CHARACTERIZING NATURAL-COLOR TYPE IIB BLUE DIAMONDS by John M
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Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
The Chemistry of Diamond Rings
THE CHEMISTRY OF DIAMOND RINGS Diamond rings are synonymous with engagements; diamond itself is an form (allotrope) of carbon, but other chemical elements can impact on its appearance. Here we look at ‘the 4 Cs’ and their chemistry links, as well as some of the metallic elements that help to make up the ring itself. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND CARAT 0.25 Ct 0.50 Ct 0.75 Ct 1.00 Ct 1.50 Ct 2.00 Ct 4.1 mm 5.2 mm 5.8 mm 6.5 mm 7.4 mm 8.2 mm SHALLOW IDEAL DEEP Top: weight in carats; Bottom: approximate diameter in millimetres. Diamonds not shown to scale, but are in proportion to each other. The cut of a diamond affects how well it reflects light. Diamond carat measures mass; one carat is equal to two Too shallow or too deep and the reflection of light is poor, hundred milligrams. Diameters are approximate, as they so the diamond seems to sparkle less. vary depending on the cut of the diamond. DIAMOND COLOUR DIAMOND CLARITY RING COMPOSITION WHITE GOLD Au 75% Pd 10% Ni 10% Zn 5% Rh PLATE D → F G → J K → M N → R S → Z F → IF VVS1/2 VS1/2 SI1/2 I1/2/3 ALMOST FAINT VERY LIGHT LIGHT COLOURLESS FLAWLESS OR VERY VERY VERY STERLING SILVER COLOURLESS YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW SLIGHTLY INTERNALLY SLIGHTLY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED INCLUDED FLAWLESS INCLUDED INCLUDED Ag 92.5% Cu 7.5% Pt TRACE Ge TRACE Zn TRACE POTENTIAL ELEMENTAL IMPURITIES GAINED DURING DIAMOND GROWTH 7 5 1 14 15 28 27 YELLOW GOLD Compositions given are NITROGENN BoronB HYDROGENH Sisilicon PHOSPHORUSP NiNickel Cocobalt TYPE Ia TYPE Ib TYPE IIa TYPE IIb approximate for a typical 0–0.3% N 0–0.05% N 0% N B impurities Au 75% Cu 12.5% Ag 12.5% alloy, and can vary slightly (clusters) (diffuse) Most diamonds have some imperfections. -
Download Course Outline for This Program
Program Outline 434- Jewellery and Metalwork NUNAVUT INUIT LANGUAGES AND CULTURES Jewelry and Metalwork (and all fine arts) PROGRAM REPORT 434 Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term: No Specified End Date End Term: No Specified End Date Program Status: Approved Action Type: N/A Change Type: N/A Discontinued: No Latest Version: Yes Printed: 03/30/2015 1 Program Outline 434- Jewellery and Metalwork Program Details 434 - Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term: No Specified End Date End Term: No Specified End Date Program Details Code 434 Title Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term No Specified End Date End Term No Specified End Date Total Credits Institution Nunavut Faculty Inuit Languages and Cultures Department Jewelry and Metalwork (and all fine arts) General Information Eligible for RPL No Description The Program in Jewellery and Metalwork will enable students to develop their knowledge and skills of jewellery and metalwork production in a professional studio atmosphere. To this end the program stresses high standards of craftship and creativity, all the time encouraging and exposing students to a wide range of materials, techniques and concepts. This program is designed to allow the individual student to specialize in an area of study of particular interest. There is an emphasis on creative thinking and problem-solving throughout the program.The first year of the program provides an environment for the students to acquire the necessary skills that will enable them to translate their ideas into two and three dimensional jewellery and metalwork. This first year includes courses in: Drawing and Design, Inuit Art and Jewellery History, Lapidary and also Business and Communications. -
The Red Emerald
The Red Emerald Black Album Words by Seth William Rozendaal Photos by David Rozendaal This work is for the enjoyment of gemstone aficionados around the world and throughout time, and dedicated to the divine muse who inspires everything. This book celebrates the Red Emerald’s public debut at the 2017 Tucson Gem and Mineral Show. Graphics taken from the Mineralogical Record Volume 47 Number 1: Colombian Emeralds where noted. The two photos of the Heart matrix specimen on the top of the page in Section VI were taken by Wayne Schrimp. Seth Rozendaal is responsible for the landscape photo in Section II, the beveled heart in Section VI and Office Suite Graphics. The Suite Treasure necklace photo in Section XIII was taken at the Brent Isenberger Studio. Cover and all other interior photos in this album were taken by David Rozendaal. Without his tireless dedication, this publication would not have been possible. For additional information, please contact: Seth William Rozendaal (515) 868-7207 [email protected] Index I - Red Beryl IS Red Emerald II - Formation III - Matrix Specimens IV - Wafers V - Prisms VI - Twins VII - Clusters VIII - Bixbyite Combinations IX - Topaz Combinations X - Hourglass Patterning XI - The Scarlet Spectrum XII - Facet-Grade Red Emerald XIII - The Red Emerald Suite Treasure I ~ Red Beryl IS Red Emerald The human infatuation with Emeralds runs so deep, and our desire for them traces so far back… It's one of the only gemstones found in rank-signifying Neolithic headdresses. Yeah, you heard me: Caveman Crowns. Aja Raden - Author, Historian and Scientist Diamonds may be forever, but only Emeralds are eternal; our appreciation of Emeralds stretches from the beginning of human civilization to the very end. -
The Wittelsbach-Graff and Hope Diamonds: Not Cut from the Same Rough
