Troop 280 Master Program

January 31, 2013 Table of Contents

The Purpose and Benefit Of This Program ...... 1 Getting Started ...... 1 White ...... 4 Yellow ...... 6 Green ...... 10 Blue ...... 16 Red ...... 20 Black ...... 28 And Beyond ...... 28

2 The Purpose and Benefit of the Knot Master Program The purpose of this Program is to help participants learn and retain knowledge on , how to tie and use them.

This booklet also gives the basic foundation of the Knot Master Program as well as diagrams for a majority of the knots within the program.

Getting Started To get started in the program, you must first obtain your 5’ length of white paracord, your carabineer and your Knot Master Program sign-off card.

Next work on your knots so that you know each knot that you want to test on without having to ask for help, or without having to refer to a drawing.

When you feel that you are ready to test, find someone that is at or above the level that you are working on, i.e. if the knot you wish to be tested on is in the Yellow category, then the person testing you must be completed in Yellow or above. Also the Knot Master card may only be signed by a Patrol Leader or above.

Once you have all of the knots for a given level signed off you will go to a Scoutmaster to have a quick conference and to tie a few of the knots in that level. When completed you will in your old color and receive your new color .

For the Red level, you will need to complete a “camp gadget”, here are some ideas of what that requirement might entail.

• Pack holder • Table • Camp entrance/gateway • Paper Towel Holder • Towel Rack • Rain Gauge • Flag pole • Weather rock • Fire Danger Station • Trash bag holder • Chief kit holder • Utensil holder • Zipper pulls for tents

To achieve the level of Black you will need to complete a project that encompasses at least two different knots, one of which is NOT part of the Knot Master Program.

Note: This can be a decorative lanyard for a knife or tool handle, an embellishment on a hiking stick, something that will show that you can use these skills in combination with each other.

3 White The white level consists of 4 knots:

 Square Knot  Two Half Hitches  Taut Line Hitch  Solomon Bar Knot

Square Knot

The Square Knot is a common and simple binding knot. It is used to connect two of equal size. You can loosen the square knot easily by either pushing the ends toward the knot or by "upsetting" the knot by pulling back on one end and pulling the other through the loops.

Two Half Hitches

This is a reliable and useful knot for attaching a rope to a pole or boat mooring. As its name suggests, it is two half hitches, one after the other. To finish, push them together and snug them by pulling on the standing part.

Taut Line Hitch

The Taut-line hitch is an adjustable loop knot for use on lines under tension. It is useful when the length of a line will need to be periodically adjusted in order to maintain tension. It is made by tying a Rolling hitch around the standing part after passing around an anchor object. Tension is maintained by sliding the hitch to adjust size of the loop, thus changing the effective length of the standing part without retying the knot. It is typically used for securing tent lines in outdoor activities involving camping.

4 Solomon Bar Knot This is also known as the Cobra Stitch, it is the star of the “flat” knots. It can be used to enhance lanyards, to create fobs, to create bracelets, to create belts, straps for bags of pouches, straps for flashlights, etc.

This interesting knot can also be used to "store" paracord inside the knot itself in a way that can be easily pulled out in case of need, that is why you will often see bracelets or belts labeled with the word "survival" meaning you can use them to get cord in case of need.

The Cobra Stitch can be done with a single strand of paracord, with 2 strands or with 3 strands depending on the kind of result you want. You can leave a loop of cord outside of the cobra stitch to be used as an attachment point.

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Yellow The Yellow level consists of 6 knots:

 Figure 8 Follow Through  Square  Shear Lashing

Bowline The bowline has been called the king of knots. It will never slip or jam if properly made and, thus, is excellent for tying around a person in a rescue. Begin by formatting an in the standing part. Then take the free end up through the eye, around the standing part and back where it came from.

Timber Hitch The timber hitch is a knot used to attach a single length of rope to a piece of wood. This is an important hitch, especially for dragging a heavy object like a log. It will hold firmly so long as there is a steady pull; slacking and jerking may loosen it. The timber hitch is also useful in when attaching two timbers together. When it is used for dragging, a simple hitch should be added near the front end of the object to guide it.

