Summer 2001 The Y R C Bulletin Issue 15

Rambler

Photos by John Whalley with detail from expedition sweaters and Harvey Lomas

Guangxi Caves 2000 Expedition ...... Ged Campion 3 One Cave on Palawan ...... John Middleton 67 Three Caves in Laos ...... John Middleton 68 The Bradford Caving Community a Century Ago ..... S A Craven 71 Fantan B ...... Adrian Bridge 76 Gondogoro La, Karakoram ...... Martyn Wakeman 78 Cycling with the Tour de France ...... Dennis Armstrong 94 In Praise of Sterland’s Seat ...... John Sterland 98 How it Really Used to Be! Number Three ...... Has Been 99 Eccentricity and Munros ...... Jeff Hooper 100 Reviews ...... 102 Club Proceedings ...... David Smith 106 Chippings ...... 108 Meet Reports: ...... 112

Foreword

Rather later than normal, with apologies for the delay from the editor, comes this issue of the Yorkshire Rambler. Pride of place goes to the highly successful and widely acclaimed Club caving trip to China. For this detailed report we are indebted to the team’s hard work in processing and writing up their data on top of their fieldwork. Walking, climbing and caving on British hills have, over recent months, been brought practically to a halt by the precautions against the spread of Foot and Mouth Disease. Several meets have had to be cancelled. Thankfully, as this goes to press, footpaths, crags and caves in our home ground of the Dales are now being re-opened. The Club’s creativity came to the fore once again in dealing with the situation and some novel meet reports await your perusal.

Albert Chapman, President

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©2001 Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club

Secretary - Gordon Humphreys, 3 Mountbegon, Hornby, Lancashire LA2 8JZ

Editor - Michael Smith, 80 Towngate Road, Worrall, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S35 0AR [email protected] Copy for next issue by September 2001.

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the YRC nor its Officers

The YRC Bulletin 1 Summer 2001

Contents The YRC Guangxi Caves 2000 Expedition ...... Ged Campion ...... 3 One Cave on Palawan ...... John Middleton .... 67 Three Caves in Laos ...... John Middleton .... 68 The Bradford Caving Community a Century Ago ...... S A Craven .... 71 Fantan B ...... Adrian Bridge .... 76 Gondogoro La, Karakoram ...... Martyn Wakeman .... 78 Cycling with the Tour de France ...... Dennis Armstrong .... 94 In Praise of Sterland’s Seat ...... John Sterland .... 98 How it Really Used to Be! Number Three ...... Has Been .... 99 Eccentricity and Munros ...... Jeff Hooper .. 100 Review: Tom Price’s Travail So Gladly Spent .... Dennis Armstrong .. 102 Journal Reviews ...... Bill Todd .. 105 Club Proceedings...... F. David Smith .. 106 Chippings ...... 108 Meet Reports: Glen Etive ...... March 2000 .. 112 North Pennines, Alston ...... October .. 113 87th Annual Dinner, Kirby Lonsdale ...... November .. 115 Lowstern, Christmas ...... December .. 118 The Old Hill Inn ...... January 2001 .. 119 Low Hall Garth ...... February .. 121 North Wales, Tan – Y – Wyddfa ...... February .. 123 Lowstern ...... May .. 124 The Very Long Bike Ride ...... June .. 125

The YRC Bulletin 2 Summer 2001

The YRC Guangxi Caves 2000 Expedition

Contents of the expedition report collated by Ged Campion:

Lingyun Area, Glossary ...... 6 Cave Fauna ...... 44 Xiashuidong ...... 7 Person-Hours in the Field ...... 45 Xiashuidong Work ...... 11 Outline report of surveys ...... 48 Shadong ...... 16 Chinese culture ...... 54 Pengjiawan ...... 19 Photography report ...... 56 Shendong ...... 20 Evidence of cave occupation . 63 Jonglidong ...... 24 Acknowledgements ...... 66 Xianongyan ...... 25 Surveys: Yanliudong ...... 26 Xia Shiu Dong ...... 10 Conclusions from Lingyun ...... 29 Shadong ...... 14-15 Exploration in Leye County ...... 29 Dashiwei Doline ...... 31, 33 West Cave and Smoking Cave ..... 34 Xiongjia Dong Dong ...... 36 Xionajiadong, East Cave ...... 37 Lao Mei...... 51 Fong Yen ...... 39 Nupin Dong 2, Buffalo Cave 2 .. 52 Further potential in Leye County .. 43 Nupin Dong 1, Buffalo Cave 1 .. 66

The expedition to Guangxi was extremely successful having discovered and surveyed seventeen kilometres of cave in just three weeks. The caves were comprehensively photographed and a film was made by the Chinese for television. Our biologist discovered many new species of cave life and a wider chemistry project was completed on Shadong. In all the team undertook over 1,000 hours of work. Vital new contacts were made in China that will provide a platform for further expeditions. The next expedition planned for this area is scheduled for April 2002. The international caving world is interested in our work in China and we have been invited to speak at the Ninth International Congress of Speleology to be held in Brasilia.

The YRC Bulletin 3 Summer 2001

Cone Karst on the Li River Photo: John Whalley Why China? Expedition Members The karst of China, over a million Ged Campion, Expedition Leader square kilometres, covers around an John Riley, Deputy Leader eighth of the country’s landmass. Spectacular dolines, karst towers, and Alan Fletcher canyons dwarf similar features Bruce Bensley, Photography elsewhere in the world. Graham Salmon, Survey Chinese Universities and British Arthur Salmon, Water Chemistry cavers have worked jointly for nearly twenty years under the title ‘China Alister Renton, Electronics Cave Projects’. John Whalley, Photography Andy Eavis, doyen of Chinese cave Stewart Muir exploration, has fostered strong links Harvey Lomas with various Chinese institutions, advancing the science of speleology Shaun Penny both in and outside China. Andy was Tony Penny the principal guest at the YRC’s Mike Pitt annual dinner two years ago and he helped the club select a suitable area Bill Hawkins to explore, which would normally be Pascale Bottazzi off-limits to travellers in China. With Arthur Clarke, Cave Biology his knowledge and contacts we were fortunate to secure the necessary Chinese Members permission from the authorities. Professor Zhu Xue Wen Guangxi province probably has the Mr Cai Wutian greatest potential for new cave Mr Han development in South East Asia. Indeed much of the exploration in the Cheiry Echo-Savager (Xue Huaw) region is still in its infancy. Mr Chen Lixin

The YRC Bulletin 4 Summer 2001

In Xanadu did Kubla Khan A stately pleasure-dome decree: Where Alph, the sacred river, ran Through caverns measureless to man Down to a sunless sea. So twice five miles of fertile ground With walls and towers were girdled round: And here were gardens bright with sinuous rills, Where blossomed many an incense-bearing tree; And here were forests ancient as the hills, Enfolding sunny spots of greenery.

But Oh! That deep romantic chasm which slanted Down the green hill athwart a cedarn cover! A savage place! I had been in negotiation with Andy Eavis for almost twelve months and he had identified an area in Guangxi that would provide the basis for an expedition and an additional area further north where reconnaissance work for further China Cave Projects Expeditions could take place. Andy and Kevin Senior had visited Lingyun

over a four-day period in 1999, and had identified a number of sites that Anyone, who has visited Guangxi in required a more thorough approach. China and is familiar with the work of So it was that the YRC assembled its Samuel Taylor Coleridge, would find best cavers, some even returning from it difficult not to draw parallels with retirement and, ever mindful of the the rich imagery of Kubla Khan and Club’s strong patriarchal traditions the evocative scenery that abounds in accompanied by a slight lack of this incredible province. Though caving manpower, recruited a female Coleridge travelled extensively in his French caver from the Savoie region. age, even to the glaciers of Mont When all the necessary formalities Blanc, he never visited China, but if were near completion, including the he had done, I have no doubt that he all-important permission from the would have realised the dream of Ministry of Land and Resources in Kubla Khan. China, which only arrived in the nick During the dark days of Ian of time, visas were collected from Crowther’s presidency, it was felt, Manchester and flight arrangements especially by the President, that the were confirmed. YRC should mark the Millennium Year with a suitably impressive expedition to an exotic far off place with promise of caverns measureless to man. Where better for that than southern China?

The YRC Bulletin 5 Summer 2001

With a foothold in China, we left Glossary of Terms behind the smog and skyscrapers of Shanghai to be captivated by the Doline - Large crater in sedimentary rock with or without an outlet at bottom beauty of the tall karst towers and Dong - cave gentle mists of the Guillin Low Fossil cave - an old, now inactive cave Lands. This much-eulogised scenery system cannot fail to impress even the most He - river seasoned traveller. Just a few Hua - leaf kilometres outside the bustling city of Japara – proofed raincoat jacket (Aus) Guillin, a trip down the Li River gives Karst - Limestone area a wonderful opportunity to feast one’s Lian - lotus eyes on cone karst of an incredible Lianhua - Lotus-plant scale and abundance. Liu - flow Long - dragon Niu - buffalo Sha - sand Shang - upper Shen - deep Shui - water Suidao - tunnel Tao - peach Wan - that specific locality

Uvala – joined dolines Our centre of operations for the first Xia - lower few days was to be the Karst Institute Y hang - belay using bowline (or eight) on in Guillin. The expedition quickly the bight knot began to build up momentum. The Yan - rock China Caves Project store at the Yuan - source Institute provides a veritable Aladdin’s cave of equipment, which area in the dry season. Our we eagerly bagged and packed in accommodation was not the preparation for our journey north. Government rest house as we had Our host, mentor and cuddly uncle, originally planned, but a hotel, which Professor Zhu, was finalising all the by our standard was luxurious; never formalities needed for us to meet before had we had such a comfortable dignitaries and officials in the base camp. Lingyun and Leye Counties. Protocol Exploration in Lingyun Area and preparation in China are vital for any expedition to be successful. It Lingyun is a lovely promenade style was decided that we would travel via town along the side of the Chengbi Nanning, the Provincial Capital on River, the water of which was to public bus and meet the Lingyun provide us with the source of our County Officials in the City and they exploration for the next three weeks. would escort us north. It took About 2km north of the town the river approximately twelve hours to get to is fed by a major tributory, the Shiyui Lingyun with a few obligatory stops River, which emerges in spectacular for food and water. We arrived on a fashion from a show cave a short rainy evening, not really what we had distance from the confluence, having expected, since we were visiting the sunk some 16 km further north. The objective of our work was to try and

The YRC Bulletin 6 Summer 2001 locate the Shiyui River between the known to each other, mainly as close sink and the resurgence. From friends. It was I think because of this Lingyun the Chengbi River flows special chemistry that we were able to south and intermittently sinks and accomplish a lot, and really just enjoy rises until it is finally harnessed by a it as a holiday; it also helped in that hydro-electricity project in Xiagia. there were no prima donnas. Anyone At first we directed our attention to who would dare to poke their head two main features, Xiashuidong and above the parapet in such a way Shadong, which seemed to give some would have been setting themselves promise of locating the elusive river. up to be ridiculed. Xiashuidong was explored over a two Our first day in the caving region was week period and a considerable akin to a field trip; we were all piled amount of sizeable passage was into a bus and driven around the area found, but the active river could only to be shown the potential sites. It be heard and not reached. poured with rain all day. I made a mental note that the rivers were swollen, but that didn’t seem to Xiashuidong Shaun Penny matter as there were loads of dry This was my first visit to China, and fossil cave possibilities to go at. wow what a place, on this short but memorable trip I’ve fallen head over That same evening, Ged posted the heels in love with it. Caving in China teams on the wall, together with the is very much more than just the areas we had to cover the next day. exploration of endless virgin passage; We, each in our separate groups, it’s as much about its culture, the prepared noisily both our personal and unbelievable scenery and the group equipment. I thought privately, incredible warmth of its people, I’m it was going to be a complete hooked. washout. Our selected area was the wettest site shown to us that day, with Ged had spent a great deal of time and one of the biggest rivers in the district effort assembling our little group flowing, no rushing, into a limestone together. We were for the most part cliff, with surely no chance of us finding a way through. At my most optimistic, I couldn’t conceive of anything other than death by drowning. None of the others seemed unduly worried so like a true martyr I kept it to myself, had a few beers and slept soundly that night. Next morning the rain continued, not at all like the showers of yester-

The YRC Bulletin 7 Summer 2001 day, but literally bouncing off the roof muddy track that would become so of the minibus. We were forced to a familiar to us all. halt; locals were working hard to clear Our little group of four, Stewart, Jon, a mud landslide that almost closed the Pascale and I, soon became the centre road ahead. When we finally arrived of attention. We had to pass through at our drop off point, none of us was two small villages; this must have keen to venture out into the rain. We brought the whole population out, a waited and waited. Eventually after good many of whom followed us an hour had passed, we decided it was down the track. I felt a little like the now or never and started out along the

The YRC Bulletin 8 Summer 2001 pied piper; our little troop was now rifting section of passage, which we thirty or forty strong, all curious to followed over the top of some quite know what we were doing and where considerable drops (not investigated), on earth we were going? I’ve always to the head of a 15m pitch. Once at been keen to keep a low profile when the bottom, the cave then opened out approaching caves; things often go once more and was, perhaps, 20m wrong and no embarrassment can then high by 20m wide with the virgin mud be felt. No chance on this occasion, it floor sloping away into the distance. was a circus and I found myself Setting off down that muddy bank felt playing to the crowd. The whole truly wonderful, our first Chinese atmosphere was surreal and exciting. cave, and we were the first ever in it. Some, once they knew we were looking for caves, were eager to show us their entrances. No, that’s not quite true, they were all keen to show us. We were directed to a place in the river where it was safe to cross. It was fully 4ft deep that first day and the current was strong. Once across, the crowd shot up the steep bank. We struggled to keep our footing, that didn’t seem to matter to our new Shaun starts Xiashuidong’s entrance pitch friends, we were almost revered by only to be followed by the local children them and I was certainly grateful. The going hand over hand down the rope entrance they were showing us was well above the water, completely in It wasn’t long before we were stopped the dry. It was better than that, it was again by another pitch. We contrived a pitch; they had not been in there and to rig this one on natural belays. Bad couldn’t follow down a rope. choice, I had only got down 4m when the walls, which resembled We changed in full view of the crowd; pebbledash, started to drop apart and they weren’t going to miss a thing. crash down into the void below. Not All giggles and chatter, children to be fazed, a natural thread was jumping from rock to rock, natural found and Jon performed the most athletes all of them. They looked on incredible acrobatics, worthy of a in awe, amazed at our colourful perfect ten and gold medal had it been equipment. Jon rigged the entrance marked in the Olympic games, to get pitch for me to descend. Seven to the bottom. Unfortunately, no way metres down and the pitch became a on was found so we decided to call it sloping dusty mud bank. I followed it a day and surveyed out. At least we to a natural stalactite belay where we still had plenty of side passages to each dumped our rucksacks. This was explore. the one and only time we took them into the caves as you could leave Next day saw us back again with our anything and it would still be there friendly local escorts leading us across when you got back, unlike home. The the fields to the entrance once more. others joined me; Stewart taking the We quickly descended to the first of lead now took off down the short our chosen sites. Frustratingly, after a slope, which once more became pitch and a winding crawl, this joined vertical. We were now in a smaller into the next side passage lower down

The YRC Bulletin 9 Summer 2001

The YRC Bulletin 10 Summer 2001 the cave. Our attentions now focused further. So that too is still there on that next way that was to lead us to waiting for someone foolhardy explore a further blind pot. Soon enough to tackle the pitch that after, a traverse was found to the head requires a full armoured suit, and of another pitch. This was to turn out maybe some 600mm bolt anchors. to be the key to the way on. Our time was up on this cave. Maybe Moving around the sump pool at the at some future time I’ll get a chance to bottom and up through a squeeze took go back, but with so much to go at, us into the big stuff; massive mud and so little time, I think someone covered passages whose floors sloped else will have to finish what we away steeply. We were all caught up started. in the excitement of the moment. For the remainder of the day it was difficult to stay disciplined and actually set about taking the survey data. Now we really did have something to go at.

Xiashuidong Work Pascale Bottazzi Jeudi 5 octobre: départ 9h30, quatre équipes se répartissent le long du parcours. Le groupe dont je fais partie est composé de Jonathan, Stewart et Shaun. Nous traversons la rivière pour atteindre un porche en hauteur, repérable par ses très vieilles stalactites et des blocs de rochers. On équipe le long pan incliné d’entrée avec une main courante, puis un petit puits nous amène dans un volume incliné au sol de terre humide parsemé de rochers.

The amazement of finding a new passage Nous arrivons sur une conduite forcée, le premiers puits à gauche est It doesn’t take long to reach your descendu sans succès, la suite, à furthest point in the cave when you droite, aux parois couvertes de belles get used to it. We could hear the roar cupules, nécessite plus de cordes. On of water that must be the main peut soupçonner une étendue d’eau à collector, but were unable to find a sa base. way down to it. We did, however, find a couple of siphons and short Deux passages ont été repérés, un pitches, but never the source of that criquet dépigmenté est remonté en noise. In another direction we found a surface. On lève la topo en sortant. On pitch that we estimate was close to déséquipe la corde d’entrée, bien qu’il 200m deep, but after about 80m it soit clair que les enfants ne s’en was too unstable for us to descend any encombrent pas pour descendre.

The YRC Bulletin 11 Summer 2001

Dehors, Jon a sympathisé avec la un bruit de rivière! Je ramasse troupe d’enfants, ce sont eux qui ont quelques échantillons de roches, on ressorti nos sacs; et de grands éclats ressort à 16h15.Sherry nous attend de rire accompagnent les remontées devant l’entrée. Après un pointage au successives. En repartant, nous GPS, nous reprenons le sentier en empruntons un gué et lavons notre évitant les bouquets de haricots lancés équipement passablement boueux. auparavant depuis le haut du plateau. Nous sommes restés 5h30 sous terre, Lavage du matos dans la rivière qui a nous reprenons le bus à 18h30. bien baissé, arrivée au bus à 17h15. Repas à 20h, chacun est content de sa Nous fêtons l’anniversaire de Mike journée. Quelques ennuis de santé: dans la salle de danse, puis nous sinusite ou gastro, sans plus. allons à la rencontre d’une délégation Vendredi 6 octobre: Lever à 6h. Après touristique officielle qui achève sa le déjeuner à 7h30, nous embarquons réunion. Installés en bord de rivière, dans un plus grand bus. Shrerry nous dans une ruelle piétonne, nous dégustons toutes sortes de brochettes accompagne, en vue de traductions; nous entrons dans la grotte à 10h30, plus ou moins classiques: (serpents, quelques pétards annoncent la fête du oiseaux, pattes de volailles…) village. Jon emprunte le 1er passage à Minuit à l’hôtel, pointages GPS et droite et équipe un bout de corde… topos. L’équipe télé dont fait partie le pour retomber rapidement sur la petite mari de Sherry, est disposée à filmer arrivée avant notre objectif; il s’agit la “grande salle”. d’un passage parallèle, visiblement Samedi 7 octobre: Le temps se connu des Chinois (traces). Dans la stabilise au beau. Départ 9h30. petite galerie de jonction coule un Professeur Zhu, Jed et Stewart visitent filet d’eau dont le débit a bien la cavité en bordure de chemin, en diminué. Le puits de la veille est rive ouest. De notre côté, nous descendu par Shaun, à sa base une descendons à trois, suivis de près par petite laisse d’eau semble un jeune homme particulièrement correspondre à un siphon suspendu ou motivé, (peut-être le fils du chef du temporaire. Néanmoins, la suite est village), jusqu’au tout début du 1er juste à côté, dans une conduite forcée passage réellement technique… Il remontante, tapissée de galets de remonte seul, une sandale en moins et toutes sortes. Les cupules semblent pratiquement sans lumière; sa attester que lorsque la laisse d’eau se prouesse est impressionnante. On met en charge, l’arrivée de la crue emprunte un passage bas, on descend peut se fait violemment, bloquant le le puits et on enchaîne jusqu’à un passage. Courbés, nous remontons ce terminus (provisoire?); un courant boyau pour déboucher dans un espace d’air s’infiltre dans sorte de diaclase plus large et plus haut, le sol est étroite; arrêt sur niveau d’eau élevé, boueux mais peu glissant, jolie galerie j’utilise le marteau afin de laisser un parfois encombré de blocs. Nous repère. La zone est propre, et le haut arrivons ensuite à un toboggan de la galerie garde une jolie forme nécessitant une corde, et un volume d’œuf. On capture une grenouille et de belles dimensions. Stewart et moi un insecte volant avant de remonter. levons la topo pendant que Jon et On topographie, on lève les cordes et Shaun reconnaissent et équipent la on se retrouve dans le grand volume suite…qui les amène sur un puits et certainement filmé peu avant, au pied

The YRC Bulletin 12 Summer 2001 d’une longue pente argileuse. Un autres ont basculé avec les blocs et rapide casse-croûte, et on grimpe le ont subi une nouvelle phase de pan incliné. Derrière, on débouche calcification. dans une très grande salle parsemée De son côté, Jon fait de son mieux de gros blocs, des concrétions sont pour trouver comment équiper sous et visibles en hauteur. Sur la droite entre des blocs gros comme des s’ouvre un puits estimé à plus de camions… sa situation est acrobatique 100m de profondeur… On laisse les et plutôt limite côté sécurité, d’autant cordes en se promettant de revenir. plus que les parois, en se resserrant, Sortie vers 17h, nettoyage du matos sont recouvertes par une couche de avec l’aide des enfants hilares, sous la glaise de plus en plus importante. Il directive amusée de Shaun. Ils se annonce qu’il estime le puits à près de précipitent même pour porter nos 200m de profondeur…Il en a charges le long des rizières à sec; on parcouru une bonne trentaine mais dirait des sacs à pattes… Les préfère renoncer: “ mieux vaut une villageois sont réunis au cœur du souris vivante qu’un lion mort “ village, et on s’échange des bonjour déclare -t- il avec philosophie… On dans une ambiance très détendue. revient en tirant la topo avec Shaun et Nouveau banquet, en présence d’un on collecte même quelques directeur touristique… Professeur Zhu échantillons de faune dans l’eau du “ reconnaît que l’un des objectifs que siphon “ dont le niveau se trouve plus l’on attend de nous est bel et bien de bas. On est dehors à 17h, on nettoie le trouver une grotte susceptible d’être matos, on est au bord de la route une aménagée. Quelques reports topo avec heure après. survex sur les portables. On fête à l’hôtel les 35 ans de Dimanche 8 octobre: On a décliné Graham. l’offre d’un jour de repos et on se rend Jeudi 12 octobre: Dernière visite à sur le terrain bien qu’il soit déjà Xiashuidong avec Jon et Allan. On 10h30. Les enfants nous interpellent prend un itinéraire plus discret en depuis le porche. Un cameraman longeant la rivière. Nous allons filme nos derniers préparatifs. Midi, directement à la salle du grand on commence à descendre. Arrivés à puits/faille pour fouiller le fond et le la salle, on réalise que les visées côté droit du volume. Il y a sensées permettre le raccord sont effectivement une galerie fossile restées dans le haut de mon sac à dos. (redonnant en lucarne à l’aplomb du Bon, pas grave, on grimpe la colline début de la salle), et dont l’autre de boue sans trop glisser et on arrive extrémité permet un regard sur ce qui dans la salle où l’on s’aperçoit que les est vraisemblablement le même puits. feuilles topo se trouvent dans les kits L’accès est boueux et quelques prises laissés au début de la dune; zut ! sont taillées dans la glaise à coup de Bon, Jon commence à installer les descendeur, mais nous n’avons pas de spits au perfo pendant que j’explore la quoi se faire une idée plus précise. On partie gauche de la salle passant de revient sur nos pas en déséquipant et blocs en coulées ; c’est raide et je suis en prenant quelques photos et près de 25m plus haut. Je scrute sans bestioles. Surprise dans la dernière trouver d’ouverture. Par contre, verticale avant la main courante: un j’observe de très vieilles stalagmites serpent lové se trouve en mauvaise en place contre les parois, toutes les posture, on le laisse à son sort, et on

The YRC Bulletin 13 Summer 2001

The YRC Bulletin 14 Summer 2001

The YRC Bulletin 15 Summer 2001 parvient à signaler sa présence aux the right-hand mud banks and deux jeunes gens que l’on rencontre à descending to the sloping floor of the l’extérieur. Dernier pointage GPS chamber beyond. Temps passé sous terre: trois heures. Dropping down to the left here brings Le vent a tourné et l’air devient plus one to the main river, which over frais alors qu’on lave le matos. Les several visits was shown to rise and paysans achèvent les brûlis des fall with great alacrity, with at one dernières parcelles. time the level rising some 10-15m overnight. The river can be followed Retour à l’hôtel à 18h, quelques up and down stream, for a short envois email. distance, but in both instances sumps are reached. The second major feature to be explored simultaneously with Heading away from the river and up Xiashuidong was Shadong, an the chamber’s slopes will bring you to impressive cave entrance cutting the “upper level main chamber” from away massively beneath the road which point there is a choice of three north of Lingyun. ways on, the least obvious route being to the left over the top of a small mud bank. Here a steeply descending Shadong Alan Fletcher passage leads down via a mud ramp to The system of Shadong (Sand Cave) a rock-floored right-hand bend where is one of the most easily accessible of can be found a narrowing solution- the caves undertaken during the slot that drops down, possibly to expedition. The entrance, which lies stream level, and directly in the corner at the head of a valley, is some 15-20 is a possible aven. minutes walk from the road, firstly via Continuing over some boulders and a path then a dry streambed (the down the passage, one comes to a valley carries water at times of heavy calcite flow that must be climbed with rainfall). care. The main stream is then The entrance is truly memorable, it encountered again. However, it soon being a large porch estimated to be flows under a rock screen, which can some 25-30m in height and 20-25m in be bypassed to the right by a passage width. It certainly gives anyone containing some shingle-filled descending for the first time an solution-holes. Beyond the bypass, inkling of the sheer size of the cave the stream re-emerges very powerfully beyond (Shadong was the most and then flows over a series of extensive system we found during our cascades before again forming a sump explorations). that prevents further exploration in this direction. The initial passage leads off and opens up into a sizeable chamber with If, back in the upper level main huge mud banks to the right, chamber, one chooses to move stretching to the roof. Following the directly ahead, a passage begins to left-hand wall will eventually bring descend and after progress is made you to a pitch, over which any down a boulder-strewn slope another entrance stream would flow down to sump is reached. Just before reaching the cave’s main river. This pitch can this point, however, a way on to the easily be bypassed by climbing over left can be observed.

The YRC Bulletin 16 Summer 2001

A rising passage can be followed by access is soon gained to a chamber means of some very tricky clambering with ways on to the left and right. over mud, flowstone and loose debris. Moving to the left here, the chamber This eventually opens up, levels out (which hereafter for want of a better and soon begins to descend sharply. name is referred to as “Junction Due to lack of time and rope (the Chamber”) descends to the slope being steep enough to justify the continuation of the inlet. This can be placing of bolts), we were only able to followed upstream for around 160m make limited progress downwards until progress is halted due to the before turning back. appearance of a sump pool. The third and final way on is to the One point of interest is that, just prior right, in a westerly direction, and to the sump, a dry section of passage leads by way of a mud-set, cobble- on the right (not shown on the survey) floored passage and some gour pools can be followed for a few metres until into a much more aqueous section of a 5m high wall is reached with what cave. looks promisingly like a further way A large inlet passage soon appears on over the top. Once climbed (care and this can be followed downstream must be taken as the rock, as in the for around 280m until a pitch is downstream pitch, is of very poor reached, from the top of which the quality and flakes away in the hand), sound of the main stream can be heard however, the expected way on does below. Attempts to descend this pitch not materialise and the passage comes were to prove fruitless, as the rock is to a disappointingly sudden end. of such a poor nature that the use of Back in Junction Chamber, if you bolts merely shatters it. Around five move to the right, i.e. to the north, a or six placements were tried in small climb down is found which various locations, without success, leads to a lower section of the before the task was abandoned. chamber where one is again faced Following the inlet upstream is a very with the option of heading to the left different story and yields more or to the right. To the right a passage positive results. The way on is easy gradually swings around becoming going walking, both in shallow water increasingly lower in height until a and on the muddy embankments, until horizontal slot (“Bill‟s Bypass”) of a breakdown area is reached where around ½m in height is reached, the passage appears to be obstructed through which the sound of flowing by fallen blocks with the stream water can be heard. Crawling through issuing forth from their base. here, through an initially unobserved With a little investigation, however, a slot, brings one back into the inlet, in way on over the top can be found to a the pre- breakdown area, and so point where there is a deep pool. A provides an easier method of access to short traverse on the left-hand wall the areas beyond. leads down to a large broken If instead one advances to the left you stalactite, which bridges the pool, and will find yourself climbing a mud crossing this leads to a further slope at the top of which one looks blockage with a way on visible over out into the void of an enormous the top. Although a little awkward to chamber. On entering, descent is climb over due to its greasy nature, made to the chamber‟s fine mud floor,

The YRC Bulletin 17 Summer 2001 where several comments were passed Millennium Dome after London‟s regarding the fact that it appeared, to a centenary fiasco. large extent, to be perfectly flat. With A perimeter survey was carried out this in mind and coupled with the and formations were found to be perceived shape of the roof sparse. Those found were mainly (estimated at 40m in height), the lying hidden away in the chamber‟s chamber was soon dubbed the recesses. Of more interest was the

Pengjiawan‟s massive formations dwarf the human figures in these scenes

The YRC Bulletin 18 Summer 2001 discovery of two minor passages was the noise of water in the leading off, though these ultimately distance... led nowhere. The longer of the two A number of other caves were especially held some interest due to its explored in the Lingyun area, very floor initially having a very distinctive notable of which was Pengjiawan. appearance resulting from a mesh of Arthur Salmon described some of the comparatively large cracks. Also work carried out there discovered at this point were signs of previous visitation, by presumably some of the local populous, i.e. Pengjiawan Arthur Salmon footprints both barefooted and sandled. UTM: 48 664567 2704236 Altitude: 708m Length: 1712m Although one of the most, some would say the most, impressive The cave is situated east of the „New spectacle in Shadong, the Millennium Road‟ close to the village of Nongyin Dome is certainly not the only sight and ½km southwest of peak 1023.7 worth seeing here. From the on the Chinese 1:50,000 series map (6- impressively large entrance passage 48-130-B). Exploration, surveying and onwards there are many sights, which photography of the system involved captivate the attentions of the five trips and 140 man-hours. explorer. A major surface feature consists of a On the whole, Shadong is certainly a steep-sided, cliff-walled collapsed must-see cave if one is in the area, doline which is roughly oval shaped, especially as it contains areas still approximately 80m long, 35m wide unexplored and remaining to be and 35m deep, with the long axis surveyed. A final word; It is a cave, I running roughly N-S. The surface think, for lovers of mud and large crater is situated in almost level rooms! cultivated fields. Descent is affected at the SW corner of the doline and involves a zigzag descent of the south Shadong, with its very impressive wall through a bamboo thicket, network of passages, mud formations followed by a descending traverse of and array of cave life was also chosen the east wall to the floor, which is as a subject of Arthur Salmon’s water composed of large boulders. The chemistry project, which is to be northern wall of the crater has a high published later on this year. level fossil cave of limited extent. A Although the river in Shadong was lower level entrance, which was located quickly on the first day, it deliberately blocked by rubble in soon sumped in spectacular fashion. 1998, lies under the overhanging west Its capacity to ebb, flow and rise was wall. quite incredible and over one night the river rose by the sump almost ten The Local Government was anxious metres! Although no further river that the cave should be fully passage was located in Shadong, a investigated and surveyed since it was number of sumps were discovered and thought to have potential as a show towards the end of the expedition, a cave. The blocked entrance was lead was found, but time was not cleared by local workers in an available to pursue it. Its promise operation that took two days and on completion of this Tony Penny, Cai

