C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2010 NO. 181 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

DESTINATION DESHAIES

See story on page 22 CHRIS DOYLE OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 41 Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] Distribution - Lisa Kessell Tel: (758) 484-0555, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] /BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Calendar of Events ...... 42 Calendar of Events Caribbean Marketplace...... 43 ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index The Caribbean Sky ...... 33 Sky The Caribbean ...... 34 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 35 Readers’ Forum ...... 40 Meridian Passage What’s on My Mind !” But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole ISSN 1605 - 1998 Compass near you! DEPARTMENTS gets our message to the sailors by — Linda Phillips Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd. www.doylesails.com covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Compass “ keeping the publication interesting and current, with lots of must-read articles. “Thank you, We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication,©2010 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Publishing Ltd. except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs Eco-News...... Caribbean 9 Regatta News...... 13 ...... All Ashore… 24 ...... 28 Compass Fiction 31 Fun Pages...... 30, ...... Book Review 32 ...... 32Dolly’s Deep Secrets Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected]

BLISS-DELPY HOLIAN nd the nd fi ...... 24 Luperón to Punta Macao ...18 The DR’s northeastern coast History Hike Bonaire’s Lizard Trail Left Penniless! Cruiser’s bank card blues...... 26 Click Google Map link below to Deshaies, in northern Guadeloupe, is a popular anchorage for passage staging and fun ashore Deshaies, in northern Guadeloupe, is a popular Doyle: Doyle: www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2010 • NUMBER 181 OCTOBER 2010 • NUMBER Launch The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Moon Carriacou’s latest sloop...... 15 Turtle Talk ...... No longer safe to eat? 10 Cover photo by Chris OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 culminated inafinalandsuccessfulmeeting,whichtookplaceonSeptember15th. Their cooperationandunderstandingthroughoutthesepastmonthsofdiscussionshas ment team,alongwithJeffBoyd,ManagingDirectorofMMCConsultingServices. tant totacklethefeesforthisgroupfirst. Board alongwithTheSt.MaartenHarbourGroupofCompaniesfeltitwassoimpor- more than50percentinarrivalssince2008.ItwasforthisreasonthattheSMMTA adversely affectedbythesuddenincreaseinfeesandhasexperiencedadropof group, theywereabletoverifythatthiscategoryofvesselwas,infact,themost junction withtheHarbourGroupofCompaniesmanagementandadministration SLAC anditsassetsweretopprioritieswouldbeaddressedwithintheyear. Harbour GroupofCompanies,thatyachtfeesandthefinancialmanagement Companies, statedinDecemberoflastyear,whenSLACwasmovedtoSt.Maarten yacht. MarkMingo,ChiefExecutive at largehadreportedmajordeclinesinbusinessactivitiesrelatingtothiscategoryof arrivals andstaysforyachtsintheeight-to18-metreclass.TheSMMTAmembership agement. TheSMMTA’sconcernwastherapidandalmostdevastatingdeclinein (SLAC) onJanuary1st,2008,priortoSt.MaartenHarbourGroupassumingitsman- the highfeesimplementedbySimpsonBayLagoonAuthorityCorporation metres inlength. week forvesselseightto13metresinlength,andUS$40per18 US$30 forboatsfrom12to15metresinlength.HarbourFeesareUS$20per weeks spentinSt.Maarten(i.e.payforsixandstayeight). for thesevesselswillbechangedasfollows: the eight-to18-metre(26-59-foot)category.EffectiveJanuary1st,2011,fees soon therewillbeachangetotheBridgeandMooringFeestructureforvesselsin &Updates Info SMMTA wouldalsoliketonotethatinthemonthsSLAChasbeenfoldof The SMMTAwouldliketotakethisopportunitythankMarkMingoandhismanage- Through researchandanalysisprovidedbyMMCConsultingServicesincon- Representatives oftheSMMTAhavebeenconcernedforsometimenowabout Bridge FeesarecurrentlyUS$10forboatsfromnineto12metresinlength,and • Therewillbetwofreeweeks’HarbourFeesgivenoutofeveryeightconsecutive • Therewillbea30-percentreductioninbridgefeerates;and The St.MaartenMarinesTradesAssociation(SMMTA)ispleasedtoannouncethat St. MaartenYachtFeestoBeReduced

Officer ofTheSt.MaartenHarbourGroup sector andwaysthatbothorganizationscanworktogethertorebuildit. Harbour GroupofCompaniesaboutthegrowthandhealthSt.Maarten’smarine and waterwaysofSt.Maarten. have beenmadetothechannel-markingsysteminLagoonandports Wrecks andabandonedyachtshavebeenremovednoticeableimprovements Hurricane Earl,safetyandcompensationissueswereaddressedimmediately. Lagoon aswellGreatBayhasmadeadramaticdifference.Mostrecently,post- of EddyJohnsonastheMaritimeDepartmentHeadforSimpsonBayand tender staffaremoreprofessional,courteousandaccessible;theappointment the HarbourGroupofCompanies,noticeablechangeshavebeenmade.Bridge —Continuedonnextpage opportunity tosailLasersandrenewtheirsailingrulesknowledge. basic Optimistsailingwastaught,andintheadvancedcampschildrengot beginners’ campstoattractmorenonmembersailors.Duringthe more than30kidsparticipating.Thisyearthecampsweresplitintoadvancedand Budget MarineandwaterbottlesfromLime. August 6thchildrenweregivencertificatesandprizes,whichincludedT-shirtsfrom edgeable andenjoyedalltheactivitiesimmensely.AtGraduationPartyon the campand,despiteneverhavingbeeninadinghybefore,becameveryknowl- away theboatsatendofeachday.FivegirlsfromBelairHomeattended Beach, havingafundayonthePirateShip,capsizingtheirboats—andputting ties includinglearningtheessentialknotsforboatrigging,sailingtoGrandAnse successful SummerCampfrom26thJulyto6thAugust.Thechildrenenjoyedactivi- For [email protected] The SMMTABoardsupportsacontinuationofthissuccessfuldialoguewith Meanwhile, theSintMaartenYachtClubhadsixweeksofSummerCampswith The GrenadaNationalSailingAcademyandtheYachtClubenjoyeda Summer SailingCamps’Success

visit www.smmta.com. OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page While in Bonaire in July and August, I heard rumors that on While in Bonaire in July and August, I heard rumors that On January 1st, 2011 the US dollar will become the legal ten- On January 1st, 2011 the US dollar will become the legal What does this mean to cruisers? The biggest change for What does this mean to cruisers? The municipalities will resemble ordinary Dutch municipalities The municipalities will resemble Antilles courtesy flags and adopt the flag of Netherlands Antilles courtesy flags and adopt the flag each island. The flags of Bonaire, Saba and Sint Eustatius be (”Statia“ will become Dutch municipality flags and should flown as the courtesy flag for the island. October 10th our visitation clocks would be reset and we new could stay past our initial 90 days. I also heard that the government would be more lenient and allow cruisers to stay government would be more lenient and allow cruisers said for more than 90 days. However, the Immigration agent in that we should not expect any change in days permitted visitors the BES islands. The time of 90 days is based on the time are permitted to stay in the Netherlands. This includes citizens of most countries, except of course, citizens of the per- Netherlands. There was also no indication that the current mitted time of 90 days per calendar year is subject to change. der on the islands of Bonaire, St. Eustatius and Saba, although until guilders will continue to be accepted for cash payments on February 1st. The guilder will continue to be legal tender Curaçao and Sint Maarten. Officials working for BES government offices will work for the Officials working for BES government and Sint Maarten will follow Dutch government. Curaçao country within the Kingdom Aruba’s lead as an autonomous own constitution. of the Netherlands, with its to retire our well-worn most of us is that we will have palities of the Netherlands with special status within the Dutch palities of the Netherlands with Maarten become independent Kingdom. Curaçao and Sint with the same status that states within the Dutch Kingdom Aruba attained in 1986. similar government structure and in most ways. They will have national and European elections. will be able to vote in Dutch

The storm’s center passed just north of the British , home to hundreds , home passed just north of the The storm’s center Netherlands Antilles No More 10th 2010 (10/10/10) the “Netherlands Antilles” will Devi Sharp reports: On October

ST. EUSTATIUS ST. SABA BONAIRE CURAÇAO into a Category 4 storm. Earl caused damage such as beached vessels, power out- such as beached vessels, 4 storm. Earl caused damage into a Category roofless homescoastlines, toppled trees and in low-lying areas, eroded ages, flooding US Virginand Antigua. The ports of the St. Maarten, Anguilla on islands including San Juan were Culebra, Fajardo and Puerto Rican ports of Vieques, Islands and the Coast Guard said. closed, the US yacht — a potential fiasco. However, large fleets of bareboats of yachts, including safeguarding people know what goes into Ed Hamilton reports: “Few charter broker the compa- In Tortola’s Paraquita Bay, when a storm threatens. all those bareboats can be accom- and stern, so more boats storm moorings bow nies have permanent boats (always the biggest problem) is minimized. modated and damage between a storm, Paraquita is filled with empty rows of white moor- Once they move out after ing balls!” Eustatius and Saba (the BES Islands) will become munici- no longer exist. Bonaire, Sint MAARTEN ST.

TANYA WHISTLER that the Chaguaramas that the Chaguaramas

generously donated by a YSATT generously donated

arise.

Continued from previous page Continued from Yacht Security Upgrades in Trinidad Yacht Security (YSATT), Association of Trinidad & Tobago the Yacht Services Individual businesses, in the a “neighbourhood watch” business group has formed The Chaguaramas YSATT collects details on incidents that happen in Chaguaramas Bay, whether in a that happen in Chaguaramas Bay, whether in YSATT collects details on incidents Earl Paraquita Plan Placates Hurricane 2010 came alive for the Caribbean when theOn August 30th, Hurricane Season The Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard are encouraging all cruisers to continue to file Guard are encouraging all cruisers to continue to file The Trinidad & Tobago Coast Safe haven: bareboats in Tortola’s Paraquita Bay the morning after Earl passed through Safe haven: bareboats in Tortola’s Paraquita Bay the morning marinas and boatyards are working together to ensure are working together marinas and boatyards a pleasant one for all visitors. experience is team up Bay. Each night, members on the water in Chaguaramas form of patrols to any the visitors and act as a deterrent Bay to ensure the safety of and patrol the been The boat for the patrols has possible thefts. — member, Dynamite Marine Ltd. member, Dynamite the marinas and their security handle the incidents that marina or otherwise. While will inform YSATT should a major incident occur. All inci- occur on their premises, they are sent on to the relevant authorities, i.e. Coast dents that are reported to YSATT or Police, and circulated to the marinas and boat- Guard, Maritime Services Division yards should the need brushed the northern Leeward Islands and strengthenednewly formed Hurricane Earl their float plans, whether arriving or departing Trinidad. Once a float plan is received or departing Trinidad. Once a float plan is received their float plans, whether arriving time of departure and they will launch a patrol the TTCG will note the estimated in Chaguaramas or the Coast Guard base in Tobago, from the Staubles Bay Base that has filed the float plan via VHF Channel 16. Please and will contact the yacht you but you cannot always see them. Once you have answer them — they can see cancel the float plan by contacting the Coast reached your destination, please that you have arrived safely. (The Coast Guard has Guard and letting them know looking for yachts that did not cancel their plans.) called YSATT on many occasions OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Visit the entiresiteintoFrench,GermanorSpanish. station, readthelatestnews,viewupcomingevents,andataclickofbutton,translate is nowlive.Thehomepageallowsuserstoviewthelatestweather,linklocalradio http://groups.yahoo.com/group/trinidadcruisingsailorsforum and havequestionshelpfuladviceinformationtoshare.”Signupat among allwhomightbehere,orinterestedincominghavebeenhere is awebsiterunbyandforcruiserswehopeithelpsdisseminategoodinformation are opentoanyonewhojoins—aYahoomembership(free)isallthat’srequired.This cruisers andatreasuresofthebilgesection.Allthesefeaturesdiscussionforum mation, apicturefeature,calendaroflocalevents,phonebook,linksinterestto where peoplecanposequestionstofellowcruisers.There’safilelibraryofusefulinfor- parties inChaguaramas.SomeoftheinterestingfeaturessiteincludeaQ&A information ofinterestbetweencruisingsailors,localbusinessesandotherinterested that wethinkwillbeofinterest.Ouraimistoprovideaforumfordiscussionandsharing getting asmuchinfopossible.TheYahooGroupformatallowsformorefeatures working emphasisofFacebookwasnotinkeepingwiththerealinterestcruisers year butwhichwillcloseinthecomingmonths.Johnsays,“Wefeltthatsocialnet- Chaguaramas, Trinidad.Thisisthe“son”ofFacebooksitethatstartedupearlierthis — Eastern Caribbean. —Continuedonpage23 age facilitiesinTrinidad—andawholelotmore. thing visitingcruisingsailorsneedtoknowabouttheboatservice,repairandstor- Tobago Boaters’Directory www.cruisingguides.com. age), bothbooksareavailableatbookshopsandchandleriesorfrom US$29.95 each(ifyoubuybothbooks,thataveragesoutto67centsperanchor- ages intheWindwardIslands,fromMartiniquethroughGrenada.Retailingat panion guidetoChrisDoyle’s photos of43popularyachtanchoragesfromAnguillathroughDominica.Itisacom- [email protected]. got greatunderwatershots,too! lay flat.Seeingthesebird’s-eye-viewphotosmakesthemarksonachartcomealive. aids orhazardstonavigation,clearchannels,etcetera.Thebooksarespiralbound shot withoverprintinghighlightinganchoringandmooringareas,reefsshoals,any tains arelevantchartlet,briefnavigationnotes,andreducedversionoftheaerial anchorage; thebottompageshowsafull-sizeaerialphoto,andtopcon- used alongwithanyguides.Inhorizontalformat,eachspreadisdedicatedtoan • NeedqualityphotosofbeautifulDominica,TheNatureIsle? • TheMontserratTouristBoard’srevampeddestinationwebsite • Cruisers John DeLong and Stephen Aspey are starting a new website for cruisers in • CruisersJohnDeLongandStephenAspeyarestartinganewwebsiteforcruisersin Cruisers’ Site-ings The secondeditionof There arethreerecentlypublishedbooksyou’llwanttohaveifyou’recruisingthe Essential CaribbeanCruisingReferenceBooks Continuing southward,wecometothe15theditionofindispensable • ThefreecruisingguidetoHaitiisnowavailableat • Thenewe-mailaddressofHemingwayInternationalYachtClubCubais The firsteditionof Continued frompreviouspage Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Port Elizabeth Caribbean Diesel Bequia [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1767 Ph: 268-460-3050 English Harbour Seagull YachtServices [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1851 Ph: 268-460-1850 English Harbour Marine PowerServices Antigua www.imagesdominica.com Now 23%smaller. Windward Anchorages Leeward Anchorages . Thisisafree176-pagesoft-coverbookcontainingevery- Cruising GuidetotheLeewardIslands and [email protected] Fx: 596-596-788-075 Ph: 596-596-787-196 Port ofCasePilote Inboard DieselService Martinique [email protected] Fx: 473-443-1668 Ph: 473-443-1667 St. David's Grenada Marine Grenada [email protected] Fx: 767-448-7701 Ph: 767-448-2705 Roseau, Dominica,W.I. 18 Victoria Street Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Visit www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com fordetails www.facebook.com/ImagesDominica givesthesametreatmentto47anchor- is a collection of large (10” by 8”) aerial isacollectionoflarge(10”by8”)aerial www.haiticruisingguide.com . www.visitmontserrat.com , but could be , butcouldbe [email protected] Fx: 758-450-0717 Ph: 758-484-6031 Rodney BayBoatyard Marintek StLucia St Lucia [email protected] Fx: 340-776-6859 Ph: 340-776-6665 Coral Bay Coral BayMarine St. John Fx: 340-778-8974 Ph: 340-773-0289 Christiansted St. CroixMarine St Croix Trinidad & . They’ve .

[email protected] Fx: 868-649-9091 Ph: 868-649-2487 Siparta Diesel TechnologyServices Trinidad Fx: 340-779-2457 Ph: 340-775-9912 Compass PointMarina All PointsMarine St Thomas [email protected] Fx: 599-544-3641 Ph: 599-544-2051 Cole Bay Electec St Maarten [email protected] Fx: 284-494-8491 Ph: 284-494-3494 Road Town, Tortola Marine MaintenanceServices [email protected] Fx: 284-494-5389 Ph: 284-494-2400 Road Town, Tortola Cay Electronics Tortola [email protected] Fx: 868-634-4933 Ph: 868-634-4272 Chaguaramas Crews InnMarina Dockyard Electrics [email protected] Fx: 284-494-1584 Ph: 284-494-2830 Road Town, Tortola Parts &Power OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

Saturday 09.00 - 13.00 for an inexpensive Chandlery for an inexpensive On Curaçao there was a need On Curaçao there Open Monday - Friday 08.30 - 17.30 Open Monday - Friday 08.30 - 17.30 That is how ABC MARINE was born. ABC MARINE was That is how without compromising quality and service. without compromising quality and ALL YOU NEED FOR BOATING & BOATING YOU NEED FOR ALL Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) 461 4925 Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao - Neth. Antilles - Neth. Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao [email protected] www.abcboatsnv.com [email protected] . is the corner- Nautical Almanac —Continued on next page Nautical Almanac Available

Nautical Almanac

Now available from Paradise Cay Publications, the For more information visit www.paracay.com. New Laundry Service for Yachts in Grenada PJ’s Laundry Service is a new company based in the Lagoon area of St. George’s, just They are currently providing an on-demand service for boats in Port Louis Marina 2011 New Website for A&C Brokers of Martinique A&C Yacht Brokers of Martinique, which welcomed past and prospective clients at For more information on A&C Yacht Brokers see ad in the Market Place section, Island Water World also helps The Grenada Heart Foundation. On the first Island Water World also helps The Grenada Heart Foundation. Grenada was intro- While working with the above charities, Island Water World, to work with the cruising Island Water World, Grenada continually looks for ways page 48. For more information on Island Water World see ad on The ABC Marine of Curaçao Challenge and fishing — at very afford- ABC Marine of Curaçao has all you need for boating For more information on ABC Marine see ad on this page. Pampering for Boat-Weary Bodies in St. Lucia! in Rodney Bay Marina is For the months of October and November, L’Essence continue with the And for December, during the ARC arrivals, their specials For more information on L’Essence see ad in the Market Place section, pages 43 IWW Grenada, Working with the Community IWW Grenada, been pur- extra items have probably of any cruising season During the course

Visit book-swap day upstairs at Island Water World, Grenada! BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS stone for all celestial navigation, listing the celestial bodies used for navigation, a sight reduction table, and other information valuable to the offshore navigator. Paradise Cay Publications is the only entity in the United States other than the US Government legally authorized to publish the full contents of the The content of this edition is identical to the United States Naval Observatory edition. minutes from Port Louis Marina. They understand the needs of all aspects of the yacht- ing community and are committed to providing a quality service. Whether it’s the fast turnaround for the charter boat market or the regular collection and delivery for the liveaboard cruiser at anchor in any of the southern bays, PJ’s is the laundry to call. and around the Lagoon area, as well as regular collections and deliveries to Prickly Bay and Mount Hartman Bay. In the future there will a boat delivery service added for yachts outside the Lagoon and other areas will also be covered. both the Cannes and Grand Pavois International boat shows in September, announce the opening of their new website at www.bateaux-antilles.fr. On this site you can find details of all A&C’s new and pre-owned boats, updated in real time. An English version of the website, dedicated to their worldwide customer base, is available at www.bateaux-antilles.fr or at www.boats-caribbean.com. pages 43 through 45. Water World store, there is a 45-gallon barrel just inside the entrance. Cruisers can Water World store, there is a 45-gallon barrel just inside it is full, Island Water World leave items no longer required in this barrel, and when at Grenada Marine, just drop delivers the contents to Grensave. At the IWW branch them to St. George’s. items at the store and IWW’s daily van service will bring holds a book-swap on Wednesday of every month Island Water World Grenada and noon. An EC$4 fee their balcony in St. George’s, between the hours of 10 by Foodland super- includes access to the book swap plus coffee or tea (donated their excellent bread to market) and biscuits. Also Le Phare Bleu Marina contributes monthly event go to be sold at the book swap. All the proceeds from this popular The Grenada Heart Foundation. a summer camp for more duced to the JJ Robinson Trust. Each year the Trust runs trust asked IWW to give a talk than 50 students over a four-day period in August. The explaining the industry on the yachting and marine industry in Grenada. Besides by one of the firm’s employ- and the jobs available in it, a demonstration was given sells. ees of some of the items that Island Water World Grenada and island community for the benefit of all. with those of the com- able prices. They say, “We invite you to compare our prices petition. Then you decide!” offering a 20-percent discount on Hot-Stone Massages. and get the fifth famous Karen’s Yacht & Crew Massage — do four massages, FREE for any crew. through 45. chased, be they kitchen or household utensils, non-perishable foods, clothing, bed- non-perishable foods, kitchen or household utensils, chased, be they are no lon- leave the boat, some of these When the time comes to ding, etcetera. done with them? Island Water World, Grenada has the ger required. What is to be organization Grensave collects the type of items answer. In Grenada the charity them to those in need. At the St. George’s Island mentioned above and distributes OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 — Bavaria Yachts. Caribbean dealerforFountainePajotcatamarans andtheregionaldealerfor bases inAntigua,St.Martin,Grenadaand theBVI.Horizonisauthorized and corestrengthatthesametime,SUPs canbeenjoyedbyallthefamily. explore desertedcovestuckedawayaround theislands,andworkonyourbalance maneuverable enoughtosatisfytheLaird Hamiltonsofthisworld.Anidealwayto a singlelongpaddle.Theyarestableenough forbeginnerstoinstantly“getit”,but British VirginIslandbase. paddleboards (orSUPs)forthedurationoftheirHorizonActivepackageat Wirie iseasytoupgradeastechnologycontinuesadvance. 1000mW WiFiadapter,IP67waterproofbox,andsuperiorcustomersupport.The bracket, easytoinstallandusesoftware,comprehensiveusermanual,powerful Mark KiltyfromIslandConsulting. most durableandbestlong-rangeWiFisolutionavailableforboatsRVs,”states inside theantenna. ensures nowaterentryanddrainholesinthebasehelppreventmoisturebuild-up ments insideadurableUV-stablewhitefiberglassradome.Thesealedendcap tional highperformancemarineantennathatfeaturessealedcollinearbrassele- Designed tostringentspecifications,thenewWirieantennaisan8dBiomni-direc- over 27years,agreedtoproduceamarinegradeantennaexclusivelyforTheWirie. L-com, aleadingantennamanufacturerinthewirelessconnectivitybusinessfor Consulting hascontinuouslymadeimprovementstoTheWirie. user-friendly, longrangeWiFisolutionforboats.Sincethebeginning,Island have aseatatDeKornah! ing, isquicklybecomingatownattraction.Sonexttimeyou’reintown,stopbyand fectly mixeddrinksandthepricesarejustright.Thecolourfulbar,withbalconyseat- Islet, DeKornahservesupagreatlunchanddinnermenusixdaysweekwithper- a greatplacetochillout!Intheheartofallaction,especiallyonFridaysinGros will bestrongerthantherecentpast. fees in2008fortheyachtingtourist,providesarayofhopethatcomingseason downturn andthedeclineinmarketshareduetoincreaseDutch-sideentry experiencing growthinthemarinesectorbecauseofit. the Caribbean.Inlate2009,St.Kittsacquireda150-tontravel-liftandhasbeen handle vesselsof120-footlengthwithamaximum35-footbeam. existing 90-tonand75-tontravel-liftswithanew150-tontravel-lift.Theliftcan yachts isreachingnewheights.TheMegayardfacilitywillaugmentBobby’s operation, thehaul-outcapacityonSt.Maartenforcatamaransandlargemotor the ColeBaybranchofBobby’sMarina—Megayardinearlystages to haulvesselsup85feetinlengthandmaximumbeamof45feet.Coupledwith Shipyard’s anticipatedarrivalofanew75-tonKMISea-Lift,theShipyardwillbeable level capacitythattheycanprovidetoyachtsthiscomingseason.WithSt.Maarten Bequia, CanouanandUnionIsland. Jaden Sun One hundredandfivefeetlongwithamaximumcapacityof218passengers, Antonio InternationalMarlinTournamentOctober9thto16th. bers oftheAnglingAssociation.Themarinawillalsoplayhostto47thPort and theSeafoodRestaurantwillbeopentogeneralpublicaswellmem- annual InternationalMarlinTournamentatPortAntonio.BoththenewEnglishPub was recentlyleasedtotheSirHenryMorganAnglingAssociation,whichruns Antonio Marina,isopenforbusinessfollowingamassiverefurbishment.Thefacility and collection. For moreinformationvisitwww.horizonyachtcharters.com. Horizon YachtChartershasanextensive fleet ofcatamaransandmonohullswith The SUPsarehigh-volumeBiclongboards thatyoustandupon,maneuveringwith Horizon YachtChartershasannouncedthatcharterguestscannowrentstandup Horizon ChartersOffersSUPsinBVI For moreinformationvisitwww.thewirie.com. The Wiriecontinuestooffermanyuniquefeatures:flexiblestainlesssteelmounting “WebelieveourpartnershipwithL-comhasallowedustoturnTheWirieintothe The mostrecentdevelopmentinvolvesahigh-endmarinegradeWiFiantenna. The WiriewasinventedintheCaribbeanApril2009toprovideacost-effective, Better WiFiforBoats For moreinformationseeadinMarketPlacesection,pages43through45. Named foritslocationinGrosIslettown,St.Lucia,‘DeKornah’Bar&Restaurantis Chill atSt.Lucia’s‘DeKornah’Bar&Restaurant For [email protected]. St. Maarten’scontinuedinvestmentinthemarinesector,despiteeconomic Until lastyear,vesselsofthissizehadtosailPuertoRicoorTrinidadhauloutin The St.MaartenMarineTradesarepoisedforasignificantincreaseintheservice- St. Maarten’sHaul-OutCapacitytoIncrease For moreinformationandthelatestschedulevisithttp://jadeninc.com/ferry/about. St. Vincent&theGrenadinesnowhasanewhigh-speedinter-islandferryservice. New FastFerryfortheGrenadines For moreinformationvisitwww.diolemarina.com. After numerousyearsofinactivity,“DiOleMarina”or,morecorrectly,thePort Jamaica’s PortAntonioMarinaReopens For moreinformationseeadinMarketPlacesection,pages43through45. They areofferingextremelycompetitiveintroductoryrateswithfreedelivery Continued frompreviouspage offerspassengerservicebetweenmainlandSt.Vincentandtheislandsof OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Î BRISBANE NOV - DEC Î NOVEMBER DECEMBER For more information visit www.fundacionlatortuga.org. PAPEETE PAPEETE 2008, based on the obvious dete- rioration of water quality and pos- sible mass mortality of marine life in the canals. The participation of the students will allow the project to move forward in the face of funding challenges. The El Morro complex, designed by urban plan- ner and yachtsman Daniel Camejo Octavio, is the heart of tourism and yachting activities in Puerto La Cruz. FEBRUARY - MARCH FEBRUARY Î VANCOUVER, VANCOUVER, Î E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] • • TOULON, GOLFITO E-mail: [email protected] • LA PAZ LA PAZ Î Î Î NOVEMBER - JANUARY PORT EVERGLADES, PORT PALMA DE MALLORCA, PALMA Î COMPETITIVE RATES

