CARD #49 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CONTENTS OCTOBER 2018

30 36 44

FEATURES

30 An Experimental 36 A Woodworker’s 44 Getting Started Table Guide to Custom with CNC Born from the mind of a designer fi rebrand, Cabinets Patterns the author puts a built-to-last spin on a piece Building cabinets to match the existing style Pattern routing is an excellent opportunity of furniture meant for the masses. But fi rst, he of a period home can be tricky, but fear not. to incorporate CNC work, even if you don’t sets it on fi re. Nancy Hiller gives you real-world advice to own the machine. The author works with a BY CHRISTOPHER SCHWARZ build strong cabinets effi ciently. budding furniture maker to fabricate patterns BY NANCY R. HILLER for a full project build. BY TIM CELESKI

50 Handmade Cabinet A craftsman’s collection of deserves a well-crafted home. In this feature, the author builds a cabinet to store his ever-growing collection of saws and demonstrates some vital hand- joinery in the process. BY KIERAN BINNIE

50

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CARD #42 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CONTENTS OCTOBER 2018

16 20 24

REGULARS

6 All This Stuff 16 Cordless 24 Slöyd Knife OUT ON A LIMB and Sheath BY ANDREW ZOELLNER TOOL TEST ARTS & MYSTERIES BY THE EDITORS BY PETER FOLLANSBEE Joints 8 ONLINE u Tool Test Archives for Chairs We have many tool reviews available for free LETTERS 58 Definition on our website. FROM OUR READERS popularwoodworking.com/tools of Terms FLEXNER ON FINISHING BY BOB FLEXNER 12 All About Routers 20 Put Your Best Goodbye, Ego! TRICKS OF THE TRADE Foot Forward 64 FROM THE EDITORS DESIGN MATTERS Hello, Humility! END GRAIN u BY GEORGE R. WALKER ONLINE More Tricks BY MARCI CRESTANI Read some of our favorite tricks and see them in action in our Tricks videos. popularwoodworking.com/tricks

Number 241, October 2018. Popular Woodworking Magazine (ISSN 0884-8823,USPS 752-250) is published 7 times a year, February, April, June, August, October, November and December, which may include an occasional special, combined or expanded issue that may count as two issues, by F+W Media. Editorial and advertising offices are located at 10151 Carver Road, Suite #300, Blue Ash, OH 45242. Unsolicited manuscripts, photo- graphs and artwork should include ample postage on a self-addressed, stamped envelope (SASE); otherwise they will not be returned. Subscription rates: A year’s subscription (7 issues) is $24.95; outside of the U.S. add $7/year ■ Canada Publications Mail Agreement No. 40025316. Canadian return address: 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7 ■ Copyright 2018 by F+W Media, Inc. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mail- ing offices. Postmaster: Send all address changes to Popular Woodworking Magazine, P.O. 64 Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 Canada GST Reg. # R132594716 ■ Produced and printed in the U.S.A.

4 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 TABLE PHOTO: MARC CARTER / ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS

OUT ON A LIMB BY ANDREW ZOELLNER, EDITOR

OCTOBER 2018, VOL. 38, NO.5 popularwoodworking.com All This Stuff PUBLISHER ■ Allison Dolan EDITOR ■ Andrew Zoellner

SENIOR EDITOR ■ David Lyell

his summer, my girlfriend and SENIOR DESIGNER ■ Danielle Lowery

I moved from our one bedroom CONTENT DIRECTOR ■ Patty Craft apartment, where we lived for T ONLINE CONTENT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ■ eight years, to a big old house on the David Thiel other side of the city. Moving in and ONLINE CONTENT DEVELOPER ■ Jacob Motz of itself is stressful – renting a truck, WEB PRODUCER ■ Rachel Fountain calling in favors to friends and family CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ■ to help move and doing all of the fi xing Bob Flexner, Christopher Schwarz and cleaning and updating that hap- PROJECT ILLUSTRATOR ■ Donna R. Hill pens when you move to a new place. LETTERS & TRICKS ILLUSTRATOR ■ Martha Garstang Hill, garstang-hill.com But on the other side lies more space, a EDITORIAL CONTACT spot for a dedicated shop and a charm- [email protected] ing old house. 513-531-2690 Moving into that fi rst apartment furniture then. The kitchen at my new F+W Media, Inc. toget her felt ver y adult. It meant com- house also needs some work, and with CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ■ Gregory J. Osberg bining all of our stuff, making choices Nancy Hiller’s no-nonsense approach CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ■ Kenneth Kharbanda about what stays and goes and getting to building cabinets (page 36), I feel SVP, GENERAL MANAGER F+W FINE ART, WRITING, OUTDOORS furniture that fi t our new space. It’s that empowered to build my own cabinets & SMALL BUSINESS GROUP ■ Ray Chelstowski last one – getting furniture – that still exactly how I want them, to fit the MANAGING DIRECTOR, F+W INTERNATIONAL ■ gnaws at me. We were impatient and space I have (and without resorting James Woollam VP, GENERAL COUNSEL ■ Robert Sporn anxious to make our apartment seem to buying something inferior). VP, HUMAN RESOURCES, CUSTOMER SERVICE like a home, so we felt the need to fi ll We launched the new and improved AND TRADE ■ Gigi Healy it with stuff. popularwoodworking.com this sum- VP, MANUFACTURING & LOGISTICS ■ Phil Graham I have a love/hate relationship with mer, too, and the process reminded me physical object s. I much prefer to read a lot of moving. Do we keep this? Is this ADVERTISING ■ a physical book, feel the pages between functionality that was really important VP, ADVERTISING SALES Kevin Smith ADVERTISING DIRECTOR ■ Don Schroder my fi ngers, to sit in a chair and get lost a few years ago still necessary? What 331 N. Arch St., Allentown, PA 18104 in the text. But then I see a bookshelf should we do with these piles of old TEL. 610-821-4425; FAX. 610-821-7884 [email protected] full of books that I know I won’t have magazines? Can we make the new place ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR ■ time to read again, and I get anxious. better? For the most part, we kept it all Connie Kostrzewa Disposable pieces of furniture make (with a little bit of rearranging). And, TEL. 715-445-4612 x13883 [email protected] me anxious, too. we made room for more great content If I had my way, we’d just give away from our contributors (and added some NEWSSTAND SALES Contact Scott T. Hill our current crop of Ikea bookshelves new ones to the mix). [email protected] and leave our books in boxes until I To begin, you’ll see more videos make bookshelves. There’s nothing on the website, and more plans and SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES inherently wrong with our Ikea fur- projects from the archives of American For subscription inquiries, orders and address changes go to: www.popularwoodworking.com/customerservice niture, but I know that it won’t last Woodworker and Woodwork, too. U.S. Subscribers: 877-860-9140 and that I probably couldn’t repair it I’d also like to invite you to join the International Subscribers: 386-246-3369 if something breaks. That’s the exact community by making an account on Email: [email protected] NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION opposite of why I started woodwork- our website and commenting on our Curtis Circulation Co., 730 River Road, New Milford, NJ ing. I want to make stuff that stands content. We read every comment that 07646. PHONE: 201-634-7400. FAX: 201-634-7499. the test of time! Or at least a few moves. comes through and respond as time SHOPWOODWORKING.COM Visit ShopWoodworking.com for woodworking books, I wish I’d discovered Enzo Mari’s allows. Come be part of t he conversa- projects, plans and back issues of this magazine. designs 10 years ago. The table we fea- tion! Head to popularwoodworking. Copyright ©2018 by F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Popular Woodworking Magazine is a registered trademark of ture in this issue (page 30) is quick com/join.j F+W Media, Inc. to construct from inexpensive lum- ber, looks cool and will last decades – exactly what I needed from a piece of

6 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTO: JACOB MOTZ

LETTERS FROM OUR READERS

More Feedback on Learning Dowel Joints Happens Through Doing We would like to express our support to Popular Woodworking for publishing for Chairs the June 2018 End Grain column “Learning Happens Through Doing,” build furniture as a hobby and In contrast, nearly half of the surface and our appreciation to Jess Hirsch have used for some projects area of the holes drilled in the vertical for writing it. Iand mortise and tenons for some parts for the dowels are end grain, and As woodworkers and woodworking projects. I use a Dowelmax and have end grain doesn’t hold a glue bond as well instructors, we understand the impor- found it to be much easier and faster as, or as long as, side grain. Think of the tance of learning how to better attract than making mortises and tenons. The sides of straws versus the ends of straws. and include every individual who has dowel joints produced with this are There’s lots more possibility for contact an interest in working with wood. In often more accurate than the mortise in the sides of straws than in the ends of t his (and all) case s, listening to people and tenon joints I make. straws, which are largely air. who have life experiences that differ I would like to be able to confi dently But it’s relative. I have also made lots of from our own cannot be understated. use dowels on my next chair project, chairs using dowel joints with a jig similar The best teachers are also eager stu- and the Dowelmax website even has to yours. As you say, the choice between dents, and we welcome the opportunity plans for a chair using dowels for all dowels and mortise-and-tenons is often to learn how to be an ally in the effort joinery. However, books and articles based on time. My choices were based to, in Jess’s words, “work alongside one I have read dismiss the dowel joint on this also. another in a way that feels comfortable as being inferior and insufficient to Contrast the difference in strength for everyone”. withstand the stress endured by a and longevity of dowel joints with Kreg Peter Follansbee household chair and the authors of Pocket Hole joints. Why would a person Elia Bizzarri these articles suggest avoiding the choose a Pocket Hole? The same. Less Jeff lefkowtiz use of dowels for any joints in a chair. time and skill required. Glen Rundell I have seen Bob Flexner’s furniture I base my conclusion of how long Greg Pennington repair and refi nishing videos, and read dowel joints will last on the countless Tim Manney some of his articles. He has certainly doweled chairs I have reglued. Chair Peter Galbert repaired a lot of furniture and I would joints have to absorb a lot of pressures Curtis Buchanan value his opinion. from people sitting on them and leaning Are joints really back or scooting. Still, my experience I was a little taken aback at the content necessar y, or can dowels be used as an is that, if made well, the chairs should of a letter published in the August 2018 acceptable alternative for chair joints? last upwards of 50 years before issue entitled “Leave Politics Out of Also, wouldn’t modern glues be more working loose. (This differs from the Popular Woodworking.” The story of likely to produce stronger dowel joints life expectancy of many chairs made one person’s path, struggle and con- than ones made 50 or 60 years ago? in factories in the last three or four tributions to the woodworking com- And does the type of glue affect the decades, but the difference is due to the munity is only political when your strength of the joint significantly? dowels not being glued well.) worldview is too narrow to encompass Any advice is appreciated. Concerning glues, PVA (white and the experience of others. Don Polick yellow glues) have been around since I’m glad you published an article Hinckley, Ohio the early 1950s. Before then, hide glue from a different voice, and I hope Hi, Don, was the common glue used. By “modern” you continue to produce content that The difference in long-term strength of a glues, I hope you’re referr ing to PVAs and is inclusive rather than exclusive. I’m mortise-and-tenon joint and a dowel joint not the more recent epoxy, gorilla and also glad you published that letter. is relative. A mortise-and-tenon joint that similar glues. These are not reversible, Without it, I wouldn’t have even is made well (that is, tight wood-to-wood so I would never use them on anything I considered the possibility that you’d contact) is stronger than a dowel joint want to be able to reglue because the glue be getting negative feedback. because there’s lots more side-grain (or can’t be removed (to achieve clean wood) I don’t care for articles on power long-grain) contacting the sides of the except by scraping, which can’t help but tools. However, they don’t make me tenons up against the vertical sides of remove some of the wood, making for a angry. Not every article is for every the mortises in the stiles — that is, the weak joint. reader. I’d venture to say that those legs of the chairs. Bob Flexner, contributor who are so incensed by an article of CONTINUED ON PAGE 10

