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COMPLIMENTARY $3.95 2019/2020 YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PARKS , &

ACTIVITIES • SIGHTSEEING • PRESERVATION EVENTS • TRAILS • HISTORY • MAPS • MORE

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WELCOME S:7.375” SO TASTY EVERYONE WILL WANT A BITE. T:8.375” Welcome to the Black Hills and Badlands of ! As you explore our fine state, I’m confident you’ll find some of the best scenery, most unique attractions and friendliest people in the country. Our scenic drives, such as and the 70-mile Scenic Byway, will surprise you with amazing views around every corner. Just 50 miles east, you’ll find a moon-like landscape in Badlands . If you need to stretch your legs, you’ll find more than 400 miles of nature walks and hikes. South Dakota is also home to two of the world’s largest Chad Coppess/South Dakota Dept. of Tourism mountain carvings: patriotic Mount Rushmore National Me- Governor & First Lady Linda Daugaard morial and Crazy Memorial, a tribute to Native Ameri- cans. I encourage you to visit both and learn the history and story behind each of these magnificent . I also encourage you to take a drive through , the country’s second largest state park, where abounds. Along Wildlife Loop Road, you’ll have a chance to see antelope, deer, prairie dogs, “beg- ging” burros and the park’s 1,300-member bison herd. In fact, Austin-Lehman Adventures named Custer State Park one of the world’s Top 10 Wildlife Destinations. In addition to all of this, the Black Hills weaves in family attractions that have been around for generations, colorful ©2019 Preferred Brands International. reserved. rights All Native American culture, vibrant Old West history, an abun- dance of outdoor adventure, two of the world’s longest caves and several unique festivals and events. This Oh, Ranger! guide to the region was created in part- nership with American Park Network. I hope you enjoy your time in South Dakota, and you’ll visit us again soon in the land of Great Faces and Great Places.

Sincerely,

TASTY BITE® is all-natural and perfect for the trail. Look for the yellow pouch in the Dennis Daugaard international food aisle.* Governor tastybite.com *Keep wildlife wild; Don’t feed the animals. | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 1

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FINAL Client: Tasty Bite APPROVAL SIGNATURES ROUND(s) 3 Filename: 19tas_2967_Q2_Print_Oh-Ranger.indd SIZE / Date: 4-2-2019 2:32 PM MECHANICAL SPECS (w x h) FONTS & IMAGES PROOF FORMAT Job #: 2967 Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Fonts TRAFFIC Insert Date: 4/1 Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Knockout (HTF49 Liteweight), Acumin Pro Condensed (Light), Pubs or Loc: PROD. Oh Ranger Viewing: 5.375” x 8.375” Acumin Pro (Black, Regular, Bold) Magazine Description: None Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Images STUDIO Scale: 1” = 1” Print Tasty Bite Final 032919-CMYK.psd (CMYK; 448 ppi, 494 ppi; AD Notes: None ACTUAL SIZE (w x h) 66.93%, 60.7%), Tasty_Bite_Logo.ai (17.81%), Tasty Bite Final 032919-Product.psd (CMYK; 536 ppi; 55.95%) CW Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Mekanism Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Inks CD 640 Second St Viewing: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black SF, CA 94107 5.375” x 8.375” BM 415.908.4000 Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Gutter: None Designer: Dustin Page Printed at: None CLIENT LODGING & DINING CONTENTS

Unforgettable Adventures. Welcome 1

What’s New! 4 American Park Network® publishes OhRanger. com, Oh, Ranger! ParkFinder™ and Oh, Ranger!® guides —a collection of visitor guides for public Plan Your Visit 6 lands all across America­—and operates Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi in parks and public lands. American Important Numbers 10 Park Network is an official partner of the National Forest Foundation, National Parks Conservation Association, National Fish and Wildlife Lodging & Dining 12 Foundation, American Hiking Society and the Student Conservation Association. History & Culture 13

Publisher & Editor-in-Chief MARK J. SAFERSTEIN Mount Rushmore 16 Associate Publisher & Executive Editor The Making of Rushmore 18 Joel S. Saferstein Group Sales & Partnerships Director 24 Alex Frenkel

EDITORIAL / PRODUCTION Centerfold Map Editors: Monette A. Bailey, Daniel Johnson, Jacqueline Kehoe, Amanda McConnon, Exploring the Black Hills 27 Julie McCool, Danielle Taylor, Wendy Willis Proofreader: Scott Tabor 29 Production Manager: Mario Arce Graphic Designers: Karla Aldana, Dennisse Cruz, Tatiana Hurtado, Yamileth Recinos Things To Do 30 DIGITAL Camping 36 Technology Manager: Scott Falconer

ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING Walking & Hiking 37 (212) 581-3380 [email protected] Who’s Who at the Park 39 Business Development: Randy Burton, Mary Pat Kaleth, Pat Keane, Craig King, Kristi Rummel Nature & Wildlife 41 Feel-Good Savings. Operations Manager: Matthew Price American Park Network Just for Kids 44 41 East 11th Street, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10003 Photography 46 Heed the call of adventure with great insurance coverage. @OhRanger 15 minutes could save you 15% or more on RV insurance. ©2019 APN MEDIA, LLC · All Rights Reserved If You Only Have a Day 48 Oh, Ranger! and American Park Network are registered trademarks of APN Media, LLC. Cover: Bison roaming in Badlands National Park (Shutterstock)

GET THE APP! The publisher of this guide and the advertisers herein are not geico.com | 1-877-434-2678 | Local Office affiliated with, or endorsed by, the . IT’S FREE! DOWNLOAD NOW FOR MORE INFORMATION For answers to all your questions, Distribution requests Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or go to in all situations. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC [email protected] OhRanger.com 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2019 GEICO Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ installation/sponsorship [email protected] WHAT’S NEW! WE’RE ALL CONNECTED

As a young man, John Muir, the naturalist known as, “Father of the National Parks,” Mark, Joel & Alex – connecting in parks! had an accident that left him temporarily blinded. It changed his life forever. When he science. I often find inspiration in parks. In its regained his sight, he emerged into the light traditional form, yoga was about joining with ever-determined to pursue his dreams of the collective universe. So, too, is Muir’s quote, exploration. Fortunately for the world, Muir’s best illustrated by an example from Yellowstone. trials led him to help move Congress to set When wolves were reintroduced there after a aside Yosemite, one of his many contributions 70-year absence, the rampant population to our nation’s preservation movement. could no longer leisurely nibble on willows, graze When faced with adversity, we have but in open meadows or congregate by the rivers. In two choices. We can either rise above our a short period of time, the forests and meadows circumstance or succumb to our demons of began to regenerate. Song birds appeared. doubt, fear, resentment and apathy. While Beavers flourished, building dams, which Muir was lucky to have his sight return, his created habitats for otters, muskrats and ducks. subsequent efforts drew strength from hope, Cooler waters, shaded by more trees, attracted compassion, kindness and love to rise up different species of amphibians and fish. Tree from personal adversity. roots stabilized the river banks, diminished Lately, it feels like we’re all dealing with erosion and even changed the geography of the too many hurdles. Every hour, “breaking” park! Indeed, pick out anything by itself and we news spews forth accounts of tragedy and quickly find that everything is connected. divisiveness. It was with this backdrop that I Now is the time to seek out connection— SOMEWHERE was preparing to teach a restorative yoga class, whether in a park, a yoga studio or anywhere to create a safe environment for my students you find inspiration—to find strength to rise up BETWEEN and provide an hour’s worth of peace and quiet and overcome the obstacles that face us all… to carry out into the world. What theme would capture their imagination and neatly underscore STUNNING our human need for connectedness? When teaching, I try to use examples that marry ancient tradition with contemporary and SURREAL

GET CONNECTED AT YOUR FAVORITE PARKS! VISITUTAH.COM Parks are about enjoying nature, but what if you want to share a great picture or are awaiting an important email? If you’re looking to add connectivity to your park, or if you already have Wi-Fi and would like help adding content or generating sponsor revenues, please let us know at [email protected].

4 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | PLAN YOUR VISIT

South Dakota’s Black Hills are home to over 200 miles in length, it is the third-longest one of the most famous memorials in the cave in the world. Wind Cave is also one country: Mount Rushmore, depicting four of the largest and most complex known prominent presidents in America’s history. caves in the world. Both caves offer ranger- Carved into South Dakota granite, George guided tours and activities! Washington, , and stare out GETTING TO THE BLACK HILLS at the surrounding region. By Car: I-90 runs just north of the region The South Dakota Badlands are sure to the gateway towns of Spearfish and St- to amaze all who venture to the park. The urgis. You can get free state highway maps stunning reds, oranges and sand tones from the South Dakota Office of Tourism by reveal breathtaking . The rocks’ calling (605) 773-3301 or (800) 732-5682; sharp edges pierce the sky while prairie or visit travelsd.com. intertwines itself through the rugged land- By Air: Rapid City Regional Airport, lo- scape. Ironically, the originally proposed cated 10 miles southeast of Rapid City, name for the Badlands was Teton. provides easy access to the Black Hills Wind Cave and Jewel Cave offer untamed, area. Flights to and from Phoenix, Las Ve- underground beauty. Jewel Cave grabbed its gas, Chicago, Dallas, Newark, Los Ange- name from its shining calcite crystals, and at les, Minneapolis, San Francisco, Charlotte, Shutterstock

Once you hit the park’s boundary, inconspicuous prairie transforms into Martian rock formations.

6 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | PLAN YOUR VISIT

Atlanta, Denver and Salt Lake City are avail- PETS MeetAnother able on United Express, Delta, Allegiant Badlands National Park and Jewel Cave and American Airlines. National Monument require that pets be kept on a leash no longer than six feet. Great Face. BLACK HILLS VISITOR They are allowed in developed areas such INFORMATION CENTER as campgrounds, picnic areas, parking The visitor information center is open daily areas and roads. It is important to keep from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the winter, 8 a.m. to pets away from wildlife, as they can 6 p.m. in the summer. The center, located transmit disease. Pets are not allowed on the north side of Interstate 90 at Exit 61 on trails, in backcountry areas or public in Rapid City, provides free brochures, travel buildings. guides and maps. The retail shop features lo- Pets are not permitted anywhere in cal crafts, books and park passes, and fishing Mount Rushmore National Memorial, licenses are also sold here. The center is lo- apart from parking areas. There are, how- cated at 1851 Discovery Circle, Rapid City, SD ever, dog-friendly exercise areas located 57701. For information, call (605) 355-3700. at the edge of the main parking lot.