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PHotos by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by PHotos For more information on Project AWARE visit www.projectaware.org. All divers received certificates from Dive Bequia, and Cathy Sachs and the team All divers received certificates from Dive Bequia, and Project AWARE Foundation works in partnership with divers and watersports Project AWARE Foundation works in partnership with A report was submitted from the clean-up to Project AWARE. Plastic bags, bottles, A report was submitted from the clean-up to Project AWARE. Polly Philipson, Project AWARE organizer, said, “It was great fun for divers, stu- Polly Philipson, Project AWARE organizer, said, “It was Project AWARE Foundation is a registered nonprofit organization. In partnership is a registered nonprofit organization. In partnership Project AWARE Foundation Dive Bequia’s First Official Project AWARE Clean-Up Dive Bequia’s First Official together to clean up one of Bequia’s most popular Divers and staff recently worked Ulric Trotz, science adviser to the Caribbean Community Climate Change Centre, to the Caribbean Community Climate Change Centre, Ulric Trotz, science adviser The agreement makes provisions for developed countries to provide US$30 billion for developed countries to provide US$30 billion The agreement makes provisions Climate change poses the threat of rising sea levels, the loss of coastal livelihoods of rising sea levels, the loss of coastal livelihoods Climate change poses the threat The six islands join some 131 other countries in endorsing the accord, a non- in endorsing the join some 131 other countries The six islands Six Caribbean Countries Endorse Climate Change Accord Countries Endorse Climate Six Caribbean the controver- islands have now endorsed reports: Six Caribbean Panos Caribbean Caribbean Eco-News Caribbean would like to thank them for their help. enthusiasts to combat challenges facing underwater environments. Project AWARE enthusiasts to combat challenges facing underwater including underwater and volunteers are committed to conservation initiatives monitoring and data cleanups and marine debris prevention; coral reef conservation, policies and marine protec- collection; shark conservation; improved management programs for kids. tion efforts; environmental training for divers and education cans and were the most common debris although a chest freezer and cans and fishing line were the most common debris tyres were found, too. dents and staff to work together to preserve a heavily used marine area which is dents and staff to work together to preserve a heavily of juvenile fish and critters, home to a healthy reef. Devil’s Table has a huge variety water users.” and we hope to protect this area by being responsible with scuba divers, Project AWARE offices located in the United States, United with scuba divers, Project AWARE offices located efforts to conserve aquatic Kingdom, , and combine of the world. resources in more than 180 countries and territories diving and snorkeling sites, the Devil’s Table reef, in conjunction with the PADI- diving and snorkeling sites, Project AWARE. affiliated environmental charity said that there were some hopeful signs coming out of the accord and noted that it hopeful signs coming out of the accord and noted that said that there were some would build going into the climate change negotiations was on these that the region set for Mexico in November. for the period 2010 to 2012 for adaptation and mitigation efforts in the developing for adaptation and mitigation efforts in the developing for the period 2010 to 2012 bil- countries committed to mobilizing jointly US$100 world. Beyond that, developed the climate change needs of developing countries. lion annually by 2020 to address and the loss of certain marine species, as well as an increase in extreme weather species, as well as an increase in extreme weather and the loss of certain marine and droughts. events such as hurricanes legally binding agreement that critics say is woefully inadequate if the planet is to that critics say is woefully inadequate if the planet is legally binding agreement climate change. win the battle against global sial Accord, a key outcome of the 15th United Nations climate change of the 15th United Nations Accord, a key outcome sial Copenhagen & Barbuda, They include Antigua in last December. conference held & Tobago, and Jamaica. Bahamas, Guyana, Trinidad Barbados, The OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 water organisms,becomesmethyl-mercury,ahighly ent pesticides.Inorganicmercury,incontactwith (Persistent OrganicPollutants)andacocktailofdiffer- the marineenvironment:mercury,cadmium,POPs their bodieselevatedlevelsofcontaminantspresentin ing upinouroceans. tics, releasemercuryintotheair,landandwater,end- popular backyardburningofgarbagecontainingplas- PVC pipes).Incineratorsburningwaste,includingour for producingchlorine(usedinplastics,pesticidesand Coal-burning andchlor-alkaliindustriesusemercury tons ofmercuryarereleasedintotheenvironment. due tochemicalindustrialization.Yearly,up6,000 metals, mercuryinparticular,forthepast40years, health damageandevendeath. eggs wecanputourselvesatriskofseriouspermanent often heavilycontaminated.Byeatingturtlemeator but recentresearchhasshownthatturtlemeatis ditional foodsupplyformanypeoplesintheCaribbean, preserve ourownhealth.Seaturtleshavebeenatra- ute tothehealthofmarineeco-systems,butalso turtles andtheireggsisimportantnotonlytocontrib- in theocean-bottomecosystems. disintegration oftheshellsincreasesnutrientrate ceans anddiscardthebitsofshellintheirfeces; thus stabilizingbeaches.Loggerheadsfeedoncrusta- Sea grassesprotectthecoastlinefromwaveerosion of seagrassesandthedisappearancecoastalfish. the CaribbeanGreenturtlescontributedtodie-off of speciessmallfishandcrustaceans.Thedecline short andhealthy,thusprovidingsheltertohundreds Green turtlesfeedonseagrasses,keepingthebeds clearing spacefortheformationofnewcoralcolonies. tant amountsoffishspeciesconsumedbyhumans. clear: thedemiseofseaturtlescauseslossimpor- tion withinthenexttenyears,andconsequencesare and poachingoftheireggscoulddriveturtlestoextinc- those ofyellowfintuna?Relentlesshuntingturtles know thatjellyfishdevourfisheggsandlarvae,mostly therefore helpcontroljellyfishpopulations.Didyou which isthemaindietforleatherbacks;seaturtles system andourlives.Seaturtles’dietincludesjellyfish, e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Turtles, intheirlongmigratorylives,accumulate Our oceanshavebeenmassivelypollutedwithheavy Stopping theharvestingandconsumptionofsea Ocean LifeandPollution Hawksbills protectreefsbyfeedingonsponges, Sea turtlesplayanimportantroleinthemarineeco- Why SeaTurtlesareImportant

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U C D I stainless steel A A I N needs REPRESENTATIVE N era), dolphins,whalesandturtlesendupcarryingvery (tuna, swordfish,marlin,sharks,kingmackerel,etcet- food-chain, migratoryspeciessuchasthelargestfish the organicsystem,poisoningit.Highinmarine these heavymetalsthroughdigestion,remainin accumulating mercuryintheirbodies;unabletoexpel taminated organisms;largerfishfeedonsmallfish, toxic formofmercury.Smallfishfeedontinycon- Sea TurtlesandTheirEggs: Left: YouthgroupinCarriacouwitharescuedgreenturtle,alsoreadyforrelease many peoplesintheCaribbean,butrecentresearchhasshownthatturtlemeatisnowoftencontaminated Above: Childrenwithahealthyhawksbillturtletobereleased.Seaturtleshavebeentraditionalfoodsupplyfor E NO LONGERSAFEFOOD V S

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New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft by MarinaFastigi —Continuedonnextpage tion andoverfishing. “Medium” to“VeryHigh”impactintermsofpollu- shows thattheCaribbeanSearangesfrom Ecosystems ( blood, organsandeggs. high concentrationsofmethyl-mercuryintheirflesh, The GlobalMapofHumanImpactonMarine www.carriacouboatyard.com Science VHF: [email protected] Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 magazine,15February2008) CARRIACOU OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 Based on the mortality statistics related to turtle mortality statistics related Based on the Sea Turtles Tumors Affecting they ingest and Turtles too suffer from the pollutants show that sea turtles International fisheries records Bacteria Present in Sea Turtles sea turtles and eggs carry Ongoing studies show that Data from 2003 - 2004 showed that 80 percent of the Cooking may kill bacteria and fungi (although it is Proposal for the Immediate Future Common sense and deep concern for public health, Marina Fastigi, Ph.D. is Director of Kido Foundation, a of eating turtle meat. of eating turtle of child- public — in particular women poisoning, the children — nursing mothers and small bearing age, any sea turtle from consuming should be discouraged there is turtles may appear healthy, products. Though or danger- they carry internal tumors a high risk that methyl-mer- and are contaminated with ous bacteria POPs and pesticides. cury, cadmium, (tumors or can- increasingly develop fibropapillomas humans as well. On cerous growths), which affect a mature Green turtle March 21st, 2007 in Carriacou, bulging over her right with a four-inch fibropapilloma Kido Foundation at the eye was purchased alive by her contaminated meat , thus preventing public. This turtle from being sold to the unsuspecting on her neck, flippers and had several smaller tumors fishermen revealed that it plastron. An inquiry among with fibropapillomas to be was not the first sea turtle sold to the public in Carriacou. fibropapillomas. First seen worldwide are afflicted with this type of tumor has on Green turtles in the 1980s, It grows on soft tis- now spread to other turtle species. the carapace and plas- sues, eyes and mouth, through liver and intestines. tron (belly), on lungs, kidneys, bacteria: mycobacteria (which may cause TB), salmo- nella, vibrio (may cause cholera), E-coli, chlamydia (causing a pneumonia-like disease), leptospira, arse- nic and potentially lethal toxins from ingesting algal blooms (‘red tides’). samples of Green turtles in Baja California exhibited high antibody levels of leptospirosis. People infected with leptospirosis often show no symptoms, but left untreated, it can cause kidney damage, meningitis, liver failure, respiratory distress or death. very difficult to eliminate bacteria from your hands and tools after handling raw meat), but cooking does not eliminate the harmful toxins, which once ingest- ed remain in our bodies. It is important to underline that cooking turtle meat or eggs cannot get rid of heavy metals. as well as basic environmental conservation, suggest that authorities in charge need to establish a morato- rium for hunting sea turtles in each Caribbean state, banning the trade and consumption of turtle products. It is also strongly suggested that authorities and the media duly inform the public of the health hazards associated with the consumption of sea turtles and eggs, as well as of other contaminated ocean crea- tures, which may expose us and future generations to serious health hazards. not-for-profit organization in Carriacou, Grenada. “Sea Turtle as Food is a Health Hazard for Consumers” is a Kido public awareness campaign, supported by the World Society for the Protection of Animals (www.wspa- international.org). For more information call (473) 443- 7936 or e-mail [email protected]. Poisoning and Deaths Reported globally, cases of poisoning and deaths Above: This Green turtle with tumors was on sale at Above: This Green turtle with the local fish market Below: A hawksbill with fibropapillomas. First seen on Green turtles in the 1980s, this type of tumor has now spread to other turtle species (especially among children) from eating sea turtle (especially among children) from eating sea turtle meat, organs and eggs and drinking turtle blood, reveal the seriousness of the problem. In June this year, in Thailand, three persons died of chelonitoxism from ingesting hawksbill turtle meat: a village woman, an 11-month-old boy breast-fed by his mom who had eaten the same turtle meat, and a 60-year-old woman. Dozens of those who shared that turtle meat also suf- fered from symptoms including respiratory difficulty, stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, fever and double vision, but survived. In the Solomon Islands six chil- dren died out of the 28 people affected within five days true: the high concentrations of cholesterol and pollut- concentrations of cholesterol true: the high and eggs may impair sexual performance ants in turtle of namely, it is the very consumption lower fertility; physi- likely caused the embarrassing turtle eggs that the first place! cal failure in Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside magazine, the level of cadmium magazine, the level of cadmium Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar New Scientist FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Continued from previous page Continued from Aphrodisiac or Impaired Sexual Function? Sea turtle products have been prescribed over the Diseases and symptoms induced by mercury poison- Health Hazards Medical researchers warn of the insidious effects The World Health Organization and EU have set Tuna is today a highly contaminated fish. In the USA Tuna is today a highly contaminated chromium, lead,High levels of cadmium, aluminum, Connecting the Dots of a Larger Picture Connecting the Project, the the Barbados Sea Turtle Since 2002, Fish-eating migratory species (including birds) have species (including Fish-eating migratory centuries as remedies for anemia, asthma and respira- tory problems and, in the Caribbean, sea turtle eggs are traditionally claimed to be an aphrodisiac, con- sumed mainly by males hoping to boost their sexual performance. According to doctors, the opposite is ing include chronic fatigue, fibromyalgia, depression, ing include chronic fatigue, fibromyalgia, depression, anxiety, obesity, dementia, Parkinson’s disease, can- cer, heart failure and heart disease, memory problems, Alzheimer’s, amyotropic lateral sclerosis, multiple sclerosis, encephalopathy (non-specific brain malfunc- tion), inability to concentrate, tremors, loss of balance, impaired hearing, tunnel vision, slurred speech, head- aches, muscle pain and twitches, insomnia, digestive problems and food allergies. that mercury toxicity may cause to the brain develop- ment of unborn babies and younger children. Effects include neuro-developmental diseases, mental retar- dation, attention deficit disorder and autism. Other serious risks for children and adults are neurotoxicity, kidney disease and liver cancer. allowable concentrations of the banned pesticide DDT allowable concentrations of the banned pesticide DDT and its breakdown products in food at no higher than 50 ppb (parts per billion). Sea turtles in the Atlantic have showed concentrations of breakdown products of DDT as high as 1,200 ppb. and Europe, labels on large fish packages in super- and Europe, labels on large of possible health risks. markets warn consumers the September 16th, 2006 According to an article in issue of were found in tissuesilver, mercury and titanium whales over a five-yearsamples taken from nearly 1,000 period, from polar to equatorial waters. Mercury as high as 16 parts per million was found in these whales. Mercury-high fish (shark, swordfish), which health experts warn children and pregnant women to avoid, typically have levels of about one part per million. University of the West Indies and the Wider Caribbean University of the West Indies (WIDECAST), includ- Sea Turtle Conservation Network being applying ID tags ing the Kido Foundation, have to monitor their migra- to nesting and foraging turtles nesting in the Eastern tions. Some hawksbills turtles that forage there) Caribbean (as well as Green Gulf of Mexico, and our travel to the heavily polluted travel as far north as southern-born leatherbacks across the Atlantic to Nova Scotia, and Britain’s coastal waters. times higher and mer- in sea turtles measures three in tuna! cury ten times higher than been tested and found to be highly contaminated even found to be highly contaminated been tested and areas of the planet, demonstrating in the most remote from pollu- is no longer a factor of safety that location through the are everywhere, spread tion. Pollutants winds and of sea and air creatures, food-chain process ocean currents. — OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

Spirit and Attitude Breeze and , a , a Beneteau with a dou- and , with skipper, Ulrich . With an aver- Geronimo .com Cider , a J/24, followed , but then were Cider Kaiso Cider’s Breeze Away Attitude, Kaiso Geronimo . Following were Attitude Attitude , a two-tonner class, picked Sprit of the Wind crewmember Beth Lygoe says, , a Frers 39. The fleet hoisted their Geronimo Geronimo Attitude retired, followed by skipper says, “No wind presented monu- in the closing stages. , a Morgan 50, and in the lead followed by Cider with Rosie The day after, a party was held at the St. Lucia Yacht Halfway down the east coast, The wind gods brought the three leading boats The fleet beat towards the northern tip of St Lucia with Netherlands Antilles’ sailor Just van Aanholt clinched clinched sailor Just van Aanholt Netherlands Antilles’ two CaribbeanJust van Aanholt’s success brought St. Lucia Race Light Airs for Non–Stop Round gap, the Non- Sean Fuller reports: After a seven-year Line honours were taken by “A 14-hour sail really didn’t feel that long as the island’s coastline is inspiring to sail against, ever- changing wind conditions to kept us on our toes, two turtles popped up to welcome us to their waters, and numerous flying fish helped us along the way.” Club with a buffet and free Cavalier Rum sampling. Fastest boat around the island received ‘an average skipper’s weight’ in rum, being 80 bottles; first prize on… —Continued on next page Sovereign 40, and Away 50. The wind stayed light, averaging eight knots. of the Wind age boat speed of only three knots, they would not have arrived back in Rodney Bay until the early hours. Geronimo’s mental problems for the captains of the three remain- ing boats in the race that battled it out neck and neck to the bitter end.” home before the cut-off time of 2100, with a serious match race developing between up speed as she approached Pigeon Island. Onboard was German skipper Bruno Bruchhof, his partner and a scratch crew of seven regular J/24 sailors. Cider spinnakers as they came onto a reach but most strug- gled to fill them. ble second. Geronimo winning on corrected time leaving the boys’ Byte CII class. Barrows had hit the front on CII class. Barrows had hit the the boys’ Byte made certain day of the regatta and the penultimate medal race. a third-place finish in the of success with margin of points gave him a 16-point His score of 44 Florian Haufe. victory over ’s day, shad- the race on the last bronze after winning Kaarle Tapper by four points. ing out Finland’s as he very focused to the end, Barrows stayed really “You’ve just got to stay maturely describes: up in the results and focused and not get too caught really good boat speed on not get too nervous. I had that helped a lot and I the upwind and tactics, so was super conservative.” and he was proud of hisnations to the medals podium just very happy. I think Iexperience in . “I’m all my friends. Theam going to celebrate with a very good generation!”Caribbean sailors are having on August 21st.Stop Round St Lucia Race returned bode well for this 70-mileWindless conditions did not The start gun went offrace with a time limit of 15 hours. across the line in 1.5 knotsat 0700 with six boats inching Yacht Club at Reduitof wind just off the St. Lucia towards PigeonBeach, Rodney Bay. They headed the island. First over wereIsland to proceed west about two St. Lucia-based boats: by Meixner, says, “From Vieux Fort to the Pitons we had a Meixner, says, “From Vieux Fort to the Pitons we had a wonderful spinnaker run, doing hull speed and up to ten knots over the ground. We were leading up to the Pitons, perhaps 45 minutes ahead of about one hour ahead of stuck for two full hours! Only the current drift carried us through the Bay of Soufriere and just at the moment we decided to start the engine, the breeze kicked in and off we went.” . Tristan, Fire Fox racing success, he said racing success, , Margeta’s A Carriacou junior program began in the early sailing program began A Carriacou junior Carriacou, junior sailing On islands like Bequia and Redheaded Kaya, Marie’s son, took third place in Carriacou junior sailors straddle two worlds. One is Two Caribbean Junior Sailors Shine in Singapore Fresh from competing in the I-420 World Kobe James, Kaya Wilson, Tristan Eischner, Teena Marie, Arkim Compton, Miles Martineau and Noah Snagg solemnly, “My son will take the helm one day.” The son will take the helm one solemnly, “My juniors alone! with an EC$1,950 purse for pressure is on boats, Ted and a fleet of Opti-like 1990s. With facilities sailing sessions Tuson and volunteers held Saturday up to 17 youngsters. and periodic Fun Days attracting chaotic. Tuson moved It was informal, effective and club struggled. to England in 2008 and the few. For lives by the brilliance of a dedicated a reluctant heroine. Carriacou, it is now Teena Marie, about sailing, the way it Her background was not all Simmons in Bequia. Marie was for Ted Tuson or Mackie to see her pre-teen uses her smarts and motivation teamwork, boat respon- son continue. She emphasizes the water. Additionally, sibility and safety on and off she considers a prereq- she teaches swimming, which Fish, a profit-sharing uisite to sailing, and runs Small markets regionally. Junior craftwork company which helps on the beach. sailor Tristan’s mother, Patsy, and Snagg’s, and cruis- Businesses such as In Stitches “Bananas” and Jim ers including Roland O’Brien, bridged gaps and Hutchinson, have for a decade supported the club. the regatta’s junior division, sailing wooden boat building is a heady matter for the nine- building is a heady matter wooden boat 1st junior registered for the August to 14-year-olds Festival. The 2010 Carriacou Regatta races during the Arkim’s illustrated by junior sailor reality of this was about C”. In response to a compliment father, “Uncle sloop, his Carriacou whose German father sailed into the Windwards 24 years ago and whose mother is from L’Esterre, Carriacou, tied for second with Lucas, the son of a L’Esterre merchant. Regatta winner, Noah, says, “I live in Grenada with my mother. My father lives in Carriacou. My Opti is here in Hillsborough.” modern sailing. The Grenada Sailing Club and region- al youth regattas use ISAF racing rules. The other is their native open , where colloquial com- munication and rules take the day. “I’d like to see the kids race regionally,” Marie observes. “To do this, I believe they need to learn international rules of right of way and racing.” Her plan for the year ahead is to standardize and upgrade the fleet, and to increase the number of active members to 15, all the while encouraging more girls to participate. Championships in in July, Ian Barrows of the US Virgin Islands won a Gold Medal at the first Youth Olympic Games held in Singapore in August, sailing in Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours • Refrigeration Work • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café & Bar • Restaurant • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop Book Exchange • • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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Carriacou Juniors Have Their Day Ellen Birrell reports: A heritage steeped in sailing and This ambitious summer of sailing started with two This ambitious summer of sailing Next was the Volvo Youth Sailing ISAF World Finally, the USVI team traveled to the I-420 World The US Virgin Islands’ I-420 Team was coached by For more information, USVI Junior Sailors Excel at I-420 Worlds USVI Junior Sailors represented from the US Virgin Islands Six junior sailors REGATTA NEWS REGATTA [email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

teams — Alex Coyle with Alec Tayler, and Nikki Barnes teams — Alex Coyle with Alec with Ian Coyle — competing at Week in Germany, from June 24th to 27th. Light winds created challeng- ing conditions, with only five races completed out of a planned 11 for the regatta. Coyle/Tayler finished 17th and Barnes/Coyle 82nd in the 204-boat fleet. Championship in Istanbul, Turkey, sailed July 8th to 17th by sailors aged 18 and under. Only one male team and one female team per country may com- pete in each class. Coyle/Tayler represented the Boys Division for the USVI, while Barnes and Agustina Barbuto raced in the Girls Division. As in Kiel, extremely light, shifty winds proved difficult for all sailors. Only three races were completed during the first two days of racing. The boys had a difficult start under these conditions and, while the girls performed better, they were carrying a DSQ from the first race and they hoped to get in enough races so they could drop this worst score. In the end, the Coyle/Tayler finished 25th out of 36 and Barnes/Barbuto 14th out of 28. Championships in Haifa, Israel, held July 25th to July 31th. Coyle/Tayler sailed in the Open Class, as did Ian Barrows with Ian Coyle, while Barnes/Barbuto compet- ed in the Women’s Class. The Virgin Islands sailors got off to a great start with all three teams making it into the top half of their respective fleets, qualifying them for the Gold Fleet. Coyle/Tayler qualified by placing 26th out of 83 boats, Barrows/Coyle had a 17th place finish, and Barnes/Barbuto an 11th place finish. Great conditions meant the race committee was able to run all 11 planned races in the Finals. Ultimately, Coyle and Tayler finished 19th out of 83, Barrows and Coyle 12th out of 83 and Barnes and Barbuto 13th out of 74: all spectacular finishes for a Worlds competition, with the ages of the Virgin Islands I-420 team members ranging from 14 to 17 years. Agustin ‘Argy’ Resano and chaperoned by Heidi and Tim Coyle. visit www.facebook.com/usvi420sailing. the territory and St. Thomas Yacht Club in the St. Thomas Yacht Club in the territory and this sum- (I-420) two-person dinghy International 420 as three them traveling to as many mer, some of in Europe. major sailing events Argy Resano, Agustina Barbuto, Nikki Barnes, Alec Argy Resano, Agustina Barbuto, Alex Coyle and Ian Tayler, Heidi Coyle, Ian Barrows, in Israel Coyle at the I-420 World Championships OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 and BethLygoe Edwin Chavez,JerryBethel,JimEnright Below: Edgarwithtrophywinnersonhandicap, of CavalierRums Nick, PaoloandScott.InwhiteT-shirtisLeah Fastest BoatcrewNanette,Franck,Bruno,Daniel, Above: SLYCSailingCaptainEdgarRoecongratulates Golden Rock,hasbeenthedestinationof in November tion andaveryfestiveweekend. pants andspectatorsalikeanintensesailingcompeti- capital cityofPointeàPitre.Theregattaofferspartici- Marin andBaieduGosier,Guadeloupe,justoffthe October 30thtoNovember1statPetitCuldeSac — theVolvoTriskellCup.Itwilltakeplacefrom popular eventsinonGuadeloupe’ssailingcalendar php/racing-a-cruising/racing/racing-calendar/nor-a-si. and coursesareavailableatwww.rbviyc.com/index. 8th from6:00to8:00 Harbour, Tortola.RegistrationtakesplaceonOctober on SaturdayOctober9th,startinginRoadTown sented byTheRoyalBVIYachtClub,willtakeplace Boardwalk Bar,RainForestSkyRidesandHeineken. Renwick &Co(CavalierRum),Delirious,The skippered byBrunoBruchhof. skippered byUlrichMeixner,fastestyacht: pered byJerryBethel,secondplace: days storageashore.OverallWinner: …handicap wasafreehaul-out,scruboffandthree — Since 2005,St.Eustatius,historicallyknownasThe 6th GoldenRockIsland-to-IslandRegatta For moreinformationvisitwww.triskellcup.com. Start thenewracingseasonwithoneofmost Volvo TriskellCup,Guadeloupe The NoticeofRace,SailingInstructions,entryform This year’sWilliamThorntonVirginsCupRace,pre- The ‘WillyT’VirginsCupRace,BVI For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciayachtclub.com. Thanks gotosponsorsIGYRodneyBayMarina, Continued frompreviouspage PM attheRoyalBVIYachtClub. Attitude Cider withRosie Geronimo , skip- , , widely regardedasthehomeofARC.Thisyear’s Lucia, atRodneyBayMarina,whichhasbecome world’s largestannualtrans-oceanrally. etched itswayintotherecordsbooks,thistimeas staged. Twenty-fivevoyageslater,theeventhas Cruisers (ARC),thelongesttrans-oceanraceever the inauguralAtlanticRallyfor Las PalmasdeGranCanariaon yachts from24nationssetoff Spanish Navyfrigateand204 starting cannonwasfiredfroma St. Lucia! visit www.stbarthcatacup.com. to watch. should beaveryexcitingevent Tornado class. second onlytotheOlympic and theskilllevelinF18classis despite theirheavyconstruction do wellinraces.Theyarequitefast a skilledandphysicallyfitcrewto asymmetric spinnakersandrequire F18 races. fications mayparticipateinall limited setofgeneraldesignspeci- a Formulaclass—anyboatthatadherestocertain own F18boat;thisispossiblebecausetheclass boatbuilders whoallhavedesignedandbuilttheir Currently theF18classisservicedby11professional nized classwithbigracingfleetsallovertheglobe. early 1990sandquicklygrewtoafull-sizedISAFrecog- ries inthesportcatamaranscene.Itwasstarted November 18ththrough22nd. regatta intheCaribbean,thisyeartakingplacefrom of thebestskippersAntiguahastooffer! Foredeck bar. sailing. PrizeswillbepresentedontheSundayat Rescue willbepresentatalltheracestoensuresafe (weather permitting).AntiguaBarbudaSearchand on theSaturdayandthreeracesSunday dockage andaskippers’bag.Therewillbefourraces band attheForedeckbaronSaturday,plusfree which includesdinnerattheRegattaPartywitha Cruiser andRacer.TheentryfeeisEC$6perfoot, 1830 hours. Foredeck barinJollyHarbour,Antiguafrom1630to The skippersmeetingwillbeonthe12that held Saturday,November13thandSunday,the14th. ed intheprogram. year theislandsofAnguillaandSt.Barth’sareinclud- 16th asoneoftheevent’sconsistenthighlights.This from yeartoyear,with“StatiaDay”onNovember days’ racingfromislandtoisland.Theroutediffers event takesplacefromNovember13thto17th. between theUSandSt.Eustatius(Statia).Thisyear’s Rock Regatta,foundedtohighlightthehistoricalties