8 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #28 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM LETTERS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 8 this nature are the ones who most politely but firmly to detractors. Keep being turned and worse yet having the need to be reading it. up the good work. tool torn out of his hand to fl y some- Jeremy German Matt Miller, where, hopefully not the face. Having Baltimore, Maryland New York, New York the elbows in also means less muscle fatigue which can lead to accidents. I was amused to read Lee Starling’s Turning Safety Reminder Phil Rasmussen letter to the editor about Jess Hirsch’s I really enjoyed David Lyell’s article Hendersonville, North Carolina End Grain piece. I thought it was fairly on making a Shaker-inspired settee benign — that women are under- intheAugust2018issueofPopular represented and met with a fair degree Woodworking.Itwaswelldocumented of condescension in the woodworking and clearly explained. However the community should come as no surprise lead cover photograph is bothersome. to anyone. I agree that PW should not When I am teaching woodworkers get into politics — but I didn’t read aspectsofaproject,Ifirmlystresssafety that piece as political. Your reply that aboveallelse.WhileDavidiswearing all should feel welcome was absolutely safetyglasses,afaceshieldwouldhave right on target, and was exactly how I been better. Customer Service interpreted Jess’s article. Usingalatheisarelativelyquiet How can I contact customer service with questions regarding my subscription, including a lost or I can’t help but wonder where Mr. process compared to that of a , damaged issue? Starling’s indignant reaction was or planer. However the noise lev- Visit popularwoodworking.com/customerservice. Or write to Popular Woodworking Magazine, P.O. Box when the American Legacy Firearms elwhenturningwoodaveragesaround 421751, Palm Coast, FL 32142-1751. Or, if you prefer ad ran back at the end of 2017. That 80dB. While OSHA considers noise the telephone, call 1-877-860-9140 (U.S. & Canada), 386-246-3369 (International) and a customer service was loaded with political commentary levels below 85 dB to be safe, 80 dB is representative will be happy to help you. aimed directly at right-wing fringe too close to this limit. While turning When does my subscription expire? groups. I am glad to note that the ad noise will often spike, the fact is that The date of your subscription expiration appears on your magazine mailing label, above your name. The date hasn’t run again. Keep up the good turning is not a short time activity and indicates the last issue in your subscription. work. I love PW. long term exposure to even relatively Can I get back issues of Popular Woodworking Magazine? Robert Stickney low noise levels can adversely effect Back issues are available while supplies last. Visit New Orleans, Louisiana hearing and health. Consequently, popularwoodworking.com/backissues. Or if you know the exact month and year of the issue you want, call our David should also be wearing some customer service department toll-free at 855-840-5118 Lee Starling’s letter in the August form of hearing protection. to order. 2018 issue prompted me to go back AnothersafetyrulethatIstress What if I want more information about the projects or tools I read about in Popular Woodworking and reread Jess Hirsch’s June 2018 when turning is to keep the elbows Magazine? article about Women’s Woodshop. closetothebody.David’srightelbow For all editorial questions, please write to Popular Woodworking Magazine, 10151 Carver Road, Suite 300, My reaction was the same as when I is away from his side, resulting in less Blue Ash, OH 45242. Or send an email to read it the fi rst time: I loved it. control of the gouge he is using. Lack of [email protected]. Does Popular Woodworking Magazine offer group I also appreciated your response to controlcanresultindamagingtheitem discounts? Lee and your stance that inclusivity Group discounts are available by special arrangement with the publisher. For more details, send an email to only makes us stronger. Debbie Paolello at [email protected] or I’ve seen firsthand the gender call 513-531-2690 x11296. dynamics that discourage women and ON INE EXTRAS Our Privacy Promise to You persons from other under-represented We make portions of our customer list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and groups from joining our craft. I’ve been We want to hear from you. services we believe you may enjoy. If you do not want to to woodworking classes and witnessed receive offers and/or information, please let us know by Popular Woodworking Magazine wel- contacting us at: the female students getting “extra help” comes comments from readers. Published List Manager, F+W Media, Inc. from their neighbors. I’ve battled it correspondence may be edited for length 10151 Carver Road, Suite 300 myself when my wife joins me in or style. All published letters become Blue Ash, OH 45242 the workshop, and I detect that my the property of Popular Woodworking Safety Note Magazine. Safety is your responsibility. Manufacturers place safety instruction is becoming patronizing. Send your questions and comments devices on their equipment for a reason. In many photos The bias is real, and talking about it is via email to [email protected], or you see in Popular Woodworking Magazine, these have been removed to provide clarity. In some cases we’ll use essential to addressing it. by mail to 10151 Carver Road, Suite 300, an awkward body position so you can better see what’s Thank you for your courage to Cincinnati, OH 45242. being demonstrated. Don’t copy us. Think about each publish Jess’s piece and responding procedure you’re going to perform beforehand.

10 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #83 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM TRICKS OF THE TRADE FROM THE EDITORS Our Favorite Router Tips and Tricks R arely a day goe s by when we aren’t using a router for some aspect of a project. We’ve been building all kind s of jigs and t r y ing new ideas (and ideas recent ly unearthed from our archives). A router is truly one of the most versatile tools in the shop, and we just had to share these tips from the archives with you.

Router You can use a router to joint two boards at once. This is a really handy trick if you don’t have a long-bed jointer or you don’t have a jointer at all, and you’re working with really long stock. The trick is to rout both boards at the same time, so the edges mirror each other. Bowed or not, they’ll always fi t tightly. To set this trick up, mill three spacer blocks to 11⁄16" thick. Clamp the boards to a pair of sawhorses with the spacers between them. Chuck a 3⁄4" bit in your router. Clamp the guide board so the bit takes an equal amount off both boards, about 1⁄32". Ride the router tightly against the guideboard, removing the spacers as needed. Any deviation or wandering from the router will be mirrored on the opposite board, providing a perfect fi t.

Offset Router Base By simply adding a custom, shop-made base to your router, you can adjust your cut distance from the . A turn (or t wo, or t hree) of your router and you’ve set a new distance. This kind of base, with different offsets, can be used for cutting dadoes and , as well as stepped rabbets. You could also make one with 1⁄32" graduations for sneaking up on cuts and fi ne fi tting dadoes.

12 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARTHA GARSTANG HILL CARD #124 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #126 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #60 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CARD #56 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM TRICKS OF THE TRADE CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20

Router Scarfing Jig Boatbuildersoftenneedtojoinboards The illustration shows 3⁄4" stock end to end to make longer planks. beingjoinedwithaslopeof8to1, Insteadofabuttjointtheymakealong which gives an overlap of 6". Position taperoneachboardandoverlapthe the plank so the end to be joined is ends.Thisiscalledascarfjoint.One flushwiththeendofthejigandwedge ortwoscarfjointsareeasilyplaned it securely. Make one pass with the byhand,butforanyquantityit’swell router using a straight-flute plunge bit worthspendinghalfanhourtomake to remove the bulk of material. Then this simple jig. resettherouterforasecond,lightercut, stopping just short of a feather edge at theplankend.Youmaywishtoclean upthescarfwithafewpassesofalow- angle block .

No-Fuss Mortising Jig Want a dirt-simple mortising jig? This onetakesjustafewminutestoput together, not the whole weekend. You will need a plunge router equipped with an edge guide. First,clampa3"-to4"-squareblock to your bench. Fasten a 5"-long to its side, near one end. Butt your workpiece up to the stop block andclampyourworkpiecetothelarge block. (A large handscrew is ideal for thisjobbecauseithasadeepreach.) Minimize Router Burns Layoutyourmortiseonthework- Endgrainburnseasilyonmapleand piece and adjust the router’s edge guide cherry,andthoseburnsarehardto sothebitcutswithinthelayoutmarks. remove. Here is an easy solution that Finally, add two stop blocks on top of removesthoseunsightlyburnswithout the big block to limit the back-and- requiringthatyouadjustthebit’sheight forth movement of your router. These or fuss with an edge guide. blocks define the mortise’s length. If Before routing, three layers of your mortises are centered, go ahead masking tape on the bottom of the andcutallofthem.Iftheyareoff- board’sedge,wherethebit’sbearing set, simply change the fence setting rides.Thenmaketwopasses.Thefirst as needed. pass produces the rough profile, when burning is most likely to occur. After makingtheinitialpass,removethetape androutagain.Thisveryfinesecond pass removes all but the worst burns. If this method still leaves scorches, your feed rate is too slow or you need a new router bit.

14 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #118 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM TOOL TEST Milwaukee Cordless Chainsaw No gas, no fumes and plenty of power for .

made t he sw itch to batter y-powered for my tree service work Iin 2011 when pro-dut y models fi rst became available, and I never looked back. Battery power has replaced 2-stroke fuel on my jobs for all but the largest removals, and also replaced corded electric power at the shop for all but the longest rips when . As with many other tools, the grab- and-go convenience of cordless makes the choice easy. And compared to gas, there are appreciable benefi ts with re- duced noise, toxic exhaust fumes, small engine maintenance and fuel hassles. It’s also nice to have a saw you can use indoors when needed. Milwaukee is the latest manufactur- A great roughing saw. An electric chainsaw er to come out w it h a batter y-powered is a great tool for turners, green woodworkers chainsaw, and it’s part of the same 18- and anyone who doesn’t want to deal with gas and engines for sizing and roughing out volt platform as their most common raw logs. cordless tools. The compatibility with other batteries and tools is a nice fea- Toevaluatecuttingspeedandrun- ture. Many similar chain saws are part time, I crosscut a freshly felled of higher voltage outdoor power equip- trunk 7 1/2 inches in diameter – sized ment lines so the battery pack you buy about half the usable length of the with those saws has limited uses. saw’s bar. Using Milwaukee’s new 12 I process interesting tree pieces a size I use frequently, and the saw had Ah battery pack, which is optimized into unusual and sculptural decent balance and handling. It’s a bit for the tool’s brushless motor, I made parts, so I rip a lot of logs, tree crotch- heavy at 14 pounds, but 3.35 pounds 54 half cuts and timed the fi rst several es and curved branches down their of that is the monster battery pack. I at an average 5.43 seconds. With a 9 Ah length. Since these pieces are usually liked the steel bucking spikes and didn’t high den sit y pack it also ran st rong and too unwieldy to run through the band mind that adjusting the bar required almost as fast at 5.68 second s. However, saw, a chainsaw is the tool for the job. a wrench, but I wished the tool had a with a standard size 4 Ah pack, I only After fi lling the Milwaukee saw with motor brake. And while I’m complain- made 8 cut s at an average 7.43 second s biodegradable bar and chain oil (well ing, the acute angle of the clutch cover before the battery cells overheated and worth the cost—trust me), I put it to (seemingly designed for cosmetic ap- cut out. work sectioning up various hardwoods peal) trapped shavings readily behind So though this saw fi ts M18 battery into rustic bench parts. The 16" bar is the sprocket and was diffi cult to clear. packs of all capacities and ages, buy- While not as fast under load as the ing the saw tool-only and relying on more powerful saw I usually rely on, any old M18 packs you already have M18 FUEL Brushless overall the Milwaukee proved to be a around won’t cut it. For satisfactory Chain Saw very gutsy saw, capable of powering performance with full-speed cutting Milwaukee Tool ■ milwaukeetool.com through wood with the bar fully bur- free from stalling, the large 9 Ah or Street price ■ $400 with 12 Ah battery ied. That is, as long as I had the proper 12 Ah packs are the key. and charger battery pack installed. — Michael Springer

16 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR CARD #114 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM TOOL TEST

Bosch Cordless Palm Edge Router

There’s something to be said about In my testing, I had no issue with the form of a tool that impacts your de- irregular edges due to tipping and sire to pick it up and use it – e specially found the micro adjust to be convenient when the form has been designed to and simple. A black button releases a address a particular process. And that’s coupling from the adjustment thread what initially caught my eye with this and the black plastic nut dials in the Bosch router. depth. Bit changes were easy with the The Bosch 12-volt palm edge router prominent red spindle locking bar. is designed for edge work, with its elon- And even t hough it only use s a 12-volt gated base plate and a grip that centers battery, it had plenty of power for all your hand directly over the bit. The of the edge routing and trimming I do form provides a degree of balance that is over the course of a project. uncommon to most ot her t r im routers I tested the advertised drop sens- in this category. The traditional barrel ing technology in our offi ce and was shape of routers predisposes the user surprised to fi nd that the router had to tip the tool when uneven pressure to hit the fl oor with a generous amount is applied. of force before the tool would turn off automatically. GKF12V-25 Max Palm And you really can’t beat the con- Edge Router venience of a cordless router. Just like lying on its side, this router can com- Bosch Tools ■ boschtools.com most shops today use cordless , fortably fi t in any toolbox drawer, ready Street price ■ from $150 (tool only) a cordless router is a great addition to for edge work. your arsenal. At just over 3" tall when — David Lyell Morakniv Set

If you’re looking to jump on the Slöyd spoons, refi ning bowls and shallow bandwagon and start carving spoons surface carvings. Its single-edged and and other wooden objects, this set of made for right-handers making pull two knives is a great starting point. And cuts (sorry, southpaws). they’re made in Sweden, where Slöyd Both knives come with roughly- is st ill a part of t he school cur r iculum. finished handles. They felt a First, you get a straight carving knife little bit small in my meaty mitts, so (Morakniv’s wood carving 120 model). re-handling the knives is in my future. Its thin blade is about 21⁄2" long and Because the handles are wood, you can made from laminated steel. It comes also shape them to your liking. The razor sharp out of the box and held its package comes with a plastic sheath for edge well through a variety of carving the straight knife, too, but mine broke tasks in both green and dry hard wood. after some particularly hard use in the It’s stout enough to do some roughing . I wasn’t too upset, though, as work, but it really excels at detailing a custom wood and bark sheath is an and refi ning shapes. excellent next project (see page 24). The hook knife (model 164) has a This set of two carving knives retails 1⁄2" internal radius that works well for for $60, saving you about $20 versus buying them separately. That means Wood Carving Set you have enough leftover to pick up Morakniv ■ morakniv.se some sharpening supplies. — Andrew Zoellner Street price ■ $60

18 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 ROUTER PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURER / KNIVES PHOTO: ANDREW ZOELLNER CARD #46 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #52 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CARD #35 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM DESIGN MATTERS BY GEORGE R. WALKER Put Your Best Foot Forward Understanding the details of a design.