WEATHER SERVICE STATIONS Summer daytime temperatures in the Gas stations are readily available in Hill Black Hills average around 80°F and higher. City, Keystone and along all the major Bring comfortable clothing, a hat and sun- thoroughfares of local communities. It is screen. Evenings cool down significantly with important to remember to fill up before more noticeable temperature drops in higher exploring the more remote areas of the elevations. In the fall, sunny days and crisp Black Hills. temperatures are common, though snow- storms may occur in October. Winter temperatures range from 40° to

–20°F, and icy roads and limited visitor ser- Shutterstock vices require that you plan your trips carefully. Even in the spring, the weather is often cold and wet. It is recommended that you bring warm clothing and rain gear just in case. …AFTER MOUNT VISITOR SERVICES RUSHMORE, VISIT CODY, AND YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TO GUIDED TOURS COME FACE-TO-FACE WITH ADVENTURE. Local companies offer bus tours to Mount Rushmore, Black Hills National Forest, Custer State Park and Crazy Horse Memo- rial. Contact Dakota Tours at (800) 456-4461; 8Stagecoach West at (605) 343-3113; or Black Hills Tour Company at (605) 515-3237 Feral donkeys are one of many species in the for more information. Badlands that should be viewed from a distance.

8 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | Plan your trip today at CodyYellowstone.org or call 1-800-393-CODY PLAN YOUR VISIT PLAN YOUR VISIT

IMPORTANT NUMBERS FEDERAL RECREATION LANDS PASSES

NATIONAL PARKS A federal recreation pass is helpful if you plan to visit many national parks, forests or other (605) 433-5361 federal lands. For information, call (888) 275-8747 or visit store.usgs.gov/pass. Badlands National Park nps.gov/badl

(605) 673-8300 Type Cost Availability Details Jewel Cave National Monument nps.gov/jeca Annual $80 General Public This one-year pass is available on site, by phone (605) 574-2523 Pass $20 Seniors (62+) or online (not available at Mount Rushmore). Mount Rushmore National Memorial nps.gov/moru Senior This lifetime pass is available on site (not including Mount $80 U.S. residents age 62+ (605) 745-4600 Pass Rushmore), online or via mail order. ID required. nps.gov/wica Military U.S. active military members This one-year pass is available on site. Free LOCAL VISITOR ASSOCIATIONS Pass and their dependents ID (CAC Card or DoD Form 1173) required.

(800) SDAKOTA (732-5682) or Access U.S. residents with perma- This lifetime pass is available on site or via mail South Dakota Office of Tourism Free (605) 773-3301 Pass nent disabilities order. ID and documentation required.

Black Hills, Badlands & Lakes Association (605) 355-3600 Volunteer 250 cumulative volunteer Inquire locally to obtain information about this Free Pass service hours with NPS one-year pass. Custer Chamber of Commerce (800) 992-9818

Deadwood Chamber of Commerce (800) 999-1876 SPECIAL SERVICES - so keep a safe distance at all times. When Hill City Chamber of Commerce (605) 574-2368 Facilities accessible to visitors with in doubt, use your zoom lens. Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce (800) 325-6991 disabilities are indicated throughout this guide by this symbol: -. These will vary DO NOT FEED THE ANIMALS Keystone Chamber of Commerce (605) 666-4896 by park and activity. For additional in- Remember that all animals in the parks Lead Chamber of Commerce (605) 584-1100 formation, please call (605) 574-2523. are wild. DO NOT feed them. When ani- For an additional resource, consult Easy mals begin to associate humans with Rapid City Chamber of Commerce (605) 343-1744 Access to the National Parks, which is food, they lose their natural fear of people. Spearfish Chamber of Commerce (800) 626-8013 published by the Sierra Club and available These encounters can result in damage or Sturgis Chamber of Commerce (605) 347-2556 in most bookstores. personal injury. Give animals as much space as possible. Wall Chamber of Commerce (605) 279-2665 REGULATIONS & SAFETY Bison and elk can cause significant dam- Emergencies 911 age if they charge into cars. When humans It is always important to keep a few basic get too close, animals can be frightened CAMPING RESERVATIONS rules in mind to ensure a safe and enjoyable and feel threatened, which sometimes re- National Forest Campsite Reservations (877) 444-6777 trip. It is better to be safe and prepared rather sults in attacks. than in an unpleasant or risky situation. Respect wildlife at all times and do not AMERICAN INDIAN CULTURE leave garbage or food behind. Garbage Heritage Center () (605) 867-5491 PRAIRIE DOGS attracts animals to areas such as camp- You may spot a few (or many!) prairie sites, resulting in encounters best avoided. Heritage (605) 367-4210 dogs during your Black Hills adventure. Wherever you are, it’s best to follow a Tribal Government Relations (605) 773-3415 While adorable, these animals have a “leave no trace” policy. This is best for surprisingly strong bite and can carry you, for other visitors, and for all of South transmittable diseases—like the plague— Dakota’s abundant wildlife.

10 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 11 LODGING & DINING HISTORY & CULTURE

Accommodations are not available within enettes; swimming, paddleboating, fishing, At the close of the 18th century in NPS Mount Rushmore National Memorial, but hiking, rock climbing nearby. Sylvan Lake what is now South Dakota, the dominant inns, motels, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts and Lodge Dining Room offers fantastic views Sioux were at the height of their power. campgrounds are plentiful throughout the with fare such as buffalo, freshwater trout Comprised of three major tribes—Yank- Black Hills. Forever Resorts operates Cedar and wapiti (elk). BLD ton, Santee and Teton—they were ex- Pass Lodge within Badlands National Park. 3. State Game Lodge President Calvin ceptional horsemen, skilled hunters and Advance reservations are strongly recom- Coolidge made this stone-and-wood lodge superior warriors. The Sioux tribes had mended, especially in the summer. It’s best to his summer White House in 1927. It has no written language, but their history and call six months to one year in advance. Visit seven historical rooms with an adjacent motel heritage were entrusted to storytellers foreverresorts.com for more information. and cottages. The lodge is located in Custer and recorded by “winter counts”—draw- 1. Cedar Pass Lodge and Cabins Located State Park off of U.S. Highway 16A. (888) ings painted in a spiral on animal hides. within Badlands National Park, the lodge 875-0001 • custerresorts.com AMENITIES The Sioux were divided into bands and and its new, eco-friendly cabins are open April The lodge is close to hiking, fishing and a then again into smaller, extended family 20 through October 27. Its location near park summer stock theatre at the Black Hills Play- groups known as tiyospaye. bi- headquarters makes it the perfect starting house. State Game Lodge Dining Room son, or tatanka, and processing the meat, Native people lived on this land for millennia, point to explore the area. (877) 386-4383 • serves South Dakota specialities like buffalo, hide and bones were tasks for the entire long before it was designated a National Park. cedarpasslodge.com - AMENITIES Air-con- pheasant and rainbow trout.BLD tiyospaye. They built earthen lodges and ditioned cabins; gift shop with turquoise, sil- 4. Carvers’ Marketplace Located at the base teepees of buffalo hide while their eastern from Napoleon of France for three cents an ver, pottery, Sioux quillwork, books, film and of the monument, this expansive dining facility cousins lived in bark-and-mat wigwams. acre. The land deal included most of what local jewelry. Cedar Pass Lodge Restaurant at Mount Rushmore has plenty of options: would become South Dakota. serves everything from trout and steaks to Choices include espresso, ice cream, wraps NEWCOMERS tacos. Wine and beer are also available. The and salads, or a full-course meal. Guests can As European immigrants flooded the LEWIS AND CLARK dining room has a view of the Badlands. enjoy their selections inside near the Dakota eastern , white settlers grad- With a new deed to an immense and BLD slate fireplace or on the terrace on a bright ually moved westward seeking fertile land largely unexplored territory, Jefferson 2. Sylvan Lake Lodge Located at the inter- summer’s day, all in full view of the memorial. and suitable town sites. sent the Corps of Discovery into the section of Highways 87 and 89, Sylvan Lake The marketplace is open daily 8 a.m. to In the 1700s, French-Canadian explor- American West in 1803. Led by Jeffer- Lodge has 67 rooms, some of which overlook 9 p.m., 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. in winter.Closed ers began mapping the with son’s personal secretary, Meriwether Sylvan Lake, a dining room and a cozy lounge. Christmas Day. Menus are seasonal and an eye on the pelts and hides they could Lewis, and Lewis’ friend William Clark, (605) 574-2561 • custerresorts.com AME- subject to change in winter. • xanterra.com buy from the American Indians and sell the expedition set out to chart the Mis- NITIES guest cabins with fireplaces and kitch- -BLD Photo: Matthew Staver back East. Adventurers and brothers Fran- souri River, map the supposedly short di- cois “The Chevalier” and Louis-Joseph vide to the Columbia River and introduce La Verendrye­ claimed the region for King the concept of American government to Louis XV in 1743 at Fort Pierre, near the American Indians encountered en route. present-day town of the same name. The 31-member party met little resis- Trappers and mountain men had been tance from tribes as they passed through trading with native tribes for decades when South Dakota. The journals of Lewis and 1 2 3 4 Thomas Jefferson became the nation’s Clark frequently refer to the wide-open KEY third president. His policy of westward spaces and black herds of bison they expansion led to the 1803 purchase of the viewed from vantage points along the Breakfast Lunch Dinner Wheelchair Access 828,000-square-mile Louisiana Territory Missouri River.

12 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 13 HISTORY & CULTURE HISTORY & CULTURE

LAND TREATIES ­infamous attack. Hopelessly outnum- As the push for western expansion con- bered, Custer and his entire force of more tinued, the federal government entered than 200 soldiers were killed. Congress into a series of treaties with the Sioux, reacted quickly and began punishing even culminating with the Fort Laramie Treaty the peaceful Sioux. A new treaty was en- of 1868. This treaty established the Great acted which ceded tribal land in the Black Sioux Reservation and granted all lands Hills to the federal government. from the Missouri River west to the Big- Following ’s death in 1890, horn Mountains of western Wyoming to Big Foot, the hereditary chief of the the tribes. Soon, however, the well-inten- Minniconjou Sioux of the Res-

tioned treaty would be broken. ervation, became seriously ill with pneu- Clockwise top from Library left: of Congress monia. He decided to move his band to GOLD RUSH the Pine Ridge Reservation to join Sioux In 1874, , chief Red Cloud. led the first official white expedition into As they neared , the Black Hills. When Custer’s dispatches after an exhausting 150-mile journey, Big confirmed the presence of gold in the Foot and his band of 350 men, women area’s creeks and coulees, gold rush fe- and children were confronted by the U.S. ver flared. As treasure seekers swarmed cavalry. During the confusing encounter, into the region, ­federal troops futilely at- a shot rang out and troops began firing tempted to cordon off the Hills to protect indiscriminately, killing more than 200 tribal property boundaries. Negotiators in Sioux, including Big Foot and his daugh- Washington, fearing war, encouraged the ter. Today, a solitary stone memorial tribes to sell the land for cash, which they marks the site of the tragic Massacre at desperately needed to survive as bison Wounded Knee. populations dwindled. Negotiations failed. The federal gov- DAKOTA BOOM ernment ordered all tribal members to In the 1880s and 1890s, new lands return to their reservations. Army troops opened up to homesteaders, gold was were assembled to round up all “hos- harvested from the Black Hills, riverboats tiles” and return them to their reserva- ran the rivers and railroad tracks were laid tions by force, if necessary. In response, to new town sites. By 1889, the popula- Hunkpapa Sioux leader and medicine man tion of South Dakota was large enough Sitting Bull summoned 10 tribes of the to warrant statehood, and on November Sioux to his camp in Montana Territory. 2 of that year, South Dakota became a Together, they discussed their options, but U.S. state. no consensus was reached. In 1973, Wounded Knee was back in the news again, the site of a 10-week BATTLES AND LOSSES standoff between American Indians and On June 25, 1876, in the valley of the federal marshals. Two American Indians Clockwise from top: Explorers Lewis and Clark created some of the earliest maps of the area while Little Bighorn River, Sitting Bull and his were killed during the conflict, which forging westward; Gutzon_Borglum_on_mountain, credit: NPS; tgold_panning; credit: SD Shutterstock; Carving_mount_rushmore_historic, credit: Shutterstock; Sitting_Bull_by_D_F_Barry_ 4,000 warriors were encamped when helped raise awareness of the plight of na- ca_1883_Dakota_Territory, credit: Barry Ca; George_armstrong_custer_shutterstock_238058260- Custer and his troops mounted their tives in the United States at that time. magic, credit: Shutterstock.

