avenue and 8th Avenue

• Fillmore Street – between Lombard Street and Geary Blvd.

• Valencia Street – between 15th Street and 24th Street

• Treasure Island Flea Market (a good excuse to go to the island) *AN ANTI-AD AD:

There’s a proud tradition of excluding chain stores in some neighborhoods in the city. Given the choice, why patronize large corporations when you can support local businesses?

Sports

• Golden Gate Park offers a wide selection of sports options: tennis, lawn bowling, archery, horseshoes, soccer games, baseball, ulti- mate frisbee, football, fishing, a disc golf course, boat racing and paddle boats.

• Hockey and ice skating – year-round at the Yerba Buena Ice Skating & Bowling Center.

• Golf courses – There are some beautiful courses in the city like Lincoln Park, the Presidio and Harding Park.

• SF Giants – The champions boast a sweet ballpark. Ride your bike here for a game and enjoy free valet bike parking or go kayaking in McCovey cove.

• – If you get the chance, come see it before it disappears forever. The site of many Giants and 49ers games and where the last Beatles gig was played! * ADVENTURE ALERT * THE STICK:

In 2016, the Super Bowl will take place at the new home of the San Francisco 49ers -- which is an hour south of the city. (The question on some locals’ minds is, How exactly can that be referred to as San Fran- cisco?!) Visit the ‘Stick today before it’s gone!

Theatres

• – San Francisco’s finest remaining “grand theatre” – the way movies used to be seen… Today the Castro screens diverse, whimsical and entertaining films and cultural events. If you’re a film buff, go see a flick!

• Cinearts West Portal theatre – In the tradition of the old neigh- borhood theatres. West Portal is a great street to roam before or after a show: classic San Francisco.

• Balboa Theatre – This small theatre is another great 1930s-style neighborhood gem.

• Sundance Kabuki – A slightly megaplex style but still offers a San Francisco feel. Located in Japantown, bring a date to dinner and walk around before or after seeing a film.

• Film Night in the Park – Go to a drive-in movie minus the cars. It’s a summer tradition.

• Mime Troupe – In summer only, the best live political theatre you’ll ever see. Classic SF.

• Beach Blanket Babylon – A North Beach revue that is famous for topical political and social satire. This is truly unique SF theatre! • Magic Theatre – Locally-produced shows on a small charming Fort Mason stage.

• SHN – This company produces many of the city’s plays and musicals, managing three of its historic theatres: the Orpheum, Curran, and Golden Gate.

*”DON’T GET HOODWINKED!”

Some multiplexes are charging 15 bucks now. Huh?! Don’t let this kind of rudeness disrupt your city theatre-going experiences and remember the alternatives: locally-owned neighborhood joints like the Balboa. There’s almost always a good way to save money in the city and it can become a source of pride when you avoid getting ripped off!

Tours

In the spirit of providing local alternatives to the corporate-driven tour bus experiences, the following is a collection of local tour operators offering fun, educational tours of the city:

• City Guides - A great place to start with many unique tours of SF.

• Think Walks – Dubbed as “Nerdy Tours for San Franciscans” -- a good way to see the city from a local’s perspective. For visitors and residents too!

• Shaping San Francisco – In-depth tours of the city by bike.

Other

Here are some additional ideas for events and activities taking place across the city. There are literally hundreds more to discover… • Commonwealth Club – San Francisco is renowned for its explo- ration of politics and important current events. So come see one of these top-notch locally produced events!

• Litquake – Bay Area author readings, discussions, and literary parties, a unique October event.

• Film festivals – SF is home to some great festivals. The San Fran- cisco Independent Film Festival is merely the tip of the iceberg.

• SFO – If you have a few hours on a layover, be sure to visit the beautiful international terminal. Spectacular architecture, good local restaurants and bars abound here. Crazy idea: Take BART there and have dinner!

* ADVENTURE ALERT * FINDING THE HIDDEN CITY:

Gaze at a good map and plan things to see: you’ll find ideas this way that you probably wouldn’t otherwise. And remember: if someone gives you a suggestion to try something that sounds edgier than usual, why not try it out… It’s part of the adventure of San Francisco!

*For a more exhaustive list of daily events and activities in SF, try this site: http://www.sfstation.com/ PARKS/OUTDOORS

“Golden Gate National Recreation Area is the biggest urban park in the country and second in visitation, with 17 million visitors a year.” –San Francisco Chronicle

f you want to get away from the crowds, the City has you covered. I There are more than a hundred parks across the city, including Golden Gate Park and the Presidio, together comprising about one-fifth of the city’s footprint.

Walking in its parklands is one of the best ways to enjoy the natural parts of the city. Here are some places to start:

• Crissy Field – This restored lagoon in the Presidio is a great place for a walk.

• Bay Area Ridge Trail – Commit to a day or two and follow this well-maintained trail along the higher elevations of the city, including the Presidio’s forest.

• Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail – Follow the Span- iards’ original footsteps through quiet parts of the Presidio. *A PLACE FOR NATURE:

The heroes of the Bay Area conservation movement have made it one of the best metropolitan areas in the world for biodiversity and open space: David Brower, Rep. Phil Burton, Brian O’Neil, Marti Griffin, and the four brave women who founded Save the Bay in the early sixties are among many residents who stood up to development interests and won... And we tip our hats to them.

