january 2017 | issue 11
academy of art university founded in san francisco 1929
Making Connections | by Gladys Perint Palmer INDIAN WEDDINGS You’ve been invited Once the to an Indian guests move wedding? into the hotel ballroom, well, It’s a three day the drums, festivity? the shouts, Just go! the music, the noise, it’s all You haven’t been ear-splitting. invited to an Indian I know; once wedding? I was seven Go to India in stories above a January, the month wedding venue of weddings. Stay at a good hotel and observe. All - sleep was not you have to do is settle into an armchair in the an option. lobby and order a drink. Some Indian The bride, the groom, their families and the guests weddings saunter into the lobby and linger for a long time. take place They are in no hurry; this is the third day. outdoors. The women are gorgeous. They are dressed in On a recent exquisite clothes, made out of traditional Indian trip, we stayed silk fabrics, in brilliant colors, turned into modern at a Bangalore hotel where our balcony overlooked From our spying spot, we observed the ceremony evening dresses. (Why hasn’t this fashion reached beautiful gardens. For many days we noticed agile and the guests who lined up to wish the young Paris?) lads climbing trees to create some surprise. On the couple well. I couldn’t help notice that many guests The men are surprisingly casual, in open-necked wedding day, the surprise turned out to be fireworks were more focused on the buffet tables. and twinkling lights among the branches. shirts, with or without jackets. Isn’t it true all over the world that the way to a man’s Oh, but the jewels! This is the time when a bride We went down to the garden and peered from heart is through the stomach; and, that diamonds acquires serious jewelry. The jewelry shops are filled behind a hedge. “Why don’t you join the wedding?” are a girl’s best friend. with fathers, mothers, sisters, aunties – all advising someone asked us. “We haven’t been invited.” the bride. “Who’s going to stop you?” illustrations by gladys perint palmer.
P.S. – OH YES! THE JEWELS AT the center parting of the hair with a pendant falling AN INDIAN WEDDING! | over the forehead. In Maharashtra, this is replaced INDIAN WEDDINGS by the Mundavlya; a unique unisex ornament, by Varsha Shelar made of pearl strings, worn by both the bride and bridegroom. p.s. – oh yes! the jewels at an Oh yes! The jewels at an Indian wedding! Contrary In Southern India, traditional temple jewelry is to the belief… all that glitters at an Indian indian wedding! still a favorite. The Kasu Mala necklace is made of wedding is gold, silver, platinum, diamonds and so gold coins strung together, each bearing embossed much more. images of Goddess Lakshmi. The snake-like hair Across India’s length and breadth, spanning braid, called Choti or Jada, is decorated with ornate diverse communities, the most common and jewelry. And for Southern Indians, pure diamonds essential piece of jewelry worn by the bride is the are the bride’s best friend; she cannot leave the Mangalsutra, known as Thaali or Thirumangalyam maternal home without sizable diamond studs, in the south. This piece is a token of dignity and and her tiny shapely waist accentuated by a gold love, given to a bride by her groom. waistband with intricate detailing. In Northern India, the bride, the young maidens, All of the jewelry made of uncut diamonds, and not so young matrons, will all be decked from emeralds and rubies truly add to the dazzle! Of head to toe with chokers, necklaces, nose rings, course, ladies from the bride’s family will be sizing bangles and Payals or anklets, as well as Polki or up the jewelry worn by the groom’s family and vice Kundan - jewelry made of uncut diamonds. They versa. The tidbits about who wore the ‘best jewelry’ bridegroom will also be adorned with Maang Tikka, worn at will be discussed until the next wedding…. LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 2 january 2017 | issue 11
FIVE FACTS | Charlene Modena While the focus is on contemporary outcomes, 4. I received my MA in Sculpture from San Director, School of Jewelry and Metal Arts students use mixed media, traditional, and ‘digital’ Francisco State University with an emphasis in techniques. Here, we offer a forum for students to Metal Arts, and my MFA in Sculpture Iron from 1. Academy of Art learn the principles of creating and critical thinking, Academy of Art University. I have participated in University’s School craft and conceptual innovation. Our students numerous group and solo exhibitions throughout of Jewelry and graduate with a highly skilled portfolio, with a the world, and have the honor and privilege of Metal Arts embraces confidence and knowledge that allow them to thrive being included in the World’s Who’s Who of Women, learning as a cross- and prosper in today’s world. and Foremost Women of the 20th Century. cultural discipline. 3. Alumni entrepreneurs with their own brands 5. Please visit the School of Jewelry and Metal 2. The search include: Ashley Lagasse and Zoe Cope (Birds n Arts’ blog for the latest on alumni, events, featured for a personal, Bones), Anna Sheffield, Chrystal Sunshine, Tura collaborations, special guests and related news: visual language is Sugden, Elliot Gaskin, Candy Chu, Kelsey Simon, http://blogs.academyart.edu/content/jem/jem.html presented to the Deanna Wardley, Sydney Brown, Yucen Wavy Tang, To learn more about Charlene Modena and the students as a world Orly Ruaimi, and Dale Beevers. School of Jewelry and Metal Arts, visit here: http:// of opportunities. www.academyart.edu/academics/jewelry-metal-arts