To make the knot, pass the rope completely around the wood. Pass the running end around the standing part, then through the loop that you have just formed. Make three turns around the loop then pull on the standing part to tighten. Take care that you double the rope back on itself before making the three turns, or it won't hold. Three are recommended for natural rope such as jute, whereas five turns are needed on synthetic rope like nylon.

Clove Hitch The clove hitch, along with the bowline and the , is often considered one of the most essential knots. It consists of two identical half hitches made successively around an object. It is most effective used as a crossing knot. Although it can be used as a binding knot, it is not particularly secure in that role. Because it passes around an object in only one direction, it puts very little strain on the rope fibers.

Note: For this level, the hitch is to be tied using the end of the rope, not by making two loops and passing over the end of an object.

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Figure 8 Follow Through The figure-eight knot is very important in both and rock as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. We routinely see this knot when we visit Reading Rocks; this is the knot that is used to attach the belaying line to the climber’s harness.

7

Square Lashing

A

Square Lashing is used to hold two poles that cross each other (usually at a 90- degree angle although not necessarily)

 Used to fasten two spars or poles together.  Start by crossing the two sticks or dowels at perpendicular or 90 degree angles.  Make a Clove Hitch on the vertical stick or dowel near the point where the two sticks cross. This fastens the rope to the stick.  Weave the rope under and over the crossed sticks alternately.  To do this, run the rope over the horizontal bar, around behind the vertical bar, then back over the face of the horizontal bar on the left.  Tighten snugly, then bring the rope behind the vertical bar and up the right front side of the horizontal bar.  Repeat this three or four times, keeping the rope tight.  When you have finished weaving the lashing, then "FRAP" it by wrapping the rope between the poles (in front of the back stick and in back of the front stick), pulling tightly. This tightens the connected poles.  Finish your lashing with another Clove Hitch.

8 Sheer Lashing

Comments

A sheer lashing is often used to bind adjacent poles together. It is also a good way to reinforce a broken or weak pole. The frapping turns used to tighten the lashing may be omitted and replaced with wedges inserted between the poles.

A loose Sheer Lashing made around the ends of two poles will allow the poles to be opened out and used as an A- frame. It can also be used to form a tripod just like the Figure-of-eight lashing.

1. Lay out the poles. For most lashings you will want to lay the poles side by side with the butt ends aligned (thicker ends). 2. Tie a clove hitch around one of the outside poles and secure the standing part by wrapping it around the running part (or trap it under the first turns). Note: If you only lashing two poles together it may be better to simply tie the clove hitch around both poles and pull tight. 3. Pass the rope around the poles to form a first turn. 4. Pulling each turn tight made a series of turns until the lashing is at least as long as the combined diameters of the two poles (usually a set of 4 to 6 turns will be sufficient). 5. Tighten the lashing with a frapping turn by taking the rope down between two poles at one end of the turns. This should be difficult to do if the turns have been pulled tightly (as they should be). Bring the rope back up between the poles at the other end of the lashing and pull tight. Repeat 2 or 3 times. 6. Start the second set of frapping turns by taking the rope around the center pole and frapping. Take the second set of frapping turns in the opposite direction to the first set. 7. Repeat for any additional poles. 8. Pass the rope once more between the poles then around one pole and tuck it under itself to form a . Pull this tight and make a second half hitch forming a clove hitch by taking the rope around the same pole and tucking it under itself.

9 Green The Green level consists of 8 knots:  Sheetbend   Trumpet Knot  Clove Hitch on a  Thief’s Knot   Diagonal Lashing  Tripod Lashing

Sheet Bend The sheet bend is the most important knot for joining two rope ends, especially if the ropes are of different sizes. Sailors named it in the days of sailing ships when they would "bend" (tie) the "sheets"(ropes attached to the clew of the sail).

Begin with a bight in the larger rope. Then weave the end of the smaller rope through the eye, around the bight, and back under itself. Snug it carefully before applying.

Sheepshank This knot is used to shorten a rope that is fastened at both ends. Take up the slack, then make an underhand loop and slide it over the blight and pull tight. Do the same to the other end to complete the knot. The sheepshank is only a temporary knot as it stands. But it can be made more permanent by adding a second half hitch to each end.