14 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 15 MOUNT RUSHMORE

MOUNT RUSHMORE mation center. The award-winning audio tour GIFT SHOP is available in English, French, Spanish, Ger- Xanterra Travel Collection® operates the man and Lakota. Fred Harvey Trading Company, a gift shop Mount Rushmore National Memorial ture lighting coincides with the park’s eve- For $8, rent the Mount Rushmore that offers fine collectibles and mementos. is open year-round except December 25. ning lighting ceremony. The ceremony Self-Guided Tour: A Living Memorial. You’ll find clothing, wildlife posters, post- There is no admission charge, but there is begins at 9 p.m. from May 31 through Au- This tour includes photos and video, in cards, fine jewelry, local American Indian a parking fee (valid for one year from date gust 10 and 8 p.m. from August 11 through addition to audio. art and a book section. The gift shop is of purchase) of $10 per car; $5 for seniors; September 30. On October 1, winter hours open from 8 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. (summer) active military are free. The Federal Recre- take affect (8 a.m. to 5 p.m.) and there is no RANGER PROGRAMS and from 8 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (winter). ation Lands Pass does not cover the fee. evening program. Note: The lighting cere- The National Park Service (NPS) of- mony may be affected for 2019 renovations. fers a variety of interpretive programs, LOST AND FOUND GETTING TO MOUNT RUSHMORE including children’s programs and Presiden- To report a lost or found item, please Car: The most direct route by car is via RENOVATIONS tial Trail walks. Consider visiting the Lakota, contact the NPS at (605) 574-3465. I–90: Take exit 57 to Highway 16 (Mount If you’ve been to Mount Rushmore be- Nakota and Dakota Heritage Village as you Rushmore Road) and continue on to the fore, it won’t look the same next time walk down the Presidential Trail. Inquire at PARKING FEES memorial entrance. From Rapid City, go you’re here. The federal government has the information center or Daily parking passes are $10 per car; $5 southwest on Highway 16 for 23 miles. allocated $14 million for upgrades to the Visitor Center for the schedule. per car for seniors. Active military are free Air: Rapid City Regional Airport, located memorial: the stone pavers that lead to the (ID required). Buses should check with the 10 miles southeast of Rapid City, is the Grand View Terrace will be replaced and the SCULPTOR’S STUDIO parking authority ahead of time to deter- closest airport. Avenue of Flags will be significantly wid- The Sculptor’s Studio is being renovated mine the parking fee. Train: No rail service is available. ened. During 2019, the terrace will likely be and expected to reopen in early June 2019. closed; visitors will still be able to see the Please check with a ranger for updates. RECYCLING SCHEDULE & HOURS famous faces, just from other parts of the Please place your paper and plastic The information center and Lincoln Bor- memorial. Check with a ranger for details. PRESIDENTIAL TRAIL in the recycling bins located in the park. glum Visitor Center are both open every The 0.6-mile Presidential Trail (with 422 Mount Rushmore National Memorial re- day of the year (except December 25), with INFORMATION CENTER stairs) starts from Grand View Terrace, cently achieved Climate Friendly Park sta- extended hours during the summer season. Stop at the information center for details follows a historic roadbed overlooking the tus, which means it has completed training However, the visitor center could be closed about activities and programs at the memo- amphitheater, and then winds through pon- and formed a plan of action to promote in May for construction. Please check the rial. Exhibits, a bookstore and brochures are derosa pines and rocky outcrops to a point sustainability and prevent climate change. park website or Facebook page for up-to- available to help you plan. directly below the , offering views date information. of the four figures. BOOKSTORE In winter, Mount Rushmore is illumi- AUDIO & MULTIMEDIA TOURS It continues to the Sculptor’s Studio be- The Mount Rushmore Society operates nated for one hour beginning 30 minutes Rent an audio tour handheld wand for $6 at fore looping back to Grand View Terrace. stores in the information center and Sculptor’s after sunset. During summer, the sculp- the Audio Tour Building across from the infor- The first 0.25 mile of this 0.6-mile trail is Studio, selling souvenirs and gifts, as well fully accessible to visitors with disabili- as books and other educational products. ties. Please note this trail can close due to THE SCULPTOR’S STUDIO wintery conditions and will only be acces- PETS sible from the Nature Trail during the 2019 With the exception of service animals, The Sculptor’s Studio has undergone a historic renovation that is set to complete in early June 2019. This 1939 structure was sculptor ’s second on-site studio, and today, pe- season. pets are not permitted in the memorial. riod plaster models and sculptings tools are displayed inside. Presidential Trail access information is Talks on the mountain-carving process and other special programs and exhibits can also be available at the park Information Center, on For answers to all your questions, found at the studio, bringing Borglum’s vision into a hands-on, 21st-century experience. the park website at nps.gov/moru or the go to OhRanger.com park Facebook page.

16 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE 17 THE MAKING OF THE MAKING OF RUSHMORE ture. He examined the , as Rob- THE WAITING GAME RUSHMORE inson suggested, but found the rock too Senator Norbeck and Congressman Wil- brittle for carving. He left and returned next liam Williamson easily secured federal legis- Mount Rushmore National Memorial is as Many South Dakotans believed that a co- year. It was on Borglum’s second trip—Au- lation to allow a mountain carving in Harney much a product of dreams and determination lossal sculpture would attract thousands of gust 13, 1925—that he found what he was National Forest. A similar bill in the state leg- as it is the work of a talented sculptor. visitors with heavy wallets. Others­ found the seeking. Borglum and his party climbed islature was passed in 1925. notion ludicrous. Finally, when the newspa- Peak, at 7,242 feet, the highest But months passed as supporters of the THE FATHER OF RUSHMORE per stories stopped and the snickers ceased, point between the Rockies and the Swiss Rushmore project scrambled for funding. En- In 1923, , the aging Robinson enlisted the aid of the one man he Alps. The surrounding vista inspired him. vironmentalists suggested the project would superintendent of the South Dakota State knew could carry the torch—the respected “Here is the place!” Borglum exclaimed. deface the mountainside. Others asked how Historical Society, had a vision of a massive U.S. Senator Peter Norbeck. “American history shall march along that a mortal sculptor could hope to improve mountain memorial carved from stone so Norbeck, a frequent visitor at the White skyline.” on what a higher authority had already de- large it would put South Dakota on the map. House, had the admiration of his peers in He set his sights on the craggy, pine- signed. As the calendars changed to 1926, Robinson told all who would listen of his the Senate as well as that of the farmers and clad cliff known as Mount Rushmore, near most South Dakotans dismissed the whole dream of giant statues of Western figures ranchers of South Dakota who had sent him the isolated mining town of Keystone. It fanciful conception. Months passed. The such as Chief Red Cloud, Buffalo Bill Cody, to Washington. Robinson’s mountain-carv- had southeastern exposure, giving it direct sculptor’s dream remained an idea. Lewis and Clark, and legendary­ Sioux war- ing proposal captured the senior senator’s sunlight most of the day, and was made of riors marching along South Dakota’s skyline. imagination, and he encouraged the historian sound granite relatively free from fracture. PRESIDENTIAL ATTENTION Robinson spoke to local organizations and to seek a sculptor capable of commanding Borglum carefully explored the crevices Then, in the spring of 1927, Presi- wrote letter upon letter. such a project. and sampled the rock of Mount Rushmore. dent decided to spend Sculptor Gutzon Borglum, one of Amer- With each test, he reconfirmed that he had his three-week summer holiday in ica’s most prolific artists, received a letter found his mountain. the Black Hills. NPS from Robinson proposing the project in Au- gust 1924. Borglum jumped at the chance.

MIXED SIGNALS PRESERVING OUR PAST. However, upon his arrival in September PROTECTING OUR FUTURE. 1924, the flamboyant Borglum politely, but forcefully, informed Robinson and Norbeck that his life’s work would not be spent im- mortalizing regional heroes. The sculptor insisted that the work demanded a subject­ national in nature and timeless in its relevance to history. By selecting four great presidential ­figures for the carving, the trio sought to create an eternal reminder of the birth, growth, preservation and development of a nation dedicated to democracy and the pur- suit of individual liberty. Borglum soon embarked on a site- searching trip to find a grouping of rocks npca.org Sculptor Gutzon Borglum spent the last 14 years of his life working on Mount Rushmore. massive enough to support a giant sculp-

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MEN AND MOUNTAIN At first, it was just a job, a way to put food on the table. But as the four faces FUN FACTS emerged from the granite, the men who