THE WITTELSBACH-GRAFF AND HOPE DIAMONDS: NOT CUT FROM THE SAME ROUGH Eloïse Gaillou, Wuyi Wang, Jeffrey E. Post, John M. King, James E. Butler, Alan T. Collins, and Thomas M. Moses Two historic blue diamonds, the Hope and the Wittelsbach-Graff, appeared together for the first time at the Smithsonian Institution in 2010. Both diamonds were apparently purchased in India in the 17th century and later belonged to European royalty. In addition to the parallels in their histo- ries, their comparable color and bright, long-lasting orange-red phosphorescence have led to speculation that these two diamonds might have come from the same piece of rough. Although the diamonds are similar spectroscopically, their dislocation patterns observed with the DiamondView differ in scale and texture, and they do not show the same internal strain features. The results indicate that the two diamonds did not originate from the same crystal, though they likely experienced similar geologic histories. he earliest records of the famous Hope and Adornment (Toison d’Or de la Parure de Couleur) in Wittelsbach-Graff diamonds (figure 1) show 1749, but was stolen in 1792 during the French T them in the possession of prominent Revolution. Twenty years later, a 45.52 ct blue dia- European royal families in the mid-17th century. mond appeared for sale in London and eventually They were undoubtedly mined in India, the world’s became part of the collection of Henry Philip Hope. only commercial source of diamonds at that time. Recent computer modeling studies have established The original ancestor of the Hope diamond was that the Hope diamond was cut from the French an approximately 115 ct stone (the Tavernier Blue) Blue, presumably to disguise its identity after the that Jean-Baptiste Tavernier sold to Louis XIV of theft (Attaway, 2005; Farges et al., 2009; Sucher et France in 1668. -
Intergrown Emerald Specimen from Chivor Tity Was Confirmed by Raman Spectroscopy
Editor Nathan Renfro Contributing Editors Elise A. Skalwold and John I. Koivula Intergrown Emerald Specimen from Chivor tity was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy. The inclusion exhibited a well-formed hexagonal prismatic shape with Colombia’s Chivor emerald mines are located in the east- pyramid-like termination (figure 2). Although intergrowth ern zone of the Eastern Cordillera range of the Andes emerald crystals have been described and documented in Mountains. Chivor translates to “green and rich land” in the literature several times (G. Grundmann and G. Giu- Chibcha, the language of the indigenous people who were liani, “Emeralds of the world,” in G. Giuliani et al., Eds., already mining emerald more than 500 years ago, before Emeralds of the World, extraLapis English, No. 2, 2002, pp. the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors (D. Fortaleché et al., “The Colombian emerald industry: Winds of change,” Fall 2017 G&G, pp. 332–358). Chivor emeralds exhibit a bright green color with a tint of blue; they have relatively Figure 1. An emerald crystal inclusion measuring high clarity and fewer inclusions than emeralds found in ~2.67 × 2.71 × 5.43 mm is found inside this large Colombia’s western belt. emerald specimen (18.35 × 10.69 × 9.79 mm) from Colombia’s Chivor mine. Photo by John Jairo Zamora. The authors recently examined a rough emerald crystal specimen (figure 1), measuring 18.35 × 10.69 × 9.79 mm, reportedly from Chivor. This crystal weighed 3.22 g (16.10 ct) and had a prismatic hexagonal crystal shape. Standard gemological examination confirmed the gemstone to be emerald, and ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) spectroscopy showed a classic Colombian emerald absorp- tion spectrum. -
Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique
GIT GEMSTONE UPDATE Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique By GIT-Gem testing laboratory 11 May 2016 Introduction In March 2016, a group of Thai gem dealer led by Mr. Pichit Nilprapaporn paid a visit to the GIT and informed us about a new garnet deposit in Mozambique, that was discovered near the western border with Zimbabwe. They also displayed a large parcel of rough and a few cut stones claimed to be the material found in this new deposit (Figure 1). According to the stone’s owner, these garnet specimens were unearthed from an unconsolidated sediment layer, just a few meters below ground surface. This brief report is our preliminary investigation on the interesting vivid purple garnet from the new deposit in Mozambique. Figure 1: Mr. Pichit Nilprapaporn (center), the stone’s owner, showing a large parcel of purple gar- net roughs claimed to be from a new deposit in Mozambique to the GIT director (left). The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) 140, 140/1-3, 140/5 ITF-Tower Building. 1st - 4th and 6th Floor,Silom Road, Suriyawong, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: +66 2634 4999 Fax: +66 2634 4970; Web: http://www.git.or.th; E-mail: [email protected] 11 May, 2016 Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique 2 Samples and Testing Procedure The stone’s owners donated some specimens (one 6.10 ct oval-facetted stone and 13 rough samples weighing from 3.83 to 9.43 cts) to the GIT Gem Testing Laboratory for studying. -
Renowned for His Iconic Designs and Breathtaking Gem Collections, Harry Winston Was a Man Who Knew the True Value of a Diamond