Camping

• Rob Hill – The Presidio just finished a multi-year renovation of this peaceful campground on a hill in a forest above the Pacific Ocean.

• Kirby Cove – Just across the Golden Gate Bridge, this camp- ground is worth the trip.

• Angel Island – Go there if you really want to get away from it all yet be just two miles from the city, as the seagull flies. The ferry brings you over for the day (or the night if you decide to camp). Picnic spots and hiking/biking paths cover this large island.

Ecotourism

Ecotourism refers to methods of exploring the outdoors which take into account ecological integrity. It’s less about plane tours, helicopters, high speed boats and noisy watercraft and more about wildlife viewing platforms, boats that are in tune with the aquatic environment (like sailboats) and serene trails that enable wildlife to thrive in its habitat. San Francisco is the best city in America to experience the widest range of ecotourism options in a dense urban environment. Here are some great places to start:

• Whale watching trips – Take a trip to the Farallones and view some incredible wildlife

• Sea lions – Watch the antics of the famous sea lion colony on the tip of San Francisco’s Pier 39

• Sailing – Join a sailboat or catamaran tour for a cool water-level view of the bay

Kids’ Activities

• Aquatic Park – This historic harbor has a small beach with safe wading areas

• Golden Gate Park – Set kids loose on the park’s many spectacular playgrounds

• Exploratorium – Amazing interactive exhibits will entertain kids from age 5 to 95

• Crissy Field – Visit the Farallones Visitor Center, climbing wall, and beach

• Seward Street Slides – near the geographic center of the city, these unique concrete chutes are a blast, located high up on Kite Hill (near Seward and 19th Street)

GOLDEN GATE PARK

Museums, lakes, ponds, waterfalls, playgrounds, hiking and biking trails, hidden gardens and secret forests, plenty of recreation opportunities… That’s Golden Gate Park.

If you’re going to spend time exploring the park, it’s worth buying the official map, a helpful, organized guide. If you decide not to buy one, at least locate one of the physical map kiosks around the park to get better acquainted with the layout. There are many one-of-a-kind activities here that make for great adventures.

Large crowds fill the eastern half of the park on most weekends and holidays so try a weekday or visit the less crowded half of the park, west of 19th Avenue.

• Academy of Sciences – Recently renovated (don’t miss their Living Rooftop upstairs)

• Lindy in the Park – a long-standing tradition of dancing, skating and posturing

• Stow Lake – A popular feature of the park since its beginnings. Rent a paddleboat!

• National AIDS Memorial Grove – A reflective area of the park that pays respect to victims of the AIDS epidemic

• Buffalo paddock – A lonely herd of Bison has been present on JFK Drive since the 1890s • Disc Golf Course – One of the best things to do in the park. The course opened in 2007, with 18 holes north of JFK Drive (between 25th and 30th Ave.). It’s a sprawling course built into the contours of the forest and can be a bit challenging. Bring your own discs!

• Japanese Tea Garden – One of the nicest spots in the park, featured in the film Memoirs of a Geisha

* ADVENTURE ALERT * GO OFF THE BEATEN PATH:

Golden Gate Park has some truly wild areas. While walking through this oasis, try looking up to the sky: you may see a Red-tailed hawk gliding over. Follow a trail and see where it leads… ECOLOGY OF THE CITY

n a hilltop, in a quiet neighborhood park, or in a boat on the OBay, the place of San Francisco itself inspires a sense of wonder. San Francisco’s location at the tip of a small peninsula, with the Pacific Ocean at its west and the Bay at its east, gives it a wide open feeling. Its steep hills provide the views and the Bay offers the open vistas which allow the city to breathe.

It really is a city defined by its hill. There are more than 40 hilltops in the city. With the second highest population density of any city in the United States (after New York City) San Francisco manages to have the best of both worlds with parks, open space preserves, and a public that has worked to protect them. Thousands of sea birds cover the waterfront, hundreds of sea lions live year-round on city docks, and whales, sharks and dolphins are seen across the Bay… The list goes on but San Francisco has long proven it’s a friend to wildlife.

Carpets of thick redwood forest once covered the East Bay hills. They were logged out by the late 1800s but a few pockets remain. In San Francisco, during the time of the Miwok and Ohlone tribes, trees grew only in limited areas. It had been relatively barren of tree cover until hundreds of thousands of pine, cypress and eucalyptus were planted in Golden Gate Park by the City, as well as in the Presidio by the Army. The on San Francisco’s west edge shuts down often due to the blowing sands of the nearby sand dunes. Left to its devices, the wind and sea would quickly reclaim the entire western portion of the city within a year or two. The area that the city was built on originally consisted largely of wind-swept sand dunes. This sand and mud still submerged under the city streets helps explain why the effects of earthquakes can vary across the geography -- some places get hit hard (like the Marina district in 1989).

Weather

It’s one of the few large cities known for its fresh air. And it might be too fresh if you’re a tourist caught off guard by its cold August winds.

Sometimes, when the fog is in full swing, a week can go by when a resident in one of the city’s coastal micro-climates may forget there is a continent of summer just a few miles to the east. From where they stand, it’s wintertime.

Author Harold Gilliam, a longtime expert on the city’s weather, iden- tified nine different types of fog including domes, arches, wreaths, eddies and “fog falls” -- as in waterfalls! Sometimes fog banks can build as high as a mountain out on the ocean and, slowly moving onshore, can create true feelings of horror.