Library of Congress of Library helped carve the memorial began to share Q. HOW MANY PEOPLE WORKED the sculptor’s dream. These drill-dusty, ON MOUNT unemployed miners, who had originally RUSHMORE? sought only a paycheck in the heart of the , became caught A. There were approximately up in a challenge that would produce 400 people who worked a national treasure. at Mount Rushmore during the carving In the six-and-a-half years of work that process from October 1927 to October occurred on and off between 1927 and 1941. Fortunately, throughout this extremely dangerous work, there were 1941, Borglum employed almost 400 local no lives lost. President Calvin Coolidge formally dedicated Mount Rushmore and pledged federal support for the workers. Some built roads, ran the hoist project during his 1927 summer vacation in the Black Hills. house, generated power or sharpened On June 15, Senator Norbeck and 10,000 glum climbed to the mountain’s craggy thousands of bits for the pneumatic drills. For answers to all your questions, South Dakotans warmly greeted President summit and symbolically drilled six holes Others set dynamite charges or completed go to OhRanger.com and Mrs. Coolidge, their two dogs and the to mark the commencement of carving. delicate finishing work on the sculpture. First Lady’s pet raccoon as they stepped The Mount Rushmore dream would em- Among the most highly skilled workers­ from the train in Rapid City. They were brace the remaining 14 years of his life were those using dynamite. Using tech- tain in Georgia, and relying on skills his soon settled comfortably into the State and leave a monument unlike any other. niques he had developed at Stone Moun- crew had acquired in mining, Borglum Game Lodge and the Dakotan way of life (the lodge would become Coolidge’s “Sum- mer White House”). Their three-week visit PRESERVE RUSHMORE turned into a three-month stay. • Visit Mount Rushmore in the winter, This extended vacation allowed Borglum spring or fall to avoid summer and Norbeck enough time to convince overcrowding. Coolidge to participate in the formal dedi- • Deposit all litter in recycling bins and trash cation of Mount Rushmore. On August 10, cans located throughout the park. the president rode horseback to the moun- • Stay on established trails. Taking tain, sporting cowboy boots and a 10-gallon shortcuts increases erosion and hat given to him by local residents. damages vegetation. “We have come here to dedicate a cor- • Don’t attempt to climb the memorial. It’s nerstone laid by the hand of the Almighty,” dangerous, destructive and against the Coolidge told a crowd of 1,000 South law. Violators will be fined. Dakotans. In an impassioned speech by a • Remember to leave all park resources man not known for his passion, Coolidge be- where you find them—even the tiniest came the first to refer to Mount ­Rushmore or the smallest plant. as a “national shrine,” then pledged federal • Ask a National Park Service ranger support for the project. about volunteer opportunities in the After listening with satisfaction to the park. president’s remarks, the 60-year-old Bor-

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THE FACES OF RUSHMORE used the ­explosive in an innovative way that helped to remove large amounts of rock quickly and relatively inexpensively. FUN FACTS His powder men became so skilled that Q. HOW BIG ARE THE they could blast to within four inches of the HEADS ON MOUNT finished surface and grade the contours RUSHMORE? of the lips, nose, cheeks, neck and brow. A. The heads are about In fact, 90 percent of the 450,000 tons of 60 feet tall—the average Christian Collins / Shutterstock granite removed from the mountain was size of a six-story building. taken out with dynamite. Washington’s nose is 21 feet 1 2 3 4 long and the rest are approximately 20 1 , the “father of our coun- a plan for sovereignty and freedom. Jefferson MODEL TO MASTERPIECE feet. The eyes are about 11 feet wide try” and the ­nation’s first president, earned his also served as governor of his native state, as place as the foremost figure in the ­presidential minister to France and as secretary of state un- Borglum created a model of the four and the mouths are approximately 18 feet wide. pisaphotography portrait. Born in 1732 in Virginia, he surveyed der President Washington. From 1801 to 1809, presidents on a 1-to-12-inch scale, meaning what was then considered the western wilder- he served two successful terms as the nation’s an inch on the model represented a foot on For answers to all your questions, ness, the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. At only third president. the cliff. This model has been preserved go to OhRanger.com 23 years old, he ­commanded the Virginia militia, Jefferson was ultimately included because of for viewing at the Sculptor’s Studio. To then served as a member of the Virginia House his vision of an America that spanned from coast transfer measurements from the model to of Burgesses. He was a justice of the peace and to coast. His purchase of the vast Louisiana Ter- the mountain, workers determined where came again, the workers would report back commander-in-chief of the Continental Army ritory, which more than doubled the size of the the top of the head would be, then found to the mountain, eager to get back to work before ­assuming his most illustrious role as first young nation, brought this dream closer to reality. the corresponding point on the model. A on their adopted cause. president of the United States. Borglum chose to render Jefferson as a young protractor was mounted horizontally on top As his dream neared completion, Before sculpting Washington, Borglum studied man, using the life mask created by American artist John H. I. Browere. As depicted on Mount of the model’s head. A similar, albeit 12 Borglum’s biggest fear was leaving a portraits by Rembrandt, Peale and Gilbert Stew- art, and a life mask by artist Antoine Houdon. Rushmore, Jefferson is looking to the heavens,­ times larger, apparatus was placed on the mystery for future generations. In 1938, 2 Theodore Roosevelt. The only presidential emphasizing his reputation as visionary and mountain. By substituting­ feet for inches, he began carving a giant vault in the selection to draw any measure of criticism was philosopher. workers quickly determined the amount of canyon wall directly behind Mount Rush- that of Theodore Roosevelt, the nation’s 26th 4 Abraham Lincoln. “The Great Emancipator” rock to remove. more, in which he planned to place records president, because some said history had not Abraham Lincoln, was born to poor parents in Drillers then used the same ­measuring of the memorial, Western civilization and yet judged Roosevelt’s presidency (he had been Kentucky’s backwoods in 1809. Lincoln taught system and air-powered tools to drill individual liberty and freedom. Borglum’s dead only eight years). But Borglum believed himself law, served in the Illinois Legislature, then closely spaced holes to exacting depths, a death and the country’s entry into World Roosevelt’s vision of America’s role in the world gained a seat in the U.S. House of Representa- process known as “honeycombing.” The War II, however, intervened and the Hall of community qualified him for the fourth place on tives. In 1858, he challenged Senator Stephen rock between these holes was then bro- Records was left unfinished (in 1998, the the mountain. Roosevelt had realized the dream Douglas and—through wit, wisdom and a series ken away using chisels and hammers. The National Park Service completed a scaled- of Christopher Columbus by completing the of historic debates—won the admiration of the American people, though he lost the election. final process, known as “bumping,” used down version of the hall). Panama Canal and connecting the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Elected president in 1860, Lincoln oversaw one a pneumatic drill and a special bit to leave After Borglum’s death, his son, Lincoln,­ More significantly, Borglum identified with Roo- of the most pivotal periods in American history: the finished surface as smooth as a con- spent another seven months refining the sevelt’s energy and charisma, and saw him as the Civil War. Through steadfast devotion to the crete sidewalk. monument, but as America prepared for the epitome of the “American Spirit.” Borglum nation, he successfully preserved the Union. A skilled driller could make $1.25 per war, funds were needed elsewhere. On sculpted him from memory, as he and “Teddy” Lincoln was Borglum’s favorite leader. In fact, hour on the project, which was better than October 31, 1941, congress declared the were close friends and confidants before, during the sculptor named his only son for the 16th presi- the mines were paying. Yet Borglum’s monument complete, leaving Mount Rush- and after Roosevelt’s presidency. dent. After studying photographs and a life mask crew often had to endure extended lay- more as we know it ­today: a truly Ameri- 3 Thomas Jefferson. Born in 1743 to Virginia of Lincoln, Borglum chose to portray him with the offs due to a lack of funds and harsh win- can icon that will stand the test of time, planters, Thomas Jefferson drafted the Declara- beard and the determined look he wore during his ter weather. When spring or more funding lasting for generations to come. tion of Independence at age 33, giving the nation tenure in office.

22 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE 23 BADLANDS BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL PARK Shutterstock The stunning panorama of Badlands tinct, preserving them for posterity as . National Park rests just an hour east of Wind and the rushing waters of rivers now Rapid City on I-90 (exits 110 and 131). This long vanished eroded the dry, fragile soil, 244,000-acre landscape is both barren and coursing through different layers of harder beautiful. Wind and rain erosion have cre- and softer rock, gouging out channels and ated an eerie moonscape of deep gorges gullies, and carving cliffs, spires and odd rock and jagged sawtooth ridges with rock lay- formations. ers painted in subtle hues of sand, rose, Erosion continues to this day, frequently gold and green. revealing long-buried fossils. Drawn by the fossilized remains of saber-toothed cats, At the current rate of erosion, many geologists believe the Badlands will be gone in 500,000 years. GEOLOGY AND FOSSIL HISTORY miniature and , and huge rhi- Starting 65 million years ago, weather pat- noceros-like beasts known as ­titanotheres, annual pass is $40. Commercial en- 20 miles south of the town of Scenic on terns shifted, and the area now called the scientists discovered millions of years of geo- trance fees are $60 for a minibus; $150 BIA (Bureau of Indian Affairs) Route 27. It Badlands was lifted and transformed by geo- logic history buried in the multicolored layers. for a motor coach. All passes are valid for is open only in summers from 9 a.m. to 5 logical forces. The black, muddy floor of an One of the world’s richest Eocene/ seven days. Fees are set to increase in p.m. Located within the South Unit of the ancient sea that once covered this area was Epoch fossil beds is located here, yielding a 2020. For more information, please visit park (which encompasses part of the adjoin- compressed into a band of 2,000-foot-thick wealth of information on the “Golden Age of nps.gov/badl. ing Pine Ridge Reservation), it is staffed by rock known as the Pierre Shale. Forests ­Mammals” of approximately 27 million to 37 members of the Sioux Tribe working flourished and withered away. Volcanoes laid million years ago. VISITOR CENTERS as cultural interpreters. down a thick layer of ash and rivers repeat- South Dakotans began petitioning Con- The Ben Reifel Visitor Center at Cedar edly flooded the region,­ depositing sediment. gress to set aside a portion of the Badlands Pass was named after the first American CONTACT INFORMATION These successive­ layers of matter often held as a preserve as early as 1909. The area was Indian to serve in the U.S. House of For more information or free maps, con- the bodies and bones of animals now long ex- designated Badlands National Monument in Representatives (from 1961–1971). The visi- tact the Superintendent’s ­Office, Badlands 1939, then given national park status in 1978. tor center is open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. National Park, (605) 433-5361; badl_infor- in the summer, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the [email protected]; 25216 Ben Reifel Rd., FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT NOT SO “BAD” TODAY fall, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the winter and 8 Interior, SD 57750 or visit nps.gov/badl. “Let sculptors come to the Badlands. Today, the Badlands are more hospita- a.m.to 5 p.m. in spring. The Ben Reifel Visitor Let painters come. But first of all, the true ble than when American Indians, trappers Center offers a park orientation film, exhibits HIKING architect should come. He who could and early fossil hunters explored its won- featuring models and murals of Badlands’ Badlands trails range from a 0.25-mile interpret this vast gift of nature in terms ders. Highway 240, known as ­Badlands landscapes of the past and present with loop past fossil displays to a 5.25-mile path of human habitation so that Americans Loop Road, snakes through the passes, interactive animations and video presenta- across a prairie. See the “Walking & Hik- on their own continent might glimpse a offering 14 scenic overlooks, roadside ex- tions, as well as a bookstore with proceeds ing” chapter for more information. Park new and higher civilization certainly, and hibits, developed nature trails and an air- donated to the park’s education program. naturalists present guided walks and hikes touch it and feel it as they lived in it and conditioned visitor center at Cedar Pass. Cedar Pass Lodge, operated by Forever throughout the park, as well as talks, ­Junior deserved to call it their own. Yes, I say Resorts, continues the tradition of service Ranger Programs and evening programs the aspects of the Dakota Badlands have ENTRANCE FEES to park visitors that began in 1928. The at Cedar Pass Campground. Check the more spiritual quality to impart to the mind of America than anything else in it For 2019, entrance fees at Bad- Lodge is closed during the winter months visitor centers for times and locations. made by man’s G o d.” lands National Park are $25 per car, $15 but offers a restaurant, cabins and gift Journeying west to the Sage Creek —Frank Lloyd Wright, 1935 per motorcycle and $12 for those trav- shop in summer. ­Basin area of the park, look for 650 head eling on foot or bicycle. A Badlands The White River Visitor Center is about of bison as well as , bighorn