For 20outofthose25yearstheARChasendedinSt. On November25th,1986,the Silver JubileeARC:SailOnto For moreinformation Even ifyouarenotracing,this These F18sareequippedwith The Formula18class(F18)isoneofthesuccesssto- The StBarthCataCupistheleadingFormula18 The Formula18St.BarthCataCup For moreinformationvisitwww.JHYCAntigua.com. All arewelcome.Comesailandhavefunwithsome This regattawillhavethreeclasses:Cruiser,Racer- The JollyHarbourYachtClubAnnualRegattawillbe Jolly HarbourYachtClubRegatta,Antigua For moreinformationvisitwww.goldenrockregatta.com. Starting inSt.Maarten,theRegattaconsistsoffive HUXLEY FLIGHTS TO &FROM ST. LUCIA visit www.worldcruising.com. for Cruisers…SailonARC! ness tothealreadycolorfulhistoryofAtlanticRally which continuestofuelanticipationandaddedrich- for commemoratingthisSilverJubileeoftheARC, the excitementofnewandinnovativethingsplanned after year. of thisspecialeventthatenticespeoplebackyear sense ofcamaraderiethathasbecomethehallmark friendships intherelaxedatmosphereandprofound developed itsownspecialcharacter,forgingmany ensure buy-inandsupportfromthelocalcommunity. activities fortheparticipantsandalwaysseeksto dinating andspearheadingsomeofthekeyon-island last arrival. the bestfamilyperformance,oldestboat,and as presentingotherprizessuchthoseawardedfor performance, eitheronspeedorhandicap,aswell satisfy everyonetakingpartbyprovidingprizesfor acclaimed internationalservicedelivery. highest standardinfacilitiesmatchedbyequally Marina ensurethattoday’syachtspeopleenjoythe Multimillion-dollar upgradestotheIGYRodneyBay lished ontheinternationalsailingcalendar. exceeding 200entries,ithasbecomefirmlyestab- ing arecordentryof235yachtsandregularly was introduced. Racing DivisionusingtheChannelHandicapSystem competing ratherthansimplycruising,soin1989a as afunevent,manycrewsexpressedinterestin Indicating RadioBeacon(EPIRB).Althoughplanned should carryaliferaftandanEmergencyPositioning ty. Oneofthefewrulesstipulatesthateveryboat passage, anotherconsiderationwastoincreasesafe- add somezestandfriendlycompetitiontothelong Although oneofthethoughtsbehindthisRallywasto events. Forthisreasonrulesarekepttoaminimum. to themoreprofessionalnatureofsomeocean-sailing emphasize theamateur,Corinthianspiritasopposed between twoandthreeweekslater. participants areexpectedtoarriveinSt.Lucia Silver JubileeARCbeginsonNovember21st,andmost

NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! For moreinformationonSt.Luciavisitwww.stlucia.org. For moreinformationontheARC It isacombinationofallthosefactors,alongwith Since thestartofrally25yearsago,ARChas The SaintLuciaTouristBoardplaysaleadroleincoor- The ARCorganizers,WorldCruisingClub,attemptto With theeventcontinuingtogrowinstrength,reach- The aimoftheARC—boththenandnowisto AIR AMBULANCE New Services: OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 could New Moon ce (at left), rigged and ready to compete New Moon and rolling her down the beach on her side was con- sidered too risky with all that weight in her keel. She was hauled by men, women and children alike and eventually floated free to rapturous applause. The party lasted deep into the night and only watch as the red flag bearing her new name flut- tered in the breeze. Above: The keel meets seawater only two weeks before the island’s major regatta Left: Conviasa Grenada Ticket Offi New Moon Caracas, Havana, , Madrid We can also book Hotels for you in Margarita with a choice of 3 Star or 5 Star rated properties. TwiceTi Weekly W to kl Porlamar P and l connect to d ights in Reservations: Tel: (473) 439 4422 • [email protected] 6 Le Marquis Complex, Grand Anse, St George’s, GRENADA ights between Coming soon, Intra-Caribbean fl GRENADA and TRINIDAD - two fl each direction. sat in a cradle built for a previous launch- Agent: Dealer: The launching was a spectacle attended by the whole ...in Old and New... New... and Old Dominica, WI Left: Building a boat under the seaside trees at Windward is traditional… Above: … but the cradle launching is not The sails were borrowed just in time for regatta. And The sails were borrowed just in time for regatta. And there are still more lead ingots sitting in Dave’s yard than he knows what to do with. island. There was music and blessings with both blood and rum. There was a tent and a bar and food for all. New Moon ing, as the traditional “cutting” of one row of supports Budget Marine, Doyle 767-448-2705 Ext Marine

GOLDHILL 18 Victoria Street, Roseau Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Sailmaker, SeaChoice Products Mercury Marine, Yanmar Marine [email protected] DOMINICA MARINE CENTER : on the beach in FEATURES . Owned by Dave Genesis could be a documentary . However, he stuck to his ENGINES: 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) @ DUTY-FREE Prices New Moon won her class, even without her won her class, even without New Moon • Easy to carry 25% lighter than wooden-floor inflatables New Moon • Air filled floor makes kneeling or sitting extremely comfortable fresh from the fishing grounds, for the New Moon Air Deck boats can be stowed most anywhere. The Carriacou Regatta, held over the early August Regatta, held over the early The Carriacou The building of This year there were 13 competitors in the two This year there were 13 An old mast was found lying on the beach in While sticking to the traditional ways, Dave chose to Transport has never been easier – with no floor boards AVAILABLE: 6’ 7” (200cm) 46lb(21kg) 7’10” (240cm) 75lb(34kg) 8’10” (270cm) 86lb(39kg) 10’2” (310cm) 92lb(42kg) 11‘2“ (340cm) 99lb(45kg) “bank holiday”, is one of the highlights of this little is one of the highlights “bank holiday”, in 1965 for calendar. It was started Grenadine island’s in its hey- traditional workboats. Back the locally built decked sloops 1980s, some 20 of these day in the early 1984 regatta. only two remained for the competed, but part to Alexis Andrews’ commissioning Thanks in large of the building of the 40-foot in itself. Dave stayed true to the Carriacou style of in itself. Dave stayed true to the Carriacou style of scavenging and reusing materials wherever possible. The 42-foot Douglas fir mast was found in St. Vincent, still with all its original galvanised rigging; it had come from an old gaffer, which nearly inspired Dave to intro- duce a gaff on by Kirsty Morrison the growing fleet, on her decked sloop classes. Among maiden voyage, sailed Windward and quickly one mast became two booms. the village of Windward in 2005, there has been a real the village of Windward in trade. renaissance of the boatbuilding original plan (which is usually no plan at all in Carriacou!), stripped off the heavy rigging and replaced it with some stainless steel wire he had found in a dumpster in Antigua. He had sailed up to Antigua on Margeta O, also move with the times. The locals knew the location of a lead keel from an Irwin 44 that had gone down in Hurricane Ivan in 2004. A lifting barge was commis- sioned and, after unimaginable complications, the keel ended up in a backyard in Grenada along with an over- turned truck. The truck had landed on a dog kennel and there were pit bulls running wild. But eventually the lead was cut and transported to Carriacou where an external keel and ingots for internal ballast were cast while resting on wheel rims over a fire on the beach. owner aboard. His second son helmed while Dave and owner aboard. His second son they are making Alexis shot footage for a documentary about these magical vessels. Classic Yacht Regatta — she was the only truly work- ing workboat to compete. Goldhill, a longtime resident of Carriacou, she was Goldhill, a longtime resident on Sunday, June launched just two weeks beforehand, gods, you never launch a 11th. If you know your sea week down island. A little boat on any other day of the to race in the B Class. under 32 feet, she was built numbers of the larger Although thrilled by the growing keen to revive the smaller boats in A Class, Dave was within the pockets of the class and keep these boats layman. OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 UNIQUEILE-À-VACHE,HAITI PartTwo: 071°38.260W intenfeetofclearwater. western border.Wewereanchoredat17°50.91N, the mountainsdescendingaftersungoesdown. the DominicanRepublic.Thesewindsarecoldairfrom katabatic windscomingdownfromthemountainsof will probablybereducedthankstotheeffectof well asthecurrentinourfavoralthoughtradewinds results insmoothseas.Wewillhavethetradewindsas ing undertheleeofPuntaBeata,whichmosttimes we donothaveanymoonlight.Inadditionaresail- can sailwestwithoutregardtoanyobstacles,evenif Bahia deLasAguilasissolargeandwidethatwe to ourdestinationisapproximately115nauticalmiles. 22% more (sea)horses 22% more We havedecidedtosetsailat6:00 AT horsepower inthesamepackage. available M200 andM235provides than22%additional more thePerkins M225Tiisdesignedtoreplace Sabre Perkins The everything haseasyaccessforstress-freemaintenance. With Perkins’ outstandingmarinization,excesshosesand beltshavebeenengineeredawayand with longerlifeandbetterefficiency. charger givesbetterperformanceatlowerrpms. An integralplate The gear-drivenfreshwaterpumphasalongerlifeandlesstogowrongwhilethewaste gateturbo TBO) andquieteroperation. versus thecompetition’s 3300rpmorhigher, theM225Ti willhavea longerlife(minimum12,000hour By comparison,ournearestcompetitiontake This largecapacity6literenginecomesinacompactpackageandonlytakesout225hp.

Dominican Republic,closetothe Aguilas onthesouthshoreof were anchoredatBahiadeLas the conclusionofPartOne,we www.partsandpower.com Call Parts&Powerforyournearestdealer: (284)4942830 PM , asthedistance The anchorageatIle-à-Vache(CowIsland)iswellprotectedanduncrowded THE FORGOTTENCARIBBEANBYFRANKVIRGINTINO s thatoutofa4literengine.Runningatlow2500rpm unassisted. Youneedonlygivethewestshoreawide hotel islocated,easyandmostboatscangoin assistance. TheentrancetotheBaieàFeret,where will mosttimessendoutaguideboatifyouwouldlike of theisland.ThehotelanswersVHFchannel16and Hotel (www.PortMorgan.com),isatthenorthwestend effort. Theanchorageweseek,atthePortMorgan coral heads,whichwhilenavigable,arenotworththe east sideoftheisland,therearenumerousshoalsand the island,asentryisthenstraightforward.On we willturnnorthandtheneast. 18°02.871N, 073°40.767W.Oncewereachthispoint Ile-à-Vache, Haiti.Thisarbitrarywaypointisat the shadowofisland. They haveastallingeffectonthetradewindswithin Ile-à-Vache isbestapproachedfromthewestendof Arriving atIle-à-Vache Our destinationisapointatthesouthwestendof - type oilcoolercombines fewer hoses Sabre M225Ti Sabre

M92B M135 M225Ti WWW.KAIOHANA.COM —Continuedonnextpage reasonable prices. are handmadeontheislandandofgoodqualityat format, tohand-sewnitems,youwillseeobjectsthat ings, whichareverywelldoneandHaitianintheir to timeyouwillhaveanopportunity.Fromoilpaint- to purchasesomeofthevillagehandicrafts,fromtime very friendlyandhappytowelcomecruisers. be retiringbutaremorethancordial.Mostpeople will findthevillageneatandclean.Thevillagerstendto that theydidnotfeeltheformalitieswerenecessary. would recommendbutmanycruisershavetoldme or twodonotclearinout.ThisisapracticeI Vache, andmanyoftheboatswhostoponlyforaday dent. TherearenoImmigrationfacilitiesonIle-à- town andIhavegonetheremanytimeswithoutinci- nautical milesnorthwestonthemainland.Itisasafe yourself. ThetownofLesCayesisalittleoverfive them processedforyou,oryoucangoinyourdinghy them tothesmalltownofLesCayesbyboatandhave give yourpassportstothehotelstaffandtheywilltake village very,verysafe. few lightsatnight.Youwillfindtheanchorageand other thananisolatedgenerator,sotherearealsovery There arenocarsandtheislandhaselectricity to themarketandnearbyvillageofMadameBernard. You caneasilyfindlaundryservices,andguidedtrips Creole, butsomecancommunicateinEnglishaswell. occupies thehillsidetoeastandhasadinghydock. of smallbuildings,housesandfishingboats.Thehotel water withgoodholding. When insidethebayyoucananchorintenfeetof berth toavoidasmallreefandsomeshoalwater. Although thereisnoorganizedmarket,ifyouwant You canwalkthroughtheVillageofCailleCoqandyou The VillageofCailleCoq Clearing inissimpleandstraightforward.Youcan The peoplefromthevillagespeakmostlyFrenchand The village,calledCailleCoq,ismadeupofacollection OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

VAILLEQUEVAILLE.BLOGSPOT.COM site One of the

do not like their picture do not like their he through their web Vac and if you attempt to take a pic- and if you attempt At the village of Madame Bernard, youAt the village of that There are a number of groups u ta t v w S n 5 4 o d b c c d w a taken permission you may ture without their an incident. very well cause Sister Flora’s orphanage.will also find a small Canadian CatholicSister Flora is nearlynun who arrived on Ile-à-Vache of about50 years ago. She takes care some 60400 children in total, including at yourorphans. Donations are strictly be soliciteddiscretion and you will not by her or her organization. youngclinics in her hospital assists ill and if youchildren who are seriously to leavedo choose to visit be prepared with wet eyes. of Ile-à- assist Ile-à-Vache. Friends Vache Haiti, a non-profit organization, Vache Haiti, a non-profit organization, economic is dedicated to sustainable and are development. They have done cent that doing a wonderful job. Every Ile-à-Vache is donated to Friends of organiza- goes to the community as the are abso- tion works for free and there nds of Ile à Frie act magazine circa 1950. While you will be safe walk- 1950. While you will be magazine circa cont can You es National Geographic pens oex Last year cruising sailboats, including those participating in the Transcaraibes Last year cruising sailboats, including those participating introduced at Ile-à-Vache Times are changing and I am sure there will be changes Jamaica and continue Next month we will up anchor and set course for Port Antonio, utely n lutely no expenses. You can contact Friends of Ile-à-Vache through their website lutely no expenses. You can contact Friends of Ile-à-Vache (www.friendsofileavache.com) for information and details. Prior to that, the cruising rally, brought hundreds of pounds of needed supplies. engines for the fishermen. community brought in a number of rebuilt outboard than it is today. If you in the not-too-distant future that will make it very different as it was prior to 1960, want a safe setting in which to experience the Caribbean Ile-à-Vache should not be missed. information on Haiti, see our journey through the Forgotten Caribbean. For additional the free cruising guide at www.haiticruisingguide.com. ing through the market, you will find yourself very much out of what you are famil- very much out of what market, you will find yourself ing through the of Haitians keep in mind that the majority iar with. Please sounds and smells of a traditional marketplace in action. The market is reminiscent in action. The market of a traditional marketplace sounds and smells of articles in Clockwise from above: Sister Flora (at Clockwise from above: Sister Madame right) runs the orphanage at from a local Bernard; a welcoming wave bank”; anoth- fishing boat; the “no problem er view of the bay

BATE a good not l d th th i Haiti is a country of strong contrasts. While I have not heard in all my visits to Ile- The Village of Madame Bernard à th a s start the job and be fair. E Economically there are rich and poor in the la large cities and poor everywhere else outside o of the large cities. When you come to Ile-à- V Vache you will find a place that is tranquil a and that has a strong and o of welcoming cruising boats. The people are fu full of smiles and their village is a model of o organization and cleanliness. There are, how- e ever, very few jobs, so money is always in s short supply. Donations of all types are g greatly appreciated. However, it is id th S r fo w idea to give gifts directly to individuals, as that always leaves someone feeling left out. Seek out the island administrator, who is readily available; he will accept donations of food, clothing and supplies for the school and will be sure that they are apportioned fairly. à-Vache of a case of theft, please keep in mind that your boat is seen as a floating castle and access to below decks should be avoided. hi hi b iddThi t Continued from previous page Continued from Md B di b t h ’ You can arrange to eat at one of the homes where they will cook for you at a mod- You can arrange to eat at one If school is in session you can visit the school, which is located just out of sight at which is located just session you can visit the school, If school is in Madame Bernard is about an hour’s walk from the anchorage at Caille Coq. You Madame Bernard is about an hour’s walk from the anchorage

est price, or arrange to have them cook your meal and have it delivered to you at the them cook your meal and have it delivered to you at est price, or arrange to have has a fine menu as well as dinghy dock. Additionally you can eat at the hotel, which for those who need to catch wonderful vistas. They also have an internet connection from the village and offer you up. There are a few local islanders who will come out basic work such as cleaning their service if you need work on your boat. This is for a price established before you a bottom or sanding and so forth. Be sure you have th a Their smiles and waves are worth more than the girls have their hair braided. in Manhattan. shopping spree on 5th Avenue i l h the back of the village. It is a wonderful thing to listen to a few hundred children sing to listen to a few hundred village. It is a wonderful thing the back of the and many of with brown pants or skirts, uniforms are yellow tops in French. Their — could make your way there on your own, but it is much easier and more informative could make your way there on your own, but it is much can make it there via a short to have a guide go with you. In settled weather you from all over the island dinghy ride. Two days a week a market is held and people This is a spectacle you do not as well as others from the mainland come to trade. to experience all the sights, want to miss. You will be transported back in time LEGENDRE OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 advisable tohavesmalldenominationsofanycurrencyonhand,putupwith the DominicanRepublic’sgovernmentindealingwithforeignvisitors. learning Spanish.InSamaná,guidestaketurnsassistingthoserepresentativesof Guerra ( guide whocameaboardwiththeNavy’swelcomingcommitteeofLaMarinade make theirwayasbesttheycouldintheCaribbeanclimate.Martin,translator/ and manyEnglish-speakingdescendantsofSamaná’sfoundingfathers. net access,postalservice,publictransportation,waterandfuelon-boarddelivery, able intermsoftimeandmoney,withgoodprovisioningforfreshlocalfoods,inter- enjoy whilewaitingforournexteastingwindow:nearingtheMonaPassage,afford- into Hispaniola. hemisphere’s snowbirdsreturntobreathesomeeconomiclife watching isabigattractioninSamanáBay,andthenorthern value, andmaybearriveatamutualagreement.Inwinter,whale holiday vacationingcustomersyet,sowecanfreelydiscuss ricane seasonisagoodtimetoshop;salespeopledon’thavetheir bargain forasale.Beforethetouristseasonstartsupagain,hur- spend thedifferenceinsouvenirshops,morethanwillingto seasonal fruitsandveggiesatveryreasonableprices.Youcould from T-shirtsandtowelstoherbsspices,awidevarietyof on hand. bill (about27dollars)asfewvendorswillhavethatmuchmoney pedestrians. Ontothemarket,stoppingchangea1000-peso street, wherewewaitouta30-percent-chanceshowerwithother Skip andIrunforsheltertothetouristicmallacrossmain puddles, totheparkwherehorsesgrazeandkidsplaybaseball. and trekdownarockyroad,throughweeds,wildflowers, with thedog,haultenderuptodriftwoodfence,tieoff RepublicaDominicana Mañana aSamaná, Almost everyDominicanporthassuchawelcoming(fund-raising)process,soitis Quakers fromPhiladelphiashippedanumberoffreedslavesherelongago,to For us,Samaná,ontheDominicanRepublic’snortheastcoast,isasafeharborto Samaná’s marketisacornucopiaofcomestiblesandmore, On afeather-gray,SPFtropicalsummermorning,Irowashore Una ProfesiónHonorable by PenelopeBlissDelpy istheirmotto)spokeEnglishasachildbefore provides alongwalkwithgreatviews Forming onesideoftheanchorage,Samaná’s‘breezeway’or‘bridgetonowhere’ —Continuedonnextpage speaking household,hisGrandmaMillerhavingbeenbornintoslaveryintheUSA. and achat.LikemanyseniorcitizensofSamaná,MartinwasraisedinanEnglish- Spanish works,butIcallonourtranslator/guideattimes,forlocalknowledge,help whose turnithappenedtobeontheMondaywelandedhere,wastrulyhelpful.My cracy. Theminimalcostiswellworththesavingsinhassleandfrustration.Martin, translator isaplus,anoptionthatcanhelpyounavigatethehallsofLatinbureau- these entryproceduresandtomaintainapolitevisitor’sattitude.InSamaná,the OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 , busy dealing with her , busy dealing —Continued on next page comandante to visit Los Haitises when you check into Samaná. While I was when you check into to visit Los Haitises despacho A different delay in this process was the Public Health blood pressure person, who A different delay in this process was the Public Health buoy marked BAHIA; When we first arrived in Samaná, we grabbed a mooring La Bahia de San Lorenzo is part of Los Haitises, an easy sail southwest from Haitises, an easy sail southwest San Lorenzo is part of Los La Bahia de Ask for a Our welcoming committee at Rio San Juan secretary just because. despacho cost nothing but a little time, and I tipped the for any and everybody. Mine appeared and volunteered free blood pressure readings control... Take it easy! is okay, the secretary’s was just fine, Martin’s is under will come to you to collect. it costs between five and ten dollars a day, and Joe charges, didn’t take much interest in my despacho request, so I spent some time on despacho request, so I spent take much interest in my charges, didn’t and returned in less than an hour, while the secretary a couple of other errands I gathered that so many tourist excursions of greater typed up my permission slip. the to Los Haitises daily, one sailboat is of little import; proportions are dispatched this Parque Nacional de los Haitises by way of Sabana de la Mar, to see the Indian way of Sabana de la Mar, de los Haitises by this Parque Nacional beauty of this unique site. and marvel at the primeval cave-paintings, gorgeous, to experience this indescribably within a bay, you need Samaná. A bay see boats full and clear, you’ll probably hole. The entrance is wide natural hurricane dinghy-friendly. deep into a river that is through. The bay goes of visitors whizzing theft of her open a local woman reporting procedures, I overheard following red-tape the went beyond mine, but boat. Her Spanish