The city’s famous foghorns are activated automatically upon the pres- ence of fog and, on particularly cold, foggy nights on the waterfront you can hear them echoing across the Bay.

Try San Francisco in the off-season if possible. (Spring and Fall are nice.) If you’re signed up for summer, be sure to take layers of clothing with you at all times because you never know when it may drop from 70 degrees to 50 due to wind chill in the course of a couple hours. HISTORY OF THE CITY

“[With] the influx of gold-seekers and the horde of gamblers, thieves, harlots, politicians, and other felonious parasites who battened upon them, there arose a unique criminal district that for almost seventy years was the scene of more viciousness and depravity … than any other area of vice and iniquity on the American continent.” -from The Barbary Coast by Herbert Asbury

Quiet Beginnings

In June 1776, a group of Europeans set foot on a bluff above the site of today’s Golden Gate Bridge. The Spanish had claimed it and began enlisting the local tribes to construct a mission, farms and ranches. Their compound was christened San Francisco de Asis.

This all took place just as the American Revolutionary War had begun, yet this small outpost was not to become part of the United States for another 75 years. England, Spain, Russia, and the United States had all vied for stra- tegic footholds on the rugged Pacific Coast yet San Francisco Bay’s perfect natural harbor had eluded them for centuries. The English in particular sent a number of expeditions, including Sir Francis Drake nearly 200 years earlier, yet the Bay’s narrow entrance had escaped their notice. In 1769, the magnificent estuary was finally spotted by a small party of Spanish explorers. On a windswept ridge, after traveling over the Santa Cruz Mountains, an expedition led by Don Gaspar de Portola first observed the expansive Bay. The windswept sand dunes and steep rocky hills from which San Fran- cisco would arise had long been inhabited by the Yelamu, a peaceful tribe that fished and gathered food on the shoreline, trading with other tribes in the region. A few hundred Yelamu people were living in a network of small villages, settling along creeks, inlets and lakes.

These people, and the other indigenous people representing the Ohlone and Miwok tribes, were drafted by a handful of Spanish settlers to build the Mission and the Presidio, to oversee new ranching and farming operations and convert the Indians to Catholicism. Almost immediately, the Indians began suffering from disease and conflicts. But even more challenges lay ahead for the region’s indigenous people – especially the discovery of gold to the east.

The Gold Rush: A Ruckus

The population of this small outpost exploded from 1,000 residents in 1848 to 20,000 one year later. Officially incorporated as San Francisco on April 15, 1850, part of the brand new state of California, it soon became an opulent showcase for Gold Rush wealth and a playground for the sailors and miners who disembarked along the city’s gritty waterfront. It was the most important financial headquarters in the West and would stay that way for another 100 years.

Famous city fathers like Levi Strauss made fortunes outfitting prospec- tors with supplies and handling their money. It is now widely known that most of the wealth from the Gold Rush came not from the gold itself but from selling goods to the tens of thousands of prospectors who flooded in, many of whom would pay top dollar for groceries and other essentials. There was a high environmental cost to the Gold Rush: mountains of redwoods were clear-cut throughout and water quality in the Bay went from crystal clear to brown as mud when silt, sewage and toxins began gushing down the Sacramento River. Wildlife from the Sierras to the Farallones took a hit as species were driven to extinction, including the mighty grizzly bear. Indian people were hunted down en masse and most of their historic territory was occupied.

Sailors and seamen now represented the city’s primary influences. They came for adventure and they didn’t have much to lose. A lust for wealth and an insatiable appetite for gambling, intoxication and female companionship would spawn the infamous Barbary Coast.

The Barbary Coast became a Wild West where gambling parlors oper- ated at all hours (Sundays too, of course) and bordellos stayed open from noon to noon. Opium dens spilled out from Chinatown and dastardly rascals rigged saloons with trap doors where they kidnapped able-bodied men, who were drugged and shanghaied, waking up on ships bound for Asia with no turning back.

Then as now, San Francisco swelled with characters. One such figure who became a legend during these years was Emperor Norton, an Englishman who arrived with the throngs of gold miners but lost his fortune. He soon declared himself “Emperor of the United States” and was treated accord- ingly, becoming the city’s de facto mascot, an eccentric figurehead who issued his own proclamations and patrolled the city streets in a custom- made military-style uniform featuring a beaver hat. He decided to issue his own currency and, in a testament to the city’s humor and good nature, restaurants accepted his promissory notes and hung signs declaring their properties “By Appointment to his Imperial Majesty, Emperor Norton.” The Great Earthquake: Another Ruckus

On April 18, 1906 just before sunrise a huge earthquake shook the city awake, setting off fires that would destroy half the city. Overnight, 200,000 residents were homeless. Refugee camps were set up on the fringes of the city, the largest in the Presidio. Today, two of these cabins are on display near the Presidio’s Main Post.

Jack London covered the devastation as a reporter, approaching the city by boat from Marin County as smoke from the disaster spread over the Bay. “Flames were leaping upward in a dozen different quarters south of Market Street, in the working-class ghetto, and in the factories,” he wrote. “All the shrewd contrivances and safeguards of man had been thrown out of gear by thirty seconds’ twitching of the earth-crust.”