or years, I gave little thought to what constituted good design Faside from holding strong opin- ions about what I liked or disliked. A graceful could be- dazzle me, but if pressed to explain why I found the chair beautiful, I struggled to fi nd words to express myself. It was the same situation with furniture that set off my ugly meter. The siren would go off in my head w it h light s fl ashing and horns blowing, but I was dumbfound- ed to explain what details tripped the alarm. On a practical level, that meant that if I wanted to make even a small adjustment to a design, I was stumbling Find the sweet spot. Finding the sweet proportion on this trestle table foot is a good way to train in the dark guessing without any confi - your eye. dence at what was wrong, unsure if I was moving in a positive direction. opinions will refl ect a truer grasp of employed to tie all the parts in that It’s good to begin your design jour- what works or doesn’t work in a design, structure into a harmonious whole. ney by focusing on your strong likes and that’s a huge step forward in your Drawing combines those two skills and dislikes. That inner sense, your design abilities. It means less guessing in rough sketches and more fi nished gut reaction to design, is one of your in the dark. And because your opinions renderings to help visualize and sort most powerful tools. The skills needed become more defined, when you do through ideas. to become a profi cient designer require begin to home in on a sweet spot, you’ll Of these three skills, mastering pro- leveraging your inner likes and dislikes feel sure of the direction you’re taking. portions is the one that will help you with solid facts about design. As you de- most to harness your powerful inner velop design skills you’ll likely become Does This Go With That? sense. At the simplest level, proportions more opinionated, even downright cur- In any creative endeavor there is a set express how one part relates to another mudgeonly, but in a good way. Your of foundational skills that provide part and how that initial part relates structure to express your idea. For a to the whole. We are acutely aware of painter, those foundational skills might proportions in our own human form, be learning about the color wheel or un- and patterns of proportions in our own derstanding value (light and shadow). bodies. This understanding spills over For a musician, it might be learning into how we make judgments about the scales and understanding tempo. thickness of a chair seat or the width Traditionally, in the building arts, of a door panel. the important foundational skills are mastering proportions, learning Patterns of Proportions to draw and developing a working We respond to proportions on two knowledge of artisan geometry. Artisan levels. On the first level, we look at geometry is not some fancy math, but a individual parts and compare how they practical understanding about how to relate to ot her nearby part s. Wit h small Mind your neighbors. small parts construct simple shapes using points parts like a drawer pull, we might com- with the nearest neighbor. How does this pull and lines. Geometry is used to imagine pare it to the height of the drawer it’s compare with the height of the drawer? a structure, and then proportions are attached to. It wouldn’t help much to CONTINUED ON PAGE 22

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CARD #93 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CARD #35 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM DESIGN MATTERS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20

Test and refi ne. Sneak up on the height of the foot until you hit the sweet spot. Use division. To size the upper bracket, divide and then divide again.

the leg. All of these design elements compare the proportions of the base are telling a story that the viewer can with the height of the whole trestle read with his eyes. The elements say, assembly. Since dividing by four was this is the beginning of this form, and way too heavy, I tried dividing by six. here is where the form transitions to Then dividing by eight and then by theground.Themaindifferencebe- nine,whichdidn’tworkeither.Formy tween these design elements is that eye,thesweetspotwasdividingby10. thecarvingpointsoutthebeginning Here’s a tip on proportioning the withastrongvoicewhilethebandof upperbracketonthistrestleassembly. whispers. Youcouldmakeitthesameheightas We’re doing the exact same thing the lower foot since it’s hidden from when we employ a base moulding on view. However, it will complement the A multi-purpose foot. This carving makes a acabinet.We’regivingitadistinctbe- entire assembly by making it lighter by bold visual beginning, anchoring the form to ginning,andhopefullyagoodone.The decreasingitsheight.Youoftenseethis the fl oor and telling a story. trickypartisgettingthatbaseorfootto on the rails of windows or doors; the harmonizewiththestructureaboveit. upperrailisreducedinheight,giving comparethedrawerpullonthebottom it a lighter feel toward the top. of a chest with the crown moulding at Sizing a Trestle Foot Traditionalartisanshadaquickway thetopofthepieceanymorethanif Here’sadrawingIworkeduptosizethe to proportion this top component in wecomparedthesizeofournosewith footsectionforasmalltrestletable.It comparison to the bottom. Since the our big toe. consists of a base or foot (beginning), bottom is sized by dividing the over- On the second level, we compare a support structure (middle) and a top all height by 10, simply dividing the how major parts relate to the whole bracket (ending). Before I make any remaining height above the foot again piece. We might consider how the decision about the final contours of by 10 gives you a top bracket that’s just thicknessofatablelegcomparesto thesecomponents,Iblocktheminwith slightly less in height than the bottom the entire table. This comparison is simplerectanglestoworkouttheoverall foot. completely subjective. A country farm proportions. tablemaycallforastouterlegthan In this case, I’m focusing on the George Walker is the co-author of two design books what’s appropriate for a more formal height of the base and how it comple- and writer of the By Hand & Eye blog tablewiththesameoveralldimensions. mentsthestructureaboveit.Idothat (with Jim Tolpin). bytakingtheentireheightofthetrestle AGoodBeginning and dividing it into equal parts, then ONLINE EXTRAS A practical exercise that helps us assigningoneparttotheheightofthe For links to all these online extras, go to: understand proportions is sizing a foot foot. If I wanted to have a stout foot, I ■ popularwoodworking.com/oct18 for a table leg. Furniture often has some might divide the height into four parts BLOG: Read more from George R. Walker on sort of foot to establish a beginning and give the bottom fourth to the foot. his By Hand & Eye blog with Jim Tolpin. to the form. There’s a wide variety in Yikes, that’s way too clunky, but I’m About This Column traditional designs from the boldly giving that inner sense of proportion Design Matters dives into carved ball and claw to much more in my head somet hing to actually com- the basics of proportions, subdued feet that can be as simple as pare with. forms, contrast and compo- a small tapered cuff or even a narrow More importantly, by dividing the sition to give you the skill to tackle furniture design challenges with confi dence. band of inlay marking the bottom of overall height, I’m making my eye

22 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #5 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #101 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM ARTS & MYSTERIES BY PETER FOLLANSBEE Slöyd Knife and Sheath Hone your skills and customize your tools.

have used a slöjd (or slöyd) knife for decades. Fitting them with a handle Iof your ow n making is prett y simple, and quite rewarding. You can tailor the handle to suit your hands and /or your eyes. I start with a knife blade made by Morakniv. They have several sizes and shapes, and their #106 is a favorite of many carvers the world over. I use the laminated steel version; it’s easy to sharpen, but holds an edge just fi ne. I’ve made handles from many dif- ferent woods, often using figured . The past few knives I’ve carved designs in the handles, so I want no fi gure to compete with the patterns I’ve planned. I’ve gone for softer hardwoods like birch, or in the case of the knives here, butternut. The stock I use is riven and air-dried. Cut the handle blank just shorter than the knife’s tang. I lay out centerlines around the blank horizontally and vertically. I start with stock that is oversized and only roughly shaped. Stand it up in a and bore a hole through it from end to Make the opening. I use an egg-beater Shape the handle. Pare the handle to shape end. This hole matches the small end of and eyeball its relationship to the centerlines now. I keep a swelling at the mid-point and the tang. I come in from each end and marked on the blank. Then I mark the outline taper the handle to each end. I begin by hope to meet in the middle. I trace the of the fl ared tang on the handle blank. I tilt beveling the corners off then evenly pare tang’s outline on the side of the handle. the bit over as I crank the drill to widen the every surface. The goal is to make the handle opening for the tang. comfortable and no bigger than it needs to be. Using the same bit, I bore holes above and below this fi rst hole, to widen the opening at the top of the handle. Once I’ve widened the holes enough I grip the blade in locking pliers and drive the handle on from below. I sit the blade in a dog hole on the bench for this step. To shape the handle, I work around the blank evenly. Start by beveling each corner, working from the mid-point Assemble. I start with the pliers on the upper toward the handle, then reverse things end of the tang, and drive the handle most of the way on. Then I wrap the blade with duct Shape with another knife. Lightly pare with and cut down toward the end. I start tape and reposition the pliers for the last 1⁄2" the slöyd knife. Keep alert to not hit metal with a long-bladed paring , some- or so. Drive the handle on so the tang exits with metal. times with its down to get a bit of just a bit at the bottom end of the handle. a scooping cut. Keep testing the way

CONTINUED ON PAGE 26

24 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR CARD #1 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #92 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM ARTS & MYSTERIES CONTINUED FROM PAGE 24

the handle feels in different grips. It’s easy to leave it too thick and bulky. Fine-tune the shape with a slöyd knife. In all this work, be extra careful not to hit the blade with your edge tools, it’s bad for both of them. Mount the knife blade in a machin- ists’ vise and gently peen the protrud- ingtangacrosstheendofthehandle. Slice the bark. Slice through the bark, just Glancingblowsfromthehammerwill along one outside length. spread the tang. You can drive small wedges into the spaces around the blade. Make the wedges slight enough so they will not split the handle. While you’re working thatspot,youcanalsolightlybevel around the ends of the handle. Tomakeasheathfortheknife,I usestripsofbirchbark.Otherbark– A little metal work. Peening the tang across , basswood/linden, and the end of the knife handle is as much metal more–hasallbeenusedinoneplace Weave. Start the weaver under one part of the work as I want to do. oranother.Ihavealsousedbasket slit section. Wrap it over the next part, then push it in tight to the bottom end of the sheath. splintsofbothashandoakforthe same sort of sheath. Make a strip wider than the blade, andfourtimesitslength.Folditin half, and then fold the ends back to themiddle,inonthemselves.Next,slit one outside section in half. This slit just runs from one fold to the middle fold. It helps simplify the weaving. Theweaverisalongthinstripof bark,withoneendtaperedinwidth. Fold up the sheath so it’s closed, and No glue required. I don’t bother gluing the slide the tapered weaver under one half blade into the handle, nor the wedges, but Fold and weave. Now it becomes clear how gluing won’t hurt. The bevel around the of the slit section at the bottom of the the inside of the sheath is created with this handle’s end is carefully cut with the tip sheath. Wrap it over the next bit, and folding and weaving. of a slöyd knife. then wind it into the opening on the other side of the sheath. Weaving proceeds inside and out, ONLINE EXTRAS overonesection,underthenext.Alter- For links to all online extras, go to: nate over/under and inside/outside as ■ popularwoodworking.com/oct18 youwraparoundthesheath.Pullthe ARTICLE: “Spoon Carving” weaver snug, but not too tight. Taper About this Column theweaveragainasyougettothetop, “Arts & Mysteries” refers to the contract andpullitintighttofinish. between an appren- tice and master. The Peter Follansbee has been involved in traditional craft 18th-century master since 1980. Read more from him on period tools and was contractually other topics at pfollansbee.wordpress.com. obligated to teach apprentices trade secretsofagivencraft(andtheappren- Bark. The yellow side of the bark forms both tice was expected to preserve those the inside and outside of the sheath. “mysteries”).

26 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #47 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

CARD #50 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM

An ExpERimENTAL Table BY CHRISTOPHER SCHWARZ

Designer Enzo Mari gave the world this design (and many others). But are they worth building?

30 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY AUTHOR, ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIELLE LOWERY hen my grandparents mar- was common for it to cost quite a bit. Furthermore, would people who ried before World War II, In 1974, Italian designer Enzo Mari built the pieces learn something from Wt hey bought a dining room observed how furniture was becoming the construction process? Would they set that cost several months of my less expensive and less durable. And gain an appreciation for things that are grandfather’s salary as a paper sales- so, he created an experiment that we well-made after having made some- man. At t hat t able, Popo and Grandma can still hear echoes of today. The ex- thing themselves? raised my father and uncle. And our periment developed into a book called This, according to Mari, is an impor- family ate at that table every time “Autoprogettazione?” (Corraini), and tant aspect of design: “Design is only we visited my grandparents until they it was a set of free plans for furniture de sign if it communicate s knowledge.” died and the table was sent to who that could be built using a handsaw I’ve often wondered about the pieces knows where. and a hammer. in “Autoprogettazione?” Could an expe- Though this behavior might sound Mari wondered: Would people ac- rienced woodworker learn something crazy now in the age of disposable fl at- cept these pieces of utilitarian furniture from his designs? This year I decided pack furniture, my grandparents were into their homes? What would the re- to fi nd out. typical for their day. Before the 1950s, action be to a series of sticks that were it was common for your furniture to nailed together but served perfectly well Tavola Quattro stay with you your entire life. It also as a bookcase, bed, dining table or chair? This dining table, called Tavola Quatt ro, is larger t han it look s. Wit h a top that’s 55” , you can seat eight around it, thanks to the clever base that works like the truss on a bridge. The mater ial required to build it is minimal. If you have a table saw, you can easily cut the material from fi ve 15⁄8" x 111⁄4" x 12' pieces of construction lumber (total cost: $80). To assemble the table, you can use nails or wood screws. I planed all the pieces down to 1" thick and used #8 x 15⁄8" screws. If you don’t have a planer, use #8 x 2" screws. Cost of the screws: $12. My fi nish is shou sugi ban, a char red fi nish popular in Japane se architecture for making building materials fi re- and bug-resistant. I charred the wood with a propane torch, brushed off the soot and then applied a fi nish of linseed oil and beeswax. In the end, this might just be my fastest time ever for building a dining table for eight; only 10 hours of work. But was it a waste of time?