The YRC Bulletin 19 Summer 2001

Wutian and a local guide made a very north for 100m and then east- hurried trip through the system and northeast to easterly for some 300m. returned with news of a large passage, After a small ascent, followed by a which was well endowed with cave descent, the character of the passage formations, but with floors of very changes markedly, becoming a slippery mud. The major feature of sizeable chamber. An acute turn to interest was a huge chamber, which the north leads one up a steep slope at was a veritable Alladin‟s cave, so about 45 for about 80m to a larger richly was it decorated with chamber, which extends about 100 x formations. 100m. Initially the slope is of mud, Thus, the serious work of exploring, but then becomes a calcite flow which surveying and photographing the merges into a huge pillar. The lower series began. As mentioned decoration of the chamber is very above, this was certainly not a virgin varied, with large pillars and a slender cave and may have been entered many ~15m column of pure white crystal, generations ago by the local villagers. which was named „The Wellington There certainly was evidence of this Boot‟ because of its unusual shape. and, indeed, some, fortunately not a The height of the chamber could only great number, of the cave‟s unique be guessed at and could be in excess formations had been damaged. of 50m. The survey indicates that the Entrance from the open crater was by floor of the chamber is approximately a 3m pitch through the boulder choke at the same elevation as the fields and was facilitated by a hand-line surrounding the surface crater, from a hanger placed in the wall suggesting that the chamber is very above the entrance. The pitch was close to the surface. Further followed by a steeply descending surveying of the surface topography is boulder slope for around 150m in a needed to clarify this. roughly westerly direction to a The quality of the formations in the junction with an almost horizontal chamber do suggest that Pengjiawan passage. This passage was a major could, indeed, be developed as a show feature of the system and varied in cave, provided due attention was paid width from 15 to 30m. The floor was to environmental considerations. This generally made up of mud banks, with may be facilitated if the chamber is, as no sign of any stream flow, but with looks probable, close to the surface occasional small pools. The roof of thus permitting a gallery to be driven the passage is well adorned with directly into it from the surface. stalactites and the mud floor has some stalagmite bosses. Although there The cave of Shendong was explored was little water in the cave during the over a period of one day and was the period of our exploration, it seemed scene of Harvey’s accident. that it must flood from the bottom up, from time to time, but it was impossible to estimate the frequency Shendong Arthur Clarke of this flooding. October 5th 2000 From the junction, the cave extends about 160m to the south. The right- After we had explored Shendong hand leg of the passage swings gently (Deep Cave), and reported its towards the west, then turns sharply dimensions back to Mr Cai, he

The YRC Bulletin 20 Summer 2001 thought we should probably re-name In the village of Nongyin we secured it, perhaps devising a name based on the services of a young man and our the two villages it was located cavalcade of umbrella wielding cavers between: Nongying or Nongyin (to headed off south along village paths the north) and Nongfeng (south). through village gardens. Some ten Back tracking a bit. This was Day minutes later our guide advised Mr One in the field for us – a rainy day Cai that we would soon have a steep with our umbrellas and japaras. There descent; we descended a 50-60º were four of us searching for caves in sloping side of a doline (part of a Zone Three, north of Lingyun: Arthur uvala) finally coming to an Clarke, Alan Fletcher, Harvey Lomas overhanging cliff wall where we and John Whalley with Cai Wutian thought our cave was going to be. acting as our guide. Being mindful There was no cave here, just lots of that the previous day a villager had bundles of maize stalks stacked up on told Prof. Zhu and a few of us that shelves of rock to dry out – being there was a large cave near a bamboo dried for future use as fire-burning grove “…over in that direction…” fuel. It was an interesting site for two where 300 people visited on one day other reasons: there was a quite good in 1998, we thought we were going to example of tufa deposits and possibly have a good day. After a phytokarst, plus a massive exposure fruitless search amongst some of palaeokarst: the fossil evidence of roadside karst outcrops, only locating an old cave chamber or cave passage an ancient grave tomb with ornate that had been infilled with cave figures and statues in sculptured sediment and boulders during a limestone (now desecrated with previous cycle of karsification and faceless heads), we were looking since re-cemented to become part of more like “drowned rats” with the present day rock structure. nowhere to go. We could see the (Present day caves sometimes form as rooftops of Nongyin village houses in complete or partial exhumations of these old palaeokarst deposits that are the distance beyond the mauve-topped maize flower heads, so Mr Cai often highly calcified and more suggested we look for a track leading readily susceptible to dissolution.) to the village where we could seek After a brief respite from the rain, we some directions or a village guide to continued along the lushly vegetated assist us. “valley” bottom floor into another section of this uvala, stepping down the short limestone boulder walls separating the outlying village garden areas. Some “step-downs” were quite slippery or greasy; Harvey Lomas discovered this and injured his buttocks and shoulder in a fall. We continued on, descending further and near the base of this uvala complex, there was a circular flat-bottomed silty mud floor garden area where we were told that there were sometimes “up-welling” pondings of water. In 1993 (or 1983?) this whole lower

The YRC Bulletin 21 Summer 2001 garden area had been flooded to a slither to a more respectable crawlway depth of 5-6m. Our cave was under a with only your hands and knees in the nearby cliff with dripping tufa near muddy water, so Arthur started the entrance. looking for cave invertebrates. About As we stood outside the entrance, 10-15m further on, Alan reported sheltering from rain, the guide and his seeing a cave beetle in a small “stand- mother told Mr Cai that the cave was up” chamber (a small aven) and John known as Shendong which at first also mentioned seeing a “spider”. sounded more like “shentang” to our While edging my way to this aven western ears. It was named as such site, Alan reported that they had because it has a passage that located the “drop” further on – where sometimes takes (and issues??) water the trickling stream goes down a – a passage going into the hill for a greasy mud slope of unknown depth short distance, and then descending leading to the sound of more rushing down to depths unknown. The water below. Alan returned to the villagers assumed these unknown surface to fetch a 25m length of “depths” to be the source of waters 11mm rope and subsequently with that sometimes emerged and flooded John‟s assistance rigged the “pitch” the lower sections of the uvala. While from a convenient jug hold in the Arthur tended to Harvey‟s injuries small aven. Arthur looked for bugs, selecting a gauze bandage from the locating a small tan-brown carabid Tasmanian First Aid kit as an arm cave beetle, some small flies and a sling, Alan Fletcher donned his 3mm cave cricket that John had thought wetsuit and brand new orange was a spider. “Stanley Brown” overalls and The handline pitch was actually just a ventured in for a brief reconnaissance. 7-8m long greasy mud slope with Alan emerged about ten minutes later mud-covered flowstone banks which saying that “…it goes, it‟s a little bit connected to a small 0.6m wide 0.2- crawly but it opens up…” John 0.3m deep streamway which Whalley, clad in his new tight fitting funnelled down a 60-70º slope “Stanley Brown” overalls, followed waterfall channel into a narrow 1.8m Alan into Shendong, with Arthur wide x 1.2m “hole” of darkness. behind… and just to be different, Being the most suitably attired, Alan Arthur was dressed in the more drew the short straw and descended spaciously proportioned “Graham reporting that the stream disappeared Salmon” grey-coloured overalls! It into a low roofed deep sump pool was indeed a quite “crawly” (I would with silt and sand – perhaps only have called it “grotty”) passage that you entered after slithering over boulders and the dry dusty substrate that soon became a muddy-floored passage with a small trickling streamway. I was already starting to think that if this is what Chinese caves were all about, I should have stayed home in Tasmania! The cave did in fact open up, enlarging from a chest-wetting belly

The YRC Bulletin 22 Summer 2001 worth exploring further if there was no rushing water or threat of more rain. We opted to follow the main passage upstream – it meandered through a few small chambers with decoration and then into a very large chamber with guano piles and numerous guanophiles: the myriad of small cave invertebrates that devour bat (or bird) guano. On one of these guano banks we saw our first “Hairy-Mary” (scuterigid centipede) with a body length of about 6-7cm. Following the stream passage – now with a 1- 1½m wide x 20cm deep stream in a 2½-3m high flat-roofed passage, we found dozens of roosting bats. These bats were quite large, clinging tenuously to the fossil rich bedding and 7.83). When we caught up to plane ceiling of the stream passage. John, he was still smiling with camera The cave passage continued upstream in hand and we continued to survey through sections of cave decoration out. The cave was quite short (see with mud-cracked floor or mud banks. survey) and relatively pleasant apart from the entrance passage series of crawlways. Near the junction with the entrance passage – on the headwall above where Alan had descended the short waterfall – we found our next surprise: our second “Hairy-Mary” (scuterigid centipede), by far the largest specimen I had ever seen with a body length of about 11- 12cm.

We continued exploration upstream to a point where the cave narrowed and became blocked with speleothem formation around a small pool of bluish tinged water. We decided to survey out and retreated to a small side chamber for a snack break. John took some photographs while Alan and Arthur took some water Apart from its 15 pairs of menacing samples and measured water long slender legs, it had tremendously temperature (19½ºC) and took two pH long (20cm plus) antennae. Time to readings at two separate sites (7.76 make an exit!

The YRC Bulletin 23 Summer 2001

the cave to the road – and were actually overtaken by a herd of horned mountain goats en route. Jonglidong Bill Hawkins The cave is in the valley bottom close to the village of Xia Nongyang, north of Lingyun. The entrance is three to four metres up a cliff face in a small rock amphitheatre. It is best approached from the left. A simple climb leads to a short The exit was a bit painful (without entrance passage, which ends in a knee pads) – along with the tight, steeply descending rift. Large frustration of short survey legs in cavers may have to traverse dampness and mud; mud that awkwardly up into the rift in order to eventually plastered both the plastic get through. A handline may be survey book folder and tackle bag by useful here. the time Arthur emerged at dusk. We The rift leads into a small clean were happy to be out after our first chamber with interesting gour day‟s caving in China and even formations. The walls are completely managed to crack something of a encrusted with stalagmite deposits. smile for Harvey Lomas when we The chamber ends in a short crawl were photographed beside a very behind a stalagmite, which leads to clean and respectable looking Mr Cai. the small final chamber. This slopes Even Harvey, bandaged arm in sling, upwards and ends in a small hole. It cracked a smile. With fading light we is impossible to see if this hole leads ascended the steep sided doline via anywhere without seriously damaging what seemed like a goat track from the formations. It seems unlikely that it does. Like the first chamber, the final chamber is well decorated and completely covered in deposits. Total length about twenty metres first explored 5th October 2000 by Tony Penny, Arthur Salmon, Mike Pitt and Bill Hawkins. Jonglidong means “Presidents Cave” named in honour of the then YRC President, Ian Crowther.

Nearby was an interesting cave called Xianongyang…

The YRC Bulletin 24 Summer 2001

Xianongyang Bill Hawkins Two small boys pointed out this cave to Tony Penny on the day we visited Jonglidong. The entrance lies some sixty metres up a steep wooded hillside and is well hidden by vegetation. On first examination Tony After looking in some short side thought the small entrance passage led passages and surveying the cave, we to a pitch, but without the luxury of a dropped a rope down the small shaft light at the time it was difficult to tell! near the entrance to the first chamber. Several days later Tony and I returned This lead only to the true floor of the with the necessary equipment to chamber, again with no way on. explore and survey the cave. The The Chinese had obviously known the small entrance passage actually led to cave for generations. Everywhere a steep slope of debris into a small were the remains of burnt rushes and chamber with an eyehole at the the rock was polished by the passage bottom. Slipping through this we of many bodies. We wondered what found ourselves in a dry well the cave had been used for, but there decorated chamber of some size, was no archaeological evidence to being roughly circular and about answer our queries. We did not even twenty metres in diameter. The floor find a magic lamp. consisted mainly of fallen boulders covered in stalagmite deposits, but lacking in any lustre or brightness. A short pitch was noted close to the entrance and left until later. On the far side of the chamber, opposite the way in, we found a rift going upward, but also accessible at floor level. Tony took the low route and I tried the one above, uniting after Because this had turned out to be a a few metres. The way on lay through short day in the field, we decided to another small hole. Surprisingly this try to hitch hike back to the hotel, led to a much larger and impressive after leaving a message with the chamber, again well decorated. minibus that we would not need transport back. After having our At the far end of this second chamber, photographs taken at the local school high up in the roof, was a small we found ourselves back on the window to the outside world. This roadside, thumbs at the ready. A was at the top of a massive stalagmite police car spotted us, pulled up and covered wall, and after a few abortive gestured for us to get in the back. On efforts we gave up trying to climb up the back seat were two prisoners, one it. The whole impression of the place handcuffed to the side of the vehicle with the daylight creeping in from and one slumped unconscious across above reminded us of Gaping Gill the seat. The latter was Main Chamber, without the water. unceremoniously jammed upright There was no further way on. against his colleague and Tony thrust

The YRC Bulletin 25 Summer 2001 in beside him to keep him vertical. I First off, we walked the entire rim of was squeezed in between Tony and the doline. Bruce was trying to find the door and the journey to Lingyun the best camera angles and Graham resumed. We wondered exactly where and I were looking for the best hang. we were being taken (we didn‟t even Initially we were tempted by the black know if hitch-hiking was legal in slightly angled rock on the south side China) but we were driven directly to of the rim, but in the end we decided the hotel where we made a grateful to be audacious and go for the clean escape. An interesting end to a rock and completely free hang from pleasant day‟s caving. the lip of the main overhang on the north side. The remaining caves explored in We hacked our way down through the Lingyun area can be found in the spiky bushes and bamboo and summary of cave discoveries later in proceeded to put all our kit on. Funny this report. how a large drop like this means that everyone suddenly wants their During the final week of exploration buckles checking, that is except for in Lingyun the expedition moved Pascale, who in typical French-style, South to a limestone area where huge just smiled, shrugged and pulled on dolines and solution pits abounded. her home made French style One of particular interest was the lightweight harness…no buckles just Yanliudong Doline, a huge crater knots! We checked the big rope very 100m by 200m across at its base. thoroughly and packed it carefully. Descent into this was by a 150m free- There were no more stalling tactics hanging abseil. that I could think of, so we made a start. Yanliudong Jon Riley Two very large bolts were placed in some exposed limestone pavement At the beginning of the trip we had and a Y hang rigged. I then started been driven to the rim of the down the slope pulling weeds out and Yanliudong doline. I had the distinct throwing them all down the hole. feeling that it was being used as a carrot for all the keen SRT After about twenty minutes we had practitioners and it certainly was completely cleared the start slope and incredibly impressive. We had so the time had come for me to gently scientifically studied the depth by lower myself over the edge. The rock throwing rocks over the edge and was solid, but as is usual with a new counting until they went bang. We area of limestone, it was incredibly estimated that the hole might be sharp with occasional loose flakes of approaching 200m deep. At the rock. After applying a bit of bottom of the shaft was a raging, persuasion, I pulled some of the larger brown river and a carpet of lush green pieces off and threw them down the vegetation. Professor Zhu seemed pitch. Just after launch there was certain that it had not been descended about seven seconds of surreal silence and so, standing on the lip of the rim followed by an ominous, low, ten days later, there was a feeling of thumping explosion noise as the excitement and trepidation amongst boulders touched down below me. the group. Very sobering indeed!

The YRC Bulletin 26 Summer 2001

The base of the doline is about 300 metres square. Where there is daylight, there is a thick layer of fern and lush green vegetation. Under the overhang, the mouth of the cave, there is a thick layer of very sticky mud and a stream about 15 metres across that shows signs of flooding the base of the cave in the wet season up to the level of the vegetation. I started to walk down the mud slope towards the river and spotted a familiar sight, small Chinese footprints! Whilst abseiling, I had seen a makeshift ladder arrangement, that came down a ramp on one wall of the doline, but I could not see any way that the locals could have come down to the bottom from the ledge that it rested on a third of the way down the height of the Several Y hangs later and following a pitch. As I walked further on I began slightly diagonal line, I found myself to see many more footprints, perched on the lip of the overhang positively a path! Then on the west where it was marked by two wall I spotted a square passage enormous hanging formations. By leading off into the distance. this point, I had been hanging in my Once Graham had touched down we harness for about 45 minutes and was set off down the passage. About 100 beginning to get pins and needles in metres in we came across an 8-inch my feet and calves. I placed the final pipe that seemed to be carrying water bolts and dropped down into thin air, under pressure. The floor of the the tackle bag spinning below me and passage was natural, but the walls and the rope creaking as it fed slowly roof were too uniform to be the through the stop. Looking up at the originals, so we concluded that the two small bolts and down at the green passage had been enlarged using vegetation that didn‟t seem to be explosives. Later we spied telltale getting any bigger and with the heat of shot holes in the walls, which the rope burning through my gloves, I confirmed our conclusion. We prayed… But eventually, several walked through pools and along minutes later … touch down. The ledges following this pipe for about a world stopped spinning and the blood kilometre and then eventually saw rushed back to my feet. I let out a big daylight. We emerged in between two cheer and was replied to by a group of limestone cones in the middle of some locals and the TV crew that had paddy fields! Completely confused turned up to video the occasion. I and disoriented we walked back to shouted the loudest “rope free” that I join the others and give them the could summon and saw Graham start interesting news! his descent. Whilst he was coming By the time we got back, Alan and down I took the opportunity to look Pascale had touched down and Bruce around.

The YRC Bulletin 27 Summer 2001 was just in sight. We spent around an incredibly useful on a pitch of this hour taking photographs and looking size and would definitely recommend around the base of the cave. Another them in the future. Smilarly, the Hilti passage was found on the southern proved invaluable and drilled into the wall of the chamber. Graham and rock as if it were pine! All the Pascale quickly checked it out and expansion bolts were left on the pitch, could see daylight, but did not follow so to repeat the descent you would it out. We did not have time to cross simply need about 12 hangers and 200 the river and to do so we would have metres of rope, or alternatively just needed the dingy. The water flows walk in at the bottom! Later we found out from under the rock on the south that the tunnel had been blasted in wall of the chamber then sinks under preparation for a hydro scheme and the north-eastern wall. The opposite that the pipe in the passage at the bank of the river rises steeply into the moment is used as irrigation water in darkness and could be worth checking the fields and by the small village in out if you had time. the next valley. It was in this tunnel Graham and Alan volunteered to walk that Arthur Clarke and Arthur Salmon out of the cave rather than go back up spotted the cavefish. Arthur Clarke the pitch and between them they was particularly impressed with the kindly carried all our heavy kit out. flora and fauna in this short section of As they set off we hoped to see them passage. later as we had no idea where they were actually going to come out! Pascale set off up the rope first, followed by Bruce, each of them taking about half an hour to climb the pitch. Before setting off I checked the amount of rope left in the bag. There was about 20 metres, which puts the length of the pitch at about 170 metres. The climb back up the pitch was long hard work and we all commented on the tortured noises that the core of the rope seemed to be making and how it was best just to try to ignore it! Eventually, just before dark, I dragged myself and the end of the rope back over the rim. We stuffed the rope in the bag, climbed the loose slope of the doline and collapsed in the back of the van for the journey back to Lingyun and the prospect of another large banquet! We had found that the little Motorola radios had been

The YRC Bulletin 28 Summer 2001

Some Conclusions from the make a reconnaissance there. Leye Lingyun Area Exploration County boasts a massive area of limestone, considerably larger than It is interesting to note that the limestone area that was explored Lingyun. Arrangements had been around Lingyun was bordered by made between Professor Zhu and the Permian shales and, because of local government officials in Leye for extensive drainage from these shales, our visit to take place. As in Lingyun it is likely that considerable silting we were particularly impressed by the has taken place in the caves. level of hospitality that was afforded Evidence of this is particularly seen in to us, including the use of the Mayoral Xiashuidong and Shadong, where, four-wheel drive and the entourage of despite finding several kilometres of officials, which reminded us of how large passage, only truncated sections important our visit was to this region of the River could be accessed. of China. Between Lingyun and Xiagia, where A suitable, and indeed the only, hotel in Leye, was to be our base for the very large dolines were found, the now much larger River was only operations over a period of one-and-a- located momentarily before half weeks. After the usual meetings disappearing again. Shale infill and with dignitaries, and a number of ponding back from the hydro- banquets, followed by a thorough electricity scheme was much in inspection of geological and evidence and sections of a very large topographical maps, we visited a cave passage in the area are now number of features that Professor Zhu totally inaccessible. had selected on a previous visit to The other caves explored were Leye some months earlier. entirely of a fossil nature, often well One of the most significant and decorated, notably Pengjiawan, celebrated limestone features of Leye which the Chinese now feel has is the great doline of Dashiwei. This considerable commercial potential as spectacular doline is said to be the a show cave. second deepest in the world, the One of the most promising leads in deepest, of course, being the Xin this area is possibly the passage in Long doline in Sichuan Province, the Shadong where the River could be focus of a number of China Cave heard again. A lot more work needs Projects visits during the last few to be done in the doline area south of years. By no means did Dashiwei Lingyun where geological maps have disappoint us. As we stood high on revealed a number of very interesting its perimeter, rays of sun light features. vanished into its awesome depths. The doline supports its own primeval forest and eco-system virtually Exploration in Leye County undisturbed by humans. We had Ged Campion planned a three-day stay in the doline Halfway through the expedition, a to give us an opportunity to explore team was dispatched to an area forty the cave hidden in its lowest recesses. miles North of Lingyun, called Leye The Doline itself has an intricate County. Westerners had never entrance, a large cave with a small prospected this area and a team of six hole at the bottom providing a slot from the expedition were invited to onto a ledge system and terrace on the

The YRC Bulletin 29 Summer 2001 walls of the Doline. From a cliff face the work of our Chinese interpreters position, an abseil down for 50 metres complicated matters even further. Mr allows access to the huge Bivouac Chen, a Chinese caver, so quite a rare Cave before a 70 metre free hanging breed, had visited us from Nanning descent to the bottom. and had previously descended the Looking up the walls of the Doline Doline. He could speak no English gives the impression of four or five whatsoever, but managed to help us Malham Coves stacked on top of each find a way through the dense forest in other. There were truly clouds, „Will the dark to the mouth of the cave. We o‟ the Wisp‟ like, in the crater above tumbled, slipped and clawed our way the bamboo glades. Poor logistical through the darkness until at last we organisation meant that Stewart Muir, could hear the noise of running water, Alistair Renton, Shaun Penny and I the cave entrance. The sweet smell of arrived at the bottom in the late incense bearing trees and a visual evening. Radio communication and display of fireflies made the magic of the Doline even more vivid. Mr Chen had visited the cave the previous year and had joined a Chinese Army Expedition to chart its depths. Unfortunately, however, the expedition resulted in the loss of one of the soldiers who had been washed away after only penetrating the cave for half a kilometre. This trip, therefore, held great dread and awe for our Chinese colleagues, who were reluctant to enter it again given the high water levels we found in October. Mr Chen, working for Nanning TV wanted to make a film of our exploration in Dashiwei. Communication proved extremely difficult, especially when setting up the action shots! Rather amusingly, when we arrived at the bivouac site at the entrance to the cave, Mr Chen radioed back to the interpreter at the camp far above and the message came back that the water levels were rising. What it really meant was that the water was considerably higher on The cliffs and primeval forest of Dashiwei doline. this occasion than it had been The tunnel in the centre of John Whalley‟s photo when Mr Chen first visited the was the location of a stage camp. cave last year.

The YRC Bulletin 30 Summer 2001

The YRC Bulletin 31 Summer 2001

at a very large tributary that appeared from the left and was as big as the river that we were originally following. The potential for this river to continue is considerable; possibly 30-40km more cave may be found before its resurgence at Bailong. We returned to our bivouac and made contact with Tony Penny, and John Whalley and the Chinese support group in the camp at the top. Shaun and Alister and myself ascended the 70m pitch first, followed, we thought, by Stewart Muir. When we arrived at the top, tea was brewing and, after the long climb, we relaxed and drank our tea. All of a sudden, a mighty thunder of falling rock echoed round the Doline, breaking the surreal silence

that had prevailed. It sounded as though the whole pitch had peeled away, taking all and sundry with it. The Bivouac in the cave entrance was Anxious shouting and frenzied inhospitable and our supplies had not movement followed. Radio contact followed us down. We spent an was difficult and muddled. It uncomfortable night deafened by the transpired that Mr Han was actually noise of the river and harassed by on the rope and, as pure coincidence small insects taking great joy in would have it, a huge rock fall had mobbing our carbide lights. occurred one hundred metres out on the north side of the Doline. Stewart In the morning, entirely on empty later told us how he had seen two car- stomachs we explored the cave for sized blocks detach from the dizzy approximately 1½km. It was a river heights of the Doline. This sobering cave of magnificent proportions experience reminded us of our frailty providing sporting swims, and nature‟s prevailing power. Tyroliennes and climbs. At times, the river crossings were very challenging A very comfortable night was spent in indeed and Stewart Muir, voted our the caving camp above the fifty-metre strongest swimmer, had a few pitch, with a warm fire, hot noodles harrowing moments as he battled and Chinese folk music, and the view against a raging torrent to cross from of the glistening firmament through one side of the passage to the other. the tall cave window overlooking the Once he was across, the followers Doline. The next day we headed back were hauled in unceremoniously like to the surface to be greeted by the drowned rats. The Chinese were spectacle of local dignitaries, villagers particularly impressed by our Alpine and a host of four-wheeled drive caving techniques. We surveyed one vehicles and lorries waiting to take us kilometre of cave passage and stopped back to our Headquarters.

The YRC Bulletin 32 Summer 2001

The next two days were spent the collapse of part of the cavern. exploring an interesting fossil system, This discovery provided us with over the Xionajiadong Caves (East and three kilometres of huge and West Caves). The actual cave is beautifully decorated cave. separated by a huge doline caused by

The YRC Bulletin 33 Summer 2001

A Visit to West Cave of rising and spiralling vapour issuing and Smoking Cave John Whalley from the ground just to the left. This was the Smoking Cave, or th The 15 October was damp and “Madqidong”. Stones were dropped drizzly. After picking up our packed and there was silence for over eight lunches we boarded the assorted jeeps seconds, indicating a depth in the and headed out past the Gold Mine. order of 600 metres. This was not a We were soon off the good roads and shaft but rather a collapse feature into driving on rough tracks. Professor a massive cave passage that could be Zhu at one point indicated a column entered from a nearby doline and

The YRC Bulletin 34 Summer 2001 which apparently descended steeply limestone scar. Not a large entrance, and contained a large underground but a vegetated boulder slope led river. Clearly, this was a must for any immediately into a massive cavern, future expedition. However, our dwarfing the advance party on the objective for the day was to floor below. We set off through the investigate West Cave, or cave, climbing across the massive “Xionajiadong”, one of two caves calcite deposits, which in places comprising the fossil cave system of almost filled the enormous passage, East and West Caves. reducing the cross section to squeezes After perhaps an hour of driving on between knobbly stalagmites. This rough roads, the four-wheel drive made it all the more spectacular when vehicles stopped at a place where we we broke out into the large halls could look down through the trees on comprising the clear sections of the to a farmstead. Our Chinese cave. Another feature of the cave was colleagues lost no time in scrambling the ascending traverses across flow- down a stony track to enlist porters to stone inclines, impressive gour floors carry our tackle bags to West Cave. A and huge sentinel stalagmites. very pretty, young teenage girl It was to be a once only visit, with the wedged my heavy photographic case surveying team setting the pace and with a melon into a large wicker the photographic team attempting to basket, which she carried “rucksack keep up. It is doubtful whether many style”. She and her friend were of the locals, including the porters and referred to as The Spice Girls and the Mayor and other dignitaries, had were obviously brightening up the day ever been through a “wild” cave for our “hunters”. before, but they took it in their stride with excellent humour and an initiative, resourcefulness and attentiveness that seems characteristic of the Chinese. Roughly halfway through the cave, we came across a huge stalagmite with steps cut into the sides. At the top was a timber spout carrying the clear water of an inlet into a small trough. The whole was encrusted in calcite and obviously of considerable age. As to the purpose of these artefacts, be it ceremonial or practical, we could only guess. Certainly it was a long way underground. Leaving the road, we followed steep, rocky footpaths through shrubby We emerged from the “through trip” vegetation, which included many after a surveyed distance of about two species more familiar to us as garden kilometres. Some distance away we plants, such as Cotoneaster. It was a could make out one of the entrances colourful procession: the porters to East Cave, which was to be the sporting open umbrellas. Our next day’s objective. After fixing the objective lay at the base of a entrance on GPS, we proceeded to a local farmhouse. These were hill

The YRC Bulletin 35 Summer 2001 farmers: so-called minority people of country chicken, beans, pumpkin who are shorter in stature than the noodles etc., with lashings of boiled Han Chinese and whose agriculture is water, tea and rice wine and finishing self-sufficient. We were sat round a up with pieces of fresh honeycomb: fire to warm ourselves. The hearth ample fortification for the rugged trek was in the middle of the floor with a back to the road. huge wok sat on top and the smoke I am sure none of us will ever forget escaping through a hole in the roof. the hospitality and heartfelt welcome On the veranda outside we ate a meal of these simple people.

The YRC Bulletin 36 Summer 2001

Xionajiadong, East Cave The quick reflexes of the Chinese Leye County Tony Penny driver saved the day and with a length Down in the Dong Dong of string and several kicks to the affected wheels, we pushed the truck Rain fell heavily on our mixed party out of the way and crowded into the as we trudged up a narrow three- second vehicle. kilometre track to search the top of the doline containing East Cave. The usual recruitment of porters at the nearest farm to our destination We had spent three weeks following produced two fourteen-year-old up leads, gleaning information from giggling girls dressed in their best locals, rigging pitches, surveying new finery. They promptly seized on John finds across two counties and I was Whalley’s camera boxes and jammed beginning to flag from sleepless them in their baskets between nights, an abundance of banquets, and enormous melons. an excess of “cambehing.” or It was in vain that I offered them my “Cambeh” 1 rucksack, which was beginning to feel We had driven up to the start of the as heavy as my spirits. Everyone else trail in a four-wheel-drive off-roader, in the party looked like extras from which nearly lived up to its name Madam Butterfly with their gaily- shedding a track rod end and swerving coloured umbrellas, which towards a one hundred metre drop. nevertheless kept them very dry, whilst I, in traditional cagoule and 1 Cambeh, pronounced Cambay; horizontal headgear, was soaked to the skin. display of an emptied glass (as in bottoms We waded through cotoneaster type up). A challenge from one drinker to others normally followed by immediate refilling of bushes, were ripped by thorns and glasses and leisurely consumption continued occasionally tripped up by hidden until the next person shouts “Cambeh!” Can roots on the path, but eventually cause headaches and a loss of focus on the sighted our objective from the rim of next day’s objectives and consequently is the shakehole. much frowned upon by expedition leaders.

The YRC Bulletin 37 Summer 2001

A delightful classic opening, not It is the dilemma of all small unlike the exit from Calf Holes, was communities. No-one wants a visible to view. It was called “Dong Shanghai in every valley, but kids Dong” by our Chinese guides, being a need education and families want through trip leading to an adjoining modern comforts like electricity, doline. affordable health schemes, and Pushing aside the tall ferns as we transport for their produce to markets. descended, we began to survey There is presently no danger of towards the mouth of the cave, tourists making much impact in the checking the GPS for our position. area of East Cave because of its We made up an incongruous party, six remoteness and lack of supporting of us in bright orange oversuits and infra-structure (airfields, bus depots, carbide lights, and as many again of hotels, shops, etc. being far into the our Chinese hosts with mainly hand future). torches, dressed in ex-army battle We photographed as we proceeded fatigues, not forgetting our two small through the cavern. The exit, when helpers giggling and swaying under we reached it, partially sealed up with the weight of their panniers. dry stone walling to prevent the The first hundred metres inside the ingress of water buffalo, and through entrance sloped steeply, and in it we made our way to the nearest bending over to secure a footing, the smallholding. We were invited inside contents of the porters baskets shot from the incessant rain, and plied with out over their heads - melons, camera green tea and questions from at least boxes, spare water, batteries - all four generations of the family within. echoing down the incline in front of There followed a sumptuous meal of us. soup, chicken, rice, potatoes, bamboo Fortunately, no damage was sustained etc. washed down with a nip of rice- and, order being restored, we wine, served from an old style petrol can! proceeded with the business of surveying. A bewitching series of The interior of the farmhouse was lit large dry chambers followed, with only by the flames of a centrally- glistening stalagmite pillars placed fire, which had no chimney. throughout the one-and-a-half The smoke drifted upwards through kilometre length of the system. Now the loose fitting floorboards which and then small mud banks led up and formed the ceiling, and served to dry over to reveal sparkling delights that large sacks of rice, corn-on-the-cob would be the envy of any show cave etc. stored overhead. The constant back in England. wood-fire kept a stock pot simmering The purpose of visiting this and very low stools were arranged previously known cave was to around it, on which perched small measure and assess its potential for grinning kids, great grandmothers, toothless old granddads, and a core of future tourism in the region. The rural economy with its self-sustaining active sons and daughters. farms scattered about, nevertheless On the blackened walls could be needs an injection of visitors’ dollars made out faded posters of Bruce Lee to fund schools, hospitals, and good type characters, and under our feet roads to access them. scuttled numerous dogs, cats and

The YRC Bulletin 38 Summer 2001 chickens all squawking in turn at each Yes, it is true that we only explored other and at us. A very warm and 100m into Fong Yen, and we took cosy womb for temporary visitors, but three days and almost 500m of rope to obviously no Shangri-La for year do that. So what sort of place is this? round occupation. This question should be answered in Eventually we forced ourselves back the following account. out into the rain and dripping ______vegetation to complete a circular route-march to our waiting truck. Making sense of our maps and It was Professor Zhu who instructed measurements was all that separated the Leye team to first push the us from more “cambehing” back at Dashiwei Doline, and it was also the the hotel base. Professor who took us to Fong Yen. This was a very different atmosphere. Dashiwei was a starkly exposed Whilst John Whalley and Tony Penny doline that was clear to see and concentrated on the Xionajiadong, the photograph and had a record of a rest of the reconnaissance group were previous descent. Fong Yen1 was just guided to the Fong Yen cave, an a name to us and a finger on the map. entirely vertical system, almost Alum Even the Professor, who up to now Pot like, in a forest south of Dashiwei. was the possessor of all knowledge, Stewart Muir describes the didn’t really give us much warning of exploration of this cave, which took what to expect. We knew that it was place over a three-day period. forested and probably not as deep as Dashiwei. The knowledge of the fact, that there were so few facts, excited Fong Yen - the first 100 metres! me, as we hurriedly prepared for the Stewart J Muir unknown trip. Three large bags of 13-15 October 2000 rope, the Hilti drill, thirty bolts and all the slings we could find. This would I am left with memories of a have to do. I made sure we had a knife mysterious place, which has, after to cut the longer ropes if necessary thousands of years of formation, only and two radios that Mr Chen now started to give up its secrets. The provided. attraction is to the unknown, to something that extends us beyond our Ged was keen to push the unknown normal self-imposed bounds. This and he chose Shaun and myself with exploration takes us as close to the Mr Chen to provide a professional experience of visiting another planet filming service. After the 40-minute as any of us will ever achieve! journey out of Leye Town, we stopped on the off-road highway and With our brief encounter, I can hardly met our porters, who were to carry for claim to be that knowledgeable of this us. After the GPS reading was taken cave. But then again who else is there by Professor Zhu on the road, we to say anything, other than members were led by the locals across a level of the team in October 2000? This makes me feel excited; to be the person who is tasked to record the 1 One of the hunters told us the name Fong first exploration of this foreboding Yen means windy way. This is unconfirmed. place.