, cuartel Motoconchos (dock), where you (dock), where restaurant is very muelle comidas internacionales’ type carved from a single tree trunk. type carved from a single tree cayuco Continued from previous page Continued from A little further into town, Fon Von’s ‘ Straight across the bay, south-southwest, lies Sabana de la Mar, the sweetest little lies Sabana de la Mar, the the bay, south-southwest, Straight across In the park around the quay, different forms of Dominican fishing craft abound, different forms of Dominican fishing craft abound, In the park around the quay, nice, charming, and helpful with any touristic information you need. After we nice, charming, and helpful with any touristic information purée, our hosts hooked enjoyed a tasty lunch of fresh shrimp scampi with plantain to take us further inland. us up with the honest, pleasant taxi driver we needed around the area, which is There are officially licensed guides who can show you To the west, an impres- renowned for its pre-Columbian, indigenous Taino history. park. Many Dominicans visit sive expanse of virgin forest is preserved as a national tether your dinghy to the iron ladder behind the big gray Navy launch. the big gray Navy launch. to the iron ladder behind tether your dinghy ever. Don’t even think about anchoring there, the coral reefs offer little anchoring there, the coral ever. Don’t even think about fishing village from the Samaná there are six ferries daily protection, but — including the (barracks) is a big bamboo structure you can’t miss, with a trim little yard in front. can’t miss, with a trim little big bamboo structure you (barracks) is a marvel at the relax, have a cool drink, and backyard table, you can Inside or at a this clean, conveniently located, spacious, rest stop. artistic wood architecture of motorcycle chauffeurs, crowd the end of the Sabana de la Mar muelle in hopes of a the Sabana de la Mar muelle crowd the end of motorcycle chauffeurs, the ferry dock get involved; right near can transport, but you needn’t customer they and the between the police station street from a big park, and across the OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 docks, acleanedbeach,internet,cruisers’net,yachtclub,tikihutbar,cheapres- reviews abouttheplace.Luperónhasalmostallyachtingconveniences—dinghy On amoonlessnight,goslow. barge smackdabinthemiddleofLuperónentrance(about19°54’N17°56’.77W). soon! Arrivingindaylight,wecouldseeandskirttheenormoushalf-sunkeniron fragrant hillsofHispaniola,wewerelookingforwardtosomefreshproduceand got tobeworththeirweightingold,butforprovisioning...asweapproachedthe east, Luperónisamostconvenientwaypoint.ThoseflashyBahamiansunsetshave Dominican Republic.ComingfromtheBahamasthroughTurks&Caicossouth- tected, popularvenueforboaters.WemadeLuperónourveryfirstportofcallinthe past Samanáwestward,withcondominiumhousingonthehillside. bottom isnastymud,fairlygoodanchorholding,quitedeep.Thereamarina docks thathavebeenleftinmid-constructionattheendofSamanáharbor.The that arewrappedaroundsunkencementpilings,probablyintendedtobuildthe down; Domingo,whodivestomaintainthem,showedmethehumungouschains My neighborJeff,whosesailboat — By nowLuperónissowellknownthatfromMartiniquetoKeyWestwehearrave True, Luperón,ontheDominicanRepublic’snorthcoast,isaperfectlywellpro- Continued frompreviouspage Janice Ann ismooredhere,putthemoorings yet readytogo,butalwayshelp. with BrucevanSant’sguidebook, bound fortheFrenchWestIndies,soweslippedaway,alltoosoon,motoringeast ple neverdogetaroundtoleavingLuperón,it’sjustsocomfortable,actually!We’re cities, andbeautifulwalksalongtroddenpathsinthesurroundinghills.Somepeo- get ourpreciousinternetweatherreports.There’scheappublictransporttonearby corner pasttheOrangecell-phoneshop,fixedusupwithWiFionboardsowecould general boatingmatters.Alexander’s,straightdownthestreetfromCustoms,ona the catamaran clients, isagoodsailor.TommyandcrewareinoutofLuperónBayregularlyon for anyboatover36feet.) Dominican RepublichasnotyetreachedthatboldBahamianlumpsumofUS$300 process, moretaxes.(Still,thetotalofalltipsandtaxeswe’vepaidin her veterinarycertificateofgoodhealthintheUS—anothertax.Clearingout,same agriculture repwastheonlyofficialtotakeanynoticeofourdogsincewebought there. Thepaperworkisachore,asusual,andthelistoftaxesgoesonon. taurants, waterandfuel,lotsofboatpeople.Itishardertoleavethanitget —Continuedonnextpage mented usonournavigatingthroughthecoralheads,andwepartedgoodterms. 24 hours.Thewelcome/entryfeeguyswerenotparticularlypleased,buttheycompli- would notsetfootonlandandgotoutofpayinganyentryfee,promisingtoleavewithin dad’s boat.WehadadispatchtoSamanáwepaidforinLuperón,soswore accosted bythewelcomewagon:acoupleofmilitarytypes,andfisherman’ssoninhis on therecommendationofaFrenchcouplewemetinLuperón.Innotimewere Below: PeaceinElValle—myfavoriteanchorageonthiscoast Left: Atypicaldugout For localnauticalhelp,Tommy,whodoesday-sailingtripswithHotelLuperón We motorsailed through the night to anchor at Rio San Juan, near Cabo Francés Viejo, We motorsailedthroughthenighttoanchoratRioSanJuan,nearCaboFrancésViejo, DreamSail cayuco ; hehasworkingknowledgeofmaintenance,weather,and atSabanadelaMar Passages South , agiftfrombigoldschoonernot OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Clinica , but the Cuban doctor can’t handle , but the Cuban doctor can’t AM So José remembers a Cuban doctor he So José remembers a Cuban we were cruising the streets of Higuey by AMW ¡La más cerca! ¡Asi, asi!) ) on our despacho, but we had a doctor’s excuse. And besides, the tax ) on our despacho, but we had a doctor’s excuse. And . (Before we fast-forward to the moral of this gory surgical story, let me this gory surgical story, let to the moral of . (Before we fast-forward la fecha Stay tuned; this too shall pass. We’re enjoying our stay in Samaná, and we’ll be Stay tuned; this too shall pass. We’re enjoying our stay Finally, we arrived at Clinica Balthazar, which has a resident general surgeon who Finally, we arrived at Clinica Balthazar, which has a resident leaving Macao and heading A month later, Tropical Depression Colin scared us into Whenever we reached a crossroads, José would ask us which town we preferred to would ask us which town reached a crossroads, José Whenever we A light was on at the cuartel, where José, beach restaurateur/entrepreneur, parks beach restaurateur/entrepreneur, at the cuartel, where José, A light was on Inside Punta Macao, a sweet anchorage near the eastern tip of the island. Inside Punta Macao, a sweet anchorage near the eastern Puerto Rico… and more It provides a good jumping-off point for the passage to collector was absent from his office on the day I went to pay the entry fee, so it was collector was absent from his office on the day I went waived indefinitely. Mañana, man. cruising again before you can say I told you so. night, an hour further inland. 2010 at Punta Macao, Sol partners with a urologist, and that’s why we spent July why I know the Top 40 on the de Plata. Back and forth to Higuey for weeks. That’s you’re going! Dominican hit parade. The moral is: Hey, look where fast to our original despa- back west, still with close ties to the urologist, still holding sailed from El Valle to Punta cho to Samaná, which we had skipped past when we committee checked the Hicaco. The delay raised an eyebrow when the welcoming date ( de Urgencia the fort and all, so sleepy, having guarded accompanying Marine was add that our frantic search for on some music, so our he asked José to put being 20-something, Antony the great guitarist and songwriter help was to the tune of urgent medical — Santos, very upbeat try. Whichever is closer! is open at 2:00 knows. That clinic, in Bavarro, his pick-up. The enlisted men were helpful, quick, and sympathetic, hardly batting quick, and sympathetic, enlisted men were helpful, his pick-up. The and the four of injury. José was roused miserable state of serious an eye at Skip’s drove off in search of an emergency one Marina de Guerra guy, us, including this particular injury, and believe me, it was on its way to gangrene. We’d never even me, it was on its way to gangrene. We’d never even this particular injury, and believe condition Skip’s nether regions were in. Well, one good imagined anything like the doctor leads to another, and by 3:00 , and don’t coctel de frutas Continued from previous page Continued from Which is quicker, east or west? We made it back to Punta Macao in a fraction of the timeWhich is quicker, east or west? We made it back to Punta From Punta Macao, if you need provisions or internet you have to grab a bus or a From Punta Macao, if you need provisions or internet of the trash we’re trailing It gets worse. Skip decides to try and gaff away some Punta Macao was a sweet anchorage. We found a way to buy diesel nearby, and gavePunta Macao was a sweet anchorage. however... Leaving at We almost crossed the Mona Passage from Punta Macao, From Punta Hicaco we motored down the coast to Punta Macao near the eastern down the coast to Punta Macao near the eastern From Punta Hicaco we motored Rounding the double cape northeast of Samaná Bay by night, we sailed past the northeast of Samaná Bay by night, we sailed past the Rounding the double cape Our next anchorage on the way to Samaná was El Valle (a.k.a. Puerto Escondido), was El Valle (a.k.a. Puerto on the way to Samaná Our next anchorage We stayed just long enough to buy a fresh fish from some passing fishermen, then fish from some passing fishermen, long enough to buy a fresh We stayed just it would have taken to reach Puerto Rico, and anchored in a big hurry, in the pitch dark.it would have taken to reach Puerto Rico, and anchored in motorcycle ride to La Ceiba, the next village inland. It’s not far; you’ll be back in time motorcycle ride to La Ceiba, the next village inland. It’s of the biggest fruit/vegetable for tea. An air-conditioned mini-bus will stop in front store on the west end of La Ceiba. Enjoy their specialty, poking away garbage wrapped before it gets into the rudder, too. So he clambers aft, in a companionway and the tight around the shaft, and ends up falling with one leg internally. other half over the side — owee! — and bleeding away the comandante a 20-dollar bill to take care of whatever. His enlisted men do guardthe comandante a 20-dollar by parties of tourists, foreign and Dominican. Puntathe beach, which is well loved (silver sun), is an on-going fiesta with music, horsebackMacao’s beach, Sol de Plata hawkers, food and drink. In the afternoon and evening,riding, dune buggies, souvenir on happy people frolicking in the surf. For yachts, littlethe silver sun beams down to the profile-like cliff, is the best-protected spot Palomita Beach, nestled behind the It’s safe and secluded, guarded by the owners of anchor in sand, grass and rocks. just south of Punta Macao. Yachties are welcome to strollbig hotel under construction golf course — just climb the stairs to the tiki hut,around its magnificent landscaped Roco Key.which will someday be part of a future marina named with but a stray fishing buoy, dawn, a few miles underway what should we meet up big old outboard engine, built a horrific construction about the size and shape of a line, and a black garbage bag, out of styrofoam, polypropylene netting, rope, fishing weren’t paying attention, as with a rusty iron bar where the shaft part would be. We mess was already tangled we should have been. Our motor cut off when the whole northeast, avoiding some up in the propeller. Too much swell to dive, so we sailed squalls we could see headed our way. tip of the island. Basically we moved either during the night lee, or in the early dawn moved either during the night lee, or in the early dawn tip of the island. Basically we on untenable east winds. hours, daytime invariably bringing on the windshield. forget to flag down your bus; its destination is on a sign bay and kept on south-southeast to Punta Hicaco, east of Miches. A crescent of to Punta Hicaco, east of Miches. A crescent bay and kept on south-southeast up, sure enough, two guys from the cuartel showed beach ringed with palm trees... the dispatch excuse instead of an entry fee. One of and got the same Samaná wrap his military issue revolver in, to keep it dry, travel- marines used his shorts to everyone? ing in his wet briefs — doesn’t my favorite. The entrance has these inverted-bowl signature islets, and the hills are signature islets, entrance has these inverted-bowl my favorite. The beach where valley leads to a quiet little cloud shapes. The deepest as fantastic as mountains, brigade! Just the jungle-green tranquillity; no welcoming we anchored in the dear old dog, — perfect for a walk with a stream of sweet water tropical sounds, and a much-needed siesta. squeezed our way back out while it was still daylight, and anchored next to the Swim daylight, and anchored way back out while it was still squeezed our enough. A bit of held our Danforth well less tricky. The rocky bottom Club, which is night lee... we went, under cover of the R&R, and on — OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 over andourinitialenthusiasmwasstarting towaneascomplaintsaboutblistered had socarefullykeptdrywerewetthrough. Therockssoonbecameslipperytoclimb to catchit!Typical.Wewerenowsoaked tothebone,andclothesthatboys we neededtofillourdwindlingwatertanks arrived—whilewewerenotontheboat wouldn’t leavewithouthim. spot andrested,allthewhilekeeping acarefuleyethathisnewfoundfriends the strangesongsoftropicalforest. Spot/Stumpy/Rovercurledupinashady icked inthecoolwater,listeningtogentle soundsofthewaterslippingbyandto wet, whippedofftheirshortsandjumped innakedtoachorusofgiggles.Wefrol- Sam andIalreadyhadourswimwearon,theboys,notwantingtogettheirclothes bothered andinneedofagoodcoolingoff.Wepickedpooltoourlikingwhile affectionately calledSpotorStumpyRover,dependingonwhowastalkingtohim. The shooingstoppedandinsteadwecalledwordsofencouragementtothedognow river wefeltobligedtohelphim,makingsurehewouldgetbacktownwithuslater. bled somuch,slippingdowntheboulders,thatafterawhilewewerefarup the when hewouldgethimselfstuckonarockbydeeperpool.Hescrapedandscram- ing inwater,hedidnotliketoswim,whichwouldleavehimwhimperingandwhining human counterpartsstepfirstacrosstherocksand,althoughheseemedhappywad- not bedeterredandfollowedusfartherupriver.Hewouldalwayslet his dog awayandnotencouragehimtofollowus.Howeverthegallantlittlemuttwould at thebeginningoftripandalthoughweareallanimalloverstriedtoshoo the places. Inspotsitformeddeeperpools,enticingusin. feet wide,runsoverrocksandbouldersisnotmorethantwodeepinmost canopy toprotectusfromtheheatofsun.Theshallowriver,whichisabout15 fresh watersparklingasitflowedpastus.Thelargetreesandvinesformedanatural a bunchofexcitedschoolchildren,zigzaggingourwayuptheriverwithcool way intothehillside. From thispointonyouareclamberingfrombouldertoastheriverwindsits concrete roadleadsbackinlandalongsidetheriveruntilityoudirectlytoit. already highintheskyandsweatwaspouringfromus. were readytocommencethewalk.Thingsnotlookingpromisingassunwas just beforethebridgeupsmallriver.Havinggotformalitiesoutofwaywe a goandwouldcomeashorewithusanyway,toclearin. that canwadethroughwaterandnotskid)theyreluctantlyagreedto difficulty ratingofthewalk(abouta5out10)andtypeshoerequired(one ghied overtoencouragethemcomewithus.Aftermuchdiscussionaboutthe today wastowalkupthecooltranquilwatersofRiverDeshaies. Batterie ortothedelightfulbotanicalgardensalittlefartherup.Butourplanfor the southoftown,byfishermen’sbreakwater,youcanwalktoparkatPoint you canfollowtheroadtoapaththatleadsoneofGuadeloupe’sbestbeaches.To made jewellery. shops adornthestreets,sellingtheirwaresofpostcards,batiks,sarongsandlocally rants andcafésoffersomeofthebesteatinginGuadeloupe.Charmingsouvenir around, relaxandsoakuptheambianceofFrenchWestIndies.Thelittlerestau- men alike.Thesmallpicturesquetownisalwaysanenchantingplacetowalk the surroundinghillsoffersasafeandscenicanchorageforbothsailorsfisher- feet togoashore. several daysinAntigua,boatboundduetounsettledweather,andweregettingitchy bumpy ridefromAntiguaaboardyacht byRosieBurr inDeshaies Our Dog Day Our DogDay No soonerhadwedriedoffthantheheavens openedupandthelong-awaitedrain After anhouroftrampinguptheriver,despiteshadeoffered,wewerehotand It seemedthatwehadgainedafifthmemberonourtrek.Astraydogjoinedus With asuddenboutofenthusiasmwewereboundingalongfromrocktolike To jointheriver,justfollowitbackfrombridgeatsouthendoftown.A So withoutfurtheradowedinghiedinpastthefishermen’sbreakwaterandtiedup Our friendsJonandSamon There isalwaysgoodwalkingtobefoundinDeshaies.Atthenorthendoftown Deshaies hasalwaysbeenoneofourfavouritestops.Thedeepbayprotectedby Simeon andIarrivedinDeshaiesonthenorthwestcornerofGuadeloupeaftera Imagine ofFalmouth Alianna, our1983Corbin39.Wehadspent hadalsojustarrivedsowedin-

DESTINATIONS maybe give it feet andbrokenshoes)thiswasnotmeanttobetoday. waterfall asthesunshinesthroughgorgeitfallsfrom.Butsadly(duetoblistered reached averysmallbutprettywaterfall.Ifyoutimeitright,canenjoythe again. Ifwehadcarriedonuptheriverforanotherfiveminuteswouldhave it wasnotlongbeforeweclimbedupthebankandputourfeetonflatsolidground roots andvinestostopusfromslidingdownonourbums. As therainedstartedtoease,wenavigatedourwaybackriver,hangingon covered inwetmud,andtookcoverforawhileunderneaththehouse,dogall. abandoned houseonstiltsabout20feetupthebank.Wescrambledup,getting feet orbrokenshoeswereannounced. a walkuptheDeshaiesRiverismust. legs. Ourlittleescapadewasoverforthe day. until wefinallyfoundarestaurantselling coldbeerandaplacetorestourweary until thecoolofafternoon—itseemed nothingwasopen.Wescouredthestreets still theendoflonglunchbreakduring whichtheFrenchclosetheirbusinesses and hisentourageturnleftcrossthe roadontothebeachtofrolicinsand. though wewerethePiedPipers.Onlyat thecattlegriddidourmascotforday little kittenwithabrokentail.Theyall startedfollowingustowardsthetownas animals: twomoredogs,oneofthemwithscarilyhumanfeatures,andthecutest Spot racedonaheadtothegarbagedisposalarea,wherewewereaccostedbymore our waydown.Theviewsopeneduptothebaybelow. side oftheroadandgreenpasturesrolleddownslopeshillaswewound decline ofthehillwehadclimbedwithoutrealizingitsangle.Mangotreeslined the us backdownthehilltotown.Ourlegsnowcriedoutastheyadjustedsteep been oneofourfavouritestops du jour—shelteredfromtherainunderanabandonedhouse;Deshaieshasalways with usonahike;theshallowriverrunsoverrocksandboulders;we—dog Clockwise fromabove:Weencouragedourfriends After another20minutesorsowecouldseetheroadhomerunningaboveusand Luckily, justashortclamberawayfromtheriverwefoundwhatseemedtobean If anyoneislookingforafreemini-adventure literallyonyourboat’sdoorstep,then Now itwastimetoturnourattentionthat well-deservedbeer.Butaghast!Itwas We werenowreadyforthatmuch-neededbeerasthetownopenedupbeforeus. Spot wasstillwithusandseemedtoknowexactlywherehegoingasled Imagine ofFalmouth tocome OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

WILFRED DEDERER readers life membership as well Compass we welcome new advertisers Insurance Consultants of we welcome new advertisers Insurance Consultants of Compass For more information call Pat Mitchell at (784) 458-3800. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Good to have you with us! This boat museum is being built on a remarkable lookout site above Friendship Bay, lookout site above is being built on a remarkable This boat museum The rafters go up on the Bequia Heritage Foundation’s new boat museum as you The rafters go up on the Bequia Heritage Foundation’s a life member read this. You can help complete the roof — and become as their name inscribed on the donor plaque on donations of over US$200. as their name inscribed on the donor plaque on donations on this page; Sparkle Grenada, on page 39; the Laurena Hotel of Carriacou, St. Lucia, Rogers Outboard Laundry of St. Lucia, on page 37; and De Kornah Ba of all in the Market Place Service of St. Lucia, and PJ’s Laundry Service on Grenada, section, pages 43 through 45. for US$4,000 to finish the roof. Donations of all sizes are welcomed by Herman for US$4,000 to finish the roof. Donations of all sizes are Belmar, [email protected], or Pat Mitchell, [email protected]. The Bequia Heritage Foundation is offering natural bent limbs of the local cedar tree for ribs, and the design has a pointed for ribs, and the design has of the local cedar tree natural bent limbs before engines. with rough seas in the days bow, the better to cope stern as well as in maneu- the bow-shaped stern useful would have found The original whaleboat this design the understand the beauty of a targeted whale. To better vering around log, also a made from a hollowed-out a contrasting Carib canoe museum will show different animal. in its way, but a totally marvel and efficient friends. The wonderful and disparate to the donations of many thanks completely ideally roofing material, which you read this, but the galvanized rafters go up as are looking further financing. The trustees as quickly as possible, awaits should follow Continued from page 6 Continued from At the back are separate “yel- At the back are How You Can Lend a Hand Tom and Harriet Linskey report: Perhaps you’re thinking, “This — low pages” directories of marine low pages” directories in Trinidad and related services arranged by and in Tobago, pages” listings category; “blue items by trade- of where to find pages” with mark; and “white entries listed alphabetically. at chandleries, Available free in marinas and the YSATT office Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Here’s how Hands Across the the Sea is fighting low literacy in Caribbean: We ask school teachers, principals, and Peace Corps volunteers in the Caribbean to assemble a Wish they List of books and materials need and then we get what it they need, and then we ship of to them. This October, as part our Caribbean Literacy and School Support program Hands will ship approximately 43,000 books and 92 boxes of teaching materials to 47 schools, 10,000 students, and eight community libraries/reading projects. To make a donation, visit www.handsacrossthesea.net/Donate.htm. Life Membership Offer from Bequia Heritage Foundation bones — Bequia is all Any visitor to the annual Easter Regatta can feel it in their culture the Bequia In an effort to preserve the rich history of the island’s maritime seems like a worthy cause, but what can I do?” Here’s some awesome news: we’ve seems like a worthy cause, but what can I do?” Here’s from two generous Hands just received a US$25,000 “challenge grant” commitment in the Caribbean right supporters. Which means that the way you can help children with the aim of matching now is to make a cash donation to Hands Across the Sea, can fulfill all of the 2010 the $25,000 grant and realizing our $50,000 goal, so Hands children. Wish Lists and bring positive change to thousands of Caribbean “fishing boat”, now built about boats. The classy two-bowed, sprit-sailed Bequia for the table, is descended more for the glory of the race than to bring fish home plying the Caribbean in the from the small craft carried by the whaling schooners 19th century. some of the sea-going Heritage Foundation is building a place to store and display whaleboat, a blackfish boat, vessels that helped build this tradition. A 26-foot open These vessels rely on the and an ordinary Bequia dinghy are part of the collection. OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Playa Chikitu Inset: Theblowholeexplodes Main photo:DrinkingwaterandstoutshoesareessentialforhikingtheLagadishiTrail BONAIRE’S BONAIRE’S TREKKING TREKKING LAGADISHI

by PatrickHolian ALL PHOTOS: HOLIAN PHOTOS: ALL through thickcactusandscrub. especially inthefirstkilometrewheretrackwinds to itsname.Iguanas,whiptailsandanolesareprolific, language ofBonaire,andthis3.7-kilometretraillivesup await me.IchoosetotrektheLagadishifirst. on. TheKasikundaClimbandtheLagadishiTrailstill and dogsaren’tallowedinthepark.Butitistimetomove good reasonforthis.Iusuallyhikewithmydog,Sparky, ones areinWashington-SlagbaaiNationalPark.There’sa parakeets) and season. ThisservedasawateringholeforUndomingu’s of waterthatnaturallyaccumulateshereduringtherainy stone). Alsobuiltin1898,thiscatchmenttakesadvantage Undomingu RibaKlips(Undomingu’swellonthelime- went dryin1925duringaverylongdrought. see thebottom.Idiscoverthatallisparched.Thewell Peering intothisdeep,shadowedhole,Ifinditdifficultto Farm), ahand-dugwellexcavatedbytwofarmersin1898. Kunuku Blanku(Undomingu’swellbythecliffatWhite Lagadishi. ThefirstisPosdiUndominguNaBarbonaDi solid two-hourendeavor. Negotiating thischallengingsurfacemakesthetreka from dirtandgraveltorugged,unforgivinglimestone. present ingoodnumbers.Soonthough,thetrailchanges DEEP Lagadishi There isanotherwellalongthewaycalledPosdi There areseveralhistoricsitesalongthispartofthe meanslizardinPapiamentu,thetraditional chuchubis (tropicalmockingbirds)arealso Prikichis glaringly neglected trails onmylist.Two hiked alltheisland Bonaire, Istillhaven’t into mythirdyearon

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OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

except on Christmas and New PM to 5:00 AM Getting There Washington-Slagbaai National Park is located on At the Park Washington-Slagbaai National Park is open daily What to Bring Sunscreen, hat, hiking boots and at least one litre For divers and snorkelers who already paid the There is a small but informative museum at the the north end of the island and takes up about 17 percent of Bonaire’s landmass. The best way to get there is to rent a car or take a cab. From Kralendijk, take the road to Rincon. Bear right when entering the village and follow that road to the north edge of town. At the ‘T’, take a right and follow the green lizard signs to the park entrance. 8:00 of water per person. There is no shade on the trail. Both wind and sun are strong, so dehydration comes easily. If you like bird watching, pack binoculars. Year’s Day. The admission to the park is US$10 for adults and $5 for children younger than 12 years. Nature Fee at an in-town dive shop (divers - $25, snorkelers - $10), entrance to the park is free if you can show your Nature Fee paper receipt of payment and a picture ID. park entrance that is free for all to enjoy. There is also a gift shop that sells local souvenirs, snacks and cold drinks. Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! email: [email protected] or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 St Maarten +599 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. are looking for crew, We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: Continued from previous page …the blowholes to predict droughts and the start of the …the blowholes to predict droughts and the start of I press on along the coast to Playa Chikitu (Little Beach) on Soon I arrive at Saliña Matijs, one of a dozen saline lakes Trail Back at the car, I look at my left boot. The Lagadishi Main photo: Lizard (‘lagadishi’) markers show the way Inset: Tough on old boots! — rainy season. Thwamp! the sea where another aquatic sound dominates. The roar of and overwhelms here. Waves crash onto this fine sand beach, on the as much as I would love to jump in to cool off, I remain even cliff above. The undertow here is voracious, unfit for the simple wading. I follow the edge of the sand dunes behind white beach and above the thick stands of buttonwood and mangroves. water Bonaire. Saliñas were formed eons ago when storm these eroded deep valleys on the island. As the sea level rose, natural valleys were filled with seawater. Today, they are from catchments for rainwater, but seawater still enters shore- underground fissures. The saliñas are magnets for which birds. They also filter sediments from storm water, with benefits the island’s coral reefs. As I scan Saliña Matijs shim- my binoculars, I count more than 100 flamingos. They mer like passion-pink polka dots on the water’s surface. — There are dozens of other shorebird species here today turn- green backed herons, greater yellowlegs, and ruddy late stones to mention a few. I would like to stay, but the time to morning sun is cooking and my water is low. It is complete the trek. speak. has taken its toll. I have blown out my flip-flop, so to The bottom of my Merrill boot has separated. That limestone The is tough stuff. It is time for repair and I must do it soon. Kasikunda Climb is calling. at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue Readers! When in Grenada, pick up your free monthly copy of ): PICK UP! bold Compass Caribbean Compass ST. GEORGE’S AREA Art Fabrik Grenada Yacht Club Island Water World Marine World Port Louis Marina Tikal GRAND ANSE Carib Jet SOUTH COAST Budget Marine De Big Fish Essentials Mini-Market Grenada Marine Island View Le Phare Bleu Marina Martin’s Marina McIntyre Bros Prickly Bay Marina Spice Island Marine Turbulence Sails True Blue Bay Ahoy, appear in the Above: Playa Chikitu Below: Flamingo at Saliña Matijs OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 couldn’t waittogetasfarsouthquicklypossible. boat, the vived. ManycruiserspreferinchingtheirwaydownthroughtheBahamas,butour West pastCubatowardPuertoRico,attimeswithbrutalheadwinds,butwesur- to takethecashin100-dollarbills.Oh,howIlivedregretit! a funnylookandtoldmethat20swouldbefartoobulky,itbest my bank,Iaskedthetellertogivemecashin20-dollarbills.Thegave cards, Ialsowantedtohavesomecashonboard.Whenwithdrewthemoneyfrom or stolen,Iwouldstillhavetheothertwoatmydisposal. different banks.Naturally,mylogicconsistedofthetheorythatifonecardwaslost I needtoworry! whenever someonetellsmenottoworry,Iimmediatelyknowthat’sexactlythetime pretty muchtreatedmyconcernslikethoseofaravinglunatic.Andnaturally, on-line bankingsystemswerevirtuallyimpossibletohackinto.Infact,thebanks cards. ThebanksallassuredmethatIhadnothingtoworryabout,andtheir to thebranchmanagersbeforeIleftaboutsecurityandsafetyofmybank the trip.Inaddition,havingreadhorrorstoriesonidentitytheft,Ialsotalked up thousandsofmilesawayfromhomeandpenniless. overseas. Iknewcouldhandlethesailing,butlastthingwantedwastoend the to-dolist.OneofmymanyconcernswasthatIwouldhavemoneywhile and everytimeIturnedaround,itseemedtherewerethreeorfourmorethingson one, asanyexperiencedcruiserwilltellyou.Wespentmonthspreparingforthetrip, US whenyouareonaremoteCaribbeanisland.Letmestartfromthebeginning… to learn—suchashowlittleyoucandoifhaveaproblemwithbankinthe islands, becausemostofthepopulationisdescendedfromslaves. is thedaywhenslaveswerefreed.ThisabigholidayonallofCaribbean on theislandofGrenadaandtodayisanationalholiday,EmancipationDay,which thought ofbeforebutthatmakeperfectlygoodsense.Forexample,wearecurrently and, inlastsixmonths,IhavelearnedmanythingsabouttheCaribbeanhadnever ATM MACHINESAND FEAR OF 100-DOLLARBILLS After monthsofpreparation,wewerefinallyoffonourjourney,sailingfromKey Knowing wewouldbeonsomeveryremoteislandsthatmightnotacceptbank I havealwaysbelievedinhedgingmybets.Sogotthreedebitcardsfrom To thisend,Imadeeveryefforttosetupseveralbankcardsthatcoulduseon The processofpreparingforanextendedsailtotheCaribbeanisexhausting Now thereareotherthingsyoufindoutintheCaribbeanthatnotsointeresting In January,myboyfriendandIsetsailforourfirsttriptotheCaribbeanislands w ExclusiveLinktoYachts forSale LatestCruisingNews&Notes 100sofBoatReviews Weather Forecasts Worldwide Marine 2Free Issuesof √ √ √ √ √ √ BWS Online Resource Geronimo w Blue Water Sailing Water Blue World Cruiser’s w The World’s BestCruisingMagazine , isatwo-tonoceanracerdesignedforheavyweather,andwe ’s CruisingClassifieds ..bwsailing.co b by NanetteEldridge w s a i l i n magazine g . c o m