24 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE 25 BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK EXPLORING sheep, , deer and rattlesnakes that to watch the ridges where eagles, hawks live in the 64,250-acre Badlands Wilder- and turkey vultures soar on warm updrafts. THE BLACK HILLS ness Area. Though known for the Bad- The best times to visit the ­Badlands are lands formations, about half of the park early morning and early evening when soft There is far more to the Black Hills than miles of known passageways, Wind Cave acreage is prairie. The lighting brings out wildlife and the subtle just Mount Rushmore and the Badlands. is one of the longest caves in the world. is the largest remaining expanse of wild colors found in the layers of compressed Check out the other amazing places in the Its rare crystal formations—gypsum beard, prairie in the NPS system. There are no sandstone and Pierre shale. surrounding area! and snowy calcite crystals —dis- marked trails within the wilderness, but tinguish it as a world-class cave, especially it is entirely open to hiking, camping and BADLANDS NATURAL CUSTER STATE PARK among veteran spelunkers. backpacking. Potable water is available HISTORY ASSOCIATION South of the memorial, dwarfing the Park rangers provide regular guided only at park visitor centers and near the The association is a nonprofit orga- surrounding rock formations, stands Black tours of the cave (fee required) year-round. Pinnacles Entrance Station. Boiling, using nization that assists the National Park Elk (formerly Harney) Peak. At 7,242 feet, Also available are above-ground park tours chemicals or even filtering won’t make the Service with educational, historical and it is the highest point between the Rocky and a bookstore. Backcountry camping chalky water drinkable. scientific programs for visitors to Badlands Mountains and the Swiss Alps. In the is allowed with permit (free). For more in- Note: For your safety, it is extremely im- National Park. Proceeds from association- shadows of that granite monolith, Highway formation, call (605) 745-4600 or visit portant to carry water and tell someone your operated book sales help support a wide 87 takes you to the boundaries of Custer nps.gov/wica. itinerary before you depart. variety of park activities. For more infor- State Park. Just southeast, Needles High- mation, contact the Badlands Natural His- way snakes through the spires of the park. JEWEL CAVE NATIONAL NATURE AND WILDLIFE tory Association, P.O. Box 47, Interior, Heading east, past the State Game MONUMENT While admiring the creatures and abun- SD 57750, call (605) 433-5489, or visit Lodge, is the park’s Wildlife Loop, where Located west of Custer on U.S. 16, dant wildflowers on the lands, don’t forget badlandsnha.org. even amateur photographers can cap- Jewel Cave National Monument is part of ture deer, bison, pronghorn or eagles for the same massive Black Hills ­hydrologic the family album. Custer boasts a herd of system that spawned Wind Cave. Boast- 1,300 bison, which is one of the largest ing more than 200 miles of explored­ and publicly owned herds in the world. Often, mapped passageways, Jewel Cave ranks these 2,000-pound animals have been as one of the longest caves in the world. known to bring traffic to a halt while they The Monument is open daily during the stand in the road. summer season and some extended hours in Custer offers multiple lodges, each with its the spring and fall; a limited schedule of cave own distinct identity. Chuckwagon cookouts, tours and staff are available during the winter Jeep rides and boat rentals are just a few months. Exhibits and displays at the monu- of the experiences available at the lodges. ment’s visitor center showcase the surface For information, call (605) 255-4515 or visit and subsurface features of the monument. custerstatepark.info. Interactive displays will further engage fami- lies and kids. Ranging from wildlife dioramas WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK to painted murals and a cave crawl-through Wind Cave is immediately south of to touchscreen interpretive podcasts, visi- Custer State Park and north of Hot Springs tors will be immersed in even more learning on U.S. 385. Above ground, elk, pronghorn, experiences that complement a sense of ex- deer and bison roam the more than 28,000 ploration and discovery. acres of natural sanctuary that make up the park. Tickets are required for cave entry and are Below the surface of the park, a lime- sold on a first come, first-served basis; tours stone labyrinth awaits. With nearly 150 often sell out by late morning during the sum-

26 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS AND MOUNT RUSHMORE 27 EXPLORING THE BLACK HILLS CRAZY HORSE mer season. Note: Tickets for the Scenic Tour Chamber of Commerce can be reached at may be purchased at blackhillsvacations. (800) 325-6991. THE FIFTH FACE com. Teachers may call the visitor center to inquire about educational programs and STURGIS The Mount Rushmore Memorial academic fee waivers. For information, call Sturgis gives off the appearance of another encouraged another accomplished art- ist to carve a second colossal sculpture in

(605) 673-8300 or visit nps.gov/jeca. small, old mining area set in the Black Hills, Shutterstock where horses once lined the main street. If the Black Hills. In 1948, seven years after THE SITE you stumble upon Sturgis from August 8 to work stopped on nearby Mount Rushmore, grand-scale carving began on the Crazy AT HOT SPRINGS 14, you may find something else lined up Horse Memorial. Twenty-six thousand years ago, Columbian on the main drag. The town experiences a and woolly , looking to escape the dramatic population boom with the Sturgis A NATIVE COUNTERPART bitter cold of the Ice Age, were attracted to Motorcycle Rally. Bikers travel thousands of Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (pronounced a warm pond located on the western edge miles to participate in the rally, which draws “Jewel-cuff-ski”) had worked as an assis- of present-day Hot Springs. Every now and crowds of more than half a million people! It’s tant to Gutzon Borglum at Mount Rush- then, mammoths slid into the natural, steep- no surprise that Sturgis is home to the Sturgis more in 1939. That same year, Chief Henry sided sinkhole and became trapped. After dy- Motorcycle & Hall of Fame. Standing Bear of the Oglala Sioux wrote ing of starvation or exhaustion while trying to Ziolkowski asking him to consider carving climb the slippery sides of the hole, their bod- DEADWOOD a giant sculpture dedicated to the Ameri- ies settled to the pool’s murky bottom and Located minutes from the Black Hills Na- can Indian. The Sioux, Standing­ Bear said, eventually became entombed in silt. tional Forest, Deadwood is a small town “would like the white man to know the red In 1974, a bulldozer operator was prepar- rich in Wild West history, becoming the first man has great heroes, also.” ing the site for a housing project when he National Historic Landmark in South Dakota Ziolkowski, a determined artist, loved Crazy Horse’s likeness is constantly changing, noticed a tusk in the dirt. Now the spot is back in 1961. With authentic gaming halls, the challenge and was inspired to dedicate and each visit will render a new experience. called the “Mammoth Site,” and is enclosed time-appropriate street lamps and fine din- the rest of his life to the sculpture. Chief in a modern interpretive facility, which is lo- ing, Deadwood is an elegant trip back in time. Henry Standing Bear, and other leaders, sculptor, the museum gift shop, the Indian cated just west of Hot Springs on U.S.18. chose the Sioux warrior Crazy Horse for Museum of North America featuring three For more information, call (605) 745-6017 or KEYSTONE the subject. Crazy Horse was born in the immense exhibit halls with thousands visit mammothsite.org. Hot Springs Area Keystone is the closest town to Mount Black Hills and is partially credited with of artifacts, the Native American Educa- Rushmore and a vital gateway. This old mining Custer’s sensational defeat at the Battle of tional and Cultural Center and the new town offers lodging, dining and entertainment Little Bighorn. Mountain Museum and restaurant. Unlike for visitors. There is more to the town than its The artist spent several­ decades alone Mount Rushmore, on the mountain, drilling­ and blasting the is funded solely by private donations and

Shutterstock proximity to the monument, however: Here likeness of the great Sioux leader from admission fees. you can experience the West the same way the granite of Thunderhead Mountain. Admission to the monument is $12 per its first visitors did on the Black Hills Central Depicting Crazy Horse atop his steed, the person or $30 per carload. The monu- Railroad. The authentic 1880 train takes riders 563-foot-tall memorial is being carved ment is open at 8 a.m. from mid-October across the untouched tree-covered Black Hills. in the round and will dwarf the four to mid-May; closing hours vary. In the Try your hand at gold panning at Big Thunder presidents on Mount Rushmore when summer, the monument is open from 7 Gold Mine or explore . The completed. a.m. until dark. The “Legends in Light” Keystone Historical Museum displays exhibits After Ziolkowski’s death in 1982, the Laser Show is performed in season. Crazy on the rich regional history with photos, early memorial continues to be built, overseen Horse Memorial is located between Custer mining tools and memorabilia. The museum is by seven of the Ziolkowskis’ 10 children. and Hill City on U.S. 16-385. For more Kayaking on nearby Sylvan Lake in Custer State open May through September. Admission is On site are the 1/34th-scale plaster model, information, call (605) 673-4681, or visit Park is a popular activity. free and visitors can go on a walking tour. the studio-home and workshop of the crazyhorsememorial.org.

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Throughout the year, you can experience Hills National Forest, and Center and wonders of western South Dakota through Stockade lakes in Custer State Park. You numerous park activities and programs. can pick up a non-resident fishing license Check park newspapers and brochures for at any sporting goods store and at many current programs and scheduling. convenience stores. Fees for the license are $16 ($8 for residents) for 24 hours, SPRING, SUMMER $37 for three days or $67 ($28 for resi- AND FALL dents) for a year. FISHING TECHNICAL CLIMBING In the land where trout is king, fishing Short, demanding, technical climbs are has attained royal status. All headwater plentiful in the Black Hills, making it the streams, including Grizzly Bear Creek near ideal place to explore different ways to Mount Rushmore, are full of brook trout; reach individual summits. Rapid Creek and Spearfish Creek have in neighboring Wyoming is undoubtedly wild brown trout; and Horsethief Lake the most touted climb, but the Needles- below Mount Rushmore and many other Sylvan Lake district of the Black Hills Black Hills streams are stocked with rain- also offers excellent climbing among its bow trout. Some spots to try are Pactola approximately 300 granite spires. A guide Reservoir and Sheridan Lake in the Black to technical climbing called Climbing the AD Shutterstock

South Dakota’s fishing hotspots, like Pactola Reservoir and Sheridan Lake, teem with brown trout..