The YRC Bulletin 39 Summer 2001 scrub area and into mixed woodland. debatable from where the depth would This gradually descended into dense be measured. Also we had no idea in woodland, still on a worn path for a which direction to look for a cave further 10 minutes. There was some entrance. Fong Yen’s secrets were discussion amongst our guides, before held for a good while yet! breaking right into thicket, which was A succession of rope hangs and penetrated with a machete. Even so, deviations from trees were used to as the team descended slowly, I took a reach a shaded col at -25m. The col special regard of the inch long thorns, was created by a prow of shattered any one ready to give a nasty rock that seemed to block the way infection. forward and down into the canyon. I At this point, I couldn’t really believe decided to go to the right of it, for no that we were being led to a doline. particular reason, other than there Professor Zhu had remained on the seemed to be better trees to abseil road, and it was probably all a scam from. I fought my way down layers of by the locals to earn some cash by taking us to a Mendip-type cave in a wooded depression. How wrong could I be! The professor had stayed back because it was awkward terrain, with greasy limestone chutes and ledge systems poised above 70-degree jungle. The entire caravan came to a decided halt on a ledge and everybody stared into the jungle. Through the tree canopy, on the opposite side of an abyss, I could make out a rock wall capped by a complex roof system. The large jutting roofs were higher than our viewpoint. So they blotted out the territory beyond them. But one could just guess we were on one side of a canyon, rather than a doline depression. We really could not get a fix on the depth of what was below us, as it was a convex sodden fern banks, working the rope slope as well as being entirely between saplings and bushes. At -40m vegetated. Because of this, it was

The YRC Bulletin 40 Summer 2001

I found myself perched on the lip of There were vertical walls both sides. an overhang. I attempted to drill a bolt Immediately upstream from where I for a re-hang, only to find that it had landed, was a house-size chock wasn’t rock but rotten calcite instead. stone. Downstream, green mossy I prussiked up 5m and avoided this walls rose up for more than 100m. overhang by traversing to reach a tree, Most of the sky was blocked by the which allowed a direct drop to -50m overhangs above, however, the (120m length of rope required to filtered light painted an eerie scene, reach this point). Here I managed a Y similar to the depths of Alum Pot. hang and descended a short groove, to Ged, Shaun and Chen regrouped at reach the bed of a 5m wide gully. the base of a chute into a pool. We all I thought this is not the best place to shared the concern that this passage is be running an SRT rope, but I was not the place to be caught in a storm, being guided by where I could reach even though at present there was only good rock for drilling bolts. The gully a trickle flow. We pressed on and had collected debris such as fallen after a short pitch in the base of the trees, rotten vegetation and jammed canyon, we completed our rope at - boulders, but I rigged across to the far 181m at the head of a 6m pitch. There side. From there I followed that side was no question, we would be coming of the gully down over jammed back the next day. A slow exit, due to boulders to land on a comfortable a communications mess up and poor ledge, 4m wide and 8m long. I really teamwork, meant we didn’t get to needed a break from this scrappy Leye town until 10pm. terrain, and now at -87m things Next day, Ged had responsibilities to started to look better. We were on the go with another part of the team to edge of the canyon now, with the East/West Cave. Alister took his place roofs, which we had spotted earlier, and joined Shaun, Chen and myself almost directly overhead. We could for our second day in Fong Yen. We see a tortuous deep cut river passage quickly reached our furthest point. coming in from the south. It was The passage light changed as we impossible to see the way directly passed through a roofed section and down from the ledge; so I threw a then back out into a 150m deep rift. It rock over the edge...it fell unchecked definitely had cathedral qualities. for 2 or 3 seconds, before smashing Very tall, drawn out features, with a on a solid floor. Excellent! religious calmness, broken only by Satisfactory rock could be found at our footsteps and gasps of awe and the outside edge of the ledge to secure the occasional bird cry, way above us. a Y hang, which dropped 7m to clean From the foot of the previous short rock under a bulge. Three re-hangs pitch, that was notable by its jet-black followed to avoid abrasion. This final shattered rock, we could easily walk free drop reached the base of the and scramble down the watercourse. It canyon at -140m. led to a bowl on a tight right-hand On my own for a few minutes, I was bend. This had been fashioned by the glad to get the circulation back into water, which in times of flood would my legs by unloading my harness and carry rocks that had pummelled the walking about. Looking around, the limestone. Close to this, in a small grandeur of this water-washed pool, we found a live snake that must environment, took my breath away. have been washed in. Immediately

The YRC Bulletin 41 Summer 2001 beyond this bend the passage drawn by this exploration. We hadn’t narrowed to 4m width where chock even entered into the cave passage stones had jammed tightly. Perched proper, as there was still distant on these we all looked down into a daylight way overhead. further dimly lit rift, the bottom of Shaun and Chen came carefully down, which could not be made out. It trying to reduce the rope rub and the surprised us and frustrated us, as we team grouped together on the far side had all assumed that most of the depth of the chest-deep pool. I reminded had been gained and we had not Shaun of all the snakes that would be carried any long lengths of rope. From washed into this pool, just as he our estimates it seemed there was at immersed himself. He let out great least a 60m drop, and if we tied all yelps and screams, as you would our rope together, it would only get us expect from Shaun, as he splashed his down the initial slabby section. All we way across. Alister and one of the could do was survey out from -202m. hunters had volunteered to man the I drilled a single bolt ready for the radio at the head of the pitch, just in next trip, and this proved to be more case of flood. The lack of bolts had significant than expected. meant the rope was directly down the On the third day the same team watercourse, and it would be arrived fresh at the head of the pitch. desperate to get back up even with the That is all except Shaun, who had slightest water flow. shot down the pitches and got himself The pool marked the true start of the trussed up at the last free hang into cave passage, and at -264m we the canyon, and was complaining of needed to use our lights. Chen filmed feeling knackered. Light rainfall had the two of us making our way made no difference to the trickle in between boulders and the blackness the riverbed. The big setback came beyond. With a height of 20m and when I prepared to rig the pitch. We width of 5-10m this was the type of had a 100m rope and plenty of bolts to passage that would lead into an active really make a big push and a few short river system. The boulders had a lengths of thin rope. But the battery damp mud layer and debris was was completely dead. We discussed trapped everywhere. Was this the our options, and I was prepared to result of a recent flood coming down abseil as far as possible, to see if I into Fong Yen? Or was it from water could find a route down that would rising from a river further down the give least abrasion. After 10 minutes, passage? The latter seemed unlikely, having descended a fluted wall, I as there was absolutely no sound of landed on a water-washed slab. Half running water.2 Neither was there any way down a slippery water shoot, I safe refuge in case of a flood, such as reached the end of the rope above a side passages or lateral banks...it pool. I tied a sling around a would be wall to wall water, boiling conveniently jammed length of wood, up between piles of boulders. and radioed up that someone must come down with a rope. Then I let the Only 60m further down the passage, a end of the rope whip through my short drop blocked our way. With no Stop. If necessary, I thought we could tie on an extra length to reach the 2 Bear in mind the 30m rise in water levels pool. It is in this situation, that you that had shocked the expedition in Shadong, think “that was stupid!” ... but I was in Lingyun County.

The YRC Bulletin 42 Summer 2001 drill, I fixed a rope for Shaun by The Leye County block of limestone acting as the anchor myself, backed has considerable further potential for up by a pebble chock stone. I held as exploration. It covers almost 520 Shaun abseiled on our two last ropes square kilometres of limestone with tied together! This was somewhat many cone karst features. The river limiting to our exploration, because I system between Dashiwei Doline and now had to stay where I was. For the resurgence at Beilong is estimated some reason Chen decided not to go to be somewhere between thirty and down the pitch, so we just waited for fifty kilometres long, with a flow rate news from Shaun. He returned and of 3 - 121 m3/sec. Important features, reported that he reached another short upon which information was gained, pitch of about 20/24m but the passage provide material for a further continued as a similar rift passage. expedition. These are as follows: We would have to leave this A large Doline group east of Dashiwei exploration for another time, having itself. only been 100m into the passage. We 1) Baidong, just east of Dashiwei, had already decided that we would de- which is said to be a river cave with a rig the complete cave that day, so we sky-light. There is a good draught surveyed out from -289m. We found and steam rising from the orifice. It Alister was still within radio contact, has been explored by Mr Chen to a so we told the hunter to start moving limited extent. It is approximately out. The task of de-rigging was 300m deep. greatly aided by the hunters, but it was made worse by the rain that 2) Yanzhi Doline. Estimated to be started in earnest that evening. The approximately 180 metres deep with a vegetated banks turned to mud and small cave at the bottom. It may have darkness fell. I can’t forget the been explored by local people and it camaraderie that welcomed me on the was filmed by Mr Chen last year. final ledge that night. A fire had been 3) Shenmu Doline is close to the kept alight all-day and smoky beef on former and has a sloping bottom. It is a stick tasted just wonderful. believed that SRT is not required. It Heavily loaded with bags of rope, it may have been explored by local took a full hour to reach the road, and people. still our spirits were high with our 4) Huangjing Doline to the far success. However, I could not help west of Dashiwei. It is believed to be thinking that we have just had a 100 metre deep and has been glimpse of Fong Yen’s full glory. descended by local people using ladders. There may be a small cave at the bottom. Some additional exploration of the river caves just outside Leye Town 5) Chuandong and Jiameng itself was undertaken, revealing an Dolines. These are deep Dolines interesting river passage and large approximately 100 metres in depth. truncated sections of cave, seemingly 6) Luojia and Shujia Dolines. hydrologically quite separate from the These are only 200 metres away from Doline systems explored earlier. Dashiwei and Shujia has not been Further Potential for Caving in descended as far as we know. Leye County

The YRC Bulletin 43 Summer 2001

7) Datuo and Dengjua Dolines. Cave Fauna Arthur Clarke The first of these is 150 metres deep The material collected was listed in a and the second 80 metres deep. They preliminary draft of field notes may not require SRT for a descent. It pending further study. It would be is believed that there are caves at the tedious reading to include that here, bottom. however, observed (but not 8) Dachao Doline. Thought not to necessarily collected) species included have been descended and will require the following. SRT. It is approximately 50 metres Spiders, Mites, Moths, Ants, deep. There is said to be a dry cave at Harvestman, Termites, Springtails the bottom. Beetles, Frogs and Bats 9) Luohuasheng Doline. This is Rhaphidophorid or Cave cricket. west of Dashiwei and has collapsed Small carabid beetle on three sides. It is believed to have a Millipedes including white (cave cave at the bottom. limited?) and pigmented species Considerable work will be needed at Scuterigid centipedes - 6-7cm long the Beilong Resurgence to the north and 11-12cm long of the limestone block. This is a Various flies including Yellow- major feature that eventually joins the backed flies, Diptera and Guano Hangshui River. A link up between flies Dashiwei Cave and Beilong Grey coloured, soft-bodied, scaled Resurgence would provide the longest isopod-like species with cerci and caving trip in China. wings (hemipteran? or lice?) White moths like starfish on walls Depigmented carabid beetle 2cm long Mosquito larvae or similar Staphylinid (?) Unknown dark coloured aquatic species with claw-tip legs, possibly insect larva (?) Non-glowing mycetophilid (fungus gnat or glow-worm type) larvae Mycetophilid larvae Decapod shrimps Mycetophilid larvae Slug 3½-4cm long Hemipteran (or possibly a pseudoscorpion) Unusual elongated land snail. Staphylinid beetle Tapeworm length flatworm Uropygida (whip scorpions) Dermaptera (earwigs)

The YRC Bulletin 44 Summer 2001

2. Ged Campion, Bruce Bensley, Alistair Arthur suffered an enforced rest day Renton, Graham Salmon. Shadong. in a Lingyun Hospital bed possibly as Exploration and surveying. - 8 hours a result of sucking up too much guano 3. Alan Fletcher, Arthur Clarke, John dung or dust when using his cave Whalley. Shendong. Exploration. - 5 hours fauna aspirator to collect small 4. Shaun Penny, Stewart Muir, Jon Riley, specimens. Pascale Bottazzi. Xiashuidong. Exploration. - 7 hours A full report has been prepared on the Friday October 6th. cave fauna but is too specialist for this 1. Graham Salmon, Arthur Salmon, Bruce publication. Bensley, Bill Hawkins Shadong; surveying. - 6 hours 2. Shaun Penny, Stewart Muir, Jon Riley, Pascale Bottazzi. Xiashuidong. Exploration and surveying. - 7 hours 3. Arthur Clarke, Alistair Renton, John Whalley, Alan Fletcher. Pengjiawan Doline and fossil cave: exploration & surveying – 4 hours. Longtaowan. Exploration and surveying. - 4 hours 4. Ged Campion, Tony Penny, Mike Pitt. Exploration of large doline (No way on found) - 8 hours. Saturday October 7th. 1. Tony Penny, Bill Hawkins Xianongyangdong. Exploration and Analysis of Daytime Person-Hours surveying. - 5 hours in the Field Bill Hawkins 2. Arthur Clarke, Alan Fletcher, Alistair Renton, Graham Salmon, John Whalley This is a day-by-day analysis of the Longtaowan. Exploration and surveying. - 8 man-hours spent in the field, or other hours caving related activities, for the 3. Shaun Penny, Stewart Muir, Jon Riley, daylight hours from Thursday, 5th Pascale Bottazzi Xiashuidong. Exploration and surveying - 7 hours October to Monday, 16th October 2000. It does not take into account a 4. Arthur Salmon, Mike Pitt, Bruce Bensley Surface exploration to find stream sink. - 7 day involving the whole team spent hours on reconnaissance in the Lingyun 5. Ged Campion. Dealing with the Chinese area, or the many hours in the media and film crews.- 7 hours evenings when some expedition Sunday October 8th members spent time entering survey 1. Arthur Clarke, Arthur Salmon, John data into computers, downloading Whalley, Alan Fletcher, Mike Pitt, Bill photographs onto PCs, preparing and Hawkins. Shadong. Exploration, cleaning equipment, or organising photography, and surveying.- 8 hours activities and duties for the following 2. Tony Penny (with Cia Wutian) Pengjiawan (the potential show cave) day. Exploration.- 5 hours 3. Shaun Penny, Jon Riley, Pascale Bottazzi Thursday October 5th Xiashuidong. Exploration/survey.- 7 hours 1. Tony Penny, Mike Pitt, Arthur Salmon, 4. Graham Salmon, Stewart Muir. Upper Bill Hawkins. Exploring valley for swallow Buffalo. Exploration and surveying.- 6 hours holes. Exploring Jonglidong. 5. Alistair Renton, Bruce Bensley. Drawing (Reconnaissance trip) - 6 hours Surveys.- 5 hours

The YRC Bulletin 45 Summer 2001

Ged Campion. Preparation for Leye County Tony and John to base camp part way down, Expedition. - 5 hours others to camp by river at bottom.- 10 hours Monday October 9th Wednesday October 11th 1. Arthur Clarke, Bill Hawkins, Bruce Lingyun Team Bensley, Pascalle Bottazzi, Alan Fletcher, 1. Harvey Lomas, Pascale Bottazzi, Mike Jon Riley. Pengjiawan; exploration and Pitt, Graham Salmon, Alan Fletcher, Bill surveying.- 7 hours Hawkins, Jon Riley Shadong. Exploration 2. Ged Campion, Shaun Penny, Alistair and surveying. - 8 Hours Renton, Stewart Muir, Tony Penny, John Arthur Clarke (solo) Shadong. Fauna Whalley. Travel to Leye County. specimen collecting. - 5 hours 3. Graham Salmon. Checking survey details. 2. Arthur Salmon. Surface reconnaissance to - 5 hours find sink for Shadong inlet. - 7 hours (Arthur Salmon, Mike Pitt, Harvey Lomas. (Bruce Bensley unwell -virus) Non-caving day) Leye County Team Tuesday October 10th 1. Stewart Muir, Ged Campion, Shaun Lingyun team Penny, Alistair Renton. Exploration of 1. Arthur Salmon, Graham Salmon, Jon Dashiwei doline river for one kilometre Riley, Pascalle Bottazzi, Alan Fletcher, underground. Climb out to base camp. Bruce Bensley, Harvey Lomas, Mike Pitt, Surveying. - 12 hours Bill Hawkins. Pengjiawan. Survey, 2. John Whalley, Tony Penny photography and exploration. - 7 hours Archaeological work in base camp cave 2. Arthur Clarke. Sorting and classifying (Zong Dong) Photography.- 6 hours fauna specimens.- 4 hours; Shuiyuandong 2-3 Thursday October 12th hours. Lingyun Team Leye County Team 1. Jon Riley, Pascale Bottazzi, Alan Fletcher. 1. Stewart Muir, Alistair Renton, Shaun Derigging trip.- 5 hours Penny, Ged Campion, Tony Penny, John 2. Bruce Bensley, Arthur Salmon, Arthur Whalley . Descent into Dashiwei doline. Clarke, Graham Salmon, Harvey Lomas.

Nupindong, Buffalo cave 1 Photo: Alister Renton

The YRC Bulletin 46 Summer 2001

Pengjiawan. Photography.- 8 hours (Arthur Clarke unwell) Cave fauna sort 2-3 (Bill Hawkins and Mike Pitt - non-caving hours. day) Leye County Team Leye County Team 1. Stewart Muir, Shaun Penny, Alistair 1. Ged Campion, Alistair Renton, John Renton Fong Yen entered to 500m plus. Whalley, Tony Penny, Shaun Penny, Stewart Survey - 10 hours Muir. Climb out of Dashiwei doline. Survey 2. John Whalley, Tony Penny, Ged Campion. and measure. - 10 hours Xionajiadong (West cave) exploration. - 6 hrs Friday October 13th Monday October 16th Lingyun Team Lingyun Team 1. Bruce Bensley, Mike Pitt, Jon Riley, 1. Mike Pitt, Pascalle Bottazzi, Bruce Graham Salmon, Pascale Bottazzi, Alan Bensley Chengbi River Cave through trip. - 8 Fletcher, Bill Hawkins Shadong. Surveying hours and photography.- 9 hours 2. Graham Salmon, Alan Fletcher, Bill (Arthur Salmon, Arthur Clarke, Harvey Hawkins. Exploring and surveying small un- Lomas; non caving day). Arthur Clarke named cave near Chengbi River. - 3 hours spending 5-6 hours sorting fauna and 3. Arthur Clarke & Arthur Salmon: lebelling specimen vials Exploration and fauna collection in Leye County Team Yanliusuidao, plus exploration of side 1. Shaun Penny, Stewart Muir, Ged Campion passage & fauna collection in Yanliudong Fong Yen; to big dry river bed.- 9 hours (Support for team 1) Jon Riley; tackle 2. John Whalley, Tony Penny, Alistair sorting. - 4 hours Renton Buffalo Caves 1 and Nupindong 1.- 8 Leye County Team hours 1. Ged Campion, Tony Penny, Shaun Penny, Saturday October 14th John Whalley Xionajiadong (East Cave) Lingyun Team Exploration, photography . - 6 hours 1. Mike Pitt, Bill Hawkins. Chengbi River 2. Stewart Muir, Alistair Renton. cave; reconnaissance.- 3 hours Preparation for return to Lingyun. - 6 hours 2. Arthur Clarke, Arthur Salmon, Harvey Lomas. Lotus Cave with Deputy Mayor of Lingyun.- 3 hours Count of hours contributed in the field by 3. Pascale Bottazzi, Alan Fletcher, Jon Riley, individual members Graham Salmon, Bruce Bensley. Abseiling 180 m. deep doline to north of Lingyun. - 8 Shaun Penny 93 hours Stewart Muir 92 Leye County Team Ged Campion 89 Alistair Renton 89 1. Stewart Muir, Shaun Penny, Alistair Pascale Bottazzi 88 Renton. Fong Yen to top of big pitch. - 8 Graham Salmon 84 hours Jon Riley 84 2. Ged Campion, John Whalley, Tony Bruce Bensley 81 Penny. Buffalo cave 2. Exploration/ survey. Alan Fletcher 80 - 8 hours John Whalley 79 Sunday October 15th Tony Penny 78 Lingyung Team Mike Pitt 68 Bill Hawkins 66 1. Arthur Salmon, Mike Pitt, Bill Hawkins Arthur Salmon 56 Re-checking GPS for Jonlidong; exploring Arthur Clarke 52 adjacent shaft. - 4 hours Harvey Lomas 26* 2. Bruce Bensley, Pascale Bottazzi, Alan *Injured arm on the first day in Lingyun Fletcher. Shadong; exploration of mud slope and passages. Survey - 8 hours 3. Graham Salmon, Jon Riley. Shangnuidong exploration/survey - 8 hours

The YRC Bulletin 47 Summer 2001

Outline Report of the Survey of the Count of Activity Days caves in the Lingyun and Leye Caving Non-caving Areas days activity days Graham Salmon, Alister Renton, Alan Fletcher 13 Stewart Muir and Ged Campion Pascale Bottazzi 13 1. Introduction Graham Salmon 12 1 Stewart Muir 12 This report details only locations, length, Tony Penny 12 depth and general nature of the caves, which Shaun Penny 12 were explored by members of the expedition Bill Hawkins 12 between 4-17 October 2000. All the caves John Whalley 12 were surveyed to BCRA Grade 5 standard Ged Campion 11 1 (i.e. Bearings to within one degree and Alistair Renton 11 1 measurements within 10cm of the survey Jon Riley 11 1 stations) using Sunto Compasses and Bruce Bensley 11 1 Clinometers and Fibron tape, except for a few Mike Pitt 11 exceptions. No completed surveys are Arthur Salmon 10 published in this report as they are currently Arthur Clarke 9 1 being finalised, the cave lengths and depths Harvey Lomas 5 are taken from the centre-line surveys which were produced during the course of the expedition. For Lingyun, the majority of our time was spent in the northern region and only The final days: Monday October 16th was the two days were given to the Southern area. last day of field activity. Tuesday the teams For Leye, a smaller team spent a week reunited at Lingyun and made preparations carrying out preliminary research, descending for the transport of tackle back to the Karst two of the major dolines. Institute store in Guilin. A meeting with the Initial cave surveys can be found at Chinese Authorities discussed the www.yrc.org.uk/china_caves.zip. These are expedition‟s achievements and we officially in PDF format and read using Adobe took our leave of Lingyun. Acrobat® which can be downloaded free of charge from www.adobe.com/acrobat On the Wednesday we returned to Guilin where some expedition members spent None of this would have been possible several hours checking the tackle inventory, without the support of Lingyun and Leye washing ropes, and returning equipment to the County governments, and the co-ordination of tackle store. Their names and times were not Professor Zhu Xue Wen from the Guilin recorded. On Thursday we flew back to Karst Institute. Also the financial support of Shanghai for an overnight stop before the UK private and public sector, especially returning to the UK on Friday October 20th. the Yorkshire Ramblers‟ Club, is gratefully acknowledged. The information in this report is taken from 2. Northern Area of Lingyun my own diary of events, Arthur Clarke‟s journal, and the records of Ged Campion and 2.1 Jonglidong Stewart Muir. These have been crossed UTM: 48 661872 2697074 checked, and the report should give a fairly Altitude: 596.5m accurate picture of the hours and effort put Total plan length = 87.04m into the expedition whilst actually in China. If there are any inaccuracies then it will be Vertical range = 14.55m because some non-caving activities may not This cave is situated a few hundred meters have been recorded at the time. For example, ESE of the village of Nongyang some 2½m I have no record of time spent on the analysis up an overhanging limestone crag. This is a of water samples, or work on equipment by small fossil cave, which showed no evidence anyone injured. For any such omissions I of having been previously explored. From the apologise. entrance, the cave descends a little and takes on a rift character and is well decorated with formations. Access to the far reaches of the cave involves a tight squeeze between formations.

The YRC Bulletin 48 Summer 2001

2.2 Xianongyang Pengjiawan is a major cave, which has UTM: 48 661969 2697097 obviously been known to the locals for some time. The entrance is situated beneath a rock Altitude: 598m face in a large vegetated depression (40m x Total plan length of survey shots = 60.34m 70m) and had to be excavated to gain access. Vertical range = 12.65m The cave was re-sealed following the Small cave with two connected chambers. exploration, hopefully to preserve the features of this cave. 2.3 Longtaowan From the entrance a boulder slope descends UTM: 48 663959 2704955 about 70m to a large passage, which reaches Altitude: 729m up to 30m wide and 10m high. This passage Total plan length of survey shots = 58.08m is mud floored with occasional formations. It Vertical range = 57.77m would appear that occasionally the water wells up from below, however, no lower This cave appears to follow a fault, which has passages were discovered. This passage ends an average angle of about 45º. The rift is 4m in another boulder slope at the top of which is across. However, this becomes increasing an impressive chamber 100m x 100m and narrow towards the limit of exploration, 40m high. Two large stalagmite bosses that where one must descend through a precarious reach the ceiling dominate this chamber. boulder choke. The cave contains no However, the whole of the chamber is formations and possesses only a very small adorned with formations and gour pools. We stream. It is possible that this shaft continues suspect that this chamber is near to the but it was not pushed. surface, but this could only be proven with a 2.4 Lianhuadong (Lotus cave) surface survey. UTM: 48 659607 2694574 2.6 Shadong Altitude: 461m UTM: 48 663149 2701965 Total plan length of survey shots = 466.47m Altitude: 649m Vertical range = 10.55m Total plan length of survey shots = 2855.13m The entrance to this cave is situated close to Vertical range = 120.75m the E. bank of the Chengbi River near the This is the most extensive cave that we found northern limits of Lingyun. A dirt road passes during our explorations. It was obvious that immediately past the entrance and probably the local people have visited this cave though its construction was instrumental in breaking to what extent they have gone beyond the into the cave. This is by no means a virgin main river chamber is unknown. cave and there is much evidence of all parts having been explored, and to some extent The entrance is a large porch 25m wide and damaged, by local people. reaching over 25m in height, which is situated at the head of a valley, which at times of A short rubble slope from the entrance leads heavy rain carries a stream. A boulder stream to a considerable, more or less horizontal, passage leads off and eventually reaches a fossil cave system with passages of a pitch down to a river. This pitch can be substantial size which are well decorated with bypassed by climbing over mud banks and formations. then descending to the river. This chamber The local government asked us to consider its with its roosting bats is vast, the roof being potential as a show cave. Although it is well 20m high, the river itself is about 10m wide decorated, it does not compare either in scale and can be followed upstream to a sump; or quality with the existing show cave just to downstream also leads to a sump. The whole the NW of Lingyun and therefore would of this chamber must at times fill up with probably not be worth developing. It could, water (explaining the silt backs) during our however, be valuable as a very accessible explorations the level of the water in this “adventure” style cave. chamber rose 10m! Following on from the 2.5 Pengjiawan (potential show cave) chamber is a high level passage which leads, UTM: 48 664567 2704236 after a few gour pools, to a more aqueous section and an inlet passage. The high level Altitude: 708m passage must at times act as an overflow for Total plan length of survey shots = 1712.54m the inlet. The inlet is on average 10m wide Vertical range = 104.64m and 8m in height and was followed down stream to a pitch where the river could be

The YRC Bulletin 49 Summer 2001 heard. Due to the nature of the rock, this lead is a small climb that would give access to pitch was not descended. Continuing more large passage. A tenacious cave that upstream a sump is eventually reached. A gave up its secrets slowly. Although the short distance before the sump is another entrance was not far above where the river passage, which leads to an unexpected dome sinks, we were surprised that this cave did not shaped chamber. This chamber reaches 40m break into a river. in height and is about 100m x 100m. The 2.10 Hang Lian Doline (doline near floor is of fine cracked mud, but there are few Shadong) formations. A couple of minor passages lead UTM: 48 664008 2703161 off this chamber. Altitude: 843m 2.7 Shendong Vertical range = 300m UTM: 48 664138 2703729 Hang Lian Dong is a large vegetated doline Altitude: 670 300m deep. This doline was descended via Total plan length of survey shots = 173.59m two vertical descents, the longest of which Vertical range = 19.16m was 70m. Although there was evidence of Entrance in large doline at the base of cliff on massive cavern collapse, no cave passage was east edge. The passages in this cave average discovered despite an extensive search. 3m high and 4m wide, except for one 3. Southern Area of Lingyun chamber which reaches 15m in height. The 3.1 Yanliudong/Yanliusuidao banks of the river are predominately mud, UTM: 48 667275 though there are occasional formations and gour pools. The passage ends in a choked Altitude: 432m pool. Yanliudong is a massive cliff-walled collapse 2.8 Shangniudong doline 100m x 200m at the bottom of which the main river is encountered. This entrance UTM 48 666654 2708277 was descended by a 150m free-hanging Altitude: 700m abseil. Yanliudong is part of the Total plan length of survey shots = 750.43m hydroelectric scheme and an artificially Vertical range = 75.03m enlarged passage leads off for over 1½km to Yanliusuidao, where an irrigation pipe The entrance to this cave is situated in the follows a branch passage leading out into a side of a valley and is a porch (7m x 7m). muddy-bottom doline that is actively farmed The entrance passage which draughts strongly in the dry season. leads to a pitch, 20m, down which a sizeable passage (15m x 10m) leads off. Beyond 3.2 Chengbihedong (river cave) another pitch is a series of confusing Resurgence passages, which are fairly well decorated. UTM: 48 674960 2683193 More development needed. There were Altitude: 363m numerous other entrances along the same cliff face that we briefly investigated, all of which Sink ended abruptly. The lowest one, just above a UTM: 48 673674 2683874 sink, was descended to a depth of Altitude: 367m approximately 15m, where the way on was This is a meandering river cave with mud completely blocked by flood debris. banks whose upper slopes are of boulders and 2.9 Xiashuidong mud set cobbles. This cave was entered at a UTM: 48 665831 2707527 resurgence dam and after about 400m there is Altitude: 681m a large boulder chamber where the river flowed through some minor rapids. Total plan length of survey shots = 668.25m Following this is a section with more rapids Vertical range = 154.34m and meanders before the river breaks out into This is a predominately vertical cave with daylight and a large doline. After a further numerous sumps, blind pits and a muddy 200m the sink is met. Throughout the cave nature. This was explored over a 4-day there are possible side passages leading off. period and numerous leads were pursued. Due to time constraints no detailed survey There is one large chamber into which it was was produced of the cave. However, a BCRA not possible to descend due to loose rock. grade 1 sketch was made. Local fishermen This is estimated to be 80m deep. Another make use of the cave.