machines and100-dollarbills! theft again,andIhopeyouwilltoo.Inthemeantime,stillhaveafearofATM not justlayingaroundthetopofmydesk.Iammakingeveryefforttoavoididentity keep mypasswordsandallvitalbankinformationinasecureplacethatonlyIknow, software tomycomputer.Iavoidusingpubliccomputersandmakeeveryattempt often asIcan.trynottouseATMmachinesifcanavoidit.haveaddedsecurity — abargainatfivedollarsmonth.Ialsocheckmyaccountson-linedailyoras ing. OnethingInowhaveononeofmyaccountsisinsuranceagainstidentitytheft Meanwhile, youarelefttofendforyourself. However, thebankscantaketheirtimeincreditingyouraccountwithmoney. if younotifythebankimmediatelyoftheftandcompleteclaimprocess. that wastakenfrommyaccounts.Byfederallaw,themostyouareliableforis$500 correspondence withthethreeUSbanks,Ihavebeenrefundedmostofmoney Bank, whichhasbranchesonmanyoftheislands.Afterlengthyclaimformsand ing tonormal.InowhaveabankcardfromanaccountsetupinSt.LuciaatScotia straighten outthemessysituationIfoundmyselfin. I understandtheirregulations,butitwasofnoconsolationtomeastried references, whichIassumeistocurtailtheuseofmoneylaunderingbydrugdealers. banks wanttoknowtheexactsourceofyourmoneyandseeoriginalsignedbank I foundoutthatitisnoteasytoopenanaccountoutsideoftheUS.TheCaribbean account inSt.LuciasothatIcouldhavemoneywireddirectlyintomybankaccount. my parentswiremoneytomebyWesternUnion.ThenIattemptedopenabank (Eastern Caribbeandollars)andIstillhadabout50ECsleft.OnceinSt.Lucia, money totakethebus! to Euroswastakeanhour’sbusridetheairport,butIdidnotevenhave them. WewereonanchoratFortdeFrance,andtheonlywaytochangemymoney 100-dollar 100-dollar bills.IfoundoutthattherehadbeenaproblemwithcounterfeitUS matters worse,noneofthestoresonislandwouldacceptmyremaining of thethirdincident,IfoundmyselfonMartiniquewithoutanyEuros.Tomake and worse,Iwassuddenlywithoutabankcard.alsolowoncash.Atthetime — aperfectTrifectaforthecriminalwhostolemyidentity.Iwasdeeplyshocked, the Caribbean,butthiscanclearlyhappenanywhereinworld. stolen information.)Idowishsomeonehadwarnedmeaboutthisbeforewentto machine. Thenthecriminalsusedcardinformationtocreatenewcardswith machine tocopyalloftheinformationfromeverycardthatwasusedon lem intheCaribbean.(ApparentlyAntigua,someoneonceprogrammedanATM per withATMmachinesforthePINnumber.Unfortunately,thishasbecomeaprob- all theinformationtheyneedfrommagneticstripyourbankcardandtam- ers arelesslikelytofrequentlymonitortheirbankbalance.Theycanapparentlyget the Caribbean. world. Inmycase,manyofthechargesweremadeinAmsterdam—whileIwas information, theycanuseittomakechargesonyourcardfromanywhereinthe ers used.Ionlyknowthatthesecriminalsareveryclever,andoncetheygetyour some on-lineresearch,Istilldonotknowthespecificmethodsthesecomputerhack- I becomeavictimofidentitytheft?Andwhenwoulditend? had itinmywallet.Ikeptaskingmyself,howcouldsomeonedothistome?Howdid amount ofmoneyinthataccount.Andyetthecardwasnotphysicallystolen;Istill cated tomethatthecriminalnotonlyknewmyaccountnumberbutalsoexact fraudulent chargeshadoccurred,virtuallycleaningouttheaccount—whichindi- I did!Twoweekslater,aroutinecheckonanotherbankaccountshowedthatnew my bankaccountson-linedaily,orasoftenIcouldwhileatsea.Thankgoodness gratulated myselfthatIstillhadtwobankcardstouse. missing card.AsupsetasIwasabouthavingabankcardstolen,nonethelesscon- line, andnaturallytherewerealreadyseverallargefraudulentpurchasesonthe immediately calledthebankandcancelledcard.Ialsocheckedmyaccounton- arrival inAntigua,Idiscoveredoneofmydebitcardswasmissingfromwallet. a smallamountofcashfromonemythreeaccounts.Severaldayslater,upon forced towithdrawsomefromanATM.ThisoccurredonSt.MartinandIwithdrew this time—suchwasmyparanoiaaboutATM’singeneralpriortothetrip. as possible.PleasenotethatIdidnotuseanyATMmachinesonthetripupuntil using mydebitcardstopayforfuel,foodandmarinas,conservingcashasmuch to islandandenjoyingeverydayasanewadventure.Throughoutthistime,Iwas this wasmyfirstlongtripintheCaribbean,itfeltlikesheerblisssailingfromisland Caribbean —andIfeelblessedtohavethat privilege.” the wayofagalley.Butthatissmall pricetopayinordersailaroundthe lot ofadjustmentsmade,althoughIhave neverquiteadjustedtonothavingmuchin lived onuntilweboughttheboattwoyears ago—andbelieveme,therehavebeena a 42-footcustom-built,Peterson-designed oceanracer.Nanettesays,“Shewasnever Hopefully, youwilllearnfrommymistakesandtakesomeprecautionswhencruis- It hasnowbeenseveralmonthssincetheproblembegan,andlifeisslowlyreturn- Consequently, wesailedtothenextisland,St.Lucia,becausetheyusedECs In mycase,acoupleofweekswentbyandthirdbankcardwashackedinto These hackersapparentlypreyoncruisersandothertourists,knowingthattravel- After cancelingthesecondcard,andaftermanydiscussionswithbank However, theflamesofparanoiahadonceagainbeenignitedandIbeganchecking However, afteraboutfourmonths,Ihadexhaustedmostofmycashandwas We eventuallymadeourwaytothelovelyBVIintimeforSpringRegatta.As Nanette EldridgeandBrunoBruchhofare cruisingtheCaribbeanaboard bills acoupleofyearsago,andmanytheislandsstilldonotaccept Geronimo , OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

mosquito mosquito Aedes aegypti Aedes aegypti The virus is contracted from the the The virus is contracted from Web articles stated that fever and Web articles stated that fever and bite of an that has previously bitten an infect- ed person. On the web, I read that the incubation period ranges from three to 15 (usually five to eight) days before symptoms appear. Dengue starts with chills, head- ache, pain upon moving the eyes, and low backache. Painful aching in the legs and joints occurs during the first hours of illness. The tem- perature rises quickly to as high as 104° F (40° C), with relative low heart rate and low blood pressure. The eyes become reddened. A flush- ing or pale pink rash comes over the face and then disappears. The lymph nodes in the neck and groin are often swollen. other signs of dengue last for two to four days, followed by a rapid drop in temperature with profuse sweat- ing. This precedes a period with normal temperature and a sense of wellbeing that lasts about a day. A , their Hunter 46, in the Virgin Islands. Soon after being back dockside in Puerto Rico I felt Soon after being back dockside Another web source reports that most people with Recently in San Juan, Puerto Rico’s health secre- MedicineNet.com reports that the The internet is a great source of information on den- Whether I contracted dengue in Puerto Rico or the US I am feeling much better now; the rash has disap- Angela Cordts and her husband, Tim, live aboard Palominos, a lovely island leased by a Puerto Rican Palominos, a lovely island usual dock. resort, we headed back to our starting to fade, along with a little better. The rash was told my Puerto Rican friend the rest of the symptoms. I been and showed her the Nilda about how sick I had knew exactly what I had. remains of my rash. She caused by a family of Dengue fever: a nasty disease by mosquitoes. viruses that are transmitted second rapid rise in temperature follows. A charac- teristic rash appears along with the fever and spreads from the extremities to cover the entire body except the face. The palms and soles may be bright red and swollen. dengue fever recover in about two weeks to a month by getting plenty of rest, increasing fluid intake and tak- ing acetaminophen (Tylenol) for fever and body aches. Local friends mentioned that you should not take aspi- rin or medications that contain aspirin with dengue because it increases the risk of severe bleeding. Information on the web agrees, stating that hospital- ization and intensive care is required for people who develop the life-threatening complications of dengue hemorrhagic fever. tary, Lorenzo Gonzalez Feliciano, warned that the island could face its worst outbreak of dengue fever ever unless people eradicate bug-breeding areas. The warning was issued after a 37-year-old woman from the northern town of Hatillo died of the hemorrhagic form of the tropical virus. Her death was the third fatality from dengue fever this year on the island. Besides attacking mosquito-breeding areas, officials are urging people to sleep under mosquito nets and wear repellent. Trucks are already being sent around to spray a mosquito-killing mist and residents are being urged to report neighbors who leave stagnant water on their property. mosquito is a daytime biter with peak periods of biting around sunrise and sunset. It may bite at any time of the day and is often hidden inside buildings, espe- cially in urban areas. There is currently no vaccine available for dengue fever. gue, however, it is highly recommended that anyone who believes they may have contracted the virus should check with a doctor as soon as possible. or British Virgin Islands remains a mystery, as we trav- eled through each of these areas immediately prior to my illness and the incubation period is fairly wide ranging. peared, together with all other symptoms. It’s amazing how good it feels to feel well again! Spirit

HUGH O’BRIEN Top right: The author — well again! sailing in the Virgin Islands Spirit The next day we visited Punta Arenas and then We set off back to Puerto Rico and I dragged myself to Puerto Rico and I dragged We set off back symptoms from his cold but my Tim soon recovered Above: Pretty Palominos Island in the Spanish Virgins Left: Before the bout — Tim, Kate, Kypfer, Angela, Bill and Ed Below: ed a toss-up between scarlet fever and chicken pox. Isabel Segunda, which turned out to be a most uncom- fortable anchorage for the night. This did not help my general feeling of misery. After another overnight at and I had little appetite. and I had little by way of assist Tim on deck. We went from my bed to exploration of the Bioluminescent Vieques for some spent the night in Esperanza. Bay area and getting betteron and on. I thought I was seemed to go from toes a red rash covering my body when I noticed out the had me worried and I checked to neck! This illnesses with studying the different medical books, Self-diagnosis suggest- similar symptoms and rashes. , has always Spirit for dinner aboard. Spirit the next morning. Later we sailed to Rhone

been a source of great pleasure for my hus- of great pleasure for my been a source last me, especially during the band, Tim, and ailing in the Virgin Islands on our 46-foot Virgin Islands on our 46-foot ailing in the sailboat, custom Hunter

Back in St. Thomas we were sad to say goodbye to But during the last couple of days of the family visit Soon it was time to turn around and head back Early the next morning we headed for Norman The next morning we set out for to Prior to the family visit we had been dockside in The next morning had us sailing off to Cooper Island

S A Bout (of) Dengue Fever (of) Dengue A Bout by Angela Cordts the family. Tim ferried them and their bags ashore and saw them safely on their planes back to Texas. Meanwhile my cold seemed to be morphing into a nasty flu-like virus. I had terrible headaches (normally I am not subject to headaches at all): a strong pain behind my eyes, which had me taking Alka-Seltzer plus cold medicine to help me sleep. I also had pain in my neck, shoulders and back so bad I took Motrin to try to ease it. My joints ached and that together with the head, eyes, neck, shoulders and backache had me mostly staying in bed. Glands in my neck were swollen I began to feel as if I had a very bad cold. Sore throat, aches and pains together with coughing and general weakness soon had me heading to my bed at the earli- est opportunity. It took a few days before Tim caught my cold and he did not appear to suffer quite as badly. towards the US Virgin Islands — the family only had one week to sail with us before heading back to the States. Sounds like an idyllic time aboard, right? Bellamy Cay on for the full moon party and enjoyed the delicious buffet ashore. The flame throw- ers and Moko Jumbie acts were a pleasure to watch as Aragorn’s fireballs lit up the sky. Next day we visited the Baths on and everyone enjoyed their trek through the age-old boulders, the beautiful warm waters and golden sand. Island. After a lively sail in squally conditions we Island. After a lively sail in squally conditions we picked up a mooring and rendezvoused with the high- ly recommended dive company, Sail Caribbean Divers. Both Ed and Kypfer enjoyed their dive and everyone was impressed with the dive company. Later we explored the local restaurant Pirates, then took a din- ghy ride over to the caves where we discovered some treasure before returning to visit the world-famous Foxy’s, the Soggy Dollar Bar visit the world-famous Foxy’s, the Soggy Dollar Bar and Sydney’s Peace & Love. Skies were grey with light rain but the fair-skinned, heavily sunscreen-coated family members didn’t mind one bit. southeastern Puerto Rico, where we generally spend southeastern Puerto Rico, where we generally spend the hot summer months. We sailed back to St. Thomas with a few days to spare before the family arrived. where our budding divers had another rendezvous with the dive company. The guys found the diving most enjoyable and were able to squeeze in an extra dive on the week of June this year when we received a visit from this year when we received week of June Kypfer Our 17-year-old nephew Texas family members. as open- Ed had been recently certified and our cousin some exciting were looking forward to water divers and Kate and Sister and brother-in-law rendezvous diving. warmly wel- out the group and were all Bill rounded Marina in St. Thomas. comed aboard at Crown Bay OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 think not.Yourbestsafehouseis Part 2 suppose hemightrentitforafewdays?” much ofthemindasbody. encounter withthepirates.Doeshisboatfititscomputermodel? clean shavenandapipesmoker?”Thatfromanartist’srenderingofSailorman’s years old?IsheAquariusorPisces?”ThatisSailorman’scomputermodel.“Is to shout,“IsIanbetween5’81/2”and5’11”tall,153178pounds,4357 Bush, oneofSailorman’sfriendssaidanamethatsoundedlike deck andSamanthareachesforarag. Has ajunglehammockfornights.Maybethenameofhisboatsaysit: the trees”.SheandPeggymethimwhilerowingmanycreeksofShekimaCreek. tucks hisboatintoremotecornersoftheCreekwhenhere.Seldomaboard,“livesin mentions Ian,whoisalonerevenbyCreekstandards.Hardtotellifhe’shereorgone, samples Samantha’slaissez-fairinterpretationofShekimaCreeksociety. a bigshade,isthelivingroom.Theretheyspendmorningtalking,andSarah — whatacontrast!Samanthakeepsbeautifulhomebelow,butthecockpit,under a WaterRat. comes toherfromchildhood,alongwithavaguememoryofSeaRatmesmerizing mockingbird starts,anddriftsuntilitisfinished.“Messingaboutinboats.”Theline Creek’s northshore,comesasingle“peep”.Sarahshipsheroarswhentropical off, aboutusingthedinghy.Hegrumblessomethingandrollsover. fairly shy.HeandIanarefriends.‘Gollum’becausehe’sshort,skinny,dark, SARAH’S SEARCH “Prettyroughaboard Refreshed andbackaboard,Sarahasks,“IfIandoesn’tstayonhisboat,doyou Diving intotropicalwatersfromayachtistobeexperienced,notdescribed.It’sas “You okay?Touchofheatexhaustion?Timeforaswimanyway.” Jackpot! Sarahisnumb. Samantha nods. “White hull?” “Possible.It’saJ/30...”seeingSarah’sblanklook,“a30-footgo-fastersloop.” “Uh, yousayhecomesandgoes,mightIhaveseenhisboatatQuiaquia?” Bill’s BloghadcalledSailorman’sboat Sarah’s cupslipsfromherhand.“Oh!”sheexclaimsasdrinkspreadsonthe “Spends histimeclimbingaroundthecraterorcrawlingthroughmangroves. “In thetrees?” Samantha expandsonnamesBarmentioned,addsafew,then,asanafterthought, Lotus Sarah quicklydoeshermorningchores,thencallsdowntoTom,whoissleepingit “Sorry —slip.Winston.KindofalocalversionIan,onlynoboat.Greatguy, “Gollum?” isonlythesecondyachtSarahhaseverbeenaboard,after Enterprise by JimHutchinson Lotus ? I’llaskGollumifIan’shere,andwhere.ButI .” Gonads

. Intherecording,VoicesFrom HUTCHINSON towering aboveShekima ing overthewallsofrock the skyfromaspecksoar- through theleaves.Highin perceptible rustleofbreeze of apigeon,andnearly a heron,orthrashingflight is theoccasionalsquawkof that wassterile.Herethere she heardsuchquiet,but Only duringablackouthas ness ofamangrovecreek. gentle breeze,inthestill- tropical morningwitha in asmallboat,bright rience thatslowsher,alone getting better;itistheexpe- is okaywiththerowingand Lotus The quarterhourrowto CARIBBEAN COMPASSFICTION takesanhour.Sarah Nomad . Sarahwants Go Mad Enterprise .”

both ofthem,andtheytaketheirbottlesbeyondthepilerocksonbeach. few whocanholdtheirownwithTom.Barsooninvokesthehundred-metreruleon done! Sarahofferstoleave,sohecanfindbettercrew. point. Hermorningofpeaceandquietisover.Butwhataithasbeen! Sarah’s heartraces. hundred percent.Don’tknowIanwellenoughtosay,he’skindofaphantom.” and livesintheshadows.Butafriend,notfoe.Inmyexperience,Winstonis asleep whenPeggycomesby. the morning. indicates thepilethatTheEndofBeachleansinto. “So, Sarah,”Barsaysnowthattheycantalk,“howislifeaboardthe That eveningatTheEndoftheBeach,Irene Tom isCaptainBligh.He’smadehisownbreakfast!Andship’sworkisn’tgetting It isalovelyrowback...untilshehearsTom’svoiceroaringfromaroundthelast “ “Care forarideashore?”sheasks,“I’mtakingsomestuffintoBar.” In themorningsheismarvelingatpeacefulnessofhersurroundingswithTom Back aboard,beforepassingout,Tomordersthatsheisnottotakethedinghyin “Helps ifyou’redrunk—sandflies.There’sabetterplaceupintherocks,”he “No.” “Ever sleeponthebeach?” “Maybe.” “Got aplacetogo?” “Yes. Soon,” “Gonna jumpship?” “Hell.” “Sounds goodtome,”Sarahanswersassheclimbsovertherail. “ “Give meaminute,”Sarahresponds,andducksbelowtogetherstuff. “ “Crew alwaysgetsSundayoffinport,Swift!”Peggyshoutsback.“Youknowthat!”

She ain’tgoingnowhere!” You leavenow,you’rethroughonthe She’s restrictedtotheship!” Tomroarsfromthecompanionway. Enterprise Jezebel !”

shows up. She is one of very showsup.Sheisoneofvery BELA ALMEIDA BELA —Continued onnextpage and That iswhy Creek isn’tforeveryone. another —Shekima yacht hastolisten ed ambianceisthatno ing VHFnet!Theaccept- There’s notevenamorn- ering overtheCreek. by thecraterwallstow- much ofthatisblocked satellite workhere,and cable. Onlyradioand to warrantanundersea cally importantenough politically oreconomi- population becomes until itshundred-odd is entirelyoffthegrid up tunes.GreatIguana tones orWindowsstart- also notheardanyring – nogasoline.Wehave are nocarsontheisland that isbecausethere Shekima Creek.Inpart, seems torowon roar. escape thefollowing Sailorman’s hideout. has foundherwayinto peacefulness, butthatshe just bythebeautyand opposite sides,atthat. in ReachBay,andon quarantined asitwere, Notice thateverybody Peggy pullshardto Sarah is enchanted. Not Sarah isenchanted.Not Jezebel Enterprise arealone, Enterprise ?”

OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 . Winston . Winston . Samantha . Samantha Lotus Go Mad come out of curiosity come out of curiosity Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware has , Ian insists, has to be ready , Ian insists, has Go Mad e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear is possible, but not advised — she can stay aboard is possible, but not advised Ian, all business until now, sits down beside Sarah, takes her hand, and looks long Ian, all business until now, sits down beside Sarah, takes Sailorman’s extreme secrecy Thus begins the story of Ian and Sarah. Because of Relaxed and fed, the talk wanders to mangrove crawling, which is useful to sailors crawling, which is useful the talk wanders to mangrove Relaxed and fed, scaring the I’m too clumsy, always expert,” Ian explains. “Says “Winston’s the Sarah,” Peggy says, “want to see? But we move “It’s an interesting environment, mangroves, Winston springs from the rail and disap- As Ian pulls the bow into the herself and scared — it is a serious wound. “Yes,” Sarah is both angry with and below, puts her on the bunk, and goes to work. Ian quickly carries her aft The island has a clinic and a nurse; the doctor Then the decision, what next. Left: Winston eating oysters Below: Ian pulls the bow into the mangroves and Sarah lay out the fare. “Plus, I haven’t seen you for quite a while. How you been? seen you for quite a while. out the fare. “Plus, I haven’t and Sarah lay In truth, Peggy good.” Sarah thinks so too. You’re looking decides to stay with her. Peggy goes for what they’ll need from decides to stay with her. Peggy goes for what they’ll watches quietly. smile is weak, but her heart into her eyes. “Sorry about the pain,” he says softly. Her is glad. she confirms whether Ian and Sarah’s resolve to honor it, it will be some time before matter. is, in fact, the superhero she sought. By then, it won’t — even with Ian living in the trees, she doesn’t think he’ll want Sarah staying on his think he’ll want Sarah living in the trees, she doesn’t — even with Ian said. goes, though all pleasantly boat. And so it when he goes mad. Sarah clearly understands — a hero is always on call. Sarah — a hero is always mad. Sarah clearly understands when he goes her too much. is trying not to stare at fancies that Ian travel. and Winston it is a way of in for a storm. But for Ian for tying boats he finds me.” birds. That’s how at a rate of knots, we mortals do furlongs per fortnight. slow. These monkeys travel stop on ant trails! May we, Ian?” Slow and easy — but don’t climbs into the trees, slow, careful, but competent. Sarah pears into the trees. Peggy into too low on a root, where it is wet. Her leg slips down follows carefully, but steps the grabs her, lifts her aboard, and quickly inspects the oysters. Ian sees it happen, a it with his hand to slow the bleeding. “I’m not long gash in her calf. He clamps is deep. It must be cleaned and stitched. It will hurt doctor,” he says. “The wound do it?” like hell. Do you want me to she answers. Ian resists the searing pain as best she can. By the time Samantha comforts, Sarah taking effect. Peggy, intently watching, says, “You’ve is finished, the pain pills are done this before.” Ian nods. on mail boat. Infection is Ian’s concern. He starts her makes a monthly visit on the to an eye on her for several days. A dinghy trip back antibiotics and wants to keep Lotus . can Fax: (758) 452 0311 Trident z Lotus FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR and Shekima Creek. Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils ” Bar gives her a strange look. ” Bar gives her

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Continued from previous page Continued from Peggy lets Sarah row back to This brings more thrills to Sarah. Secrecy is Sailorman’s trademark. Apparently This brings more thrills to Sarah. Secrecy is Sailorman’s “I came out of curiosity,” Ian replies. “Is that why you’re here?” “Got a friend in need, thought you might like to help,” Peggy answers as Samantha Winston is known to come out of the trees for an occasional meal in good company. Winston is known to come out of the trees for an occasional “Glad we could tempt you with a feast,” Peggy says. “All Sam’s work, of course. It is an excellent session of messing about in boats. Peggy expertly rows them It is an excellent session of messing about in boats. matches the robust end Sarah’s heart races as Ian invites them aboard. Ian nicely They have a swim. As they dress, Peggy comments on Sarah’s cute bikini. They have a swim. As they dress, Peggy comments Samantha reports she saw Winston having breakfast at the edge of the mangroves, Samantha reports she saw Winston having breakfast at “Ian and a woman? He comes and goes. Maybe he has a girl in every port, and “Ian and a woman? He comes and goes. Maybe he has “Oh, that’s nice,” Peggy assures her. “Sam and I have stayed there. And and I have stayed there. Peggy assures her. “Sam “Oh, that’s nice,” Peggy hands over the stuff she packed back from Hard Bargain. Then Sarah’s new from Hard Bargain. Then the stuff she packed back Peggy hands over She would be showing symptoms of cyber-withdrawal except that everything she except that showing symptoms of cyber-withdrawal She would be

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

even Bar doesn’t know. And Sarah, doubtless the web’s leading expert on Sailorman, even Bar doesn’t know. And Sarah, doubtless the web’s must not breath a hint of what she knows. Could be Jack the Ripper. I know less about Ian than anyone on the Creek.” Could be Jack the Ripper. I know less about Ian than that she presumes normalbeginning to be in shape, and is eagerly learning the lifestyle to yachting — her entire experience so far being the Ian is not. Yet both are aboard Ought to be delicious!” through a maze of basins and creeks, some so narrow that she sculls with an oar in through a maze of basins and creeks, some so narrow her how. the transom notch. Seeing Sarah’s interest, Peggy shows interpretation, which shows of Sailorman’s computer model, plus her favorite artist’s it. him clean-shaven. If he smokes a pipe, that will clinch Samantha comments on her beautiful wrap. Neither is quite sure what to say when Samantha comments on her beautiful wrap. Neither is Sarah adds a touch of makeup. eating oysters off the roots. She swam over to ask about Ian and whether he thought eating oysters off the roots. She swam over to ask about a Sunday outing. Winston, Ian would meet them at his boat if they brought lunch, guess the answer. They too, of course. Winston said he could find Ian, but couldn’t could take a chance. Samantha has everything prepared. comes here to recover. Maybe he’s a monk. Or hangs out with the guys on comes here to recover. Maybe he’s a monk. Or hangs put you up for a while, until we ask Ian about a while, until we ask Ian about put you up for Peggy asks. “Think Ian may be a problem?” freedom is discussed. Bar mentions the nest up in the rocks behind The End of the nest up in the rocks behind Bar mentions the freedom is discussed. Beach again. would seek on-line is being found in Shekima Creek. Blogs speculating on Shekima Creek. Blogs speculating is being found in Shekima would seek on-line sense is more or Bali Hai. Sarah’s to legendary Shangri-La, Brigadoon, Creek liken it she hopes to meet Peter Pan. Never Never Land, where like Wendy in — OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Take thehelmandnavigateforlove. as aninvestmentinthefuture. contacts andtakeanyfreshopportunitiesthatareoffered you putonyourselfandhavefun! and others,abreakfromtheusualshipboardpressures salty celebration. Halloween andinviteallyourfriendsintheharbortoa reprieve fromday-to-dayfrustrations. good progressifyoustayoncourse. in thecreativeareasofyourboatinglife.Youwillmake from thetribulationsofboatlife! always turns. shipmates willholdupprojects.Hanginthere;thetide during thefirsttwoweeks,andalackofco-operationwith right oncourseforacoupleofmonths,soenjoyit. been encouragedtoattempt. putes withshipmates,orstartwritingthatbookyou’ve this fairbreezetofurtheryourbusiness,settleanydis- head youtowardtherocks. your hullwithbarnaclesandattheendofmonthwill off, andletboatspeeddoitsstuff! your headwayincreativeefforts.Easethemainsheet,bear Life willleadyouonaromanticcourseinthefirstweek. Creativity willbeunderfullsail.Makenewcruising You tooshouldhaveastress-freemonth.Giveyourself, You willhaveaneasy-goingmonth.Planapartyfor It’s stillloveandlustaboardthe“loveboat”a This willbeagoodmonthforanyintellectualpursuits This monthisaspectfree—aoff,sotospeak, Rough seasinyourlovelifewillmakeforabumpyride Although you’reinironswithcreativity,romancewillbe Your creativityandverbalacumenarefreeflowing.Use Concentrate oneverythingbutromance,whichcovers The choppyseasofminormisunderstandingswillslow OCTOBER 2010 WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) DON’T LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

THE SEA Persuading meit’s timetotry, God’s Peace andLove! And take methere way, way uphigh, Will tellmethatmaybe Ishould have comeabove, Perhaps thenangels, kindandgood I’ll endinDavy Jones’s locker, andthere I’llbe Till insomestorm, awild, madshocker Its challenge, pleasures, boredoms, strength, willcalltome The seafor allitsbreadth andlength From long-abandonedgardens lent anadded thrill. And thenintoxicating scent As iftheHeavens hadarranged thewelcoming chill Quite suddenly theairwaschanged, Obligingly itpulledusthrough. A ‘Welcome back!’ A moonlitBocacameinview, With nothingtoprovoke alarm, whentideswere slack There wasanothernightofcalm No stormstotearthepeaceasunder, God’s awesome power A nightthatwassofullofwonder, Making astrangeandhissingsound, ameteorshower Once itseemedthestarsflew down, To rest withintheoceannow, Venus andMars, Looking asifthey fell somehow, With calm, darkseaandgentlelightsfrom myriad stars? Is itperhaps thosemagicnights And Iaskwhy amIafloat? And heartheskippercurse! When vomit risesinmy throat Those prophets tolooklike start fools andwaves are wildorworse. When Poseidon hisrule asserts On whatshallbeonanamedday, butthenthey are restricted. The weather prophets have theirsay The seaiswell behaved, ohno!Ordoeswhatispredicted. It’s nottosay thatwhenIgo To tellmeIcannotremain, thentugsmeeastorwest. Before theoceancallsagain, But lookonitasoneoffew harborswhere Imay rest, I like my home, Ireally do At home, atpeaceandhappily canfacethedaily grind? When othersseemcontenttobe What force tugssorelentlessly inmy subconsciousmind? What callsmetogo backtosea?