Although it was one of the largest natural disasters of all time, recon- struction began in earnest and, with huge helpings of civic pride and large investments, San Francisco rebounded to host the widely praised 1915 Pana- ma-Pacific International Exposition. This epic fair celebrated the Panama Canal’s completion and a spectacular remnant of the epic fair still remains today: the massive at the edge of the Presidio.

Before long, the city’s population was surging past 500,000 residents, one of the most populous American cities. On the West Coast, San Fran- cisco was by far the largest city -- with a higher population than Los Angeles for much of the 20th Century.

Despite its history as a hotbed of hedonism, San Francisco by the 1920s was a respectable city and the financial center of the West Coast with the headquarters of Bank of America, Wells Fargo, the Pacific Stock Exchange, and other financial institutions. Bloody Thursday to World War II

A powerful business climate fueled by industrialists and bankers had the city in a bind by the 1930s as conflicts erupted between employers and dock- workers. San Francisco was the West Coast’s largest port and its waterfront was packed with ships from all over the world.

Longshoremen, who loaded and unloaded the ships, went on strike and triggered a series of events that would affect the city for decades. On Bloody Thursday, July 5, 1934, strikebreakers began moving cargo and the protesters went into full swing. Police fired into the crowd, assembled at Rincon Hill near the Bay Bridge, two men were killed and another 100 injured. A funeral procession was held and after it had crawled up Market Street, stoking flames of rage, a citywide General Strike was called in solidarity with the dockworkers. The city was at a standstill.

As tense negotiations ended, a settlement had been reached giving unions some key concessions, one of many union victories across the country during this time.

Life on San Francisco’s waterfront would return to normal again but only for a while—the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941 meant huge changes to every resident in the city. The undisputed Gateway to the Pacific, San Fran- cisco Bay was the first line of defense for the expected invasion by the Japa- nese. World War II wore on and shipyards began transforming the shoreline of the Bay, huge Liberty ships by the dozen began churning out of previously quiet hamlets like Sausalito.

Remnants of this military past can be found today in the Marin Head- lands and former installations along the coast. The Presidio has many places to explore as well. “It was a small city nestled into the hills. All the buildings were white, there were no skyscrapers. It felt Mediterranean. It was beautiful.” - (on SF before its new developments in the 1970s)

Beats to Revolution

After the war, the city’s next era was ushered by the burgeoning Beat Gener- ation. Lawrence Ferlinghetti and raised eyebrows with their publication of the poem “Howl” – and San Francisco and City Lights book- store became ground zero for a literary revolution. Jack Kerouac followed soon with the beatific .

Across from City Lights on Broadway, the Condor became the first topless nightclub in America to advertise in broad daylight, welcoming patrons inside the plush velvet walls. San Francisco’s Barbary Coast—which had promoted unhinged hedonism in the past—now hosted demonstrations of free speech challenging the staid 1950s mentality. A new cultural move- ment was taking shape, fueled by the swing, jazz, blues and rock and roll coming out of the doorways of the city’s nightclubs… The youth of America was really getting ready to shake things up.

“[San Francisco was] a sanctuary during the 1950s, a place where the conservatism and conformity of the McCarthy era weren’t so stifling...” -Rebecca Solnit Within a few short years, something potent was brewing in a quiet corner of the city, a small neighborhood near Golden Gate Park called Haight-Ashbury. Young people protesting the Vietnam War mingled with a talented community of local rock bands, folk singers and intellectuals like Timothy Leary, who were introducing LSD and other kinds of psychedelics to a generation keenly interested in exploring their new-found freedom.

By the time 1965 rolled around, much of San Francisco consisted of working class families who held relatively conservative values and, as the movement emerged, it was not a love fest for everyone in the city. A close look back at mid-20th Century San Francisco exposes the ebb and flow of the political and ideological makeup of the city through the years.

In the book Season of the Witch, David Talbot writes that before the 1960s, “the city was anti-black, anti-gay, anti-woman. It was a very uptight Irish Catholic city.” That was all about to change. Young people from across the country began converging. From these revolutionary times people like Joan Baez, Peter Coyote and other well-known cultural icons would emerge. Bands like the , , Santana, and Janis Joplin’s Big Brother and the Holding Company would change the world of music and the city along with it.

A new, highly creative SF emerged: an irreverent idealistic community of peace and love -- with a bog dose of rock and roll. This youth-driven culture began to transform San Francisco and today the city remains largely affected by this younger demographic -- especially in comparison to most American cities. The 70s and 80s

The Sixties ended with turmoil following the assassinations of Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King and the ongoing conflict in Vietnam. Grisly events rocked the city in the 70s, including the horrific “Zodiac” murders, the assassination of Mayor George Moscone and Harvey Milk, and a mass suicide by Jim Jones and his People’s Temple congregation, many of whom had been from San Francisco.

Movies such as Dirty Harry put on display the gritty atmosphere during these years. As the decade of the 80s began, AIDS became another black mark on the city and took the lives of many residents. Thousands of people died during the epidemic and residents wondered how far it would go.

It was football that lifted the spirits of the city’s residents during quar- terback Joe Montana’s run with the San Francisco 49ers to multiple Super Bowl victories during the 1980s. The team united San Franciscans of many backgrounds and drew the nation’s attention to a magical team – and a magical place. The city was now regularly winning top honors for most popular tourist destination.