The YRC Bulletin 50 Summer 2001

4. Area of Leye Total length of survey shots = 1244.20m 4.1 Lao Mei (show cave) (1244.20m adjusted) Zone 48 - 656540 2740915 Alt 970m Total plan length of survey shots = 1234.60m Survey contains 18 survey stations, joined by Total vertical length of survey shots = 51.75m 17 shots. Vertical range = 23.76m (from There are 0 loops. \nupin_dong.c6 at 958.71m to \nupin_dong.c10 at 934.95m) Total length of survey shots = 456.00m (456.00m adjusted) North-South range = 871.63m (from \nupin_dong.c11 at 2742305.58m to Total plan length of survey shots = 451.84m \nupin_dong.a2 at 2741433.94m) Total vertical length of survey shots = 19.80m East-West range = 166.82m (from Vertical range = 17.13m (from \lao_mei.m17 \nupin_dong.a1 at 654678.11m to at 970.37m to \lao_mei.m2 at 953.24m) \nupin_dong.a29 at 654511.29m) North-South range = 125.68m (from 1-nodes (qty 2) \lao_mei.m13 at 2740951.70m to 2-nodes (qty 39) \lao_mei.m1 at 2740826.02m) A river through cave. East-West range = 350.99m (from \lao_mei.gps at 656540.00m to \lao_mei.m1 4.3 Nupindong 2 (Buffalo cave 2) at 656189.01m) Zone 48 - 654496 2742561 Alt 940m 1-nodes (qty 2) Survey contains 11 survey stations, joined by 2-nodes (qty 16) 10 shots. The entrance is above where the main river There are 0 loops. disappears into the hillside. It overlooks the Total length of survey shots = 243.20m town of Leye. It is almost horizontal and is (243.20m adjusted) gated at the far end before it joins the main Total plan length of survey shots = 241.29m river. The entrance is also gated and does not Total vertical length of survey shots = 17.04m seem to have had much traffic. The characteristic feature of this cave is the lotus Vertical range = 8.74m (from formations, like islands in the large shallow \nupin_dong_2.c6 at 948.74m to pools. There are no large chambers, but the \nupin_dong_2.gps at 940.00m) cave is consistently beautiful. Separate to the North-South range = 105.24m (from show cave, the main river seemed feasible, \nupin_dong_2.c10 at 2742561.97m to but was not explored \nupin_dong_2.c3 at 2742456.73m) 4.2 Nupindong (Buffalo cave 1) East-West range = 164.96m (from Zone 48 - 654602 2742303 Alt 944m \nupin_dong_2.gps at 654496.00m to \nupin_dong_2.c1 at 654331.04m) Survey contains 41 survey stations, joined by 40 shots. There are 0 loops.

The YRC Bulletin 51 Summer 2001

1-nodes (qty 2) was very little water present other than pools, 2-nodes (qty 9) but this is clearly an active system judging by the clean water-washed walls. No obvious A river cave that needs a boat to continue. camp or safe area found so far, that would 4.4 Fong Yen provide a refuge in flood conditions. It was Zone 48 - 642946 2748748 Alt 1114m explored over a 3-day period, to a point Survey contains 46 survey stations, joined by where daylight was lost and we ran out of 45 shots. rope. 500m of rope is required to this point. The way on is open apart from a small pitch, There are 0 loops. but given the hostile nature of the passage, Total length of survey shots = 1120.80m future exploration will be very committing. (1120.80m adjusted) There was no evidence of previous Total plan length of survey shots = 967.51m exploration. Total vertical length of survey shots = 4.5 Dashiwei Doline 410.60m Zone 48 - 645760 2744338 Alt 1332m Vertical range = 407.67m (from Survey contains 71 survey stations, joined by \fong_yen.gps at 1114.00m to \fong_yen.r1 at 70 shots. 706.33m) There are 0 loops. North-South range = 592.86m (from Total length of survey shots = 1189.45m \fong_yen.r1 at 2749340.86m to (1189.45m adjusted) \fong_yen.gps at 2748748.00m) Total plan length of survey shots = 1142.44m East-West range = 239.60m (from \fong_yen.r2 at 643054.73m to \fong_yen.p22 Total vertical length of survey shots = at 642815.14m) 210.21m 1-nodes (qty 2) Vertical range = 50.57m (from \dashiwei_doline.70 at 38.88m to 2-nodes (qty 44) \dashiwei_doline.25 at -11.69m) This is essentially a 400m deep canyon that North-South range = 426.66m (from could be a tributary of a large river system. It \dashiwei_doline.1 at 8.98m to starts by descending heavily vegetated slopes \dashiwei_doline.67 at -417.68m) and walls before joining the huge canyon, which is shadowed by jutting roofs. There East-West range = 822.11m (from \dashiwei_doline.70 at 805.75m to

The YRC Bulletin 52 Summer 2001

\dashiwei_doline.1 at -16.36m) 1-nodes (qty 2) 1-nodes (qty 3) 2-nodes (qty 57) 2-nodes (qty 67) Large fossil cave with considerable 3-node (qty 1) formations and volume. Takes the same line as West cave, separated by a doline. There A spectacular feature believed to be the 2nd was evidence of previous exploration by local biggest doline (by depth) in the world. This people. Consider potential as a show cave, was descended over a 3-day period to a large although inaccessible. river cave. It was followed for 1.1km downstream to just beyond the confluence of 4.7 Xionajiadong West (West cave) an equally large river. Progress was made out Zone 48 - 649367 2744627 Alt 1299m of the water most of the time, but was only Survey contains 50 survey stations, joined by possible by many river crossings. Explored 49 shots. previously by Chinese cavers in July 2000, There are 0 loops. when there were lower water conditions, but no survey data were taken. Even in those Total length of survey shots = 1358.70m conditions, it is possible for cavers to be (1358.70m adjusted) swept away. Total plan length of survey shots = 1282.02m The water is believed to resurge 30km away Total vertical length of survey shots = at Beilong, so there are significant 360.98m development possibilities. A daylight camp Vertical range = 158.27m (from was made in Zhong Dong, half way down the \xiongjia_dong.s2 at 1299.00m to wall of the doline, and another camp just \xiongjia_dong.s35 at 1140.73m) beyond the cave entrance where it meets the North-South range = 324.74m (from river. It must be noted that the forest area \xiongjia_dong.s36 at 2744843.62m to deep within this doline has an isolated and \xiongjia_dong.s6 at 2744518.88m) special existence and is very vulnerable. All exploration to this cave needs to take East-West range = 458.21m (from measures to minimise its damage. \xiongjia_dong.s55 at 649742.34m to \xiongjia_dong.s6 at 649284.13m) 4.6 Xionajiadong East (East cave) 1-nodes (qty 2) Survey contains 59 survey stations, joined by 58 shots. 2-nodes (qty 48) There are 0 loops. Large fossil cave with considerable formations and volume. Takes the same line Total length of survey shots = 1773.10m as East cave, but is separated by a doline. (1773.10m adjusted) There was evidence of previous exploration Total plan length of survey shots = 1630.67m by local people. Considerable potential as a Total vertical length of survey shots = show cave, although inaccessible. 481.90m Vertical range = 94.31m (from \dong_dong.20 at 80.35m to \dong_dong.56 at - 13.96m) North-South range = 931.39m (from \dong_dong.59 at 920.80m to \dong_dong.3 at - 10.59m) East-West range = 641.31m (from \dong_dong.47 at 629.10m to \dong_dong.1 at - 12.21m)

The YRC Bulletin 53 Summer 2001

Impact of Chinese culture (with lap-top computers. Much to our a very small c) on the Expedition relief, after a cursory examination and Arthur Salmon with a broad grin on her face our Everyone knows that the Chinese officer waved us through and we were have a rich culture that extends back now really in China. The grin was to when we Europeans were in the probably inspired by our Guangxi Stone Age, but here I will only Caves T-shirts. These had our logo comment on a few aspects of the on, but also had a brief description in Chinese way of life and its impact on Chinese characters, which had been the Expedition. prepared by the local Chinese take- away in Wolverhampton, of the An expectation, which, perhaps, each objects of the expedition. For all we of us held before our trip, was that had known, it might have described us Chinese officialdom would exhibit the as “western imperialist spies”!1 overpowering bureaucracy that was so reminiscent of that which existed in This cheerful, friendly and helpful Eastern Europe in the days before The approach was typical of all our Wall came down. Any such fears meetings with officialdom, and there were quickly dispelled on our first were plenty of them, meetings I mean, meeting with officialdom in the form during our stay. Nowhere did we of the security guards at the main meet any of the arrogance that many domestic airport in Shanghai. There Chinese are supposed to have and we were queuing up with large which is epitomised by the view that rucksacks and almost impossible to non-Chinese are inferior barbarians. lift hand baggage and a large degree Well, if this view exists in China, then of apprehension as to what they‟d it was certainly hidden from us. make of the contents –ropes, SRT Everywhere we went we were always gear, drills, batteries, boxes of flash met by real friendliness. bulbs, carbide lamps and all the Returning to officialdom, one of the paraphernalia of caving, plus several biggest surprises to me was the degree

1 Rest assured it didn‟t. I checked. Ed

The YRC Bulletin 54 Summer 2001 of importance with which the one simply had to become adept at Expedition and its members were quickly picking up the tastiest morsels treated by the Local Governments of from the gyrating dishes with one‟s Lingyun and Leye Counties. In fact, chopsticks as the dishes were rapidly for a group of lowly potholers, it was whisked away. rather staggering, not to say, I‟m sure the local people didn‟t enjoy embarrassing. Several meetings were either the quantity or variety of food held with senior officials of both we were provided with. Staples were districts and we were also entertained rice, which was more glutinous and to lavish banquets by the authorities sticky than how it‟s usually served at and also by individual senior officials. home, deep fried chicken wings, duck, On the day before our departure from sweet and sour spare ribs, often rather Lingyun, the Minister for Land and lacking in meat, and generally Resources of the Provincial excellent vegetables. Delicacies Government of Guangxi travelled the included deep fried wasps and wasp 450 km from Nanning, the Provincial larvae, roast leg of dog and whole capital, to Lingyun to meet us for a baked carp. All was washed down briefing session and again to treat us with copious quantities of China tea to yet another banquet. or the local beer that we all consumed The meetings generally involved all in large quantities. By British the Expedition members sitting round standards the beer was essentially a large conference room table together non- alcoholic, so drunkenness wasn‟t with the senior local officials and a problem. Professor Zhu and Mr Cai of the Karst During the receptions numerous toasts Institute. Early in the meeting tea were drunk preceded by a phrase would be served Chinese style in large which sounds like “cambay”, and pot-like china cups and could be which can be loosely interpreted as sipped quietly throughout the “down in one”. It was said that the meeting. Speeches were made on Chinese like to see Westeners make both sides and, depending on the fools of themselves by getting drunk. timing, the Chinese were briefed However, considering that the toasts either on what we intended to do or are drunk from thimble sized what we‟d already done. Clearly, the porcelain goblets, they would have Chinese believe that Expeditions such needed to work hard to have as ours are able to contribute to the succeeded with our bunch of typical economy of these poor regions by potholers. assisting in opening up some of the caves as show caves or by providing One evening the group was invited by information needed to develop the local Chief of Tourism to a hydroelectric power schemes. barbecue held on the promenade on the banks of the Chengbi River in the Returning to banquets, what about centre of Lingyun. This was a superb Chinese food and seating setting; the evening temperature was arrangements? Dining tables are like Greece in summer, the full moon usually round with a rotating stand in rose behind the tall limestone towers the middle on which the multitude of and cone karst that surrounds the dishes are placed and replaced by the town and a short distance upstream attendant waitresses when emptied. was an interesting arched bridge Western cutlery was not available and illuminated by green floodlights.

The YRC Bulletin 55 Summer 2001

Again we were treated to huge Photography Report Bruce Bensley quantities of food that included such Producing quality photographs in the Chinese delicacies as grilled snake, cave environment is not usually the barbecued starlings and barbecued simplest of tasks. First attempts with a pigs‟ penises or, as the team members standard compact camera will preferred to call it, “barbecued pigs‟ probably produce very poor results. dick”. This is how we started, and it wasn‟t One aspect of Chinese culture I must surprising when 5 acceptable shots mention is their fondness for karaoke. would result from a 36-exposure film. After many of our evening meals, our It wasn‟t long before we were hosts would find an excuse to have a experimenting with additional party in which karaoke featured flashguns using simple slave units that prominently. This was generally led slotted onto their hotshoes. These by our hosts, but usually wound up crude units, probably designed for with team members being pressed into studio use, weren‟t very sensitive. action, much to the individuals‟ Due to their limited working range embarrassment and the delight of the they proved to be unreliable triggers Chinese. Two of our team had resulting in many wasted shots. birthdays during our stay and again A far more reliable slave was soon parties were thrown by our hosts with found, namely the Firefly 2. birthday cakes, much karaoke, and ballroom dancing with the waitresses on hand to partner us. To conclude, I should put the record straight; although receptions and parties featured prominently in our schedule, on most days caving and travelling to caves took up about eleven hours and a further two or three were involved in planning the next day‟s activities, inputting survey data into computers, receiving and sending e-mail and writing reports Firefly2 and diaries. Some of these tasks often extended into the early hours, This is a very sensitive unit that can especially if your name was Arthur be triggered instantaneously by a Clarke. camera‟s flash over a distance of up to 500 metres! Although a direct line of

sight would be required to achieve this range, the units can be used around cave corners over shorter distances. Photographic range could now be extended along cave passages by a series of Firefly slaves attached by hotshoe connection to standard flashguns. The unit shown was treated with a waterproofing circuit board spray to

The YRC Bulletin 56 Summer 2001 give extra protection from damp cave Simple Bulb Firer environments. Care must be taken to The first line of enquiry was the avoid coating the battery contacts. internet and the BCRA website from Silicon sealant can also be used or which several contact names and links electrical insulation tape to seal the to other web sites were obtained. seams and oversized grommet. The From the BCRA Events Diary page, I thin wire to the hotshoe is vulnerable discovered that the formation of a to snagging if stuffed down a caving BCRA Photography Group was being suit and we have chosen to re-route considered. For a number of years, the wire and bolt the hotshoe onto the field meets have been held between casing with an M8 flat-headed screw. members of the Underground If picking up second hand flashguns, Photographer magazine and the Cave it‟s a good idea to take a Firefly, Radio Group and as a result a series flashgun and batteries to test with. of articles had appeared in the CREG Fireflys tend not to work with (Cave Radio and Electronics Group) dedicated flashguns which have Journals. After browsing this site I multiple pin layouts. Despite these decided to contact Richard Rushton points, this small unit is invaluable who pointed out the existence of a and functions reliably. ready-made bulb-firing unit from Fireflys are ideal for use with compact Firefly, the BF1. cameras in cave passage and on pitches. A length of cord can usually be threaded into the battery compartment through a drill hole providing a leash. A section of car inner tube makes a durable rubber band that can be tied to the other end. The Firefly should be secure if clamped by the flashgun‟s locking nut. BF1, bulb-firing unit The Need for Bulbs The unit features a BNC socket to which a fly lead connects terminating In preparation for our trip, we realised in an AG bulb holder. It is possible to that we would need more effective make your own adapters for other lighting for the huge passage and small size bulbs that may be of a chambers typical of Chinese caves. screw or bayonet type connection. Bulbs were the obvious solution but two months before departure we knew Alternatively, a domestic ES (Edison nothing about their usage, availability Screw) bulb holder can be wired to and method of firing. Although most the fly-lead version of the Firefly to bulbs will fire when connected to a take larger bulbs of this type. The unit 9V battery, the discharge from a is based on a David Gibson design for capacitor based circuit seemed to be the Firefly2 slave unit, and features a the recommended means of triggering bulb-OK LED to indicate good bulb bulbs. connection. The device is deliberately kept simple and has no on-off switch.

The YRC Bulletin 57 Summer 2001

Kits and Published Bulb-Firing possible. Alister was able to feed the Circuits circuit information into a computer program called To stretch our budget further, we decided to look at the possibility of „Protel‟, which building our own units. Indeed David came up Gibson‟s pages on the BCRA website with revealed that kits existed for IR slave the units and RALF units (mentioned above later). Unfortunately at this time a design for the combined slave and bulb-firing unit layout. It was hoped was not available. I contacted David that Mike Pitt‟s firm, BPC Gibson who kindly sent a copy of an Circuits would manufacture the early article “Flashgun Slaves for boards but time was unfortunately not Flashbulbs”. This mentioned two on our side and, as a prototype was circuits based around the Gibson thought necessary, we opted to use flashgun slave kit. The first of these Vero board instead. bulb-firers used power from two 1.5v Bulb-Firer With Firefly2 alkaline batteries to the bulb and was As we already had a couple of triggered by the Gibson slave unit. Firefly2 slave units in our arsenal, it The second was capacitor based, with seemed possible that we could build push break switch and LED‟s to some flexibility into our photo kit. If indicate when charging and when the Firefly2 units were used in fired. Also mentioned was an conjunction with a simple bulb-firer alternative circuit by Steve Clark with then these units could be split up if a slave unit capable of removing the required. The bulb firers could be effect of ambient light. Both of these used manually allowing the Fireflys to circuits were developmental and be used on a separate flashgun trip. required suitably valued components to avoid their slave units latching on. A prototype circuit was soon rustled In this situation, the slave unit enters a up and successfully tested. continuous cycle of charge and discharge. A later article “An Improved Circuit for Firing Flashbulbs” contained additional improvements such as manual firing, bulb „correctly seated‟ indicator and rotary bulb isolation switch for safety. It should be remembered that bulbs generate a lot of heat and can also shatter when triggered. We eventually obtained a copy of this final circuit, which was repeated in a Bulb Firer with hotfoot connection, manual later article “A Practical Flashbulb fire button, bulb isolation / on switch, power on LED and bulb correctly seated LED Firer” by Richard Rushton. Combined Slave and Bulb-Firer Our first thoughts were to design and build this PCB for the bulb firer in In addition to the Firefly/bulb-firer preference to constructing it on Vero combination, three combined bulb- board in order to make it as reliable as firer and slave units were also

The YRC Bulletin 58 Summer 2001 planned. Alister reckoned that these RALF Redundant Array of Little Flashguns could be built by linking the slave part RALF is a modification of the Gibson of the RALF kit to the improved slave unit. The idea is to use several version of the bulb firing circuit, flashguns fired in close succession to whose parts we would supply produce an extended period of ourselves through Farnell and Maplin. illumination, similar to that of a flashbulb. By using a longer exposure, moving water and airbourne droplets do not get frozen. The effect of motion is therefore maintained. The circuit incorporates a switch that can be preset to delay triggering of the flashgun. The delays range from 2ms to 32ms in approximately 2ms steps.

Combined Slave and Bulb-firer At the same time, RALF PCBs were ordered in and we could begin looking for suitable project boxes to house all the components for our two projects. Apart from the circuitry itself, the bulb-firer box had to house a PP3 9v battery, a bulky three-way rotary switch, and the base of an ES bulb holder. In addition to these, the combined unit required a larger box to house the RALF PCB and its two RALF Unit, housed in Nalgene bottle, MN9100 batteries. It should be noted complete with hotfoot connector that the RALF PCB uses smaller 0.2” The circuit for RALF is published in components which are not readily an article by David Gibson entitled „A available. The RALF circuit is High-Performance Flashgun Slave designed for use with flashguns and Unit‟. It should be noted that the because it is electrically separated terminal block, to which the flashgun from them, it requires its own power connects, has three contacts. There are supply at a reduced voltage. two connection possibilities to these which bring into play different Several weekends were spent at the components and is supposed to allow club hut carefully soldering, drilling, the unit to work reliably with differing filing, gluing and bolting-on makes of flashgun. Unfortunately, components to make the finished during our trip, we experienced articles. Not all units worked first problems firing our Jessops flashguns time when tested but with with RALF. The resistor used to perseverance we ended up with all protect the opto-triac from the high units working. voltages produced by certain flashguns, is probably responsible for

The YRC Bulletin 59 Summer 2001 de-sensitising the RALF unit. The old Bowen flashbulb equipment problem was corrected by adding in which he used in his days as a an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) professional photographer. He now and a bridge rectifier as suggested in specialises in the manufacture of the Problems and Further Work world class Ely studio equipment and section of David Gibson‟s article. The his own design of giant flashguns. Firefly2 appears to use these The 5” reflectors were ideal, being components between the opto-triac light, fairly robust and stackable. I and the output. preferred to replace the push fit The housing provided with the kit was Bowen bulb holders with an Edison a plastic medicine bottle with push-on Screw (ES) holder, but those found lid. It seemed almost impossible to fit encroached too far into the project all components into this, especially boxes. Instead, a standard bayonet since we had chosen to bolt on a bulb holder was hotshoe adapter. The search for an alternative eventually settled on a small opaque Nalgene bottle which was robust, not brittle and had a watertight screw top lid. A bolted bracket on the lid held the pcb and battery holder attached to prevent the components rattling around and easing their removal from the bottle. Blue-coated PF60 fitted to Bulb-firer chosen. The thread of this passed neatly through a hand cut hole in the side of the project box. Its cowling was retained as a locking nut and cut down to minimal size thus exposing the contacts for wiring to the circuitry. A bayonet to ES adapter, with flange cut down, was fitted with the collar for the reflectors. Our supply of PF60 ES to AG1B adapter, BS to ES adapter, 5” Reflector with collar and PF100 type bulbs could then be screwed in and the reflector height Reflectors And Bulbs adjusted to centre the bulb within it. Although excellent results can be We were initially in contact with obtained by using aluminium Meggaflash Technolgies Ltd, who disposable baking trays for bulb sent us a sample box of PF200 bulbs reflectors, it is preferable to locate that they manufacture. Because PF200 purpose built versions. If you trawl are now a specialist bulb, they are not second hand photographic shops, you particularly cheap. However, if you should be able to pick up reflectors are looking to light up a large and bulbs that were used in the days chamber, they are certainly worth before electronic flashguns. I was put considering, having a guide number of in touch with a gentleman after 143m (100 ASA, open flash). As ringing a shop in the Yellow Pages these are clear bulbs, you will need a who dug out and dusted down some

The YRC Bulletin 60 Summer 2001 blue filter (e.g. 80C) to compensate leverage, I was able to secure a refund your daylight film for tungsten light. and the safe return of our bulbs. Hopefully these can be put to use on a Our smaller AG1B bulbs were sourced from Firefly Electronics and future trip. Fortunately we were able proved to be very useful. Because of to obtain favourable results using our their smaller size, they were less smaller bulbs on the trip. likely to be confiscated on the plane Some advice, which turned out to be and were easy to carry in the cave. extremely useful, was to acquire some The output from three bulbs cheap radios. With cave photography, sellotaped together proved very co-ordinating several people over satisfactory for large chamber shots. distances of up to 100m can prove We needed an adapter to fit them into extremely difficult. Indeed, confusion the ES bulb holder. The first of these can ruin a carefully setup picture and was made from the base of a domestic waste valuable bulbs. Alister managed light bulb. A wedge base PCB to get hold of two Motorola TA-200s from the States and I supplemented lampholder from Farnell was wired to the ES base, but needed some these with a couple of my own. modification to accept our push fit A silky-tongued Mike Pitt secured a AG1B bulbs. A reasonable fit was donation from Pathfinder-Fox of two achieved by snipping off a couple of waterproof camera boxes. These were unnecessary contacts. Araldite was very robust, as we found out when a used to fix it in it place. Later versions porter jettisoned one down the used lighter, less messy plastic hillside. The contents were unharmed. padding for this purpose and ES bases The waterproofing was also tested in donated by Meggaflash Technologies. the huge river systems found in Prior to the trip, we sent out a test several of the China caves. package by UPS which contained We decided that there should be two twenty or so large flashbulbs. Within photo kits since the team would be five days, these had reached their caving in more than one region at a destination in China. It was possible time. Also, some redundancy was to track their progress on the internet. necessary should one kit be lost or Feeling confident, we carefully damaged. packaged up about 140 bulbs into two boxes. Plenty of bubble wrap was used and care was taken to maintain weight and package size restrictions. We even persuaded the girls from the Chinese medicine shop to write safety notices and label them as expedition equipment. These were sent by Parcel Force but never reached their final destination. The internet tracking service was not updated and later enquiries revealed that they had been held up at Chinese customs. Perhaps a commercial invoice would have eased their passage, or a more realistic value Pathfinder-Fox Kinetics Case stated for their worth. With a bit of

The YRC Bulletin 61 Summer 2001

The following kit list was drawn up: References: „Images Below‟, a book by Chris Howes SLR Kit1 „Flashgun Slaves for Flashbulbs‟ by David Large Waterproof box (with foam cut out Gibson CREG Journal 14 Dec 1993 lining) „An Improved Circuit for Firing Flashbulbs‟ Pentax P30 SLR by David Gibson CREG Journal 23 1996 Cable release „A Practical Flashbulb Firer‟ by Richard Tripod (JCW) Rushton CREG Journal 31 Mar 1998 58mm filter 80C „A High-Performance Flashgun Slave Unit‟ 3 x bulb firers (with manual fire option and by David Gibson Nov 98 (Modified hotfoot connection to Firefly IR slave units) May‟99) 3 x ES to AG1B adapters 3 x BS to ES adapter fitted with 5" reflectors The photographic development team 2 x small radios (BJB to finance) would like to thank the Yorkshire SLR Kit2 Ramblers‟ Club for its generous Large Waterproof box support. The photographic kit was Nikon SLR also significantly enhanced thanks to Cable Release (JCW) BJB can supply if contributions from a number of firms necessary that we approached. Tripod (JCW) 52mm filter 80C 3 x combined IR slave/bulb-firers (with manual fire option) Special thanks to: 3 x ES to AG1B adapters Peter Moss, Elys Photographic Equipment 3 x BS to ES adapter fitted with 5" reflectors Ltd, Studio Lighting, Units 11 and 12, Gun 2 x radios (AR to supply from USA) Barrel Centre, Hayseech Road, Cradley Heath, B64 75Z Tel: 0121 5856068 Bulbs Rachel Markham, Marketing Department, 250 x (PF60, PF100) clear and blue bulbs Jessops, Jessop House, Scudamore Road, (Selection to be sent by UPS) Leicester, LE3 1TZ. Tel: 0116 2326000 288 x AG1B bulbs (hand luggage) David Gibson, 12 Well House Drive, Leeds, Large Nalgene bottle (280mm high,150mm LS8 4BX Fax: 0870 1640389 diameter, 87mm diameter neck) bulb carrier [email protected] 4 x RALF units (Redundant Array of Little Richard Rushton Flashguns). Mimick flash bulb exposure) Nigel Jennings, Firefly Electronics, 10 Darran Street, Cardiff, CF24 4JF Tel: 029 Compact Kit 1 20340078 1 x 6 ltr „waterproof‟ bag Ben Lyon, Lyon 1 x sealable bottle (for fireflys) (140mm high, Pathfinder Fox Ltd, Clifton Technology Park, 75mm diameter, 53mm diameter neck) Wynne Avenue, Clifton,Manchester, M27 3 x Firefly IR Slave units (hotshoe connection 8FF. Tel: 0161 7948137 Fax: 0161 794 to flashgun) 0157 www.pathfinder-fox.co.uk 3 x Jessops (rotate,swivel) non-dedicated Meggaflash Technologies Ltd, Clonroad flashgun (280 ABZ) Business Park, Ennis, County Clare, Rep of Compact Kit 2 Ireland Tel +353 65 6828677 Fax +353 65 1 x 6 ltr „waterproof‟ bag 6822688 www.meggaflash.com 1 x sealable bottle (for fireflies) Useful Websites and Contacts: 3 x Firefly IR Slave units (hotshoe connection Cress Photo www.flashbulbs.com to flashgun) www.dhios.demon.co.uk/flashbulbs 1 x Jessops (rotate,swivel) non-dedicated flashgun (280 ABZ) Photography Development Team: 2 x Second hand flashguns (Zoom,swivel) Alister Renton, Misc Bruce Bensley, 2 x 8-battery NiCd, NiMH chargers Beldon Bensley, 24 AA NiCd batteries (6 flashguns x 4 Mike Pitt, batteries) Richard Sealey, 24 AA Spare batteries John Whalley.

The YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 2001

Evidence of Cave Occupation in orders for the day. We were to stand South-West China by to retrieve all equipment and await the return of the advance guard as the Tony Penny of the Wolverhampton lower river was in spate and therefore Caving Group too turbulent for further exploration. There is a reference In “British This gave John and me an unexpected Caving” (Cullingford) to a fissure at day‟s grace in which to examine and Caslemartyr in Count Cork, Ireland, photograph our surroundings. which yielded a human skeleton covered with gold plate. I lived tantalisingly close to this area in my teens and spent many hours wading through mud and slime hoping to repeat such a find, alas, to no avail. Not until descending the Great Doline of Dashiwie in South-West China many years on, did I find a man-made artifact used by cave dwellers. Our abseiling party of six, accompanied by various local hunters and Cherry, our interpreter, had split into two groups for speed and ease of movement. John Whalley and I were to be the support team encamped some 60m down the cliff face, in an old fossil cave set back in the rocks. The entrance to this cavern was guarded by lush vegetation, mostly bamboo and large ferns. During daylight hours there was very good visibility, due to the large classic entrance. From here the second Not far from our tent was a man-made descent rope was belayed and, having hollowed-out log about 1 metre long seen off the “shock troops”, we and 400mm in diameter containing lowered all necessary tackle bags, what looked like spent food pellets. hammocks, drills etc. to them. Night This log was positioned over a steep was just creeping in as we erected our drop and was obviously a drinking tent and set about gathering wood for trough for small animals, possibly the obligatory cooking fire, which chickens judging by the pellets within. soon expanded to a bonfire, It was fed with water by means of a accompanied by Chinese folk singing. split bamboo conduit and contained a This was a haunting and evocative drain bung for discharging spent series of dirges by one of the hunters liquid. Overlapping lengths of in our party, who had collected these bamboo were packed on stone wedges songs from village ancients in his and secured with creeper. I had seen spare time. such logs in front of a farm dwelling The crackling of the radio-phone at in Lingyun when looking for cave 6am the next morning outlined our entrances there, but I thought it very

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 2001 odd to come across one in such an inaccessible position. The Dashiwei Doline is remote from the nearest town and is approached on narrow tracks after steep climbs up from the valley and our own camp site was 55m from the rim.

The other surprise was discovering two straw baskets, in reasonable Further in to the 350 metre long cave, condition, nestling among the we noticed three large dry-stone boulders. The boulders themselves, walled circles, again fed by split which were considerable in number, bamboo conduits from the had been collected in giant spoil overflowing gour pools in the far heaps towards the centre of the cave, recesses of the cavern, these in turn leaving paths all around the walls. filling up from water dripping slowly The Chinese hunters in our party told off the roof. The construction of us about local guano gatherers who these dry-stone “butts”, each one used to climb down into the cave feeding the other, led us to speculate about 60 years ago by means of a tree that people had dwelled here in the which has subsequently decayed and cavern for long periods, possibly died. With the tree gone, they could using the series of interconnected no longer descend into the cave. It pools for drinking water, bathing, seems unlikely that, with the clothes washing etc. abundance of bamboo in the cave and the evident skills of the people in erecting wooden scaffolding, that the death of a tree would have stopped the occupation and collection of guano if used solely for the fertilisation of crops. The most likely explanation for this industry was nitrate production. Natural organic nitrates are still sometimes used in the manufacture of gunpowder and modern nitrate based explosives, and still mined today in many parts of the world for use in the manufacture of agricultural and

The YRC Bulletin 64 Summer 2001

Female quarry workers

horticultural fertilisers. The series of remote from daylight. Steps had been water butts could have been used for cut into the rock to facilitate access to the washing out of impurities in the a higher section of aven where, natural product. Limestone quarrying presumably, guano had also been was very much in evidence in this previously gathered, the log again area, used for road building and, in possibly serving as a water source for past years, as a flux in iron smelting, tethered chickens, one of the region‟s so gunpowder for blasting was an staple diets, accompanying working essential and constant requirement. I parties everywhere. expect that more modern means of Much further work remains to be producing TNT had caused the done to establish the exact reasons for decline in guano gathering from the fixtures that we found, the inaccessible caves. explanation given here seeming most Below is another example of a logical. Gold-plated skeletons they hollowed-out log fed by a split are not, but these structures added an bamboo conduit. This one was at the interesting adjunct to our main tasks top of a steep slope, embedded in the of cave hunting, surveying etc. rock and covered by a calcareous Needless to say, nothing was deposit. It was pointed out to us by disturbed or removed, the only things one of our Chinese companions whilst taken were the skilful photographs by surveying East Cave and in an area John Whalley.