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OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Bonny clung to Aunty in terror but the old Aunty in terror but the old Bonny clung to the villagers You can imagine how vexed Aunty The villagers arrived outside lady was stubborn and she shouted, “No big and she shouted, “No lady was stubborn to scare me and if I want beast is going in my window on All Souls candles burning night, I’ll have candles burning!” the dark and were to find themselves in Sewell. They they at once blamed Aunty and torch- got together with their lanterns old woman’s lights and marched to the repent and go cottage to demand that she like every- to church on All Souls morning candles like one else and to stop lighting an ignorant heathen. was relighting Sewell’s door as the old lady could do any- the candles. But before they upon other lost thing, the lost soul called upon Aunty souls and they flew down the villagers Sewell’s cottage, pushing aside and snarling with vaporous arms, hissing Word Search Puzzle solution on page 34 Poor little Bonny screamed, but the old lady held her tight to her Poor little Bonny screamed, cast Aunty The next morning, the villagers demanded that the burning on All Did Aunty Sewell repent? She still keeps her candles THE END like demons. Everyone took to their heels and ran for their lives, not like demons. Everyone took the sanctuary of the church. stopping until they reached terrible ghosts. breast and steeled herself to stand against the through the Determined to bend the old lady to their will, they flew blue and widow one after the other and clad themselves in dazzling to heaven and green sparks as they howled, raising glowing red eyes Sewell, shak- flinging out their quivering arms in supplication. Aunty creatures and ing all over, forced herself to stand against these terrible the souls, knowing they had lost the battle of wills, departed. Sewell has Sewell from the church, but he refused saying, “Aunty respect. Let us proved herself a lady of great courage and deserving of where we will all pray that she will repent and return to the church receive her with great rejoicing.” morning and Souls night, but now Bonny goes to church on All Souls stays with friends in the village on All Souls night. CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING a Modern a Modern Caribbean Folktale Caribbean In a small village at the edge of the rainforest on a mountainous In a small village at the edge and no matter Now Aunty had her little niece Bonny living with her and blew outWell, one year a lost soul decided to put an end to all this Caribbean island, Aunty Sewell was known as an eccentric old lady Caribbean island, Aunty Sewell For instance, Aunty couldn’t abide who kept her own traditions. more devilish than holy, so she ignored Halloween, thinking it was brightly in Halloween. But two days later she kept candles burning on All Souls her window. Everyone else in the village went to church and friends, morning to pray for the souls of their departed relatives on the night of but it was unheard of to burn candles in the window All Souls. Halloween with how much Bonny pleaded to go trick-or-treating on matters worse all the other kids she was not allowed — and to make on the night she had to help her aunty keep all those candles alight of All Souls. them out so shethe candles! Aunty thought a stray breeze had blown were blownand Bonny lit them all over again. Once more the candles By now the lostout and for the second time Aunty and Bonny relit them. beast andsoul was getting angry so it blew itself up into a great snarling out whilewith a huff and a puff and a mighty roar blew all the candles leaving everyoneat the same time shutting off the lights in the village, including Aunty and Bonny in the pitch blackness. All Souls Nightmare — — Nightmare Souls All Who brought breadfruit to the Caribbean? Captain Bligh, of Bounty fame! Who brought breadfruit to the Caribbean? Bounty word search puzzle by Pauline Dolinski. Have fun with this Mutiny on the Kessell Lee by OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Sublime World Characters ina Wacky Banana’, ispickedupbytheolderstaff,anditfollowswaiterforrestofhis The centralironyisthatthewhiteman’suniquenicknameforhisyoungwaiter,‘New per thanothertourists)andalocalwaiterovertheir20-something-yearrelationship. mixed feelingsandmisunderstandingsbetweenarepeattourist(whofeelshe’ship- only itsnature. wealthy mancouldbribeofficialswithnoproblem.Thecorruptiondoesn’tchange, bribery intheeraofsocialism,anditstitlereferstogoodolddayswhena her. ‘TheHappyDaysofDogEatDog’isanamusingstoryclass,privilege,and matron livingintheStatesishauntedbyideaofanavengingdogcomingafter is consumedbytheideathatherbottomtoofat,andinanotherstoryawealthy Fish’), ofwritingletterstoacow,andshootingpoortomatothiefdead.Awoman to thehypocrisyofmiddleclassJamaicans. takes adimviewoftheirharmlessbedtimehabit,and‘ASigntheTimes’isanode is ahilariousexaminationofonecouple’sreligiousfaithwhentheirCatholicpriest It isnottheonlywistfulstory,butbyfarbook’smostserious.‘Unconventionality’ in thememoryofprotagonist’syouthfulindiscretionsandshatteredinnocence. both wittyobserverandcomicfoil. church. Thereareseverallevelsofsatireworkinghere,asthecluelesspolicemanis that hasgatheredtogawkatthedeadman,resultingintheirburninganearby the male“tourist”leadsalivelytheologicaldiscussionwithincredulouscrowd bizarre incidentshewitnesses.Afterbeingstruckbyatruckandcomingbacktolife, the bewilderedjuniorconstablewhohaswrittenadetailedPreliminaryReportof wonder aboutthebubblesweinhabit. his charactersforthereadertosavor,attimesemployingmagicrealismmakeus living intheUSA.Winkleroffersussuperstitions,dreams,fears,andfoiblesof Jamaicans fromallwalksoflife,thepoorest“Butus”toprosperousemigrants wacky characters,wholiveinasublimeworldoftheirown.Thestoriesencompass piece, therearequiteafewthatstaywiththereaderduetoWinkler’svivid,often film everproducedintheWestIndies.Thoughthesestoriesfallshortofthatmaster- I sawthefilmversionofhisearliernovel, amuse anddelightthereader.ThisisfirstbookIhaveseenofhisinprintsince Caribbean Writers,©2004,166pages.ISBN140502639 The AnnihilationofFishandOtherStories One ofmyfavoritestories,called‘NewBanana’,examinesinexquisitedetailthe There arestoriesofmenphysicallywrestlingwiththeDevil(‘TheAnnihilation The nextselection,‘TheStoryoftheFifthBoy’,isasoberingtragedythatunfolds The openingstoryisarompabout“tourist”couplewhoturnouttobealiens,and Author AnthonyWinklerhaswritten20storiesinthisslimpaperbackwhichwill over 800pounds(395kg).Itgrowstoalengthofabout35feet(1.5metres). pounds (200kg)whenfullygrownalthoughthelargestoneonrecordweighed seagrass. Whatisit? example? We’llmakealist. and algae. adult Greenturtleistheonlythataherbivore,feedingonseagrass crabs andjellyfish,butwhentheygrowturntomarinevegetation.The shell isgreenishincolour.Babyturtlesdoeatsmallmarinecreaturessuchas darker yellowthanaGreenturtle’s. ping vertebralscutes. tail (vertebralscutes).Thehawksbillshell isdarkerincolourandhasoverlap- five approximatelyhexagonalscutesdown thecentreofshellfromneckto colour. Thesectionsofaturtleshellare called This istheGreenturtle( Of allthehard-shelledmarineturtles,thisislargest.Itaverages440 L UNTERG Unscramble thelettersbelowtofindaseacreaturewhosefavouritefoodis • TheGreenturtle’sshell( How canyoutellthedifferencebetween a Greenturtleandhawksbill,for • Theundersideoftheturtleiscalled DEEP SECRETS

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The Duppy BRUCKNER/NOOA . Thetitle The OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

FIGURE 2 Burford Books, ©2007. Zar-Par The Why Book of Sailing, Dominican Republic Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica,

www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com ! There is currently no known force for such acceleration and the name ! There is currently no known force for such acceleration M October 19th at 18:45 hours: Moon, Jupiter and two northbound October 19th at 18:45 hours: Moon, Jupiter and two northbound Iridium satellites, as will be seen from Grenada Marina Compliments of Coming soon… in 2012… the Transit of Venus! in 2012… the Transit Coming soon… of a planet term but rather the geometry is not a grammar An inferior conjunction in establishing a measur- Historically, transits of Venus have had great importance To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck 1920s we have put together Since Hubble’s observation of receding galaxies in the Got a question for “Captain Science”? E-mail Scott at [email protected]. Scott Welty is the author of FREE CRUISING GUIDES ing. If you know how far apart you are and at what angles you see something you and at what angles you see how far apart you are ing. If you know is how we first how far away it is. This the triangle’ and calculate can ‘complete planets. such as the moon, sun, and distances to nearby things measured the when the For example, new moon happens the Earth and the sun. passing between and Due to the relative tilts of the orbits of the Earth moon is in inferior conjunction. either below or above the sun at inferior conjunctionVenus, we typically see Venus eclipses, the Earth, Venus and(below on the 28th). But sometimes, just as with solar face of the sun over the coursesun truly line up and you can see Venus move across the The next one happensof several hours — but not this year and not this conjunction. A transit of Venus occursin 2012, but I’ll mention here the weirdness of the pattern. of transits occur separated byin an overall pattern that repeats every 243 years. Pairs years. We had the first of theeight years with long gaps on either side of 121 and 105 it won’t be until 2117! As forshort pair in 2004 so the next one is 2012 but after that Hawaii or Alaska to see it inthe 2012 (June 5th – 6th) transit, you’ll need to be around I’d mention it now!its entirety. Since we mainly travel by sailboat I thought globe marking the start of the ing stick for the solar system with people around the I mentioned above, accu- transit from their location. Via that triangulation method The 1769 transit was rate distances to the sun and Venus could be established. a Point Venus on that island. observed by Captain Cook in Tahiti and there is still by Mason and Dixon at the Excellent observations of this transit were also made surveyed the early US and Cape of Good Hope. Yes, these are the same guys who soldiers could accu- established the Mason-Dixon line so Union and Confederate rately fight a civil war 100 years later. the Big Bang 13.7 billion a solid model of an expanding universe that began with gravity is only an attractive years ago. Our basic physics would tell us that, since to their mutual attraction. force, the receding galaxies should be slowing down due idea. Now we are pretty darn Observations from 1998 however contradict this basic other and that they are also sure that the galaxies are indeed moving away from each accelerating been given to it. Experiments Dark Energy (okay, that should be a comic book!) has Maybe if they find it and are underway to search for the source of this Dark Energy. the wine! bottle it we can use it on our solar panels at night? Pass

FIGURE 1 THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN by Scott Welty

October 9th: Venus, Mars and crescent moon set together October 9th: Venus, Mars and crescent moon set together at approximately1830 hours Satellite Spotting the moon at 1845 hours you Special treat on the 19th! If you can spot Jupiter and 22nd - Full Moon 28th - Venus inferior conjunction (see below) Sky Events This Month 7th - New Moon moon set together at about 1830 hours (see Figure 1) 9th - Venus, Mars and crescent the big gibbous moon, plus satellites! (see below) 19th - Jupiter right under shower. Meteors will appear to be emanating from 21st - peak of Orionids meteor EARTH - Has not returned my calls. EARTH - Has not returned hours all month. MARS - Setting at about 1900 sunset. Yep, it’s the bright one! JUPITER - Up in the east after morning between 0500 and 0600 hours all month SATURN - Rising in the early The Planets in October sun all month MERCURY - Too close to the Mars at about 1900 hours early in the month, and VENUS - Setting along with THE SKY IN OCTOBER SKY IN THE should also notice two satellites heading north. Those are a pair of the Iridium satel- should also notice two satellites heading north. Those near Grenada (see Figure lites. The upper one may go behind Jupiter if you’re down Antigua the upper satellite 2, which shows the view from Grenada). If you’re up near fast! They’ll come up in the will pass between the moon and Jupiter. They travel by 1850 hours! The fact southeast around 1840 hours and be off far to the north you are is simple survey- that the apparent position of these guys depends on where near the constellation Orion. At this peak time you may see between 20 and 40 At this peak time you may see between 20 and near the constellation Orion. hour. meteors (shooting stars) per in Virgo then earlier and earlier. Not visible later in the month as it heads toward inferior visible later in the month as it heads toward inferior then earlier and earlier. Not conjunction on the 28th. OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 GoodOldParsley New Wayswith or byswishingitinabowlofwater.Parsleymakesan before itcomesup”. “Parsley goestoHellandbackagainninetimes as parsleyseedsgerminatesoslowlyitissaid, seeds. Patienceandconstantwateringisnecessary dirt. Watercarefullysoasnottowashawaythe two inches.Carefullycoverwithaboutahalf-inchof dirt untilitisfine.Carefullyplanttheseedsevery very difficulttosproutdirectlyfromseeds.Workthe garnish. Itisnotdifficulttogrowfromseedlings,yet pit orgalleyplanttobeusedfreshindishesasa used forinsectbitesorstings. to beanaphrodisiac!Apoulticeofitsleavescan of coffee,butwatchoutasparsleyhasbeenreported tea madefromparsleywillstimulateasmuchacup bad breathfromfoododorssuchasgarlicoronions.A during menstruation.Chewingparsleywillhelpwith eaten raworasteamayeasethebloatingthatoccurs women toalleviateirregularmenstrualcycles.Parsley and endocrineorgans. immune system,andbenefitsliver,spleen,digestive its vitaminEfightswrinkles.Parsleyfortifiesthe Parsley’s supplyofvitaminAbenefitsskintoneand Then passthroughasieve.Drinkbeforemeals. fresh parsleyintwocupsofhotwaterforhours. has agoodamountofpotassium. twice asmuchvitaminCorangejuice.Parsleyalso Vitamin K.Byweight,parsleycontainsmorethan contain morethantherecommendeddailydoseof heart attacksandstrokes.Twotablespoonsofparsley such asarthritis,asthma,diabetes,coloncancer, folic acid.Theseantioxidantsfightmanydiseases anti-oxidants suchasvitaminC,beta-caroteneand spoons ofparsleycontainaboutthreecalorieswith cures badbreath,itisalsoveryhealthy.Twotable- aside —enjoyeatingit,asitisnotonlytastyand pany thedinnerentréeasagarnish.Don’tpushit leafed variety. love thesharpsmellandalmostsweettasteofflat- types ofparsley,thecurlyfern-leafedandflat.We and broughttotheAmericasbefore1800. herb. ParsleywasintroducedtoEnglandinthe1500s Ages, theFrenchpopularizedparsleyasakitchen ley tokeepthemhigh-spirited.DuringtheMiddle Greek gods,Juno,grazedherhorsesinfieldsofpars- to beasacredgiftfromtheirgods.Thequeenofthe over twomillennia.AncientGreeksconsideredparsley Mediterranean Sea,parsleyhasbeencultivatedfor used asamedicinalherb.Originatingalongthe taste makesitawell-knownseasoning,mayalsobe taste andfresharoma.Eventhoughparsley’sunique Parsley isafamiliar,brightgreenplantwithvibrant and stews. try andmeat,seasoningdishessuchassoups mixture offreshherbsusedformarinatingfish,poul- kets andshopsthroughouttheislands.It’sapuréed Parsley isfragile,sowashitcarefullyinacolander Happy inasmallcontainer,parsleyisgreatcock- Parsley isanaturaldiureticandcanbeusedby To makeaparsleytonic,steepquartercupof In manyrestaurants,sprigsofcurlyparsleyaccom- The Caribbeanislandsgrowthetwomostcommon My homemadegreenseasoningdependsonparsley. You seebottlesof“greenseasoning”forsaleinmar- the Our Advertisers Support Them. THE SPICELOCKERBYSHIRLEYHALL Support Compass… Please vor, colorandfoodvalue. add ittowardstheendsowillretainmostofitsfla- parsley incookedrecipes,usetheflat-leaftypeand vitamin contentandthetaste.Ifyouareincluding be eatenraw.Heatfromcookinggreatlyreducesthe obtain themaximumfoodvaluefromparsleyitshould excellent additiontosoups,saladsandbaking.To be used) your taste.Bottleandrefrigerate. chives, onions,thyme,basil,etceteramaybeaddedto juice, vinegarorwater—asneeded.Salt,pepper, liquefied, addingasmallamountofliquid—e.g.lime instead) 2 mediumripetomatoes,chopped salt andpeppertotaste 2 Tablespoonslemonjuice 1/4 Cupoliveoil 1/4 Cupchoppedfreshmintleaves 2 Cupschoppedfreshparsley 1/2 Cupchoppedonions 2 Cupscoldwater 3/4 Cupwheatbulgur(oatsorcookedricecanalso Taboulah–Parsley Salad Place allingredientsinblenderandprocessuntil 10 to20chadonbeneleaves(cilantromaybeused 1 entireheadofgarlic—peeltheindividualcloves 1 to2bunchesoffreshparsley Shirley’s AllNaturalGreenSeasoning … and more! Read inNextMonth’s Cruising theEasternCaribbeanwithYourDog Side-Tied ThroughthePanama Canal Re-Think LeewardSt.Vincent sealed container. make threedozendogbiscuits.Coolandstoreina cookie sheetat350°Ffor30minutes.Thisshould pompeks getonlyone-inchpieces.Bakepiecesona dog. Abigdogshouldgetfour-inchpieceswhilesmall thick logs.Cutthelogsaccordingtosizeofyour water ifmixturefeelstoodry.Rolldoughintohalf-inch with ahalfCupofwater.Mixandknead.Addmore get thecorrectconsistency) will help! before serving. simmer untilriceiscooked.Stirinparsleyandchives rice andspices.Sealpotwithfoil,reduceheat, favorite dressing. Drain onpaperandservewithtartarsauceoryour the crumbs. another. Dipcakesfirstintheeggandthencoatwith en egginonesmallbowlandbiscuit/breadcrumbs into ballsandthenflattenwithaspatula.Placebeat- er withtheonion,parsleyandchives.Rollmixture then flakethefishapartwithafork. of waterandpoachthefishfilletsuntiljusttender Cover thebottomofamediumfrypanwithhalf-inch chopped parsley. taste. Pureeifdesired.Justbeforeservingaddthe heat andsimmerforanhour.Stirinsaltspicesto ley inalargepotandbringtoboil.Lowerthecooking an hourbeforeservingonabedoflettuce.Servessix. mixture. Addchoppedtomatoesandchillforatleast juice, oil,saltandpepper,thenaddtograin-parsley chopped onions.Addparsleyandmint.Mixlemon onions. Ifsubstitutingcookedrice,justmixwith for ahalfhour.Drainandmixgrainwithchopped Mix parsley,carrots,flour,branandbakingpowder 1/2 Cupofwater(moremaybenecessaryto 3 Tablespoonsbakingpowder 1/4 Cupwheatbran 3 Cupsflour(preferwholewheat) 2 Tablespoonsvegetableoil 1/4 Cupchoppedcarrots 3 Cupschoppedparsley Does yourpoochhavebadbreath?Thesetreats Parsley CookiesforthePuppies Using alargepot,bringwatertoboil,andthenadd 2 wholechives,chopped 1/4 Cupchoppedparsley salt andspicetotaste 2 Cupsrice(preferbrownrice) 2 Cupsboilingwater Simple ParsleyRice Heat theoilinaskilletandfrycakesuntilcrisp. In asuitablebowlmixthefishandpotatoestogeth- Mix mashedpotatoeswithbutter,saltandspices. 2 Tablespoonscanolaoilforfrying 1/4 Cupbiscuit(cracker,e.g.“Crix”)orbreadcrumbs 1 egg,beaten 1/4 Cupchoppedchives 1/4 Cupchoppedparsley 1 mediumonion,chopped 1/2 poundskinnedkingfishorcaritefillet 1/2 poundskinnedsalmonfillet salt andspicestotaste 1 ouncebutter,melted 2 Cupsmashedpotatoes Parsley FishCakes Combine allingredientsexceptsalt,spicesandpars- 1/2 Cupchoppedparsley salt andspicetotaste 4 Cupschickenstockorvegetablebouillon 1 mediumonion,chopped 1 Cupslicedchives 1 Cupchoppedpotatoes Parsley andPotatoSoup Soak bulgur(oroats)inabowlwiththecoldwater Compass : OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 , Issue 12), or just the fallout from the eco- I quote you the rules I have to abide by while using I quote you the rules I have to abide by while using The good ship “Trinidad” has been heading off PS A quick word to address the comments Chris My original reference to the Customs dock was that to the Customs dock My original reference Stollmeyer’s challenge I will not even qualify Mr. Mr. Stollmeyer’s reply It was interesting to note that There is a difference between moaning and legitimate The Bay fixed, the rest, well… the CrewsInn Marina facilities: “Owners are to observe No Wake rules when operating their dinghies within the Marina. International Rule of the Road and the Laws of Trinidad and Tobago must be observed and complied with by all Vessels operating within, approaching or departing the Marina.” Why then do the ‘Rules of The Road’ not apply to all those, Trinis and cruisers equally, operating within the harbor environs? course for a while, perhaps it is now time for new blood to relieve the helm and get her back on course. Ron Llewellyn Boat Name Withheld Doyle made about my letter of July. Let me assure Chris that there is no anti-foul on my glasses and the reference to women being harassed goes far beyond ‘pssst’. Viewed through his ‘rose colored’ glasses, he is correct in saying that what he saw was “the same old Trinidad”. The matters I have raised have been here for a long time. Polaroid glasses will allow you to look deeper, Chris, and not just see what is on the surface. —Continued on next page hear them anyway over the noise of the support ele- over the noise of the hear them anyway anchorage 24 industry that invade the ments of the oil hours a day. low tide with Go alongside at it was “yacht unfriendly”. will know boat going by and you a speeding fishing wrote, “I about. Yet Mr. Stollmeyer what I am talking night and I the Customs dock day and have tied up to be lucky. My a problem.” He must have never had by Mr. been adequately supported observation has “steel-and-concrete Minks’ more colorful description, boat demolition dock”. Maybe while he and Ruth about “islands of rubbish”. they can pause by are out looking for howler monkeys float past. They shouldn’t the shore and watch them after heavy rain when have to wait too long, especially dumps are the storm drains-cum-sewers-cum-refuse pouring into the sea. was not, this time, placed to Mr. Minks’ letter (August) and on behalf of YSATT’. under the signature block ‘For it would be understandable After his reply to my letter, When people have to if YSATT removed that privilege. try and defend their argu- resort to personal attacks to home. Maybe it is time ments you know you are hitting progressive businessmen for some of the other more concerned with the and contractors who are genuinely the yachting com- ailing yacht industry, and hopefully up the reins. munity in Trinidad, to take complaint. Whether the slowdown in Chaguaramas is because of the fear of piracy, as alluded to by YSATT ( nomic slowdown, the people whose livelihood relies on the yacht industry are rightfully concerned. Before a remedy can be found, those at the helm must first recognize and accept that there are problems. For an historical perspective of how long customers to T&T have been ignored, have a look at the sidebar reports for T&T on noonsite.com. Chaguaramas is, at present, an un-policed, dirty, noisy, polluted, commercial port made uncomfortable and dangerous by uncontrolled speeding boats. Un-policed and dangerous can be on Fridays. PM , “The added bonus is that this , (vessel name proudly included) Compass Compass Night lights. Some anchorages have stars, some have oil rig support vessels… Howler monkeys or no howler monkeys, you couldn’t Finally, I find it quite amusing that after paragraphs Finally, I find it quite amusing Trinis really do trash You are right about two things: Re: no-wake signs: Mr. Stollmeyer wrote, “The no- Re: howler monkeys: Mr. Stollmeyer wrote, “I have Donald Stollmeyer, owner of Power Boats boatyard Had Mr. Stollmeyer had the good sense to let matters The eloquent June article by Ruth Lund exactly spoke June article by Ruth Lund The eloquent to connect if you make the effort to this. In Trinidad, hike with you really can. You can with islanders, explore art sit in upscale jazz venues, island Hashers, spontaneous St. James, and enjoy the galleries near shopping party that the Port of town-wide street starting about 2:00 district becomes boating centre is right in the middle of the Chaguaramas Development Authority’s land… Sitting in my cock- pit… the tropical forest, filled with a startling variety of birds, howler monkeys and butterflies… just a stone’s throw away.” You can take courses in engine repair and mainte- courses in engine repair You can take the Saturday to play pan. You can go to nance, or learn favorite set of regularly and develop your fresh market a point of saying good- vendors who you actually make island. But none of these bye to when you depart the who will not “venture things is available to someone of the modern shopping into town unless it is to one foreign women are victims malls.” And the canard that — you have the of verbal harassment is despicable I have long found it wrong culture, Mr. Llewellyn. women and throughout amusing to watch men watch Trinidad, I have the entire West Indies, including careful demeanor of males found the eye control and astounding. around all women to be quite facilities in Trinidad, you of outrage about cruising about excellent and write concluding paragraphs and helpful” people, affordable medical care, “friendly available contractors in good WiFi, yacht supplies, and the boatyards. Precisely. — and the fishermen do their waters — such a pity the harbor in a dangerous drive their pirogues through way. There is a cure for the last one: a competent coast guard. Some day…. Constance Elson S/V Tashtego Dear his insults and accepted the fact that someone backed into a corner feels the need to “shoot the messenger”. However, in the August issue he once more chose to attack the messengers rather than to address the seri- ous issues raised. His continued attacks against my motives and veracity need to be called to order. wake sign was removed when a building in its location was removed many years ago; it was not stolen.” Here is a quote from Gina Hatt, who runs the YSATT office in Chaguaramas, to a suggestion I made regarding positioning of ‘No Wake’ signs: “Well, at one time there were floating buoys with the signs etc. — just as you suggested — but they were stolen. :-)” (Facebook group, ‘Trinidad for Cruising Sailors’ Discussion. No Wake Zone.) been working in Chaguaramas harbor since 1981 and have never seen a howler monkey.” Ruth Lund wrote in the June in Chaguaramas and founding member of YSATT, has in Chaguaramas and founding member of YSATT, has now been given two opportunities to reply to letters in the Readers’ Forum. In both of these, rather than address the concerns raised, he has resorted to deri- sion and questioned the veracity of the writers. stand after his first response, I would have absorbed