Trumpet Knot Similar to the Sheepshank but tied differently, the visual difference is the three strands within the sheepshank will be parallel while the three strands within the trumpet knot will form an X.

10 Clove Hitch on a Bight The same as the clove hitch but it is tied using loops, thereby it is able to be tied using any part of a rope, even in the middle.

Thief’s Knot No it is not a square knot. This knot is not really practical, but it is an interesting knot. It is said that sailors used to use this knot to tie the pull straps that closed the bags with their personal belongings. If the owner later returned and found a square knot instead of the thieves knot, he/she knew that someone else (a thief) had untied the thief's knot, rummaged through the bag and retied a square knot to close it.

Bowline on a Bight

The bowline on a bight forms two loops, but they must be of the same size. Start by making a good- size bight and an overhand loop. Bring the end loop and bring it down and around the entire knot. Set the knot securely before putting weight on it.

11 Diagonal Lashing A Diagonal Lashing is used to bind two poles together that cross each other but do not touch (or are likely to be pulled apart) when their ends are lashed in place in a structure. Often used for securing diagonal braces used to hold a structure rigid.

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Use

Diagonal lashing is used to bind poles together that cross each other but do not touch when their ends are lashed in place in a structure.

Comments

The diagonal lashing gets its name from the fact that the wrapping turns cross the poles diagonally. The diagonal lashing can be used to bind poles that cross each other from 90° to 45°. If the angle between the poles is less than 45° a shear lashing should be used. The diagonal lashing makes use of the timber hitch to pull poles together that are not touching each other. The timber hitch allows the poles to be drawn together without changing the relative positions of the poles. [NOTE] If a square lashing were used to bind poles that do not touch, the beginning clove hitch would pull the cross pole toward the clove hitch causing unnecessary bowing of the cross pole and could also produce a force that would act along the length of the pole to which the clove hitch is tied. These additional forces, if strong enough, can place unnecessary strain on other lashing within the structure causing the structure to twist and fail.

12 Narration

1. Tie a timber hitch diagonally around both poles. 2. Start the wrapping turns on the opposite diagonal to the timber hitch, by pulling the rope tight so that the poles contact each other. 3. Take 3 to 4 wrapping turns; keep the wrapping turns parallel; pull each wrapping turn tight. [NOTE] If the wrapping turns are allowed to cross, the increased friction between the strands of the rope will make it difficult to tighten the wrapping turns. 4. Start the second set of wrapping turns by going past and around the vertical pole.NOTE] Going around the pole the rope allows the direction of the rope to be changed without crossing the first set of wrapping diagonally. 5. Take 3 to 4 wrapping turns; be sure to keep the wrapping turns parallel; pull each wrapping turn tight. 6. Start the frapping turns by going past and around one of the poles. [NOTE] Going around the pole with the rope allows the direction of the rope to be changed without crossing the wrapping turns diagonally. 7. Take 2 to 3 frapping turns; keep the frapping turns parallel. Be sure to pull each turn tight. 8. End the lashing with a clove hitch. Take the first half hitch of the clove hitch by going past and then around one of the poles. Lock the half hitch tight against the lashing by working it tight. 9. Take a second half hitch around the pole. 10. Work the second half hitch tight against the first half hitch so that the clove hitch is locked against the lashing.

If very smooth rope is used, the lashing can be made more secure by adding a third or fourth half hitch to the clove hitch.

Tripod Lashing The tripod lashing is a shear lashing that binds three poles together at the same point. The tripod lashing gets its name from the fact that its most common use is the construction of a tripod. The tripod lashing can be used just about anywhere in a structure that three poles cross each other at the same point and the same time in the sequence of construction. Tripod lashing takes two main forms; with racked wrapping turns (the rope is woven between the poles) and with plain wrapping turns (the rope is wrapped around the poles without weaving the rope between the poles). When the lashing is made with racking turns the rope contacts each pole around its entire circumference; this contact makes the tripod lashing with racking turns the most secure form of tripod lashing: therefore tripod lashing with racking turns should be used when safety is important. However, for light structures where there would be no danger if the lashing slipped, the faster to tie tripod lashing with plain wrapping turns may be used.