The YRC Bulletin 65 Summer 2001

Acknowledgements The expedition wishes to thank the following for their help: The YRC Members Andy Eavis for his personal support Ghar Parau Foundation China Caves Projects Mount Everest Foundation National Geographic

Lyon Equipment

Safeway‟s Supermarkets Jessop‟s Photography Westmoreland Gazette Virtual Access, Skipton Express and Star University of Tasmania – School of Zoology Wolverhampton Metropolitan Borough Council Pathfinder Fox University of Leeds Stanley Brown Construction Company H.H. Plastics Bhogal Printing Company Ursus - Club Lyon Guangxi Normal University - Karst Institute of Guilin Chinese Ministry of Land and Resources.

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 2001

One Cave on Palawan is tidal. Entry is by boat across a resurgence pool which connects directly to the sea. The John Middleton entrance measures around 10m wide and 4m high with this and the first 100m of passageway A unique cave system and the longest in the showing impressive erosion features. From Philippines is to be found amongst the here, the streamway varies between 2m and spectacular tropical karst of northern 60m wide, and 5m to 50m high. Reasonable Palawan. A recent, but too brief, visit is formations are to be found throughout but, the summarised here. best, which really are exceptional, occur in the The Setting: Palawan is the westernmost Gypsum Galleries, an upper series of fossil island of the great Philippine archipelago. It is passageways situated about 3km in. Fourteen easily identified on any map by its unusual hundred metres past this point there is a shape, some 480km long and just 30km across, massive choke, “The Rockpile,” which and its northeast to southwest orientation. requires considerable exertion to pass. At this Carboniferous limestone, usually blackened by point, access is also gained to the extensive and algae and exhibiting impressive karst features, large Balingsasayow Galleries which include is to be found in many areas of the north. one chamber 250m long, 140m wide, and 70m Surprisingly, much of the region has had little high. After descending the Rockpile the investigation by speleologists. The largest of streamway continues straight-forwardly to its these areas is to be found within the Saint Paul’s 7km choked limit beyond which the “Daylight National Park which adjoins the west coast just Exit” can be seen almost 100m above. For above the village of Sabang. This massif covers much of the system’s final 2.5km a further around 30 sq.km. and reaches a maximum series of upper fossil passageways, known as elevation on Saint Paul’s peak of 1028m. Its the “Halo Halo” system, parallel the river. name originates from early sailors who likened A permit is needed to visit the cave and these its shape to that of the famous cathedral’s can currently be obtained at a small kiosk in the dome. The surface of the massif is virtually idyllic beach village of Sabang. It is either a impenetrable due to its hostile terrain of razor twenty-minute boat ride past superbly eroded edged pinnacles and karren, abrupt depressions sea cliffs to the cave or a ninety-minute walk and poljes, and forest. Vertical walls up to and scramble through forest. As a tourist, small 300m high surround most of the area whilst boats with a guide can be hired and these impressive fenglin (tower) karst rears up from normally visit the first 2km of cave. If they are the surrounding rice fields and out of the forest. not too busy then they can often be persuaded The Australians, who extended the already to go as far as the Rockpile (this was known Saint Paul’s Underground River Cave unfortunately the extent of my visit). To reach to 8km, initially carried out serious cave the upper “Daylight Entrance” it is necessary to exploration in the early 1980s. From 1986 until return to the village of Cabayugan, follow the 1992 expeditions by Italian cavers added a stream for around 1500m until it sinks beneath further 13km and also found several other messy boulders, and then scramble precariously caves. Only one of these exceeds one kilometre over these and through dense undergrowth until in length, this being the rather unpleasant Little the 60m by 30m chasm appears. Nearby the Underground River Cave at 1100m. The superbly striated 150m high walls of the massif potential for new discoveries is considerable but rise dramatically from the forest. access is a major problem. Our visit lasted just two full days, but had we St Paul’s Underground River Cave realised how beautiful and exciting the area was This 21km system deserves its unique status we could happily have been occupied much not only because it has a 7800m long main longer. river passageway but that the first 4400m of this

The YRC Bulletin 67 Summer 2001

Three Caves in Laos John Middleton A recent visit to Khammoun province revealed an incredible karst landscape honeycombed with enormous caverns and populated by colourful people. A brief summary of the area is given here with accounts of three classic caves visited, including one previously unreported. The Setting: Half way down the southern leg of Laos lies one of the world’s greatest and least explored regions of carboniferous limestone. It extends for Most areas close to the cliffs are roughly 200km by 30km and then protected by dense scrub or forest overlaps into Vietnam to form the whilst the tops of the massifs would renowned Quang Binh karst. The seem to be totally inaccessible. Cliff geomorphology is one of multiple climbs to the many gaping entrances karst massifs similar to the dense have rarely been made. Many of the fengcong (cone type) of China - often larger enclosed depressions resemble with seemingly unscalable walls over “lost worlds” harbouring virgin forest 500m high. The tops and edges are and a profusion of wildlife which riddled with fissures and pinnacles includes leopards, gibbons, parrots, and exhibit spectacular karren. etc. Wherever possible vegetation clings precariously and many unexplored Cave exploration has principally been fossil cave entrances can be seen carried out by Claude Mouret and tantalisingly out of reach. Interspersed other French speleologists who, up in and between the massifs are until 2000 had surveyed over 100km numerous dolines and poljes. To the of passageways. These discoveries west and south of the main massifs are still ongoing and reports are the fengcong karst has been eroded frequently made in the French caving still further to form attractive plains journals. One British team, under dotted with (almost) fenglin type Adrian Gregory, made modest towers. discoveries in 1996. So far there are some twenty caves known over a Access, albeit adventurous, is kilometre in length with almost all invariably difficult and time being characterised by rivers and consuming and often necessitates enormous passageways (30-40m river travel. To date, the majority of square not being uncommon). The cave discoveries have been those longest cave, and the major French found near to, or part of these rivers.

The YRC Bulletin 68 Summer 2001 objective for 2001, is an unfinished walk back over the mountain system of more than 23km. apparently takes a full day with a good guide so we returned, again Tham Nam Hinboun spellbound, through the incredible This amazing system of over 12400m Tham Nam Hinboun. A world classic in length and +80m in depth is to be indeed. found up the Hinboun river just past the riverside village of Ban Konglo. Tham Nathan The cave has been known to the This second through trip cave is to be villagers for many years and is used found not far from where the Pathen by them as an easier means of river emerges from its own crossing the mountains even though it spectacularly karstic valley. Access is involves an incredible 6300m again exciting with our 4x4 underground river traverse by boat! negotiating muddy dirt roads, through Recent French explorations have dense forest, past small rickety revealed a further 6km of large upper villages, and around scenic rice fields fossil passageways. until the very friendly village of Ban Just to reach the cave entrance is a Nathan is reached. It is just a twenty worthwhile adventure with this minutes walk from here to the 40m by commencing as a three hour long 4x4 30m wide cave entrance which dirt road to Ban Longphat (impassable suddenly materialises from the thick in the wet season). There then follows forest. The entrance chamber, around a three to four hour longboat ride to 80m long, then develops into a mighty Ban Phongheng through sensational canyonway rarely less than 30m wide karst scenery and here it is thankfully and 50m high for almost 1700m until, possible to stay at a small, idyllically after an 80m boulder climb, an exit situated guest house. Two further reveals the densely forested and hours upstream in a smaller boat lead sparsely populated Ban Boumlou to a 40m wide by 30m high cave depression. Villagers from Ban Boumlou who wish to sell their goods entrance mysteriously situated at the base of a steep forested cliff. The have first to trail through this forest next 6.3km through the cave almost for 4km, traverse the 1700m of cave defy description. The passageway is and then walk a further 8km to the never smaller than 6m high and 20m nearest small market! We had the wide with the entire 5km central amazing experience of meeting a section averaging 40m square villager half way through the cave including one substantial length up to carrying, balanced on a long shoulder 150m wide! In just three places the pole, two large loaded baskets narrow motorised longboat needs together with a lit bamboo flare and carrying over small rapids and at he still bounded over the rocks faster several points it is possible to get out than we could. This cave is not and walk on the shingle and silt described in any of the French banks. Giant Scutigermorth accounts so we must assume that our centipedes and equally large visit, amazingly, is the first to report Huntsmen spiders are common on the the cave. floors and walls. Formations are few. At this point the Pathen valley itself is The river emerges from the base of well worth a visit as not only is it another high cliff and then continues scenically stunning but it houses a past more superb karst scenery. The multitude of caves and a fascinating

The YRC Bulletin 69 Summer 2001 tin extraction plant with local panners whilst. at the exit, beneath a 200m working on the river sediment. high cliff, we looked down onto the tops of a sensationally beautiful forest Tham En within yet another enclosed and Not too far from the provincial capital uninhabited depression. The cave may of Thacket close to the road to have been barely 2km in length but Mahaxai is this fine Show Cave. We for me, at least, its finale was perhaps never actually saw any tourists but the the most memorable that I have impressive entranceway is electrically experienced in some forty years of lit for the first 150m of abandoned world wide caving! passageways found above the stream. The French had surveyed the rest of Our Trip: Our small team was the cave but it was because we simply composed of myself and my wife could not believe their survey, that Valerie and Tony Waltham (well this visit was made. Just 80m in from known to YRC members) and his the entrance progress is by swimming wife, Jan. During November 2000 for some 500m through deep but our visit extended from the Nam delightfully warm water beneath great Hinboun to the Se Bangfai rivers and caverns and past steep silt banks. As included many excursions up little, if the river finally becomes shallower a ever, visited valleys and into many beautiful shingle floored swirl type caves. It is intended to produce a full passage ensues to the base of a report for Cave Science. We planned massive boulder pile down which the trip ourselves but it became daylight streams. This issues from an obvious early on that assistance would entrance still some 260m away and be needed with the logistics of such 110m higher up. Before climbing an excursion where there was no skywards we found (possibly tourist infrastructure and little unrecorded) excellent examples of transport. The highly efficient tropical phytokarst on the top of Sodetour in Vientianne came to our several large blocks. The passage at aid and it is thanks to their help that the base of the boulder pile is roughly we managed to achieve so much in 150m wide and 30m high, this such a short time. gradually enlarges towards the entrance which then measures an astonishing 220m wide and 30m high!! Whilst climbing up the boulder pile hunters poles for the Swiftlet nests could be seen

The YRC Bulletin 70 Summer 2001

The Little-Known Bradford to assume that the iron ladder was placed on Sunday 30 August 1885. Caving Community a Century This was Cuthbert Hastings’ first Ago: Why Did It Remain Aloof From caving trip. He was elected to the the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club? YRC in 1900, and retained his S.A. Craven. membership until he died in 1943. In the days of the late Queen Victoria, Geoffrey Hastings was elected to a three-year membership of the YRC in before radio and television had been 7 invented, people had to amuse 1894 , and became well-known as an themselves. This was the heyday of Alpinist. Ecroyd disappeared from the the amateur learned societies which caving scene; by marriage he was related to William Cecil Slingsby of thrived in every northern industrial 8 town. Bradford was no exception and the YRC . boasted, inter alia, the Bradford This period also was the beginning of Scientific Association founded in the outdoor movement which reached 18751, the Bradford Naturalists’ great popularity between the First and Society2, the Bradford Natural History Second World Wars. Most of the and Microscopical Society3 and the northern industrial towns and cities Bradford Historical and Antiquarian had their rambling clubs whose Society4. members were content to walk and The first Bradfordians to explore climb established routes. The larger caves were probably the Hastings cities also supported clubs which were brothers, Geoffrey and Cuthbert, and more active in the sense that the William Ecroyd. One Saturday in members pioneered new routes, and August 1885, Ecroyd and Geoffrey & published journals which recorded Cuthbert Hastings met at Melling their activities. Bradford never had a Station with an iron ladder, a rope club comparable to the Yorkshire ladder to facilitate the descent into Ramblers’ Club of Leeds, the Gavel Pot, and other equipment. Rucksack Club of Manchester, the Hastings’ father was a woollen Wayfarers Club of Liverpool and the manufacturer in Bradford. Ecroyd’s Kyndwr Club of Sheffield. The father had an office in that city; and nearest that city came to such a club this may explain how the three men was the Straddlebugs about which became associated. The following day very little is known because it they used the iron ladder to scale the published no journal and did not waterfall pitch without incident, feature in the newspapers. continued upstream until the passage The members of the Bradford became uncomfortably narrow, then Scientific Association visited returned leaving the ladder in place. Elbolton Cave on 14 June 1890, the They got to within a few metres of object of the exercise being to inspect Short Drop Cave - but did not realise the archaeological excavations which this until many years later5. were being conducted by the Rev. E. Jones9. Having contributed £5 to the The Hastings brothers were also 10 rowing men, and competed Reverend’s expenses , the members successfully in the Bradford Amateur no doubt wished to ensure that their Rowing Club’s third annual regatta on money was well spent. 22 August6. Assuming that they were Bradford may not have had a club, but training for the event, it is reasonable it did have an informal group of friends who did some technically

The YRC Bulletin 71 Summer 2000 involved cave exploration. Their Dawson and friends were technically leader was Harold Dawson; assisted better equipped than the YRC. in that by his brother-in-law William they used flexible wire rope ladders. Townend; Charles H. Wood, the They descended Alum Pot at least five Bradford City Gas Engineer; John E. times in the late 1890s, and may have Wilson, the local Secretary of the descended Hunt Pot in 1897 and Yorkshire Geological and Polytechnic Gaping Gill at about the same time. Society; and Robert Fieldhouse One of their photographs came into Dawson, a monumental mason. Wood the possession of the YRC, this being and Wilson married sisters of William their only and tenuous connection Harbutt Dawson of “History of with the Club11. Skipton” fame. There is no evidence Charles Wood also caved with the to suggest that these three Dawson members of the Bradford Scientific families were related. Association in 1898 et seq., suggesting that the Dawson quintet had ceased activity. On 09 July 1898 Wood led 30 – 40 members of the Association to Gatekirk and Great Douk Caves, travelling by the 1253 train to Ribblehead, and returning to Bradford about 2300 hours the same day12. Members visited Hurtle Pot, Jingle Pot, Weathercote Cave, Bruntscar Cave and Gatekirk Cave on 14 July 190013. By 1901 Wood had “personally explored a large number of caves and potholes in the district”14, and on 13 July that year explored Capnut Cave for an exaggerated half mile15. At that time Cuthbert Hastings, John Wilson and Charles Wood held high offices in the Association16. The syllabi of the Bradford Scientific Association record only four cave meets between 1897 (the first) and 1905, the next being on 22 June 1925 to Settle, when at a joint meet with members of the Bradford Historical and Antiquarian Society, a “Mr. Simpson” took the party to Victoria Cave for archaeological purposes17. This may or may not have been Eli Simpson of British Speleological Association fame. At that time he was poultry farming near Ripon and not Fig. 1. Robert Fieldhouse Dawson; known to be involved with caves. photographer unknown.

The YRC Bulletin 72 Summer 2000

Fig. 2. “Cave Hunters” [near Ribblehead] 13 July 1901” photo by W.J.P. from the archives of the Bradford Scientific Association

The Hastings brothers descended Scientific Society” on “Yorkshire Alum Pot in 189318. In April 1911 Caves and Potholes”, and mentioned Cuthbert collected cave spiders from the activities of the YRC in Scosca Kelcow Caves, Kingsdale and Cave, Rowten Pot and Gaping Gill20. Chapel-le-Dale19. On 7 November In 1926 he again lectured, this time on 1908 he lectured the “Bradford Alum Pot21.

Fig. 3. “Ribblehead Caves 13 July 1901” photo by E.H. from the archives of the Bradford Scientific Association

The YRC Bulletin 73 Summer 2000

Fig. 4. “Ribblehead Caves 13 July 1901” photo by E.H. from the archives of the Bradford Scientific Association.

By the turn of the nineteenth century In 1902 the YRC boasted 66 ordinary the members of the Bradford members26 with a further 24 during Scientific Association seemed to have the next nine years27. Of these only declining interest in cave meets. On six (i.e. 6·7%) gave Bradford 15 July 1905 they met at addresses even though that city is only Ingleborough, but no cave exploration 16 km. away from Leeds with good was done22. In late 1917 Blackburn railway connections. Members were Holden II of the YRC lectured on elected from other Yorkshire towns, “Caves and Potholes in Yorkshire”23. and from elsewhere as far away as London. Discussion It is clear from the above somewhat There is no indication in the available disjointed record that some evidence why those Bradford residents who had the necessary Bradfordians with appropriate backgrounds were well aware of the intellect and financial resources did existence of the YRC and of the caves not either form a club similar in scope and potholes under the northern to the YRC, or join the YRC. They Pennines. Yet with few exceptions were well aware, both from their they were not attracted to the YRC scientific society lectures and field meets, and from the Bradford and did not take the trouble to 28 organise a club until 1922 when the newspapers , of the existence of the Gritstone Club was founded24 with YRC. Does any member have any Cuthbert Hastings a prominent and ideas on the subject? enthusiastic member25.

The YRC Bulletin 74 Summer 2000

Notes and References 15 Bradford Scientific Association

1 Excursions Handbook. Maltby H.J.M. & Winter W.P. (1925) 16 Fifty Years of Local Science 1875 – Maltby H.J.M. & Winter W.P. (1925) 1925 (Bradford). Fifty Years of Local Science 1875 – Robson R. (1975) Science at a 1925 pp. 32 – 33 (Bradford).

Popular Level The Dalesman 37. (7), 17 Yorkshire Observer (1925) 22 June 542 – 543. p.12. Syllabi in the Bradford Reference 18 MS note in Eli Simpson’s Yorkshire Library. Records Folder 31 (Matlock: British 2 Syllabi in the Bradford Reference Cave Research Association Library).

Library. 19 Winter W.P. (1911) Bradford 3 Syllabi in the Bradford Reference Scientific Journal 3. 225 – 231. Library. H(astings) C. (1911) Speleo-

4 Syllabi in the Bradford Reference entomology Journal of the Yorkshire Library. Ramblers’ Club 3. (11), 298 – 299.

20 5 Hastings C. (1926) Gavel Pot in 1885 Yorkshire Observer (1908) 07 Nov. Journal of the Gritstone Club 3. (1), p.10.

reprinted (1930) Journal of the Yorkshire 21 Yorkshire Observer (1926) 27 Mar. Ramblers’ Club 6. 60 - 62. p.14. 6 Bradford Observer Budget 19 Aug. 1885 22 p. 6. Yorkshire Daily Observer (1905) 17 July p. 7.

7 Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club 23 Yorkshire Observer (1917) 03 Nov. p7

Membership 1892 – 1992, 22 pp. 24 (Porter E.A.) (1922) Journal of the (unpublished). Gritstone Club 1. (1), 1 - 3, 14 reprinted

8 Letters d. 31 May & 20 June 1972 (1972) Journal of the Gritstone Club (n.s.) (4), 29 - 30. from T.M. Farrer to S.A. Craven. Stansfeld J. (1885) History of the 25 [Obituary] Cuthbert Hastings Journal Family Stansfeld of Stansfeld in the of the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club Parish of Halifax, and its numerous (1947) 7. 162 – 163.

branches p. 298 (Leeds: Goodall & 26 Journal of the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Suddick). Club 1. viii – xi. Yorkshire Post (1929) 02 Sep. p. 6. 27 9 Journal of the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Craven Herald (1890) 20 June p. 2. Club 2. 70, 172, 248, 326, 3. 103, 214, Leeds Mercury Weekly Supplement 325.

21 June p. 5. 28 Bradford Observer 10 Craven Herald (1890) 19 Sep. p. 4. (1895) 17 Sep. 11 For a full account of Messrs. Dawson (1896) 14 May p5. and friends, see Craven S.A. (1976) 30 May p6. Messrs. Harold Dawson & Co. – 17 Sep. Pioneer Potholers Journal of the (1897) 10 July p7. Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club 11. (37), 170 – 172. The photographs in this article are

12 Bradford Observer (1898) 12 July p.6. reproduced by kind permission of the Leeds Mercury Weekly Supplement West Yorkshire Archive Service’s (1898) 16 July p. 5. Bradford office.

13 Bradford Observer (1900) 16 July p.7.

14 Bradford Observer (1901) 16 July p.7.

The YRC Bulletin 75 Summer 2000

Fantan B Adrian Bridge

Climbed 28th August 2000 with Tim Josephy

3 - My stance (above) was on a prow above 100m of concave rock down to the sea – quite an exciting spot

2 - Through these two sections it got steeper and switched to more of an upward line, thankfully with some protection worth the name. Towards the end of pitch three the guano reached its maximum depth. Surprisingly it was not slippery when dry.

1 - The early stages: about eighty feet above the sea level after a traverse with pathetic protection from the start of the route. Feeling rather nervous here in case it continues in the same vein.

The YRC Bulletin 76 Summer 2001

4 - Pitch four was over a small overhang and onto the beginnings of suspect loose rock and steep grass – a little worrying.

5 - Tim’s satisfied stare and the thought that “we can go and get a wash now!”

6 - Just after that last snap we were picking our way up steep grass and loose rock, still roped together, and saw a goat running down where we’d picked our way up. It disappeared from our view – presumably not into the water. Not a route to do again but still quite an adventure. After a cuppa, we went to Tremadoc and climbed Meshach in amongst loads of folk – there were none to be seen on Fantan B.

Adrian’s year 2000 routes in North Wales shared with friends – all good, some superb! Super Direct Milestone Buttress Cemetary Gates Cromlech Wall Climb Bochlyd Super Direct Dinas Mot Gollum (½ of) Dinas Mot Bluebell Babylon Cwm Cowarch Pentathol Gogarth Diagonal Dinas Mot Scavenger Gogarth Spectre Grochan Brant Direct Grochan The Strand Gogarth Fantan B Lleyn Blanco Gogarth Meshach Tremadoc

The YRC Bulletin 77 Summer 2001

Gondogoro La, hanging glaciers twinkled in the sun between intermittent Karakoram cloud cover. As we started to Martyn descend, the pilot was banking between the much higher Wakeman surrounding mountains and These excerpts from the full flying over ridge crests and account on Martyn‟s lines to find a way through website give a flavour of this maze of rock towards a this recent Himalayan 19483ftm 5940m Kingdoms ten-person trek. flat patch of land near Skardu. Karakoram, Pakistan At times, ridges were only Arrival 5-29 August 2000 1000 feet below us and could Getting off the plane be seen in far too much detail was like walking into a Kew Gardens‟ given the possibility of wind shear. tropical greenhouse - a wave of hot We dropped from a col (remember and humid air. We fought for our this is a commercial airline flight not bags amidst a swathe of Pakistani a climbing day) into a bowl with the faces and a Spanish mountaineering huge meandering river Indus, also in team. Strangely, they x-rayed our brown, below. Huge walls of rubbly bags before letting us into the country, mountains boxed in the landing strip but passport and visa checks were which could only be seen at the last uneventful. Pushing trolleys laden minute. The tarmac started at the high with gear, we were greeted by an edge of the Indus flood plane and was almost overpowering sea of faces surrounded by sand dunes and more straining over the barrier. rubble. Our sirdar, Ali, met us at the airport. To the Baltoro He seemed respectful and organised and indeed had faked all of our This was the dry, hot, dusty trek, a signatures to get our trekking permits bleak approach through the „lower‟ early from the ministry of tourism and hills (many over 5000m) and up the saving us their standard lecture. Our side of the river carrying melt from hotel door was guarded by a guy, with the main Karakorum glaciers. A a dark brown and orange streaked monochrome world in subtle shades beard, holding a Kalashnikov. of brown. Transport out The next morning I was stricken with a stomach bug and endured seven The Karakorum highway was blocked hours walking on an empty stomach. due to recent heavy rain. Apparently, Feeling a little delicate, we started on a lightning strike had weakened a our way to Korophon following the whole hillside causing an internal riverbank. Gentle rain for the first collapse. The army were clearing it, half of the morning was cooling, but more kept tumbling down. We refreshing and much more amenable had a one-way air ticket for Skardu - to my stomach than sweating at 40ºC. Islamabad ready for the return leg so We reached a little village, a rambling we decided to exchange this for a array of stone and mud huts with flight out to avoid wasting time. The wood and straw roofs, looking pretty old 737 took us past Nanga Parbat on soggy in the rain. The ground was our right, and mountains steeper and boggy and the whole place had a loftier than the Alps on our left. High pretty ripe smell about it. Women

The YRC Bulletin 78 Summer 2001 were working fully covered in and almost unfair. Normally I like to traditional dress. There was no glass survive under my own steam and in the windows and the only sign of initiative in the mountains. Here modern civilisation were trekkers‟ though it is the only reasonable way sweet wrappers. we can make any progress at all. Continuing we reached a bridge Two goats arrived and started perched across two huge boulders. nibbling the rosemary plants. They Steel cords held wooden planking in were not for milk but our dinner. For place and for a home brew affair it the moment though they looked happy was reasonably stable. Porters were just eating away. sheltering in a rough building on the After a dose of Imodium and a night other side. By this stage I was feeling of alternating high body temperature, a little better as we continued across a with legs glowing red hot, and then vast rubble plain comprising the old cold periods buried deep inside my terminal moraine of the Biafo glacier. sleeping bag I awoke knowing I had After 6½ hours of walking we arrived to eat to carry on. I managed one at the end of the Biafo glacier where bowl of porridge having been purged we used the melt stream as drinking of whatever was swimming around. water. Biscuits and tea were laid out Half a Neurofin tablet later we were ready. The campsite was by a small off. military camp and photographs in that There were three notable sections direction were not permitted. Steep while walking generally alongside the rocky mountains surrounding our river that day sometimes traversing camp rose high above us with very loose steep ground. At the first, occasional glimpses of yet higher a rocky river bank traverse, locals mountains beyond through the clouds. were looking for a shepherd fallen The porter who carried my sac was into the river somewhere upstream probably fired that day as he was over while taking a short cut. Another an hour later than us feeble westerners particularly fine section was a traverse and way behind his mates. All this high up a cliff along a path blasted carrying of our stuff and having food from the rock: steep, narrow, and prepared for us seems a little strange, exposed making a good change from the flat paths. After that we crossed another suspension bridge with wooden planks near the bank thinning to round logs in the middle. The bridge twisted and flexed as we crossed singly. Of course the porters crossed together. Lunch followed shortly afterwards at a place called Jola

The YRC Bulletin 79 Summer 2001

Camp and was most welcome, minutes when the filter was clean) especially the hygienically packaged due to the silt in the water starting to French „belle vache‟ cheese and clog up the works so I was late for crackers. Then tinned sardines came breakfast. This did prove to be a wise out. I ate far too much and was slow move, because the water at this „new‟ walking for about thirty minutes but campsite caused stomach cramps with picked up when the sugars made it to several of the others and also some of my bloodstream. the porters. Chris said that suspended mica particles strip the lining off the Skumbosok, our original campsite for gut wall as microscopically they are that night had been washed away. very sharp. Despite being a little The new camping location was much heavy, the filter was worth its weight nicer apart from the cloudy water in gold. which, when left to settle, formed a mud layer at the bottom. What would We continued to follow the river, but Nestlé say if they knew what with yet bigger mountains growing happened to their bottles? beyond the monotone „brown‟ rubble piles and rocky peaks - some with Dinner was good that night, roast apparently good rock. The stream potatoes together with rice and dhal; crossing described fearsomely in the must have been something to do with trek guide was a little tame: just a eating on full form again. quick leap across. Four hours after The next day was to take us from our leaving, we arrived at Paiju to camp wild camp area to Paiju. I had for the night. Here the Masherbrum awoken slightly before the alarm and range was first glimpsed as an had only had a mild temperature that unearthly white monster through the night. Four slices of toast made a clouds, tantalisingly close to fully sound breakfast. Filtering the water revealing itself, big and white, clothed took twenty minutes (maybe 3 to 5 in seracs and shinning in the sun.

The YRC Bulletin 80 Summer 2001

From the campsite the first few peaks Up the Baltoro to Concordia of the Trango range peered around the The Baltoro glacier is one of the corner as high granite spires, watch wonders of the Karakorum, 58km towers guarding the entrance to the long and meeting two other glaciers at Baltoro glacier and then the throne its higher end to create the largest room of the mountain gods. concentration of ice outside the polar Anticipation grew as we approached regions. We were to walk along its the big monsters. The Trango towers whole length. From alpine experience put familiar Chamonix in its place. this might be imagined as a dirty, What will be really impressive is to stony tongue merging into a dry but reach an altitude where, gasping for white glacier that becomes snowy and breath, the mountains still rise above wet as the higher part was reached. me. Not here, as two continental plates are We named the goats that evening, and in full-blown head-on collision and rumours spread about when they nature is still building this wonder as the glaciers try to clean up and move would meet their demise. Pinky and Perky were eating long wet grass, a some of the building materials away. stark contrast to the rock and rubble We left Paiju to start a longer day. It of the landscape, just below our tents. would take us out of the dry dusty Upon discovering that Jo also did not heat of the river valley to the start of have glacier glasses, we suggested the mighty Baltoro glacier. Leaving that he: cut holes in cardboard for a the smell of the campsite behind, we „pin-hole‟ camera effect; made a knew that today would see the start of goat‟s stomach water bottle; and goat the real mountains. As we skin gloves. His laissez-faire attitude approached the glacier snout, I tried to was irritating to those who‟d saved, take a photograph. Even some trained and planned this for ages. distance away, and with a 28mm lens, it was difficult to fit it all in the frame.

