Number 10 December 2019

The Old Settler

Tragedy on Independence Creek

The Spirit of Margaret McKenny: Loving the Natural World $5.00

THURSTON COUNTY HISTORICAL JOURNAL

The Thurston County Historical Journal is dedicated to recording and celebrating the history of Thurston County. The Journal is published by the Olympia Tumwater Foundation as a joint enterprise with the following entities: City of Lacey, City of Olympia, Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, Daughters of the American Revolution, Daughters of the Pioneers of Washington/Olympia Chapter, Lacey Historical Society, Old Brewhouse Foundation, Olympia Historical Society and Bigelow House Museum, South Sound Maritime Heritage Association, South Thurston County Historical Society, Thurston County, Tumwater Historical Association, Yelm Prairie Historical Society, and individual donors.

Publisher Editor Olympia Tumwater Foundation Karen L. Johnson John Freedman, Executive Director 360-890-2299 Lee Wojnar, President, Board of Trustees [email protected] 110 Deschutes Parkway SW P.O. Box 4098 Editorial Committee Tumwater, Washington 98501 Drew W. Crooks Jennifer Crooks 360-943-2550 James S. Hannum Erin Quinn Valcho www.olytumfoundation.org

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The Journal welcomes factual articles dealing with any aspect of Thurston County history. Please contact the editor before submitting an article to determine its suitability for publica- tion. Articles on previously unexplored topics, new interpretations of well-known topics, and personal recollections are preferred. Articles may range in length from 100 words to 10,000 words, and should include source notes and suggested illustrations. Submitted articles will be reviewed by the editorial committee and, if chosen for publication, will be fact-checked and may be edited for length and content. The Journal regrets that authors cannot be monetarily compensated, but they will gain the gratitude of readers and the historical community for their contributions to and appreciation of local history.

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ISSN 2474-8048

Number 10 Table of Contents December 2019

2 The Old Settler Drew Crooks

12 Tragedy on Independence Creek James S. Hannum, M.D.

25 The Spirit of Margaret McKenny: Loving the Natural World Sally Turnbull

Back Cover Who/What/Where Is It?

On the cover: Left: Margaret McKenny in her later years. Photograph C2018.0.15, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma, Washington. Top right: Watercolor of Margaret McKenny’s cat, believed to have been painted by Margaret. Image courtesy of Sally Turnbull. Bottom right: Eyeglasses worn by Margaret, and now in the collection of the Wash- ington State Historical Society. Catalog ID number 2013.152.1, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma, Washington. See article on page 25.

1

THE OLD SETTLER

Drew Crooks

There are many ways to learn about amusing poems, including a parody of the past. One method is through the “Mary Had a Little Lamb” in Chinook study of songs from yesteryear. This Jargon. He even wrote a humorous article will examine the curious story novel, titled “Ichabod Noodles,” that of a pioneer song called “The Old Set- has never been published. A manu- tler” which became a modern advertis- script copy survives in the Oregon His- ing legend. Music expert Linda Allen torical Society Library in Portland. in Washington Songs and Lore has de- scribed “The Old Settler” as “the Northwest’s most enduring folk song.”1 Indeed, this humorous ballad has sur- vived over 130 years.

The lyrics of “The Old Settler” were written by Francis Henry, a man who played a key role in the political and business affairs of late 19th Century Olympia. Born in Galena, Illinois on January 17, 1827, he moved in 1862 to Thurston County, Washington where he resided for the rest of his life.

On one hand, Henry worked in the se- rious vocations of surveying, abstract- ing, and law. From 1880 until 1890 he was a probate judge. Henry also served as a member of several legisla- tures and the constitutional conven- tions of 1878 and 1889.

But on the other hand, Henry was a humorist who founded the U. F. & F. This portrait of Francis Henry ap- U., a secret society that seemed to fo- peared in the 1902 publication of “The cus on prank-filled initiations. Fur- Old Settler.” Image courtesy of the thermore, Henry wrote a number of Olympia Tumwater Foundation. 2

Sheet music for “The Old Settler” appeared in the 1902 publication of the song. Im- age courtesy of the Olympia Tumwater Foundation.

Henry wrote “The Old Settler” in the I’d tunneled, hydraulicked, and cra- 1870s while living in Olympia. This dled, song provides a comical look at the And I had been frequently sold. pioneer experience. Too often Ameri- can settlers are portrayed in very seri- “For one who gets riches by mining ous, even grim terms. “The Old Set- Perceiving that hundreds grow poor, tler” poem is certainly different: I made up my mind to try farming – The only pursuit that is sure. “I’d wandered all over the country Cho[rus]. – The only pursuit, &C [etc]. Prospecting and digging for gold – I’d tunneled, hydraulicked, and cra- “So rolling my grub in my blankets, dled, I left all my tools on the ground, And I had been frequently sold. And started one morning to shank it Chorus – For a country they called Puget And I had been frequently s-o-l-d, Sound. And I had been frequently sold; Cho. – For a country, &C.

3

“Arriving flat broke in mid-winter, tune “was grafted on” to a 17th Centu- I found it enveloped in fog, ry Irish melody titled “The Gentile And covered all over with timber Maiden.”4 Thick as hair on the back of a dog. Cho. – Thick as hair, &C. By the early 19th Century “Rosin the Beau” had crossed the Atlantic Ocean “As I looked on the prospect so and become a popular American song. gloomy, Its tune was used for an amazing di- The tears trickled over my face, versity of songs. Besides “The Old Set- For I felt that my travels had brought tler,” the melody served as a temper- me ance song called “The Washington To the edge of the jumping-off place. Badge,” a religious song known as Cho. – To the edge, &C. “Sawyer’s Exit,” a political campaign song for Abraham Lincoln titled “I took up a claim in the forest, “Lincoln and Liberty,” and a populist And sat myself down to hard toil; farmers’ song called “Hayseed Like For two years I chopped and I Me.” [labored],2 But I never got down to the soil. Back in Ireland the tune of “Rosin the Cho. – But I never, &C. Beau” was used for the Irish National- ist song “Men of the West” which re- “I tried to get out of the country, ferred to those individuals in the West But poverty forced me to stay of Ireland who supported the Rebellion Until I became an Old Settler, of 1798 against the English. The cho- Then nothing could drive me away. rus for this song runs: Cho. – Then nothing, &C. “I give you the gallant old West, boys, “And now that I’m used to the climate, Where rallied our bravest and best I think that if man ever found When Ireland lay broken and bleeding; A spot to live easy and happy, Hurrah for the men of the West!”5 That Eden is on Puget Sound. Cho. –That Eden is on, &C. In Folksongs Of Britain And Ireland, Peter Kennedy noted of “Rosin the “No longer the slave of ambition, Beau” that “The tune of this song has I laugh at the world and its shams, enjoyed a separate popularity as a jig- As I think of my pleasant condition, tune for quadrilles and country danc- Surrounded by acres of clams. es. It is also played more slowly as an Cho. – Surrounded by, &C.”3 old-fashioned waltz.”6

Henry adapted “The Old Settler” lyrics Now getting back to “The Old Settler,” to the tune of a popular Irish drinking Francis Henry wrote his song for an song called “Rosin the Beau.” Accord- Olympia Choral Society concert held ing to historian Lucile McDonald, this in Tacoma Hall on April 2, 1877. Taco- 4

In 1877 “The Old Settler” was first sung publicly at the Tacoma Hall, which was located on the second floor of the Good Templar’s Hall (Columbia and 4th Avenue) in Olympia. It is the structure marked “15” (near center) on this detail of Eli Glover’s 1879 birds-eye view of Olympia. Image courtesy of Washington State Library. ma Hall was located on the second This interesting individual was born in floor of a building situated on the Dublin, Ireland on November 27, southwest corner of Columbia and 4th 1846. Twenty-four years later he came in Olympia. At the time the Good Tem- to Olympia in the company of incom- plars Hall occupied the first floor of ing Territorial Governor Edward Salo- the structure. Presently, Danger Room mon. O’Brien went on to an extensive Comics (201 4th Avenue West) is locat- government career, including service ed on this site. as the Adjunct General of the Wash- ington National Guard from 1881 to The audience in Olympia on April 2, 1895. Some historians have called him 1877 received “The Old Settler” with the “Father of the National Guard of great enthusiasm.7 No doubt the posi- Washington.”8 Besides his government tive reception derived in part from the service, as the 1917 reference book musical talents of the man who sang Washington West of the Cascades not- the new song, Rossell G. O’Brien. ed, O’Brien “was known for his fine tenor voice and musical ability.”9 5

On April 7, 1877, five days after the initial performance of “The Old Set- tler,” O’Brien sang the song again as part of an Olympia Dramatic Club program in Columbia Hall. This build- ing was located on 4th Avenue. The 4th Ave Tavern (210 4th Avenue East) oc- cupies the site today.