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Description

A shear lashing around 3 poles.

Use

To bind three poles together, for the construction of a tripod. To bind three poles together that contact at the same point in a structure.

Comments

The tripod lashing is a shear lashing that binds three poles together at the same point. The tripod lashing gets it name from the fact that its most common use is the construction of a tripod. The tripod lashing can be used just about anywhere in a structure that three poles cross each other at the same point and the same time in the sequence of construction. Tripod lashing takes two main forms; with racked wrapping turns (the rope is woven between the poles) and with plain wrapping turns (the rope is wrapped around the poles without weaving the rope between the poles). When the lashing is made with racking turns the rope contacts each pole around its entire circumference; this contact makes the tripod lashing with racking turns the most secure form of tripod lashing: therefore tripod lashing with racking turns should be used when safety is important. However, for light structures where there would be no danger if the lashing slipped, the faster to tie tripod lashing with plain wrapping turns may be used

Laying Out The Poles

For most tripod lashings, lay the pole side by side with the butt ends aligned. The alignment of the butts of the pole insures that the tripod legs are the desired length

Note

The practice of laying the center pole in the opposite direction to the outside poles creates several problems. When the poles are laid in opposite directions the wrappings must be put on loosely so that when the center pole is rotated to its proper position the lashing is tightened around the poles. If the wrappings are put on too tight, the rope is stretched causing damage to the rope fibers, therefore weakening the lashing. On the other hand, if the rope is wrapped two loosely, the lashing will not tighten enough when the center pole is rotated and the lashing will be able to slip along the length of the pole. Either way, the rope to loose or the rope too tight, a dangerous situation is created.

14 Setting Up A Tripod

Set up the tripod by crossing the outside poles so that the cross point of the poles is under the center pole. Crossing the outside poles under the center pole causes part of the load that is placed on the tripod to be taken up by the wood to wood contact of the poles.

15 Blue The Blue level consists of 8 knots:

 Surgeon’s Knot  Bowtie Knot  Double Fisherman’s Knot  Cleat Hitch  Back Splice  Clinch Knot  Trucker’s Hitch  Alpine Butterfly Knot

Surgeon’s Knot The surgeon's knot is a simple modification to the square knot. It adds an extra twist when tying the first throw, forming a double , thus adding friction which makes the knot more secure. This knot is named for the fact that it is commonly used by surgeons in situations where it is important to maintain tension on a suture. Surgeon's knots are used in fly fishing as well as in tying packages.

Bowtie Knot The Bowtie knots, also known as the "Tomfool Knot", is used as handcuffs and has become quite famous, owing to its having baffled a number of "Handcuff Kings" and other performers who readily escaped from common knots and manacles. It is made like the clove hitch on a bight, and then the loops are passed through the open so as to form a double loop or bow. If the hands or wrists are placed within these loops and the latter drawn taut, and the loose ends tied firmly around the central part, a pair of wonderfully secure handcuffs results.

The knot is also known as a hobble knot for similar reasons, from the idea that the knot was sometimes used on the legs of horses to limit the distance their riders had to walk in the morning to retrieve them.

Double Fisherman’s Knot The double fisherman's knot or grapevine knot is a bend, or a knot used to join two lengths of rope. This knot and the triple fisherman's knot are the variations used most often in climbing, arboriculture, and search and rescue. The knot is formed by tying a , in its form, with each end around the opposite line's standing part.

Usage

A primary use of this knot is to form high strength loops of cord for connecting pieces of a climber's protection system. Another common use for this knot is to back up a critical knot, such as a harness tie-in knot or single-line rappel rigs. In this use, the running end is tied around the standing end of the rope, so that it cannot slip back through the knot.

16 Other uses

This knot, along with the basic fisherman's knot can be used to join the ends of a necklace cord. The two double overhand knots are left separated, and in this way the length of the necklace can be adjusted without breaking or untying the strand.

Cleat Hitch The Cleat Hitch is used for several things, to tie a boat to a dock or to tie a halyard to a mast or flag pole.