The YRC Bulletin 81 Summer 2001

Here, as John called it, the arse of the lake but this broke out one night to Baltoro could be found, where the leave one side of the Baltoro partially glacier melt water accumulated and exposed adjacent to the lateral ran into the river, forming its source. moraine. The Baltoro seemed to We were all photographing the snout move continuously, a latent dragon when a group member (I wonder who) snoring in the night, as rocks perched realised that he‟d left his water bottle on its scaly icy back periodically fell behind about thirty minutes away. He with mighty crashes. Far bigger was dispatched back with a porter to boulders than these were perched on retrieve it and finally caught us up the edge and some looked house- again as we ate lunch, more cheese sized. The first of these tumbling off and pasta, at Lillige. This used to be a caused several of us to leap up from main camp area until being eaten by our lunch cloth spread across the the mighty Baltoro. ground and scatter away from the cliffs. These cliffs were a melange of The Baltoro was like nothing I had boulders and mud and looked as ever seen before, distinct from both though they really could fall on our Iceland and the Alps. Rather than heads with a shout from a mountain being snow covered or even rambling god. So the noise of the glacier rocks dry white-grey ice, it is a tangled mass falling echoed straight back from the of ice with smashed rock and van- mud-rock cliff with such effect that I sized boulders. Not a smooth surface imagined a stream of rock descending or even distinct icefall steps, but a towards our lunch cloth. Our leap for contorted confused surface of hillocks safety gave the porters a quick laugh. and ridges. There was a layer of fine We continued on our way along the dirt that was generally dry, but moraine towards Khoburtse. Our path difficult to walk on away from the crossed the Lilige Glacier that narrow path. From a distance these previously had been a separate entity, hillocks look small but were actually but in the last few years has moved quite large and people were lost forward half a mile to merge with the between them. Baltoro. Our lunch spot that day was most This was one of the better campsites spectacular. Having rounded the so far. Perched on the edge of the corner to see Payu Peak (6621m), glacier with the tents in a line on a which is a whole area of granite small ridge with the mess tent below. mountains culminating in a sharp There was not the usual turd littering snowy cone, we could see the glorious here making it a much nicer place. A Trango Towers: watchtowers should glacier pool of aquamarine blue water the mountain gods need to check the set amidst the moraine made for a visitors treading towards Concordia. refreshing wash amidst dirt covered The slabs of granite stretch up 2300m stones. Cleaning the nether regions above the glacier (3842m) as if a proved most invigorating. The cathedral wall. Great Trango, Trango previous camp area had a small tower and the isolated block of the waterfall where I had washed from my Nameless Tower. Impressive as fluted hair the dust from the jeep ride. Not and rough carved sides stretched up such a nice experience due to my continuously to the tops. The glacier knowing that the water was at Lilige, where we were resting for contaminated with undesirables, lunch, used to close in a large glacial smelling dodgy even though running

The YRC Bulletin 82 Summer 2001 clear. After the wash, we ate tinned good. This was not the case for all. corned beef, potatoes mashed with Marc and myself, amidst the porters, cheese and the local green vegetable, were first to reach the shelves dug okra. many years before by the Duke of Abruzzi‟s men. Again, from a new That evening the clouds cleared and perspective, excellent views were had the whole range of mountains on the of the Trango massif and Cathedral north side of the Baltoro were lit by peak beyond it further up the glacier. moonlight, the rock glowing slightly as it reflected a soft light. A We had seen a peak gleaming high darkening blue-black sky framed this, above us with fluted snow slopes with a sprinkling of stars as the icing (fluted being where, due to the to the spectacle. Surprising amounts amount of snow, vertical snow crests of depth could be seen in the run down the face of what in the alps mountain features, with shadow and would be a plain snow bank) and light depending on the angle to the tumbling serac bands. This was moon. Paju was free of cloud for the nearly the same height as the first time. I sat atop a large rock for Gondogora La and showed that what more than an hour just soaking up this we were intending to do was indeed a spectacle. In our modern lives we worthy challenge. rarely free up time just to stand and We had arrived at 10am, so it was stare. Here was something simple, yet effectively a rest day. Following the utterly complex and unique, captured rules of acclimatisation, the following in space and time; simple and day was also to be based at Urdukas. unchanged, yet so majestic and No more than 300m average height beautiful that surely if God himself gain per day and a rest day after seems unknown, then this shouted the 1000m cumulative altitude increase, name of the great sculptor, here starting at 2500m. This is distinct reaching extravagant proportions in from climbing in the Alps where His master piece of the Karakorum. acclimatisation to higher heights is Surely, how great Thou art! accompanied by sleeping low. At that I went to bed with eager anticipation time I felt as acclimatised as when I‟d of the days to come. With a bounce bivied outside the Gouter hut (3800m) now in my step, the Gondogora La prior to climbing Blancy. I‟d gained was now a tantalising prospect and this conditioning in a similar time my engines were ready for battle. frame but with less physical stress and here we were approaching the roof of The next day we were „permitted‟ an the world. extra half-hour in bed followed by a second luxury, French toast, Below Urdukas campsite was one of comprising bread fried in milk and several Pakistani army camps that we egg with a little sugar. Most ate two had passed. They seem to be slices, while I managed five, eating maintaining a highly tenuous MSR to while the going was good. Feeling on the front line of the conflict between form, we made it at porter pace (2½ Pakistan and India on the Siachen hours compared with an estimated 4) glacier. Soldiers spend six months at to Urdukas at 4015m. Quatre mille 6000m in the disputed zone where metre at last. This was to be my more die of altitude sickness and highest camp yet I was already avalanches than bullets. The soldiers acclimatised to that height and feeling have to walk up to acclimatise but

The YRC Bulletin 83 Summer 2001 over sixty are packed into one They had chosen to take the labouring helicopter for the flight Karakorum highway, taking them four back. We had been following a days to cover the ground that was just telephone line for days, and together a hairy flight for us. Two had already with these bridges, made for what dropped out leaving two dozen. They indeed seemed a tenuous supply line. have been marching double days to Perhaps this route up the Baltoro is catch up. We all hoped that we would taken due to the natural shelter offered not end up crossing the La on the by the huge mountains each side, same day. located well inside the Pakistan After dinner, as we were sitting in the border. It seemed that a suitably mess tent and chewing the cud, an equipped force of elite soldiers could almighty thundering crash instantly play havoc with the helicopters and terminated all conversation, seeing us camps - war is a crazy game. dive out of the tent and looking up. While I was initially reluctant to have One of the giant seracs at the end of a a rest day at Urdukas, having arrived small glacier above our general camp at early the day before, and would area had broken off and was smashing have preferred to go on, it benefited its way down the stream gully that the group as a whole and would was our water supply (thankfully a increase the chance of us all getting few minutes walk way). A white over the Gondogora La. After a later tongue could be seen in the moonlight breakfast, I helped train the advancing down the gully. Stones inexperienced in moving up and down were then dislodged and, smashing a fixed rope. Here three turns of a into others, gave off giant sparks. French prussik seemed to work best. Bed tea with a call at 5:30am as usual; After an excellent lunch including some kind of throw back to the vegetable samosas, Marc and John set colonial days. Starting out along the up an abseil rope off of a rock. glacier, we passed a porters graveyard Crevasse rescue practice with four with coloured flags of cloth and turns of a French prussik gave all emaciated horses owned and abused except Steve (who had done it before) by the Pakistan army as beasts of a refresher on self-extraction from icy burden. The views again were jaws should the unexpected happen. amazing, with a clear blue sky. Masherbrum unfolded to our right, a Later in the evening a tribe of Spanish heavily snow featured peak as would climbers arrived also crossing the La. be expected of 8000m mountains and a joy to behold after the lightly snow dusted granite towers lower down the glacier. Continuing on, another Pakistan army base smelled of the preverbal as donkeys carried fuel cans on sore-covered backs. Forming a wall terminating the east- west path of the Baltoro was the towering truncated triangle of Gasherbrum IV and its sisters. This formed a strange but very convincing optical illusion. The glacier from our

The YRC Bulletin 84 Summer 2001 feet leading to Concordia appeared to Vigne glacier. As we rounded the be running downhill, whereas in fact corner, fleeting glimpses through the it is uphill all the way. Mitre peak, at cloud revealed the Gasherbrums. We 6000m, also did not look much lower crossed several glacier melt streams than the 8000m Gasherbrum and and smeared on sun cream as the Broad Peak ranges immediately snow fall lapsed and a hazed sun behind. The thin clean air gave started to burn off the cloud in places. fantastic clarity. The significance of The walk to Ali camp (5100m) was at the endless 4km high wall of a vigorous pace because everyone was mountains reaching above and around fresh after the rest day. We made this us could only be felt when breathing in four hours which I thought was the already thin air at faster than necessary at this 4000m, with mountains still stage. rising the height of the Alps Jumping some smaller above. crevasses, Ali camp was After a night where John had reached - a couple of some Cheyne Stokes platforms on the moraine breathing, we started the under some block granite final days walk that would cliffs. The Spanish porters take us to Concordia. John had “beach towelled” most also managed, with great of the space for their three pride, his first normal shit mess tents, although we since arriving in Pakistan. did have a spot for our Many photographs have mess and cooks tents. We been taken of the Muztag had overtaken the Spanish Tower through the last who were generally less decades (Muztag meaning well prepared, less fit and „Mountain‟ in Balti) and as less acclimatised. Our we walked past this smaller group made us imposing mountain we also more flexible. The stopped to wind some film surroundings at Ali Camp through our own cameras. were more what I had Winding its own way over expected in terms of the glacier, the path took us glacier scenery. We were towards Mitre peak, now surround by a huge cirque incredibly foreshortened and of white snow-runnelled a local Matterhorn. cliffs, impressively sharp and steep. We approached the throne room of The glacier just below us was white, the mountain gods. revealing some, but not all, of its crevasses. We were in a wild and To Ali camp and the casino lonely place. We left after lunch, an hour after the Ali decided that we were going to Spanish, with a leaden grey sky cross the Gondogora La come what threatening to dump more snow on us. may that night. The limited space at It had the feeling of a Scottish winters camp meant we all had to sleep and day as snowflakes started to fall and eat in the mess tent. After first sorting we walked across a now white giant our gear and packing for the next day, moraine and boulder field towards the the duffle sacs were stowed at the end

The YRC Bulletin 85 Summer 2001 of the mess tent where I was going to this harsh area. Apparently it should sleep. While initially a disadvantage, have been at Ali camp that night, but where snow and wind could wriggle we missed it as on all the other nights their icy fingers into my sleeping bag, when we were supposed to find it. the wall of duffle bags both sheltered It was then about 8pm so we had me and offered more personal space. hours to wait, or possibly sleep, until The mess tent was not particularly our 12:45 alarm call and the start of large, and we all wedged into an the big day. Some slept a little, while uphill line of 6 people and 4 others others tossed and turned, jammed making do with their heads on between others. The weak bladdered rucksacks and feet uphill on the other made trips to the toilet. side. Camping on the glacier itself On crossing the Gondogora La might have solved the space problem that necessitated all sleeping together. The wake up alarm sounded and it Colder perhaps, but that had not been was time to pack the sleeping gear, a real problem thus far. We dozed the drink tea, eat porridge and put on late afternoon away trying to store up clothing. Some could not eat or drink energy for the big day. I tried really anything or only a little, probably due hard to rest and managed some sleep to the altitude and the fact that it was to get ready for our planned 2am start. the middle of the night. I just managed one bowl of porridge but the Fortunately, I did not seem to have all important hydration procedure was any symptoms of high altitude except via three mugs of green tea. Ice lined rapid breathing and a fast pulse due to the inside of the tent. the thin air despite sleeping higher than Mt Blanc. I was a little The Spanish had agreed to leave at concerned about my rapid breathing. midnight, but were still annoyingly messing around at 2am. The Dinner was served just a little after separation of the two groups was dark with us all snuggled into our planned for both aesthetic and safety sleeping bags as yet more snow fell reasons. Several dark comments were ominously outside. By Petzel head passed about the Spaniards. torch beams cutting rising steam we ate platters of rice, hot soup, curried The morning was perfectly clear and goat and soggy pasta to refuel muscles fresh (-8.6 °C) with a star studded for the day, or night, ahead. After sky. Everything was nicely frozen in eating I went to find a boulder in the place and the moon reflected off the allocated area to avoid the urge of snowy basin and surrounding ice falls untucking nether regions and fiddling leading to steep, fluted, snow faces with my harness while half way up the leading to corniced ridges. This was pass. I took Imodium prophylatically, more like it: whiteness rather than the as often practised by Himalayan boulder and scree of Concordia. climbers, to ensure that the urge could After standing in the cold for about 20 be banished for the following day. minutes waiting for the porters to Why Ali camp and the casino? Well, pack, we were off. While we were a travelling casino is well known to carrying only the essentials and move randomly around this region of wearing often the best of high-tech Pakistan and our local guide had gear, the porters were carrying all the intimate knowledge of its delights in camp gear and our duffel bags while

The YRC Bulletin 86 Summer 2001 wearing minimal clothing (often foreshortened and it could not be as traditional Pakistani dress, a blanket hard as it looked. Midway across the under the „rucksack‟ rope straps and a upper Vigne Glacier we could see a piece of clothing that a previous line of porters ascending a different climber had left behind. Footwear and easier looking snow ramp to the was not plastic boots and Yeti gaiters left of the imagined way over giving a with crampons, but plastic moulded sense of relief, especially to those tennis shoes with two pairs of socks! without snow experience. Today was These guys did indeed work hard for going to blow their minds. little money (by western standards As we reached the first fixed rope, we £1.50 a day) and they were doing all had caught up the Spanish group that they could to help us. making very slow progress. Marc I, We started off along the moraine and accelerated past the line of struggling continued for about an hour, by which Spanish. Previous to this we had been time we had split into two groups, encouraging the inexperienced front with John having an altitude group of our party through the first headache, Jo plodding along in challenges of this snowy giant. We second gear and Steve staggering would take forty paces and then stop along trying not to loose his balance. to breathe, or for Denis, gasp, for air Marc and I guided the others onto the as he fought off nausea and a glacier and along the path across the headache. Alan was also struggling a ice and snow of the upper Vigne little at this point. Glacier. Here a rope was really Marc took to the fresh snow at the needed as we jumped across several edge of the fixed rope and kicked crevasses and avoided putting our feet steps until he had overtaken half the into others but the rope was back with Spanish party. I followed, kicking a the other half of the party just when few more steps until I had a clear path we needed it. All the Spanish, plus ahead and rejoined the fixed rope. both their and our porters, had just The top of this first rope was at 50º taken the very same line, so either the and culminated with the edge of a crevasse bridges were tried and tested large crevasse. Just before this, one or fatally weakened by all the traffic. of the porters from the Spanish party We crossed without problems and was having an epic and on the verge attached crampons, with considerable of rolling and then bouncing back faffing from some in the group, before down the fixed rope to the glacier gaining the start of the steep snow. below. Two people held him while he Earlier on, while still on the moraine, rested, adjusted his load and regained Ali had pointed out the Gondogora La his footing. Climbing 50º snow with to Chris who had then described it to a 30kg load in trainers never was us. A case of Chinese whispers, going to be easy for these guys. because the snow and glacial ramp The crevasse was 4m wide, with the leading to the ridge line between the way across requiring either „two bright stars‟ was steep and Abraham‟s faith or tip-toeing across a imposing. I compared it to various bridge made from two long wooden Alpine glacial routes, like the North poles lashed to cross poles with old face of the Barre des Ecrins that I had rope and also needing perhaps the climbed two years earlier, and decided faith of Abraham. A safety line was that the very steep top section must be also provided which Marc and I

The YRC Bulletin 87 Summer 2001 pulled tight and hooked our ice axes other porters had descended already. over in case of a slip, snagging of The celebratory Toblerone, carried all crampon points, or the whole lot the way from Switzerland, was collapsing into this chasm of unwrapped, photographed on top of unknown depth. My eyes and brain Marc‟s ice axe and then a piece given were focused 100% on each step and to each member of our group as they placement of the feet, rather than arrived at the top until the bar had run peering down into the icy void below. out. K2 herself was slowly revealed, standing high and lofty above the After this the route ascended between ridge opposite. An outrageously big fantastic, heavy, glacial scenery. Big hill. The Gasherbrum range to our crevasses and bergschrunds to each right and Broad peak were now much side, icy blue and then black inside; closer and this created the feeling of jewel like icicles set at the lips of indeed standing on the roof of the beauty and the beast incarnate. Seracs world, as we were nearly mid-way up higher up had collapsed, tumbling the huge faces of these mountains down the face leaving a tangled mass compared with our base at Concordia. of giant ice blocks. The route passed very close on a 40º slope to another Looking the other way across the gapping crevasse. One slip here and Gondogora La, Trinity peak (6700m) glacial potholing would be the order was a white monster with hanging of the day. A rope was fixed here to glaciers and giant seracs banding their safeguard the way. A flatter portion way down towards a nameless glacier. then followed, objectively dangerous A string of snowy peaks, with underneath the huge seracs above, glaciated faces descending to merge in before the route traversed left above a tangled confusion of crevasses into another, steeper slope, again with a the main glacier itself, leading down fixed rope. the valley towards the beautiful and graceful Liada Peak. This was a By now the sun was up, but still a curvaceous granite rock triangle with while before its rays would heat and a sharp snow arête formed on the edge loosen this frozen mass of ice and of the granite slabs. snow. The first signs of dawn when crossing the upper Vigne glacier had, Before we descended, Jo arrived on a as expected, lifted the hearts of the sling being towed up by one of the trekkers, but also revealed more of the Hushe guides. John paid off the guide challenge ahead. who carried his rucksack (due to some altitude problems) and Jo was also The traverse then turned into an encouraged to “thank the guide upward climb over steep ground appropriately”. towards our objective, the col. From there I was nearly at the top of the The delay in our final members Gondogora La, the final step over the arriving was not only good for seeing lip of another crevasse with a helping the view of K2 evolve, but was also of hand from the cook and Marc and I‟d major benefit for safety during the a view from the roof of the world. descent. It allowed the Spanish party and the porters to descend ahead and Elation. I shared the top with three so not shower us with stones. Spanish, Marc and a couple of porters before the masses arrived and almost The ice slope was thankfully still turned it into a tourist attraction. The snowy, but we kept our crampons on

The YRC Bulletin 88 Summer 2001 for extra purchase on the thin path points. Jo waited at the top with Ali that was a mix of gravel and frozen and the Hushe guide because they snow. This was precarious, as any were going to be slower; in reality he slip would have been fatal being on should have been first being one of the edge of a 900m crumbling cliff the most likely to dislodge stones. and secondly because dislodged Walking very carefully and placing stones would accelerate to free fall rather than shuffling our feet, we speeds and bounce down the couloir descended. Some sections we could below. The reason why this descent scramble or just walk down while was so dangerous could now be seen. others were slippery slabs sometimes If this were descended by oneself or covered in loose rocks. For the later with a couple of others, it would not we descended one at a time, placing be anywhere near as much as a the fixed ropes over our rucksacks problem. The reason was that the and shoulders and abseiling down. descent route basically headed down Denis, being a little hasty, went head steep ground, up to 60º, down the over heels but landed in one piece and edge of and across several couloirs was fine. that channelled falling rock at a great Midway down the first fixed rope, speed to the glacier below. A party Alan looked very ill and complained who had descended first would of feeling sick and having a very therefore be shelled by anything strange sensation before starting to dislodged or kicked off by those puke up. We encouraged him down, above. The upper area was all loose but he kept retching without bringing and each time a foot was placed on anything up. We continued down and the path intense care had to be taken when we had reached a safer section to avoid knocking off stones. had a good look at him. He couldn‟t We let the Spanish group descend keep water down and was feeling around the sheltering corner of a really bad. It was now important to buttress and then started our way get him down the hill, but as we were down. The narrow path led to a faded doing so, it started to snow fairly fixed rope anchored at a couple of hard. We stopped underneath a

The YRC Bulletin 89 Summer 2001 granite outcrop that offered some down the moraine for some while, I protection. Chris (our trek leader and stayed with Alan while Chris walked doctor) had a look at Alan and with Jo. Thankfully, we soon arrived decided that he did have acute altitude at the start of a stream valley next to sickness. I strapped his pack onto the moraine where Razza and another mine and Alan descended as fast as he porter where waiting. They insisted could with Ian and Alex. The on carrying my pack of two day sacs. problem was not just Alan, who was Thinking that camp was just around considered to have mild cerebral the corner, I agreed. We plodded on oedema, but Steve had not yet reached but the campsite was not to be seen us. He had wanted to take his time, until a little while later. Alan was but with Ali and the Hushe guide overjoyed, and I was relived. appearing out of the snow shortly Upon reaching the campsite, Alan before the rock without Steve, we had dived head first into his tent and just another problem. lay there, barely able to express how We needed to make sure that Steve he would like his tea. I sat in the returned down safely because he had mess tent, tired but elated, eating the refused help from both Ali and the rice and corned beef that magically Hushe guide, who were both irate and appeared. My vision was a little saying that Steve would not return blurred in one eye - a sure sign of from the mountain until midnight. hyperglycaemia due to 12-14 hours on We left an extra down jacket with Ali the move with only Tracker bars and and agreed that Ali would wait for at an altitude of over 5000m. Some Steve. If Steve still did not make it chocy biscuits soon fixed that. Steve down in reasonable time, we would appeared later with Ali and all the send up water and a tent. The Hushe party had made it down. We had all guide ascended again to look for made it! Steve. Jo caught us up but was The stars that evening were glorious: descending really slowly. I continued myriad upon myriad of countless with Jo, while Chris first caught up gems, some bright, others faint with Ian, Alex and Alan and then myself the Milky Way wafting across the sky. and Jo. Chris gave Alan two Diamox tablets I‟d been carrying for Village life in northern Baltistan emergencies. Alan‟s balance was I walked into the village of Hushe badly affected and he couldn‟t feeling like an alien. I did not belong, remember much of the descent at the both from their looks and how I felt. time. However, his condition rapidly We have so much and they have so improved as we descended. Ian and little, we looked so strange to them, Alex went ahead while Chris and I yet here they were normal and not us. stayed with Jo and Alan. After walking through the Photography was now forgotten. village feeling embarrassed The final part of the descent was to be here on holiday free to a traverse along an exposed mud, come and leave when we moraine path requiring care. By wanted. Many locals do not the now Alan was recovering leave the area at all during having lost 900m since the their lives, lacking the means Gondogora La. Jo was to do so. They treated us as incredibly slow. Wandering superior beings, which we

The YRC Bulletin 90 Summer 2001 were not. The misery that people The schoolteacher also came to see us back at home can get into striving for for a while. He teaches ages 5 to 18 more seems very hollow when from 8am to 2pm, every day except compared to the village of Hushe. Sundays with Friday as a half day. This costs parents 10 rupees a month. Hushe is a simple place, round stones Some of the children looked fine and from the river held together with mud malnourishment did not appear to be a to make buildings and homes. Dirt problem but there were some distinct floors, either wooden logs and mongoloid features. The children branches as a roof or some iron were all dirty, but many had smiles to sheeting. The school was a modern melt any heart. building, funded by trekkers who have passed through. Little children The nurse guy came back with a playing in the street with dirty but donation book and we were able to smiling faces were running around give individually to support health, through the barley crops. Amazingly, education, campsites or rubbish a few could speak English and asked clearance from the mountains. $25 our names, others called out “Hello should pay for 250 doses of medicine. sweet” as we walked past. A couple The local people were open and of little girls let us take their friendly, eager to talk and shake photograph. The streets were dirt hands. A strict Muslim village with a paths; polluted water ran in channels sign in English next to the police by the road side. Some buildings had station, where trekkers must register plastic windows, others mesh in the summer informed us that taking screening. Karakorum Experience photographs of women was strictly sponsored both water and power for prohibited. Women were scarce in this village, so standpipes were the streets, with a few seen in the installed around the village and our fields carrying huge mounds of hay on campsite area had a fluorescent light. their backs. In the summer, jeeps can get out to We had camped in a field inside the other villages, but in winter the village walls. After lunch it was time village is cut off, with no radio or to say goodbye to our trusty band of telephone. They have a nurse with porters. They all lined up and Chris some medicines, but if someone is called out their names to give them really ill, then during winter when about 500 rupees or about a three-day they cannot be taken to hospital, they bonus. We had each given 3400 often die. The nurse cum doctor cum rupees into the kitty. They shook all pharmacist came to our campsite to of our hands, expressed thanks and explain this to us. As little as four some even seemed sad to leave us. I rupees can buy some medicine, and think that we as a group had tried to they vaccinate against some common share some of our humanity with diseases, but not all. He collects all them, and they in turn had opened to the children together for when the us and shared what they could of their doctor visits. As happened most days ways and culture. They had gone the on trek, and especially as we were in a extra mile for us, working diligently village, Chris had his outpatients and really treating us better than we again, with one guy being given anti- deserved. Some of us gave clothes to spasm drugs for a bowel area them in appreciation. We‟d had a problem, possibly cancer. good time together. The end of the

The YRC Bulletin 91 Summer 2001 trek was reached, and now we had the Looking down from the area where long ride back to Islamabad and our the road started again, fields of corn ticket to the West. stretched down to the river and apricots were drying on house roofs Awaken at 4am by, to us, the wail of ready for winter. The sudden flood the call to prayer, this was the start of had wiped out a large proportion of a day of wonder, leaving the Hushe what had looked like a prosperous behind and bouncing our way towards village in terms of fields and crops. Skardu in Jeeps. We started out with three jeeps, as the sun shone on The track passed through a gathering Masherbrum, crowned in white, and centre for hay, collected together into glowing brown with countless rock huge bundles ready for ferrying to a of spires higher than the Alps yet local distribution centre. Some dwarfed still by the mighty giant buildings here had machined and beyond. I hopped into the back of the painted wooden doors and most plots, jeep carrying our duffle sacks and gardens and houses had small Chinese stood holding the tarpaulin frame with padlocks. Passing up around a corner, Alan, Ian and Ali for the first section we reached a larger village, with a of our ride. I felt so alive. This gave brightly coloured Mosque. Terraced a real birds eye view of the mountains buildings, with mud and stick flat that form the high boundaries of the roofs for drying grass and apricots, river Hushe and our road. climbed their way up the hillside The road twisted and turned alongside the river, a winding line traversing the side of the mountain, until we reached the next main village, Kande. Here a flash flood had washed away not only our 4x4 track, but also much of the village, forcing them into wood or iron sheet covered heavy cotton fabric tents. A crowd of male villagers swamped us wanting to carry our duffle bags across the boulder slope and three river crossings via wet and slippery poles. They charged 40 rupees for each bag. We found our way across the landslide and then walked through the village, twisting and turning between apricot trees, irrigation channels and villagers homes. People were sitting on the floor, children running around, women dressed from head to toe in brightly coloured fabric.

The YRC Bulletin 92 Summer 2001 towards the mosque. An amazing details were recorded. Thoughtfully, jumble of near geometric shapes, man we left the cameras in the jeep to made but still hand made. avoid any risk of confiscation. All very relaxed as they just wanted the Continuing towards Skardu, the jeeps boxes ticked, just like functionaries bounced their way in a straighter line everywhere. between tall trees and stone walls. These villages had primitive electric The road improved a little and we systems, often donated by foreign crossed several suspension bridges. organisations, notably climbing clubs. One of these was 400 feet in span, Children waved at us through the held by six one-inch diameter steel windows of one long school building. wires on each side linked to decking of wooden sleepers via vertical ties. Khapalu was our lunch stop, an oasis Some side cords stabilised it a little to of flowers amidst this high desert reduce side swing. Only one bridge world. We walked into a room with a had a steel structure. All of flexed carpet, sofas: a shock after so long in and pulsated when crossed. the wild. After so much green tea and water, it was a delight to slowly drink Generally tarmaced roads now a bottle of coke. enabled faster passage but also some hairy moments when oncoming From here, the dirt road continued vehicles were on the wrong side of the 190km to Skardu, passing initially road or we dropped two wheels off through some more populated areas the tarmac to avoid crunching metal. with a string of villages before a long When we had first looked out from hot drive (42ºC) through near desert the K2 motel, the view to our right scenery amidst high mountains, was our return approach. Turning endless scree and broken, rubbly cliffs back into the motel, the main part of rather than towering granite walls. our adventure had ended. Things had We passed through an army run very smoothly while also being checkpoint for foreigners where our the experience of a lifetime. Ali accompanied us into Skardu bazaar to look for a few bits and pieces. After our simple life in the mountains, it was an almost overpowering wave of noise, smell and colour, even to the extent of being stressful. After washing my face, I lay on my back and went to sleep. Apparently, here I started to moan during dinner and be negative after, they say, having been positive all through the trip.

The YRC Bulletin 93 Summer 2001

Cycling with the Tour de France Dennis Armstrong It was Mark my son who had the idea. He is into biking and has passed on his enthusiasm to his son, Robert, my grandson. “Why not,” said he one day in August 1999, “why not three generations of Armstrongs, aged 10, 40, and 70, go to France, and cycle up some of the wine, in my house, implying that big climbs in the Alps with the Tour twiddling a few pedals on a French de France? After all it was an hill would have dire effect upon me, a Armstrong (Neil) that went to the member of the YRC. I almost moon, and Armstrong (Lance) that exploded with indignation, but I was won the Tour de France in 1999.” told to calm down. Slowly I began to As I say, I knew Mark was into see that his business training had biking, and anything with the word taught him to make sure his back was “alps” in it will get my attention, but covered. Someone else would be all this remote family linkage took me blamed. He could then plan a more back a bit. So what with the glow vigorous trip with a clear from the word “alps”, and our consciousness. ancestry, it slipped my mind that what In October via the Internet was being proposed was that I should (www.letour.fr) we received full be cycling (ere too long) up some very details of the 87th Tour in 2000. It big mountainous roads. Bigger than would consist of 21 stages, making a anything round Balsall Common, total of 3630km of cycling, and there that‟s for sure. Still a challenge is would be five stages in haute something I find hard to pass by. And montagne. We wanted to find hills Three generations doing something that the Tour would come over late in worthwhile together, well that has to the day, to give us all morning to be something to go for. cycle up the hill before them, We The first hurdle was getting the nihil would camp at the foot of the climb, obstat from my wife. That would have and set off early, and when all the been no problem left to myself but cavalcade had gone by, we would Mark went straight into it. freewheel all the way back down to the campsite to open a celebratory “Look Mum,” he said as we sat round bottle of something (cheap and) good. the kitchen table finishing off a bottle Etape 15, Dimanche 16 Juillet: of Rosemount, “I don‟t want to be Briancon – Courchevel 168km. The blamed if I bring Dad back in a box.. route consisted of five climbs: Col du I want your permission to do this, and Lauteret (2060 m), Col du Galibier you‟re responsible if anything (2645 m), Col du Telegraphe (1566 happens.” m), Col de la Madelaine (2000 m) and I could not believe my ears! My the final ascent to Courchevel (2004 young whippersnapper, drinking my m). With the maps spread all over the

The YRC Bulletin 94 Summer 2001 floor, we chose Col de la Madelaine, tents…surely no problem. The good an 8% climb 20km long, a climb of lady, on hearing that our name was the première catégorie. We chose the Armstrong (and perhaps a relation of village of La Chambre at the foot of Lance‟s?) was kind to us, found us a the Madelaine, in the valley of L‟Arc, spot in a nearby field, uncut thick wet some 10 km NW of St Jean-de- grass, on a slope. But that did not Maurienne for our campsite. matter, we were here, and we were in. We found that the Tour had a jour de We cooked our supper in thin rain, repos on the following day, so that and young Robert was beginning to would allow us to move our camp and revise his impression of camping, to the foot of the next hill we selected. downwards! Ėtape 16, Mardi 18 Juillet: The Méteo was more favourable for Courchevel – Morzine 196 kms. This the next day. It would not rain all consisted of five climbs: Col des day. So having bought supplies for Saisies (1650 m), Col des Aravis the next few days, we had a training (1498 m), Col de la Colombière (1618 run up the valley and back to get our m), Col de Chatillon (733), and Col legs going and pedals turning. There de Joux-Plane (1700 m). We selected was more rain as we cooked our the Col de Joux-Plane, 12km long but supper, and less conversation as we a 8.4% climb. This was off the scale realised that the next day was IT. for French Mountain Cycling, so it Something new for us all. Even Mark was described as hors catégorie. We had not cycled up a 12 mile hill planned to drive to a camp site at before. Verchaix in the valley of the Giffre, Next morning, we set off at 0800 hrs, north of Chamonix, and climb Joux- early to allow for contingencies. It Plane. proved to be a mistake. The road up We set off on Thursday 13 July, in the Col de la Madelaine was frantic Mark‟s wife‟s Volvo, the back stuffed with cars and Romavans trying to get with gear, and three bikes upright on to the Summit for the best view. the rack on the roof. Our start was There were vans of police, and vans delayed by the Coventry Telegraph loaded with steel barriers, being photographer turning up to record this ferried up to control the crowds. beginning for the good citizens of There were concessionaires, full of Coventry, and further delayed because their T-Shirts and baseball caps, I then forgot my bumbag with my klaxonisting their way up the hairpin passport and all the French francs in bends. It was noisy and unpleasant, it. But without further mishaps, we like cycling on the M25. Once the reached Dover, for 13.30 hrs, crossed road was closed however things by ferry, and spent the first night at a calmed down. In French fashion, the B&B Hotel in St Quentin. The next people were already installed for the day, France‟s Day of Celebration, was day, tables out, glasses at the high wet and windy, in fact distinctly port, bottle already looking well used. depressing. We reached our village of Everyone was in a great mood. There La Chambre at 17.30 hrs, and found were national banners: German and the campsite up the hill. We were Belgium, with their Black, Yellow extremely surprised to find the and Red, the Netherlands with campsite full! We had never dreamt Orange, Italy with Green and White, of booking ahead – after all two small and France with Red White and Blue.