Parts & Fire Thisprojectisabitunusualinthatit’s Sorry, Mari. Note the internal bracing in this drawing. Mine are upside down best to cut all the pieces to size accord- from this. I could easily change it, but I quite like my mistake. ingtothecuttinglist,finishthem,then assembletheproject.Normallyit’sbest to use a cutting list as a rough road map andmakeadjustmentsasyougo.For thisproject,however,cutupallthe parts, letter them and stack them in piles. Ifyoudon’twanttousetheshousugi ban finish, apply your finish of choice at this point using , shellac,

popularwoodworking.com ■ 31 , whatever. Or get out the propane weed burner and prepare for a blast (of heat, that is). Propane weed burners are cheap tools that typically cost about $35 to $50. They att ach to a propane t ank such as one that fuels your gas grill, and they work like a fl amethrower. The wood doesn’t stand a chance. I rested my project parts on cin- derblocks and blasted them with the propane-fueled fl ame. Keep a squirt bottle of water (and a fi re extinguisher) on hand to douse any fl are-ups. After charring the parts, use a stiff- bristled brush to scour the wood. This removes the excess soot so it won’t end up on your hands and clothes when you use the table. Add any topcoat fi nish over the wood. I used Allbäck Linseed Oil Wax (available from Swede Paint Enterprises, swedepaint.ca). With the Flattish. The keep the boards of the tabletop in line. They weren’t shown on Mari’s parts fi nished, it’s time to start assem- original plans but were present on the pieces built by him and his students. You need them; bling the table (what, already?). otherwise the top will behave like a bunch of unruly diving boards.

First the Top The top is easy to assemble; there are no edge joints. Butt the edges of the boards together, drill clearance and pilot holes through your battens and screw the battens to the underside of the top. To help accommodate wood move- ment, I reamed out the clearance holes in the battens a little to allow the screws to pivot when the top boards shrink and expand. Set the top aside and make sure all your other parts are stacked and labeled with the appropriate letters as indicated in the cutting list.

Say hello to my little friend. A propane weed burner, at left, pumps out 500,000 BTUs and gets the job done quickly and inexpensively.

Black but clean. Keep brushing the wood until you can touch its surface without turning your fi ngers black (below). Then apply a topcoat fi nish to the parts.

An odd way to work. Normally I wouldn’t cut and fi nish all my parts before starting a project, but this table is different. It’s more like a factory-built item with standardized and interchangeable parts.

32 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 55" A - Top

33⁄4" B -Battens E - Horizonal Brace F -DiagonalBrace

71⁄2" 28.5" 121⁄8" C

H - Diagonal Brace

E

35⁄8" C -Legs&Feet 271⁄2"

FRONT PROFILE

7" 711⁄16" B -TopBattens

D - Horizontal Brace

F -DiagonalBrace 81⁄8" G -VerticalBrace

D

SIDE PROFILE 175⁄8"

Supplies Needed Enzo Mari’sTavolaQuattro

❏ #8 x 15⁄8" screws (Planer not available? Use #8x2"screws) NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) TWL ❏ 50mm square-shank nails (made by Rivierre Nails) ❏ 5 A Top 1 11 55 ❏ Propane weed burner ❏ 4 B Top battens 1 2 54 ❏ Propane tank ❏ 1⁄ ❏ Squirt bottle of water 6 C Legs & feet 1 2 27 2 ❏ Fire extingusher ❏ 4 D Horizontal brace 1 2 215⁄8 ❏ 4 Horizontal brace 1 2 195⁄8 ❏ Stiff bristled brush E ❏ 1 ❏ Top coat fi nish (such as Allbäck Lineseed Oil Wax) 8 F Diagonal brace 1 2 12 ⁄4 ❏ 2 G Vertical brace 1 2 113⁄4 ❏ Recommended: MDF for making spacer jigs ❏ 4 H Diagonal brace 1 2 85⁄8

popularwoodworking.com ■ 33 Assemble the Ends of the Base To make the ends easy to assem- ble, I recommend making four jigs from MDF that will space the parts accurately as you screw them to their neighbors. Make one spacer jig that is 3 5⁄8" x 24". This will go between the foot of the table’s base (C) and the hori- zontal brace (E). The second spacer jig is 3 3⁄4" x 24" and goes between the horizontal brace (E) and a top (B). The third spacer is 7 1⁄2" x 24" and goes between the legs of the table (C). Lay the parts on top of one another as shown in the drawings and photos, using the spacer jigs to keep things square. Then screw the foot, braces and top battens to the legs. After screwing the horizontal and vertical pieces together, add the four diagonal braces (F at the top, and H at the fl oor). To be effective, these braces need to contact the legs, plus the un- derside of the top and the feet. This Spacers at work. The MDF spacer jigs allow you to line all your parts up without a lot of measuring. Mostly you are ensuring all the parts are centered on the legs. diagonal bracing gives the table base its strength. After building one end assembly, build the second identically.

Connect the Assemblies The two end assemblies are joined by four horizontal braces (D), which nest in corners created by the legs and the horizontal braces on the ends (E). To assemble the base, clamp the four braces (D) to the end assemblies. Screw them to the legs. Now there is some internal bracing to install in the open spaces between the end assemblies. The vertical and diagonal braces here also keep the base from racking. Use the drawings as a guide. Note that I made a small error in my version of this table. My braces are arranged like the letter “W.” On Mari’s table they are arranged like an “M.” I don’t think it makes a difference.

Add the Top EXPLODED VIEW The last step is to attach the top to the assembled base. I opted to use 50mm square-shanked nails made by Rivierre Nails (available from Lee Valley Tools or Lie-Nielsen Tool- works). These nails hold like the

34 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 dickens and look nice, too. Drill pi- lot holes and the top to the table base below.

And in the End After I completed the table, I was sur- prised by how much I liked it, despite the fact that it looked like a popsicle- stick craft-fair item. To my eye, its pro- portions are excellent. Thanks to IKEA, the table doesn’t look all that strange (though I doubt my grandparents would have liked it). It is shocking how quick and easy it is to build. All the cuts are square. All the joints are quickly in- stalled fasteners. The biggest question is: Will it last? Are the screws stout enough to prevent the table from swaying (or worse) after a dozen Thanksgivings? There is only one way to fi nd out: It has to be used That escalated quickly. The base comes together fast when you screw the four horizontal braces and abused by a young family. (D) in place. If you don’t have clamps, a helper can do that work as you drive in the screws. Mari once said his intention was this for his free furniture plans: “An idea came to me. If someone actually tried to build something, they probably would learn,” he said. “If, for example, they were to buy a table, which is an industrial product, they would check on the prices of that item. And, having constructed something with their own hands, they would understand if a leg was well-made and did not wobble. This person would learn little things.” I learned a little thing, too. Maybe everything I make doesn’t have to be dovetailed, drawbored and fussed over for weeks. Maybe, just maybe, I can relax a bit at times and build something simple and quick that is worthwhile and useful. PWM

Christopher Schwarz is the editor at Lost Art Press and the author of “Ingenious Mechanicks: Early & Workholding.”

ON INE EXTRAS For links to all online extras, go to: ■ Finish nails. Nails move with the seasons and, when properly installed, hold quite well. Also, I popularwoodworking.com/oct18 think modern screw heads are ugly. The blue tape helps guide my . VIDEO: Watch an interview with Enzo Mari.

WEB: Download other plans from “Autoprogettazione?”

WEB: Download our free “ICanDoThat” manual

popularwoodworking.com ■ 35 A Woodworker’s Guide to Custom Cabinets BY NANCY R. HILLER Use this simple, strong method for constructing kitchen cabinets and other built-ins.

am often tempted to say that there United States. We applied face frames are as many ways to build cabinet s with a simple butt joint and glue. All Ias there are cabinetmakers. It’s an of our doors were in set, hung on solid- exaggeration, I know, but it gets at a drawn brass butts; our drawers ran basic truth about the world of on traditional wooden runners, and and built-ins: There is no single “right” we dovetailed our drawers by hand. way to build them. Much of my c u r rent c a rc a s e-bu i ld i ng At the fi rst shop where I worked, technique comes from what I learned a custom cabinetmaking business in at a contemporary furniture business rural England, we built casework out in Ver mont. There, we built casework of melamine-coated particleboard. from beautifully veneered MDF, join- We joined t he side s, tops and bottom s ing the parts with biscuits and Twin- using thin plywood splines, then ap- thread screws. It was amazingly quick plied solid wood face frames made and simple. Doors were full overlay, Just like the originals. For a recent job, Hiller w it h a shaper-cut br idle joint. The face hung on European hinges; a novelty for built new cabinets, such as the sink base vis- ible here, on details drawn from the surviving frames were glued onto the cases with me. Drawers, too, were full overlay and original built-in at right. more plywood splines. Our doors and ran on Accuride ball bearing slides. drawer front s were in set, and we hung In the 23 years since I started my the doors on solid-drawn brass butt own business, I have selectively ad- Preliminaries hinges mortised only into the door, opted new materials and methods. The When designing built-in cabinets, you then simply screwed onto the inside method I use most often for built-in need to think about installation – and edge of the face frame. cabinetry combines simplicity and take into account certain features of the At the next shop, also a rural English strength for the basic casework with cabinets’ future context. I’m not refer- operation, we made casework out of materials and techniques that owe ring to aesthetic features alone – timber solid fl oorboards. The fi rst step more to the world of furniture than species, hardware, how the various was to glue and clamp the tongue-and- that of contemporary commercial cabinet components will interrelate material in long lengths, then cabinetmaking. The technique I will (will the doors be inset or overlay?),or fl atten them on a stroke and describe here is a hybrid that draws style (slab doors or frame-and-panel?). saw the parts to size. We housed the on what I learned at the different I’m also referring to how the cabinets cabinet floors in dados. Although I shops where I have worked. I have will literally intersect with the , can’t recall which type of joinery we chosen materials and methods that floors, and ceilings, which are rarely used for the tops, I know we weren’t make sense for my business, given square, level, or plumb. There are many using biscuits; I didn’t encounter a my clientele and the styles in which waysofhandlingthesepointsofinter- biscuit until I moved back to the I specialize. section, and each has distinct period

36 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY AUTHOR, ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIELLE LOWERY and other cultural connotations. way you’ll have a chance to adjust the interiors or other fi nish treatments, so For example, many built-ins from different parts to fi t what you’ve made I always choose the sheet material to the early 20th century were made with so far, in stead of fi nding that your face suit the job. (See page 38.) The next step fl ush kicks – the bottom rail of their frame is 1/16” too narrow or you cut the is to cut your basic parts (sides, tops face frames extended all the way down recess for your kick ¼” too high. Some and cabinet fl oors) to size. Because I’m to the fl oor. By the 1930s the recessed people start with face frames then build building each job to genuinely custom kick had become nearly ubiquitous – no their carcases to fi t. I work the other dimensions, some base cabinets may surprise, considering how much easier way around. Once the basic cases have not be designed to end up 24" deep or it is to in st all t han a fl ush kick that has been assembled, I move on to faces. 36" high. (For example, I love a 38"- to sit on an uneven fl oor. high counter. It should go without The cabinet I'm building in this ar- Let’s Get Going saying that the carcase height must ticle was designed for the kitchen of a So you have your scale elevations at be adjusted to allow for the thickness 1912 house. I planned to scribe (saw hand and have made a cutting list of whichever counter material you’ll be and plane) it to the floor and to the based on them. My typical material using.) And even if most of the uppers at its left; that’s why the face frame for kitchen casework is 3⁄4" maple-faced in a kitchen job will be 12" deep, one protrudes beyond the cabinet’s left side. veneer-core plywood, prefi nished on may be a 5"- deep spice cabinet, while Unless you’re running a produc- one side. The prefi nished side goes to another may be 16" deep. tion facility where you build things in the cabinet interior; it saves a lot of time, Rip all of the sides and floors to multiples to standard sizes, you should which helps make my work affordable. width. The edges and corners of sheet take the building work in stages. That That said, some jobs call for painted goods may not be square, and they of-

popularwoodworking.com ■ 37 UPPER CABINETS Plan View (Showing hanging cleat before 12" side panel attachement)

Hanging Be sure to allow enough cleat* clearance for crown and some face frame .

Adjustable Twinthread shelf Face Frame * Hanging Cleats screws at sides and into cleat Don't rely on gravity alone. Hanging cleats need to be from top. integral to the cabinet’s Side View structure. Attach them through the cabinet sides and top. 2" minimum to accommodate under- cabinet lighting.

Front Back Face frame 1/4" plywood Applied end Cabinet side Lighting

2" 11"

Top View

Wall (For both upper & base cabinets) BASE CABINETS Cavity 3 Wide strips of ⁄4"-thick 21" Scribe stile 1 plywood tie the cabinet 1 ⁄8" sides together and provide 1 1 ⁄4" support for a countertop. 6"

1 1 ⁄4"

1 2 ⁄2"

36" Front Front Kick is Front Face frame applied Elevation Back goes to Back after cabinet (Showing face frame, the fl oor. door and drawer) installation.