“WHERE ARE THE SUITS, MAN?”

One big difference between today’s city and yesteryears’ is the garb. Historically, men wore suits and women wore fashionable dresses, hats and gloves while out on the town. Today’s informal dress code (which took effect in the 1990s dot com boom) transformed fashion so much that wearing jeans downtown has become commonplace – for men and women both! There are benefits to this more casual approach of course (like less time in front of a mirror and less cash expended on clothing) but there was also a certain pride and mystique in San Francisco’s cosmopolitan customs. Today you can still dress to the nines, you just might be the only person doing it!

The Loma Prieta earthquake struck in October of 1989 at Candlestick Park, as the San Francisco Giants and were beginning the first game of the World Series. As the nation watched on television, a stadium full of shocked spectators disappeared from the screen. As the signal went to black, news anchors like Tom Brokaw recounted the disaster unfolding across the city. The Bay Bridge, Marina district and Oakland’s Cypress structure experienced the worst effects with 63 people dead and nearly 4,000 injured.

The ill-fated “Bay Bridge series” was an afterthought by the time it resumed a week later, and the Giants were swept by the Oakland A’s. The Giants finally won their World Series in 2010 (and again in 2012) and the team was celebrated by residents for their victories as well as for candidly expressing the spirit of modern-day San Francisco -- in all its quirkiness. MORE RESOURCES

FILMS

Movies and TV shows filmed in San Francisco are a good way to get to know the city better. Watch a few of these before you go and the rest when you return home.

Some of the greatest films of all time shot in San Francisco:

• The Birds (1963)

• Bullitt (1968)

• Dirty Harry (1971)

• Mrs. Doubtfire (1993)

• Pursuit of Happyness (2006)

• Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1978)

• Star Trek IV: The Voyage Home (1986)

• Zodiac (2007)

• Milk (2008)

• Dogfight (1991)

• Vertigo (1958)

• Escape from Alcatraz (1979)

• Streets of San Francisco (1972-1977) Here’s a short summary of each film:

• The Birds – Even with its outdated special effects, director Alfred Hitchcock’s eerie skills capture the city in a magical era (as well as beautiful Bodega Bay). It’s a creepy film. Still.

• Zodiac – one of the most authentic films about SF in the 1970s, the chilling account of the city’s horrific Zodiac serial murderer. (As a bonus, read a movie review written by a Chronicle reporter who was involved in the original events.)

• Bullitt – The movie that first showed the world that San Francis- co’s streets are the best for a car chase. Especially if you want to “get some air.” Steve McQueen in the City.

• Dirty Harry – poor Clint is on a wild goose chase across the city, including a stop at the mythical Mount Davidson cross. For a fun geography lesson of SF, watch this flick.

• Mrs. Doubtfire – Not only does it star San Francisco’s beloved comedian Robin Williams, the film’s locations and characters offer a view of San Francisco in the early 90s.

• Pursuit of Happyness – A meticulous recreation of San Francisco in the early 1970s. Filmed in authentic locations across the city, with hundreds of local extras.

• Invasion of the Body Snatchers – There were aspects of the 1970s in San Francisco that can’t really be conveyed by trying to explain them. This film pulls off the task in a very eerie way. It’s one of the only remakes that is superior to the original. Scary, slightly campy, but masterfully shot and well acted. Stars San Francisco. • Star Trek – Even if you’re not a science fiction fan, this kitschy flick has fun with San Francisco in the 1980s. The crew travels back in time to the city and encounters punk rockers with boom boxes. Nice scenery, including the Golden Gate Bridge and Golden Gate Park.

• Milk – Sean Penn’s Oscar-winning performance as San Francis- co’s 1970s activist and supervisor Harvey Milk.

• Dogfight – A very unique view of San Francisco over the course of one night. Captures the feeling of San Francisco neighbor- hoods after-hours. Stars an on-fire River Phoenix.

• Vertigo – Alfred Hitchcock shot many films around San Fran- cisco but this one has the best scenes and locations, including Fort Point and Mission Dolores’ 200-year old graveyard. Good shots of driving slowly throughout the city in 1958!

• Escape from Alcatraz – Three con-men plan an escape from the infamous “impossible to escape from” island prison. A classic. (For the record, today’s Escape from Alcatraz triathlon includes hundreds of “escapees” making the swim from the island to the city. So it can be done!)

• Streets of San Francisco – OK, it’s not a movie but if you watch the series on video this lovingly produced and well-acted TV series becomes a very, very long movie featuring authentic San Francisco film-making. Lots of great scenery and cinematog- raphy, as well as some decent acting and, yes, killer car chases.

*A GOOD DOC: Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill is a documentary that deserves to be among the classic histor- ical snapshots of the City. A fascinating look at one man’s bond with wild birds. The city was popular as a backdrop for action movies in the seventies and TV series like Streets of San Francisco. Its popularity as a location for all sorts of productions continues today. But filming is more likely to take place in production-friendly towns like Vancouver (though gratuitous establishing shots of San Francisco will often be used).

BOOKS Great novels set in SF:

• Dharma Bums, by Jack Kerouac

• The Joy Luck Club, by Amy Tan

• Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius, by Dave Eggers

• Daughter of Fortune, by Isabel Allende

• Barbary Coast, by Herbert Asbury

Dharma Bums - Published right after Jack Kerouac’s watershed On the Road, this novel follows main character Ray Smith’s adventures in San Fran- cisco and beyond. Memorable North Beach scenes.