' S R E M , D U A R Compass E O The glory of Trinidad is that THERE IS NO BUBBLE. Much more importantly I wish to rebut your sugges- There is no question that the December 2009 piracy I look forward to the day when additional mooring I look forward to the day when additional mooring That is why all concerned parties, business owners, I find the July issue [Readers’ Forum] attack on I find the July issue [Readers’ FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' tion that cruisers and foreign visitors are in personal danger in Trinidad. I spent 14 of the past 24 months in Trinidad and in that entire time, the only crime experienced by a cruiser was a purse-snatching that occurred in Port of Spain near Woodford Square. It is true that the crime level in Trinidad is very high but it is entirely directed toward Trinidadians, and mostly among people known to each other. I freely traveled all around Port of Spain by myself, using maxi-taxis and on foot. I dressed as I saw Trinidadian women of my age (middle) dress — except not nearly so stylishly — and I travelled only in daylight hours. And of course I didn’t go into Laventille and nighttime excursions were mostly with Jesse James’ transportation service or with a private car and other people. I frequently walked at night between TTSA and Peake’s, usually with one or two other people but occasionally alone, when family fishing groups were still around. And I listened to many, many visiting yachties say they were afraid to even leave their boatyards in Chaguaramas. Apparently your wife and her friends are among that group. All I can say is that people bring their own prejudices and fears with them to these islands. I see many affluent fellow-Americans who live in gated com- munities in the US and who equate poverty, especially dark-skinned poverty, with ghetto crime. And many of the West Indies islands, for whom tourism is the pri- mary or only industry, work hard to create what I call a “yachtie bubble” that cruisers can remain inside, enjoying their idea of the Caribbean. event between Trinidad and Grenada was serious and event between Trinidad and Grenada was serious and is having a negative impact on Trinidad yachting. That aside, I left Trinidad in April of this year and am sur- prised to hear about the thefts you describe. During the entire eight months preceding our departure, there had been exactly one dinghy theft reported on the net and that dinghy had not been locked with cable. Seemed like par for the course in any harbor. and marina facilities are built around Point Gourde, and marina facilities are built around Point Gourde, currently an under-utilized resource, with free shuttle bus service to the many yachting businesses in Chaguaramas. long-time Trinidad cruisers and the new government long-time Trinidad cruisers and the new government have formed the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) and are actively addressing a num- ber of important issues, including the urgent one of developing new mooring fields and anchorages for yachts in the larger Chaguaramas basin. It is true: right now you should only anchor or moor in Chaguaramas Bay if you like the bustle and noise of an active commercial port that runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week. I actually do but understand that many cruisers would not; it certainly isn’t what cruis- ing magazines feature. However, your letter failed to mention that existing Chaguaramas marinas still offer quiet waters and clean facilities and the T&T Sailing Association, on the east side of Hart’s Cut, does a heroic job of providing a quiet anchorage and moor- ings, WiFi and shoreside amenities for visiting cruisers while also trying to serve their own membership. Trinidad written by Mr. Llewellyn so unbalanced that Trinidad written by Mr. Llewellyn I have to write this letter of partial rebuttal. Yes, Mr. Llewellyn, Chaguaramas has changed since you were there in 2000. The government made a decision, based on sensible economics, to give priority to its value as a deep-water commercial port primarily serving the petroleum industry. And yes, that presents a chal- lenge to the Trinidad yachting industry, which has spent the last decade building up the finest and most professional yards and services in the Caribbean south of St. Martin. Dear OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. 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Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. REMEMBER are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: ! Dear Amused ChaguaramasEmployee Sign me, you giveit,willgetit! will neverchangeareattitudes.AswesayinTrini—if the wrongstorights;however,whattheycannotand and agood“lime”. love peopleandwhotohaveagoodtimewithfood vices andmostofall—wehavethepeople,peoplewho really blowsthemind.Wehaveexcellenthealthser- facilities, brilliantcontractors,cultureandfoodthat sandy beaches.Instead,wehaveexcellentstorage to Chaguaramas.Thereisnobluewaterandwhite 2010 issue.Ifyouwouldliketogocruising,don’tcome author oftheLetterMonthinyourSeptember vive bafflesme. No fundingfromgovernment.Nothing.Howtheysur- don’t chargeathing.Theygetdonationseither. that bendsoverbackwardstohelpcruisersandthey a smileinreturn?Thisisnot-for-profitorganization islands whereacruisercangotocomplainandreceive doing agoodjob.Isthereplaceinanyoftheother thing theyneverorhardlyeverhearisthatare everything fromcruisersandcontractorsbuttheone call YSATT.Thisorganizationtakesitall.Theyhear Immigration andCustomslookingforayacht—they just freakingventyourfrustrations—gotoYSATT. don’t knowwheretosendit—goYSATT.Need — gotoYSATT.Needgetyourmailfromhomeand know wheretogo—YSATT.Lookingforadentist to YSATT.YouwantseesomeofTrinidadanddon’t — gotoYSATT.Nothappywithyourcontractor Cruisers haveaproblemwithCustomsandImmigration them orthatYSATTshoulddothisandthat. alike complainthatYSATTisn’tdoinganythingfor is YSATT.Everydaybothcruisersandcontractors gets basheddayinandoutfromallsidesthat be standingupandtakingnotice. but itwilleventually.Thisnewgovernmentseemsto accommodate you. ministers andrelevantauthoritiestoseehowtheycan ings aretakingplacewithCoastGuard,government plaints ofthevisitingcruisers.Meetingsuponmeet- Steering Committeearedoingtosatisfyallthecom- Chaguaramas BusinessGroupandtheYachting to either,istheamountofworkthatYSATT, But whatalotofcruisersdon’tseeandarenotprivy not knowwhatanowakezoneis.Thereislotmore. ously appearanddisappear.Thelocalfishermendo up inthePortofSpainarea.Thedieselspillsmysteri- dirty. Thegarbagethatfloatsincomesfromtherivers one caresandnoistrying.Well,yesthebay bay isdirty,nothinghaschangedovertheyears,no final priceorsailoutwithoutpaying. to bedone,signcontractsandthenrefusepaythe it isconvenientforthem;orcruiserswhoaskwork cruisers whosailtotheislandanddon’tcheckinuntil are unacceptabletouslocalsaswell:thingssuch contractors, etcetera,andtherearesomethingsthat Immigration andCustomsofficers,overchargingby upfront unacceptable,likerudeandobnoxious try willtaketime.Therearesomethingsthat young oneandgettingeverythinginlineforthisindus- tor islocatedinthisarea),thesectorstillavery ing industrytobeperfect(yes,theentireyachtingsec- I bothagreeanddisagreewithwhatisbeingwritten. you tellten. pens, youtelloneperson.Ifsomethingbadhappens, one everpointsoutthegood.Ifsomethinggoodhap- Chaguaramas Bay.Butasweallknowquitewell,no and timeisbeingtakentopointoutthe“bad”in rude? Tuneintothenextissue,when…. Will Immigrationeverstopbeingsodiscourteousand the bestthattheycantomakelifeeasierforcruisers? ever thinkthatthepeopleofChaguaramasaretrying Ron Llewellyn’scontinuedbashing?WillLlewellyn continuing saga....WillDonaldStollmeyerrespondto Dear — were destroyingthevegetation,sotherewas apressing ous, peoplewerespearfishingonthereef, andgoats Tobago Cays,speedingboatsmadeswimming danger- good. Thedevilisinthedetails.In caseofthe this area? conducted withmewhilepreparinghisreport: share withreadersabitmorefromthe interviewhe August 2010issueof Sandy Island/OysterBedMarineProtectedAreainthe I cannotwaitforthenextissueof This ismuchbetterthananytelevisionsoapoperaand of theislandthathavebeenprintedinyourmagazine. “Trinidad bashing”lettersaswellthoseindefense The yachtingsectoristryingreallyhardtochange So, inessenceIagreewithFrankVirgintino,the But thereisoneentityinChaguaramasBaythat I don’tthinkthatovernighteverythingwillchange, The gistofthelettersonbashingsideisthat While wewouldlikeourthreesquaremilesofyacht- As anemployeeatoneoftheestablishmentsinbay, It reallyisquiteamusingtoseehowmuchinterest CD: Inprincipletheideaofprotection isalways NL: Whatdoyouthinkaboutthedecision toprotect I wasgladtoreadNeilLadell’sreportonthenew I havebeenreading,withabsoluteamusement,the Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass , , Compass , andwouldliketo Compass toreadthe —Continuedonnextpage in TyrrelBay. the reclaimingoflandforstalledmarina project ten yearsago,arecentinspectionrevealed, despite years withoutinfluencefrommankind. fascinating towatchSandyIslandevolve overthe a littleunsurehowSIOBMPAwillhelp. Ithasbeen nature. Lennywasahurricane,nottourist, andIam the “importantconcernsthatdeserveclarification”? aspects oftheSIOBMPA—butdidNeil’sarticleaddress servation efforts,expressedskepticismaboutsome Doyle, onrecordasastrongsupporterofregionalcon- Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle not thesamething. associations thatareconnectedwithyachtingisreally decision-making. Havinginputfrommarinetrades yachting, ifsomeyachtspeoplewereincludedinthe it shouldberemoved. test period.Ifitisnotshowntoprovideaclearbenefit the measureshouldbebroughtinprovisionallyfora evidence fortheneedofit.Ifthereisnoevidence,then to bringinanewrestriction,theyshouldprovideclear can breedresentment. what theythinkisrightforeverybody.Clearlythis of onesetindividualsmakingdecisionsabout good oftheenvironmentorpublic,butconsists creating asystemthatisnotnecessarilyforthe However, ifwebaseourparksondogma,are dramatic as,say,theturtlepoolinTobagoCays. people in,buttheimprovementwouldhavetobeas because thesnorkelingissogood,itmaybringmore sea life,andbecomesaplacepeoplehavetosee term. Iftheareashowsasignificantincreaseinunder- point sources(usuallyland-based)andfixthem. a problemlikethisistakewatersamples,findthe against theyachtingcommunity.Thewaytodealwith thinking withnoevidentiarybasisthatisbiased ther contributetotheproblemistypicalof that theyshouldbebannedbecausemightfur- this clearlyhasnothingtodowithyachts.Theidea understand thereisanalgaeprobleminthisarea,but nearby restaurantsandhelpthelocalcommunity.I here anyway,butthosethatdospendmoneyinthe in thenearfuture,tobenegative.Veryfewyachtsgo anchor inL’Esterre,andneitherwillmooringsbeput them havegoneadrift. Caribbean parksquiteafewmooringswithyachtson parks generallydon’thaveinsurance,andinour risk ifthemooringsarenotgoodenough.Marine of them.Inaddition,yachtspeopleputtheirboatsat them forit,youaregoingtochaseawayatleastsome age it.Ifyoumakepeopleusemooringsandcharge why not? more attractiveforpeoplevisitingbyyachts?Whyor right offyourboat. anchoring area,andnowyoucanswimwithturtles Barth’s ledtotherecoveryofseagrassbedsin For examplefreemooringsinAnsedeColombier,St. worthwhile. Insomecasesmooringsdefinitelyhelp. changes; let’sfindoutifwearereallydoingsomething anchor, thenintroducemooringsandrecordthe a scientificstudydoneoftheseabedwhereyachts I willjustenjoythebeach. some dives.Ifindependentdivingisbanneditlikely are hardertogetto.SoIcallupadiveshopandbook whets myappetiteformore,buttheotherdivesites Sandy Island.Ihaveadelightfulexperiencethat suppose Idiveoffmyboatonthefringingreefat ple goingwithdiveshopsactuallydrops.Why?Well, ing isbanned,suchasSaba,thenumberofyachtspeo- Furthermore, inmanyplaceswhereindependentdiv- where themajorityofdivingisdonethatway. one ofthebest-runmarineparksinCaribbean, to diveontheirown,asdoestheBonaireMarinePark, famous divesiteintheCaribbean,encouragespeople Wreck oftheRhoneMarinePark(BVI),most seems tohavenopurposebasedonevidence.The people fromdivingunlesstheygowithadiveshop other parkstobackthisup.Onthehand,ban fishing isstillallowed.Therehardsciencefrom they canthriveandthushelppopulateareaswhere fishing areawillgivefishandconchaplacewhere rounding SandyIslandandovertoL’Esterreanon- we shouldnotcreaterestrictionsfornogoodreason. better tostartprotectionbeforethereisaproblem,but obvious problem,sowhyfixit?Obviouslyitismuch Sandy Islandandthemangroveswampthereisno has beensignificantimprovement.Inthecaseof need foraction.Sincetheparkbecameactivethere The mangrovesareashealthytoday theywere As Neilstates,thebiggestthreattoSandy Islandis In NeilLadell’sarticleintheAugustissueChris It wouldalsobeveryhelpfulinparksthataffect There isonewaytofixthis.Anytimeaparkdecides CD: Iaminfavorofgoodparksbasedonscience. NL: Isthereanythingyouwantedtoadd/suggest? The benefitsofmakingtheareaaparkaremorelong I findthefactthatyachtswillnotbeallowedto CD: Everytimeyourestrictanactivitydiscour- NL: Doyouthinkthisprotectedstatuswillbe Re: makingyachtsusemoorings,Iwouldliketosee For example,inthispark,makingtheareasur- Compass , a priori OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

BEQUIA Tel: (784) 593 7264 1-758-724-9805 St. Lucia • Rodney Bay St. Lucia out in The Bay (Pigeon Island).The Bay (Pigeon out in Tel: 1-758-287-8957 or Tel: Call us at VHF Ch. 16 or VHF Ch. Call us at Located at Gingerbread Café docks at the Rodney Bay Marina anddocks at the Rodney Bay We are on-line: A well organized service awaits you. We We well organized service awaits you. A www.caribbeancompass.com pick up and deliver your laundry from thepick up and deliver your SPARKLE LAUNDRY SPARKLE readers’ Compass and activities within

, Compass Our board pledges to work with all affected groups, And, we may ask, why are they doing all this for us?ask, why are they doing all And, we may Not once honest and cut the waffle! Please, let’s be to raise funds for the So what are SIOBMPA’s plans from Mr. Ladell’s Unfortunately, it can be construed Save the Planet. Editor’s Note: We asked Davon Baker, Chairman of The Sandy Island reef system and the Oyster Bed, The SIOBMPA board is comprised of many stake- At the same time, it seems that the writer is mostly However, I must say that I have discussed issues The bottom line is our organization is a young one, comments, queries and observations; however, we do expect that your complaints should be reasonable. I am quite sure that anyone who is informed about the natural history of Sandy Island and the Oyster Bed, and who has a genuine passion for conservation, would find it easy to share our vision to protect and preserve these natural, cultural heritages of ours. —Continued on next page the area are also curtailed. We have many items to revisit and new ones to give considerations to. While we do not expect all to be in complete agreement, it is highly irresponsible to make false and unfounded claims as this writer and others have been doing. Our protected area is small, and there remains open access to all other areas around Carriacou. The idea of an MPA with fees is by no means new in the region, or even in the world. but our first aim would remain the protection of our precious resources. We welcome except in emergencies. Could this mean yachtsmen? Could this mean except in emergencies. for swim- safety at sea, particularly Well, it’s “to promote and scuba diving” (not yachtsmen). ming, snorkeling any hint as article did Mr. Ladell give in a 750-word not conser- is to be funded. It’s to how the SIOBMPA contributing yachtsmen object to, or vation that the hands of the cause, it is power in financially to the unaccountable. Bay, buoys in east coast future — buoys in Tyrell plans be trialed in order to anchorages? How will these Or are we to await anoth- get our welcomed feedback? er fait accompli? charges, that it is only reluctance to mention mooring (with their doubtful ben- by installing mooring buoys anchoring, and efit to the environment), prohibiting to pay for their therefore forcing passing yachtsmen funds. In that case, the use, that SIOBMPA can raise are indeed subsidizing yachtsmen of the Caribbean dive industry, and all the the organization, the local co-management board of vested interests of the associations”, who- SIOBMPA including the “private the reefs. Perhaps we ever they are. Not to mention should have more say. Chris Long Yacht Tropical Dream the SIOBMPA board, for a response to Chris Long’s let- ter. Jerry Stewart’s letter arrived subsequently. Davon’s reply, below, is in response to Chris Long’s letter, but addresses points raised in both. Dear which this MPA is commissioned to protect, fall within the sovereign territory of Grenada. The MPA cannot happen without the designation by the Government of Grenada. The SIOBMPA is not some ad hoc, fly-by- night organization looking to make money, as seems to be the accusation. In fact, it is not even the first prior- ity of the MPA to generate funds. Instead, we are, first and foremost, interested in protecting our natural heritage and resources for many generations ahead. holders from various organizations and interest groups, including three persons from governmental agencies. These include the National MPA Coordinator and the local Fisheries officer. The letter writer, Chris Long, already knows that our MPA came into being after many years of preparations, which included much interaction with stakeholders. The writer, however, has already concluded that we are an unaccountable bunch. This I find to be a rather reckless and irrespon- sible approach. frustrated with Neil Ladell’s article. Mr. Ladell, how- ever, is not a member of our organization. He was, instead, an intern with one of our stakeholder bodies, the Sustainable Grenadines Project. The information presented in the article was not vetted by our board prior to submission for publication, and as such the information is Mr. Ladell’s opinion, and not that of the SIOBMPA management. In fact, many local stakehold- ers (such as fisher folks and water taxi operators) are equally frustrated that the article did not adequately represent their part in the process of establishing the SIOBMPA. As such, the rash judgmental approach of the letter writer may be easily excused. raised here with the President of the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada, and it seems that they do not support the attitude nor share the extreme views of the writer. The question, therefore, of whom does he/she speak when mention is made of “yachts- men of the Caribbean”? What is his/her authority to speak on behalf of such a group? and our initiatives impact persons of various back- grounds, and not just yachters. It is a national organiza- tion, with tremendous support from the local people, including fishers whose livelihood , Compass Continued from previous page Continued from At this point Mr. Ladell decides that rather than Having read of the 15 years of toil involving “research, Despite his unassailable moral position, Neil Ladell Unfortunately in today’s political climate no one dare (Re: article about the creation of the Sandy Island/Oyster Few are critical of conservation efforts where Few are critical of conservation efforts where Does the apparently healthy MP area actually need Does the apparently healthy MP area actually need With the “Visitor Tax” (Grenadians continue to With the “Visitor Tax” (Grenadians continue to Creating a structure that taxes tourist visitors in Why the anchoring ban? The nearby Tobago Cays Why the anchoring ban? Re: “Anchoring will no longer be permitted.” We are Re: “Anchoring will no longer “It’s for the environment” claim the rangers as they “It’s for the environment” claim Current water-based use seems to damage nothing. use seems to damage Current water-based The biggest threat to them would appear to be to be threat to them would appear The biggest enumerate these important concerns it would be more illuminating for us mortals for him to launch into a tedious, possibly spurious history of the SIOMBPA, the “decisions behind the decision to protect” and its further plans to “trial a series of plans for which feed- back will be welcomed” and point out that only three years ago were “human intervention measures for con- servation needed”. Oh, and by the way, no anchoring planning and community consultation”, “a dream come true” for dive operator Max and “100-percent positive feedback” (whatever all this means) it was no surprise that Mr. Ladell was surprised by a note of scepticism from — someone. This someone obviously prompted Mr. Ladell’s memory and he concedes that, having spoken to Chris Doyle, there exist “important concerns that deserve clarification, particularly those that may limit boating activities”. Aha! Limiting of boating activities. Could that mean yachtsmen? in his article “A Long Time Coming” seems to fall into all the usual traps lying in wait for those determined to avoid or distort the real facts in order to further the case for an argument that is beyond argument: We all agree about conservation. In this case we (yachtsmen of the Caribbean, only once alluded to in the article as “boaters”) strongly resent the platitudinous, patroniz- ing, psycho-babble beloved of impenetrable NGOs, CBOs, quangos, and other self-elected organizations formed for our unrequested benefit, particularly when used to obfuscate. sound remotely negative about “green” or conservation initiatives to save the planet, the reefs of Carriacou or any other reefs for that matter. Green is good; conser- vation is essential. Such is the arrogance of conserva- tion groups that any negative logic or comment is either ignored or dismissed as being non-eco-friendly. Bed Marine Protected Area in the August issue] What a wonderful idea, a protected marine park for Carriacou. required, but are we not looking at over-regulation required, but are we not looking at over-regulation from SIOBMPA? Jerry Stewart Carriacou Dear “long term revitalization” or just fisheries control, “long term revitalization” or just fisheries control, which should be quite straightforward within an area under the jurisdiction of the Grenada Port Authority anyway! use their Sandy Island and mangroves without use their Sandy Island and mangroves without cost), comes the risk of reduced visitor numbers resulting in lower revenues for tourist-related busi- ness at a particularly difficult economic time and also a loss to Government in the form of lower cruising permit revenue. order to fund itself seems a strange way of achieving order to fund itself seems a strange way of achieving “conservation and ”, the stated aim of SIOBMPA and the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. The need for “revitalization of the fish population” is surely the result of over-fishing, and I agree that the banning of fish pots within the Park is a step in the right direction. Marine Park offers moorings to those that desire them; Marine Park offers moorings the rest can anchor. The inevitable impression that the SIOBMPA moorings are placed only to generate income will not encourage visitors. No one disagrees with the need for moorings in sensitive areas, dive sites and reefs, but is there an argument in favour of banning anchoring on white sand? all aware of the surveys showing that cruising showing that cruising all aware of the surveys per day than cruise ship yachtspeople spend more go directly into the local passengers. These dollars other island destina- economy that competes against in recent years to tions. Effort has been expended to cruising yachts, make Tyrrel Bay more attractive to the community. This bringing more income and jobs anchorage on the north is now at risk, the traditional from northerly swells, is side of Tyrrel Bay, sheltered will leave; the local econ- no longer available. Cruisers omy will suffer. collect the mooring fees. Well, actually, it’s not. collect the mooring fees. half a million dollars a Grenada’s Marine Parks need user must pay. year to operate and the tourist Future use will damage only your pocket as you pay damage only your pocket Future use will half hour of tranquility the user fee. Sorry Chris, your now comes at a price. development of the land side: the loss of the salt of the salt of the land side: the loss development settle the sediment and detritus ponds into which the rainy hillside during from the surrounding and they chokes mangrove roots season. Sediment to be part however, do not appear die. 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3 — Dear Ministry ofCarriacou&PetiteMartiniqueAffairs Permanent Secretary’sOffice Representative ofthe SIOBMA ManagementBoardChairman& Davon Baker Regards, to Neil’spiece. MPA. Wewillsubmit,foryournextissue,afollow-up word outontheworkofSandyIsland/OysterBed respond. Thankyoualsoforaidingusingettingthe “Cobbler’s Boots”intheAugust mid-Atlantic. Entertainingandinformative,thanksfor ting usallaboard Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street of Martinique. the eastcoastissomuchbetter. NEVER visitsthewestorsouthcoastofMartiniqueas Martinique wherehekeepshisCarib41.Hestates Lachnez Heude.Philipelivesontheeastcoastof guide. ThisguidewasoriginallyfinancedbyPhilipe than sixfeet,besuretofindacopyofJeromeNouel’s the eastcoastofMartinique,especiallyifyoudrawless from iUniverse.com. stores, Johnson’smarinehardwareinSt.Lucia,and Trinidad guideisavailableatallIslandWaterWorld covered inallmyguides;thelatestMartiniqueto numerous timessince. Merde, ourbi-lingualschipperke.Ihavecruisedhere daughter Dory,averysmallsemi-workingengine,and was myself,mylatewife,Marilyn,ourtwo-year-old Dear S/V BoldlyGo Ellen EbertBirrell Frank, onallfronts! puts usinfirst.” and gentlesoft-spokenFranksaid,“Iguessthat down, boatsstayedafloat,crewmemberswereokay, along onporttackin20knots.Thecommotiondied watched asmomentspassed.Wecontinuedgalloping from myfront-rowseatamidshipson Ginko her hull,explodedaftstarboardlifelinesandsenta get backontostarboardtack.TheT-boningcrunched Sanctus we watchedfromslightlydownwindasstarboard Carriacou RegattaFestival,15minutesafterthestart question stainlesschainhasprovedunreliable asa had afailureIwouldlovetohearabout it. Thereisno tion withnometalliccontacttotheboat. Ifanyonehas stainless chainasIdo,inachain-and-rope combina- explain whyittookafewyearstofail. failure issomeformofelectrolysis, which would windlass. Istronglysuspectthereasonfor thechain’s as allchainconnectedfromtheseato boatviathe there isafailurewithstainlesschainit is beingused his conclusion.Myownobservationisthateverytime on thesesystems.However,Iamnotatallsureabout it seemedinexcellentcondition. and some30yearslater,whenIsoldtheboatin2000, the anchorendofrope.Thechaindatedfrom1969 feet ofcheapTaiwanesestainlesschainthatwason fine, andIanchorallthetime. boat isviarope.Sofarthesystemlooksandseems chain isouteverytimeIanchorandthecontactto article. However,Ionlyhave50feetofchainsoallthe that Isuspectisidenticaltotheonediscussedinthis WASI anchoringsystemfromEchoMarineinTrinidad issue of My Mind:ADeadlyCombination”intheSeptember Martinique was dinner. time foranafternoonswimbeforesundownersand leaving andyouareinthenextharborwithplentyof surely breakfastandpossiblyaquickswimbefore next harborby1500atthelatest.Thismeansalei- before about1030,andyoushouldbeenteringthe west axis,itmeansyoushouldnottrytoleaveharbor that difficult.Sincemostoftheharborslieonaneast- the contrary,sailingeastcoastofMartiniqueisnot favorite cruisingground. more. TheeastcoastofMartiniqueismywifeTrich’s Jerome Nouel’sguidetothearea,Icouldnotagree Compass Thanks, Frank Pearcesharedhishumorandsmartsbylet- Crewing on More yachtsshouldinvestigatetheeastcoast I noteinmyguidethatifyoureallywanttoexplore The eastcoastofMartiniquehasbeenadequately Here’s tothatsailor,gentleman,scholar.Waygo, I wouldlovetohearfromotherswho haveused Keith isquiterightinhavingheardofalotfailures Prior tothat,IhadaCarib41,whichcamewith12 When Ilaunchedmycatamaranin2001boughta I readwithinterestKeithBowen’sarticle“What’son The firstforeignyachttosailtheeastcoastof Despite whatmanysailorsandguideauthorssayto Regarding RuthandJohnMartin’sletterinAugust’s Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Compass crewmemberflying.Gasping,seizedinterror barreledinto Compass praisingtheeastcoastofMartiniqueand Compass Samadhi , , , Iolaire . Samadhi , forallowingustheopportunityto Ginko, , inSeptember1964.Thecrew intheSaturdayraceofJuly’s forhismisadventureinthe whowasinironstryingto Compass . Samadhi , I Dear Yacht Stillus Sally O’Regan ping ofsafelyvalvetocorrectpostion. greately. Removecooker. if floatvalvegetsstuck,presslightlywithCHOPSTICK. blockproof vakye.Exhaustpipeandfloatavlve. turn downthefiretoexhaustataneveninterval. exceed ½ofcapacity. cook cogforlubrica-tion e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityandfairplay. name maybewithheldfromprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) is notenoughfromwhichtodrawconclusions. However, mylimitedexperiencewithtwobitsofchain excellent solutioninachain-and-ropecombination. complete anchorrodesolution.Itmightstillbean additional coverstyleandautomaticblock-proofstyle/ made ineatherformofthetowusingstyles.Thatis, and durable. this unitissafely.usedinallaccessions. the manual: almost oneyearlater. years, andIstillgigglewhenreachforthecooker, was thebestpresentwehavegiventoeachotherin sent usbothintouncontrollablelaughter.Ibelieveit cooker, soIfeltshouldreadtheinstructions—which The problemwassoonrectifiedandIsettocook. handle onthelidhadbeenscrewedupsidedown. lid tofit.Myhusbandinspecteditandfoundthatthe expectations ofthatnight’smeal. what wewantedreturnedtotheboatwithhigh cooker, sowesetoffinsearchoftherightsize.Finding year, anddecidedwereallyneededanewpressure what wemayornothavefound. and sometimesbeingabit,let’ssay,letdownwith day orChristmaspresentswhilelivingintheCaribbean, Dear Thomas andDianaOlson Respectfully, Grenadines PoliceForce. Sergeant FrancisoftheRoyalSt.Vincent& police AREhereto“ProtectandServe”.Thank-you heavily fined. down bytheHonorableMagistrate.Thethiefwas presented thecaseandaguiltyverdictwashanded ness) andtheallegedthief.SergeantFrancisexpertly receiving same,appearedalongwiththeguard(awit- Vincentians alikecautionedusto“letthemattergo”. report wasmadeeventhoughfellowcruisersandlocal ghy andoutboarddestroyed. attempt tostophim.Thethieflaterreturnedthedin- guarded anddesignatedarea,despitetheguard’s Island, amantookourdinghyandoutboardfrom Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle The servicelifeoftheproductiseightvears. Clean exhaustpipe.Block-prootcover.putshaftof If steamcomesoutgreatelyfrompringsafetyvalve Don tttrytoopenthelidstronglybeforfloatvalvefalls After cooking.takeoutthesealingwasher,clean Attention Steam comesoutcoverwithpressurecontrolvakye, Check andcleartheexhaustpipe. Put infood:whencookingeasely-swollenfood.not When inuseforfirstime.Applysomeedibleoiconthe sketch. mapofhandeldnstallapaon. Please includeyourname,boatnameorshoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia VC0400 Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor How touse 4) thepressureconrilvalveandblock-proofcoverisn/ 3) thepulling-donstylevalveisused.Itreliable 2) thisunitisnoteffectedbythebangles. 1) thecam-interlockingmechanismmakessurethat Operation instruction The spellingandgrammarareastheyappearin The newcookerwasdifferentfrommyveryold Having washedthecooker,Itriedinvaintoget My husbandandIdecidedtobuyajointpresentthis I’m surewehaveallhadgreatfunlookingforbirth- The lesson?Donotbeafraidtoreportcrimes—the We waitedfornotificationofourcourtdateand,after A reportwasmadeatthelocalpolicestation.This A goodlessonforall:SomemonthsagoatUnion Secure anchoring! Compass Compass Compass , , Readers , OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 I stayed a whole month. What an island. I stayed a whole (Bequia) here next time! St. Vincent crew chiefs to do it right I ordered my colonies, both both former British away, similar historically, Twenty-four miles Not so. to application form on the internet. The humans had It was impossible to get the Vincent promotes archaic, colonial pet-importation However, BIG problems. St. occur. Consequently, the policy is one of due diligence when a non-human arrives. due diligence when a non-human the policy is one of occur. Consequently, the island to visiting yachtsmen expose he regretted that some He also mentioned and himself He added that his colleagues extremely dangerous risk. this low, but did it wrong. St. cost: EC$43. My crew of facilitating pet entry. Total make a point right. Lucia made it I come! huh? 1979. Piece of meat, independent since to request the application. The e-mail reply e-mail [email protected] not my e-mail address of “yahoo.ca”. After several calls was sent to “yahoo.com” and arrived. Once filled out, the application must be faxed the application requirements Division, Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, to the Animal Health and Production (784) 457-1688. It does sound official and efficient, St. Vincent & the Grenadines: doesn’t it? or bloodwork (i.e. FAVN-OIE titre test), health certificates, regulations. No matter the enter directly into St. Vincent only if I were exported my sweet disposition, I could the Otherwise I would have to be quarantined in from one of 12 named countries. my titre test allows me to go to the UK without UK for six months (even though logic problem in St. Vincent, I think. quarantine). There is a serious —Continued on next page . The veterinarian needed to make sure . The veterinarian needed to and I hadn’t been ashore for almost 20 AM AM had not given much thought to my clearance had not given much thought Themselves Letter of of Letter Month the Chris (spelled Qris) left my yacht promising clearance (and Chris (spelled Qris) left my yacht promising clearance , … Dang, it’s tough to type with paws — forget using the Blackberry! … Dang, it’s tough to type with paws — forget using the