3" Cabinet floor 3" Flush Kick Recessed Kick Cabinet sides are notched. 1 1 1 1 1 ⁄2"2⁄2"2 ⁄2" 1 ⁄2"

38 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 SHELF-SPACING CONSIDERATIONS ten have minor damage. It’s ideal to make the fi rst rip slightly over-width, • There is no point in putting shelf support holes too close to the cabinet fl oor then turn it around and rip the other or top (or in cases where there will be drawers above the shelf compartment, edge to the size you require. That way too close to the drawers) where there would not be enough room to store any- you’ll have two square, clean edges thing on the shelves. Think about what the shelves will need to hold and plan for joinery. their spacing accordingly. If the bottom of the cabinet will be holding fl ower After ripping, cut the parts to length. vases that are 12" tall, there may not be any point putting shelf support holes There are various ways to do this. Aside lower than about 13" above the cabinet fl oor. from cutting each part accurately to length, it’s important to cut the ends • Holes at the back of the cabinet should be about 1" forward from the back square. You can do this with a track edge to allow enough space for fi ngers when inserting and removing supports. saw if you have one. Alternatively you can use a and a pattern- • Holes near the front of the cabinet should be positioned close enough to cutting bit to rout one end square, the front edge of the shelves that they prevent the shelves from tipping when then crosscut on a table saw, running someone is putting an object away or taking it out. At the same time, take any that end along the fence. (The same lipping at the front edge of the shelf into account. In general it’s a good idea to technique will work with a radial arm center the front shelf support holes about 5⁄8" on center behind the back face saw for the second cut, which trims the of a shelf lipping that hangs below the underside of the shelf. piece to length.) My current method is to crosscut one end of each piece using • Consider how much adjustability is really necessary for the shelves in a given a slider on my table saw, then crosscut cabinet. For cabinets that will store shorter items such as juice glasses and dish- it to length using the rip fence. Be sure ware, closer spacing may be warranted; I often lay these out at 1 1⁄4" on center. you add an identifying mark (for ex- For cabinets storing large items such as tall jars of dry goods, 2" on center may ample: upper 1, left side) to each part be more practical. The point is to allow as much versatility in positioning the as you cut it. shelves as may be needed while avoiding the visual busy-ness of too many holes. My method for joining cabinet fl oors to sides may not be refi ned, but it’s quick, simple and strong. I use a spacer made from scrap 3⁄4" plywood to position the floor and support it. Twinthread screws run in through the cabinet sides will fasten the whole thing together.

But First... Your elevations will determine how high the kick needs to be and whether it will be fl ush or recessed. Calculate the height of the space that will be beneath the cabinet fl oor and rip spac- ers from scrap plywood to this width, then cut them to length. If your kick will be fl ush, the spacer should be a hair under the width of the cabinet sides in length; if the kick will be recessed, the spacer should be a hair Rip first. I store my plywood on sturdy under the width of the cutout por- sawhorses near the table saw so that I can pull one end of a sheet over to the edge of tion at the bottom of each cabinet the saw, adjust it against the fence and rip. side. Next, predrill for the screws that will tie the sides together with Be there and be square. A sliding table set the fl oor. at 90° makes it easy to cut the first end of each casework part square. You can then cut multiple parts to the same length by Move on Up crosscutting with the rip fence. Most base cabinets do not need a solid plywood top. A strip several inches wide at the front and back offers plenty

popularwoodworking.com ■ 39 Top joint. In most cases you can simply hold Steady on. For safety and accuracy, clamp Flat and fi rm. Clamp the top (whether it’s the strip in place and mark the center line the cabinet side in your vise and hold the solid or strips) to your bench and hold the for each biscuit from the strip to the cabinet biscuit jointer fi rmly against the fence to fi rmly in place, then make the side. make a square cut. cut. of material to tie the sides together and quickly which end is right and left, and Assembly Time support a counter. Using less material which long edge faces forward. It is a With the basic carcase joints cut and lightens the weight of these substantial good idea to have at least two biscuits shelf support holes drilled, you’re ready cabinets while minimizing waste. Sink in each strip to help prevent the strips to glue up the cabinets. Run a of bases, in particular, do not need a solid from twisting during assembly. glue along the top edge of each fl oor top; the vast majority of a sink base’s If you have ever found yourself on spacer then stand the sides on the fl oor, top will be cut out to accommodate the hands and knees, searching for that front edge facing up. (You can lean each sink. For narrow cabinets (those 18" custard pan in the very back of a base side against a , stationary or less wide) it’s usually quicker to go cabinet, you’ll understand why most machine or sturdy trash can to hold ahead and make a solid plywood top, base cabinets today are made with it temporarily.) following the same directions as those drawers or pullout trays on full-exten- Set the cabinet fl oor in place bet- for a strip top. sion mechanical slides instead of with ween the sides and clamp loosely. De- The strips for a particular cabinet shelves concealed by doors. I rarely put pending on the size of the assembly will be the same length as the fl oor for shelves in base cabinets, but I do use and whether you have a helper, it may that cabinet, so cut them to length at them in upper cabinets and in shallow be more practical to hold the fl oor and the same time. The sides of the cabi- base units such as bookshelves. sides together by clamping the fl oor net will be joined to these strips with When a cabinet will have adjust- to t he bottom spacers in stead of clamp- Twinthread screws, but I also use bis- able shelves, I usually use 1⁄4" pin-style ing across the cabinet’s width. At this cuits, for increased strength as well as supports, which are unobtrusive, ex- point the clamp is just to hold the parts a positive means of locating the parts tremely strong (I have used them to together while you insert the top (or during assembly. Mark each strip with store large shelves of LPs) and fast. Now top st r ips); t here w ill be t ime to adjust the cabinet name or number and “front” is the time to drill shelf support holes, the fi t and get things square. or “back,” so you’ll be able to identify because you can clamp the cabinet Maximize the effi cacy of glue. Make sides together and mark them at the sure the bottom face of the cabinet fl oor same time. Lay out the positions with is tight against the top edge of the spac- a long square. ers; the bead of glue along the spacers’ top edge will contribute to the cabinet’s strength, especially if you are using plywood that’s prefinished only on the interior face and so offers limited opportunities for gluing. Now apply glue to the biscuit slots for the top (or top strips), insert the biscuits and set the top in place. Apply a couple of clamps to hold the assembly together while you adjust the fi t. Predrill. Even though the screws will be run in from the outside of the cabinet, I predrill from After squaring the cabinet, sight the inside, because that way I don’t need to across the top edges to check for wind- measure for the holes’ positions. The spacer Simple and strong. Clamp the spacer in place at the bottom of the cabinet side and attach ing. Shim at t he bottom as nece ssar y to tells me where the holes should be: 3⁄8" on 1⁄ remove t w ist, t hen dr ill and screw. Let center above its top edge. Then I fl ip the side with 1 4" Twinthread screws. Four or fi ve are over and . Five or six screws are plenty for each side of a typical base cabinet. the cabinet sit until the glue has set, per usually ample for a 24"-deep base cabinet. You can predrill and countersink or use an the glue manufacturer’s instructions. , as I did here.

40 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 Vertical Dividers Face Frames Then continue with direct measur- Plywood that is prefi nished on both After using several kinds of joinery ing. Hold one squared end of the divid- sides comes into its own for vertical for kitchen-cabinet face frames, I now er stile in place and mark the other, dividers. I measure for dividers at regard a pocket screw jig as my go-to. then cut. Hold the skeleton face frame this point and fasten them in place Pocket screws are quick, simple and against the cabinet and transfer the with screws. strong. If you make a mistake, you can position of the divider onto the edge of Instead of using a , I often remove the screws and replace the top and bottom rails. Drill pocket cut a couple of pieces of scrap plywood a part. screw holes at the ends of the stile and (one for the bottom, the other for the Mill the stock for your face frames insert the stile. top) to the distance between the divider to thickness and width but do not and the nearest cabinet side. Clamp the cut anything to length until the cab- Drawer Rails scrap in place and you have an instant inets are assembled. Direct measure- Even if your drawers will slide on way to predrill the screw holes, 3⁄8" on ment is the quickest, most accurate mechanical runners, you may wish to center from the edge of the scrap. This way to go: Start with stiles, setting a install drawer rails for a more tradi- method also makes locating the divider squared end on your shop floor for tional look (at least for built-ins from a snap when you’re ready to screw it face frames with stiles that go to the the late-19th through the mid-20th in place. fl oor; for cabinets with fully recessed century). With the vertical divider Of course, you cannot insert that kicks, start at the top and mark the in place, repeat the same steps to size divider until you’ve cut it. Don’t precut location of the cabinet fl oor’s under- and install these rails. dividers to size; cut them to fi t. Other- side, then add 1⁄2" (or however much When you have completely assem- wise you may fi nd that your divider is you want the face frame to hang bled your face frame, give a light sand- too small. The most accurate way to down, which will hide the joint ing to the inside edges (this is much determine a divider’s length is by setting between the cabinet and an applied easier to do before the frame is glued one end in place and marking the other. kick). Clamp the stiles in place, then against a prefi nished surface that you Wide cabinets should have support hold one end of the top rail against would not want to mar). Brush glue feet below or near vertical dividers to one stile and mark the position onto the front edges of the carcase, prevent sag. Make these from strips of the other. Repeat with the bot- spreading it over the surface and ap- of 3⁄4" plywood cut to the same height tom rail. ply the face frame. Make sure that the as the spacers supporting the cabinet For vertical dividers, wait until top edge of the bottom rail is flush sides. Screw a batten on each side of you have the main part of the face with the floor of the cabinet; do the the foot through which you can fasten frame screwed together so that the same with any critical inside or out- to the underside of the cabinet fl oor. spacing of all the parts is locked in. side edges. Then clamp.

Maximize the effi cacy of glue. Make sure the bottom face of the cabinet fl oor is tight against the top edge of the spacers; the bead of glue along the spacers’ top edge will contribute to the cabinet’s strength, especially if you are using plywood that’s pre- fi nished only on the interior face and so offers few opportunities for gluing.

Glue guide. Apply a bead of glue to the top edge of the spacer and where the biscuits will go. Don't waste your time or glue on the prefi nished sur- faces; it won’t bond to them. Adjust clamps and square up. I fi nd light clamps useful in holding the fl oor A screw can help. If you are working Drill, then screw. Predrill against the spacers while getting things alone on a relatively large assembly, for the screws using a bit adjusted. Here I am tightening the it’s sometimes helpful to insert one just smaller than the shank clamps at the top, having fl ushed up screwateachsidebeforethecarcase of your screws. Countersink the front and back edges. Next I will is fully squared up to keep the parts to prevent breakout. Insert move to the cabinet fl oor, tapping the joined together. You can remove that screws with a driver. back down fi rmly onto the bottom screwifnecessary,thenredrilland spacer before I insert a clamp under replace it once the cabinet is squared. the back edge to tighten everything up. The carcase is square when the diagonals are equal.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 41 Hanging Cleats Next I usually tackle the hanging cleats, through which the cabinets will be scr- ewed to the wall. Then I cut the backs. After these steps, the structure of the cabinet will be fi nished and I can turn to the fun parts – doors and drawers, both of which deserve their own articles and have been covered amply elsewhere. For safety, the attachment cleat must be fi rmly fastened to the carcase, oth- erwise a cabinet could be separated from the cleat and fall off the wall, with potentially fatal results. I make a sturdy Direct measure. Determine the length of dividers by holding one end against the cabinet fl oor, then marking the other. Because it’s typical for fl oors and tops of wide cabinets to sag or bow, cleat from solid wood or 3⁄4"-thick ve- measure for dividers at the nearest end. That way your divider will even up the height of the neer-core plywood and attach it to the cabinet near the center. carcase with Twinthread screws run through the top and sides. The cleat becomes part of the cabinet structure, not only supporting the weight of cabi- net and contents from beneath the top, but also resisting the kind of leverage (such as that imposed when a child leans on an open cabinet door – please, please teach your children not to do this!) that could pull the cabinet sides away from the cleat if gravity alone were holding the cabinet in place. It should go without saying that a cabinet designed to store pantry goods, appliances or dishware must be attached to the wall through studs Spacers for the win. Use a piece of scrap plywood to lay out holes for vertical dividers and locate or heavy-duty blocking, not just fas- them for fastening. Then rely on the scrap to locate the divider while you drill pilot holes with a tened to a wall with molly bolts or countersink/ and screw it in place. drywall anchors.

Backs Many people think backs are optional for built-ins, but backs are almost al- ways worth incorporating. A good back will help a carcase resist racking, in addition to giving a more fi nished in- terior look. Generally, for kitchen cabinets I simply apply a back cut from ¼"-thick veneer-core maple plywood, prefi n- ished on one side. The prefinished side goes toward the interior. Measure the width of the carcase and cut the back to that width, then measure the height from the underside of the cab- inet floor to the top of the cabinet Intermediate support. A batten screwed to Direct measure again. For vertical dividers, and cut the back to that dimension. each side of the foot allows you to attach it to wait until you have the main part of the face Fasten the back to the cabinet with the cabinet’s underside. I stagger the battens, frame screwed together. Clamp (without 1 putting one toward the front, the other toward glue) to the carcase. Hold one squared end of #6 1" or 1 ⁄4" Twinthread screws after the back, so that I can screw into them from the divider stile in place and mark the other, drilling countersunk pilot holes. the opposite side of the support foot. then cut.

42 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 Shelves In most cases, kitchen cabinets will be far more functional if made with shelves that are adjustable, rather than fi xed, allowing you to customize place- ment so as to ut ili ze t he available space effi ciently. I generally make shelves from the same 3⁄4"-thick veneer-core plywood as the carcase and add a solid front lipping to fi nish the edge and in- crease rigidity. For shelves, as with vertical dividers, Pocket the difference. A pocket screw jig it’s nice to use stock t hat is prefi nished makes strong face-frame joints quickly. You on both sides if you have it available. can buy a special clamp to hold the rails and Resist the urge to make your shelves a stiles in place, but I simply clamp the parts together on my bench, making sure they’re perfect fi t. They need to have a gap of square. about 1⁄32" to 1⁄16" on each end in order to be easily adjustable.