30 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE |

2019 Oh Ranger.indd 1 3/22/2019 1:35:41 PM THINGS TO DO THINGS TO DO

turkey hunting and the second season for CRAZY HORSE VOLKSMARCH food per hiker for the KOTA Care & Share light geese. Taking place twice a year, the bi-annual Food Drive. The AVA charges $3 per per- Crazy Horse Volksmarch (an organized son (for all ages) for the hike. PICNICKING hike) is a woodlands ramble to the world’s Pack a picnic and head for any of the largest mountain carving in progress. ROCKHOUNDING free picnic areas that dot the Black Hills The 10K (6.2-mile) round-trip hike is The unique geology of the Black Hills Roderick Eime/SDRoderick Tourism and the Badlands. the most popular event of its kind in the ranks it in the top five locations in the With spectacular views of the Black Elk nation, drawing as many as 15,000 par- United States to find a variety of minerals. Wilderness and , the Iron ticipants. It is the only time each season Besides the obvious “rock” gold, rock- See the Black Hills in thrilling fashion on a snowmobile. Mountain Picnic Area in the Black Hills (weather permitting) the public can ­ascend hounds can find more than 40 different National Forest is located near the Nor- the carving. minerals here, including rose quartz, cop- Needles—Touch the Sky,” published by the beck Memorial Overlook, along Iron Moun- The spring Volksmarch takes place per, silver and feldspar. Keep your eye out American Alpine Club, can be purchased tain Road. The Breezy Point Picnic Area on the first full weekend in June, of- for a Fairburn agate, the state’s official at local bookstores. Equipment, maps and offers commanding views of Mount Rush- ten coinciding with the anniversary of gem, which is rusty brown with a white other information are available at many more. It’s located in the Black Hills National the 1998 ­dedication of the nine-story- core that is visible when it’s split in half; sports shops in Rapid City. Check local Forest just west of Mount Rushmore on high carved face of Crazy Horse and they are found in alluvial deposits along the climbing regulations (and recommendations), State Highway 244 . the anniversary of the first blast on foothills. as rules and conditions vary by park. In Badlands National Park, the the mountain. The fall Volksmarch takes Bigfoot Pass Picnic Area is located place on the last weekend in September. WILD CAVING HORSEBACK RIDING along the Badlands Scenic Byway, Admission is free to the memorial for At Jewel Cave National Monument, Various private outfitters offer horse seven miles northwest of Cedar Pass. hikers, with a donation of three cans of visitors (16 years or older) can experi- rentals in the Black Hills. Gunsel Horse Named for Chief Bigfoot, this area over- Adventurers also conducts Western pack looks the route he and his band took trips, including multi-day trips, in Bad- to Wounded Knee in 1890. Eight miles lands National Park. For more information, south of the Pinnacles Entrance to the inquire in the Badlands visitor center or Park, the Conata Picnic Area is the call (605) 343-7608. Horseback riding is gateway to the Sage Creek Wilderness allowed anywhere in the park except on area and is an ideal spot to have lunch marked trails, roads or in developed ­areas. and take in the park’s wildilfe. For more An area in Sage Creek Campground has information about getting provisions for been designated for horses. Inquire at your picnic, see the “Camping” chapter. the visitor center for more information on horse use at Badlands. MOUNTAIN BIKING Mountain biking is quickly becoming HUNTING a popular activity in the Black Hills, what Hunting is a year-round sport in South with nearly 6,000 miles of fire trails and Dakota. While hunting is not permitted in logging roads open for exploration. Though South Dakota’s national parks, hunters you probably won’t find these roads have access to nearly five million acres of marked on a map, any gravel road into the public land. Upland game, waterfowl, small Black Hills National Forest—such as Deer- game and big game dominate the fall hun- field Road west of Hill City—will lead you ting seasons. Predator hunting fills the win- to one. If you need to rent a bike, check in ter months and spring signals the start of the communities of Rapid City or Custer.

32 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 33 THINGS TO DO

BEYOND DAKOTA: DEVILS TOWER

massive stone pillar that juts skyward 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River Valley.

Shutterstock To geologists, Devils Tower is an igneous intrusion. To American Indians, it is Mato Tipila, “Bear Lodge.” The Tower Walk enables visitors to explore Devils Tower with a ranger on the Tower Trail. This 1.5-hour guided walk begins in front of the visitor center. Good walking shoes and water are recommended. The Black Hills are not exclusively in South Da- Access to the monument is year-round, and kota. A portion of the mountain range spills west the park’s visitor center is open daily, with the into neighboring ­Wyoming. If you continue north exception of December 24th, 25th, 31st and and then veer west on I-90, you’ll cross the bor- January 1st. For more information, contact the der. U.S. 14 at Sundance will put you on the path Superintendent’s Office, Devils Tower National toward Devils Tower National Monument, which Monument, P.O. Box 10, Devils Tower, WY is located about 60 miles west of Spearfish, SD. 82714; (307) 467-5283 or visit nps.gov/deto. America’s first national monument is a

ence extraordinary caving on the Wild ment rentals, ski schools, lodges and a Cave Tour, no spelunking experience is terrain park. For information about snow AD required. The Wild Cave Tour is offered conditions, including cross-country trails, call mid-June through the end of August. With the ­“Sno-WATS” line at (800) 445-3474, the hard hat secured and headlamp turned South Dakota Office of Tourism at (605) 773- on, you can experience the cave in its un- 3301, or at (800) 456-0524. touched, natural state. Note: Wild Cave Tours require each participant to fit through SNOWMOBILING an opening that measures 8.5 inches top to The development of a 400-mile bottom and 24 inches from side to side. network of marked, mapped and groomed snowmobile trails in the Black Hills Na- WINTER tional Forest has made this area a true snowmobiling destination. Exploration of the You can help protect SKIING Black Hills’ hidden byways by snowmobile the places you love to hike. At the end of November, preparations be- has become a regular winter pastime. gin for ski season. In the Black Hills, peak Pathways are groomed every night in the Join today and get a 20% discount on membership. skiing is during January and February, with winter. Snowmobile servicing, rentals and snow continuing to accumulate until early guides are available, as are pit stops, gas, Use this exclusive Oh, Ranger! code APN20 April. Downhill, Nordic skiers,­ and snow- warming shelters, trailheads and parking. boarders flock to the area’s main ski ­resort, To check snow and trail conditions, call AmericanHiking.org/join Terry Peak. The resort­ has a ski shop, equip- (800) 445-3474 or (605) 773-3301.

34 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | CAMPING WALKING & HIKING

NEAR MOUNT RUSHMORE BADLANDS CAMPGROUNDS Whether you’re a day hiker, backpacker, MOUNT RUSHMORE Camping is not permitted at Mount Rush- The park service operates campgrounds ice climber, spelunker or hardened moun- The Presidential Trail departs from more; however, just minutes away, the U.S. at Cedar Pass (96 sites, $23 per night for taineer, you can find the trail you’re look- Grandview Terrace and follows a historic Forest Service operates a campground at tent and $37 for RV sites) and Sage Creek ing for in the Black Hills or Badlands. roadbed to the talus slope directly below the Horsethief Lake. The KOA Mt. Rushmore (a primitive campground with 25 sites, pit toi- You can purchase a detailed map show- sculpture. This 0.6-mile trail (with 422 stairs) campground is the next-closest to the memo- lets, and no running water or campfires; free). ing trail locations at Wind Cave, Jewel provides extraordinary views of Mount Rush- rial. It has cabins, tent sites, full hookups, a For camp reservations, contact Cedar Pass Cave, Custer State Park, more as it winds to the Sculptor’s Studio. restaurant, a lodge and other amenities. The Lodge, 20681 South Dakota Highway 240, In- State Park and Forest Service offices in NPS rangers lead guided walks during the resort provides shuttle service to the sculp- terior, SD 57750, call (877) 386-4383; or visit Rapid City and Custer. summer months. During winter, the trail may ture lighting ceremony. Call (605) 574-2525, nps.gov/badl. be closed due to ice and snow. Note: The or visit koa.com for more information. Cooking stoves and charcoal grills are HIKING TIPS Presidential Trail will only be accessible from With enough campsites to accommo- allowed in campgrounds, but open fires Before you set off on your hike, remem- the Nature Trail during the 2019 season. date 25,000 overnight guests, the Black are not allowed in the park. Outside the ber to check a route’s difficulty, the time Two trails lead to Borglum View Terrace Hills is ideal for camping. All campgrounds park, food, gasoline, lodging and camping­ required for round-trip travel, water avail- and the Sculptor’s Studio: one is a nature trail in the Black Hills are within 90 minutes of are available at the gateway towns of ability, and the trail and weather conditions. that starts from the main entryway, and the Mount Rushmore. It is recommended to ­Interior, 11 miles south of I-90 on High- The park discourages hiking or climbing other is a steep trail with uneven steps that make reservations and arrive early. way 44; and Wall, at the junction of I-90 alone, and no matter how experienced you starts from Grandview Terrace. For more information, contact Camp and Highway 240. are, always let someone know your itiner- The one-mile Blackberry Trail, which con- South Dakota, South Dakota Tourism, 711 The Badlands Interior Campground and ary before you head out. nects to the Centennial Trail, was designated Wells, Pierre, SD 57501-3369; (800) SDA- Motel has camp cabins, full hookups, grocer- While you’re hiking, stay on desig- a National Recreation Trail in 2018. Park at KOTA (732-5682). For information on camp- ies and laundry facilities. Take I-90 to exit 131 nated trails. Cutting across switchbacks Mount Rushmore and cross Highway 244 to ing in South Dakota’s state parks, contact to Highway 240 to Highway 377 to Interior. increases erosion and can be dangerous. access the trailhead. the Department of Game, Fish & Parks, For more information or reservations, call Many trails have precipitous drop-offs, 523 East Capitol, Pierre, SD 57501-3182; (605) 433-5335 or (800) 388-4643. slippery surfaces and loose sand and (605) 223-7660. For RV information, visit Nestled amid mature trees, the shale. To be safe, stay back from the gocampingamerica.com. ­Badlands/White River KOA is a quiet edges, watch your footing and wear FUN FACTS oasis adjacent to the Badlands. The camp- appropriate footwear. WIND CAVE CAMPGROUND ground has free Wi-Fi, a pool, level pull- Summer temperatures can exceed Q. IS MOUNT RUSHMORE HANDICAP At Wind Cave, Elk Mountain Camp- thrus, a pet park, 50 amp service and a 100°F in the shade. Wear a hat and sun- ACCESSIBLE? ground offers 75 sites for tents and pancake breakfast. Take I-90 Exit 131, screen, and carry plenty of water—you ­recreational vehicles amid rolling hills of pon- 4 miles east of Interior on Hwy 44. It is should drink one gallon per day. Avoid hik- A. All facilities at Mount derosa pine forests and prairie. It is open open from April 28 to September 30th. ing or camping in flash flood areas, and Rushmore National Memorial year-round ($18 per night, from mid-May For more information­ or ­reservations, call stay away from high, exposed places dur- are wheelchair-accessible. to mid-September; reduced fees at other (800) 562-3897 or visit online at koa.com. ing lightning storms. There is handicap accessible parking available and there are a limited number of times). Restrooms, firewood, fire grills and Minute Man RV Park & Lodging has Do not disturb wildlife or remove any wheelchairs available, free of charge, for picnic tables are provided, but water is avail- tent sites, full hookups, showers and laundry park resources, including rocks, plants, visitors at the information center. able only in the summer. A permit is required facilities, plus a pool. Take exit 131 off I-90 fossils and artifacts. Vehicles, including bi- for backcountry camping. For more informa- three miles from the park’s east entrance. For cycles, are only allowed on paved or des- For answers to all your questions, tion, please contact Wind Cave National Park more information or reservations, please call ignated roads and trails. Always remember go to OhRanger.com at (605) 745-4600, or visit nps.gov/wica. (605) 433-5451 or (800) 231-3617. to pack out all your litter.