STUDENT PERSPECTIVE | contest. My entry made it to “Redefine the future of the top 100 amongst 14,000 fashion and integrate India by Manpreet Rajpal entries - this gave me the into the global fashion Manpreet is a Jewelry and Metal Arts student; she confidence to pursue a career world.” also serves as vice president of the Indian Student As- in jewelry making. sociation, and as the programs chair with the Jewelry and Metal Arts student club, JEM. I decided to study in the United States, believing The legacy and the experience would help tradition of Indian me create jewelry with a jewelry by jewelry is invaluable contemporary twist. I manpreet rajpal. and I salute it. For believed that an education at photos by the people of India, Academy of Art University demetrius philp. it is one of the would give me the required oldest industries, education, skill, and and, the jewelry exposure. Here, I’ve found itself symbolizes incredible support and an emotional tie encouragement from my to the culture and teachers. The course of my traditions. education has exposed me In my personal experience, creating jewelry, like art, to metalsmithing and mixed is a path to self-knowledge. I often aim to create media techniques with an pieces that translate concepts and help externalize opportunity to evolve and thoughts, emotions and experience. Art has the pursue my personal feelings power to transform, as does jewelry. and concepts. At first, my interest in jewelry making started as After my graduation in 2018, I want to launch a hobby; eventually I was consumed. On a whim, my brand online and participate in the Lakme I participated in a national level jewelry design India Fashion Week; a bi-annual fashion event that has been conceived and created with a vision to,
STUDENT SPOTLIGHT | felt it wasn’t enough and wanted to reach beyond participating in a social and fundraising campaign and learn more. Now, I am at Academy of Art to benefit Shloka Missionaries, an organization Karen London interviews Aarti Utwani, University, working towards my MFA in Fashion helping underprivileged kids in rural India. president of the Indian Student Association. Merchandising. Q: Can you tell us about the Indian Student Q: Aarti, can you Q: What do you hope to do when you graduate? Association? give us a bit of an A: I graduate this semester (Spring 2017). I am A: The Indian Student Association (ISA) is a introduction about currently interning with Asha Market as a Stylist. community of Indian students at the Academy of your life in India? Asha Market is an e-commerce website for the US Art University. The Association aims to be the face A: I was raised in market. It is redefining the way Indian fashion is of the Indian student community and acts as a Mumbai, which sized and sold, making modern Indian fashion bridge between all Indian students – those who were is known as ‘the accessible and affordable without compromising raised in India and those who were raised elsewhere. city of dreams’. quality. I plan to transition into a full-time position We are connected through our heritage. I’ve wanted to with the company after I graduate. Q: Please tell us about your role as president of the be a part of the Q: What are you involved in outside of Academy of Indian Student Association. fashion industry, Art University? ever since I was a A: As president, it’s my responsibility to help the photo by deenesh sharma. kid. I decided to A: I am a freelance make-up artist, and I work students who are away from India feel connected make fashion my towards steadily gaining recognition as a fashion here. We celebrate most of the Indian festivals profession and entered Sophia Polytechnic, Mumbai ‘influencer’ through social media. I am also involved for my undergraduate degree in Fashion Design. I in a lot of volunteer and social work. Currently I am Continued on page 3 LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 3 january 2017 | issue 11
Student Spotlight continued from page 2 connects us. Q: Which events is ISA planning to host in 2017? to engage in our cultural traditions; we also host Q: How many members does the Indian Student A: Holi, Movie Night, Freshman Welcome and events like Bollywood movie nights, and other Association have? Diwali are in the pipeline. Apart from this we also social gatherings. This wouldn’t be possible without A: ISA is an ever-growing community. We are take part in Academy of Art University club mixers my colleagues Manpreet Rajpal (vice president and connected through our Facebook page, ISA ARTU (coming together with other student associations student in the School of Jewelry and Metal Arts) https://www.facebook.com/groups/ARTUISA/ and clubs) every year, and have meetings and and Meeneshwer Madhu (executive member and Even after a student graduates from Academy gatherings in intervals with our members. student in the School of Fashion). We make sure to of Art University, they are still a part of the ISA Q: Anything else you would like to share? add interesting events every year and to encourage community and continue to receive invitations our fellow Indian students to strike a balance to the events that we host. Today, we have 520 A: We appreciate the University’s support of ISA between school, social life, and the culture that members in our club. and look forward to our continued growth and their continued support.