The April 7th performance was again heartily approved by the audience, as recorded in the Washington Standard newspaper of Olympia:

“The song, ‘Old Settler,’ the lines of which were composed by Mr. Francis Henry of this place, and adapted to that stirring old ballad “Rosin the Beau,” was, as on a previous occasion warmly applauded. The piece fits Mr. Ross O’Brien, in his excellent make- up, to a T., and it would have a decid- ed ‘run’ in other places besides Olym- This sketch by Major W. H. Bell illus- pia.”10 trated the second verse of Francis Hen- ry’s poem. Image courtesy of the Olym- Indeed, “The Old Settler” soon became pia Tumwater Foundation. regionally famous. By 1878 Puget Sound even had a steamboat named The Old Settler. Major W. H. Bell of the Henry recognized the popularity of U.S. Army was among those pleased “The Old Settler.” Later he wrote a se- by the new song. Blessed with artistic quel that has been variously called ei- abilities, he drew a series of sketches ther the “Wail of an Old Settler” or illustrating the poem and presented “Social Decline.” More serious in tone them to Francis Henry. and even including an environmental message, this sequel to the “The Old These sketches by Major Bell became Settler” never achieved the success of closely associated with the comic the earlier rhyme. Here is the entire song. In 1902 Mary A. O’Neil, an early poem. The last stanza is particularly Olympia school teacher and good humorous: friend of Francis Henry, published the song with Major Bell’s drawings. As “Some say this country’s improving, noted in the publication, O’Brien ar- And boast of its commerce and trade, ranged the music.11 6

But measured by social enjoyment “And even the climate is changing, I find it has sadly decayed. For only some ten years ago, Strawberries got ripe in December, “In the pioneer days on the sound, Whilst now it brings four feet of When the people had little to wear, snow.”12 And subsisted on clams the year round, On September 24, 1893 Francis Henry We’d hearty good fellowship here. died in Olympia at the age of 66. He was buried at Odd Fellows Cemetery “The thoughtful, industrious old set- in Tumwater. Fittingly, his obituary tler, included the lyrics of his greatest crea- Was so fond of obliging a friend, tion, “The Old Settler.”13 That if any one wanted his tools, He’d always quit working to lend.

“At our gatherings for pastoral pleas- ure, Dance, pic-nic or social knock down, One man was as good as another; No kind of distinction was shown.

“But now when I go to a party The people around me seem froze; They dare not be social and hearty, For fear they may spoil their store clothes.

“Not only our friendly relations Are dropped for the worship of gold, But th’ solid backbone of the country Is recklessly bartered and sold.

“They’re slashing and selling our tim- ber, Not taking the slightest concern, For what we shall do in the future, Without any fuel to burn.

“And wasting the nat’ral resources In 1893 Francis Henry died in Olym- Our bountiful waters contain, pia. His impressive gravestone still They’re canning our clams and our stands in Tumwater’s Odd Fellows Me- oysters morial Park. Photo courtesy of Jennifer And shipping them off for mere gain. Crooks. 7

By the early 20th Century, “The Old You might think that with the passing Settler” song had became a recognized of Puget Sound’s pioneer generation in pioneer anthem, sung at various the 20th Century, “The Old Settler” events commemorating the early song would have also faded away. American settlers. On March 2, 1903, That was not to be. It was revived and for example, Washington’s Semi- kept alive by an extraordinary individ- Centennial [50th anniversary] Cele- ual, Ivar Haglund. bration was held at the Olympia Thea- ter. Charles Moore, in character, sang Haglund was born in Seattle on March “The Old Settler” accompanied by a 21, 1905. He became, in the words of lantern show of Major Bell’s sketches. historian Paul Dorpat, a “Seattle char- acter, folksinger, and restaura- teur . . . [whose] escapades, public- ity stunts, pronouncements, pranks, and excellent restaurants have become part of Seattle’s unique character as a city.”14

From a young age Haglund was interested in music. He started as a folksinger, and became, again quoting Dorpat, “Puget Sound’s principal champion of regional folk music.”15 Over time Haglund mem- orized more than 200 songs, in- cluding “The Old Settler.” He high- lighted the comic ballad in his mu- sical programs. Apparently Hag- lund even taught the “The Old Set- tler” to fellow folk singers Pete See- ger and Woody Guthrie.

In 1938 Haglund established Seat- tle’s first aquarium at Pier 54 along with a small fish-and-chips stand. He wrote and sang a number of sil- ly songs to promote his business Ivar Haglund (1905-1985), folksinger and ventures. These songs included restaurateur, especially liked “The Old Set- such amusing tunes as “Oscar The tler” and used one line of the song to name Octopus,” “Halley The Halibut,” his “Ivar’s Acres of Clams” restaurant in Se- and “Hermie The Hermit Crab.” attle. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia, IMLS The aquarium prospered, but the Digital Collections & Content. food stand soon closed. 8

Haglund continued to sing “The Old from Acres of Clams. The art: Ivar Settler” on various occasions. In the rushed to the spill with a big spoon 1940s he used the humorous piece of and joyfully scooped the free sweeten- music as the theme song for his local er onto a plateful of pancakes he had radio program. hastily prepared in the Acres’ kitchen. The internationally distributed wire July 26, 1946 proved to be a turning picture of Ivar bent with a spoon over point for Haglund and Seattle. On that the spilled syrup described him as the day he opened Ivar’s Acres of Clams ‘crown prince of corn.’ ”18 restaurant on Seattle’s Pier 56. The new eatery was named after the final In 1958 Haglund performed “The Old lyrical line of “The Old Settler”: “As I Settler” on a nationally broadcast TV think of my pleasant condition, sur- special. A talented musician named rounded by acres of clams.”16 Earl Robinson saw it in New York. Se- attle-born Robinson “was inspired,” The restaurant was imaginatively dec- according to musical historian Peter orated inside with nautical equipment. Blecha, “to score an arrangement suit- Haglund’s aquarium closed ten years able for a full orchestra. And that ver- later, but his Acres of Clams restau- sion – renamed “A Country Called Pu- rant remained open and became a get Sound” – made its concert debut great success. on the Canadian national radio net- work, & was revived again in a high- Haglund proved to be an irrepressible profile appearance when the Seattle entertainer. According to historian Symphony Orchestra (under the baton Paul Dorpat, “even after he opened his of the Maestro, Milton Katims) per- aquarium and his Acres of Clams res- formed it at Seattle’s new Opera taurant, Ivar continued to sing on ra- House in 1963.”19 dio, on stage, and on the sidewalk.”17 He carried out a series of escapades Ivar Haglund died on January 30, and publicity stunts that form a mod- 1985, but his restaurant enterprises ern advertising legend. continue to the present day and have even expanded in size. They presently One of Haglund’s most famous esca- include Ivar’s Acres of Clams, Ivar’s pades was titled “The Great Syrup Salmon House, Ivar’s Mukilteo Land- Spill.” Dorpat has described it: ing, and a chain of restaurants called Ivar’s Seafood Bar. “The Old Settler” “Most of Ivar’s pranks and promotions song remains an important part of the were designed, but one of his best company’s advertising. came by way of good fortune and art- ful timing. The luck: a coupling to a The story of “The Old Settler” shows tank-cart hose broke and squirted a the power of humor to help under- thousand gallons of syrup onto the stand the past. Francis Henry’s poem railroad tracks across Alaskan Way tells us more about the struggles of 9

pioneers than many a serious essay. 2 The word “labored” is used here to Hopefully it will remain part of our replace a racist term that was in the culture, a fascinating remnant of the original poem. Restaurateur/folk sing- pioneer era. er Ivar Haglund and others also chose to remove this racist term. A PERSONAL NOTE 3 Francis Henry, The Old Settler. Olym- I remember many a trip to Ivar’s Acres pia, WA: s.n., 1902. of Clams restaurant in Seattle with my family accompanied by visiting rela- 4 Lucile McDonald, “Francis Henry, tives from back East. Memories in- Pioneer Bard, Led Life Of Adventure.” clude great clam chowder and fish, “The Charmed Land Magazine,” Seat- relatives who tended to order ham- tle Times, January 26, 1964, page 2. burgers at a seafood eatery, and fasci- nating placemats showing “The Old 5 “The Men Of The West,” Irish Song Settler” poem illustrated by Major Lyrics. https://www.irishsongs.com/ Bell’s drawings. The placemats were lyrics.php?Action=view&Song_id=234 my first introduction to the old comic (accessed October 29, 2019). ballad. 6 Peter Kennedy, editor, Folksongs Of ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Britain And Ireland. New York, NY: Schirmer Books, 1975, page 630. My thanks go to those who made this article possible: the staff of the Wash- 7 “The Old Settler.” Washington Stand- ington State Library who provided key ard, April 14, 1877, page 3. information; Karen Johnson (editor of the Thurston County Historical Journal) 8 Jennifer Crooks, “Rossell Galbraith for overseeing the publication process; O’Brien: Olympia’s Irish-American and my family for their support of his- Tenor”, March 13, 2018, ThurstonT- tory. Finally, this article is dedicated alk.com. https://www.thurston to the memory of the late Mrs. Carlye talk.com/2018/03/13/rossell - LaBell. A great English teacher at galbraith-obrien-olympias-irish- Olympia High School, she inspired american-tenor/ (accessed June 29, many students, including myself, to 2019). pursue writing. ______9 Hubert Hunt and Floyd C. Kaylor, Washington West of the Cascades, Vol. NOTES III. Chicago, IL: S. J. Clarke Publish- ing Company, 1917, page 192. 1 Linda Allen, compiler, Washington Songs and Lore. Spokane, WA: Melior 10 “Our Local Dramatic Talent.” Wash- Publications, 1988, page 3. ington Standard, April 14, 1877, page 2. 10

11 Francis Henry, The Old Settler. Copies of this booklet are in var- ious institutional collections, in- cluding the Wash- ington State Li- brary, Tumwater, Washington.

12 “Ten Years Lat- er.” Morning Olym- pian, October 21, 1894, page 1.

13 “Judge Henry’s Death.” Morning For over 70 years, Ivar’s Acres of Clams restaurant has been Olympian-Tribune, a popular eatery on Seattle’s waterfront. Photo courtesy of September 26, Enoch Lai, Wikimedia. 1893, page 1.

14 Paul Dorpat, “Haglund, Ivar (1905- s e a f o o d - s e l l i n g - songster.html 1985),” Essay 2499, June 20, 2000, (accessed July 2, 2019). HistoryLink.org. https://www.history ______link.org/File/2499 (accessed July 2, 2019). Drew Crooks received a bachelor’s de- gree in history and anthropology and a 15 Dorpat. master’s degree in museum studies from the University of Washington. For 16 Henry, The Old Settler. over 30 years he has worked with vari- ous museums in South Puget Sound, 17 Dorpat. and has written a number of articles and several books on the region’s herit- 18 Dorpat. age. ______19 Peter Blecha, “Ivar Haglund, The Seafood-Selling Songster: 1946,” No- vember 2009, Northwest Music Ar- chives. http://nw-music-archives. blogspot.com/2009/11/ivar-haglund-

11

TRAGEDY ON INDEPENDENCE CREEK

James S. Hannum, M.D.

The March 1914 issue of The Timber- Helsing Junction, in the southwest man magazine reports that the corner of Thurston County. Figure 1 Ninemire & Morgan Lumber Compa- details the geography in that region. ny’s mill, south of Rochester, had gone The mill burned on August 29, 1924 into operation. It was located on Mich- and was not rebuilt. The associated igan Hill Road, immediately south of logging railroad was removed in 1925,

Figure 1. Geography near the Ninemire & Morgan Lumber Company mill, located in southwest Thurston County, south of Helsing Junction and Rochester. 12

Illustration of the Ninemire & Morgan mill, inspired by a circa 1920 photograph. The garage at lower left was located along the right-of-way of the county road, as it ex- isted then. This is not the right-of-way occupied today by Michigan Hill Road. Above the garage can be seen the northern edge of the mill. The large building near the center is the company bunkhouse. Illustration by Carol B. Hannum. after all timber under contract to the was born in 1926. She spent her company had been removed. I was childhood there and raised her own gathering information about Ninemire family in that house. & Morgan’s railroad in 2001, and as part of that project, I interviewed Elea- “When she was growing up, there was nor Montfort, who then resided in a mill pond immediately north of the Centralia.1 house. The lumber company had cre- ated the pond by damming the East Notes from that meeting include: “Her Fork of Independence Creek. South of [Eleanor’s] parents moved to a home the house was a long, narrow valley immediately south of the (Ninemire & with bottom land suitable for farming. Morgan) mill in 1917, where Eleanor 13

dori Yamakawa, a t w o - y e a r - o l d daughter, and George Hiroshi Yamakawa, the couple’s ten- month-old son.

“Although many y e a r s h a v e passed, and some details have be- come blurred, the sadness of a trag- edy which oc- curred on Inde- Circa 1920 view northwest toward the Ninemire & Morgan pendence Creek Lumber Company mill. Unseen, to the right of the mill pond, could still be was the eastern segment of the company’s logging railroad. heard in Elea- Photo courtesy of the University of Washington, Clark Kinsey nor’s voice. She Photograph Collection, PH Coll 516.2183. recalled that the family’s name was ‘Yamaguchi,’ Several cottages were located in the and their son, two-ye ar ol d valley, south of Eleanor’s home. In ‘Sammy,’ had drowned in the creek. these cottages lived two immigrant She does not have a personal memory Japanese families whose husbands of Sammy, having learned of him from worked in the mill. Years later, after her parents. Exact dates for his birth the mill closed and the cottages and death have not yet been found in ceased to exist, daffodils planted origi- available Thurston County records. nally by the immigrants still came up Eleanor recalls that Sammy’s mother in the fields plowed by Eleanor’s hus- suffered extreme mental anguish, to band each year. Unmarried Japanese the point of mental illness, after losing men lived in the bunkhouse north of her son. Eventually, she went (or was the mill, with thirteen shown there in sent) back to Japan, apparently with- the 1920 federal census.2 out the rest of her family.

“In 1920, one of the cottages was the “The rest of Eleanor’s story is quite residence of 32-year-old Taichi mystical. During the time she made (Taiichiro) Yamakawa and his family. her home on Michigan Hill Road, the The census declares that he, and his voice of a young child was often heard 26-year-old wife, Hide, were born in outside the house. Sometimes, these Japan. The family also included Mi- were the sounds of a youngster play- 14

ing in the front yard. However, when- half of an hour. Both were certain that ever she went to look, nobody was this was the spirit of Sammy, remain- there. The most dramatic event oc- ing at the place where he drowned.” curred sometime after she was mar- ried. Her husband was working out- Some situations do not seem to side and heard a small child crying. change as time goes by. In 2020, the Thinking that neighbors had come to United States is again grappling with visit, he came into the house to find issues relating to conditions encoun- out who was crying. But, there was no tered by immigrants who wish to make one else in the house besides Eleanor. a new life in America. In reflecting on At that point, they went outside and those issues, Eleanor’s story came could still hear the wailing for another back to me. I wondered if the incon-

The Ninemire & Morgan mill property, showing what is probably the mess hall. Pho- to courtesy of the University of Washington, Clark Kinsey Photograph Collection, PH Coll 516.2182. 15

sistencies in this narrative could be THE YAMAKAWA FAMILY resolved, and what has happened to the people involved (and their de- On the other hand, significant infor- scendants) over the past century. mation was unearthed for the Yama- kawa family. Taiichiro Yamakawa, a To that end, a variety of genealogical married man aged 27 years, arrived in sources were examined, including, but Seattle in 1915, probably for the sec- not limited to, census records, the ond time. He disembarked from the Washington Secretary of State’s birth, ship Awa Maru, which had sailed from death, and marriage indexes, and the Yokohama on March 15. His perma- online website Ancestry. nent home in the United States was stated to be “Lochister” (Rochester), Beginning with the surname and that was also to be his final desti- “Yamaguchi,” no credible evidence nation upon his arrival. His closest could be found to suggest that anyone relative in Japan was a brother who with that name was associated with lived in Chikujo District of Fukuoka the Ninemire & Morgan Lumber Com- Prefecture; this is on Kyushu Island, pany or ever lived at the company’s in the southern part of the Japanese camp on Independence Creek. home islands. Taiichiro stated that his occupation was that of a sawmill worker.3 Figure 2 is part of a 1916 map showing the location of Fukuo- ka Prefecture.

Taiichiro’s wife was Hide Uchim- aru Yamakawa. She arrived in Se- attle on board the Hawaii Maru on May 12, 1916; she was a 21-year-old former resident of Fukuoka Prefec- ture. Her destina- tion was the resi- dence of her hus- band, I. Yamaka- wa, at “N.M.L. Co. Looking across Michigan Hill Road, 1991. The view is north- Rochester, Wa.”4 west, from the place which formerly was the south end of the log pond. Photograph courtesy of the author. Sometime after the 16

1920 U.S. census was recorded, Taiichiro, Hide, and their two children must have moved from the Ninemire & Morgan mill and returned to Ja- pan, for both parents reentered the United States at Seattle in March 1922. Neither of their children, George and Mi- dori, were with them on the Africa Maru. On this entry, the parents’ stated destination was Tacoma. Taiichiro noted his occu- pation was that of “hotel l abo re r.” 5 H o w e v e r, Taiichiro’s name does not appear in Tacoma city di- rectories published by Polk, in the four years af- ter 1922. He and his wife Figure 2. City of Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture, Island could not be located by of Kyusha, Japan, in The Ideal Atlas of the World, examination of the 1930 Rand, McNally and Company, 1916. federal census.

Both Yamakawa children were born in tober 30, 1937. She was a passenger Tacoma; Midori on October 21, 1917, on the Tatsuta Maru, one of three sis- and George on February 22, 1919.6 ter ships operated by Nippon Yusen Just one Japanese doctor, K. Ito, Phy- Kaisha (NYK Line) in the company’s sician and Surgeon, had an office premier, Orient-California service. At there. The address was Room #2 in entry, her last permanent address was the New Tacoma Hotel, at 1354 ½ Fukuoka Prefecture.8 The 1940 federal Broadway. That hotel was east of the census reports that she was married Tacoma Union Station, in an area to Harry Ono and the couple had a known as Japantown. Dr. Ito’s resi- two-year-old son, Richard. Even dence was not far away, at 509 15th though she was an American citizen, Street.7 having been born in the United States, Midori was interned during World War Midori and George returned to the II at Heart Mountain, Wyoming.9 She United States in the 1930s. Midori ar- eventually returned to Los Angeles, rived unmarried in Los Angeles on Oc- and was a resident of Huntington 17

Beach when she died May 12, 1998. Relocation Center in California.12 Af- terwards, he returned to the Los Ange- George Hiroshi Yamakawa disem- les area, where he died August 1, barked from the Heian Maru at Seattle 2005. on May 29, 1935. His last residence was said to have been Japan and his THE KIYONO FAMILY destination was Tacoma. The record indicates that his father, Taiichiro Kiyono was the surname of the other Yamakawa, was then living in Fukuo- immigrant family living south of the ka Prefecture, at the town of Uenoka- Ninemire & Morgan mill, near Eleanor wachi, in the neighborhood of Nishisu- Montfort’s home. Shinkichi Kiyono, a mida-Mura.10 George obtained a pass- married man born in Japan, sailed port visa in Tacoma July 25, 1940 and from Kobe, Japan on the Yokohama returned to Japan. He reentered the Maru on October 10, 1915. He had United States at Los Angeles on May been in the United States previously, 31, 1941; his declaration, at that time, for his last permanent address was indicates that his last permanent ad- said to have been Tacoma, and Taco- dress was in Los Angeles. He arrived ma was his stated final destination. on the Tatsuta Maru.11 George was in- He was a 28-year-old sawmill worker terned during the war at the Tule Lake (born November 5, 1886) who had got- ten married the year be- fore, during his return visit to Japan.13 The 1920 federal census re- ports that the given name of Shinkichi’s wife was Tetsu. She arrived in Seattle in 1916 aboard the Inaba Maru (NYK Line), which sailed from Kobe, Japan, on October 24. Tetsu was 22 years old; birth certificates (in the United States) of the Kiyono family’s children indicate that her maiden name was Fujii. The 1916 arrival record men- tions that she was from Fujibayashi Mura Figure 3. City of Kushimoto, Wakayama Prefecture, (Fujibashi Mura), Nishi Japan, in The Ideal Atlas of the World, Rand, McNally Moro (Nishimuro) Dis- and Company, 1916. trict, Wakayama Prefec- 18

born in Kushimoto, lo- cated in Higashimuro District of Wakayama Prefecture.15 Figure 3 locates Wakayama Pre- fecture, in 1916.

Shinkichi and Tetsu had several children in Washington State. Yo- shiko K. Kiyono was born September 5, 1917, in Thurston County. Eventually, she married Robert Na- katsu who, in 1955, was the proprietor of Bob’s Grocery in Seat- tle. That same year, Yoshiko was a clerk at the U.S. Public Health Service Hospital in Se- attle.16 She held the job of financial manag- er at that hospital up- on her retirement in 1980.17 She died No- vember 26, 2009 in Bellevue.

Other children of Shinkichi and Tetsu include: daughter Chiyeko, born 1920; A circa 1920s photograph of Shinkichi Kiyono, his wife daughter Kazue, born Tetsu, and one of their children. Photo courtesy of Lisa 1923 (valedictorian of Nakatsu, a granddaughter of the Kiyono family. the 1940 graduating class at Onalaska High ture.14 The 1940 draft registration School); son Masami, born August 16, card of her husband, Shinkichi, notes 1925 (vice-president of the 1942 class that he was an employee of the Car- at Onalaska High School);18 and an- lisle Lumber Company mill at Onalas- other daughter, Mary Michiyo Kiyono, ka in Lewis County, and had been born 1927. 19

It might be significant that Masami (the second “a” in this name is pronounced as is the “o” in “hobby”) was born in the year before Elea- nor Montfort’s birth, proba- bly right after the Kiyono family moved to Onalaska. “Masami” is a name that is commonly given to both boys and girls. However, the nick- name “Sami” is typically used only for girls.

Also, possibly significant is the fact that the Kiyonos had one additional child, who died before his first birthday. His birth certificate errone- ously calls him “Kaomi Ki- yono” and mentions that he was a male child, born April 27, 1919 in Pierce County.19 The baby’s death certificate correctly indicates that his given name was Naomi, and he passed away at 3:00 a.m. on October 20, 1919 at “Scace’s Hospital” in Centra- lia. The cause of death was A photograph made July 1, 1942 at the Tule Lake “Pneumonia, Lobular, Bilat- Relocation Center, Newell, California. The caption eral.” His family resided at reads: “Shinkichi Kiyono, 56, evacuee from Helsing Junction, where the Longview, Washington, exhibits the cabinet which father, Shinkichi, worked for won for him first prize (a carpenter’s plane) in a fur- “N. & M. Lbr. Co.”20 niture building contest. All pieces of furniture were made from scrap lumber.” Photographer Francis The Scace Hospital was also Newell Stewart, California. Photograph D-15, from known as the Employee Hos- Online Archive of California. War Relocation Author- pital, for it provided care for ity Photographs of Japanese-American Evacuation families of workers at about and Resettlement, 1942-1945, BANC PIC twenty area sawmills. The 1967.014—PIC, The Bancroft Library, University of director was Lee A. Scace, California, Berkeley. M.D.21 20

The baby’s obituary appeared on page NOTES eight of the October 20, 1919 issue of The Centralia Daily Chronicle. “The fu- 1 The 1930 federal census of Grand neral services of Naomi Kiyono, aged Mound Precinct of Thurston County, five months, 23 days, the infant Washington reports that Eleanor D. daughter of S. Kiyono, of Rochester, Chaussee lived on Michigan Hill Road. were held this afternoon at 2 o’clock She was the four-year-old (born Janu- from the Sticklin Chapel, Rev. H. W. ary 26, 1926) daughter of Raymond F. Thompson officiating. Interment was and Mary A. Chaussee. Her first hus- in the Sticklin Cemetery. The death of band was Hoyt Countryman; after be- the child occurred this morning.” ing widowed, she married Bill Mont- fort. CONCLUSION 2 Department of Commerce, Bureau of Reviewing these data regarding the the Census, Fourteenth Census of the Yamakawa and Kiyono families is United States: 1920-Population, helpful in analyzing the story told by Washington, Thurston, Rochester Pre- Eleanor Montfort. Her narrative may cinct, Sheet 17A, “N. & M. Saw Mill B. have been a blend of facts and events H.” from both immigrant families. Certain- ly, none of her memories came from 3 National Archives and Records Ad- personal experience. Differences in ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- language and social custom have senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, probably added to the uncertainties Series Number M1383, Arriving Seat- noted here. But there must have been tle, 1890-1957, “List or Manifest of grains of truth contained in the tragic Alien Passengers for the United tale she told. The Kiyono family clearly States,” S. S. Iwa Maru, Passengers had a child who perished. Medically Sailing from Yokohama, Japan 15th speaking, a near-drowning can pro- March 1915. duce pneumonia. The Yamakawa fam- ily had a son, Masami, who may have 4 National Archives and Records Ad- been nicknamed “Sami”; this might ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- have been interpreted as “Sammy” by senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, Eleanor’s parents. Moreover, the Series Number A3691, Arriving Seattle Yamakawa family did return to Japan, 1890-1924. Arrived May 12, 1916, at least for some period, between 1920 Ship Hawaii Maru. and 1922. Much time has passed since these events, and now, there 5 National Archives and Records Ad- probably is no way to be certain about ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- what happened on Independence senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, Creek a century ago. Series Number M1383, Passenger and ______Crew Lists of Vessels Arriving at Seat- tle, Records of the Immigration and 21

A Ninemire & Morgan mill logging site, showing two small bunkhouses of a type commonly moved by rail from place to place as the site of active logging changed. The caption for this photo mentions “an Asian railroad construction crew.” Photo courtesy of the University of Washington, Clark Kinsey Photograph Collection, PH Coll 516.2188.

Naturalization Service, 1787-2004, 7 Polk’s Tacoma City Directory, 1919. “List or Manifest of Alien Passengers Tacoma, Washington: R. L. Polk & for the United States,” S. S. Africa Company, 1919. Maru, Passengers Sailing from Yoko- hama, Japan 15th March 1922. 8 National Archives and Records Ad- ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- 6 Washington State Department of senger Lists of Vessels Arriving at San Health, Birth Index, 1870-1935. Pedro/Wilmington/Los Angeles, Cali- 22

fornia, Record Group 85, S. S. Tatsuta 13 National Archives and Records Ad- Maru, “List or Manifest of Alien Pas- ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- sengers for the United States,” Pas- senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, sengers Sailing from Yokohama, Ja- Series Number M1383, Arriving Seat- pan, 12 October 1937. tle, 1890-1957, “List or Manifest of Alien Passengers for the United 9 Midori Ono, in United States Depart- States,” S. S. Yokohama Maru, sailing ment of the Interior, War Relocation from Kobe, Japan 10 October 1915. Authority, Final Accountability Ros- ters of Evacuees at Relocation Cen- 14 National Archives and Records Ad- ters, 1942-1946, Heart Mountain Re- ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- location Center, November 1945, Vol- senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, umes I and II. Series Number M1383, Arriving Seat- tle, 1890-1957, “List or Manifest of 10 National Archives and Records Ad- Alien Passengers for the United ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- States,” S. S. Inaba Maru, sailing from senger and Crew Lists, 1882-1965, Kobe, Japan 24 October 1916. Series Number M1383, Arriving Seat- tle, 1890-1957, “List or Manifest of 15 Department of Selective Service, Alien Passengers for the United Registration Card (men born on or af- States,” S. S. Heian Maru, Passengers ter April 28, 1877 and on or before Sailing from Yokohama, Japan, May February 16, 1897), Serial Number 29, 1935. U2318.