A BRILLIANT LEGACY Renowned for his iconic designs and breathtaking gem collections, Harry Winston was a man who knew the true value of a diamond. BY ALLISON HATA 54 A diamond is anything but just another stone. Highly coveted, precious and exceedingly rare, diamonds can take on different meanings: a symbol of status, a statement of love or a sign of purity. “Diamonds are a physical connection to [the earth] other than our feet on the ground,” says Russell Shor, a senior industry analyst for the Gemologist Institute of America. “When the earth was young and there was volcanic mass seething inside—this is how diamonds were formed. Diamonds connect us to that.” One man understood this intrinsic connection and dedicated his life to bringing the world closer to the precious gem through his jewelry designs and generous gifts to national institu- tions. Known as the “king of dia- monds,” the late Harry Winston was the first American jeweler to own and cut some of the most iconic stones in history, in addi- tion to setting a new standard for jewelry that showcases a gem’s natural beauty. Born more than a century ago, the young Winston—the son of a small jewelry shop owner—demonstrated a natural instinct for examining diamonds and precious gems. In subsequent years, he cultivated this talent to become one of the most prominent diamond merchants and designers of his time. His legacy lives on through the house of Harry Winston, which pairs his classic vision with a contemporary sensi- bility to create modern pieces that still grace the red carpet today. -
Garnet, Industrial 2016
2016 Minerals Yearbook GARNET, INDUSTRIAL [ADVANCE RELEASE] U.S. Department of the Interior September 2018 U.S. Geological Survey Garnet, Industrial By Robert M. Callaghan and Kenneth C. Curry Domestic survey data and table were prepared by Chanda C. Williams, statistical assistant. In 2016, U.S. production of crude garnet concentrate for combination with one or two other minerals, have reserves that industrial use was estimated to be 56,400 metric tons (t) valued can be mined at a low cost, and have the ability to react rapidly at about $12.8 million, a slight increase in tonnage and virtually to changes in market demand. The value of industrial garnet is unchanged in value from 55,200 t valued at $12.7 million in 2015. influenced by the size and grade of reserves, the type and quality U.S. production of refined garnet in 2016 was estimated to be of garnet mined, the proximity of deposits to infrastructure and 49,400 t valued at $24.4 million, a slight increase in tonnage and consumers, and the milling costs. The majority of industrial- a slight decrease in value from 48,700 t valued at $24.8 million grade garnet mined in the United States consists of almandine in 2015. U.S. exports of industrial garnet were 13,400 t, a 9% (iron-aluminum silicate) and pyrope (magnesium-aluminum decrease compared with those in 2015. Imports of garnet were silicate), although some andradite (calcium-iron silicate) also is estimated to be 150,000 t in 2016, a 38% decrease compared with mined domestically. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
Blue Diamond Prices Are on the Rise
This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. To order presentation-ready copies for distribution to your colleagues, clients or customers visit http://www.djreprints.com. https://www.barrons.com/articles/blue-diamond-prices-are-on-the-rise-1518037930 Blue Diamond Prices Are on the Rise By Ariel R. Shapiro Feb. 7, 2018 4:12 p.m. ET The fancy color diamond market is on the upswing, according to a report, with blue diamonds seeing the largest gains. Blue diamonds saw a 5.9% increase in value in the fourth quarter of 2017 in a year-over-year comparison, according to data published on Feb. 1 by the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF). Pink and yellow diamond prices decreased slightly in the same period, at 0.8% and 1.8%, respectively. The market overall was up 0.1%. A fancy vivid blue diamond ring (est. $14-18 million) goes on view at Sotheby's on Oct. 13, 2017 in London. ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES FOR SOTHEBY'S In November 2017, Christie’s sold a 8.67-carat fancy intense blue diamond ring in Geneva, Switzerland for $13.2 million. The reason for this disparity has less to do with demand, than it does with the rarity of the stone, says FCRF Chairman Eden Rachminov. Demand for yellow and pink diamonds is actually higher, but the amount of blue diamonds being mined is decreasing. “Almost nothing is coming out of the ground,” he says. Pink diamonds have seen the highest gains in the last 13 years with an overall appreciation of 361.9%, according to FCRF’s index, which is compiled through survey data provided by manufacturers and brokers. -
Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana
Report of Investigation 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg 2015 Cover photo by Richard Berg. Sapphires (very pale green and colorless) concentrated by panning. The small red grains are garnets, commonly found with sapphires in western Montana, and the black sand is mainly magnetite. Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology MBMG Report of Investigation 23 2015 i Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ............................................................................................................................1 Descriptions of Occurrences ..................................................................................................7 Selected Bibliography of Articles on Montana Sapphires ................................................... 75 General Montana ............................................................................................................75 Yogo ................................................................................................................................ 75 Southwestern Montana Alluvial Deposits........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Rock Creek sapphire district ........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Dry Cottonwood Creek deposit and the Butte area ....................................