Back Splice This is also sometimes called the end splice’, it is used as a permanent fastening at the end of a rope to prevent unravelling. However, as it causes a bulge at the end of the rope, which might prevent it from passing through a block, for most purposes it is better to whip the end of a rope.

Unlay the end of the rope about 12 to 15 centimeters. Hold the rope upright, where the unlaid strands begin, and make sure that the three strands hang down over your hand with an equal distance between each of them.

Make a Crown Knot to start the splice. This is done as follows: Take one strand (1) and lay it over its neighbour (2), working anti-clockwise. Bring down strand 2 over strand 1 and 3. Take the end of strand 3 over strand, 2 and down through the loop made by strand 1. Tighten each strand in turn by pulling downwards. If you have tied the Crown Knot correctly, the strands will hang down the rope with an equal distance between them.

You are now ready to make the first ‘tuck’.

With the or nail, lift one of the strands of the rope immediately below the Crown Knot and pass the end of one of the strands underneath it. Pull tight.

17 Working anti-clockwise, take the end of the next strand and pass it underneath the next laid strand of the rope. Then take the third end and pass it under the third laid strand of the rope. Pull tight. You have now completed the first ‘tuck’ and if you have done it correctly the strands will hang down with an equal distance between them. After every completed tuck this should be the case.

Now complete the second tuck by passing each of the three ends under a strand in turn as described. above. At the end of your completed tuck the strands should hang down with an equal distance between them.

Four sets of tucks will be enough, after which the ends should be trimmed off. If you wish to taper your splice, after the fourth tuck unravel each of the ends in turn and cut one-third of the yarns off. Tuck again with the thinner strands; reduce the strands by another third and then finish off the splice with another tuck. Trim off the ends.

Clinch Knot The Clinch knot provides one good method of securing fishing line to a hook, lure, or swivel. The "improved" version used here includes an extra tuck under the final turn. It is commonly used to fasten the leader to the fly. It is not recommended if you are using over 12lb test line.

When tying it, it is important to wind the loops as a neat spiral round the standing line. Hold the loops under your fingers as you wind the line on.

Trucker’s Hitch The Trucker's Hitch has the distinctive feature of providing a three to one mechanical advantage when being tightened. It is a valuable knot - particularly for securing loads or tarpaulins.

There are several variations of the knot, all of which use a loop in the standing part of the rope as a make-shift pulley in order to obtain a 3 to 1 mechanical advantage. The diagram above is widely used today. It is composed of three parts: a loop, a purchase, and two half hitches. An eye is formed by twisting the rope after which a loop is passed through the eye. The purchase is then created by passing the free end round the hook and then back through the loop. After tightening, the tail is used to tie two half hitches below the original loop.

18 Alpine Butterfly Knot The Alpine Butterfly provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Load can be safely applied: from the loop to either end of the rope; between the two ends with the loop hanging free; or, to the loop with the load spread between the two ends.

It is useful anytime a secure loop is required in the middle of a rope. A good example is when a line of hikers wish to hook on along the length of a shared rope.

19 Red

The Red level consists of 9 knots and one camp gadget:

 Monkey Fist  Chinese Button  Turks Head Knot  Daisy Chain  Knot  Square Sinnet  Round Sinnet   Make a camp gadget

Monkey Fist

A monkey's fist is a type of knot, so named because it looks somewhat like a small bunched fist/paw. It also looks somewhat like a volleyball. It is tied at the end of a rope to serve as a weight, making it easier to throw the line, and also as an ornamental knot. This type of weighted rope can be used as an improvised weapon, called a slungshot by sailors. The knot is usually tied around a small weight, such as a stone, marble, tight fold of paper, or a piece of wood. A thicker line will require a larger object in the center to hold the shape of the knot. Another variation of the monkey's fist knot omits the use of an external object as a weight and rather uses the spare end which gets tucked back into the knot. This results in a nicer looking knot of a lesser weight, minimizing the potential danger of hitting someone with the knot when hauling line. The tag end can either be loose or knotted and tucked inside

Chinese Button

20 This was the knot which Chinese tailors traditionally used as buttons on jackets. To tie this knot, lay out the rope on a table and follow the over and under sequence exactly as in the pictures. It looks complicated, but just take it step by step. Picture 4 is identical to picture 3, but with blue lines to indicate more clearly which parts of the rope cross over other parts of the rope. After you tie the knot as in picture 3, slowly and carefully tighten the knot and work it into a button shape (picture 5).