Kicks If your cabinets have a fl ush kick, as does the one in this article, you’re home free – at least until it’s time to scribe the kick to fi t the fl oor. If your kicks are recessed, mill them to thickness but leave them over-width and over-length until your cabinets are installed. Then cut them to fi t.

Finished End Panels and Trim The basic cabinetmaking method above will work well for cabinets that are trapped by walls at both ends. But it’s also designed to allow for fi nished end panels. I fi nd it more effi cient in many cases to build and install the cabinets, whet her uppers or base s, t hen carefully fi t and apply fi nished ends. Regardless of whether the fi nished ends will be Let’s face it. Clamp position is important. Put the clamps where they will do the most good. For frame-and-panel construction, solid joints that will be seen from the inside of the cabinet, such as the one between the cabinet fl oor wood sides, or sheet goods custom- and the bottom rail of the face frame, put the clamp inside. Sometimes, such as when the face frame is fl ush with an outside face that will be a fi nished end (see the right end of the cabinet), veneered to match the cabinets, I cut it’s preferable to put the clamp on the exterior. Cauls protect the face frame. them roughly to size in the shop, then scr ibe t hem to fi t on site. The end panels will cover the 1⁄4" back, which would ON INE EXTRAS otherwise be exposed. Likewise, crown moulding and For links to all online extras, go to: ■ popularwoodworking.com/oct18 other applied trim goes on after the cabinet s have been in st alled. That way VIDEO: Build a Baking Cabinet you can cut it to fi t the room.PWM WEB: Guide to load, span and shelf construction basics

Nancy R. Hiller operates NR Hiller Design, Inc. BLOG: Check out Nancy's weekly posts near Bloomington, Ind. and is currently working on a STORE: Purchase “English Arts & Crafts book about kitchens for Lost Art Press. Just for looks. Cabinets made with mechani- Furniture: Projects & Techniques for cal drawer slides don’t need rails to hold run- the Modern Maker” ners and kickers, but if you’re after a period look, you may want to consider including them.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 43 Getting Started with CNC Patterns

Use a CNC service to make perfect patterns. BY TIM CELESKI

oodworkers who make most woodworkers don’t own a CNC, things consisting of more and that’s okay. I’ve got a great trick that Wthan straight lines need gives you most of the benefi ts of a CNC patterns. Patterns open up the worlds without having to own or understand of form, shape and detail. They make how to run one. How? If you make furniture production faster and digital drawings of your furniture parts, consistent. A CNC-machined pattern you can have a CNC service machine has perfect shapes, curves and detail. your patterns for you. And, armed with Plus, they’re the ultimate story sticks a perfect pattern and a router table or – you’ll be able to produce this piece of shaper, you can make perfect parts for Stay organized. I keep my patterns with my furniture over and over. your next project. parts through each step of a project. All the The greatest benefi ts of CNCs are It’s fair to say I’m a serious user of information is right there on each pattern. precision and repeatability. However, patterns. I have hundreds. Long before

44 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR I owned a CNC, I had all of my patterns Easy to draw. Drawings made by a service. As a furniture maker, just need to be simple I rely on patterns and use them every 2D outlines of your day. In my shop, the rules are, if you parts. Here are four need to make t wo of any t hing, if t here’s renderings that will become patterns. even the slightest chance you might make something again or if you just need a way to produce accurate details, it’s time to make a pattern. I’ve found that good patterns are critical for accurate, effi cient and error- free furniture making. They really work. I built a woodworking career using patterns. Here’s how.

It Starts with Drawings My furniture designs are created on a computer. I prepare and hand off drawings to a CNC service to mill my patterns out of MDF. I used Adobe Illustrator initially then moved to CAD software to draw my furniture parts. What kind of software do you need? Take advantage of extra space. I try to gang my projects when I go to a CNC service. Projects Like me, you could do this with any are organized by color and spaced out for effi cient machining on a full 4’ x 8’ sheet of MDF. designer-focused drawing program such as Inkscape, which is free. However, the better choice by far is to use CAD Unfortunately, Sketchup, does not and shapes are connected so that a software. It’s designed for the kind of pre- produce quality 2D, machinable fi les square, for example, is a unit rather cision drawing tasks that woodworkers needed for CNC work. Whatever your than four individual lines. If you can need. And, CAD has capabilities that choice, the software needs to be capable click and the entire part is selected, make it easier, faster and more effi cient of exporting or saving in standard fi le you’re set. CAD and drawing software to use. formats like DXF, SVG or AI, so that have joining tools just for this task. There are many choices when it comes a CNC service can import your files This is an important detail, so check to CAD programs, but for the purpose into their own CAD/CAM software to your work because strange things of making patter n s most any 2D capable prepare your designs for machining. can happen on the CNC if you leave program will do. Free programs like something open. Fusion360 or FreeCAD, low-priced Drawing for CNC Patterns Consider adding any additional TurboCAD, Vectric Cut2D, mid-price The drawings should be quite simple; details you may need machined. If there Rhino3D or CorelCAD and many others, patterns are intended to duplicate are any holes or openings needed in the all have t he abilit y to create 2D draw ings flat parts. We’re drafting in 2D, not part, there will be holes or openings for woodworkers. 3D. Each part has to be drawn full- cut on the CNC. Also, make sure that size, individually in 2D. Full-size is no detail is smaller than the bit that critical. If, for example, you’re making will be used. You can’t cut a 1⁄8" hole a 62"stretcher pattern for a table, draw with a 1⁄4" bit. it 62" long. You can’t provide a drawing of a 31" stretcher and ask the CNC ser- Organize Your Patterns vice to double the scale. Once your designs are complete, Fortunately, CAD software includes organize your individual patterns in a tools to make measured, precise draw- way that’s effi cient for the CNC service, ing easy. For effi ciency, parts such as and therefore, economical for you. That chair arms, legs, stretchers, back splats, means you’ll want to gang all your seat parts, etc., can be ganged together patterns together and lay them out in Rout with a top-bearing bit. A router table, in the same drawing. a drawing the size of a minimum piece a simple jig and a straight bit with a top bearing Make sure the outlines of each part of blank stock that could encompass are all that’s needed to safely rout your pieces are completely closed and “joined.” all of them. to size with patterns. This means the ends of lines, curves Most CNC service vendors will

popularwoodworking.com ■ 45 Tryin the Process

Finding a Local CNC Service Look for a local CNC service that could make your patterns for you. Because patterns are usually made out of MDF or plywood, I prefer a vendor with a common 48"x 96"or larger CNC that uses vacuum hold down.

Perfection in 10 minutes. Edensaw Woods’ CNC service imported Todd’s drawing into their CAM software to program the machine operations. The blue lines show the tool paths the CNC will follow. The CNC works very quickly and cuts the patterns in just 10 minutes. MDF is material of choice. The completed patterns are machined out of 1⁄2" MDF.

Though I’ve made a lot of CNC patterns, CAD and drew up new bowed shelves. were eager to give pattern making a I wanted to see how somebody else On my suggestion, he added 1⁄4" holes at try. As recommended, Todd specifi ed handled the process. I asked my friend center points and key joinery locations 1⁄2" MDF for his patterns and a 1⁄4" bit. Todd Butler to give the process a try. for reference. Since he only needed a few patterns, the Todd is an experienced woodworker Once the drawings were complete, job was completed in about 10 minutes but had never used CAD software or a he prepared them for a CNC service. He and billed at the minimum shop rate. CNC service. I explained my process organized his patterns to fi t effi ciently Back at his shop, he used the patterns and followed him along the way. on a small board leaving 1⁄2" spacing to lay out the materials to be cut and For this project, Todd wanted to between each part and 1˝ along the shaped for his project. Using layout modify and build a classic, late outside edges, to allow room for the markers for joinery connections and 18th-century bookcase from The cutter to travel between parts. He put center points, he transferred them to Woodworker, Volume 4. His goal was the 1⁄4" marker holes on a separate his boards. to change a few dimensions, bow out layer to help the CNC service plan and After rough cutting the sides and the shelves and lay it out for future program their machine processes. shelves on a band saw, the patterns builds using tusk tenons. He used my Next, Todd needed a CNC service to were used for shaping on his router favorite CAD program, Rhino3D. He make his patterns. He lives outside of table. The final result is a bookcase used readily available online courses Seattle and went to a popular with smooth shapes that fi ts together and videos, many of which are free, to lumber supplier in Port Townsend perfectly plus a set of patterns he learn the basics. Studying the drawings called Edensaw Woods. They recently can use to make more furniture in in his book, he recreated the sides in started offering CNC services and the future.

46 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 Places to Look How Much Does it Cost? • CNC Service Bureaus Prices can rangeefrom under a $100 for • Cabinet Shops half a 4x4 sheet full of patterns to twice • Sign-Making Shops that for a full sheeet. Create precision • Maker Spaces drawings, take advantage of them, skip • Furniture Makers measurements whenever possible and use smart patterns.

Virtual drawing to reality. Todd used Rhino 3D CAD software for the 2D drawing (rigght, bottom) that’ll be used for CNC-machined patterns. Thhe3Drendering (right, top)sh s ows what the cabinet will look like whend one.

Prepping for routing. Back at his shop, Todd traces the patterns onto his boards. He then draws a centerline through the .250" holes for his joinery locations.

Start shaping. After roughing out the A perfect fi t. Todd’s bookcase gets a dry fi t before fi nal assembly. parts, Todd shapes them to exact size at the router table.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 47 ask that you leave at least 1" around a sheet of plywood or MDF to allow for clamping and at least at 1⁄2" between individual parts if your patterns are being cut with a 1⁄4" bit. It doesn’t matter where patterns are located or if they line up. A CNC doesn’t care how you lay it out as long as there’s an adequate gap between parts. Move parts around to make best use of the space. I always specify my patterns to Patterns are the ultimate story sticks. All the information you need is right there on each pattern. 1 becutwitha ⁄4"bit.Idothisfora Patterns have furniture name, pattern function, sequence and dimensions for a cut list. Add couple of reasons. For one thing, it’s joinery specifi cations and positions plus fi nishing details. asmallenoughthatIgetareasonable level of detail in tight areas and yet cut Include Instructions CNCservicetofindoutiftheywill efficiently. For another, it allows me Instructions to the CNC service can supply your pattern stock or if you need to place the patterns close together to be simple. Ask them to cut around the todeliverthematerialforyourjob. make efficient use of raw materials. outside of your parts and to use a .250 bit.Ifthereareopeningsinthemiddleof Add Precision Where It Counts Prepare Your Files apartorholestobemilledformarkers, Patterns are a convenient aid to help EachCNCservicewillhaveitsown make sure they are in the drawing and you repeat shapes and details. But, requirementsforfilepreparation.First, lettheserviceknowthattheyneedto a CNC produced pattern can add a contactthem,tellthemwhatyouhave be cut out. Some CNC programming lotmorebymakinguseofthe.001" in mind and the software you’re using, softwarewillautodetecttheseopenings, precision available. So, why not add and find out exactly how they want butjustincase,Iplaceallmyholesand precision markers to your CNC their files prepared. They will use some openings on a different drawing layer machined patterns that will greatly kindofCADorsign-makingsoftware sotheCNCoperatorcaneasilyfind improve your setups and layouts? plus CAM software to program the themandprogramtheCNCaccordingly. When you add high precision to CNC. You don’t need to use the same key locations, layout information and programs they use, but you do need to Pattern Materials joinerypositionsintheformof.250" provide them with files they can read Every woodworker has a preference holes as markers, it takes patterns to a or import. For example, if you’re using forwhichmaterialisbestforpatterns. level beyond simple story sticks. I think a drawing program it’s likely they can Though Baltic birch plywood might of them as “smart patterns.” import “AI” (Adobe Illustrator), “EPS” last longer, I’ve always used 1⁄2"MDF. If you deal with curved shapes, formator“SVG”files.ForCAD,almost It’s flat, cheap, simple and available. accurate reference points help to keep allofthemcanexporttheuniversal I’veneverwornoutapatternevenafter everythinglinedup.First,ImakesureI “DXF” format files. hundreds of uses. Check with your addacenterpointoneverysymmetrical part. For example, with a semicircle shape, I place a marker where the centerlineislocated.Thatgivesmea reference point for alignment. On long parts, I sometimes make the pattern alittleoverhalfthelengthandadda center point marker to line each half up. If a hole or other detail – like a plug, mount point, inlay, etc. –is needed, markers are added to their locations. Next,ateveryjoinerypositionor attachmentpoint,Iputacenterline marker at the joint intersection. If there’samortiseononepartanda tenon on the other, a centerline marker is placed on both parts where they’ll Take advantage of CNC capabilities. Add precision layout to your drawings in the form of CNC meet with the joint closed. Sometimes, machined .250” holes at key locations. Red holes show joinery positions. Blue holes are for I even build router joinery templates square plug locations in this crest rail. Centerlines are drawn on the patterns later for positioning. right into patterns.