RECENT TRIUMPHS…BRAVO! due to an illness. “To me, flaws are what makes us special,” she explains. “I want to create art that Jizhi Li: Dazzling the Jewelry Industry / by emphasizes scars and other imperfections, and that Academy of Art University News & Event helps people with them be more confident.” Since graduating Source: http://www.academyart.edu/about-us/ with her MFA from news-events/news/2016/october/jizhi-li--dazzling- the School of Jewelry the-jewelry-industry and Metal Arts, Jizhi ‘Gigi’ Li’s design talent has garnered her a number of awards and exciting opportunities to display her wearable jewelry sculptural objects at shows across the country. We are pleased to congratulate her on her most recent: a Fine Art Award in issue 45 of Creative Quarterly, one of the top art and design publications in the world. The collection of pieces Li created for her thesis, Perfectly Imperfect, explores her philosophy on beauty and body image. Body ornamentation is often used to distract attention away from the imperfections and flaws in our bodies, and her artistic intention is to frame parts of the body to created from tightly arranged, overlapping wires redecorate their imperfection. Li’s dramatic leg embellished with cloisonné. “It’s very sharp, looks adornment is the piece that earned her a Fine Art a bit dangerous, and restricts leg movement.” Award in Creative Quarterly. The design replicates what it feels like to have a “The piece is for people with flaws or disabilities,” disability, something she knows firsthand—one of jewelry by jizhi li. photos courtesy of says Li about the sculptural adornment she her legs was temporary paralyzed for several years academy of art university.
INSIGHTS | from an Alumni Coordinator Indian Student Association, as well as other clubs foremost thing to do is to continue good habits, with shared interests. These connections will make or to improve time management (and avoid Sindhu Balasetti is life easier on many levels. procrastination). Also, be sure to sign up for special an Academy of Art workshops; they are great for motivating additional We have an official Facebook page for Academy University Alumna learning and for the extra practice of developing of Art University’s Indian students: https://www. who resides in skills. It is really very important to find a balance facebook.com/AcademyofArtUniversityIndia/ Hyderabad, India between studying, having a social life, and relaxing; and the Indian Student Association page is here: and represents the setting up priorities helps you to sort tasks and https://www.facebook.com/groups/ARTUISA/ University there. devote time accordingly. She recalls her 2. Setting up a bank account is also very My experience at Academy of Art University for experiences as a important. It is necessary to have an account for the first time, and related feelings: student and provides transactions throughout the year. some insights for It was both a thrilling and exciting feeling to have 3. Having a route map handy, especially as you prospective and the opportunity to live in another country. Each walk through downtown San Francisco is very returning students. day came with a different experience but eventually helpful – whether it is a printout, guide map, or the new place became my ‘home away from home”. My advice for the new students who are just about smart phone app. Students can also use Academy I miss school and still reminisce about my days to start school: of Art University’s bus system and access the at Academy of Art University. Living abroad was schedule online. 1. Get connected. Making new friends with other certainly one of the best experiences of my life! students is essential. We encourage joining the For a continuing student: The first and the LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 4 january 2017 | issue 11
ADDITIONAL DESCRIPTIONS AND TERMINOLOGY OF INDIAN WEDDING JEWELRY | by Varsha Shelar
Bangles or Kadas: Bangles, oh the sweet tinkling sound produced by it! These adorn the wrists and come in a variety of designs made of gold and diamonds. Indeed, more than any other single jewelry form in India, the bangle is crafted from the widest variety of materials. Each region has its own special designs and preference for these. Nath or nose rings: Nath or nose ring is one of the integral parts of Indian bridal jewelry that symbolizes traditional value; although modern brides may find it uncomfortable the rings add to the beauty of the bride. Toe ring or Bichiya: The toe ring is usually made of silver and a special ritual is built around wearing the rings during the wedding ceremony. Usually these are gifts from the bride’s mother-in-law and are worn one each on the second toe. Kamarbandh or waistband: Most popular in Southern Indian wedding finery and dignifies the overall appearance of the Indian bride. Vaaki / Vanki / Bajubanth or armlet: This is worn on the upper arm and is usually made of gold and is embellished with precious stones. Payal or Anklets: These are all-time favorites with Indian brides; they are usually made of silver as traditionally only brides with a Royal lineage are allowed to wear gold anklets. wedding guests in a hotel lobby by gladys perint palmer.
1929 Richard S. Stephens, 1929 Clara Stephens, 1951 Richard A. Stephens, 1992 Elisa Stephens, Art Director for Sunset Magazine, Co-founder, Academy of Advertising son of founder Richard S. Stephens, granddaughter of founder Richard S. founds the Academy of Advertising Art San Francisco. becomes President. Stephens, is appointed President. Art with his wife Clara, with a beginning enrollment of 45 students.
Let’s Talk Art, India Academic Calendar facebook.com/ AcademyofArtUniversity editorial Editor-in-Chief: Edith Mead Barker Winter Intersession 2017: January 9 – January 27 twitter.com/academy_of_art Art Director: Mary Scott Contributors: Varsha Shelar, Karen London Spring 2017: February 6 – May 27 youtube.com/user/ Editor-at-Large: Gladys Perint Palmer Fall 2017: September 5 – December 18 academyofartu/ production: https://www.pinterest.com/ academyofartuni/ Mateo Tayamen and Mitchell Griffin
800.544.2787 | WWW.ACADEMYART.EDU | 79 NEW MONTGOMERY ST, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94105 Visit www.academyart.edu to learn about total costs, median student loan debt, potential occupations and other information. Accredited Member: WSCUC, NASAD, CIDA (BFA-IAD, MFA-IAD), NAAB (B.Arch, M.Arch) and CTC (California Teacher Credential)