36 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 37 WALKING AND HIKING WHO’S WHO AT WALKING & HIKING TRAILS THE PARK Difficulty Trail Starting Point Distance Description BADLANDS The dedicated efforts of the following tinctive collection of regional and hand- groups make possible the continual pres- made gifts, Northern Plains native crafts Easy Northern end of large Easy walk through a natural doorway into the Bad- Door Trail Door and Window 0.75 miles ervation and improvement of Mount Rush- and offers a memorable stay in this unique lands formations. parking area round-trip more, Badlands and other national parks. destination. Thoughtfully designed to en- Window Center of Door and Easy An accessible boardwalk ends in a dramatic view of hance every visitor’s experience and un- Window parking area Trail 150 yards canyons. • THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE derstanding of Native American Culture, Fossil 5 miles northwest of Easy A quick loop past replicas of fossils discovered in The NPS is the federal custodian Cedar Pass Lodge embraces the historical Exhibit Trail Ben Reifel Visitor Center 0.25-mile nearby formations. • loop of all national parks, including Mount significance of South Dakota and the west- Rushmore National Memorial, Badlands ern prairies. Castle Trail Fossil Exhibit Trail Moderate Moderate hike through a mix of prairie and Badlands and the Door/Win- 5.25 miles topography. Look for deer and . National Park, Wind Cave National Park For information about Forever Resorts, dow parking area one-way and Jewel Cave National Monument. As go to foreverresorts.com. For infor- Notch Trail North end of the Difficult Travels through a small canyon, up a ladder, past a an agency of the U.S. Department of the mation on Cedar Pass Lodge, visit Door and Window 1.5 miles dry, 20-foot waterfall and then ends at a natural wall. Interior, the NPS has the responsibility cedarpasslodge.com or write Cedar Pass parking area round-trip Watch for sharp drop-offs. of preserving and protecting the environ- Lodge, P.O. Box 5, 20681 Hwy 240, Inte- Saddle Pass Loop Road, 2 miles Difficult Leads from the Loop Road, 2 miles west of Cedar mental and cultural values of our national rior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5460. Trail west of Cedar Pass 0.2 miles Pass, climbs the wall for 0.25 miles and intersects the Castle Trail. parks, protecting the fish and wildlife Cliff Shelf 1/2 mile north of the Easy Winds through a wooded prairie oasis surrounded therein, and providing for public use and THE MOUNT RUSHMORE SOCIETY Nature Trail Visitor Center 0.5-mile by the parched Badlands. Walkers will wander in enjoyment of the parks. Visit nps.gov for The Mount Rushmore Society has been loop trail and out of small, tree-shaded areas and take advan- tage of boardwalks and a flight of natural stairs. more information. supporting Mount Rushmore National Me- morial since work on the mountain first MOUNT RUSHMORE XANTERRA TRAVEL COLLECTION® began. Currently running the bookstores The Washington (south) Easy to Get a closer view of Mount Rushmore on this fam- Xanterra Travel Collection® operates the located in the visitor centers and the audio Presidential side of the Grand Difficult ily-friendly trail. It takes you to the base of the moun- tain, down to the Sculptor’s Studio and back up to memorial’s Carvers’ Marketplace and the tour of the monument, the society is one Trail View Terrace 0.6 miles the terrace. gift shop. Recently, Xanterra Travel Collec- of the nation’s largest and oldest National Blackberry Southeast end of the Moderate Winds from Mt. Rushmore into the Black Elk Wilder- tion® invested millions of dollars in new Park Service friends organizations, raising Trail parking facility 1 mile ness and connects with Centennial Trail #89. There are several water crossings along this gravel path. concession facilities at Mount Rushmore. millions for facility improvements and pro- Within Mount Rushmore, it hires more motional events since 1930. BLACK HILLS than 100 seasonal employees. For employ- The Mount Rushmore Institute is an- Crow Peak 7 miles southwest of Difficult This challenging hike has a worthwhile reward— ment information and applications, contact other division of the society, serving as Trail Spearfish on Higgins 3.5 miles panoramic views over Wyoming, South Dakota and Gulch Road Montana. Xanterra Travel Collection®, Employment a forum to advance the cause of free- Centennial Bear Butte to Wind Easy to This landmark trail begins in the prairie grasslands Office, Mount Rushmore National Memo- dom and the principles of democracy. Trail Cave (more than 24 Moderate near Bear Butte State Park and crosses the north- rial, 13000 Highway 244, Bldg. 81, Key- Contact the Mount Rushmore National access points) 111 miles south length of the Black Hills to Wind Cave Na- stone, SD 57751; (605) 574-2515; or visit Memorial Society at P.O. Box 1524, Rapid tional Park. online at xanterra.com. City, SD 57709; call (605) 341-8883, or Harney 14 trailheads Easy to Accessible by hiking or horseback riding, this trail visit mountrushmoresociety.com. winds through the . Hike one Range Trail Difficult CEDAR PASS LODGE 50 miles or all of the Harney Range trails. Forever Resorts operates Cedar Pass MOUNT RUSHMORE BOOKSTORE Flume Trail Sheridan Lake Easy to This national recreation trail follows the historic Moderate Rockerville Flume bed as it winds through the Black Lodge, the only lodging, gift store and res- The Mount Rushmore Bookstores are lo- 11 miles Hills. taurant located in Badlands National Park. cated in the information center and Sculp- Cedar Pass Lodge provides visitors a dis- tor’s Studio and carry educational books

38 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 39 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK

and products about Mount Rushmore and is $12 per person or $30 per carload. The NATURE & WILDLIFE the region. The organization also operates monument opens at 7 a.m. May through the Mount Rushmore Audio Tour and Mul- October, 8 a.m. November through April. timedia Tour. You can find out more about Closing hours vary. The monument is The Black Hills region represents a unique forests surrounding Mount Rushmore. these tours at the Mount Rushmore Audio located five miles north of Custer on mosaic of forest and prairie environments, The dominant tree at Mount Rushmore Tour Building or at any of the bookstores U.S. 16-385. For more information, con- bringing together animals and plants that and throughout the Black Hills is the pon- throughout the park. tact Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, cannot be found living together anywhere derosa pine (). Towering Sales from the bookstores and tour 12151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, else. As a transitional east-meets-west as high as 180 feet, its bark is yellow to or- sales help support several of the park’s SD 57730, call (605) 673-4681 or visit landscape, the Black Hills support a diverse ange in mature trees and black in younger needs. For more information, contact the crazyhorsememorial.org. blend of species from the deciduous forests trees. Five- to 10-inch dark green needles Mount Rushmore Bookstores at 13036 to the east, the Rocky Mountain forests to grow in tufts near the end of its branches. Hwy 244, Keystone, SD 57751, call SOUTH DAKOTA STATE PARKS the west, the deserts to the southwest and Reaching 75 feet, the state tree of South (800) 699-3142 or (605) 341-8883 or visit The South Dakota State Parks protect the native Midwest prairie. Dakota, the Black Hills spruce (Picea mountrushmoresociety.com. some of the most beautiful land the state glauca), is found in the cool gulches and ba- has to offer. More than 60 parks and rec- LIFE IN THE FOREST sins of Mount Rushmore. BADLANDS NATURAL reation areas across the state offer a Elevation determines the type of veg- HISTORY ASSOCIATION range of activities for visitors. From rocky etation in the Hills: the high granite peaks LIFE ON THE PRAIRIE Founded in 1959, the association is crags to sun-soaked prairies to tree-laden surrounding Mount Rushmore support The evergreen forests and stands of de- a nonprofit organization that assists the forests, South Dakota has it all for the only sparse plant life, while lower eleva- ciduous trees of the Black Hills are inter- National Park Service with educational, ultimate adventure. For more informa- tions and streambeds foster the growth rupted by stretches of fertile meadows, historical and scientific programs for visi- tion, visit gfp.sd.gov/state-parks or of hardwoods and spruce, as well as many gradually giving way to a sea of prairie tors to Badlands National Park. call (605) 773-3391. marshland weeds and grasses. A variety grass that flows past Badlands National Proceeds from association book sales of animals and birds can be found on the Park to become the . This var- help support park activities such as the BLACK HILLS PARKS & rocky ledges and in the crags, crevices and iegated prairie environment supports a dif- training of naturalists and visitor center FOREST ASSOCIATION staff; the publication of free visitor infor- The Black Hills Parks and Forests As- mation; and the funding of historical and sociation is a nonprofit interpretive asso- REINTRODUCTION OF THE BLACK-FOOTED FERRET scientific research, student internships, ciation partner of the National Park Service, special visitor programs and school out- National Forest Service, South Dakota Thought to be extinct in the 1970s, a small colony of this species was found on a ranch reach programs. Contact the Badlands Game, Fish & Parks and National Grass- near Meteetse, Wyoming. Canine distem- Natural History Association, P.O. Box 47, lands. It operates outlets in 14 locations Shutterstock per killed all but 18 ferrets in the colony. The Interior, SD 57750, call (605) 433-5489, in the Black Hills, including Jewel Cave survivors were trapped and protected by the or visit badlandsnha.org. National Monument, Wind Cave National U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and became Monument, Custer State Park, Black Hills part of a captive breeding program. CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL & Nebraska National Forests where publi- The black-footed ferret is a prairie resident The Crazy Horse Memorial pays trib- cations are available. For more information dependent upon extensive prairie dog colo- ute to the great Sioux warrior and is or to purchase, call (605) 745-7020 or visit nies for survival. Depletion of prairie dogs in the world’s largest mountain carving. blackhillsparks.org. the 20th century has lead to the near extinc- The Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation tion of this ferret. Captive-bred ferrets were works to protect and preserve American reintroduced in Badlands National Park in HOW WAS YOUR STAY IN THE The black-footed ferret (Mustela nigripes) 1994. Park staff are encouraged by wildborn Indian culture and traditions. It is com- BADLANDS? LET US KNOW. is considered to be one of the most endan- kits (young ferrets), some of which are now pletely funded by donations and admis- FOLLOW US! gered land mammals in North America. producing young. sion fees. Admission to the monument