48 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 These .250" markers need to use to make up my cut lists. I add the Better Than Patterns be accurately placed and tested in date the pattern was made in case there A CNC-made pattern is precision digital your drawings prior to machining. are variations of the design or series. woodworking where it counts. Creating Essentially, you’re testing a joint to If there’s a pattern count for a given them is smart, inexpensive, accurate make sure everything lines up the furniture piece, I include it and assign a and easy to do. Precision patterns make way you intend, before machining. number to each pattern so I can spot if your projects more consistent and Use guidelines in drawing software one is missing from the series. If there less prone to errors. Any woodworker or take advantage of various snap-to are subgroups of patterns or sets, such benefi ts from this trick and can still or alignment features that are common as parts for a tabletop, each pattern is build their projects with their choice in CAD programs to help line parts identifi ed individually and noted where of tools, skills and methods. As a bonus, up. This is easier to do than it sounds. it fi ts in sequence. it’s a giant step beyond the adage, Next, I use a square and fi ne-point “measure twice, cut once.” I think it’s Marking Up Your Patterns marker to draw alignment or centering better to create precision drawings, In fur niture classe s, student s frequent ly line s from t he center of my .250" m arker take advantage of the precision, skip ask about plans and instructions for holes out to the edge and wrap them measurements whenever possible and my furniture. They expect to see the around the pattern with a small square. use smart patterns. usual printed drawings with pages of Also, I always make my patter n s at fi nal Of all the digital woodworking instructions. I tell them that I don’t size without added length for joinery. recommendations I’ve made to readers, have any plans or instructions because At joinery locations, I note how much getting patterns CNC machined by a I never use them. I keep no notes, to add for tenons, dovetails and the size service is at the top of my list. You don’t notebooks or story sticks on anything of the joints and other details. have to be a computer expert, you just I build. Every detail I need to build a Extra info, such as roundovers or have to commit to lear ning how to make particular part is written onto my full- edge detailing, is noted at the basic digital drawings. Finally, in future size, CNC patterns. The patterns, notes appropriate locations on the pattern. Popular Woodworking projects, I’ll and key positions are how I keep my Special blank stock alignment points include not just printed information to work organized and accurate. are added to align odd-shaped parts. work from, but will offer project pattern Using a marker, I write the name I’m careful to indicate any 90˚ locations, fi les for CNC machining. I hope it starts of the furniture piece, the part name, confusing angles and special trim a trend. PWM the function the pattern is intended angles to be saw cut later. Finally, I for and the rough and nal dimensions include notes about any “gotchas” that Tim Celeski is a furniture designer and artist based in of the blank material. This is what I might come up during construction. Seattle, Wash. See more of his work at celeski.com. ON INE EXTRAS For links to all online extras, go to ■ popularwoodworking.com/oct18

BLOG: CNC digital woodworking

PLANS: Blacker mirror full project fi les Our products are available online at ■ ShopWoodworking.com

With a tap and a .250” machinist center punch, Taking it one more step. Sometimes I add router joinery templates right into my patterns. I mill 5⁄8" locations for holes and plugs are transferred router bushing slots at joinery locations. through the pattern holes.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 49 Handmade Saw Use vital hand-tool techniques to Cabinet build storage for your saw collection. BY KIERAN BINNIE

azingintomyAnarchist’sTool Building the cabinet provided the you may want to beef up the French Chestandrealizingmysaw opportunity to use many of my saws, cleats to account for the extra weight of Gtill was bursting at the seams, with an emphasis on dovetail, a hardwood cabinet. The kerfed blocks Ihadtofaceasoberingfact:Iwasin and mortise and tenon joinery. which capture the saw plates are hard thegripofabacksawaddiction.Ihad maple, to provide wear resistance, twochoices.EitherIcouldtrimmy Materials and Design while the rail on which the saw totes collection down to the regulation is- I built my saw cabinet out of what is rest is a length of 1” hardwood dowel sue three – dovetail, carcase sold in the UK as Canadian yellow of the sort most timber yards and big andtenon–orIcouldbuildawall- pine (Pinus strobus, aka Eastern White box stores sell. You could, of course, mounted saw cabinet to hold my full Pine) as it is lightweight, strong, and turn your own rail if you have a lathe collection. dimensionally stable. Other similar and want some extra practice. See the This project was the result of choos- softwoods would be appropriate, and cut list at the end of this article for ingoptionnumbertwo.Thebonus? hardwoods would also be fi ne although the components.

50 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY AUTHOR, ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIELLE LOWERY This design will accommodate 14 waste and clean up the bottom of the mortises. Once the glue has cured, fi t saws, including full-sized 28" hand- dado with a small , working and glue the partition, making sure saws; if you want to store a 30" mitre from both ends to the middle. the partition is fl ush to the at saw then increase the length of the Finally, drill a 1" diameter mortise the rear of the casework. Let the glue sides. Saw totes can vary in size, and in the sides to accept the rail on which fi xing the partition cure, and then clean while the rail holds all of my saws so the saw totes will rest. This mortise up the exterior of the casework with a that they do not rest on the partition is 6" from the bottom, and 3" in from . below you might want to start by lay- the front edge of the cabinet. Clamp ing your saws on a full-sized drawing both sides together and drill through Backboards to make sure t hat your part icular saws them at the same time to ensure that The three backboards are joined with will not bottom out on the partition. the mortise lines up. tongue and grooves, and are held in Because I cut my dovetails tails place with a combination of cut nails Joinery fi rst, I also planed a shallow (1⁄16" deep) and glue. They should be a friction The casework is joined by through- rabbet on each end of the tail boards. fi t into the carcase, so take your time dovetails at each corner. There are a The dovetails are standard through- getting them snug. I started with fi tting number of steps before you are ready dovetails; I used six tails per side, and the two outer boards, and then adjusted to dovetail. First, plane a 1⁄2" wide, the tails are on the sides of the casework the middle board to fi t the remaining 1⁄4" deep rabbet on the rear edge of the while the pins are on the ends. The space. both edges sides and ends to accept the tongue only unusual feature is that the pin at of the middle board, and just the inner and groove backboards. Next, layout the rear corner is a captured half-pin edge of the boards going on each side. the dado for the partition separating to account for the rabbet, so lay out A no. 49 plane makes quick work of the drawer from the main body of the a separate baseline for the half-pin. I the tongue and groove. till. The dado is 1⁄2" wide, 1⁄4" deep, and gang-cut the tailboards and then lay Once the panels are tongue and situated 2 3⁄4" from the bottom edge of out the pins for each corner. grooved and fi tting nicely, glue just the carcase sides. With the dovetails cut, assemble the long edges of the two outer boards There are several ways to cut dados, and glue the four sides together, into the rabbets on the case sides. Then and here is how I do it. Lay out the including the rail. Leave the rail nail the boards to the top and bottom sides of the dado with a sharp marking overlength at this stage and allow of the case and to the rear edge of the knife. Deepen the knife line with a wide the excess to protrude through the partition. I used 4d wrought head nails chisel (I use a 2" butt chisel) and then pare into the chisel line from the waste side, to provide a v-shaped groove deep enough for the set of your saw to be below the surface of the workpiece. This groove will guide your saw and is known as a “fi rst-class saw cut.” Cut the walls of the dado with a fi ne , gently resting fi ngers of your off- hand on the toe of the saw to keep it in the cut. Chisel out the majority of the

Saw guide. For a fi rst-class saw cut, pare a channel into your knife line to guide the saw.

Production work. Gang cutting the tails makes for effi cient dovetailing. Cutting the same side of each tail helps keep a consistent Rabbets by hand. A rabbet or moving fi llister Light pressure. Gently resting your fi ngers on angle, before cutting the opposite side of all plane makes quick work of the rabbets for the back of the saw keeps it from jumping out of the tails. The captured half pin hides the the casework. of the cut. rabbet on the rear edge of the casework.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 51 Homemade Saw Cabinet 24" Dovetailed Corners NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES)

TWL 3⁄4 9" CASEWORK " ❏ 2 sides 3⁄4 111⁄2 37 3⁄4 ❏ 2 ends 3⁄4 111⁄2 24 ❏ 1 partition 1⁄2 11 23 11⁄4" ❏ 3 backboards 1⁄2 8* 363⁄4* 10" ❏ 1 rail 1" dia. - 25 373⁄4" ❏ 4 cleats 1 3 24

DRAWER 1"0rail 1 ❏ 2 drawer sides ⁄2 2* 11* 121⁄2" 1⁄2 ❏ 2 drawerF&B 1⁄2 2* 221⁄2* " ❏ 4 drawer bottom 1⁄4 10 1⁄2* 1 3" centre of rail to top of dado DOOR Supplies 2" 1⁄4" deep dado ❏ 2rails 3⁄4 31⁄2 22 Horton Brasses ❏ 3stiles 3⁄4 335 horton-brasses.com FRONT PROFILE ❏ 3⁄ 1⁄ 2 panels 4 8 4*29* 1 Oval knob in dark antique K-40, $8 INTERNAL FITTINGS 1 Desk Interior knob in dark ❏ 1backsawkerfedblock11⁄4 13⁄4 221⁄2 antique ❏ 1⁄ 3⁄ 1handsawkerfedblock14 1 4 15 H-42 1⁄2", $3.50 ❏ ** hangers 1⁄2 2** * Solid Brass Butt Hinge with Ball Tips in dark antique *Fittocarcase PB- 407B, $22 ** Number of frame saw hangers and neccessary length dependsonframesawcollection * Depends on frame saw collection from Tools for Working Wood, as these you just set to lay out the tenons on have excellent holding strength and the rails, and then cut the tenons. I use look great. The nails securing the ends the same “fi rst class saw cut” method of the boards need to be angled slightly described above to guarantee clean so that they pass through the boards tenon shoulders and a good gap-free fi t. and into the ends of the casework; a Chop the mortises on the stiles (they small bevel is useful for sighting the should be 1⁄4" wide and 2 1⁄2" deep) and angle while drilling the pilot hole. assemble the four frame components to check for square. I fi nd it helpful to Door lay the frame on top of the carcase at The door is quite standard frame and this point to make sure everything is Drill reference. A small bevel helps to sight panel construction. The rails have a 2" the right size. the angle the pilot hole for the cut nails on long tenon on each end to fi t into the Next up is the middle stile. Use a the backboards. stiles, and a 2" deep mortise to accept bar gauge to work out the length of the the tenon of the middle stile. Start with middle stile and allow for a 21⁄2" long the rails and the two outer stiles. Plough tenon on each end. Plough a 1⁄4" x 1⁄2" a 1⁄4" wide, 1⁄2" deep groove on the inner groove on bot h of t he long edge s of t his edge of the four frame components, and piece and layout the tenon using the then set a mortise gauge to the same same settings as you spacing – leave this marking gauge set did for the tenons on the rails. The only as you will need it for the middle stile difference is that there is no haunch on and for the panels. The tenons are 21⁄2" the tenons of the middle stile. Layout wide and have a haunch on the outer the mortices on the rails so that the In the groove. Layout the tenons with a edge, sized to fi t the groove ploughed middle stile bisects the frame into two marking gauge set to the dimensions of the on the stile. Use the marking gauge equal sections. With all the joinery cut, groove.

52 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 111⁄2" 24" 24" Half Pin 1 3 ⁄2" Dovetails 3" 3" **8" * 3" 71⁄4" tongue and groove boards (*reduce width to fit carcase) 1⁄4" deep 1⁄2" wide rabbet 28" 35" 373⁄4" 373⁄4"

1 1 3" ⁄4" deep ⁄2" wide 1"0 rail rabbet on all 4 sides 1 3 ⁄2" 61⁄2" 18" 2" long (plus 4" for tenon) 1 2 ⁄2" wide SIDE PROFILE BACK PROFILE CABINET DOOR tenon

Oncethepanelhasbeenraisedtothe to the cabinet on your bench rather edge of the tongue, flip the panel over than following the numbers slavishly. andcutthesecondsideofthetongue If you decide to dovetail the drawer using a moving fillister plane. A 1⁄4" then placing the tails on the sides will widegroovecutintoapieceofscrapis reduce wracking when pushing and usefulfortellingyouwhenthetongue pulling the draw in use. fits,anditisbesttoerronaslightly loosefitratherthanbeingtootight. Internal Fittings Whenyoucometoassemblethedoor The internal fi ttings are all simple to for the final time, glue both rails into make. Start with the kerfed blocks one stile then slide in the first panel. which hold the saw plates. There are Haunched tenon. Thelayoutofthetenon– Gluethetenonsofthemiddlestileinto two blocks – one extending the full note the haunch on the right hand side. the rails, and then slide in the second width of the cabinet for handsaws and panel before fitting the final stile. The assemble the frame to check for square panels fl oat in their grooves to allow for and measure the spaces for the raised seasonal movement, so make sure that panels (don’t follow the cut list for this only the tenons and mortises are glued. part of the build – your frame might be a slightly different size to mine). Drawer The raised panels fi t into the grooves The shallow drawer is big enough to of the frame on all four sides with a hold a set of saw fi les, as well as the 1⁄2" wide 1⁄4" thick tongue. The tongue Veritas fi le holder. Because I planned should be laid out so that the backs to milk paint the saw cabinet, and of the panels are fl ush to the back of because this is a piece for the work- the frame. This will allow you to hang shop, I used through-dovetails for all frame saws on the inside of the door. corners of the drawer. You could use Use the same marking gauge as for the half-blind dovetails for the front, or tenons and mortises to mark out the even a simple nailed drawer, when it tongue. The front face of the tongue is comes to workshop furniture it is all created by raising the panels. I used a down to preference and the time avail- Make middle stile to fi t. A bar gauge panel raising plane for this, although able for the build. Use the cut list as a measures the internal length of the frame for in a pinch you could use a . guide, but be sure to fi t the components the middle stile.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 53 Do it by hand. Raising the panels.