11 National Archives and Records Ad- 16 AncestryLibrary.com, U.S. City Di- ministration, Washington, D.C., Pas- rectories, 1822-1995, Seattle, Wash- senger Lists of Vessels Arriving at San ington, City Directory, 1955. Pedro/Wilmington/Los Angeles, Cali- fornia, Record Group 85, S. S. Tatsuta 17 Obituary of Yoshiko K. Nakatsu. The Maru, “List or Manifest of Alien Pas- Seattle Times, December 9-December sengers for the United States,” Pas- 12, 2009. sengers Sailing from Yokohama, Ja- pan, arrival date in Los Angeles 31 18 Brian Mittge, “Remembering The May 1941. Day We Sent Our Neighbors Away,” http://www.chronline.com/opinion/, 12 George Hiroshi Yamakawa in United affiliated with The Daily Chronicle, States Department of the Interior, War Centralia, Washington, June 2, 2017 Relocation Authority, Final Accounta- (accessed 2018). bility Rosters of Evacuees at Reloca- tion Centers, 1942-1946, Tule Lake 19 Washington State Department of Relocation Center, March 1946, Vol- Health, Washington State Births 1907- umes I and II. 1919.

23

A section gang constructs a new segment of the Ninemire & Morgan logging railroad near Rochester. The caption for this photo mentions “an Asian railroad construction crew.” Photo courtesy of the University of Washington, Clark Kinsey Photograph Col- lection, PH Coll 516.2191.

20 Naomi Kiyono, filed October 20, Public Health Service. Railroad history 1919. Washington State Board of has been a life-long interest, and he Health, Bureau of Vital Statistics, Cer- has written several books on the sub- tificate of Death, Record Number 284, ject. Registered Number 91. ______

21 Herbert Hunt and Floyd C. Kaylor, Washington: West of the Cascades. Vol. II. Chicago: S. J. Clarke Publish- ing Company, 1917, pages 610-611. ______

Dr. Hannum is a retired physician and surgeon who spent his early years in Michigan. He arrived in western Wash- ington in 1971 as a member of the U.S. 24

THE SPIRIT OF MARGARET MCKENNY: LOVING THE NATURAL WORLD

Sally Turnbull

Olympia native Margaret McKenny Thomas Irving McKenny and Cynthia was an author, photographer, mycolo- Adelaide King McKenny.3 She was the gist, poet, educator, conservationist, youngest of four children.4 She had environmental activist, preservation- two brothers, twins Samuel Miller ist, landscape architect, and ornithol- McKenny and William Belknap ogist. Margaret earned many of these McKenny, and a sister, Ida King titles while the professions were still in McKenny.5 Together they lived in a their infancy or were dominated by house on the corner of Capitol Way men. Well-known local author Gordon (then Main Street) and 7th Street near Newell stated that Margaret “was like where the federal building stands (now a renaissance woman, dabbling in all the James Dolliver Building). sorts of arts and science”1 and that her life “was devoted to convincing President Andrew Johnson sent Gen- people that we are living in one of the eral McKenny to Olympia in 1867 from most beautiful places in the world and Missouri to serve as the Superinten- that above everything else, we should dent of Indian Affairs of Washington preserve it.”2 Territory.6 McKenny was remembered for many things, not the least of which Margaret was born in Olympia in was his Civil War bravery. In the Bat- 1885, and moved to the East Coast in tle of Sugar Creek in 1864, General the 1920s. Although she moved back McKenny received head and hip to Olympia from New York in 1943, wounds (when he died in 1900, his Thurston County would not fully real- doctors attributed his death to compli- ize its good fortune until much later. cations from these injuries). He was Her decades-long activism, arguing for also president of the State Hospital for environmental interests over commer- the Insane for three years, was active- cial objectives, made a lasting and ly interested in development of positive impact on our community. As schools,7 was a pharmacist, and oper- a result, a number of places in the ated a pharmacy on 4th Street. Olympia area are named after her. Later, he became quite involved in real EARLY YEARS estate development, building the McKenny block in downtown Olympia, Margaret was the daughter of General and participating in building the 25

Olympia Hotel. Gordon Newell in Rogues, Buffoons and Statesmen notes that “General McKenny became a prime mover in a project to erect a truly palatial ho- tel with which the commu- nity could bedazzle the leg- islators.” With other civic leaders “he formed the Olympia Hotel Corporation, a community stock compa- ny in which scores of loyal citizens became stockhold- ers.”8

He was eulogized for being “a brave soldier, a gallant officer, a good citizen, a kind and loving husband and father and an honest man. . . . [and] in every sense intensely American.”9 An Iowa newspaper charac- terized him as a man of firmness, grit and determi- nation.10 Margaret demon- strated many of her father’s characteristics and referred to him often in her writing, always with a sense of pride and respect.

Though Margaret did not write as frequently about Margaret McKenny at age 12. Photograph courtesy her mother, Cynthia, she of Washington State Library, Margaret McKenny was an early source of in- Papers. spiration. In her 1929 book Mushrooms of Field and Wood, Mar- in nature study.”11 garet’s dedication reads: “To my Moth- er who always encouraged my excur- Margaret attended the Providence sions into field and wood, and to Academy in Olympia, which was locat- Mother Mary Wilfred, my first teacher ed only two blocks from her home, 26

graduating in the class of 1902. Mag- BACK EAST gie Raymond, a schoolmate of Mar- garet’s from Providence, remembers In the 1920s Margaret went back East her as “the smartest one in her class. to study landscape design at She was always writing articles. The Lowthorpe School of Landscape Archi- teacher idolized her and she idolized tecture in Massachusetts. When Mar- the teacher. They had their heads to- garet arrived in Boston, one of the first gether a lot. After graduation, Sister things she did was visit the famous Wilfred would come to visit and Mar- Arnold Arboretum, which impressed garet would take her around. You her very much.15 She served on the could see them on their hands and staff of the Coordinating Council on knees in the grass and out in the Nature Activities for The American country photographing wildflowers.”12 Museum of Natural History. For six After her graduation from Providence, years she served as Secretary for the Margaret attended the University of Special Publications Committee for the Washington and also the Lowthorpe Garden Club of America, working on a School of Landscape Architecture in history of American gardening. Nine of Groton, Massachusetts.13 the fifteen books she published were written when she lived in New York, MCKENNY HOUSE including Your City Garden in 1937 and Birds in the Garden and How to In 1913, Margaret, her mother, broth- Attract Them in 1939. ers and sister moved from their house on 7th Avenue and Capitol Way to a While in New York, she also wrote a house they built at 2201 South Water number of articles. One she wrote in Street. The house, which still stands, the 1930s for the New York Horticul- was directly across from the State tural Society Bulletin shows a glimpse Capital Museum (the Lord Mansion of her philosophy on trees: “Perhaps and Coach House). At that time, the America’s slowness to appreciate the area was very densely wooded and full desirability of trees in our cities is a of wildflowers. direct inheritance from our pioneer forefathers. In every old chronicle we Margaret set up a progressive kinder- read of how the axe rang through the garten and school at the house which land, so terrified by the great forests she operated for six years. The family which stretched from the Atlantic to lived downstairs, and the school was the Pacific, our ancestors set out to upstairs. Margaret charged $5.00 per destroy the trees and build themselves month for each student. The an- into checkerboard cities. Today we see nouncement for the opening of the how well their work of destruction was school’s fifth year stated that “the carried on.”16 names of wildflowers and birds are taught, and general love and observa- One of Margaret’s most significant ac- tion of nature encouraged.”14 tivities was her service as Executive 27

McKenny house on South Water Street in Olympia, 1939. Thurston County Asses- sor photograph, courtesy of Southwest Regional Archives Branch, Washington State Archives.

Secretary of the City Gardens Club of RETURN TO WASHINGTON New York City, a position which car- ried great authority. She was exposed In 1943, Margaret left the East Coast to famous naturalists and members of and returned to Washington State. In the National Audubon Society, and an interview, she said that Washing- learned a great deal from them and ton was “the most beautiful state in from the vast amount of information the union.”18 In a poem titled “The she found in the libraries. She became Well Pacific,” she referred to her years acquainted with Junius Bird, a na- on the East Coast as being in exile: tionally-known botanist and conserva- tionist, and Louise Beebe Wilder, a “When in exile, well-known eastern botanist.17 Mar- What I longed for most garet’s love of nature matured in her Was the air of home, work in New York City and her envi- Sweet, pure air ronmental interests and knowledge Flowing across my face, were strengthened. Straight from the ocean.”19

28

Shortly after her return to Washing- things, even the moon, but this is the ton, Margaret visited Mount Spokane first time I ever heard one wanting a as a guest of the Washington State mountain.”20 Margaret held her sights Parks staff. The Spokane Daily Chroni- high and felt that nothing was beyond cle reported that “Margaret was up her reach. every morning at 4.30 a.m. In talking about the beauty of our mountain she In Olympia, one of the first things she said wistfully ‘I wish someone would pursued was development of a radio give me a mountain.’ A mountain! program featuring the beauty and re- That knocked me off balance. Women, sources of our state. here below, have asked for a lot of

Margaret McKenny, Alta Grim, and Mr. Price with a microphone making a radio broadcast for station KTBI, Tacoma. Photograph by Lee Merrill, from Washington State Library Collection, courtesy of Washington State Archives, Digital Archives. 29