The Joy Luck Club – An intimate look at the experiences of Asian fami- lies in San Francisco. Beginning in the middle of the 20th Century, four young mothers find ways to support one another while raising families and encountering many challenges.

Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius - Taking place largely in Berkeley and San Francisco, this is a good view into a young person’s strug- gles to survive and thrive in the city. Daughter of Fortune - Engrossing book about a young Chilean woman who follows her lover to San Francisco during the Gold Rush. A view from the eyes of a woman during that crazy time.

Barbary Coast - It’s difficult to really grasp what a lawless place San Francisco was in its early years. This is SF’s answer to the Gangs of New York (also a film) written by the same author.

*MORE READING:

A huge collection of nonfiction exists covering the many eras of the City. See the Bibliography for more ideas -- or head to the main branch of the San Francisco public library!

SONGS

Music has been a huge part of the City from its beginnings. Some songs and albums in particular served as lightning rods to bring people’s attention to the city. Here are some good examples:

• I Left My Heart In San Francisco, Tony Bennett

• San Francisco, Theme song from the film San Francisco (1936)

• (Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay, Otis Redding

• San Francisco (Be Sure to Wear Flowers In Your Hair), Scott McKenzie

• Lights, Journey *IT’S A NICE DITTY, BUT...

In case you were wondering about Rice-a-Roni, that particular boxed product is not really considered a treat by most San Franciscans!

ALBUMS

Considering the city’s illustrious past in the world of music, it wouldn’t be right to leave out some of the albums that resonated with San Francisco. Listen to these albums on a turntable if possible – it’s a magic transport to another time.

• Surrealistic Pillow (1967) – Jefferson Airplane magically bottled San Francisco 1967. Some of these songs are instantly recog- nizable, the rest are simply good songs on their own merit. An important component of the soundtrack of the Summer of Love.

• Live/Dead (1969) – The Grateful Dead recorded many shows in San Francisco in their time – but this was the first live album they released. A document of the times recorded at the , including a 23-minute long rendition of the song Dark Star.

• Lights Out San Francisco “Voco Presents the Soul of the Bay Area” (1972) – Pioneering FM radio station KSAN is a big reason why SF’s music scene exploded in the 1960s. Saturday night DJ Voco went on to compile this compilation of groovy SF tunes, including 18-year old Neal Schon who played guitar for both Santana and Journey.

• Frampton Comes Alive (1976) – Still considered one of the most important live albums ever, this gem is a must-own. Recorded in San Francisco’s Winterland club (a few tracks were recorded elsewhere) it’s the best-selling album of 1976 — and a double LP! • Friday Night in San Francisco (1981) – A renowned live acoustic guitar concert by Al Di Meola, John McLaughlin and Paco de Lucía. Recorded at The Warfield on Market Street.

• Pork Soda (1993) – Primus was an important band in 1990s SF and this album will help you understand the direction of the city in recent decades. Haywire.

• S&M (1999) – Who would have thought San Fran’s hometown metal band would record an album with the San Francisco Symphony? It happened and it’s worth a listen. 2 Discs.

WEBSITES

There are some very good websites covering events and further background on the city:

• SF Gate – It’s not perfect but it’s where we get much of our news. It gives a pretty good daily overview of the things, places and people that effect the city.

• Craigslist – This site is a great SF original: disruptive, revolu- tionary, and resourceful.

• SF Station – Almost 20 years running, a great resource for events and more.

• ShapingSF.org – One of the best resources for learning about the city’s history.

• Found SF – An impressive compendium of San Francisco history: by decade and also historical tours. *WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?

If you love SF, where else like it can you go in the world? San Francisco’s official sister cities! Here they are:

• Assisi, Italy

• Bangalore, India

• Barcelona, Spain

• Caracas, Venezuela

• Cork, Ireland

• Haifa, Israel

• Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

• Kraków, Poland

• Manila, Philippines

• Osaka, Japan

• Paris, France

• Seoul, South Korea

• Shanghai, China

• Sydney, Australia

• Taipei, Taiwan

• Thessaloniki, Greece

• Zurich, Switzerland AFTERWORD

inding the real city involves discovering how the people and events Fthat came before us still shape the city today. The San Francisco waterfront from the 1800s to the 1980s was thick with industry. It was a time when fishermen, shipbuilders, longshoremen, and other industrial workers constituted a large portion of the workforce.

In recent years, demographic shifts have been transforming San Fran- cisco and an exodus of blue collar populations has taken place. Statistics from the San Francisco Department of Human Resources show that less than 25 percent of the city’s police officers live in the city limits, for example. Hundreds of them commute from faraway locales.

San Francisco’s cost of living has gone up so dramatically that those born in the city have trouble affording their own home here. No matter how you look at it, there’s a problem at hand.

The median price for a single family home is $1 million in San Fran- cisco, according to the San Francisco Business Times — a 32 percent jump from one year ago. Rents have skyrocketed also. Subtleties are at work when gentrification takes hold of a neighbor- hood. Sometimes it can happen very quickly, as it did in the Lower Fillmore district in the fifties when many blocks were razed in the name of “urban renewal.” The thriving elements of African-American neighborhoods were destroyed by the wrecking ball. San Francisco city planner Justin Herman once admitted “critics will rightly condemn urban renewal as a land-grab for the rich and a heartless push-out for the poor and nonwhites.”