Brackets for the frame saws. These simple Quick kerf. A miter box makes quick work of tool holders are fast to make and work kerfi ng the saw holder. surprisingly well.

chest,soIdecidedtomountthemon brackets are then fixed to the inside of theinsideof thedoorof thesawcabinet. the door with 2d headless cut brads. Each hanging bracket is made of two pieces of 2” wide 1⁄2" thick stock. Glue Finishing Up the two pieces together so that they Before applying any finish, cut the 3 Sample mullet. A mullet the same size as your overlap by ⁄4".Once the glue has cured, mortises for the butt hinges and drill groove will tell you when the tongue is the plane one side flush so that the bracket holesforthedooranddrawerpulls. correct width. is an L-shape, and cut the bracket to Hinge installation is an article in length based on the size of your frame itself,andI’lldefertoNancyHiller’s saw. It is easier to glue and work the excellent advice in the online extras. large backsaws, with a shorter block brackets when they are larger pieces, Onceyouhavefittedthehinges, half the width of the cabinet for smaller soImadetwolargebracketsoneof remove all the hardware and apply backsaws. Depending on the nature which I cut down to provide hangers yourfinishofchoice.Iusedfive of your saw collection you may want formytwosmallerframesaws.The coatsofEmeraldGreenmilkpaintby to adjust the lengths of these blocks. General Finishes, applied with a foam Lay out the kerfs for the saw holders on brush. Finally, I installed two French 11⁄4" centers with a pair of dividers and cleats on the cabinet to prepare for mark their 11⁄4" depth on the sides of hanging the cabinet in my shop. PWM the blocks. To make the kerfs I used a mitre saw Kieran Binnie is a furniture maker and woodwork mounted in a – this ensures writer. He is currently co-writing a book about Welsh stick chair maker John Brown for Lost Art Press. neat kerfs which will be wide enough to fi t most backsaws. If you don’t have a mitre box then a cross-cut will suffi ce. Test the fi t of your saws and use a cross-cut fi led to widen slots as necessary. Use a chisel to cut a chamfer on each edge of the kerf – this will guide the saw plates into ON IN XTRAS their resting place when you put saws For links to all online extras, go to in the completed cabinet. Drill pilot ■ popularwoodworking.com/oct18 holes through the rear of the blocks, VIDEO: Getting Started with Hand Tools making sure that the screws are spaced BLOG: Read more from the author at between the kerfs, and through the overthewireless.com 1⁄ backboards of the cabinet. I used 1 4" ARTICLE: “12 Rules for Tool Chests” No.8 screws to hold t he block s in place, Our products are available online at four evenly spaced screws is enough for ■ ShopWoodworking.com the short block, and I used six for the full-width block. Cut nails. You can see the three rows of cut Frame saws take up a dispropor- nails securing the backboards and the brass tionate amount of space in my tool- screws holding the kerfed blocks.

54 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 CARD #76 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM WOODWORKER’S MARKETPLACE

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56 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 WOODWORKER’S MARKETPLACE

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popularwoodworking.com ■ 57 FLEXNER ON FINISHING BY BOB FLEXNER Defi nition of Terms To master fi nishing, you need to understand the basic terminology.

ll technical fields have their own vocabulary. You’ll have Adiffi culty mastering any tech- nical fi eld without understanding its vocabulary. Here are some of the most commonly used fi nishing terms and their meanings. Sealer (sanding sealer) is the fi rst coat of any fi nish. The fi rst coat penetrates, dries, and seals the pores so the next coat of fi nish (or any oth- er liquid) has difficulty penetrating into the wood. The sealer coat also locks raised wood fi bers in an upright position causing the surface to feel rough. To achieve a smooth fi nal fi n- ish, you should sand the sealer coat smooth before applying additional coats. Special sanding sealers are Sanding sealers. These are available for alkyd varnish and lacquer for the purpose of speeding production because these fi nishes gum up ; sanding sealer powders when sanded. To made for lacquer and alkyd varnish understand this product, put the emphasis on “sanding,” not on “sealer.” that are diffi cult to sand. Sanding seal- ers don’t clog sandpaper as easily as these fi nishes. enhance its appearance. By adding lowed to dry thoroughly before a stain Finish is a substance that changes colorant to a fi nish (usually called a is applied. A washcoat can also be used from a liquid to a solid after it has been binder in this situation), you can make between coloring steps with mini- applied to the wood. The purpose of a stain, glaze, toner or paint. mum build to prevent the colors from a finish is to protect the wood and Film finish is any finish that can running together. be built (by repeated applications) to Thinner (mineral spirits, naphtha, a hard, thick layer, or layers, on top of lacquer thinner, alcohol, water) is any the wood. The key requirement for a evaporating liquid that can be used to fi lm fi nish is t hat it must dr y hard. This thin a fi nish, stain, glaze or pore fi ller is in cont rast to so-called “penet rat ing” to make application easier. fi nishes, such as oil, which don’t dry Solvent (mineral spirits, naphtha, hard. Alkyd and polyurethane varnish, lacquer thinner, alcohol, water) is any shellac, lacquer, water-based fi nish and evaporating liquid that dissolves a dried catalyzed (two-part) finishes are all fi nish, st ain, gla ze or pore fi ller. Often a fi lm fi nishes. solvent for a solid substance is also the Washcoat is any fi nish thinned with thinner for that substance in liquid form. two or more parts thinner to partially Sheen is the degree of gloss in a dried Washcoat. A washcoat is a highly thinned seal the wood and prevent uneven fi nish. Most fi lm fi nishes dry to a gloss fi nish applied to blotch-prone woods (see top stain penetration (blotching) on soft sheen unless flatting agents (gloss- half of birch panel above) to partially seal the pores to reduce the blotching. A washcoat woods such as pine and tight-grained reducing solid particles) are added. can be made from any fi nish. Wood condi- hardwoods such as cherry and birch. Semi-gloss, satin, matte and fl at varnish- tioner is a washcoat made by thinning oil or So-called wood conditioners are oil es, lacquers, and water-based fi nishes varnish. The trick for having success with it is or varnish washcoats. To be effective have had fl atting agents added. These to let it dry thoroughly before applying a stain. these (and all) washcoats have to be al- fi nishes must be stirred before use to CONTINUED ON PAGE 60

58 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

FLEXNER ON FINISHING CONTINUED FROM PAGE 58

Glaze. A glaze is a wonderful decorative product used to produce all sorts of effects, in Sheen. The degree of gloss a completed fi nish produces is determined by the sheen of the last this case defi nition and depth. The procedure coat applied. This is obvious in this example where I applied two coats of satin varnish to the left for doing this is called “glazing,” and is always half of the panel, then one coat of gloss to the left quarter, and two coats of gloss to the right half done over a sealed surface so the glaze can of the panel, then one coat of satin to the right quarter. be manipulated (partially wiped off) without staining the wood. puttheflattingagentsintosuspension. Or,usingspecialglazingtools,youcan Stainchangesthecolorofwood.There make patterns in a glaze that resemble aretwotypesofcolorantusedinstains: woodgrainormarble.Whentheglaze pigment and dye. Pigment particles are isdry,protectitfrombeingscratched opaque and resemble colored earth. off by applying one or more coats of a They settle to the bottom of the can clear, film finish. andmustbestirredintosuspension Pore filler is essentially a glaze with before using. Applied to wood, pig- silica (fine sand) added to provide bulk. ment lodges in recesses, such as pores Porefillerisusedtoproduceamirror- and sanding scratches, large enough flat effect by filling the pores of porous to hold it and remains there after the woodssuchasquarter-sawnoak,ma- excess stain is wiped off. Built up on hogany and walnut before the applica- Pore fi ller. Filling the pores of large-pored wood,pigmentobscuresthewoodlike tionofafilmfinish.Porefillerdoesn’t woods such as and walnut creates paint. Toglue the pigment particles to take stain well, so pigment should be a more elegant look, especially in a raking light. thewood,abinder(oil,varnish,lacquer added before application. You can apply The fi lling can be done directly on the wood to stain and fi ll in one operation, or over a sealed orwater-basedfinish)mustbeinclud- porefillerdirectlytorawwoodtofilland surface, as I’ve done here (right half). ed in the stain. Dye is transparent. It stain in one operation, or you can apply dissolvesratherthansuspendsinthe a different colored filler to a sealed (and liquid. Once dissolved, dye remains stained) surface to highlight the pores, ters of cabinet doors, by darkening the in solution. It can be combined with a asI’vedoneontherighthalfofthepanel surrounding areas. binder, or simply dissolved in a liquid (at right). Rubbing and polishing is the pro- and applied. Toner isfinish,usuallylacquer,with cedure used to level the surface of the Glaze isastainthathasbeenmade dye or pigment added and sprayed. To finalcoatoffinishandraiseorlowerthe thick and resistant to flow so it stays provide better control, thin with up to sheen. Various , including fine whereyouputit,evenonverticalsur- six parts thinner. Toner adds color in sandpaper,steelwoolandrubbingcom- faces. Gel stain, for example, makes verythinlayerswithoutpenetratinginto pounds, are used. Sandpaper removes agoodglaze.Youcanuseaglazeto thewood.Tonercanbeusedtochange dustnibs,orangepeel,brushmarksand darkenorchangethecolortoneof or adjust a color after the wood has otherimperfectionsinthesurface.Steel wood after the wood has been sealed. been sealed. wool and rubbing compounds (fine Youcanleaveaglazeintherecesses Shading stain is a toner used to abrasivepowdersinaliquidorpaste) of carvings, turnings and moldings to change or adjust the color of certain raise or lower the sheen. give the appearance of age and three- partsofwoodwithoutaffectingother dimensional depth. You can feather parts. Shading stains can be used to Bob Flexner is the author of “Flexner on Finishing,” outaglazetohighlightcertainareas, blend sapwood to heartwood and to “ 101” and “Understanding Wood such as the centers of cabinet doors. highlightcertainparts,suchasthecen- Finishing.”

60 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018

END GRAIN BY MARCI CRESTANI Goodbye, Ego! Hello, Humility!

heneverIadmireafellow woodworker’s finished Wpiece of furniture, I never askhowtheydidthisorthatbecause, quite simply, I am afraid they are going to tell me. Listening to some- one describe how they accomplished a difficult or clever woodworking feat is, for me, like listening to someone recounttheirdream:Ijustkeepwait- ingforthepartwheretheytellmethey woke up and it’s over. This sounds horrible, I know. The problem, however, is that more often than not, I simply can’t follow what they’re saying, despite being a woodworker for 10 years and hav- ingbeentaughtbyamazing,accom- shop for the working part of Intro to you are a “slow” learner compared to plished teachers at Cerritos College in Woodworking. I was flummoxed, for your fr iend s? Especially when you have Norwalk, California. example, when the teacher asked, “In no other measure of achievement... What I discovered as I progressed which direction should you feed the because you are fi ve. throughthoseclassesisthatIhave woodintothebitontheroutertable?” Woodworking is a hobby for me. notable problems with spatial visu- Icouldn’tpictureituntilitwasmy Despite being a slow learner, I love it alization. This means that I cannot own wood and just me at the router and I have the option of walking away mentallyvisualizeadvancedconcepts table. Then I could manually turn the from it — something you can’t do when or techniques or objects in three dimen- (unplugged) router bit and see it against you are a child who needs to learn how sions. Consequently, a woodworker thewoodtounderstandwhatfeedingit to read and write and do math. While mayaswellbespeakinginMandarin againsttherotationofthecuttermeant. it is commonly understood t hat wood- when they try to explain anything As I took more advanced classes working is always a humbling endeavor, complicated to me because I just can’t withincreasinglysophisticatedplans, I have noticed that some of us are more seeitinmymind.Unfortunatelythe I became a slower woodworker and constantly humbled by it than others. confusedlookonmyfaceisoftenmis- peoplewouldteasinglyaccusemeof Thus I have gained deep empathy for takenforintenseinterest,spurringthe overthinking things. No, I was merely all kids who struggle mightily to learn. maker on to greater detail. tryingtothink.Ididn’tproducesloppy And yet sometimes when I come This limitation was not evident in work but it could take me a compara- home from school, and my non-wood- theearlyweeksofmyfirstclass,Intro tively enormous amount of time to working husband asks me how my day to Woodworking. In fact, as a jour- achieve what others could simply dash went, I will get all revved up as I explain nalist,Iwasinmyelementwithnote off in the shop. the technical travails that I encoun- taking while my teacher told us about Thisexperiencehasrattledmyself- tered. A gla zed look w ill come into his thepropertiesofwoodandthejobsof image, but the takedown of my ego eyes and in the ultimate irony, I am themachines.Andthemath!Finally, hasbeencushionedbytheknowledge oblivious to it until he stops me with, thehauntingquestionofmyyouth— that I have done fairly well in life with “Marci! I don’t know what you’re talk- “WhenwillIeverneedtomultiplyor my career and other pursuits. This, ing about!” Ah, I understand. divide fractions in real life?”— was in turn, leads me to think about all answered: When I am 53 and take up the young kids in school for whom Marci Crestani is the co-author with Brian Miller of woodworking! learning doesn’t come naturally for The Art of Coloring Wood: A Woodworker’s Guide to Understanding Dyes and Chemicals. But my problem became apparent one reason or another. What must it ratherquicklywhenwemovedintothe be like to start off in life knowing that

64 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2018 PHOTO: MARC CARTER CARD #52 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM CARD #75 or go to PWFREEINFO.COM