In 1945, the Washington State Parks so the timber on the 180 acres of land Committee hired Margaret to serve as known as the Old Olympia Watershed the Committee’s official photographer. (now Watershed Park) was appraised She was so intense in her quests that and planned to be sold to the highest she would often get up before dawn to bidder. This watershed is located with- catch certain lights in photographing a in minutes of the Capitol and has flower or a bird. She would sometimes been described as “a steep-sided am- sit up all night making camera studies phitheater, covered with a heavy forest of the moon. Some of her photography of Douglas Fir; a virgin forest in the even received national acclaim.21 heart of the city; heritage of our native forest.”24 Leo Gallagher, then head of Hundreds of school children and com- the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, munity members attended her slide compared it to Central Park in New shows on wildflowers, mushrooms, York City, stating “that although Cen- and national parks. She conducted tral Park could now be sold for mil- these sessions with a mixed attitude, lions of dollars, it would not be.” as a 1944 diary entry mentions: “I like to show people the beauty that though Everyone had a plan for the water- it is so near them they often pass by. shed’s future. The Washington State And yet when I’m through I feel utterly Parks and Recreation Commission exhausted, not with the fatigue I feel wanted to make the area into a park. after a day of photographing, but men- The Olympia Planning Commission tal exhaustion. But if just one person suggested dividing it into large resi- seems to really appreciate the exquis- dential lots and logging the remaining ite loveliness of a close-up view of area. A member of the Washington some very simple flower, then I am re- State Game Department felt that the vived and exhilarated again.”22 watershed was an ideal site for a fish hatchery.25 In April 1955 an explana- In 1953, Margaret was instrumental in tory hearing (not a public hearing for forming Olympia’s branch of the input) was held at Olympia City Hall. Audubon Society and later served as Everything was explained except what its president. Julius Peterson, an good the public would get out of the Olympia conservationist and member timber in the long run. Days after that of the Audubon Society, recalls Mar- hearing, Margaret, as Audubon Presi- garet’s direct approach. “She called me dent and Chairman of the Olympia on the phone one day and said ‘I’ll be Garden Club’s Conservation Commit- the first president and you’ll be the tee, spoke out against the plan in The secretary.’ ”23 Daily Olympian. She commented on her attendance at that hearing by say- THE OLD OLYMPIA WATERSHED ing “It was announced that this was to be done, not whether the people, as a In 1955, the City of Olympia’s Water whole, wished it to be done.”26 She Department needed cash, or so it said, challenged the Commission with the 30

One of several trails in Watershed Park. Margaret McKenny’s efforts to save the old watershed from logging resulted in the creation of this wonderful sylvan park. Pho- tograph by Jer Hughes, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. question, “Why wasn’t there a public not sold. Tom Allen, Commissioner of meeting to discuss whether this log- Public Works, said the City was con- ging should be done before a survey sidering using the money from the was made?” and argued for the crea- sale of the timber to expand water tion of a park instead.27 mains to outside areas to serve more people. The rationales continued. The Olympia Chamber of Commerce opposed the timber sale, insisting that Another hearing was held and Marga- the financial position of the Olympia ret presented petitions bearing hun- Water Department was good. The dreds of signatures.28 The petitions Olympia City Commission threatened urged the City Commission to forget to raise water rates if more water was about selling the timber or at least go 31

slowly and give more consideration to Margaret held frequent meetings at the problem. The Mayor also went on her home to discuss the group’s strat- record against the proposal.29 However egy. Prospective buyers submitted in June 1955, the City Commission their bids anyway, and the city discov- decided to let the chips fall where they ered it could get $70,000 for the tim- might and instructed the city clerk to ber. They criticized a “small minority” call for bids for logging the timber. At for blocking the sale and denying the this juncture, Margaret organized a much-needed funds.34 group called Citizens for the Future, undertaking an initiative ordinance Citizens for the Future lost the first campaign to tie the Commissioners’ round when the Thurston County Su- hands. Their goal was to preserve the perior Court upheld a request to throw Watershed Park as it stood, for public the lawsuit out. The decision was use, and to keep it from commercial based on the incorrect legal channels exploitation. being used in seeking the block, and because the logging project was By July 1, Margaret’s organization had properly within the legal domain of 2,600 signatures and needed 400 city officials.35 The next day, Mar- more.30 Citizens for the Future held a garet’s group appealed the Superior meeting on the evening of July 4 at Court’s decision to the Washington the State Capital Museum Coach State Supreme Court. Chief Justice House, to collect petitions and plan Frederick Hamly issued a restraining their next move, as the City Commis- order blocking plans to log the timber sion was planning to open bids for log- until a hearing on July 29.36 ging on July 5.31 A series of legal moves ensued, but the However, on July 5, Judge Raymond final outcome was that the watershed W. Clifford, Thurston County Superior remained intact. Citizens for the Fu- Court, issued an injunction preventing ture dropped their suit when the City a contract to be awarded until after a placed the issue on the ballot. The or- hearing the following Monday.32 The dinance adopted by the people in a court order was the result of a suit special election in December 1955 filed by six members of Citizens for the stated that the watershed would never Future to delay action on the sale un- be used for anything other than an til residents could vote on the initia- emergency water supply, or for other tive. The six contended that a delay public purposes, unless such other would cause no harm to the city, and use was approved by the vote of the maintained that the watershed timber people;37 thus today’s Watershed Park was young and would actually in- was created. On the anniversary of crease in value over the next few that ordinance, ten years later, the months.33 The battle was on and it Thurston County Commissioners de- was covered almost daily in the news- clared December 13 to be Margaret paper, often making the front page. McKenny Appreciation Day.38 32

On Arbor Day (April 3), 1963, Governor Albert Rosellini plants a tree on the grounds of the State Capital Museum in Olympia. Accompanying him are Sherry Ehrman, Robert Carpenter, and Margaret McKenny. Photograph C1986.43.63.4.3.7.1, Wash- ington State Historical Society, Tacoma, Washington.

STREET TREES which she was responsible for plant- ing the English double-flowering haw- Margaret, with her intense love for thorns and eastern red maples that trees, served on a 1957 committee in 33

are still present along Capitol Way.39 reading about them in Margaret’s Margaret remembered that “since very books. early days Olympia has been a city of trees and tree lovers. My father, who Robert Dunn of Olympia remembers came here in 1867, said even then finding an interesting-looking mush- that Olympia looked like a New Eng- room while playing in the woods in land town.”40 The Street Committee, 1967 when he was eight years old. He under Mayor Amanda Smith’s leader- informed his mother that he was tak- ship, planted the first trees on Capitol ing it to school to show his class- Way from 14th Street to 24th Street.41 mates. His mother told him no, to which he replied “If I can’t take it to MUSHROOMS school, I’m not going to school.”46 So he was off to school to show his treas- Anyone who is interested in mush- ure. The school called Margaret for rooms knows about Margaret’s book identification. It was a Laetiporus sul- The Savory Wild Mushroom, published phureus (chicken-of-the-woods), and is in 1962.42 She is probably best known an edible non-poisonous fungi. nationally as an authority on mush- rooms. Her book is described as one of TEACHING the best guides for mushroom hunt- ers, and because of its high demand is Children adored Margaret. Besides regularly on hold at the Timberland teaching kindergarten in her early Regional Library system.43 years, she also taught creative writing. She began her classes by having the Margaret loved to gather and cook children describe: “What are the ten mushrooms, but she also enjoyed most beautiful things you have seen photographing and painting water- or heard this morning?” Kaye Sandahl colors of them. was a neighbor and friend of Mar- garet’s and did much of her typing as People often dropped by her house well. Sandahl’s children played at with mushrooms they had collected to Margaret’s house almost daily, and ask for identification. In 1963 Marga- she said “Margaret was a wonderful ret received the third annual award for influence on children. She gave of her- “Outstanding Contributions to Ama- self to all of the children and really teur Mycology” by the People to People cared about them. She saw their abili- Committee on Fungi (now the North ties and potential in a different way American Mycological Association).44 than perhaps parents do. My children Once when Helen Keller was in Olym- were very lucky to have known her.”47 pia giving a lecture, Margaret, Helen, Margaret seemed to have a driving and Helen’s interpreter went on a na- urge to get people, especially children, ture walk and collected mushrooms.45 to develop an appreciation for the in- Helen was able to identify them by tangibles. their touch, as she had remembered 34

A display of wild mushrooms in Margaret’s kitchen in her house on Water Street. Photograph taken by Margaret; courtesy of Washington State Library, Margaret McKenny Papers.