A variation of this knot can be used as a lanyard knot.

This knot can be tied with the two ends coming out at the same point, or on opposite sides, either version is acceptable.

Turks Head Knot

Turk's Head knots are often tied around cylindrical objects. To tie a Turk's Head around a post of some kind, first tie a basic Overhand Knot around the object (picture 1). Bring the working end of the rope behind the object (to the left of the Overhand Knot and around to the front at the bottom of the object, then thread it through the Overhand Knot as in picture 2. Bring the working end back towards the left, over the first strand and under the second strand (picture 3). Now bring the working end behind the object (to the left of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom again, then thread it over-under-over as in picture 4. Now bring the working end behind the object (to the right of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom, and you have completed a Turk's Head. If you thread the working end of the rope through the knot again, precisely following the original path, then tighten carefully, you will have a two-ply Turk's Head.

Daisy Chain

21 Like the Braid Knot, this can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start somewhere in the middle of the rope by tying a (picture 1). Push a bight from the end of the rope through the loop of the Slip Knot (picture 2), and continue pushing a new bight through each previous bight, working your way towards the end of the rope. Push the end of the rope through the final bight in order to "lock" the Chain Stitch (picture 3). To untie this knot, simply remove the end of the rope from the final bight, then pull both ends of the rope apart from each other. This will untie all of the Slip Knots. Kids love this one because all of the knots seem to "magically" disappear at once when both ends are pulled!

Braid Knot

This can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start by looping the rope around twice in order to create three strands to work with (picture 1). Begin "braiding" the three strands (just like braiding hair) by bringing the bottom strand over the center strand, then bringing the top strand over the new center strand (picture 2). Continue alternating in this way (picture 3) until you have braided as far as you can go (picture 4). As you are braiding the rope, the end of the rope will become twisted and tangled (which is starting to happen in picture 2). Simply pull the end of the rope out of the tangle periodically (picture 3) to keep it untangled.

Square Sinnet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lWFn3iyH0I

Round Sinnet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj6kGuZ2_m8

22 Eye Splice

The Eye Splice is the strongest type of rope loop (an ‘eye’). Unlay the rope for a sufficient distance from the end, depending upon the size of eye required and the size of the rope. Normally, about 12 times the diameter of the rope is about right.

If you are a beginner in the art of splicing, it is a good idea to put on a temporary whipping around the rope at the point where the strands begin to unlay. This whipping should be cut off after the splice is formed.

1. With the eye towards you and the standing part of the rope away from you, open out the three strands.

2. Take the middle strand 2 and pass it over strand ‘c’, under strand ‘b’, and out between strands ‘a’ and ‘b’.

3. Take strand 1 over strand ‘b’ and tuck it under strand ‘a’. Pull it through.

4. Tuck strand 3 under strand ‘c’ and pull it through. Tug on each strand in turn. If your start has been done correctly the three strands should have an equal distance between them.

Continue forming the splice by making four tucks in the same way as you did for the Back Splice. At the end of the fourth tuck, trim off the end of the strands, or taper the splice.

Prusik Knot First create a loop using a double fisherman’s knot.

Then tie the Prusik knot as shown below attached to a different length of rope, preferably of a larger diameter.

Advantages

Climbers carry Prusik cords mainly for emergency use, as they are lighter than other options. Prusiks are fast to place on a rope, and with practice can be placed with one hand. The loops of cord can be used as slings, and are thus multi-functional in a climbing environment.

Prusiks will work around two ropes, even two ropes of different diameters. Prusiks provide a strong attachment that will not damage or break the rope, and so are used in some rope-rescue techniques. Prusiks are good to use in hauling systems where multiple rope-grabs may be needed, and where mechanical rope-grabs are not available.

