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Tourism Development in the Black Hills During the Great Depression

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Tourism Development in the Black Hills During the Great Depression Copyright © 2005 by the South Dakota State Historical Society. All Rights Reserved. Building a Vacationland: Tourism Development in the Black Hills during the Great Depression SUZANNE BARTA JULIN In the summer of 1935, Merrill Tucker of Rice Lake, Wisconsin, toured the Black Hills of western South Dakota with a friend. Over the course of a few days, the two young men drove through Custer State Park and visited the communities of Lead, Deadwood, Spearfish, and Belle Fourche. After returning home, Tucker wrote to an acquain- tance, "I think the Black Hills are the best vacation land in the United States."^ Tucker's statement reflects the sentiments of thousands of travelers who found refreshment in the Black Hills during the Great Depression ofthe ig3os. The region's mountain climate ofFered relief to visitors who endured heat and drought in their own locales. Its ori- entation toward economical automobile tourism allowed them to travel on their own timetables and keep within their own budgets. Its novel attractions distracted them from their daily struggles and fears ofthe future. Ironically, the hard times ofthe 1930s helped to establish the Black Hills as a motoring travelers' "vacation land." Tourism proved an eco- nomic boon to the region, drawing not only out-of-state, money- spending visitors, but also public programs that provided jobs and aided development of a tourism infrastructure. The business of tour- ism during the Great Depression contributed to a growth in the popu- lation of the Black Hills in the face of statewide population loss and helped to create an identity that has lasted through the intervening I. Rapid City Daily Journal, 6 Aug. 1935. Copyright © 2005 by the South Dakota State Historical Society. All Rights Reserved. 292 South Dakota History VOL. 35, NO. 4 decades.^ The Black Hills emerged from the 1930s with a tourism in- dustry and a landscape profoundly affected by both private enterprise and public programs. The success of tourism in the Black Hills in the 1930s was not an isolated phenomenon. Despite widespread unemployment and gen- eral hard times, Americans continued to travel for pleasure during the Great Depression J An increase in the numbers of employees who re- ceived paid vacations and the establishment of the forty-hour work 2. Elizabeth Eiselen, "A Geographic Traverse across South Dakota: A Study of the Subhu- mid Border" (Ph.D. diss., University of Chicago, 1943}, p. 230, addresses these population changes. For a discussion of the Great Depression in South Dakota, see Herbert S. Schell. History of South Dakota, 4th ed.. rev. John E. Miller (Pierre: South Dakota State Historical So- ciety Press, 2004), pp. 277-97. 3. Tourism declined slightly in the first years of the decade but then began to rebound. Ni- agara Falls, for instance, counted more than 3 million visitors in 192g, less than 1.5 million in 1932, and nearly 2.5 million in 1934. The Grand Canyon entertained about 185,000 peo- ple in 1929, approximately 105,000 in 1933, and more than 140.000 in 1934. Giiidy S. Aron. Working at Play: A History of Vacations in the United States (New York: Oxford University Press. 1999}, pp. 238-39. Touring the countryside by automobile became a popular, affordable pastime dur- ing the 1930s. These tourists enjoy a roadside picnic. Copyright © 2005 by the South Dakota State Historical Society. All Rights Reserved. WINTER 2005 Tourism in the Black Hills 293 week encouraged a positive view of leisure and recreational travel. Americans had embraced the automobile as an economical means of transportation in the 1920s, and affordable cars enabled them to con- tinue enjoying relatively low-cost trips. Businesses that catered to cus- tomers of moderate means—roadside tourist cabins, for instance- further encouraged travel on a budget. Finally, New Deal programs utilized public funds to put citizens across the country to work im- proving and building tourist-related facilities and amenities. Such programs encouraged the development of state and local parks and re- gional planning efforts aimed at increasing recreational opportuni- ties, as well.4 These factors were particularly important in the Black Hills, where tourism was a relatively new venture. The setting for a major gold rush beginning in 1874, the Black Hills were opened to non-Indians in 1877 after the United States government took the land from the Lakotas and other tribes who held it under the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868. The region soon attracted merchants, ranchers, town-builders, and professionals, in addition to prospectors and miners.5 A forested oasis in the semiarid, sparsely populated Northern Great Plains, the Black Hills contained beautiful scenery but lacked transportation arteries and tourist amenities, as well as a population base to provide significant numbers of visitors. Nevertheless, by 1881 promoters were establishing a mineral-springs health spa in the southern Black Hills, and, within a dozen years. Hot Springs had become a resort town with relatively luxurious hotels, sophisticated social events, numerous bathhouses, a train depot, and many activities for travelers to enjoy.6 4. ibid,, pp. 238. 