So what actually happens to neighborhoods when they are “renewed?” It hasn’t improved the Lower Fillmore, by most accounts.

During my first decade in San Francisco, I lived in the Marina (the “Real Marina” as I used to joke, as I lived on a houseboat). Chestnut Street was historically part of a relatively diverse area economically but as it became more desirable, it was transformed before my eyes. Longtime family busi- nesses like Kimmel’s Stationery offered an important service to residents in the neighborhood but were unable to cover rising rents. These businesses found themselves replaced by chain stores. It was my first time bearing witness to the effects of the process of gentrification on a neighborhood.

“Like many cities that flourished in the post-industrial era, San Francisco has become increasingly unaffordable over the past quarter-century, but still has a host of writers, artists, activists, environmentalists, eccentrics and others who don’t work sixty-hour weeks for corporations — though we may be a relic population.” -Anonymous comment on SFGate.com As the artists, musicians and other creative residents are hit with a skyrocketing cost of living in the city, the character of San Francisco loses. In New York City, many fled the rising rents of Manhattan in the 80s and 90s and famously headed to Brooklyn, which became a new headquarters for the young, adventurous and hip. Oakland is San Francisco’s answer to Brooklyn, where creative refugees and young people who traditionally gravitated to San Francisco have sought a place where rents are more affordable — and where they can pursue their passions without compromising their values.

There has long been a fiercely independent community of free thinkers in San Francisco who have pushed the boundaries and their innovative spirit has regularly led the way in steering national trends and promoting policy ideas that eventually penetrate the mainstream.

The question is, can these traditions be maintained while a large demo- graphic shift is occuring in the city? Can people who earn nonprofit salaries and other low wages discover ways to keep up with the soaring rents and remain here if they so choose?

“It’s important for San Francisco to pay attention to balance and to make sure that the city remains open to a broad range of people, not just the tech crowd. There’s a delicate equilibrium to all this.” –Author Dave Eggers

The most prominent industry in today’s San Francisco is technology. According to the San Francisco Chronicle “there are more than 1,800 tech companies in San Francisco, more than ever before.” The Bay Area’s tech industry famously began in Silicon Valley but it has always had roots in San Francisco. Steve Jobs came to the city each year to introduce Apple’s new products, the dot com boom of the 90s was headquar- tered here, and again today a flood of technology companies has chosen the city for its lifestyle, location and access to young talented employees.

What will the effect of these changing demographics be on the city?

Each person, each generation, discovers the city for themselves, affecting it in new ways. No person or population has a claim on the real San Francisco. There have been many visions of it—and will continue to be—but a few fundamental attributes seem to always shine through. These aspects of the city are celebrated here in this guide, where a clear attempt is made to support the people, businesses and neighborhoods that maintain the real character of the city and fight off gentrification.

The trick for a city like San Francisco is allowing itself to be reinvented in relevant ways while still preserving its soul. The city is not going to become merely a “playground for the super rich” — there will always be residents that work to prevent that possibility. But it’s going to take a lot of vigilance, activism, legal actions, and many other collaborative tactics.

One place to begin is with your wallet. Why not support the people and places that help make San Francisco such a special place? It may be one of the answers for this city to be able to hold onto its diverse, unique character that is so well-loved by the world. APPENDIX

TIMELINE OF EVENTS (1769 - PRESENT)

1769 – An expedition led by Don Gaspar de Portola views San Francisco Bay from a hilltop to the west.

1776 – Mission Dolores and the Presidio established by the Spanish.

1820 – Commercial ships from Boston visit to barter with the Spanish for beaver pelts, cow hides, and other goods.

1835 – Captain William Richardson builds one of the first houses in the city.

1846 – Bear Flag Revolt. America wages war on Mexico.

1846 – Captain Montgomery claims San Francisco for the United States, planting an American flag in the city.

1846 – Mexico cedes California to the United States after signing treaty of Hidalgo.

1847 – The town of “Yerba Buena” is renamed “San Francisco.”

1848 – Gold discovered in the American River near Sacramento.

1849 – Population of San Francisco grows from 400 in 1848 to over 30,000 in 1850.

1849-1851 – A series of large fires rage through San Francisco’s wooden buildings

1850 – California is admitted to the Union.

1851 – First Committee of Vigilance founded by citizens to reduce rampant crime in the city.

1853 – California Academy of Sciences founded, one of San Francisco’s oldest institutions.

1856 – Second Committee of Vigilance organized after Bulletin newspaper publisher James King is killed by a city supervisor.

1856 – Morning Call newspaper goes into circulation.

1858 – Overland stagecoach begins service from San Francisco to Missouri and points eastward.

1862 – Telegraph line completed connecting New York and San Francisco.

1865 – M.H. de Young publishes the San Francisco Chronicle.

1869 – Transcontinental Railroad completed, linking San Francisco to the eastern United States.

1870 – Work on Golden Gate Park begins.

1873 – Andrew Hallidie starts the city’s cable car service.

1877 – Anti-Chinese riots. Large areas of Chinatown are set afire.

1878 – “Pacific Base Ball League” founded in the city.

1882 – Congress passes Chinese Exclusion Act.

1887 – William Randolph Hearst publishes the San Francisco Examiner.