40 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 41 NATURE & WILDLIFE NATURE & WILDLIFE

WATCHABLE WILDLIFE NPS

1 2 3

4 5 6 1 COYOTE (CANIS LATRANS) 4 PRAIRIE DOG (CYNOMYS LUDOVICIANUS) Prairie rattlesnakes are more often found in holes and under rocks than out in the open. The cry of the coyote is one of the most dis- The prairie dog is a , about the size of a rab- tinct sounds of the American West. bit, commonly found across South Dakota. These ferent, yet coexistent, diversity of life. Adult rattlesnakes can reach more than 40 are smaller than wolves and are very successful animals spend a large amount of time construct- predators. They eat small mammals, reptiles, in- ing dwellings. In recent years, the population of The lanced-leaved cottonwood (Popu- inches in length. sects and fruit. When hunting in packs, they are prairie dogs has been impacted by plague, carried lus acuminata) and the eastern cotton- While mountain lion (Puma concolor) capable of killing significantly larger animals. • by fleas. • Weight 2–3 lbs • Length 12–15 in • wood (Populus deltoides), named for their sightings are rare, there is a sizable popu- Weight 20–30 lbs • Length 3–4.5 ft • Active Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock three- to four-inch-long seed-bearing cap- lation that inhabits the Black Hills. Also year-round. Photo: Shutterstock sules that release cottonlike seeds, are known as pumas or cougars, they are tan 5 WHITETAIL DEER (ODOCOILEUS found in small numbers in the lower can- to light cinnamon with black on the back 2 AMERICAN BISON (BISON BISON) VIRGINIANSUS) yons of Mount Rushmore. of their ears and the tip of their tail. Adult Bison can grow up to six feet tall and weigh up The white hairs on the underside of the deer’s A vital range grass of the Great Plains, males can grow to 8 feet in length, includ- to a ton. They were reintroduced into the park af- tail and rump are an effective communication the blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis) is able ing the tail, and weigh 150 pounds. Adult ter wholesale slaughter reduced their numbers device. They graze on green plants and woody to withstand drought conditions extremely females may be up to seven feet long and from 60 million to 800 in the late 1800s. These vegetation, and thanks to their four-part stomach, can feed on food that other mammals cannot. Al- well, providing nourishment for range ani- weigh 90 pounds. powerful animals can climb steep terrain, jump though principally nocturnal, they can be active at mals during dry periods. Its leaves, which These powerful felines are apex preda- over fences and outrun humans! • Weight 800–2,000 lbs • Length 7–12.5 ft • Active year- any time. Weight 90–310 lbs • Length 6–7 ft • grow three to six inches, are made up of tors with few natural enemies. They prey round. Photo: Shutterstock Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock curved seed spikes, giving them a distinc- primarily on deer, but are opportunistic DESERT BIGHORN SHEEP tive comblike appearance. hunters. It’s true that mountain lions are 3 (LYNX RUFUS) 6 The prairie rattlesnake is the only ven- more likely to see you than you’ll see The bobcat is not often seen by visitors. (OVIS CANADENSIS NELSONI ) Massive curled horns are the most distinctive omous snake native to South Dakota, and them, but they are dangerous and aggres- Most are nocturnal and solitary, eat- feature of this non-native species. They were in- while seldom seen, is a common inhabit- sive and you should be prepared. If you ing mainly small mammals and birds. The ani- troduced to the area following the 1916 extinc- ant of Badlands National Park. Experts encounter one, stay calm. Never turn your mal’s ears are pointed and black-tipped with tion of Audubon sheep. Padded hooves allow it at camouflage, the prairie rattlesnake is a back or run. Make yourself appear larger, black hair tufts spiking upward. It’s named for to climb steep and rocky terrain. • Weight 150– light brown to green, with a yellowish belly. make a lot of noise and throw rocks and its stubby, or bobbed, tail. • Length 2–4 ft; 200 lbs • Length 5¼ ft (average) • Height 5–6 ft tail 4–7 in • Weight 20 lbs (average) • Active A dark oval patch with light colored bor- sticks. If you are attacked, stand your • Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock ders runs along the center of their backs. ground and fight back. year-round. Photo: Shutterstock

42 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | | BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE 43 JUST FOR KIDS There are ONLY 2

BECOME A JUNIOR RANGER sculptors and ask them what they would northern white rhinos Kids between the ages of five and 12 carve, where and why. can join this popular program at Mount Rushmore, Badlands and Jewel Cave to UNCOVER A MAMMOTH left on the planet. learn more about the importance of our na- in Hot Springs (approx- tional parks. By completing the fun activities imately 1.5 hours south of Mount Rushmore) described in the park’s Junior Ranger Booklet, offers kids four and up a unique, hands-on op- kids can earn ­Junior Ranger certificates and portunity to learn to excavate, map and take badges. To learn more, inquire at the infor- field notes at this world-renowned excava- mation or visitor centers. Daily Junior Ranger tion site. For more information about Junior Programs are offered at Badlands from mid- Paleontological Digs, write the Educational June through August. For little ones, Jewel Program Department at P.O. Box 606, Hot Cave also offers a Pee Wee Ranger Program Springs, SD 57747; or call (605) 745-6017. For for kids ages three to four. general information on visiting the Mammoth Site, open year-round, call (800) 325-6991. WALK THROUGH HISTORY The Living Memorial is a recorded guide of TATANKA: STORY OF THE BISON Mount Rushmore including narration, music, 30 to 60 million bison once roamed the interviews and historic recordings of Ameri- great plains of North America. By the close can Indians and workers who carved the of the 19th century, it’s estimated that fewer rock. You can rent a handheld wand for $6 at than 1,000 bison survived. The Native the Audio Tour Building across from the Infor- American Interpretive Center & Story of mation Center. The tour is available in English, the Bison tell their story. Journey through an Spanish, German, French, and Lakota. authentic Lakota Encampment with Ameri- can Indian Interpreters giving presentations HUNT FOR GOLD throughout the day. Call (605) 584-5678 for Get in the spirit of the 1876 Gold Rush! information or visit storyofthebison.com. Decades of rampant poaching have decimated Head for the streams of the Black Hills this species to the brink of extinction. But there’s hope. where amateur gold panners still regularly find placer gravel containing gold nuggets, San Diego Zoo Global is leading the fight to save these gentle giants.

flakes and dust. All you need is a gold pan Shutterstock and a little luck—any gold-panning enter- And your support to the San Diego Zoo Global Wildlife Conservancy prise will be happy to show your kids the creates action and impact. Will you join us? tricks of the trade. ™ USE YOUR IMAGINATION Together, we can turn things around. While touring, play “What do you see in the rock?” as you drive by the spires of ENDextinction.org/hope the Needles or the eerie moonscape of the Stop by the visitor center to see all the activities Badlands. Have your kids pretend they are for kids at Badlands National Park.

44 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | PHOTOGRAPHY

For millennia, we’ve looked towards the tion. Next, set your white balance to daylight heavens and contemplated what’s beyond settings (5500k) and turn on your mirror lock our orbit and universe. More recently, star- to avoid mirror shake. Wait until the moon is gazing has become increasingly difficult for out, too, as it’ll illuminate and add detail to millions of people living in developed areas. your foreground. Make sure that it’s behind If you live in a populated area east of the you. To capture star trails: Mississippi or along the Pacific coast, odds • Set your ISO at 200 to reduce digital noise. are that you can count the number of stars • Compose your image, making sure you you see on your hands. National and state have interesting features in the foreground. parks—remote and minimally developed— • Choose your focal length. The longer the not only protect our land, but also our dark focal length, the quicker your star trails will skies which are ideal for astrophotography. start to form. There are two primary types of astropho- • Set your camera to manual mode so that tography shots that yield different, but stel- you can select your shutter speed and lar compositions. A long exposure setting aperture. will show stars trailing across the sky, while • Set your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 for a shorter exposure will show pinpoints of best results. light—objects that a camera can capture that • Select “bulb mode” as your shutter speed. the unaided eye cannot. Both require a cam- • Use your cable release or remote to open era with interchangeable lenses and manual the shutter or set your timer for two to controls to set aperture, ISO, and exposure four minutes. AD settings. Here’s what you’ll need to start: Check your results. If your picture is too • A sturdy tripod: Simply put, a shaky tri- dark, increase the exposure time. If your trails pod will yield blurry photos. are to short, increase the exposure time. • A cable release or remote control or in- Keep playing around with your settings to get tervalometer: You’ll want to avoid touch- the results you desire. To learn how to take ing your camera to minimize shake. The photos of the milky way and millions of points addition of an intervalometer will allow you of light, visit ohranger.com/brightskies. to take sequential long exposures. • Batteries: Your aperture may be open for several hours, so it’s important to have

multiple fresh and fully charged batteries. Shutterstock • A wide lens: Use the fastest, widest lens available. • A head lamp: It’ll be useful to set up your equipment and illuminate your foreground. Check the cloud cover; if there’s too much wait until you have a clearer night. Before you start, set your focus to infinity and turn Photographing the night sky is as close as many off your autofocus and high ISO noise reduc- of us will get to exploring space.

46 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | IF YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY

It is possible to fit in a quick tour of Allow at least two hours to explore Mount Mount Rushmore National Memorial and Rushmore. Find your state’s flag while walk- Badlands National Park in one day. The ing down the Avenue of Flags right in front parks are a two-hour drive (100 miles) of the monument. Or, time permitting, come apart, so start early. While exploring, you back to the memorial for the nightly lighting will see highlights of the Black Hills region. ceremony, which begins at 9 p.m. during Coming from the east on I-90, turn into the summer (8 p.m. in the fall). Note: Reno- Badlands National Park at Cactus Flat (exit vations will affect schedules and openings. 131), then head south on Highway 240 for 10 Check the park website before making plans. minutes to the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. Continue south on Iron Mountain Road, Stop for lunch at Cedar Pass Lodge (April– which connects to Custer State Park’s October), visit the interpretive offerings or Wildlife Loop Road. A two-hour drive takes take a short hike near the visitor center. you around the loop where you will see Continue west on Highway 240 and stop an amazing array of animals. Often, entire at the many scenic overlooks along the way. herds of buffalo line the prairie as far as After you pass Pinnacles Overlook, head the eye can see. An alternate route back north to I-90 to exit the park. Continue west to Mount Rushmore is to complete three- on I-90 through Rapid City and take exit 57 fourths of the loop, then get on the Nee- to Highway 16 (Mount Rushmore Road), dles Highway and cut over onto Highway which will bring you to the memorial. 244 going east to the memorial. AD iStock

Driving between Mount Rushmore and Badlands National Park on Needles Highway, a National Scenic Byway­, you’ll be treated to sharp turns, narrow tunnels, granite spires and great views.

48 BLACK HILLS, BADLANDS & MOUNT RUSHMORE | www.nalgene.com For more inspiration, follow us here @nalgeneusa