FRIENDS she also had a great interest in Olym- pia’s people. Mike Contris, a writer for The Daily Olympian and professor at Saint Mar- At that time, Olympia was growing, so tin’s College (now University), knew Contris was introduced to many new- Margaret well. He and Margaret comers through her. Professors, art- worked together on educating the ists, budding authors and poets, doc- public, through his reporting, about tors, businessmen and city officials local environmental issues, mush- gathered at Margaret’s house on Water rooms, and other topics. Contris stat- Street in the evenings to discuss art, ed, “She was the first to convince me eat oysters, and drink wine. Contris and others, through the articles she recalled “There she would be, at the wrote, that we ought to attend to the top of her stairs, elegantly sitting in environment.”48 He remembered that 35

Circa 1965, Margaret poses with a group of students and their teacher. Margaret displays her book Mushrooms. Photograph C2009.0.5, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma, Washington. her big rocking chair with her huge read, and the Indian legends she had cat on her lap. And just outside the written. She would try to help new window next to her hung a huge piece writers get started and rewarded their of suet and breadcrumbs scattered on creativity with her praise.”50 the roof for the birds. She was the grand ol’ dame with all of her favorites Charles Roe from Olympia was anoth- around her.”49 Contris went on to de- er friend of Margaret. He and his wife, scribe the living room as a “huge clut- Marilyn, sometimes visited her at her ter of dried mushrooms, stacks of po- home. During the colder months, ems by various poets she wanted to when she would turn on the heat, he 36

remembered the jolt of the furnace THE NISQUALLY DELTA would send dust billowing around the room.51 In one of her untitled poems Margaret’s last environmental cause she reflected, “If I were a better house- before her death in 1969 was the keeper, I couldn’t do this.”52 Nisqually Delta. The 3200-acre parcel has significant cultural and historical ENVIRONMENTAL ADVOCACY value and includes Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, In the 1950s, under Washington State which was intended to protect the Governor Arthur B. Langlie’s admin- Southern Puget Sound’s last major istration, Margaret, along with several unspoiled river delta. Dan McLachlan, environmental groups, succeeded in reporting in the Tacoma News Tribune, preserving the Percival Cove area as a described the delta in 1979: “It is no resting place for birds. wonder that motorists, passing by the delta…can’t help but turn their heads Margaret also rallied support for keep- to look out over its expanse. The delta ing Sylvester Park a public place. In appeals to something deep in every 1955, she and others galvanized the person’s subconscious. It is a funda- community to oppose the construction mental truth.”58 of a parking garage underneath the park.53 As with the Old Olympia Wa- Weyerhaeuser proposed putting a port tershed, the debate was settled when in the delta for log export, but the the issue was put on the ballot in state had designated it “an area of March 1956. The proposal to build the particular concern,” and environmen- garage was defeated by 60% of the vot- talists were fighting to protect it. The ers.54 fight was a long one, in and out of the courts.59 In August 1963, Margaret opposed a proposal to develop 40 acres of Priest Margaret was always interested in the Point Park into a recreational area to delta and fought for its preservation as include several baseball fields. “I do early as 1947 when the Washington not wish to speak against ball parks, State Game Department became inter- but I feel the city can secure cleared ested in acquiring it for game manage- land in another area which could be ment, to include some hunting for the used for this purpose,” she wrote.55 public. In 1964, she argued against Due to the advocacy efforts by Marga- the City of Seattle’s proposal to use ret and the Audubon Society, the City the delta as a place to bury its gar- of Olympia abandoned the plan.56 Ac- bage.60 When the Port of Tacoma cording to the hearing minutes of the wanted to amend its comprehensive Olympia Parks and Recreation Com- plan to include 2,500 acres of the del- mission, a later plan proposed more ta for a deep water port, she object- passive recreational activities.57 ed.61 She brought the issue before the Audubon Society. At the Port’s public 37

hearing on the amendment in August Although Margaret never married and 1965, Society members packed the had no children of her own, she be- hearing room. Since all public testimo- lieved that children were “the hope of ny could not be taken, the hearing life.” was continued into September.62 Margaret McKenny believed in the val- In 1965, Margaret organized a group ue of preserving places like the known as the Washington Citizens Nisqually Delta. She ardently believed Committee For Outdoor Resources.63 in the necessity of beauty in everyday Its purpose was to preserve the life, and in the importance of keeping Nisqually Delta from any deep water wild places wild. She knew that you port or industrialization. Part of her couldn’t approach nature by beating it campaign was to get citizens involved into submission and she effectively led in writing their state legislators, con- the way toward this realization. She gressional representatives, and other wrote in her 1954 book Wildlife of the federal, state and local governments. Pacific Northwest, “I feel that to be a She wrote to Lady Bird Johnson, U. S. nature lover, as I am, is to have an in- Senators Henry Jackson and Warren exhaustible store of riches to share Magnuson (both from Washington with others. And, if in this volume, I State), the Department of the Interior, have shared my appreciation of this and many preservationists throughout wealth, I am well rewarded.” the country.64 The fact that she was known as a naturalist in both the west Margaret dedicated her entire life to and the east helped the cause. preserving this precious wealth. In do- ing so, she helped to shape the history She believed the delta was of great val- of Thurston County in a colorful and ue to colleges in studying water, and sometimes dramatic way. She was de- plant and animal life, as well as serv- voted to convincing people that the ing as a resting area for migratory wa- Pacific Northwest was one of the most terfowl. Historically there was a wealth beautiful places in the world and of data to be collected and assembled. above everything else, it should be preserved. Not unlike those who first MARGARET’S LEGACY settled here, she constantly sought new challenges and was blessed with On August 4, 1969, Margaret died in the spirit of curiosity. As a typical pio- the Olympia Manor nursing home. neer, she exhibited a spirit of enter- She had suffered from arterial sclero- prise, great boldness, creativity, and sis and diabetes for several years, al- independence in thought and action. though coronary occlusion was listed as the immediate cause of death on A lasting tribute to Margaret are the her death certificate. Margaret’s body places named in her honor. Margaret was cremated. McKenny Park is in Olympia at 3111 21st Avenue SE. It was purchased by 38

the City of Olympia in 1999 and offi- McKenny, Olympia Ward 1, Thurston, cially named on January 13, 2009.65 Washington, United States; citing enu- In 1992 the Olympia School Board meration district (ED) ED 303, sheet voted to name the newest school Mar- 7A, family 137, NARA microfilm publi- garet McKenny Elementary as a trib- cation T624 (Washington D.C.: Nation- ute to her legacy.66 It is located at al Archives and Records Administra- 3250 Morse-Merryman Road SE. The tion, 1982), roll 1672; FHL microfilm Margaret McKenny campground is lo- 1,375,685. “Washington State and cated on the banks of Waddell Creek Territorial Censuses, 1857-1892”, An- in Capitol State Forest. cestry.com. Provo, UT, 2006 (accessed November 13, 2019). Margaret marshaled an army of people and sparked public interest in envi- 4 Three other children were born to ronmentalism. This enlightened citi- Thomas and Cynthia McKenny zenry helped to keep bureaucrats on (Washington Irving McKenny, Adelaide the straight and narrow. The involve- K. McKenny and Bertha McKenny), ment often made amateur conserva- but they did not live to adulthood. tionists out of those people who least Find A Grave, database and images expected it. Author Gordon Newell (https://www.findagrave.com: ac- said, “As a little tyke, Margaret cessed November 13, 2019), memorial McKenny gave me an appreciation of page for Washington Irving McKenny the thing she felt so strongly about— (6 Jul 1866–21 Aug 1869), Find A nature. She was one of our pioneers in Grave Memorial no. 49816125, Ade- that regard, and made people believe laide K. McKenny (13 Dec 1869–13 that a clear stream and a mountain Oct 1878), Find A Grave Memorial no. meadow have greater value than al- 49816593, and Bertha “Little Birdie” most anything else.”67 McKenny (26 Jan 1873–28 Nov 1874), ______Find A Grave Memorial no. 49816053, citing Masonic Memorial Park, Tum- NOTES water, Thurston County, Washington, USA; maintained by Elaine and Bill 1 Interview with author and historian Schrock (contributor 46915548). Gordon Newell. 5 Washington State and Territorial 2 State Capital Museum press release, Censuses, 1857-1892. “United States April 10, 1985. Census, 1880,” Ancestry.com and The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day 3 "United States Census, 1910," data- Saints, Lehi, UT, 2010. Year: 1880; base with images, FamilySearch, Census Place: Olympia, Thurston, (https://familysearch.org/ Washington; Roll: 1397; Page: 114A; ark:/61903/1:1:MGVH-G8M : ac- Enumeration District: 015 cessed November 13, 2019), Margaret McKenny in household of Cynthia 6 Margaret McKenny papers, 1871- 39

40

Opposite: In this 1936 letter now in the collection of the Library of Congress, Mar- garet essentially applied for a job assisting in the planting of the Seattle Arboretum (now known as the Washington Park Arboretum). Her résumé included much practi- cal experience, as well as formal botanical and design training at the Lowthorpe School of Landscape Architecture in Groton, Massachusetts. A slightly later letter- head of Margaret’s listed her skills as garden design, garden maintenance, conser- vation, natural science, arts and decoration, and exploration. Image: Margaret McKenny, Letter to J. Frederick Dawson, January 22, 1936. From Library of Con- gress, Olmsted Associates Records, 1863-1971, MSS52571, Washington State Digi- tal Archives, http://digitalarchives.wa.gov (accessed December 10, 2019).

1969, Washington State Library MS Morning Olympian, August 5, 1969, 0252. page 1.

7 Reverend H. K. Hines, An Illustrated 14 McKenny Papers, Box 1. History of the State of Washington. Chicago: The Lewis Publishing Com- 15 Interview with Flo Brodie, Olympia pany, 1893, page 338. conservationist and past president of the Nisqually Delta Association, May 8 Gordon Newell, Rogues, Buffoons and 31, 1984. Statesmen: the Inside Story of Wash- ington’s Capital City and the Hilarious 16 Margaret McKenny, Executive Secre- History of 120 Years of State Politics. tary, City Gardens Club, “Trees in New Seattle: Hangman Press, 1975, page York City.” New York Historical Society 121. Bulletin, circa 1930s.

9 Obituary for “General McKenny.” 17 McKenny Papers, Box 11. Washington Standard, November 17, 1899, page 3. 18 “From the Tree Tops.” Unnamed and undated newspaper article, McKenny 10 Daily Gate City newspaper, Keokuk, Papers, Box 1. Iowa, November 11, 1899. 19 McKenny Papers, Box 8. 11 Margaret McKenny, Mushrooms of Field and Wood. Rahway, New Jersey: 20 “From the Tree Tops.” Quinn and Boden Company, 1929. 21 McKenny Papers, Box 1. 12 Interview with Margaret “Maggie” Raymond (born 1887), Roolan Health 22 McKenny Papers, Box 7. Care Center, Olympia, May 11, 1984. 23 Interview and documents from Jul- 13 “Death Claims Miss McKenny.” The ius Peterson, Olympia conservationist 41

and Audubon Society member, Olym- Letter.” The Daily Olympian, July 10, pia, April and May, 1984. 1955, page 16.

24 The author attributes this to Leo 35 “Timber Sale Foes Lose Test in Gallagher. Court: Suit Rejected in Watershed Plan Dispute.” The Daily Olympian, 25 “City Watershed Area Studied: Fish July 13, 1955, page 1. Plant Pondered; Park Plan Is Doubt- ed.” The Daily Olympian, April 29, 36 “Supreme Court Gets Watershed 1955, page 1. Fight: City’s Timber Plan Halted Until After Hearing on July 29.” The Daily 26 Letter to the editor from Miss Mar- Olympian, July 15, 1955, page 1. garet McKenny, The Daily Olympian, April 12, 1955, page 5. 37 McKenny Papers, Box 7; Olympia Municipal Ordinance 3.24.010-.040. 27 Letter to the editor from Miss Mar- (https://www.codepublishing.com/ garet McKenny, The Daily Olympian, WA/Olympia/) (accessed November April 12, 1955, page 5. 13, 2019); “Manager, Park, Watershed Vote Set.” The Daily Olympian, Octo- 28 “Hearing Asked On Watershed.” The ber 26, 1955, page 1; “Vote Prospect Daily Olympian, April 26, 1955, page Ends Court Hearing Plan in Water- 1. shed Case.” The Daily Olympian, De- cember 4, 1955, page 1. 29 “Judge Orders City to Halt Timber Sales.” The Daily Olympian, July 5, 38 Resolution No. 3392, Minutes of the 1955, page 1. meeting of the Board of Thurston County Commissioners, December 13, 30 “Watershed Log Job Showdown Plan 1965; “Margaret McKenny Day.” The Set as Bid Date Nears.” The Daily Daily Olympian, December 14, 1965, Olympian, July 1, 1955, page 1. page 1.

31 “Petition Notice.” The Daily Olympi- 39 “State Capitol Problems Get City At- an, July 3, 1955, page 10. tention.” The Daily Olympian, January 30, 1957, page 1; “New Trees Planned 32 “Judge Orders City to Halt Timber Along Capitol Way.” The Daily Olympi- Sales.” The Daily Olympian, July 5, an, March 13, 1957, page 1. 1955, page 1. 40 Article by Margaret McKenny, Janu- 33 “Judge Orders City to Halt Timber ary 17, 1957, McKenny Papers, Box Sales.” 13.

34 Phil Rensvold, Chairman, Citizens 41 “Olympians Plan Church Corner- for the Future, Olympia, “Watershed stone Rite, Start Tree Planting Pro- 42

ject.” The Sunday Olympian, March Washington, May 5, 1984. 31, 1957, page 1. 49 Interview with Mike Contris. 42 A revised and enlarged edition of the book called The New Savory Mushroom 50 Interview with Mike Contris. was published in 1987. 51 Interview with Charles Roe, Olym- 43 For example, it is listed as the first pia, March 27, 2019. book in the recommended reading list of the Pacific Northwest Mycological 52 Untitled poem, McKenny Papers, Society, (http://www.psms.org/ Box 9. reading.php) (accessed November 14, 2019). 53 “Park Garage Plan Provides Lively Debate.” The Daily Olympian, May 11, 44 “Recipients of the Award for Contri- 1955, page 1. butions to Amateur Mycology,” North American Mycological Association 54 “Vote Tally” and “Trio Selected for w e bs i t e ( https://namyco.org/ Olympia Jobs June 4.” The Daily awards.php#amateur-r) (accessed No- Olympian, March 14, 1956, page 1. vember 14, 2019). 55 “Park Plan Airing Shows Need for 45 The excursion is detailed in the sto- Priority List.” The Daily Olympian, Au- ry “Infinitely More,” by Margaret gust 9, 1963, page 1. McKenny. Their friendship is corrobo- rated in Helen Keller’s correspondence 56 “Recreation Commission Asks Cha- from Jackson Webster, notifying Helen let Renovation.” The Daily Olympian, of friend Margaret McKenny’s automo- November 6, 1963, page 1. bile accident, December 18, 1962, American Foundation for the Blind, 57 Hearing minutes, Olympia Parks Helen Keller Archives, Box 154, Gen- and Recreation Commission, August eral Public Correspondence 1962 So- 8, 1963. Z. 58 “Nisqually Delta: Nature’s Miracle of 46 Interview with Robert Dunn, Olym- Earlier Age.” Tacoma News Tribune, pia, Washington, June 18, 2019. February 25, 1979, page 49.

47 Interview with Kaye Sandahl, legis- 59 Flo Brodie and Del McBride, lative assistant to Washington State “Nisqually Chronology of Historical Senator Bill Fuller, Olympia, Washing- Events.” Nisqually Delta Association, ton, April 27, 1984. March 21, 1978.

48 Interview with Mike Contris, writer 60 Brodie and McBride, “Nisqually for The Daily Olympian, Olympia, 43

Chronology of Historical Events.” park.aspx ) (accessed November 14, 2019). 61 “The Nisqually Plan.” Tacoma News Tribune, July 16, 1972, page 70. 66 “Olympia: Elementary Named after Conservationist.” The Daily Olympian, 62 “It’s Full Steam Ahead as Nisqually November 30, 1992, page 13. Port Plan Hits Its First Reef.” The Daily Olympian, August 26, 1965, page 1. 67 Interview with author and historian Gordon Newell. 63 Mike Contris, “She’s a Staunch ______Nisqually Ally.” “The Crucible” col- umn, The Daily Olympian, October 6, Sally Turnbull is retired from public ser- 1965, page 4. vice with the State of Washington. In 1984, she started research on Marga- 64 Edward A Whitesell, ed., Defending ret McKenny while studying American Wild Washington: A Citizen’s Action and Pacific Northwest history at The Guide. Seattle: The Mountaineers Evergreen State College. In 1985, she Books, 2004, page 314. hosted a public reception at the State Capital Museum honoring McKenny’s 65 “Margaret McKenny Park,” City of 100th birthday. Sally enjoys tasting Olympia website ( h t t p : / / craft beers of the Pacific Northwest. olympiawa.gov/city-services/parks/ ______parks-and-trails/margaret-mckenny-

A 2011 panoramic view of the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge (now known as the Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge). The iconic twin barns are visible at the left. Margaret McKenny helped save this site from industrial develop- ment. Photo by Joe Mabel; courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. 44 WHO/WHAT/WHERE IS IT?

This object is a printing press made by particular press has had a remarkable Adam Ramage of Philadelphia. The history. It was used in Mexica [sic] for press was used to print Olympia’s very the printing of pronuncimientos until first newspaper, The Columbian. Its first 1834, when it was moved to Monterey, issue appeared on September 11, 1852, California, for a similar service. In 1846, when Washington was still officially part it was moved to San Francisco, where of Oregon Territory. the Star and, later, the Alta California were printed on it. When Thomas J. The Columbian was established as a Dryer established the Portland Orego- weekly paper by Thornton F. McElroy nian, this same old press printed the (pictured on back cover) and James W. first issue on December 4, 1850. After Wiley; they published the paper every serving the Columbian, it printed the Saturday at “$5 per year by mail or tak- first paper in Seattle and pioneered in en at the office.” other towns.”

In 1922, noted historian Edmond S. Photo of Thornton F. McElroy, who co- Meany wrote an article titled founded The Columbian with James W. “Newspapers of Washington Territory,” Wiley. Photo AR-07809001-ph004349; in The Washington Historical Quarterly, courtesy of State Library Photograph Col- Volume 13, Number 3. Meany detailed lection, 1851-1990, Washington State the history of the Ramage press: Archives, Digital Archives (accessed De- cember 12, 2019). “The equipment for the paper was brought from Portland in the schooner Photo of the Ramage press, photo AR- Mary Taylor in the summer of 1852. The 07809001-ph004571, taken circa 1935 press was an old Ramage, so called be- by the Works Progress Commission; cour- cause it was constructed by Adam tesy of State Library Photograph Collec- Ramage, who went to Philadelphia in tion, 1851-1990, Washington State Ar- 1790 and is believed to have been the chives, Digital Archives (accessed Decem- first builder of presses in America. This ber 12, 2019).

The nameplate, or masthead, of the first issue of The Columbian newspaper, issued September 11, 1852, by Thornton F. McElroy and James W. Wiley. WHO/WHAT/WHERE IS IT?

A ROTATING FEATURE SHOWCASING ARTIFACTS FROM THURSTON COUNTY HERITAGE GROUPS

What is this contraption? In the early 1850s, it resided in Olympia, but is now en- sconced at Seattle’s Museum of History and Industry. See inside back cover for more information on the object and the man (inset) associated with it.