1892 – Sierra Club is founded in San Francisco; John Muir becomes its president.

1894 – Midwinter Exposition kicks off in Golden Gate Park.

1896 – First automobile sighted in San Francisco.

1898 – The new Ferry Building is opened.

1900 – Bubonic plague is reported in Chinatown.

1901 – Waterfront labor strike.

1903 – President Teddy Roosevelt visits San Francisco.

1903 – “Pacific Coast League” organized for playing baseball.

1904 – A.P. Giannini founds Bank of America in the city.

1906 – Great Earthquake and Fire destroy a huge part of the city.

1907 – Strike called against United Railroads.

1908 – Bubonic plague outbreak reappears.

1909 – San Francisco Seals baseball team wins a league championship.

1910 – San Francisco votes to dam the Hetch Hetchy Valley to supply San Francisco with water. John Muir’s Sierra Club opposes the measure.

1913 – U.S. Congress approves San Francisco project to dam the Hetch Hetchy River in Yosemite National Park.

1915 – The Panama-Pacific International Exposition runs most of the year.

1933 – Construction of the Golden Gate Bridge begins.

1934 – City police kill two men on “Black Thursday” and a general strike is called.

1935 – San Francisco Museum of Art opens (name is later changed to Museum of Modern Art).

1936 – San Francisco Bay Bridge opens.

1939 – Golden Gate International Exposition established on Treasure Island.

1941 – Pearl Harbor bombed by Japanese. The city becomes headquarters for the Pacific theatre.

1942 – Japanese-Americans are sent to internment camps. 1945 – Japan surrenders, World War II ends.

1968 – Summer of Love in San Francisco.

1969 – Native American occupation of .

1978 – Mayor George Moscone and Supervisor Harvey Milk are assassinated.

1981 – AIDS epidemic hits the city.

1982 – 49ers win their first of several Super Bowls during the 80s.

1989 – Loma Prieta Earthquake strikes, damaging the Embarcadero freeway.

1992 – Embarcadero Freeway is demolished. Plans proposed for restoring the Ferry Building.

1993 – 101 California Shooting; nine people are killed downtown during a shooting spree.

1996 – Willie Brown becomes the city’s first African-American mayor.

1997 – Dot com boom in the city.

2001 – “Tech bubble” bursts, technology employees leave the city en masse.

2010 – The Giants win their first World Series for San Francisco.

2012 – The Giants win another World Series for San Francisco. -With thanks to the San Francisco Museum and Historical Society ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

hanks to Michael Mendelson for the editing, insight and humor. TAnd to Maddy Muir, Charles Buck, Aunt Lois, Amy & Tommy G, Bradley Angel, Patrick Forden, Charles Higgins, Tom Higgins, Marian Hubler, Aaron Barrett, Mark Merritt, Michael Tornatore, Nancy Johnson, Linda Hunter, Sara Randall, Juliana Jones, Fishin’ Pete Shrive. Stevland Morris, Brad Delp, Steve Harris, and Michael Schenker for the tunes.

And Eric Covington, Eldon Nichols, Kimo Bailey, Lynn Stone, Joanna Allen- wood, Blaire Briody, Norm Hammond, David Talbot, Gary Kamiya, Guy Kawasaki, Rowan Jacobsen, Brendan Kruse, Paul Schmitt, Ted Ver Valen, Maria Brown, Brian Johnson, Rudi Dundas, Gar Smith, Parkman Lew, Brem Lyngdoh and Erin Thomas. The Brower family, Higgins family, Mendelson family, Plotnick family, Briody family & especially Susie Q… Everlasting gratitude! Selected Bibliography

tairway Walks in San Francisco by Adah Bakalinsky (a local author who is nearly 90) provides a wonderful look at the many hidden stairways across Sthe city with excellent maps and artwork. Harold Gilliam is the city’s greatest ecolog- ical journalist: his 1957 book San Francisco Bay deserves to be required reading for anyone who loves San Francisco. Gilliam also wrote the text to accompany Robert Cameron’s Above San Francisco, a truly spectacular collection of photos taken by plane.

Ohlone Way: Indian Life in the San Francisco-Monterey Bay Area, by Malcolm Margolin and Michael Harney, is required reading for anyone who wants to under- stand the history of the area and its early peoples. Beautifully written. San Francis- co’s Wilderness Next Door, by John Hart and Robert Sena, is an out of print coffee table book that really deserves a look: it’s a classic view of the city in an earlier time. Bay Area Wild, by Galen Rowell and Michael Sewell, is another collection of photos that are really stunning: a good introduction to the rich ecology of the Bay Area.

Patricia Unterman’s San Francisco Food Lover’s Guide is a must-read for anyone who wants to make the most of the city’s immense selection of restaurants and foodie resources. Time Off! The Leisure Guide to San Francisco, by Dean LaTour- rette and Kristine Enea, is an excellent guide for finding ways to spend free time across the city. Reclaiming San Francisco: History, Politics, Culture is a nicely written compendium by James Brook, Chris Carlsson and Nancy Peters, published by the venerable City Lights Books. It provides important insight into the intellectual character of the city. The Barbary Coast: An Informal History of the San Francisco Underworld by Herbert Asbury is a fictional account but a realistic view into the city’s early years and a fun read. There are many more great books about the city... Thanks for reading!