I needed to go! Compass Compass physique. My crew and I cavalierly arrived at Rodney Bay, St. Lucia late one afternoon, plan- My crew and I cavalierly arrived I’m a dog. A smart one at that, but I can’t figure out why two equally beautiful that, but I can’t figure out why two equally beautiful I’m a dog. A smart one at Oooh! The way he looked at me, touched me, made me feel special! He was sweet- Oooh! The way he looked at me, touched me, made me At the appointed time, a neat looking fellow (with great hair!), introduced himself. looking fellow (with great hair!), introduced himself. At the appointed time, a neat Chris (spelled Qris) said that he knew I wasn’t a threat to the island agriculture. Had my delinquent crew applied for the importation permit and faxed all the par- Had my delinquent crew applied for the importation permit Dear spell check… How do you spell ‘quarantine’? Okay, I’ve typed the letter… Now, how’s the WiFi signal? in St. Lucia. At Customs, my crew were welcomed by a very polite officer named my crew were welcomed by a very polite officer named in St. Lucia. At Customs, a debonair crew that I needed to be “imported” with Marlon. Marlon informed my my yacht! Marlon, on his own initiative, immediately permit should I want off of veterinarian. An appointment was set to meet my crew telephoned the government day at 9:00 at the Customs office the next ning to visit for a few days. ning to visit for a few days. Dear and St. Vincent & the Grenadines can be so far apart. countries such as St. Lucia these two jewels of the Caribbean. I’ve had the plea- Only 24 nautical miles separate Dog, oh dog, what a difference. sure of visiting both this summer. talking too. However it was close to 9:00 Chris (spelled Qris) quickly found the necessary documents for the application found the necessary documents for the application Chris (spelled Qris) quickly crew had failed to send to the ministry. In the mean- form, which my lackadaisical eagerly waiting for Chris’ (spelled Qris) visit to check time, back on my yacht, I was my my papers were in order and do a physical examination. my papers were in order and But, he added that agriculture is extremely important to the island economy. St. Lucia could not afford the cost of remedial action should an outbreak of disease ticulars to the Ministry beforehand, the permit would have been printed and deliv- ticulars to the Ministry beforehand, the permit would ered to us at the time of examination. Since we had no working phone, Chris (spelled Qris) said he would phone the marina office to inform me the clearance was issued. Thank you, Chris (spelled Qris). Thank you, Marlon. hours. Customs would be noti- relief) before noon. My importation permit would be issued. The importation permit would fied. I would be free to conduct my business on shore. be delivered the next day to the Customs office. OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 charts. Fairtides! tide thefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 2207 2126 2046 20 2005 19 1923 18 1839 17 1751 16 1701 15 1607 14 1510 13 1413 1315 12 1219(new) 11 1124 10 1031 9 0938 8 0845 7 0751 6 0656 5 0600 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME October For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE OCTOBER &NOVEMBER2010 OF THEMOON 1448 1352(new) 1253 1155 9 1058 8 1003 7 0910 6 0819 5 0721 4 3 2 1 November 31 0637 0355 30 0545 0259 29 0451 0204 28 0111 27 0021 26 0000(full) 25 2334 24 2250 23 22 21 8 0525 30 0704 0434 29 0615 0341 28 0246 27 0150 26 0053 25 0000(full) 24 2357 23 2304 22 2215 21 2148 20 2045 19 2003 18 1923 17 1842 16 1801 15 1718 14 1631 13 1542 12 11 10 — Guy HurtubiseandChristineKehler(theingratiatingcrew) s/v PrincessofTides Princess are mycrew. importation permitawaywithnoexplanation!Iamnotusedtosuchtreatment,nor raced downthestreetafterus.HeorderedustoCustomsofficewhiletakingmy hostility. ManytimesIwasrudelystoppedbyofficials,andonceaCustomsofficer shore Ifoundatruelackofhospitalityandattimeswastreatedwithdownright me inthecountry.Despitealloureffortstomeettheirstandards,wheneverIvisited he sawus,butafterreviewingourdocuments,didallowthehumanstostaywith cleared tolandItookmycrewwithme.TheCustomsofficerwasincredulouswhen There werenofeesrequired. dered withinstructionsthatitshouldbemeatalltimeswheninthiscountry. pleasant andmyexaminationwasthorough.Theimportationpermitsurren- physical examinationfromtheSt.Vincentveterinarian.Sheturnedouttobequite Bequia, wewererequiredtostopinSt.VincentattheYoungIslanddockformynext ahead whenIcomeback.leftfeelinglike“caninegrata”:verygood. to St.Lucia!ShegavemetheofficephoneandfaxnumberssothatIcouldjustcall Before weleft,thisdoctorsuggestedfillingouttheimportationpermitforourreturn all thepertinentdocumentstogethertomakeiteasyforourarrivalinSt.Vincent. found papersmyunimprovedcrewdidn’trecognizetheimportanceof.Shestapled to makesureIhadeveryrequirementmet!Shereviewedmytravelingfolderand reviewed myapplicationforSt.Vincent.ShecalledtheVincentChiefVeterinarian me. Shefilledoutmorepapersandpronouncedmegoodtogo.Thislovelydoctor on arollercoasterwithkamikazedriver.AllforthepriceofUS$150. scenery. Butwhatathrill!Anhour-and-a-half,white-paw,closed-eyesruneachway having seentheinteriorofSt.Lucia,Ioptedforscenicroute.Didnotseemuch Castries, awater-taxiandthenlandtaxi,orjusttaxifromSoufriere.Not early thenextday.Thetraveloptionsformyselfandcrewwere:areturnsailto from thewaterfront.Aquickcalltovet’sofficeandanappointmentwasmadefor important shouldhavebeenaddressed. believe thatwiththemany,manycallstoChiefVeterinarian,something had failedtonoticethatimportantpoint. was necessary.Inthatextremelycomplicatedapplicationpackage,myinepthumans after all erinarian’s officetomakesureallwaswell. Soufriere, mydogsenseswereactingup.Iinsistedonanothercheckwiththevet- set thecourseforastagingatSoufrierenextlegtoSt.Vincent.Beforeleaving the permithadbeenissued.Right?No!Wait. in ameetingaswell.Butatthenextcallwewereinformedthatallwasorderand the callandrefusedtoidentifyherself.Ofcourse,ChiefVeterinarianwasagain Production Divisionbeaddressed.TheSt.Vincentstaffmemberrefusedtotransfer phone calls.Atonepoint,IsuggestedthatthesupervisorofAnimalHealthand Ministry telephoneswerenotworkingandthee-mailsystemwasdownaswell. later, Igrowledarenewedrequestforstatus.Somehow,theapplicationwaslost!The irresponsible humanstogetontheblower.Samemessage,sameaction.Afewdays let usknowifIcouldclearCustoms.Right?No!Nocallore-mail.barkedatmy veterinarian wouldreviewitforcompleteness.Shetelephoneore-mailusto received faxapplicationwasinorder.Yes,theand tained. IamaPrincessafterall. me healthyandbug-free—perhapstenpagesinall.Ihavealwaysbeenwellmain- faxed, alongwithallmymedicalinformationandcopiesofmedicationstokeep animal canbeimporteddirectlyintoSt.Vincent.Theapplicationwascompletedand sures wereneeded.Fortunately,St.Luciaisoneofthecountriesfromwhichan St. Lucia,Vincent.Socloseyetsofarapart. We stayedthreedaysandthatwasquiteenough. We immediatelyleftforBequiawherewewouldgothroughCustoms.AsIhadbeen Safely backonthewater,weleftforSt.Vincent.Althoughjustwantedtovisit I didgettoseemyfriendChris(spelledQris)againwhileanotherdoctorlookedat What todo?TheSt.LuciaChiefVeterinarian’sofficeisinCastries,quiteadistance I saidgood-byetomyfriendsinRodneyBay.orderedtheliftingofanchorand Not toworryhowever.Icommandedare-faxandsuccessiveconfirmationtele- A fewdayslater,myhumanassistantstriedtogetassurancethattheconfirmed- My crewweren’tkeenonmetouringEnglandmyown,however.Seriousmea- Continued frompreviouspage . Andyes,therewasamissingdocument!AnexportpermitfromSt.Lucia Themselves The applicationhadnotbeenreviewed knowitwasanoversight,but OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 E L A S

R Parts - Repairs - Service with luxurious interior with luxurious FAX: (473) 444 2899 [email protected] Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Twin screw working vessel, Twin screw working vessel, Incredible interior, cork fl oors, Incredible interior, cork fl Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP 12v71 Detroits 4.5:1 reductions, 12v71 Detroits 4.5:1 reductions, granite countertops, all stainless granite countertops, all stainless appliances, whirlpool tub, hot tub. O PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] Current fl agship of salvage company. agship Current fl 96’ UTILITY TUG TUG 96’ UTILITY Priced to sell $475,000 • Located BVI TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL fully fendered, 3 generators, full electronics. full electronics. fully fendered, 3 generators, McIntyre Bros. Ltd. FOR SALE FFOR TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA for Indaba in a responsible, accurate and sensitive by John Burnie Caribbean Compass WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S WE READ? ,

Compass As for your correspondent’s attitude to World Cruising Club, his comments are without foundation or basis. For theAs for your correspondent’s attitude to World Cruising Club, his comments are without foundation or basis. For Noonsite.com has a global readership, many of whom are actively involved in contributing to the site, which aims Noonsite.com has a global readership, many of whom are actively involved in contributing to the site, which Did we sensationalise the report? Categorically no. We strive to report information accurately and Mike’s injuries Did we sensationalise the report? Categorically no. We strive to report information accurately and Mike’s injuries Given Mike’s injuries it is perhaps understandable that his account was a little rambling, and further confusion Given Mike’s injuries it is perhaps understandable that his account was a little rambling, and further confusion Our procedure with all security reports, including personal attacks such as this one, is to confirm they actually Our procedure with all security reports, including personal attacks such as this one, is to confirm they actually While we regret the confusion that surrounded the reporting of the attack on Mike Harker (and are relieved that While we regret the confusion that surrounded the reporting of the attack on Mike Harker (and are relieved May I suggest that noonsite take the advice of the many experts in the Caribbean, such as the Caribbean Safety May I suggest that noonsite take the advice of the many experts in the Caribbean, such as the Caribbean Safety Am I alone in thinking this is appalling? Are we to take any of the other noonsite “piracy reports” seriously? Or Am I alone in thinking this is appalling? Are we to take In recent years security and safety have become a major concern for cruisers visiting the Caribbean. Anyone In recent years security and safety have become a major Any reader can see that the content of this report centres on the sensational — and the one really sensational Any reader can see that the content of this report centres John Burnie and his partner Ann Louise have been cruising the Caribbean island chain on their yacht Compounding the problem is the contentious editorial comment (from the Ed. in brackets) that such attacks Compounding the problem is the contentious editorial Our thanks to Jimmy Cornell for sending us notice of this attack. Our thanks to Jimmy Cornell for sending us notice of this – Ed.] [It is worth mentioning that such attacks are rare in Martinique long-term past association with the island of Guadeloupe. I noted this reported incident very quickly in view of my Even though he is awaiting reconstruction surgery on his face, Mike says “I am now able to see again and my Even though he is awaiting reconstruction surgery on His dinghy was found very soon after about 3 miles away and the police are studying the video surveillance foot- His dinghy was found very soon after about 3 miles away Editor’s note: We asked noonsite manager, Sue Richards, for her response, which follows. In spite of having ripped out the microphone from the fixed VHF set, Mike was able to use the cockpit mike to make the microphone from the fixed VHF set, Mike was able In spite of having ripped out At about 4am two large men swum out and boarded his boat, dragged him from his bunk, and assaulted him so swum out and boarded his boat, dragged him from At about 4am two large men Serious Attack and Robbery in Guadeloupe Serious Attack and Robbery on 2010-07-07 08:37:48 Created by val. Last modified Contributors: Topic: Safety Countries: Guadeloupe Posted 6th July 2010-07-06 while asleep on his yacht, circumnavigator), suffered a serious and brutal attack Last week, Mike Harker (a To illustrate this I copy the exact words published on noonsite immediately after an incident that happened in exact words published on noonsite immediately after To illustrate this I copy the Do the “writer/publisher” associations responsible for the content on noonsite realize the damage they can cause responsible for the content on noonsite realize Do the “writer/publisher” associations In recent years we have read numerous articles in various Caribbean “news portals” which give any reader a “news portals” which articles in various Caribbean we have read numerous In recent years CAN WE BELIEVE ALL CAN WE BELIEVE record, noonsite.com is run independently of World Cruising Club and uses exactly the same editorial policy andrecord, noonsite.com is run independently of World Cruising Club and uses exactly the same editorial policy checking procedures as were used by the previous editorial team, 80 percent of whom continue to work for noonsite. Regards, Sue Richards, Site Manager noonsite to disseminate information of value to cruisers everywhere. It is and will remain a free-to-use website, which puts to disseminate information of value to cruisers everywhere. It is and will remain a free-to-use website, which It the interests of cruisers first. Personal safety is a high priority for our site users, so we have to report incidents. is our intention to provide a forum for impartial advice and reports so that cruisers can form their own opinions. were horrific; in fact we have photographic evidence to prove this statement. was caused by mention of transfer to Guadeloupe in the initial report. Yes, an error occurred in our report for was caused by mention of transfer to Guadeloupe in the initial report. Yes, an error occurred in our report initial which we apologise. However, as soon as we were made aware of the error, the report was corrected. The report was received on July 6th; the correction was received on July 8th and a correction issued. happened, either via local press or other cruisers who witnessed the incident. We do not even publish anything happened, either via local press or other cruisers who witnessed the incident. We do not even publish anything and implicating a country unless we have confirmation. However, in this case both the source of the information having the subject of the attack were known to us and reliable. And, yes it was Jimmy who provided the details received an e-mail direct from Mike. he is recovering well), I feel it is important to state the facts as we have them and to reiterate the editorial policy he is recovering well), I feel it is important to state the facts as we have them and to reiterate the editorial of noonsite.com which your correspondent is questioning, in our view unjustly. and Security Net and others who have contributed to do they just post anything that is sent in to them? If so, this is a poor reflection on the new owners of noonsite, do they just post anything that is sent in to them? If really need to do rather better! They are, after all, the ones none other than World Cruising Club Ltd., and they to the Caribbean every year; they should take a very deep encouraging some 250 yachts to cross from Europe interest in the accuracy of what is reported about the islands they encourage their clients to visit. making spurious insinuations that one particular island is “safer” than another is very wrong, to my mind, and making spurious insinuations that one particular island reported are utterly incorrect. sets a dangerous precedent — even worse when key facts fact is that this did not in fact happen anywhere near Guadeloupe or Martinique — it actually took place in St fact is that this did not in fact happen anywhere near eventually change the facts in the report citing confusion, Martin. I will accept that noonsite (after a long delay) did they reported it would undoubtedly have left its mark etcetera. I regret however that headline “news” in the manner — and only in a detrimental manner to Guadeloupe. are rare in Martinique. So, was the attack in Martinique or Guadeloupe? And, having lived on a yacht in both are rare in Martinique. So, was the attack in Martinique are not “rare” in either island. islands for some years, I happen to know that attacks way, before blandly reporting sensational (and wrong) “facts” of any event? Guadeloupe is one of the largest islands in the Caribbean — without some sort of geographic reference this report Guadeloupe is one of the largest islands in the Caribbean has been a crime in New York”: the specific “where’ is par- by noonsite is highly diminished. It’s like saying “there I find the thin information particularly disturbing as it is ticularly pertinent to cruisers who need to be advised. cruising expert Jimmy Cornell. stated that the source is none other than the distinguished spirits are good because the doctors did a good job of repairing me and I am not dead yet!” spirits are good because the doctors did a good job of repairing age from the area. Dear the past six years. a Mayday call and using an air horn, attract the attention of a neighbouring boat. The police and medical help arrived air horn, attract the attention of a neighbouring boat. The a Mayday call and using an with severe facial injuries and a taken to hospital in Guadeloupe, where he remains, very quickly and Mike was cracked rib. severely that he became unconscious. They then tied him up and ransacked the boat, and using his dinghy, escaped They then tied him up and ransacked the boat, severely that he became unconscious. they could find. with all the valuables and electronics ‘WanderLust 3’. St. Martin in July this year: when they report incorrectly? Without proper journalistic control, they can severely prejudice the views of any Without proper journalistic control, they can severely when they report incorrectly? of cruising any particular area in the Caribbean. innocent reader as to the safety highly unsettling picture regarding attacks and robberies that take place on yachts throughout the Caribbean place on yachts throughout and robberies that take picture regarding attacks highly unsettling that a well respect- it extraordinary, however, waters. I do find those reported in Venezuelan chain — particularly on a yacht quite so can report a serious attack (www.noonsite.com) influential website like noonsite ed and highly be published crime in the Caribbean should do believe events involving recently done. Although I badly as was of noonsite’s reputation. should be far more accurately reported by a website immediately, surely the facts OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 1 90Mra / ‘4Yna,AC $69,000 $110,000 $89,900 $325,000 $30,000 $20,000 58’ 1974HatterasMY,Classic,DD’s,3strms 40’ 1997CarverMY,Cockpitfordiving,twinCrusaders $45,000 38’ 1977Chris-CraftCorinthian,roomy,cockpit 37’ 1986CMLTrawler,Greatliveaboard,needsengs. $80,000 50’ 1978NautorMSailer,refit,excellentcruiser 41’ 1980MorganO/I‘04Yanmar,A/C 38’ 1967LeComte,Northeast38,classic,excellentcond. 36’ 1980AlbinStratus,daysailbusinessseparate Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale 4 strms,excellentcharterboat All candidatesmustbelegaltoworkintheUS. 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St.MaartenOptimistChampionship.Yacht Club(SMYC), BahamasCruisingRally,VirginiatoAbacos,starts.www.carib1500.com 21stAnnualCaribbean1500,VirginiatoTortola,starts. AllSouls’Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces AllSaints’Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces WillyTVirginsCupRace,BVI.RBVIYC If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, 6hAna otAtnoCneTunmn,Jmia FULL 26thAnnualPortAntonioCanoeTournament,Jamaica. MOON 5hAlni al o ries aaist t ui,sat. 25thAtlanticRallyforCruisers,CanariestoSt.Lucia,starts. FULL MOON P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, FREE CaribbeanCompassOn-line 43rdBonaireInternationalSailingRegatta.www.bonaireregatta.org PeteShealsMemorialRace(IC24MatchRacing),Tortola. Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 otAtnoItrainlMri oraet aac. PortAntonioInternationalMarlinTournament,Jamaica. 3hAna oysCtFgt otVnDk,BI 14thWorldCreoleMusicFestival,Dominica.www.wcmfdominica.com 13thAnnualFoxy’sCatFight,JostVanDyke,BVI. J/24InvitationalChampionship,Barbados.http://sailbarbados.com J/24BarbadosMatchRacingChampionships.http://sailbarbados.com 7thCoursedel’AllianceRegatta,St.Maarten/St.Barths/Anguilla. CaribbeanRumandBeerFestival,Barbados. St.BarthCataCup(F18catamaranregatta).www.stbarthcatacup.com GoldenRockRegatta,St.MaartentoStatia. JollyHarbourYachtClubRegatta,Antigua. 20thArubaHeinekenCatamaranRegatta.www.arubaregatta.com 3rdHeinekenRegattaCuraçao.www.heinekenregattacuracao.com at thetimethisissueof www.caribbeancompass.com E-mail: [email protected] Drakes ChannelTreasureHunt. Independence Day,Dominica. BVI SchoolsRegatta. Independence Day,St.Vincent&theGrenadines.Publicholiday Round TortolaRace.RBVIYC IC24 NationsCup(tentative).RBVIYC TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com the nameandcontactinformationoforganizingbodyto so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. 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OCTOBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago