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Da Cerveja Como Cultura Aos Territórios Da Cerveja: Uma Análise Multidimensional

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Da Cerveja Como Cultura Aos Territórios Da Cerveja: Uma Análise Multidimensional UNIVERSIDADE DE BRASÍLIA – UnB INSTITUTO DE CIÊNCIAS HUMANAS – IH DEPARTAMENTO DE GEOGRAFIA – GEA PROGRAMA DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM GEOGRAFIA – POSGEA DA CERVEJA COMO CULTURA AOS TERRITÓRIOS DA CERVEJA: UMA ANÁLISE MULTIDIMENSIONAL EDUARDO FERNANDES MARCUSSO Brasília/DF 2021 EDUARDO FERNANDES MARCUSSO DA CERVEJA COMO CULTURA AOS TERRITÓRIOS DA CERVEJA: UMA ANÁLISE MULTIDIMENSIONAL Tese apresentada ao Programa de Pós-Graduação em Geografia – PPG/GEA do Curso de Doutorado em Geografia da Universidade de Brasília/UnB, como requisito parcial para a obtenção do grau de Doutor em Geografia, área de concentração Gestão Ambiental e Territorial. Orientador: Prof. Dr. Juscelino Eudâmidas Bezerra Brasília/DF 2021 EDUARDO FERNANDES MARCUSSO DA CERVEJA COMO CULTURA AOS TERRITÓRIOS DA CERVEJA: uma análise multidimensional Tese de Doutorado submetida ao Departamento de Geografia da Universidade de Brasília, como parte dos requisitos necessários para a obtenção do Grau de Doutor Geografia, área de concentração Gestão Ambiental e Territorial. BANCA EXAMINADORA __________________________________________ Prof. Dr. Juscelino Eudâmidas Bezerra (Orientador) Departamento de Geografia – GEA/UnB __________________________________________ Prof. Dr. Newton Narciso Gomes Junior (Externo) Departamento de Serviço Social – SER/UnB __________________________________________ Profa. Dra. Tatiana de Macedo Soares Rotolo (Externo) Instituto Federal de Brasília – IFB, campus Riacho Fundo __________________________________________ Prof. Dr. Elson Luciano Silva Pires (Externo) Universidade Estadual Paulista – UNESP, campus Rio Claro Data: 14 de abril de 2021 Resultado: aprovado Ficha catalográfica elaborada automaticamente, com os dados fornecidos pelo(a) autor(a) MARCUSSO, Eduardo Fernandes M322c DA CERVEJA COMO CULTURA AOS TERRITÓRIOS DA CERVEJA: Uma análise multidimensional / Eduardo Fernandes MARCUSSO; orientador Juscelino Eudâmidas BEZERRA. -- Brasília, 2021. 403 p. Tese (Doutorado - Doutorado em Geografia) -- Universidade de Brasília, 2021. 1. Cerveja. 2. Território. 3. Economia. 4. Cultura. 5. Governança. I. BEZERRA, Juscelino Eudâmidas, orient. II. Título. É concedida à Universidade de Brasília permissão para reproduzir cópias desta tese e emprestar ou vender tais cópias somente para propósitos acadêmicos e científicos. O autor reserva outros direitos de publicação e nenhuma parte desta tese de doutorado pode ser reproduzida sem a autorização por escrito do autor. ______________________________ Eduardo Fernandes Marcusso iv Dedico as minhas queridas mulheres, esposa Jéssica e filha Eleonora. v AGRADECIMENTOS Um grande projeto requer a colaboração de muitas pessoas. Assim, muitos colegas, amigos e familiares foram importantes para a conclusão deste trabalho. O nascimento da minha filha, um mês após a qualificação, virou meu mundo de ponta cabeça e agora parece que está tudo certo. Talvez eu vivesse em um mundo ao contrário e não soubesse, agora está tudo certo. Eleonora é o meu projeto de vida mais importante. Primeiramente, gostaria de agradecer aos meus familiares, que caminharam comigo nesta jornada. Sou grato à minha esposa Jéssica, que sempre esteve ao meu lado, suportando os momentos de dificuldade e as pressões impostas pela vida acadêmica. Sem seu apoio este trabalho não seria possível. À minha filha Eleonora, que foi um alento durante esse processo, expulsando todos os meus fantasmas com um simples sorriso. Aos meus queridos e malditos irmãos Marcus e Paulo, que influenciaram em minha decisão de iniciar o doutorado. À minha mãe Márcia, cuja ajuda foi essencial nos momentos mais difíceis e de grande estresse devido à conjunção das obrigações do trabalho, casa, criança e doutorado em meio à pandemia. Ofereço um agradecimento especial à Universidade de Brasília (UnB), pela qualidade e gratuidade do ensino, além do ambiente de profusão de ideias presente sobretudo na academia. A todos os colegas e amigos que lá fiz, ao meu orientador e amigo Juscelino pelo companheirismo e direcionamento, aos colegas de estrada que atravessaram e ainda estão percorrendo esse percurso, sempre nos ajudando. Agradeço especialmente ao holandês Celso, ao santista Sidney, à baiana Fernanda, à chilena Fiorella e ao candango Marcelo. Também sou grato ao Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento, onde trabalho atualmente, pelo apoio a pesquisa, ainda que de forma parcial. Agradeço ainda ao amigo Vinicio, que me acompanhou nesta trajetória, ao Carlos e ao Alan, com os quais pude dividir inesquecíveis experiências nos finais de semana em que fazíamos as cervejas para beber a vida. Aos professores da UnB e, em especial, aos membros das bancas de qualificação e defesa, Profa. Dra. Shadia Husseini de Araújo, Prof. Dr. Newton Narciso Gomes Junior, Profa. Dra. Tatiana de Macedo Soares Rotolo e Prof. Dr. Elson Luciano Silva Pires. Foi uma enorme satisfação ter em minha banca o professor Elson, que me acompanha desde o início de minha vida acadêmica na UNESP de Rio Claro - SP, orientando-me na iniciação científica e no TCC e como membro avaliador em minhas bancas de mestrado e doutorado. Muito obrigado, Jacaré! Devo-lhe uma cerveja de fabricação própria. vi Também sou grato aos entrevistados nesta tese, que contribuíram com visões críticas em relação à cerveja: Marcelo Scavone, Carolina Oda, André Junqueira, Ronaldo Rossi, Raimundo Padilha, Alexandre Zahn, Alexandre Bazzo, Marco Falcone, Thiago Rosário, Diego Simão, Thiago Galbeno etc. Peço desculpas, caso tenha me esquecido de alguém, pois depois desse turbilhão que foi o doutorado, mal me lembro onde deixei meu copo de cerveja! Agora é celebrar: Saúde! vii “No mundo da comida e da bebida, existe uma família abençoada com a vida eterna: a dos fermentados. Há um apelo primitivo no que é gerado por fermentação: a sensação de algo selvagem” Michael Jackson “Um bebedor de cerveja que se reconheça como tal é, antes de tudo, um homem ou uma mulher que não deseja embriagar-se se o quisesse, poderia dar-se a bebida dez ou mais vezes mais fortes do ponto de vista alcoólico, para igual quantidade de líquido. Assim, o que ele ou ela quer mesmo é ter o prazer, a alegria, a satisfação, o encantamento que só a cerveja pode proporcionar-lhe.” Antônio Houaiss viii RESUMO Dos nômades aos businessmen, a cerveja esteve presente no transcorrer do desenvolvimento da humanidade com repercussões que extrapolam o ato de consumo da bebida, interferindo diretamente na ordem econômica, cultural e política da sociedade. A presente tese visa analisar a noção de Cerveja como Cultura (CCC), a partir de hábitos e comportamento das diferentes sociedades no tempo e no espaço, e a formação dos Territórios da Cerveja (TC), discutindo aspectos econômicos, culturais e políticos que envolvem a bebida em distintas formas de poder e apropriação do território. Para isso, realizamos ampla revisão bibliográfica sobre os conceitos de território e cultura, além de analisar a rede de produção da atividade cervejeira. Também utilizamos dados estatísticos, coletas de informações setoriais de órgãos públicos e privados e realizamos de entrevistas e questionários com profissionais do setor cervejeiro. Adotamos uma abordagem multidimensional com aportes de áreas como arqueologia, biologia, história e sociologia, de modo a confirmar a hipótese da pesquisa acerca da constituição dos Territórios da Cerveja. Como resultados, verificamos que os Territórios da Cerveja são constituídos a partir das múltiplas relações de poder (surgimento de novos territórios e territorialidades) e dos diferentes usos do território (multiterritorialidades) por indivíduos ou grupos sociais que têm na cerveja um elemento de mediação. O caráter mutidimensional e integrador dos Territórios da Cerveja permite o entendimento da configuração de territórios, expressa através das dimensões cultural, econômica e política. Com relação aos territórios culturais, os indivíduos criam e dão sentido a práticas cotidianas e formas de vida, utilizando a cerveja como forma de congregação, festas, rituais religiosos e base para o desenvolvimento de técnicas de produção, conformando laços cujo resultado é a expressão de identidades territoriais. Os territórios econômicos da cerveja são formados pela presença de fixos e fluxos engendrados por agentes econômicos “do campo ao copo”, como indústrias, empresas de comercialização, serviços, transporte e logística, configurando territórios de domínio da cerveja Pilsen e territórios das cervejas “artesanais”. Em relação ao território político, verifica-se a constituição de redes territoriais zonais e/ou reticulares, formadas pela ação política de vários segmentos do setor, com destaque para as experiências de governança do território. Por fim, concluímos que a cerveja é um elemento central na cultura formada a partir de relações sociais que envolvem o alimento, a bebida, as cerimônias, a economia e a própria sociabilidade. Portanto, é também veículo de relações econômicas e de poder de diversos processos (i)materiais simbólicos e múltiplos usos do espaço. Dessa forma, a cerveja pode ser considerada um dado constituinte e cocriador de territórios, os Territórios da Cerveja. Palavras-Chave: Cerveja, Território, Economia, Cultura e Governança. ix ABSTRACT From nomads to businessmen, beer followed the course of humanity, reverberating beyond consumption and dire directly interfering in the economic, cultural, and political social order. This thesis aims to analyze the notion of Beer as Culture (BC), based on the habits and behavior of societies in time and space, and the formation
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