The YRC Bulletin 95 Summer 2001

come through with spare bicycles, Official cars and then a pause…a long pause…and the first cheer goes up, the tour is at La Chambre, they are beginning the climb up our hill. We begin to imagine them cycling round and up the bends we had cycled. How fast are they going? Our 3.9 mph seemed pitifully slow compared with A few solitary Brits with a Union their 15-20 mph. Then they arrive, Jack, and an odd American, cheering young men, sun glasses mostly over Lance Armstrong. We had a Union their forehead, in brightly coloured, Jack on the back of our bikes, and we polyester high-wicking shirts, were gaily cheered (“Euro, Euro, articulating with the team colours of Where is Tony Blair?) as we slowly the bicycles: Pink for Festina, Blue pedalled up the endless hill. and White for US Postal Services, etc. Occasionally we were offered a quick A look of absolute determination on snifter from the crowd, that put some their faces, some off the saddle to get fire into our tummies for a while. a bit more leverage on the pedals, grateful for all cheers and By late morning, it was clear that the encouragement but concentrating so summit was already full and there hard on getting the bike and would be no room for us when we got themselves up the next five there. So at about 13.30 we settled kilometres. It was hard to imagine the for a point about 5 km below the pain they must be feeling, even the summit, as the furthest we could get. fittest. The crowd had their individual It offered a reasonably view of the favourites: the French for Richard riders coming up and they would be Virenque, the Italians for Marcel going slow (for them) because they Pantini, known as “The Pirate”, the would already have climbed three Germans for Jan Ullrich. Lance other huge climbs and surely must be Armstrong in the maillot jaune well feeling it. The sun was beginning to placed in the first group and a young shine palely through the clouds. Colombian cyclist, Santiago Botero, Things were looking up. We had wearing the maillot à pois, as King of something to eat and settled down for the Mountains. the tour to arrive. I had a sleep. The first sign of the impending cyclists is the vehicles of Tour Official Sponsors, dressed overall in various fantastic outfits: an elephant, a Co-Co Cola bottle, a Michelin tyre, and goodies of all kinds are tossed willy-nilly into the crowd, a shower of freebies: baseball caps, key rings, samples of coffee and of saucissons, drinking bottles, and so on. The crowd became wild with excitement, When the last competitor had gone seeing who could grab the most. The by, we gathered our things together atmosphere quickened. Team cars and set off to cycle up the last five

The YRC Bulletin 96 Summer 2001 kilometres to the top. It was quite were favouring and who out of hard starting again and we were favour. We knew who to look for: cycling against the tide. The crowd for us, No 127, David Millar, the Scot was streaming down from the summit. riding for CONFIDIS. I got my head down, the summit cairn When the Tour was over, we (so to speak) was in sight and nothing completed the cycling to the col, once was going to stop me now! The more against a vast crowd, and there banner across the road – “1 had drinks, took photographs of Kilometre” – and I knew I was almost ourselves looking suitably macho and there… three more minutes and I impressive. Mark looked the part, would have done it. I was not going insisting on having his expensive bike back in box. It is interesting to note in all the pictures, Robert looked that we free-wheeled back down to unimpressed and ready for more, and I the valley, to our camp site at 15 mph, did my best, thinking that at least I about the same speed at which the had earned the right to be a poseur Tour came up! this once. Two days later we were back at the Was it difficult? You had to get stuck same game, this time faced with the in, like going up Corbetts, unrelenting Col du Joux-Plane, shorter but steeper but if taken at a reasonable speed, than the Madelaine. Also, whereas at within your limits you could keep La Chambre, the Tour route came past going. We made sure we drank lots the camp site‟s gate, at Verchaix, we of water, laced with „Powersport‟ had 4km to cycle to start the ascent drink, and Dextrosols were on hand from the old town of Samoens. for every stop. The atmosphere made Learning from our experience we did it. To cycle up through the throng of not start as early, but waited for them cheering crowd, along with many to close the road at 10.00. The other cyclist doing the same thing, on cycling was calmer, but the route was all kinds of bikes, but mainly mean- definitely steeper. We all had to „dig lean machines, was something new, in‟ to get up some of the bends on the something great and something I will hairpins, particularly if because of not forget. Maybe not like topping a traffic you could not take the outside 4000m, but very close. line. The weather had improved greatly, and it was a lovely sunny Alpine day, snow from the recent storms on the peaks around us. Again we found that there was no way we could get to the col, “complètement bloqué, Messieurs!”, and had to settle for a point 3km below the summit. Again the long wait, the news filtering from the people in the Romavans with TVs of the position of the Tour to the expectant crowd: who was in front, and where X or Y was in the peloton. I had used the previous day to buy the sporting paper L‟Equipe and studied the field: which rider was which, what was his number, who the experts

The YRC Bulletin 97 Summer 2001

In Praise of Sterland’s Seat on the top there were John Sterland about six people camping, Most guide books advise readers who were still abed: not that if they wish to have an an ideal place for excellent view of Lake camping, but no doubt Windermere they should climb they would enjoy the view either Orrest Head just north of when they woke up. the town of Windermere or However, some years ago Gummer’s How, approached from I discovered a much better the road from Newby Bridge to viewpoint of Lake Bowland Bridge, map reference Windermere, if only for 390883. Orrest Head is the fact that I have never recommended if one wishes to seen anyone else there. It look south down Lake is situated on the west Windermere, while Gummer’s side of the lake at map How is a popular vantage point, reference 364900. It is not particularly for motorists, to enjoy named on any of my the lake view to the north. Ordnance Survey maps Both these viewpoints, marked on and so I call it “Sterland’s the Lake District Tourist map Seat”. It is about one mile with red stars, suffer from north-east from High disadvantages. Orrest Head is far Dam, and can be too popular to be enjoyed to the approached from a little- full, except possibly in the early used path, also not morning, while Gummer’s How, the marked on the OS map, height of which is 321 metres, is the from High Dam to the Lakeside road. haunt of motorists who can park their I have climbed up to my Seat on cars at the official car park at about numerous occasions when staying at 160 metres, and a mere six or seven my cottage near Finsthwaite, and over hundred yards from its summit. One the years have spent many hours cannot guarantee that it will be free of admiring the view, or just resting. I visitors even in the early morning: the recall that I wrote the draft of two last time I “climbed” Gummer’s How meet reports while sitting in the sun was at 7.30 in the morning, and I met on the large rock at the top, from a young couple coming down. Then which the view to the north is magnificent. One can see Fairfield and the Kirkstone Pass, while to the west there is an excellent view of the Coniston Fells, and southwards on a fine day the views seem almost limitless over Morecambe Bay and as far as Ingleborough. View north up Lake Windermere from Sterland’s Seat

The YRC Bulletin 98 Summer 2001

How it Really Used to Be! but on looking down I could see several spectators in the Dress Circle Number Three by a “Has Been” watching me. There are lots of spiky Mooching round Carlisle one day in rocks about there and I would hit 1958 after University exams I came them if I fell. Not good so I continued across Joe Moody, an old school and soon came to the floor of the friend. I knew he climbed a bit and Eagle' s Nest. One of my precious had a rope so a trip was fixed up. We line runners went on there and I felt duly met at the railway station and much better even though I was no finally ended up threading the Needle more than forty or so feet from Joe. on a lovely June morning. Getting into the Nest was the work of I had been thinking about Eagle's Nest a moment but getting out was far Direct ever since I read of an early more complicated. attempt where the leader fell six feet I tried this way and that, all the while and the rope snapped. He was, I aware of the spectators. It was not think, G. A. Solly. We kitted up in difficult, I just could not figure out the the Dress Circle - rubbers, two moves so I could flow smoothly over medium weight ropes and three line the rock! I was able to move up my slings with karabiners. For younger sling runner about two feet. That members, rubbers were cheap and helped but not a lot. therefore thin soled, gym shoes. Climbing in them was a special Finally I started talking to myself. technique whereby a series of moves Usually I use my surname on these were figured out and then the climber occasions but found I was arguing on moved smoothly over the rock, using Christian name terms. In the end I footholds just for moving over. At its moved tentatively into layback moves. best it was a truly elegant form of They did the trick and I was on the top rock climbing. Even falling off was twenty feet of truly sloping holds over relatively elegant. which, I like to think, I moved elegantly. It was quick. The two ropes, the old No. 2 weight, were due to muddled thinking on my The route meets the Ordinary route in part. I had seen people using two a large corner with a crack at the back ropes threading first one then the where you belay. Somehow an other through protection karabiners, to eighteen year old lad had got into the reduce drag and I felt, mistakenly, it crack and he watched in disbelief as I must be safer. came over the final bulge. "What course are you on then?” he asked. The first pitch was no problem though Plainly he did not believe me when I the two ropes, each knotted round my replied "I do it for fun". waist and tied with a bowline, were a considerable nuisance but they did I spoiled the effect by making a pig's make me feel I must be on a hard ear of climbing the crack behind him. climb. Joe came up and I set off on Our day finished off fairly painfully the top pitch of seventy or more feet. by running the Great Hell Gate screes in the aforementioned rubbers. I did The shape of the pitch is a traverse once run those screes five times in left onto the ridge and then smoothly one day in rubbers, which ruined up on sloping holds. That was the way them, but Fred Dowlen owned them! the stars of the day did it anyway. Getting to the ridge was comfortable I have not used two ropes since.

The YRC Bulletin 99 Summer 2001

Eccentricity and Munros after sleeping on the hard ground, I or, a view from the circumference felt as though I needed a block and tackle to raise me to an upright Jeff Hooper posture). My friend even got on well with Stanley. Note: Similarity to any person living or dead is intentional and the contents Sometime later, when I broached the of the following article should not be subject of membership the only reply taken as fact. that I got was that he did not want to join the YRC as it was club of I cannot quote him as I did not have eccentrics. Obviously, either he my tape recorder there, and I have thought that he had not reached the never learned shorthand, but, at the required eccentricity to fit in; or that I 87th Annual Dinner, the retiring was not a true eccentric and so should President, in his speech said not invite him to join. He carried on something like this: regularly walking locally at weekends When I became President some and then his Scottish ancestry came members looked upon me as ever so through. On his way to and from slightly eccentric. Well, you are now visiting relatives in the north of going to enjoy the pleasure of the Scotland he began to go up mountains Presidency in the hands of a real selected from Munro‟s Tables, eccentric. keeping the book well out of sight I have long held the opinion that the when staying in Youth Hostels. As greatest accolade that can be time progressed, he linked up with a conferred upon a YRC man is that he fellow spirit, who also had Scottish shall be named as an eccentric. ancestry and there was quite a battle Back in 1983 I invited a young, hard, as to who could bag most Munros. walker to join the Club on the Long Not only did they go together, but Walk. As well as thinking that he each would try to gain an advantage would enjoy it, I had other motives. I by fitting in one or two without the had decided that my only hope of other noticing. A quick trip to finishing the Welsh 3000s (to grandparents here and a solo drive on obliterate the memories of the 1967 New Years Eve there, and an odd failure), was, that if in addition to summit would be claimed. But yet, if buying some Walsh lightweight fell- ever I mooted the idea of membership running boots, I had someone with me the reply would be „No, it‟s a club of who could provide a tent, to ensure a eccentrics‟. quiet night‟s sleep (or what few hours I have memories of one glorious would remain of one, when rising at 3 September weekend in 1988 when the a.m.), and then would drag me along; two of them dragged me along and we do the route finding; generally smooth claimed six Munros the first day, and the way and keep me going. I also more the day after. Towards the end thought that he had the makings of an of the first day, when I looked across excellent member. The weekend went to the other side of a rocky glen, from well, we both finished the 3000s, his what I believed was the last summit of tent was commodious and there were the day, to a craggy looking defile fewer disturbances, the night before with an immense height loss between the walk, sleeping in it, than in the me and it, I said, „Thank goodness we hut. (The morning following the walk, are not including that one today‟,

The YRC Bulletin 100 Summer 2001 silence for a while and then „Er, well, the least, to be considered as an actually we are‟. It was a grand embryo eccentric. Or, perhaps it was weekend. that the member who persuaded him Before long my friend‟s fellow to join, was proved to be of greater Munroist was elected a member of the eccentricity than me, and therefore a YRC and was able to introduce the more worthy proposer. When our new one who had an aversion to eccentrics member realised to what he had as a guest on YRC Scottish meets. committed himself, he immediately This way he built up his quota of fled the country and as far as I know attendances to qualify for has been unable to attend a meet membership, and no doubt at the same since. He must come back someday; time observed how to be an eccentric. he cannot leave the score at around We all know the eccentrics; each 200 indefinitely. member has his own catalogue of The point about eccentricity is that it them. all depends on where you are standing. If you stand on the Almost fourteen years after the Welsh 3000s, on another Scottish meet his circumference of a revolving disc you fellow Munroist, now an eminent and rotate around the centre, the centre is respected member of the YRC, normal and you are eccentric to it. By persuaded him to fill in the the theory of relative motion, the application form; another one or two centre of the same disc appears to Munros were added to the tally that rotate around the viewpoint on the meet and in the course of time he was circumference, which then becomes elected a member. I think, by this the normal fixed point—I have always time, he believed that having done known that the YRC view of the about 200 Munros he was entitled, at world was right!

A Stop Press Chipping received from never looked back. Steve Craven… William (Bill) Allsup joined the YRC in 1919, became a life member in 1950 and I have just received my copy of “A died in 1969. He spent much of his life in Passage to Himalaya” published in 2001 India and Assam (J.YRC. 10, (35), 387) by the Oxford University Press for the where he contributed to mountain Himalayan Club to celebrate the new literature by writing his “Notes on millenium. It contains in its over 350 Walking around Shillong” - a rare pages reprinted selected articles and booklet of which a copy is fortunately in lesser items from the 56 issues of the the YRC library. Allsup devoted three Himalayan Journal. pages to cave exploration in the Khasi Of particular interest to members of the and Jaintia Hills, thereby becoming one YRC is “The Founding of the Himalayan of the first people in India to explore Club” written by G.L. Corbett originally caves for their own sake. Indeed, now published in the 1929 Himalayan Journal that that part of India is no longer a and reprinted in this new volume. We are politically sensitive area, it has become a told that following the formation of the popular caving venue for foreign Mountain Club of India on 23 September expeditions working with the locals. 1927, “I took an early opportunity to Bill Allsup therefore deserves to be meet Mr. W. Allsup, its moving spirit.” remembered for his contributions to the Following this meeting the Mountain founding of the Himalayan Club, and to Club of India merged with the Himalayan the development of cave exploration in Club, after which the combined Club has India.

The YRC Bulletin 101 Summer 2001

Book Review Dennis Armstrong

Travail So Gladly Spent by Tom Price Published by The Ernest Press, price £17.50 The second half of the twentieth century has seen climbing and hill walking change from being a kind of private game or hobby, akin to fishing or gardening, into an institution. In the 1940’s we lads went off to the hills to do our thing, with whatever tackle came to hand, (father’s Home Guard boots, a Gas cape, and an ex- paratrooper’s anorak, 15/- from Edgingtons, and a hemp rope if you went on the rock faces) and we enjoyed a freedom from restrictions that today we have forgotten about. This world-at-your-feet (literally from the Milestone Buttress or Gashed sense. There is little of his personal Crag on Tryfan) was a wonderful life. It is rather a series of vignettes, feeling. It was just good to be alive, an episode here, a happening there, all and perhaps we were conscious that told in a delightfully light, gentle others were less fortunate, lying in way. The illustrations are his own some foreign field that is for ever drawings. He served in the navy England. During the 1970’s all this during the war and then went back to began to change. The motorway Liverpool University to take his network made access to the hills so degree in English. He knows of what much easier, child-centred education good style in writing consists, there eroded enthusiasm for team games to are scores of little literary quotations win honour for the school, and in its scattered here and there, and his place encouraged youngsters ‘to seek whimsical humour and appreciation adventure’, through school parties and of the female sex are never far scouts. The Duke of Edinburgh’s beneath the surface. So here are the Award was their goal. The result is recollections of a man who (to quote the social scene on the mountains that Roberts) has ‘been’, has done things, we know so well today. not always wisely, but with a joie-de- Tom Price has seen these changes at vivre that is infectious. He has done first hand. He started climbing before these things over fifty years, not to the war and continues to do so still impress others, not for money, not for today. I met him at LHG in October PR, not for sponsors, but because he and found a kind of hobbit figure, is what he is. Tom Price’s writings with twinkly eyes and and an have an integrity and an honesty that infectious youthful grin. His book is is refreshing. not an autobiography in the usual He taught at Workington Grammar School, then Warden of Eskdale

The YRC Bulletin 102 Summer 2001

Outward Bound Centre and Leader of In these activities he show himself the Eskdale Mountain Rescue team. worthy of Kipling’s ideal man: he Many of his stories are therefore treats “those twin imposters” triumph about the Lakes. But of course he and disaster alike. When his good goes further afield. I think my friend Keith Warburton and a young favourite is his first tale “Short of the protégé, Harry Stephenson, disappear Folding Stuff”, recounting how he on the ill-fated 1959 Batura Mustagh climbed Pic de Midi d’Ossau in the expedition, Price is left to pick up the Pyrenees immediately after the war, pieces. His heart goes out to greatly helped by a French army Warburton’s newly wedded wife and detachment. Scotland, Wales, Skye to Stephenson’s father and girl friend, (with the YRC), the Alps, the but he sees an objectivity to the Dolomites, are all there, and further tragedy, that offends the relatives. afield, in South Georgia in 1955 with Price feels that the tragedy was “a George Spenceley, and later canoeing terrible misfortune and an accident with George in Canada in 1976. In that made no sense”, which must have the 1980’s he led a mixed party of seemed hard for the bereaved. But his rich American tourists and poor triumphs are treated with the same young Africans (few spoke English, equal objectivity, just another day out, but one brought a “ghetto-blaster”) on feeling good that body and spirit had behalf of the Outward Bound been taken to the limit. He stresses organisation in Lesotho in South that he started climbing in the days Africa. But he keeps coming back to when the leader just did not fall. his favourite place the Lakes: Dow Period. He takes great care, he Crag, Gimmer, Scafell, Borrowdale sometime turns back defeated (but not and of course his favourite, the very often), and will take help in what ‘Grand Steyn’, Pillar Rock. ever form it comes. On one trip in the

South Georgia

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Alps he writes: “Shaving on this trip down the 500 miles of the Hanbury I find is good for me; it brings a sense and Thelon rivers, through the wind- of well-being, persuading me I am swept vastnesses of the Beverley, coping with things and keeping on Aberdeen and Schultz Lakes to top.” Yes, there is fear, yes, he is Chesterfield Inlet which runs into often glad to be back at base, the Hudson Bay. Price writes: “This dangers behind him, but there is no journey was one of the most flag-waving, neither at full nor at half significant and memorable adventures mast. of my life and I can say with Pascal: Le silence éternel de ces espaces People we know, or know of, flit infinis m’effraye.” across the pages, creating the feeling that the reader is also a friend of Tom My final thoughts are twofold: I fear Price’s. Great climbers like Andre a hard back copy priced at £17.50 Roch, Bill Tilman, and Walter may prove to be a difficult book to Bonatti, stalwarts like A.B. sell, lacking any of the essential Hargreaves, Graham Macphee, Harry ingredients of sex, drama of cut ropes, Spilsbury, Dennis Grey, Bill Peascod, or hypothermia at 28000 feet: and this Sid Cross and our own Crosby Fox would be a great pity for the book is a and George Spenceley. Even the delight to read. While reading this eponymous Monsieur Tricouni book I had lived with a good person himself, plays a cameo role, whom I have come to know. Tom presenting Price with a tie pin in the would appreciate it perhaps if I say shape of No 1 Tricouni. (What is the that he reminded me of Chaucer’s difference between a No 1 and a No 6 knight: tricouni? Answers on a postcard “He nevere yet no vileinye ne sayde, please to the Editor.) But no mention In al his lyf, unto no maner wight, of Bonington, Joe Brown and only a He was a verray parfit gentil knight.” fleeting reference to John Hunt and Don Whillans. He admits that he never wanted to be a star, “like Colin Kirkus or Maurice Linnell”. He seems indifferent to the world. It is not for fame that he wins laborious days. Alongside these tales are some philosophical essays: why do we climb, what is the difference between ‘recklessness’ and ‘adventure’, what on earth does ‘adventure’ consist of in these days when safety has to be ‘bomb-proof’. One of our members has said to me that he found this chapter the most discerning explanation of our sport that he has ever read. Adventure for Tom Price was the eight months in South Grand Gendarme on the Grépon, Chamonix Georgia in 1955, (£100 bonus on return to England), and above all canoeing in the North West Canada,

The YRC Bulletin 104 Summer 2001

Journal Reviews Bill Todd The photographs, from all over the world, are very good. By the time you read this the journal will be available Craven Pothole Club Record for your delectation in our room at the April 2000 No. 58 Leeds Library. July 2000 No. 59 The Fell and Rock Journal 2000 Oct. 2000 No. 60. This issue of the Fell and Rock Due to the Leeds Library having Journal is well worth a read. It is been closed I have recently taken the funnier than usual; see “Pour Madame above three CPC Records for deposit le Dortoir” by Paul Roberts and in our room. “Caring for the Lake District National Park” by Derek Lyon. I wonder As usual there is a wealth of good whether Derek was responsible for reading. I was particularly impressed Lyon’s Crawl on Gimmer but by the public relations exercise thinking again it was more likely his mounted at Horton in Ribblesdale. Dad or indeed Grandad. It is a good This consisted of talks and a buffet name anyway. and must have done some good for relations with the local people. In spite of, or perhaps because of the lighter touch which pervades this On the same lines in the following issue it is still a wonderful evocation Record No.59 is a note that of the climbing and walking permission had been obtained from experiences of the contributors who Lord Shuttleworth and English Nature include Harry Griffin and Tom price for a dig on Leck Fell, much better who were guests on George than just tearing in with your J.C.B. Spenceley’s meet last October at Low The highlight of No.60 concerns Hall Garth Harry Griffin’s article is the rescue of three experienced cavers wide ranging over personalities as from a place called the “Font” in well as adventures. George Gaping Gill. Apparently they had Basterfield, Lord Chorley and gone through this place in low water Colonel Westmorland feature as well on the outward journey but on their as the “ghostly” appearance of return the water had risen over the Siegfried Herford at Hollow Stones exit passage. when he was supposed to be in France. I believe it, perhaps because I The procedure was to bail out, I’m believe in mountains. not clear where to, and lower the water while the C.P.C. got the Tom Price’s article in contrast centres successful rescue going. mainly on a youthful attempt on the Eskdale Horseshoe. A major fell walk at Christmas is a serious undertaking The Scottish Mountaineering Club and it comes as no surprise to learn Journal 2000. that Tom’s party decided not to Once again a feast of first class ascend Scafell but scrambled down writing and photography, all of such a the rocks at the side of Cam Spout. In uniformly high standard that is good conditions they make a fun difficult to single any out for praise. I scramble but in a dark December particularly enjoyed the articles on evening only the youth of the party W.H. Murray and on Harold Raeburn. kept them out of trouble. Though I expect they thought they were in

The YRC Bulletin 105 Summer 2001 enough trouble Betting soaked in Club Proceedings Silvery Bield Leslie Shore’s “Splendour and 2000 Squalor” came a mite nearer to my The Meets were own experience there. Both of us 7-9Jan, Low Hall Garth; chickened off Broad Stand (solo and getting late). But he used the Foxes 28-30 Jan, N.Wales. Glan Dena; Tarn route while I, in 1951,used 25-27 Feb, The Smithy,Thirlspot; Lord’s Rake to get to Scafell Summit. 4-11 Mar, Brandsethh,Norway.Nordic We both came back over Slight Side Skiing; he to the Woolpack and I to Mrs. 16-19 Mar, The Smiddy, Glen Etive; Cowman’s at Wha House. I can still see the gathering rain squalls. 31 Mar-2 Apl, Backpacking, Cairngorms; But of course the journal does not 5-7 May, LHG Working Meet; confine itself to Lakeland. There are 12-14 May, Bosley Cloud, Congleton, Ladies two articles about the Alicante area of Weekend; mainland Spain. The one which will 27 May-4 Jun, The Corbetts, Spring Bank strike a chord with YRC deals with Holiday; the Bernia Ridge; the other describes 23-25 Jun, Rhinogs, Long Walk, Joint Meet an adventure in Barianco del Infierno with Grits & Wayfarers; of which the nearest translation must 6-9 Jun, Inchnadamph, Grampian Spelio Hut; be Hell Gill. This one is a lot more serious than the Hell Gill up Edendale 4-6 Aug, Saddleworth Boarshurst Centre; which some of us know and love. 25-27 Aug, Lowstern working Party; Apart from the question of size, the October, Guangxi Caving Expedition; photograph is most impressive, there th is a whiff of burnt boats in the 6-8 Oct, LHG 50 Anniversary Meet; description of the normal route. The 27-29 Oct, Alston, North Pennines; author and his son had to climb out or 18-19 Nov, AGM & Annual Dinner, Whoop stay for good. Hall, Kirby Lonsdale; Climbs on Arran, in Arabia and 8-10 Dec, Lowstern Christmas Meet. Colorado are also described and the details of new climbs make the The highlights of the Clubs activities Journal a mine of information. It is in were the YRC Guangxi Expedition to the club library for your delectation. South China where massive new caves were discovered, and the Corbett Meet when 93 members and guests ascended all the 220 summits over the Spring Bank Holiday period. October 6th marked the 50th Anniversary of our tenancy of Low Hall Garth. Our special guests were, Harry Griffin, a well know Kendal journalist and former member and Tom Price a mountain man and explorer of distinction. George Spenceley, the first warden of LHG was the meet leader. The Christmas Meet at Lowstern attracted 46 for dinner, filling the Downham room to

The YRC Bulletin 106 Summer 2001 capacity. Excellent slides of the China Bateman, Past President of the Expedition showed the magnificent Gritstone Club, Frank Walker of the formations in the gigantic caves Northern Pennine Club. The visited and a view of life in the attendance was 83. Guangxi province. Two members Entertainment was provided by fulfilled a dream visiting the Nanda Dennis Armstrong, Derek Bush, Devi sanctuary, the first westerners Darrell Farrant, Alan Linford and for nearly twenty years. The start of Arthur Salmon with a musical sketch regular Tuesday walks and climbs by Dennis comparing YRC making it a very successful Club year. Committee meetings past and present. Dr. Farrer proposed the health of the The 109th Annual General Meeting Club. The health of our Kindred was held at Whoop Hall, Kirkby Clubs and our guests was proposed by Lonsdale, on the 18th November 2000. Alister Renton, the response was by The following members were elected for the Bryan Fleming. The singing of the year 2000/2001: - Club song ‘Yorkshire’ was lead by Arthur Salmon with music by Neil President: A. R. Chapmam Renton. Vice President: D. J. Handley Membership comprised: Hon. Secretary: R. G. Humphreys 110 Ordinary Members, Hon. Meets Secretary; J. H. Hooper 68 Life Members, Hon. Treasurer: G. A. Salmon 4 Honorary Members, totalling Hon. Editor: M. Smith 182.

Hon Librarian/Archivist: W. N. Todd

Huts Secretary: R. D. Josephy Hut Wardens: Low Hall Garth, D. English New Members, Lowstern, R. D. Kirby Resignations & Deaths Hon. Auditor: C. D. Bush Committee: G. Campion, I. D. F. Gilmour, New Members M. Hartland, A. Renton 2000 Alan Clare Michael Ellacott Representatives to National Committees: William H Hawkins Council of Northern Caving Clubs Richard Kirby H.Lomas Martyn Thomas BMC Lancs & Cheshire James Whitby Lake District: K. Aldred Resignations Yorks & Humberside: W. N. Todd 2000 Ian R. Hunt The 87th Annual Dinner followed at Jon Laing the same hotel. The President W. I. Neil Pomfret C. Crowther, was in the chair. The Deaths Chief Guest was our Honorary 2000 Robert Everard Chadwick Member, Dr John Farrer. The Kindred Andrew N. Laing Clubs were represented by Doug Maurice Frederic Wilson Scott, President of the Alpine Club,

Bryan Fleming, President of the

Scottish Mountaineering Club, David F.D.Smith

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The Club‟s principal agent for both day after day their food supplies the 1995 Jugal Himal trek and 1997 consisted of two jars of jam. They Rowaling trek, Motup, recently made were grateful for a donation of 10kg his first visit to our country. A visit to of dog biscuits to supplement their our Yorkshire Dales was something diet and munched these while he made sure he fitted into his climbing. After one long successful schedule and though the hills were day in the sun they descended to a shrouded in mist he relived earlier shepherd's hut and when offered a trips browsing photographs while drink of milk, downed two litres each, staying at Scar Top with Albert they were so dry. Chapman. Motup has since returned to join an

Indian Mountaineering Federation Echoing Dennis Armstrong‟s report expedition conducting an of cycling in the alps, three environmental assessment in the generations also went to Svalbard: Nanda Devi Inner Sanctuary. Kjetil Tveranger, his son and his father. Kjetil asks if the YRC has been there and says it would make a The eight-year summary of bed-nights great place for us to visit. He says, at the Club‟s two huts was presented “You can walk for weeks without at the last AGM by our Hut Secretary, seeing any people, and Longyearbyen Richard Josephy, and is charted is easy to reach.” And he reports: below. “The summer has passed and a warm 1200 autumn has come. I still have Lowstern Spitsbergen in my mind. The 1000 Svalbard tour was great. My father, 800 Andreas and I spent about twelve days 600 there. The first day we had a walk Low Hall Garth around Longyearbyen on the Platå 400 Mountain because the boat to Cape 200 Line was postponed that day. 0 Andreas and I arrived at 3am, and we 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 camped under open sky the first night with the midnight sun and one midge: the only one I saw or heard. The second day we took a three-hour Alessandro Gogna was in Derbyshire boat voyage out to Cape Line, where this spring describing a few of his we visited Isford Radio. My father many achievements in the Alps told a worked there from 1959 to 1960. I tale of his youth. Camped by an think it was strange for him to come Italian hut climbing huge rock walls

The YRC Bulletin 108 Summer 2001 back. We stayed one night there and As I jot these notes down in bleak then had two nights outdoors. We midwinter I cannot help but think that walked around in the area and saw there is a more appropriate start to the Svalbard reindeer and many birds. poem in the last bulletin The landscape was flat moraine with mountains up to 700 metres. I leave tonight from Euston Geologically the landscape was very by the seven-thirty train interesting. We had a beautiful view I may get there tomorrow at the coast. The first day we walked Those damn repairs again about 25 km and camped by the sea on a lonely beach and made a fire As my ire gets ever deeper from driftwood. We did not see any I hear an announcer's dross people on the trip. To be out there, so 'This is the o'ernight sleeper far from people and only your own platform seven for Kings Cross' skill to trust was very special. After the Cape Line tour, we took a three-day cruise with an old Hurtigrute ship up to 80ºN. The idea C.E.Benson in 1930 wrote six very was to reach Moffen Island, but we amusing pages entitled About Nothing in were stopped by fixed solid ice. In a Particular starting… fjord in the very north at the end of a “At the last General Meeting our huge glacier front we saw a polar bear honoured and Honorary Editor, swimming. It is a big and great commenting on the reluctance of country where the distances are very members to supply him with accounts of large. I have already booked a tour up their holiday doings, suggested that they there for March and April.” should remedy this deficiency, if not by writing up their own experiences, by stimulating others to send in theirs.” This is a thinly veiled plug from David Proof reading has failed again in the Smith for Bulletin material. last issue. In Steve Craven‟s article "Cave Box" should have read "Cave Book" and "B. HARRISON", "H.

HARRISON". Member Chris Bird was incorrectly Adrian Bridge entered the London Marathon in April 2001 finishing in 3hrs marked down as prospective member th on the South Pennine meet report. 41mins, 6006 out of some 32,000. Apologies. The training took up a lot of time from Christmas onwards; a silver lining to the Foot and Mouth Disease situation was that it freed up time he would usually From Roy Denney… have spent in the hills for training on flat David Handley's book review talks of roads. walking warding off madness but The organisers had a phrase this year many years with the Club would seem „marathon runners have one less thing to to discount this premise but then do in life.‟ Adrian can go along with again it is all in the definition. that! Perhaps we do just have more than our share of eccentrics.

The YRC Bulletin 109 Summer 2001

Elsewhere in this issue Evidence of the dramatic changes in Dennis Armstrong water levels caused by a downpour in poses the question the mountains is provided in these “What is the difference two photographs taken last year between a No 1 and a within a few hours of one another by No 6 tricouni?” and requests answers Derek Smithson in Glen Nevis. on a postcard. Well, though not on a postcard, Tom Price himself responded to a draft of Dennis‟ review with these sketches. They show the general idea behind the differences though the precise details may have been lost with the passing of so many decades.

The smaller version is the number one tricouni.

David Handley picked this up in the Craven Herald… Above is the warmly sunlit scene in “Walker Rescued the morning, tempting the unwary and A walker on Ingleborough was saved ill-equipped into the mountains. by his mobile phone when he became lost in thick mist on Monday The second shot from much the same afternoon. Denis Wyatt, 37, of viewpoint is threatening. Sheffield, contacted the police when he realised he had taken a wrong turn. He told the police he was standing next to a wall, in a boggy area and in thick mist. The Cave Rescue Organisation was called out and by 7pm Mr Wyatt had been found.”

If you have read Martyn Wakeman‟s report on his Blatoro trip in this issue you might be interested to know he glanced through the e-mailed proof copy at Zurich airport on his way to Beijing for a conference and then two weeks exploring in northwest China. For details of his Himalayan trip see:

www.martyn wakeman.com.

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An extract from letter to Jeff Hooper Stuart is not the first YRC member to from Stuart Thomson, in Vevey, work in Siberia, S.W.Cuttriss was Switzerland written February 2001 there in 1908. Both of the following accounts of his make excellent I have been rather busy travelling but reading: In Northern Siberia YRC at the moment. Most of my time is Journal No.9 Vol.3, p17-30 and either in Perm, Samara or Barnaul — Siberia in Winter YRC Journal No.13 on the map it is below Novosibirsk in Vol.4, p45-156. Siberia close to the Altai Mountains. If you are interested in reading about the areas there is a good book by Colin Thurbron called „In Siberia‟ . Easter 2001 saw Peter Chadwick and We are installing new equipment for his teenage son, Thomas, with production in the old Eastern block. Michael Smith and his, Richard, They are, as you might guess, having cross country skiing in Norway‟s problems getting the necessary people Hardangervidda for fifty miles over to volunteer to work in places like five days starting from Ustaoset. Russia. I work there but live in Glorious sunshine, some new snow Switzerland, which I think is a perfect and cold weather gave good going on compromise, (but then I would with “blue special”. After a short day‟s all the walking and skiing). In my travel from Hein to Tuva they spare time I am having fun as this is a excavated a snow hole and two spent great place for motorcycling in the the night in it. summer (and sometimes in the winter). I invested in another bike, a small 650 vee twin Susuki. The skiing is good but it gets a bit boring just going up and down so I have looked for something with more interest. I have bought some snow- shoes this year and have been out a few times. The next step is to do a winter walking tour and maybe carry the skis up. I have not tried ski touring yet, as it would mean investing in yet more expensive equipment, (I try to keep it to a minimum — the last pair “LITTLE LANGDALE: PROPOSED WRYNOSE AND of new skis I bought cost 50 SwF HARDKNOTT ROAD:- although the snow-shoes were Those who know-and-love the grass- expensive). Fortunately I have found grown road leading from Little Langdale some like-minded souls here and we over Wrynose to Cockley Beck at the managed last year to complete two headwater of the Duddon and thence over long weekend tours — the Tour de Hardknott into Eskdale will not welcome Dents du Midi and the Tour de the proposal to make it fit for coaches Derborence both of which were and motor-cars. Our Lakeland superb staying in the cabanes. We sanctuaries are not so many that we can hope to complete the winter tour at afford to lose even one of them.” From the 1930 YRC Journal the beginning of March if the weather is good and I can arrange to be here.