244-45; Linda Flint McClelland, Presenting Nature: The Historic Land- scape Design of the National Park Service, igi6 to 1942 ([Washington, D.C.]: National Park Service, Department of the Interior, 1993), p, 195; John C. Paige, The Civilian Conservation Corps and the National Park Service, ¡933-^942: An Administrative History ([Washington, D.C.|: National Park Service, Department of the Interior, 1985), pp, 7-19, 39, 60-63, 67; Jesse Steiner, Research Memorandum on Recreation in the Depression. Social Science Research Council Bulletin no. 32 (New York, 1937), pp, 56-60. 5. For a discussion of the Black Hills gold rush and the American Indians' loss of the Black Hills, see Schell, History of South Dakota, pp. 125-57. 6. Suzanne Julin, "South Dakota Spa: A History of the Hot Springs Health Resort. 1882- 1915," South Dakota Historical Coi/cLtiom 41 (1983); 205-26. 245-56. Copyright © 2005 by the South Dakota State Historical Society. All Rights Reserved. 294 I South Dakota History VOL. 35, NO. 4 Hot Springs was among the first resort towns in the Black Hills, oücnng bath- houses, social events, and fine accommodations such as the Evans Hotel, shown here. The success of the Hot Springs resort industry encouraged the growth of tourism in the surrounding area. Guests made day trips to nearby Wind Cave, which became a popular local attraction and even- tually a national park. Cascade Springs, south of Hot Springs, de- veloped its own attractions to draw visitors, who could explore the surrounding terrain, hunt for fossils and artifacts, and take leisurely walks and buggy rides. Entrepreneurs in other areas of the Black Hills also developed businesses aimed at tourists. Theodore Reder dammed a steep valley north of Custer to create Sylvan Lake, and his wife Eliza- beth designed the three-story hotel Reder and his brothers built on the lakeshore. Sylvan Lake quickly became a popular vacation spot and gathering place for Black Hills residents. In 1900, Fred and Albert Michaud claimed Jewel Cave, west of Custer, and spent the next half decade developing the site as a tourist attraction. In 1908, Theodore Roosevelt designated Jewel Cave a national monument.7 7. Ibid., pp. 232, 251-52; [essie Y. Sundstrom, Pioneers and Custer State Park: A History of Cwster State Park and Northcenlral Custer County {[Custer, S,Dak.]: By the Author, 1994). pp. 90-92; Karen Rosga, Jewel Cave: The Story behind the Scenery, ([Us Vegas, Nev,]: KC Publica- tions, 1998), pp. 34-36, Copyright © 2005 by the South Dakota State Historical Society. All Rights Reserved. WINTER 2005 Tourism in the Black Hills 295 Although the people involved in these and similar enterprises rec- ognized the potential of tourism in the Black Hills, the industry grew slowly during the first decades of the twentieth century. After World War I, with automobiles widely available and residents of the coun- try's heartland enjoying a measure of prosperity, the Black Hills be- gan to draw increasing numbers of tourists. Efforts by local commu- nities to build roads that gave travelers access to the surrounding scenery bore fruit, attracting motorists infatuated with their new ma- chines. Custer State Park, established in 1919, proved especially ap- pealing to these tourists. The park was the conception of Peter Nor- beck, South Dakota governor from 1917 to 1921 and United States senator from 1921 to 1936. Norbeck devoted a great deal of effort to developing the park into a site that would attract and entertain motor- ing travelers, allowing them to view scenery and wildlife from their cars and providing them easily accessible accommodations and other amenities.^* "We are looking mainly for tourists now," Norbeck told Custer State Park Board secretary John A. Stanley in 1921.9 Custer State Park was not intended solely as a wildlife refuge or a means to protect scenery; it was also meant to bring visitors to the Black Hills and the state. Despite the advances in Black Hills tourism during the early 1920s, the industiy remained largely a local one. Tourism business operators were quite satisfied to draw visitors from eastern South Dakota and bordering states, and the populace viewed mining, logging, ranching, and commerce as the region's economic mainstays. Those attitudes changed dramatically in 1927, when President Calvin Coolidge spent his summer vacation in Custer State Park and well-known sculptor Gutzon Borglum began to carve a mountain named Rushmore. Cool- idge's visit focused national attention on the Black Hills as news sto- 8. Suzanne Barta Julin, "Public Enterprise: Politics, Policy and Tourism Development in the Black Hüls through 1941" (Ph.D. diss,, Washington State University, 2001), pp, 81-82, 87-88.
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