23 Prusiks are far less likely to damage the main rope than mechanical rope-grabs such as a jumar. A prusik which is overloaded will initially slip, causing no damage. If loaded to great excess, the worst result is that it slides until the heat of friction causes physical failure of the prusik cord, rather than the rope. Mechanical rope-grabs when overloaded will sometimes damage the sheath of the rope, or in extreme cases sever the rope entirely.

Depending on which variant is used, Prusik hitches have the advantage of working in both directions. Most mechanical rope-grabs work like a ratchet, moving freely up the rope, but grabbing when a load is placed down on them. Traditional Prusiks (such as those shown below) will grab when pulled by the tail, either up or down, and will slide either way when pushed by the barrel.

Although the Prusik Climb technique may be seen as outdated by some, the US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute.

Disadvantages

Prusiks are ineffective upon frozen wet ropes. This is due to the necessity of friction for the Prusik to function. Mechanical devices (such as jumars) to grab the rope are available that are easier and faster to use, but heavier, more expensive, and bulkier.

After being put under a great deal of weight, the Prusik can be quite constricted and difficult to untie. This varies, depending on the diameter of the primary rope.

Applications

In addition to being a useful rope-grab for rope-rescue applications, Prusiks are popular for:

 Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Below The Device: A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the climber be incapacitated or need to use both hands. Careful setup of the rappel backup is critical. An 'AutoBloc' or 'French Prusik' knot is most widely used in this application.

 Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Above The Device A Prusik is placed above the descender and controlled with the hand not being used as the brake hand. This configuration allows an easier and faster transition from rappeling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the Prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a self-belay below the device.

 Prusiking or ascending the line: Two prusiks used in tandem can be used to climb a fixed rope. One prussik is attached to the belay loop sewn onto the front of a harness, and the other attached below that is a longer length of cord reaching to one foot. The climber can then stand up in the foot loop, slide the prusik hitch of the waist loop further up the rope and then "sit" down on it. Once sitting, they can slide the foot loop up the rope and repeat the process.

 Escaping the Belay: In a -climbing situation, should the climber become incapacitated in a position where they cannot be safely lowered to the ground, the belayer must escape the belay in order to effect rescue. After locking the rope in the belay device with one hand, the belayer can tie a prusik to the rope with the other hand, and then use the prusik loop to transfer the load to a fixed anchor. The belayer can then go to effect rescue or get help.

 Rescue Applications Rope rescue teams, such as in swiftwater rescue or in high-angle technical rescue, use a Prusik hitch as a 'ratchet' or progress capture device. A prusik with a prusik minding pulley is used to hold a load while tensioning a line. The pulley advances the prussik up the line and prevents it from going back out. This can be used to raise a patient or tension a highline for a , or in boat-on-tether and similar rescue operations.

24  Handcuffs A length of rope that has been tied so that the Prusik knot is tied around itself leaving two large loops can be quickly used as handcuffs by slipping the loops around the detainee's hands and pulling the running ends tight and securing them with a square knot. When the detainee attempts to pull his hands apart, the Prusik tightens in the same way as when it is tied to another rope. To create Prusik handcuffs, tie a loose Prusik around one of your fingers and then slip it off, leaving the knot shape intact. Then slip the free ends of the rope through the "hole" in the knot where your finger used to be. Alternatively, use a , which is the more usual knot to accomplish this task.

 Testing rigs for tensile strength and pull force RepRap researchers have used the Prusik knot to secure a fiber in order to measure the pull force of an extruder mechanism and estimate the tensile strength of a fiber.

(From Wikipedia)

25 Black The black level consists of completing a project that includes at least one knot within this guide and one knot that is not included in this guide. The project can be either decorative or functional in nature, but should be something that takes some time to complete.

And Beyond This in reality is just a small view of the world of knots, if you have found this interesting please keep exploring and be sure to share anything that you think might be of interest to others.

Some other places for knots:

Animated Knots by Grog

Fusionknots.com

Netknots.com

Morethanknots.com

Pioneering Projects from Camp Gilwell

PioneeringProjects.org

More Pioneering

Acknowledgements: This program was developed for our Troop after finding a similar program that had been started by BSA Troop 994 in Woodstock Georgia. Many thanks to Glenn Beaupre’ and his Troop for building and sharing this.

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