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Glen Etive Meet moves were awkward in boots and all of it was wet. This 9-11 March 2000 meant cold hands, not much feeling (Are my fingers going Adrian Bridge reports his and Euan to keep this grip or not?) Seaton‟s Sunday ascent of Raeburn‟s route, Observatory Ridge, on Ben The Orion Face (which I‟d last Nevis. seen in the winter when Derek Bush and I climbed Tower “I made a mistake. At the time, Ridge) was completely devoid it seemed reasonable to unrope of snow. Previously, it had and trudge up the last 300 feet been covered and we‟d seen a of snow slope, kicking foot chap soloing a face route on it. holes in the snow as we had on lower sections. After all we It was always cloudy, and we both had crampons and ice never got good views - just axes; it was just that Euan‟s kit glimpses of below and Tower was modern and mine was not. Ridge for a few seconds at a What I hadn‟t forseen was that time. There was a party on the slope got steeper and Tower Ridge that we could became icier as it got higher. I hear; we seemed to have our found it harder and harder to get route to ourselves, which was my crampon points and ice axe fortunate since there was quite a pick to do enough to feel safe. lot of loose rock not frozen in place, a few bits of which were I kept telling myself that the dislodged. Near the top of the guys that put this route up had rocky part, the angle eased and gear no better than mine and to we began to see the edge of the keep a cool head. It worked, at summit plateau, and blue sky least enough to get me to the above. top! Euan was there, moved forward with outstretched hand The guidebook says it is usual and “great route, thanks...” etc. to move into the upper part of I was a shaking jelly. Zero Gully for the last section, as the ridge deteriorates into We‟d set off from The Smiddy scrappy rock, and this looked before 7am and started up the the obvious thing to do. After a Ben from the YH at 8.30. It couple of roped pitches, we/I was dry, with cloud around the made the mistake. Euan took 2000 ft level. As we ascended, the hardwear, I carried the rope. the cloud lifted and as we Euan eased ahead, I got slower gained the CICC hut, we could and into a position which see the bottom of Observatory caused me some concern. By Ridge. Started on the route at moving back to the rock I 11 am. The ridge itself was escaped the ice, but was slow fairly free of snow; we kept the and of necessity, very careful rock pitches quite short, so we getting up it. It might have could see each other most of the been less steep than lower time, leading alternately. down, but more icy. Difficulties were restricted to a few moves per pitch, but some I‟ve learnt a lesson.

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On top we were in breezy, North Pennines Meet, sunny, clear conditions, looking down on the cloud covering the Alston “rest of the world”. At the cairn there were some chaps 27-29 October 2000 digging and pitching tents for On a cool but pleasant evening, the night; we shared their members of the Club began to appear windbreak and ate. It had taken from sundry directions at the Hillcrest us six hours to do the route. We Hotel, Alston, including a hardy few ambled down, through the cloud who were camping, although it was and had moonlight for the last rumoured that one member was in a 1000 feet or so.” camper van. Two members settled for The nightmares stopped after a bunkhouse in Alston, named „The two nights. Mission‟, and reported it to be warm and comfortable, including the free sauna. A glance at the attendance list shows that most had travelled considerable distances. Several Attendance members in the parent hostelry, the The President, Ian Crowther Cumberland Hotel, enjoyed an Adrian Bridge evening meal across the road. George Burfitt On Saturday morning the predicted rain and wind appeared. Alston itself Derek Bush stands several hundred feet above sea Albert Chapman level and the surrounding fells, are wild and bleak with little shelter. The Roger Dix landscape is marked by numerous Iain Gilmour abandoned lead-mine workings and David Handley scattered farm holdings. Some ambitions were tempered to the Dave Hick weather either before or after leaving Gordon Humphreys Alston, but others achieved their objectives despite the wind and rain. Howard Humphreys Two lone venturers went their single Alan Linford way. One to Garrigill along the South Tyne Valley, and the other, a most Dave Martindale senior member, achieved the summit Euan Seaton of Round Hill. He explained that he David Smith was the near completion of his project to climb all the „2000 footers‟ in Barrie Wood England and Wales, of which there are 408, but that he was saving Snaefell for his 90th birthday and might even contemplate some form of The Editor apologises for the late transport to the top. Three members publication of the above account. went to Gregg‟s Hut where they met Dick Philips of Iceland fame. They then returned by what is described as

The YRC Bulletin 113 Summer 2001 a northerly route. Two members decisions had been. Despite the followed the route to Garrigill but weather it had been a very enjoyable then branched north by Ashburn Gill meet and the area was noted down for and Flinty Fell to Nenthead, where the further exploration, perhaps in kinder former activities of lead mining are weather. everywhere to be seen, and from there J P Barton back to Alston. A group of three made for Green Castle and three quarters of the way to Cross Fell Attendance: when wisdom prevailed and a return was made. The Cash Force waterfall was visited with Shiel Burn. Two The President, Ian Crowther, members and their dog (Meg a Ken Aldred Springer Spaniel) followed a route which took in Cow Green Reservoir, John Barton Cauldron Spout and Falcon Clints, Chris Bird High Cup Nick and part of the Pennine Way. At Cow Green Albert Chapman Reservoir they had a sighting of a Alan Clare black grouse. They reported the weather as somewhat wet and windy Derek Clayton with swirling fog. A group of six Roy Denney made their way to Hard Rigg on the Roger Dix boundary between Cumberland and Northumberland, then to Whimsey Stuart Dix Hill, followed by a descent to David Hick Nenthead and a return along the river to Alston. Others made their way Alan Kay along the Pennine Way to Garrigil and Richard Kirby by a return route on the other side of the valley to Alston. It can be David Laughton reported that the pub at Garrigill has a Gerry Lee sensible division between a carpeted Keith Raby lounge area and a flagged public bar where no objection is raised to John Schofield dripping garments and squelching David Smith boots. A large open fire adds to its attraction. Derek Smithson All enjoyed the evening meal at the John Snoad (G) Hillcrest Hotel when the President George Spenceley Elect joined the President for the evening. Sunday morning was again John Sterland cold and wet with the promise of Martyn Thomas more rain to come. It seemed that the whole meet was dispersing homewards or to similar venues without intention of further ventures on the fells. The torrential rain later in the day proved how wise the

The YRC Bulletin 114 Summer 2001

87th Annual Dinner Whoop Hall Hotel, Kirby Lonsdale 18 - 19 November 2000 Once again we were at Whoop Hall for our Annual Dinner. It was also our Millennium Dinner. The venue is becoming a fixture, as it was the sixth successive year we have been there. The “China Party”, using all the latest techniques, had set up a video display of their successful expedition which proved an added attraction to all present. An EGM and an AGM preceded the Dinner and these are reported elsewhere. Thornton Force During the interval before the speeches, entertainment was provided Fleming of the Scottish in the form of two mythical sketches Mountaineering Club replied. Tim of Committee meetings in the years Josephy, the Immediate Past 1900 and 2100. This seemed to be President, proposed a vote of thanks well received, at least no missiles to Ian Crowther for a most successful were thrown at the participants and term of office as President of the the author and principal actor Dennis Club. Armstrong, quite rightly took a bow at The Dinner concluded as always with the end. The others taking part were the singing of “Yorkshire”. Our Darrell Farrant, Alan Linford and thanks go once more to Neil Renton Derek Bush. for his accompaniment on the Our Principal Guest for the keyboard. Millennium Dinner was appropriately our Honorary Member Dr John A. Cheesepress Farrer. He gave us a very interesting speech of his “life and times” as the landlord of the Clapham estate. We are very fortunate to have Dr Farrer as our landlord at Lowstern. The President replied to Dr Farrer in his own individualistic style and one of our youngest and most active members, Alister Renton, proposed in a most erudite manner the toast of “Kindred Clubs and Guests” Bryan

The YRC Bulletin 115 Summer 2001

The After Dinner walk on the Sunday Attendance, 83 members and guests: was around lower Kingsdale initially President, Ian Crowther on the Turbary Road and then across Ken Aldred to Braida Garth finishing at Dennis Armstrong Twistleton Scar End and back to the John Barton cars. It started in miserable wet David Bateman (G) weather but finished in glorious Bruce Bensley winter sunshine and was a fitting end Alan Brown to another successful Dinner Andrew Bull (G) weekend. David Bull Once again the event was organised George Burfitt by George Postill with, as always, the Derek Bush assistance of David Smith. It is Ged Campion worth recording our thanks to George Albert Chapman and David. Iain Chapman Derek Bush Alan Clare Derek Clayton Clifford Cobb

The YRC Bulletin 116 Summer 2001

Sean Collins (G) Gerry Lee Robert Crowther Alan Linford Roger Dix Bill Lofthouse Andrew Duxbury Harvey Lomas Eddie Edkins (G) John Lovett Arthur Evans David Martindale Darrell Farrant Peter Moss Adrian Farrer (G) Rory Newman Dr John A Farrer A Penny (G) Bryan Fleming SMC Shaun Penny Alan Fletcher Mike Pitt David Gamble (G) George Postill Iain Gilmour Alister Renton Mike Godden Chris Renton David Handley Neil Renton (G) Mike Hartland Leigh Rickett (G) John Hemingway Jon Riley David Hick Harry Robinson David Holmes Jim Rusher Jeff Hooper Arthur Salmon Gordon Humphreys Graham Salmon Howard Humphreys Doug Scott AC Jason Humphreys Richard Sealey Raymond Ince Jack Short Richard Josephy David Smith Tim Josephy Michael Smith Alan Kay George Spenceley Mike Kinder David Stembridge Richard Kirby Arthur Tallon Ian Laing Trevor Temple (G) Cliff Large Frank Walker NPC David Large John Whalley David Laughton Frank Wilkinson

Jack Short presses a point on the President, Albert Chapman, whilst Hon.Sec Gordon Humphries and David Smith look on aghast!

The YRC Bulletin 117 Summer 2001

Lowstern, Derek Bush Ged Campion Christmas Meet Derek Collins 8-10 December 2000 Ian Crowther Robert Crowther A weekend of very wet and windy Roger Dix weather did nothing to deter the forty- Iain Gilmour seven members who attended the meet. Friday evening was enhanced Mike Godden by an Atlas Mountains slide show David Handley presented by Hamish Brown for Mike Hartland members interested in exploring the Bill Hawkins area. This was followed by a night of wind roaring through the trees. John Hemingway Perhaps such wind noise induced a David Hick past president to arise at 5.00am and Gordon Humphreys walk over Ingleborough and Pen-y- Ghent before using bush telegraph to Howard Humphreys get someone to return him to Tim Josephy Lowstern. Other members explored Alan Kay the familiar area appreciating becks in Richard Kirby spate and spectacular waterfalls. Gerry Lee The Christmas spirit got underway by late afternoon and was followed by a Alan Linford splendid supper. If this was not Bill Lofthouse enough, the evening was rounded off John Lovett by a spectacular slide show covering David Martindale the 2000 caving expedition to the Gauangxi Province of China. Frank Platt Sunday was still beset by poor Alister Renton weather. Members settled for short Chris Renton walks and early departures home. Harry Robinson David Handley Arthur Salmon Graham Salmon Attendance John Schofield The President, Albert Chapman David Smith Dennis Armstrong Michael Smith David Atherton Derek Smithson Denis Barker Tony Smythe John Barton John Sterland Bruce Bensley John Whalley Alan Brown Frank Wilkinson Hamish Brown (G) Peter Wood (G)

The YRC Bulletin 118 Summer 2001

The Old Hill Inn Meet 12 – 14 January 2001 Your chronicler was not party to the choice of a return meet to the Hill Inn (now the Old Hill Inn) for the first time in ten years, (and for many more than that since it was: the regular January venue), but perhaps the fact that it is the new president’s local had some starting. Quite a number, in at least bearing. With the benefit of hindsight, two separate parties, drove to the meet may have been-more Mallerstang and did Wild Boar Fell. cohesive if catering, apart from the The group I was with also visited the Saturday dinner, had been arranged at strange 'Millennium monument' on the old school which the club booked the other side of the valley beyond for the weekend. The club used the Aisgill summit before refreshing school ten years ago, but in the ourselves at the Moorcock at Garsdale meantime it has been given a make Head. As a point of interest, on over, and is more than comparable arrival, we were thought to be part of with Lowstern for twenty people. In a group from the Leeds Bradford area actuality, only twenty bed-nights were on a days walk using the Settle used over the two days, many Carlisle railway to make it all members either attending only for the possible. Another group set off for Saturday or even staying at Ingleborough with the intension of Gearstones. visiting Horton, and some went on to One thing that could not be faulted add Whernside, and at least one of was the weather. Within a small limit these accomplished the three peaks of error, the sky was cloudless from during the meet by doing Pen-y-ghent arrival to departure, but thick fog was on the Sunday. waiting back over to the east for those The Inn put on an excellent dinner for returning home there. the Saturday, held in the lounge and Friday evening saw bar meals being must have stirred many memories of taken at the Inn, with a reminder to meets and members in the past. We avoid the Lamb Shank which was were subsequently enthralled by booked for the Saturday. There were views of the exploits of the caving no escapades on the low beam group in China. upstairs, or in the barn, or even out on Sunday saw some activity. The the moonlit mountains as of yore. Salmons nearly circumnavigated There were no young members on Ingleborough at the clints level to visit which to inflict these tortures. the club dig coming back over the top. If caving had been on the agenda for Others took advantage of the Saturday, there were no takers. One sparkling weather to keep their member set off early to attempt and muscles in tone. Three went over to achieve the three peaks (counter- Great Knoutberry Hill and back via clockwise), but the rest took a fairly Dentdale and the slopes of Whernside normal breakfast in the Inn before finishing the casting long shadows

The YRC Bulletin 119 Summer 2001 while striding out over the frozen Attendance: ground. President, Albert Chapman Dennis Armstrong Denis Barker Alan Brown Alan Clare Derek Clayton A good meet, but being so close to the Cliff Cobb club cottage and following two other meets in the same area, a little Ian Crowther disappointing especially to the Robert Crowther treasurer/organiser who otherwise did Michael Edmundson, DS’s guest a fine job. Frank Wilkinson Frank Walker, AC’s guest David Handley Gordon Humphreys Howard Humphreys Jason Humphreys John Jenkin Gerry Lee Harvey Lomas John Lovett George Postill Chris Renton Arthur, Salmon Graham Salmon

Moon lit Ingleborough Hill, first of the three David Smith Michael Smith

John Sterland Pen-y-ghent, the second Frank Wilkinson

The YRC Bulletin 120 Summer 2001

Low Hall Garth Meet one reported out on the hills, but a lone member justifying his early 2 – 4 February 2001 arrival by chopping up sufficient fuel to last the evening. After a number of attempts to change the date of the Winter meet at LHG in By the time the cottage began to fill order to achieve those memorable the room was warm and comfortable conditions of twenty years ago it and the usual division of meal venues looked as though the President had hit was sorted out; some preparing their the jackpot this year. On the way to own with others preferring the the cottage on Friday the fingers of delights of the Three Shires. snow in the gullies descending from On Saturday morning the conditions the clouds on Blencathra, Clough had not improved. Breakfast was Head and Whiteside promised well eaten slowly, with regular weather for the weekend. A fortnight earlier reports coming from those sat nearest the conditions on Esk Pike and to the door. Eventually the various Bowfell had been crying out for groups got under way. Derek B., crampons and ice axes and once Arthur and Frank were taken round to above the valley mist we had enjoyed Borrowdale by Richard to return via a typical Alpine day. However, back Langstrathdale, Angle Tarn, Bowfell to reality. About half an hour later the and Crinkle Crags. Derek S. and approach to Little Langdale was Mike S. went over Wetherlam to Brim accomplished in drizzly fog with no

Grey or Kennel Crag and Coniston Coppermines‘ disused workings with Levers Hawse behind

The YRC Bulletin 121 Summer 2001

Fell and then did some sort of a The evening meal was up to the usual traverse under some crags above high standard, in this case any Levens Water. A number of groups mystery being removed by the chose to visit the Grisedale area, one provision of menus on the tables. party taking in Hawkshead and Tarn On the road home on Sunday Hows while another made a round of morning, snowploughs were seen on the Silurian Way to take in the opposite carriageway as a report Satterthwaite and Boggerthwaite. All came over the car radio that the A66 parties reported back in good time to at Brough was closed. A sharp turn find that the Presidential Palace next north avoided this but I hope that the door had been booked by him and the snow was the wet slushy stuff of the Vice President, et al and was available day before and not the crisp, dry, for Presidential Punch, ordinary delightfully packed material that we members being admitted after six enjoyed twenty years ago. That would o'clock. be too much. Ken Aldred Attendance: The President, Albert Chapman David Handley Ken Aldred Dennis Barker Derek Bush Mike Edmundson (G) David Hick Richard Josephy John Lovett David Martindale Frank Platt Chris Renton Arthur Salmon John Schofield David Smith Michael Smith Derek Smithson Bill Todd Frank Wilkinson Alan Wood Peter Wood Derek Smithson in the Halls of Silence near LHG

The YRC Bulletin 122 Summer 2001

North Wales, Oread MC hut Saturday and go home, bird watching and cliff walking on Anglesey; check Tan – Y – Wyddfa on progress on the narrow gauge 23 - 25 February 2001 railway being built from Caernarfon In the previous week members had to Rhyd-Ddu; a walk unfenced roads great expectations of excellent from Pen-y-Groes to Rhyd-ddu which conditions on the tops. An anticyclone gave excellent views of Snowden the over Wales, deep frosts and regular, if Carnedds and Anglesey, forest thin, snowfall reported and catering walking at Beddgelert and Capel by Richard Josephy: a weekend of Curig; cycle tracks alongside the note was possible. YRC epics in these Menai Strait; and a visit to Telford‘s conditions are well known. canal and structures. Derek Bush had difficulty remaining upright on the Members arrived early to get in an waterlogged grass in his hut slippers. extra day testing the conditions fitted Roadside crags were available but out with winter mountain gear and only the locals had rock gear. clothing. In anticipation Derek Bush only packed plastic boots and hut Richard‘s excellent meal of venison slippers. Then the great anticlimax: sausage (from Oxford market) was notices were placed on all entrances to consumed on Saturday evening and the Park and Nantlle ridge three engineers repaired a vacuum cleaner. The hut given a through FOOT AND MOUTH DISEASE clean and members departed home in PLEASE KEEP OUT. fine weather. Alan Linford Members were aware of the outbreak in Northumberland but the committee Attendance. had not anticipated the rapid spread of President, Albert Chapman- the disease. No restrictions were in Dennis Armstrong force when members set of to join the David Atherton meet, it was school half-term and Derek Bush holiday makers from many areas were Alan Clare expected in the Snowdon National Derek Clayton Park. Some members will remember Derek Collins the 1967 outbreak, Cliff Downham Ian Crowther was President, when all Club meets Roger Dix for Oct, Nov, Dec 1967 and Jan 1968 Iain Gilmour were cancelled. Restrictions were Mike Godden lifted in January and at very short David Handley notice the Hill Inn meet resumed Club David Hick activities. Tim Josephy Following this meet all Club meets Richard Josephy were cancelled until further notice. Richard Kirby Alan Linford Here are a few (all in true YRC style) John Lovett of the alternative thoughts and Jim Rusher activities taken to recover the Arthur Salmon situation. Catch the 3.30 ferry to David Smith Dublin, cook the meal on Friday Frank Wilkinson evening, have a double breakfast on Barry Wood.

The YRC Bulletin 123 Summer 2001

Lowstern Presidents residence before the long downhill swoop past the Hill Inn. One 1 May 2001 rider with a cycle computer recorded 40 mph on this section. From Ingleton The inaugural meet of the YRC was the back road was taken to back to held on May Day in glorious sunny Clapham with the hardest climb of the weather. After much unloading of day at least 1 in 5. Dropping down cycles from roof-racks and out of the into Clapham at speed gave the backs of cars, followed by tyre checks impression of coming off Alp d‘Huez with electrically driven compressors with the Chef du route showing the the peleton moved away from way. A grand day out and good Lowstern through the daffodils; training for the Long Ride in June. leaving the gardening section hard at work squirting weeds with toxic fluid, Jeff Hooper, the Club‘s Special cutting the grass and planting Cycling Correspondent snowdrops. A variety of cycles were pressed into service with saddles of Riders: all degrees of hardness. All six of the team crossed the first hazard — the The President, Albert Chapman dual carriageway — without any Alan Brown being mown down by speeding four- wheel drives, to reach Clapham where Derek Collins regrouping took place. The first hard David Handley drag of the day was met before Jeff Hooper Helwith Bridge and seat adjustments were called for. The team were David Smith delayed at Helwith Bridge by promises of a steam train coming through to celebrate the 125th Anniversary of the opening of the line. After fifteen minutes surrounded by rough looking types wearing cloth caps and covered in cameras and sound recording equipment it was decided that the group had rested long enough and the Chef du route called for progress. After all, all the group had seen steam trains before — there was no other sort for major part of their lives. The scenery was magnificent, the conversation scintillating, when breath could be spared and Ribblehead arrived none too soon. At Ribblehead station after examining the museum the steamer arrived, forty minutes late keeping up the traditions from the era to which it belonged. A bit of a drag up from Ribblehead gave a view of the

The YRC Bulletin 124 Summer 2001

The Very Long Bike Ride that day we would be going uphill and into the wind. 23rd June 2001 Some of the latest technology to die Lowstern, 05.10 hours. By mutual for was on the road that day. As is consent a gaggle of riders and bicycles appropriate to a group more at home trundled down the track to the road, in the hills, mountain bikes were where the President was waiting – popular, equipped with map holders with his video camera, not a starting- and saddlebags – the latter containing gun. A few brave souls challenged the spare clothing, mobile telephones, and chill morning air with a few weak possibly bivouac equipment – old jokes. Then bottoms settled into habits die hard, and Tan Hill, looming saddles, wheels wobbled into motion, ahead, was after all, a sort of cyclist‘s and we were away. The Club‘s equivalent of an 8,000 metre peak. dramatic response to the 2001 foot- Dress was in most cases strictly and-mouth crisis, which had wiped practical, no one was intending to die out the June Long Walk, had begun. of exposure on this unusual outing – but this of course meant that they Were the years of training, the gave themselves no chance of relentless mileage month after month, scooping that Best Dressed Rider in wind, rain and darkness, the award. rigorous diet, early nights and total abstinence from all bodily pleasures, Your correspondent, to his great about to pay off for your surprise, arrived at Kirby Lonsdale in correspondent? They were! Later second position (―surprise‖ meaning that day he was to be the proud that he was amazed not to be last, not recipient of the Award for the Best disappointed not to be first). The pit Dressed Competitor – an honour stop, masterminded by Harry entirely due to the generosity of his Robinson with his van full of son who, embarrassed by the flapping nutritious things, was situated at T-shirt he habitually wore, had given Devil‘s Bridge beside the public him for Christmas a special cycling conveniences. Your correspondent top, a colourful lycra creation gingerly rescued a cockchafer from designed for one of the teams of the the urinal - perhaps believing that this Tour de France. benevolent act would, in the eyes of the Tan Hill gods, earn him enough But back to those crucial early brownie points to reach the top. Then moments when there was everything he thundered or swooshed on towards to play for. It is uncertain who had Sedbergh. taken pole position, and a peleton did not appear to arrange itself in any The organisers of the race, sorry ride, measurable way. Participants (we had do need to be praised for their choice been strictly warned not to think of of route, certainly in this early part. ourselves as Competitors) soon got After the soft post-dawn Monet into their own speeds and rhythms and landscape around the Benthams the settled to enjoy the first Stage to sun was now rising over Casterton Kirby Lonsdale, which seemed to be and Barbon with outlines of hills largely downhill with the wind behind behind to remind us of sterner tasks to us. One did not like to dwell on the come. Down in the Lune valley it was disturbing thought that this, by all smooth flat surfaces inviting speed Newtonian law, would mean that later in the cool still air. It was still early

The YRC Bulletin 125 Summer 2001 enough for the lanes to be completely valley at Keld, although in the true empty except for an occasional spirit of mountaineering the real frightened rabbit – rushing across in dangers loomed in the descent where front of an even more frightened phalanxes of motorcycles were busy cyclist. ascending. The route followed the line of the Some wall builders in Thwaite Lune towards Teebay but in the later advised your correspondent about the stages began switch backing on the route. (There was an old waller in western flank of the valley, finally Thwaite, who said, ―Urry oop lad, or making a gut-wrenching climb in the you‘ll be late.‖ So I belted on general direction of Whinfell Beacon. through, to Muker, and – PHEW! Around here your contributor decided The Buttertubs Lane was my fate.) to divest himself of his windproof And it was here that well, a jacket and leg-warmers (for the confessional box is needed. Your uninitiated these are specially for writer GOT OFF AND WALKED. cyclists - comfortable stretchy tubes, While riding, his computer indicated a that cling like suspenders and would groundspeed of between one and two get you arrested if worn in any other miles per hour and falling, while the context). In the gateway to a field a engine temperature was rising farmer questioned him, not about his dangerously. Once dismounted, sexual preferences fortunately, but his overall speed actually increased to opinion on the future of sheep three miles per hour, while the risk of farming. a piston failure or a con rod through After Teebay and mile forty, the ten the crankcase diminished. This happy miles or so to Kirkby Stephen along state continued to a point higher up the A685 was a pain. The road, flat at where the road had so eased in angle first, began to rise and the wind was that a passing pedestrian called out, in front. The route description said ―got a puncture, mate?‖ a stern that heavy lorries had been banned; reminder that it was back to work. plenty seemed to be ignoring this. As Life thrives on contrasts. The other for the ―long lengths of new dry stone side of the Buttertubs pass was like a wall to admire‖, it seemed better to precipice down to Hawes and the concentrate on not getting killed! At computer, later switched to its last the Second Feeding Station hove Maximum Speed mode, indicated that into view at 51½ miles – exactly half a record 41mph had been reached on way in distance, though severely less this section –obtained less from desire than this in ―real terms‖ with the than by inadequate brakes. Pennines to cross. Following a Lotus car rally in the And so to the dreaded Tan Hill. He cobbled streets of Hawes, feeding actual climb was less horrific than station number three appeared, a very expected, your reporter having cut his welcome sight indeed, where your teeth on Lake District excrescences reporter felt strong enough (just) to such as Shap and the Kirkstone Pass. tackle a cheese sandwich. He was But once on top, the moorland humps foolish enough to believe Arthur and bumps seemed to go on for ever. Salmon who said that Ribblehead was Whether the Tan Hill pub was open is ‗just up the road, you‘re nearly there, not known – it seemed better to head and then it‘s all downhill after that.‘ straight down towards the oxygen-rich

The YRC Bulletin 126 Summer 2001

But mind prevailed over matter, and Alternative Perspective that psychological game eventually The Long Bike Ride (substituted for proved effective (‗I may have the the Long Walk which could not be dentist/interview/firing squad coming executed owing to Foot and Mouth up, but in three hours‘ time it won‘t disease), got off to a good start with matter any more‘) participants arriving from early The road from Ribblehead was afternoon Friday. downhill to Horton, but by this time, Routes and general information were with ninety miles clocked cramp was studied eagerly and our host for the becoming a problem. All sorts of weekend provided pie and peas plus tricks came into play – shaking, an assortment of drinks for our stretching, relaxing and just plain evening repast. wishing. But as fast as it could be shifted from one muscle it popped up Saturday reveille was early, with the in another. The steam train aim of a 0500 hours start — or chuntering up the valley was a thereabout. Amazingly, most cyclists welcome scenic diversion. seemed to have set off by 0515, and seventeen riders were on their way. The section from Helwith Bridge to Meal halts had been arranged at Wharfe and Austwick looks terrible Kirkby Lonsdale, Kirkby Stephen, and on the map, but mercifully it seems to Hawes; on a clockwise route of slide round the hills in the north, and approximately 103 miles, including the wind was now benignly behind. 4,800 feet of up hill riding (or Entering the home stretch, the A65 walking). Two shorter alternatives past Clapham, your correspondent were available of 93 and 60 miles. now succumbed to a moment of The weather was excellent for vicious competitiveness. Aware that cycling, and some riders took the by a miracle (or sheer indolence on opportunity to visit various hostelries the part of the rest of the Field) he had for food and drink during their ride. not been overtaken since arriving at the first feeding station in second The first two riders to return to place, he now cast a furtive glance Lowstern, having completed the full backwards – actually a furtive glance route, arrived after 8 and 8.5 hours. sideways, since his neck had seized The last arrival was some 14 hours up like a rusty hinge – just to see how after starting. A suitable and most the others were doing, of course. He welcome meal was received at two remembered the humiliation of once sittings in the evening, and together running a marathon backwards, or at with the ‗Presidents Punch‘ facilitated least it felt like that when almost much lighthearted discussion. every other competitor poured past Such was the importance of this him in the final stage of the race. premier occasion that it was deemed It was OK. There was not a soul in that five prizes should be awarded to sight. Thankfully he eased up on the celebrate notable achievements by pedals and enjoyed the imminent members. All were T-shirts bearing prospect of tea, shower, and flake out the words ―YRC The Long Bike Ride on bunk. It wasn‘t supposed to be a - 2001 - Prize Winner‖. race after all – just a jolly day out on The prizewinners were: the bike! Tony Smythe

The YRC Bulletin 127 Summer 2001 a) Roger Dix for being the youngest and most improved rider of any age. b) Messrs. Renton A, Bensley B, and Attendance Salmon G for contributing the most to the local economy on this day i.e. President, Albert Chapman breakfast at Tebay and three pub stops Ken Aldred en route. Denis Barker c) Tony Smythe who was judged to be the ‗best turned out man and Bruce Bensley machine‘. Ged Campion (dinner) d) Derek Collins for having the Derek Collins inspiration to propose and organize Ian Crowther the ride. Roger Dix e) Richard Gowing being the last member to finish the ride. Mike Edmundson Thanks go to all who organized and Derek English catered for the event. It was an Iain Gilmour excellent weekend and another first for the YRC, showing initiative in Mike Godden adverse circumstances. Richard Gowing Sunday dawned fine and sunny with Dave Handley members dispersing to various locations. One member, no doubt Mike Hartland (dinner) inspired by his prize, decided to cycle Jeff Hooper home to Lancaster. A glutton for John Jenkin punishment some say! Mike Godden Richard Kirby Harvey Lomas Routes. John Lovett Primary Route. Lowstern, Bentham, Tony Penny Gressingham, Kirkby Lonsdale Alister Renton (food). Thence — Tebay, Kirkby Harry Robinson Stephen (food), Tan Hill, Hawes (food), Horton in Ribblesdale, Arthur Salmon Austwick, Lowstern. Graham Salmon 1st Alternative — after Kirkby John Schofield Lonsdale, then Barbondale, Dentdale, Matthew Schofield (G) then as primary route. David Smith 2nd Alternative — after Kirkby Stephen, Garsdale Head, Hawes, then Tony Smythe as primary route. Bill Todd

The YRC Bulletin 128 Summer 2001

It takes a long time to cycle over a Jackdaw hundred miles so some members Kestrel engaged in bird watching on the way. Meadow Pipit Birds identified (heard or seen) are listed below. Oystercatcher Blackcap Pewit Black-headed Gull Redshank Chaffinch Robin Crow Rook Cuckoo Skylark Curlew Snipe Golden Plover Song Thrush Goldfinch Swallow Greenfinch Swift Heron Wheatear House Martin Willow Warbler House Sparrow Wren

David Hick launching his Drascombe Coaster on Ullswater – no walking available due to the Foot and Mouth restrictions

The YRC Bulletin 129 Summer 2001

The YRC Bulletin 130 Summer 2001