Birding inGreece TRAVEL GUIDE TO BIRDWATCHING SITES IN

1 Recommended citation: Vlachos, C., Trigou, R. & Stavrakas, L., (2013) Birding in Greece. Travel Guide to birdwatching sites in Greece. Hellenic Ornithological Society, Athens.

Editing: Roula Trigou & Chris Vlachos Texts: Chris Vlachos Adaptation into english: Lefteris Stavrakas & Maria Koukiadi Photographs: Chris Vlachos Maps: Aris Manolopoulos, Dionysia Markopoulou & Danae Portolou Graphic design: ONArt/ Dennis Spearman

Cover photographs: Rüppell’s Warbler (front), Eleonora’s Falcon (back)

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrical, chemical, mechanical, optical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher.

© Hellenic Ornithological Society 2013 ISBN 978-960-6861-21-5

First published 2013 by the Hellenic Ornithological Society 2 Printed by COLORPRINT - Tsekouras Ltd. Contents

Foreword ...... 4 Valia Calda (Pindos National Park) ...... 106 Acknowledgements ...... 7 Lake Pamvotida Introduction ...... 9 and city ...... 112 About this travel guide ...... 10 Kalamas Delta ...... 116 How to use this guide ...... 11 Amvrakikos Gulf ...... 122 Birdwatchers’ Code of Ethics ...... 13 Mesolongi Map - index of birdwatching and Aitoliko lagoons ...... 130 destinations in Greece ...... 14 Mount Olympos ...... 138 mountains Dadia - Lefkimi - Soufli forest ...... 16 and ...... 144 Evros Delta ...... 24 Reservoirs of former Lake Karla, Mount Mavrovouni ...... 148 Lake Ismarida, Porto Lagos, Lake Vistonida and coastal lagoons ...... 30 Spercheios valley and delta ...... 154 Nestos Delta and coastal lagoons, Mount Parnassos ...... 160 Nestos Gorge ...... 36 Wetland complex of Strofylia Central Rodopi mountains ...... 42 and Kotychi ...... 164 Lake , Mount Beles Gialova lagoon ...... 170 and Mount Krousia ...... 48 Schinias marsh ...... 174 Gallikos, Axios, Loudias Mount Ymittos ...... 178 and Aliakmonas rivers’ deltas ...... 54 and Antikythira islands ...... 184 Alyki Kitrous and Agathoupoli lagoons ...... 64 South and East Limnos Island ...... 192 Lakes and Koroneia, Lesvos Island ...... 196 Rentina Gorge ...... 70 Island and Mikres Kyklades Voras, Tzena island complex ...... 204 and Pinovo mountains ...... 76 Mountains Asterousia, ...... 208 Lake Agras, Lakes and Checklist Petron, Lakes Cheimaditida and Zazari of the of Greece ...... 214 ...... 82 Contacts ...... 226 Prespa lakes and Varnountas mountains ...... 88 Bibliography ...... 231 Lake ...... 94 Notes ...... 232 Tymfi and Smolikas mountains ...... 100 Drawings ...... 236 3 Foreword

Despite its small size, Greece has a very interesting geomorphology and a remarkable natu- ral environment. Thousands of kilometers of coastline, countless islands and rocky islets, im- pressive mountain ranges, more than 680 wetlands, woodlands covering more than 25% of the country’s area and large expanses of shrubland contribute to the existence of hundreds of different habitats which, in turn, support a very rich birdlife.

With 449 recorded species so far, Greece - compared to other European countries - is a region of special and multilevel ornithological importance that covers the entire biological cycle of birds and it is not seasonal or accidental.

More than half (55%) of the recorded species are regular breeders. Among them, 98 Species of European Concern and 9 Globally Threatened Species, like the Dalmatian Pelican, Ferrugi- nous Duck, Black Vulture, Lesser Kestrel, Eleonora’s Falcon and the Audouin’s Gull. Greece is also very important, in local or regional level, for species such as the Yelkouan Shearwater, Storm Petrel, Shag, Bonelli’s Eagle, Rock Partridge and Rüppell’s Warbler. Finally, Greece sup- ports breeding populations of species that are of great zoogeographical importance such as the Great White Pelican, Pygmy Cormorant, Goosander, Capercaillie, Hazel Grouse, Chukar, Krüper’s Nuthatch and Cinereous Bunting.

In winter, populations of many resident birds are joined by the arrival of birds from northern countries; there are, however, 76 species that are mainly or solely winter visitors. Greece is of great importance for many winter visitors, especially for waterfowl and waders. Occasion- ally, waterfowl like the Mute Swan, Tundra Swan, Wigeon and Teal can be seen in record numbers of international importance. Furthermore, Greek wetlands attract many rare or globally threatened species like the Lesser White-fronted Goose, Red-breasted Goose, White- headed Duck, Dalmatian Pelican, Great Egret, White-tailed Eagle, Great Spotted Eagle, Impe- rial Eagle and others.

Due to its geographical location and relief, Greece lies on the migration routes of many birds 4 on their way from and to Africa. At least 29 species of the Greek checklist are strictly passage migrants, occurring only during spring or autumn migration. Several Species of European Concern or Globally Threatened Species pass through Greece during migration, including the Slender-billed Curlew, Pallid Harrier, Red-footed Falcon, Corncrake and Great Snipe. Our country also attracts birds that under normal circumstances would never occur in Greece, the southeastern Mediterranean or even the Western Palaearctic. Almost 95 species occur in Greece as accidental visitors, misled by the weather or movements of similar or relative species.

Interesting bird species can be seen all across Greece, depending on the biology and habitat of each species, the season, the location, etc. There are, however, areas of special significance for birdlife, known as Special Protection Areas that form the elite of the important bird habi- tats in Greece. So far, 204 areas have been designated, ranging from the pristine forests of the Rodopi mountains to the dry islands of the Aegean and from the salt marshes of Evros Delta to the alpine grasslands of the Pindos mountain range.

Greece is defined not only by the Parthenon frieze, the clinging monasteries of the Meteora rocks or the pure white houses in the archipelago… Greece is also defined by the bluish plumage of the Roller in the plain of , the majestic gliding of the Black Vulture over the pine forest of Dadia and the restless flocks of Eleonora’s Falcons in the rugged cliffs of Antikythira island.

This is the country that many environmentally aware tourists seek; a country of birds, our Greece. I am confident that this excellent book will make us love Greece and its birds even more.

George Handrinos Ornithologist 5 Foreword

Birdwatching: a hobby for millions of people of all ages worldwide, who want to watch the birds in their natural environment. The basic goal is to identify correctly each and every spe- cies and to record some of their special features related to their biology, distribution and behaviour. It stems from a deeper need to contact and comprehend Nature and can be prac- ticed all year round and in every corner of our world.

This is, more or less, the definition of birdwatching in dictionaries, websites, books, flyers, etc. This is also how it is “adapted” to Greek standards: a few dozens of birdwatchers, spread all over Greece, enjoying the birds in the country of Aristotle, the first recorded birdwatcher in History.

Along with them, a much bigger crowd of people from all over the world: foreign birdwatch- ers, most of them European, have realised the importance of Greece and its richness in bird species and visit it every year and not just for their summer vacations.

A crossroad of three continents with great habitat diversity (and in a much better condition compared to the other Mediterranean neighbors) and 449 species of birds “are waiting” for birdwatchers to find them. Among them, rare and endangered species, common and less common birds, species restricted to our geographical region or vagrants that unexpectedly appear after bad weather.

For some, birdwatching may be the ultimate dull hobby, where people stay hidden for hours in the same spot - some even wearing camouflage uniforms - just to see one bird, but for oth- ers this is far from being the case! It is your personal choice to spend your free time the way you want, it is also the desire to enter a different world, the world of birds, those feathered creatures you admire, even for a while; to share their lives for just a little, to get to know their needs without disturbing or scaring them away. A pair of binoculars, a notebook and, most importantly, your good mood and zest, along with some extra aids (field guide, field scope and a camera) is all you need.

High mountains and mountain ranges, forests and hills, plains and flat expanses, lakes, marshes, rivers and lagoons, coasts, beaches and the open sea; a whole country is there, with birdlife representatives in every ecosystem, waiting for us. With respect and love.

Nikos Probonas Birdwatcher 6 Secretary of the Hellenic Rarities Committee aio, aii Klui Pto Kpuo, Theodoros Kipouros, Petros Kalouli, Marilia Galinou, Eleni Dretakis, Michalis Evangelidis, Aris Angelos Christidis, Bounas, Tasos Babakas, Petros Andreou, Giorgos following people that provided information and ideas for the texts: the thank sincerely to however, like, would I them, ofcourse. of all to gratitude feel do I me. encouraged and guided accompanied, advised, helped, - strangers complete to friends close from - people of number great a country, the around birds photographing of years 25 the During Acknowledgments my life. to meaning extra an given have that creatures beloved those themselves, birds the to go thanks special Many ofmy family.out thesupport with happened have could this of say,none to Needless years. these all me in believing for Society Or nithological Hellenic the to gratitude my express to want also I Vavylis.nos andDimitris Tsougrakis,Giannis Tzimoulis, Handri Odysseas Giorgos Tsiakiris, Rigas Trigou, Roula Stavrakas, Lefteris Skartsi, tinou, Fotis Pergantis, Nikos Petrou, Nikos Probonas, Dora PapakonstanKostasPanagiotopoulou, Maria Naziridis, Theodoros Makrygianni, Eleni Latsoudis,Panagiotis seri, Kout Eirini Kourouzidis, Charis Kourakli, Peri Kominos, Wildlife Photographer Chris Vlachos - - - - - Ruff Philomachus pugnax 7 8

Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus Introduction Greece is well known for its natural beauty. The surrounding sea with all those beautiful islands and the thousands of islets, the intense relief and the unpolluted rivers and lakes constitute a popular destination for ecotourists. Furthermore, its geographical location, being at the crossroad of three continents - in one of Europe’s southernmost areas - is a fascinating feature per se, and the fact that Greece lies on several migration corridors of migrant birds makes it very attractive to birdwatchers.

So far, 449 bird species have been recorded in Greece. A very large number, consider- ing its land area which is one of the smallest in Europe. As more and more people get involved in birdwatching, the number of recorded species is definitely going to increase. Birds like the Rüppell’s Warbler, the Cinereous Bunting, the Krüper’s Nuthatch, the Ele- onora’s Falcon, the Black Vulture, the Lammergeier, the Great Spotted Eagle, the Booted Eagle, the Bonelli’s Eagle and the Audouin’s Gull are more than good reasons to visit this country! Even in large cities, like Athens or , visitors have the opportunity to see, at the right time of the year and within just a few minutes’ drive, species that are included in the rarities checklists of several European countries; Cretzschmar’s Buntings, Red-breasted Flycatchers, Eastern Orphean Warblers and Rock Nuthatches, are just a few of the target species.

The best seasons are, undoubtedly, spring and autumn, when bird migration is at its peak. Winter, however, is also very interesting, as many birds overwinter, especially when harsh weather in northern and eastern Europe forces many species to move south. Last, but not least, are the breeding species that “ornament” summer.

Northern and especially northeastern Greece is known for its bird diversity and the large concentrations of several species. The Spur-winged Lapwing, the Isabelline Wheatear and the White-headed Duck are among the birds found in this region. Ferruginous Ducks, Greater Sand Plovers and Cattle Egrets, can be seen, among many other species, in western Greece, with Amvrakikos gulf and several mountain ranges being the domi- nant features. Insular Greece is ideal for seabirds and Eleonora’s Falcons, while Crete still holds large populations of vultures and other large birds of prey. All of the above make Greece a paradise for birdwatchers of bird photographers. The relatively low accommo- dation and food costs, the excellent Mediterranean cuisine, the large number of archae- ological sites, the numerous monasteries, the short distance between mountainous and coastal areas are several more reasons to visit Greece. Which, of course, is not only rich in birds but in flora, , insects and sea life as well! This guide provides informa- tion for many species, Mediterranean and others, and their whereabouts. It also provides detailed maps with marked Birding Hotspots information on how to reach every site, the possible species to see and the best time to visit, as well as information on the non-avian wildlife of each site. Contact information and tips for birdwatchers and wildlife photog- raphers are also included.

This book unfolds valuable knowledge in order to protect these beautiful creatures that enrich and make our planet more beautiful. We plead for your contribution to help them continue to exist and perpetuate. There are ethic rules for nature lovers. Respect is the most important. 9 About this guide This guide aims to be a useful tool for birdwatchers, wildlife photographers and natural- ists who want to explore the birdlife of Greece. It includes 33 of the most interesting birdwatching sites, covering all aspects of the exceptional habitat diversity found in the country; from alpine grasslands to river deltas and from maquis scrub to dense pristine woodland. Priority has been given to sites that hold populations of typically Mediter- TION S C T Protection Status: E A

ranean or rare and endangered species. T T

U Information is given about the national or international protection status O

S

R P of the site. The sites have been grouped in seven different regions, depending on their geographi- cal location. A detailed map is given for each site, along with instructions on how to get there, the highlight species with their status of occurence, and an explicit description of the suggested routes within the site. There is also information for other interesting or plant species and any other (cultural, archaeological, etc.) attractions.

At the end of the book, there is useful contact information, a checklist of the birds of Greece, along with pages for your notes and drawings.

E O G T T T H How to get there:

E W

R General directions are given for accessing the area from Athens and Thes-

O E

H saloniki (depending on the site) by car, plane or boat.

ME TO I T V Best time to visit: T I S

S I T

E A suggestion is given on when to visit the area. B Sternula albifrons Sternula

10 Tern Little How to use this guide For each site, a short description of its geographical location and features is given along with the following information:

TION S C T Protection Status: E A

T T

U Information is given about the national or international protection status O

S

R P of the site.

Highlight Species: The most interesting bird species are cited, along with their status of oc- currence (resident, summer visitor, winter visitor, passage migrant). Resident: Birds that stay in the area throughout the year Summer visitor: Birds that arrive in spring to breed and depart in autumn Winter visitor: Birds that arrive in autumn and spend the winter, departing in spring. Passage migrant: Birds that occur only during spring and/or autumn migration.

E O G T T T H How to get there:

E W

R General directions are given for accessing the area from Athens and Thes-

O E

H saloniki (depending on the site) by car, plane or boat.

OUTE R Route: This is the most important section that describes each site, its Birding Hotspots and the suggested route to get to each of them. Priority is given to hotspots hosting highlight species; many more are of course cited along with valuable information on where and/or when to see them. Latin names can be found at the end in the checklist.

ME TO I T V Best time to visit: T I S

S I T

E A suggestion is given on when to visit the area. B

Other interesting flora/fauna: Information on any other interesting fauna or flora that occur in the site.

Extras/Tips: Any interesting archaeological or cultural attractions, along with tips to EXTRAS make your trip more rewarding, are cited in this section. 11 Maps

A detailed map is given for each site that includes the Birding Hotspots, as well as addi- tional data, such as sites of ecotourist interest, settlement limits, airports and habitats.

Map legend

Birding spots Important Bird Area (GR001 - IBA Code) Cities, towns, villages < 2,000 (population) 2,000 - 10,000 10,000 - 100,000 Agricultural > 100,000 and semi-natural land Prefecture capital Agricultural

Transport network Grassland or shrubland

Airports Elevation Motorway Elevation spot National road 100 m contour Regional road 200 m contour groups City highway 2,600 - 2,800 m Minor road 2,400 - 2,600 m Railway 2,200 - 2,400 m National boundaries 2,000 - 2,200 m Wetlands 1,800 - 2,000 m Saltmarshes 1,600 - 1,800 m River flow, estuary 1,400 - 1,600 m Lake 1,200 - 1,400 m

Lagoon 1,000 - 1,200 m River 800 - 1000 m Forests 600 - 800 m 400 - 600 m Broadleaved 200 - 400 m Conifer 0 - 200 m

Mixed 12 Anas strepera in Evros delta in Evros Anas strepera Gadwall Birdwatchers‹ Code of Ethics

1. The welfare of birds always come first. A birdwatcher or bird photographer should never disturb the birds and their habitat.

2. Tapes or MP3 files of bird songs should be used to attract birds with extreme caution and NEVER during the breeding season.

3. Do not try to follow a bird that flew away upon your arrival.

4. Don’t disturb vagrants or rare birds. If you discover one, report the observation to the Hellenic Rarities Committee or to the Hellenic Ornithological Society.

5. Abide by bird protection legislation at all times.

6. Don’t trespass on private property or enter a site without permission.

7. Respect the rights of other visitors at all times.

8. Behave as you would like others to behave. Be an ambassador for birdwatching.

9. When you visit a site, take only photographs and leave only your footprints. 13

F.Y.R.O.M. 5

6 10 3 4 12 ALBANIA 11 9 13 7 8

20 14 15 30 21 16 17 22

18

23

24 19

25 27 28

32 26

29

33 14 Map - index of birdwatching destinations in Greece Northeast (Eastern & Thrace) 1 1 Dadia - Lefkimi-Soufli forest 2 Evros Delta 3 Lake Ismarida, Porto Lagos, 2 Lake Vistonida and coastal lagoons 4 Nestos Delta and coastal lagoons, Nestos Gorge 5 Central Rodopi mountains North () 6 , Mount Beles and Mount Krousia 7 Gallikos, Axios, Loudias and Aliakmonas rivers’ deltas 8 Alyki Kitrous and Agathoupoli lagoons 9 Lakes Volvi and Koroneia, Rentina Gorge 10 Voras, Tzena and Pinovo mountains

31 Northwest (, Epirus) 11 Lake Agras, Lakes Vegoritida and Petron, Lakes Cheimaditida and Zazari TURKEY 12 Prespa lakes and Varnountas mountains 13 Lake Kastoria 14 Tymfi and Smolikas mountains 15 Valia Calda (Pindos National Park) West (Epirus, Western Greece) 16 Lake Pamvotida and Ioannina city 17 Kalamas Delta 18 Amvrakikos Gulf 19 Mesolongi and Aitoliko lagoons Central (, Central Greece) 20 Mount Olympos 21 Antichasia mountains and Meteora 22 Reservoirs of former Lake Karla, Mount Mavrovouni 23 Spercheios valley and delta 24 Mount Parnassos South (Peloponnese, Attica) 25 Wetland complex of Strofylia and Kotychi 26 Gialova lagoon 27 Schinias marsh 28 Mount Ymittos Islands 29 Kythira and Antikythira islands 30 South and East Limnos Island 31 Lesvos Island 32 Naxos Island and Mikres Kyklades island complex 33 Asterousia mountains, Crete 15 Dadia - Lefkimi-Soufli forest This mountainous area, located in the north of the Prefecture of Evros is probably the best place in Europe for the observa- tion of birds of prey. The forest of Dadia - Lefkimi - Soufl i is an especially important habitat for them. Thirty fi ve out of thirty eight Greek diurnal raptors have been recorded here along with seven out of nine owl species. It really seems to be a “raptor ark”!

TION C ST E A

T T This is a NATURA 2000 site and a National Park. Part of the area

U

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R is a Wildlife Refuge. It is also an Important Bird Area (GR004). P

16 percnopterus Neophron Vulture Egyptian 17 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Black Stork • Griffon Vulture • Black Vulture • Egyptian Vulture • White-tailed Eagle • Golden Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Great Spotted Eagle • Short-toed Eagle • Booted Eagle • GE Black Kite O T T • T H

E W

Long-legged Buzzard R

O • E Levant Sparrowhawk • H Lanner Falcon • Syrian Woodpecker • Barred Warbler • Eastern Orphean Warbler • Olive-tree Warbler • Semi-collared Flycatcher • Rock Nuthatch • Masked Shrike • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Aquila clanga Aquila

18 Eagle Spotted Great Aegypius monachus Aegypius Black Vulture Vulture Black

E O G T T To visit this unique site, you have to reach the city of in T H

E

W northeast Greece, c.800 km from Athens or 300 km from Thessaloniki.

R O

E There are also daily flights from Athens to the airport of Alexandroupo- H lis. From Alexandroupolis, drive north, towards Soufli. A few kilometers before the town of Soufli, turn left at the Dadia junction. You will reach the village of Dadia in no more than 10 minutes. Dadia is 65 km north of Alexandroupolis.

OUTE R The trigger needed for the all three species from the observatory, lo- complete protection of this cated opposite the well known feeding forest and its wildlife (mainly table (established in 1987). Other large by WWF Greece) was the presence of the birds of prey often come here to feed as very rare Black (or Cinereous) Vulture. This well. Depending on the season, the feed- is the sole breeding site of the species in ing table is visited by White-tailed Eagles, Greece and one of the last remaining in Great Spotted Eagles, Eastern Imperial Ea- Europe. There are approximately 100 birds gles and even Golden Eagles which come with a breeding success rate of 40%. Even by for an easy meal! The coexistence of all an inexperienced or passing birdwatcher these raptors - and especially of vultures will get the chance to admire this unique facing serious conservation issues and species flying above the surrounding an uncertain future - is an extremely rare mountain ranges. Perhaps it is much easi- spectacle that only a few places in the er to watch the more common Griffon Vul- world can offer. There is no doubt that Da- ture, but chances are that you will see this is one of them! magnificent bird. The third member of the Visits to the strictly protected zone (the vulture family, the Egyptian Vulture, can be “core zone”) are only allowed for research, seen in spring and summer; even though photography or filming with a special per- it is definitely smaller than the other two, mission issued by the Ministry of Rural it can be easily mistaken by birdwatchers Development and Food and the Manage- for the White Stork when flying. You will ment Authority of the National Park, al- definitely have the opportunity to observe ways under the escort of wardens. 19 Circaetus gallicus Circaetus Short-toed Eagle Birds, of course, do not restrain them- great views as it is a really calm bird of selves from flying outside the core zone! prey. You can easily watch Common Buz- Thus, all asphalt road routes can offer you zards and, in summer, Short-toed Eagles unique views of rare raptors which are usu- - often with prey hanging from their bill! ally hard to see. You can easily view all the In spring, it is very common to see Long- above mentioned vultures and eagles if legged Buzzards, Black Kites, Lesser Spot- you are in the right place (a vantage point) ted Eagles and Booted Eagles. The Honey- and at the right time. In the dense parts of buzzard, which also nests in the area, is the forest, if you are lucky you could possi- quite hard to spot, even though it is not bly come across any of the Accipiter hawks, rare. Most of the times, it is seen while fly- all of which can be found here. The most ing at medium height, testing your skills difficult species to observe is the Goshawk on raptor identification. It can be rarely that rarely occurs in exposed sites. The seen sitting on a branch or on the ground. Sparrowhawk is more easily seen while Similarly, overwintering Merlins are quite the Levant Sparrowhawk is slightly more hard to see. For this species, even though 20 difficult to track but, once found it offers it occurs in this area, it is better to visit the open expanses of the Evros delta, just a towards Soufli. The road junction to Dadia few kilometres to the south. The Peregrine is found a few kilometers before the town Falcon and the Kestrel are by far the most of Soufli. In ten minutes you will reach the common falcons, followed by the Hobby, village. On your way (2) between the junc- Lanner and occasionally the Saker Fal- tion and the village of Dadia you have the con, listed in order of difficulty. During chance to have close views of Lesser Spot- migration, there are good chances to see ted Eagles, Blacks Storks and Short-toed Eleonora’s Falcons, Lesser Kestrels, Red- Eagles foraging the fields or Diavolorema, footed Falcons, harriers and even Ospreys the stream on the right side of the road. It while in harsh winter conditions you can only takes five minutes from the village’s hope for the Red Kite and the extremely central square to enjoy the views of flying rare Rough-legged Buzzard. The Steppe Black Vultures, Booted Eagles or Egyptian Eagle is an extreme possibility, but dur- Vultures while drinking your coffee in the ing the last few years due to the increase serenity of the Dadia Information Cen- of birdwatchers it has become a regular, tre! At the premises you will also find the though very rare, sight. The Bonelli’s Eagle, Information Centre, a lovely space with a typically Mediterranean eagle, rarely vis- exhibitions, audiovisual material and a its the area as it prefers sites that are closer guest house, as well as the local office of to the sea! Nevertheless, it has been re- WWF Greece which has been conducting corded a few times. research and protection programmes for birds of prey for more than 15 years. This Among the nocturnal raptors of the area, is where the bus of Dadia Information the most common is the Little Owl. How- Centre will pick you up to take you to the ever, you will definitely spot the Tawny observatory (3) overlooking the raptor Owl and the Long-eared Owl, hear the feeding table (4). A visit worth making, calling of the Scops Owl and the Eagle even by more experienced and demand- Owl, as well as get a glimpse of the Barn ing birdwatchers. The distance to the feed- Owl. Even the Short-eared Owl has been ing table is not the closest you can get, but sighted in the area. you can still enjoy the astonishing sight of Even though raptors are undoubtedly 30-40 Griffon Vultures, 25-30 Black Vul- the stars of the area, many other species tures and - depending on the season - 8-10 nest here as well, some of which are very Egyptian Vultures, 1-2 Imperial Eagles, 3-4 important. The Black Stork often feeds Great Spotted Eagles, 5-7 White-tailed Ea- with other storks at Diavolorema (1) and gles, numerous Ravens, and perhaps even it is quite often seen in flight; the Roller, a Golden Eagle, all of them together! Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Semi-col- lared Flycatcher, Masked Shrike, Isabel- You can also enjoy a tour around the area line Wheatear, Olive-tree Warbler, Eastern by car, just be careful not to trespass re- Orphean Warbler, Barred Warbler, Sombre stricted access roads. On the road from Tit, Spanish Sparrow, Chukar as well as the Dadia village to Loutros, just before the Rock Nuthatch, Cretzschmar’s Bunting bridge of Pessani (5), you can look for the and Black-headed Bunting are species Lanner Falcon while in spring small groups that keen birdwatchers passionately try to of Eleonora’s Falcons fly low to pick insects add them to their list. On the whole, the in flight. Black Storks are quite frequent. species of birds nesting in the area are From the bridge of Pessani there is a hik- more than 90, whereas the total bird list ing trail through the beautiful forested includes almost 220 species! area with good chances for the Levant Sparrowhawk as well as woodpeckers and In order to visit this unique place you have warblers. This trail ends at Lefkimi. The to go past , heading north open areas around the village (6) can of- 21 fer you beautiful views of Masked Shrikes, tenna on the top; if you decide to go there ME TO I T V T I Black-headed Buntings and Bee-eaters. you will be rewarded with an astonishing S

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T

E From the village of Lefkimi you can reach view: all sorts of vultures in flight or roost- B the National Road via the village of Prova- ing at the nearby hill, while in spring the tonas. Heading north, you will reach the Peregrine Falcon that nests in the sur- village of Lyra. This is a really good spot for rounding area will be flying just above observing birds of prey and waders in the your head! flooded reedbeds created by dam - over flows. From the hills (7) by the National The area is truly a raptor paradise inviting Road you can observe Black Vultures, Grif- you to watch them in flight for hours, mak- fon Vultures, Ravens and other raptors as ing you forget the other wildlife around the temperature rises. Directly opposite, you, which is equally remarkable and im- almost at the southwest side of the area, portant for the biodiversity of the National lies Kapsalo hill (8) with its massive an- Park. Haliaeetus albicilla

22 White-tailed Eagle ME TO I T V Spring is defi nitely the best season for most of the site’s specialties. T I S

S I T

E Winter is ideal for vultures and other large birds of prey. B Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Vulture Griffon Other interesting fauna/fl ora Early in the morning or just before dusk, Roe Deer can be seen while driving from the National Road to Dadia. Friends of EXTRAS other wildlife can enjoy both large and small mammals and more than 40 reptile A special hide was created recently in species, while mushrooms, butterfl ies and the raptor observatory in Dadia for orchids are simply everywhere! It is also watching or photographing worth noting the presence of 24 bat spe- small . cies, which corresponds to 60% of the total recorded number in Europe (40 species) and 72% of the Greek list (33 species).

23 Evros Delta If you had to pick only one area for birdwatching in Greece, then you would have no other choice; Evros delta is the ideal place! River Evros is the second largest river of the Balkan Peninsula and the natural border between Greece and Turkey. The delta formed and the great va- riety of the adjacent habitats, attract large numbers of birds from the surrounding areas. The area is also located on the main migratory route of birds. A bird paradise, Evros delta is placed amongst the most popular destinations for Greek and foreign birdwatchers as well. So far, almost 320 species have been recorded here, which equals to more than 70% of the Greek checklist! Some of them are of international interest and importance, like the Slender-billed Curlew, a globally threatened species.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park and a Ramsar Site. Part of the

T T U

O

S area is a Wildlife Refuge. It is also an Important Bird Area (GR006). R P

24 clanga Eagle Aquila Spotted Great 25 Highlight Species

Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Lesser White-fronted Goose • Red-breasted Goose • Ruddy Shelduck • Dalmatian Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Bittern • Black Stork • White-tailed Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Great Spotted Eagle • Red Kite • Black Kite • Levant Sparrowhawk • Hobby • Little Bustard • Stone Curlew • Collared Pratincole • Spur-winged Lapwing • GET Mediterranean Gull O T • T H

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Gull-billed Tern R O

• E H Eagle Owl • Short-eared Owl • Bee-eater • Roller • Green Woodpecker • Syrian Woodpecker • Greater Short-toed Lark • Masked Shrike • Anser albifrons

26 GeeseWhite-fronted Aquila heliaca Aquila Imperial Eagle E O G T T The city of Alexandroupolis, which is only 15 km west of Evros Delta, is T H

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W located 800 km northeast of Athens or 300 km east of Thessaloniki. Daily

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E flights connect Athens airport with “Dimokritos” airport of Alexandroup- H olis, which is even closer to the delta.

OUTE R A good idea for observing a access to visitors. fairly large number of birds Driving straight on (you are actually driv- during a two to three day visit ing along the east embankment of the to the area is to set off from Loutra village - Loutros stream) will lead you to Drana it is situated approximately 7 km from the lagoon (2). This recently restored lagoon - airport or approximately 13 km from the which has suffered greatly over the years centre of Alexandroupoli, heading east. - will be on your left, while on your right hand side you will see Laki lagoon (3). From the main road, pass the first junction Drana is one of the largest lagoons of the to Loutra, leading to the Management Au- delta and an excellent site for thousands thority Visitor Centre, and you will see “Isi- of overwintering wild geese. Most of them dora” hotel on your left hand side. are Greater White-fronted Geese, but small Exactly opposite the hotel is an asphalt numbers of the very rare Lesser White- road (1) (which turns into a dirt road fur- fronted Goose and Red-breasted Goose ther on). This road will take you to the are also found, while the Ruddy Shelduck western part of the delta, an area with free is frequent. 27 During the same season, large numbers of the - very rare in Greece - Short-eared Owl. ME TO I T V T I ducks can be seen, as well as all three Eu- In spring, the central part of the delta is a S

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E ropean swans, while Cormorants, Pygmy unique place for birds and birdwatchers B Cormorants and Dalmatian Pelicans are alike. A great number of species comes very common. Equally common are Little here to breed or feed; Great White Peli- Egrets and Grey Herons, while the Bittern cans, Purple Herons, Black Storks, Glossy can be seen in the dense reedbeds of the Ibises, Spoonbills, Greater Flamingos, canals along the side of the dirt roads. Spur-winged Lapwings, Collared Pratin- The large waterfowl congregations attract coles along with many waders and herons many raptors, including the Great Spot- are spread all over the place: at Paloukia ted Eagle, the Imperial Eagle and the rare (4) (the other large lagoon), lake Nym- White-tailed Eagle. fon (5), lake Skepi (6), Neraïdotopos, but also next to the dyke you are driving on! Other frequently seen birds of prey are Heading north, following the main dirt the Peregrine Falcon, the Lanner Falcon, road towards Ferres, you will most prob- the Black Kite and the Red Kite, while a ably find Lesser Spotted Eagles, Avocets, lucky birdwatcher can even come across plovers, several terns, Bee-eaters and Rollers. Spring is also a very good season to explore Loutros hill (7) (don’t forget to visit the village’s famous thermal baths), where, if you are lucky, you will most probably see the Isabelline Wheatear, the Masked Shrike and the Olive-tree Warbler. However, if you spend some more time on the hill, the chances are that you will be rewarded with views of harriers, the Long- legged Buzzard and, if you visit the area at dusk, the call of the Eagle Owl. In spring, the flooded fields of Antheia - the area south of Aristino village (8) - and Apalos, hold thousands of songbirds, while herons are everywhere!

In the remains of the once extended ripar- ian forest, where the landscape - against all odds - still resembles a heaven on earth, Levant Sparrowhawks, Hobbies, Green Woodpeckers, and Syrian Woodpeck- ers have their vital habitat. As the forest stretches along the borderline with Tur- key, the use of a telescope or binoculars should be tactful and discreet. Needless Anser erythropus to say, the same applies to photographers as well.

In winter, a visit to the port of Alexan- droupolis (9) will possibly reward you with close views of Yelkouan Shearwaters and Shags. If you are determined, patient and a bit lucky when searching along the shore- 28 GooseWhite-fronted Lesser ME TO This area off ers great birdwatching opportunities all year round. Spring I T V T I S seems to be the best season, due to the variety of breeding species, fol-

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E B lowed by winter with the thousands of waterfowl and waders. Autumn and summer are no less productive, as a great number of passage mi- grants can be seen. Branta ruficollis Geese Branta Red-breasted line you might fi nd Mew Gulls or a fl ock of Other interesting fauna/fl ora Common Scoters or Velvet Scoters. Golden Jackals and are quite In spring you will be astonished by the common inhabitants of the area. large congregations of Mediterranean In winter, Wild Boars and, in rare cases, Gulls. Wolves can also be seen. There are also

herds of feral horses. Many rarities for Greece have been ob- served in the area, especially during mi- gration, most notable being the Steppe Eagle, the White-tailed Lapwing, the Little Bustard, or even extremely rare species such as the Arctic Tern, the Egyptian Goose EXTRAS and the Marbled Teal. In order to go deep into the delta As birdwatching becomes more popular, and numbers of birdwatchers visiting the you need a special permission area increases, many more species are ex- from the local Army Division pected to be recorded. Besides, many peo- or you must be escorted by a guide ple still visit the Evros delta with the dream from the Evros Delta Management of fi nding a Slender-billed Curlew. Authority (Loutra Visitor Centre).

29 Lake Ismarida Porto Lagos, Lake Vistonida and coastal lagoons The area of Porto Lagos, Lake Vistonida, the coastal lagoons and Lake Ismarida (or Mitrikou) constitute a complex of brackish or freshwater lakes located east of Xanthi and west- southwest of Komotini. The village of Porto Lagos is situated on a narrow strip of land between the sea and the very large Lake Vistonida. It is a unique birdwatching area in mainland Greece, attracting very interesting species, some of which are extremely rare. This area seems to have been a favourite of the Slender-billed Curlew, being second only to Evros delta in the number of confi rmed records in Greece!

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park and a Ramsar Site. It is also a

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30 White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala 31 32

Black Tern Chlidonias niger Calandra Lark Greater Lark Short-toed Roller Whiskered Tern Black Tern Caspian Tern Mediterranean Gull Slender-billed Gull Temmink’s Stint Broad-billed Sandpiper Spur-winged Lapwing Collared Pratincole Stone Curlew Eagle White-tailed Spoonbill Pygmy Cormorant Ferruginous Duck Duck White-headed Red-breasted Goose Winter visitor Highlight Species • • • •

Summer visitor • • • • • • • • Resident • • • Passage migrant • • • • •

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H E E R E O G T T Porto Lagos lies 20 km south of the city of Xanthi, which is c.720 km north- T H

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E You can also fly from Athens to , which is 60 km west of Xanthi. H

OUTE R In winter, the numbers of ing for White-headed). In spring it holds Black-necked Grebes in Lake herons and Spoonbills. If the water is shal- Vistonida, seem to be the larg- low in spring, this location is ideal for the est in southern Europe. This is also a win- Spur-winged Lapwing. During winter, it is tering area for the White-headed Duck, a worth exploring the surrounding area for rare species for Europe, which can be eas- geese since all four species, the Greater ily observed even through a car window White-fronted Goose, the Greylag Goose at the southeast side of the lake (1). The and, most importantly, the Lesser White- Pygmy Cormorant, Spur-winged Lapwing, fronted Goose and the Red-breasted Slender-billed Gull and the constantly Goose visit the area for a while to feed. The large numbers of Greater Flamingos are heron colony is also situated somewhere some of the most wanted species by around this area. birdwatchers. Just next to the chapel of (2) in Porto Lagos, Greater Driving south towards Fanari, before turn- Flamingos, Pygmy Cormorants and Great ing (5) in order to explore the smaller lakes Cormorants commonly gather in large that start from here onwards, take a look numbers. In winter, there are also large at the east side of lake Vistonida. Here populations of Great Egrets, Dalmatian you will need a good pair of binoculars or Pelicans and many gulls. Heading east, a telescope because distances are large just before entering the village of Porto - but it’s worth it. During winter you can Lagos you will see the saltworks (3) that spot White-headed Ducks, while during is teeming with birds. Black-winged Stilts, spring and summer, you are likely to find Avocets, plovers, sandpipers and stints, Ferruginous Ducks. The smaller lakes that including Temminck’s Stints, can be seen are located in line one next to the other when the saltworks is operational. (6) as you are heading east, are visited by The region is worth visiting even when many ducks and swans each winter, while the saltworks is inactive, especially in during the rest of the year you can view spring when all the surrounding culti- Greater Flamingos, pelicans and herons. vated fields brim with Rollers, Calandra As they are geographically located be- Larks, Woodchat Shrikes, Lesser Grey tween the area of Porto Lagos and Lake Shrikes and Black-headed Buntings. The Ismarida, these lakes could not possibly coastal areas south of the saltworks may be of no interest! offer the birdwatcher the opportunity to Their names? Lagos, Lafri, Lafrouda, Man- observe many interesting waders such as ganon, Xirolimni, Karatza (Arogi), Alyki the Oystercatcher, Broad-billed Sandpiper, (Mesi), Ptelea, Elos and lake Almyra. They (Red) Knot, Bar-tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, are ideal for birds like Avocets, Black- as well as many terns, among which the winged Stilts, Stone Curlews and Collared Caspian Tern. Heading east, before Porto Pratincoles. During migration, the sur- Lagos you will come across a raised water- rounding fields are teeming with wagtails, collecting tank (4). Just next to it, before Red-throated Pipits, Greater Short-toed reaching Lake Vistonida, is a small pool. Larks as well as other more common spe- In winter it is often full of gulls (including cies such as Marsh Harriers, Hoopoes and Slender-billed) and ducks (it’s worth look- Bee-eaters. 33 Aythya nyroca Aythya Ferruginous Ducks Ferruginous

Lake Ismarida or Mitrikou, as they used to recorded here. Rare species also occur in call it in the past, is located approximately the area, such as the Lesser White-fronted 15 km east of Porto Lagos. You can reach Goose, Ferruginous Duck, White-tailed it from the villages of Pagouria or Neo Eagle and many harriers. More common Sidirochori. It is a freshwater lake, the sur- species such as Common Buzzards, Spar- face of which used to be full of water lilies, rowhawks, Hoopoes Rollers and Bee-eat- providing nesting sites for Black Terns and ers can, of course, be easily seen. At the Whiskered Terns. Unfortunately, intensive large reedbed by the lake (7) you can spot groundwater drilling in the surrounding nests of Penduline Tits hanging from tam- area has increased water salinity, resulting arisks or Bearded Reedlings moving inside in the loss of most water lilies on which the the dense reedbeds along with large num- birds nested. Nevertheless, it still remains bers of Acrocephalus warblers. a good site to see these species. You can find all these species while mov- Its shallow waters form a magnificent ing along the asphalt road route by the habitat for herons, pelicans, Glossy Ibises, lake, leading to the beach of Molyvoti, Spoonbills, Water Rails, crakes and grebes where it is worth looking for the rest of the - even the Red-necked Grebe has been terns!

ME TO I T V Winter is the best season to look for the White-headed Duck and any rare T I S

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E grebe. Spring is also very interesting, as many “tropical” birds are breed- B 34 ing. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Tern Whiskered Other interesting fauna/fl ora Many reptiles, amphibians and the are the area’s greatest attractions to na- ture lovers. The sea is also promising for EXTRAS dolphins. Ismarida Lake used to be frequented by Lesser White fronted Geese, how- ever due to habitat loss the species has not been observed here since 2002. Keep your eyes peeled for this enigmatic species and if you record a sighting or even if you are suspecting one, please get in touch with the Hel- lenic Ornithological Society. 35 Nestos Delta and coastal lagoons Nestos Gorge River Nestos is one of the most beautiful rivers of Greece, es- pecially its unique gorge and delta. An ideal place for nature lovers, it is very rich in fl ora and fauna, especially birds and mammals. On its way to the sea, it forms an impressive gorge, which is very densely vegetated and has a rich fauna and fl ora. Nestos delta, with the riverine forest and the adjacent lagoons are home to a very large number of rare species like the Golden Jackal, the White-tailed Eagle and the sole population of wild Pheasants in Greece.

TION This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park and a Wildlife Refuge. The C ST E A

T T delta (including the adjacent lagoons) is a Ramsar site. Both the gorge

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P spectively).

36 spinosus Vanellus Lapwing Spur-winged 37 38

Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes Roller Owl Short-eared Gull-billed Tern Mediterranean Gull Great Snipe Spur-winged Lapwing Collared Pratincole Stone Curlew FalconSaker Levant Sparrowhawk Great Spotted Eagle Lesser Spotted Eagle Eagle Imperial Eagle White-tailed Griffon Vulture Pygmy Cormorant Dalmatian Pelican Pheasant Ruddy Shelduck Winter visitor Highlight Species • • • • • • •

Summer visitor • • • • • • • • Resident • • • Passage migrant •

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H E E R E O G T T Chrysoupoli, the closest town to the Nestos delta, is 680 km north of T H

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E Kavala which is very close to Keramoti (for those who are really in a hurry H to see wild Pheasants).

OUTE R Nestos gorge, the natural bor- wet meadows, riparian woodland, reed- der between the regions of beds, brackish shallow waters and sand Macedonia and Thrace, is cer- dunes. The last-named offer suitable nest- tainly one of the most beautiful parts of ing conditions for birds like the Stone Cur- the country. Especially the area between lew, the Kentish Plover and the Little Tern. Stavroupoli and Toxotes, with its steep This is also the westernmost breeding site riverbanks, the dense green hills and the of the Spur-winged Lapwing, and one of meandering river, is worth a visit by every the very few in northern Greece where it nature lover. The gorge is more easily ac- can definitely be found. The eastern part cessible from the south, from the village of (4) of the huge delta stretches into the Galani (1) near Toxotes, but also from the Prefecture of Xanthi and - apart from the north, from the town of Stavroupoli. sand dunes and wetlands - it also hosts the remaining riparian forest. Despite its The almost impenetrable wooded hills degradation, it still remains a unique for- going all the way down to the river cre- est gallery hosting many mammals. Koca ate a unique habitat for many birds, some Orman is also the only place in Greece of which are really hard to see. The Black where you will definitely have the chance Stork, Griffon Vulture, Golden Eagle, Boot- to hear or even see Golden Jackals, as long ed Eagle, Levant Sparrowhawk, Honey as you use your car as a hide! As for birds, Buzzard and the Eagle Owl are just a few of the area is famous for the sole wild popu- them. In spring, the birdwatcher can enjoy lation of Pheasants in Greece. These birds the chorus of many breeding songbirds; are different from the populations re- Nightingales, Subalpine Warbler, Eastern leased for hunting in that they are smaller Orphean Warblers and Sardinian Warblers and darker colored, lacking the white neck sing very close to each other giving you the collar and they are very shy. perfect opportunity to practice your skills in identifying bird calls! A really beautiful In spring and summer you can admire the trekking path runs next to the railway line, Lesser Spotted Eagle and the Levant Spar- which you can follow from Stavroupoli (2) rowhawk, while Eleonora’s Falcons, which to Toxotes (3). From this point to the sea, lay their eggs on the rocky coasts of covering an area 27 km long and 3-7 km in late summer, often visit the coastline wide, river Nestos waters gave life in the to feed on large insects. If you perform a past to “Koca-Orman” (Great Forest in Turk- thorough sea-watch you will probably be ish), the most beautiful and pristine ripar- rewarded with views of the Mediterranean ian forest of Europe. Shag since it breeds on the small island of Thasopoula (9). In order to visit the famous Nestos delta is located at the southern forest, at the crossroads leading to Monas- part of the prefectures of Kavala and Xan- tiraki you should take the road to the east thi, between the towns of Nea Karvali and from Chaϊdefto village (5). Avdira, covering an area of 500 km2. The river’s fluvial sediments have formed- la Your birdwatching tour can start as soon goons along the shoreline over the years. as you land at the airport of Chrysoupoli The area is a rich and diverse habitat with (6), a good place for the Short-eared Owl, 39 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Platalea leucorodia Platalea Spoonbills a rare species in Greece. You have to be You will also have the opportunity to ob- discreet though, as it’s not the easiest task serve several geese like the Greater White- to persuade the security surveying the fronted Goose and, less often, the Lesser area that you are using binoculars and White-fronted Goose and the Red-breast- cameras just because you are looking for ed Goose. The White-tailed Eagle and the an owl! Leaving Chrysoupoli, head south Great Spotted Eagle are also present, at- to Keramoti - keep a straight course and tracted by the very large numbers of over- you will reach it after you pass the villages wintering ducks and waders. of N. Karya and Chaϊdefto. A great idea for birdwatchers is to follow You should definitely visit the surrounding the route from Agiasma towards the del- lagoons (7) - Vassova, Erateino, Agiasma, ta. The road leads to the airport but you Kokkala, Chaϊdefto, Keramoti, Monastiraki, should take a left turn just before it. When Mangana - especially the shallow ones the rice fields are at their best, many terns located to the west of Keramoti and their fly above them - keep an eye out for Gull- surrounding mudflats, as well as those at billed Terns - while herons are all over the Agiasma (8) where you will almost certain- place. ly find Spur-winged Lapwings. But in On the left of the dirt road, there is a reed- mind that this is an extremely rare species bed hosting Bearded Reedlings and crakes. in Greece with only a few pairs breeding, If you keep driving to the east along the so you must avoid any disturbance. When National Road, you will come across river visiting these lagoons you will easily find Nestos. Before the bridge you can turn Little Bitterns, Purple Herons and all the right, heading south. other herons, Greater Flamingos, Avo- cets, Black-winged Stilts, Stone Curlews, At the small lakes a few kilometres down Collared Pratincoles and Mediterranean the road you are more than likely to ob- Gulls. Ruddy Shelducks often visit this serve Ferruginous Ducks in spring, while area, while Dalmatian Pelicans and Pygmy on the few remaining trees of the riparian Cormorants are common winter visitors. forest you might find flycatchers. Other Winter is also the right season to look for regular visitors of the area are Lesser Spot- Red Kites, a rare species in Greece that oc- ted Eagles, Booted Eagles and Levant 40 casionally visits the area. Sparrowhawks. ME TO Spring is the best season, followed by winter. In spring you can see all the I T V T I S residents along with summer visitors. Furthermore, Nestos gorge looks

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E B like it came out of a fairy tale! Sterna hirundo Sterna Common Tern Tern Common Other interesting fauna/flora According to the Management Author- ity, the fauna of Nestos Delta includes 20 mammals, 11 amphibians, 22 reptiles and 30 freshwater fish species. The “star” of the site is, of course, the Gold- en Jackal and this is best place in Greece to look for it. 41 Central Rodopi mountains Vast forests stretching beyond the Greek-Bulgarian border, names of places such as Zagkrantenia, Kara Ntere and Chaïn- tou, dirt roads accessible only on foot, century old towering trees, and chamois, rare bird species, endemic plants… This is only part of the wealth that nature off ers at the mountains of central Rodopi, north of Stavroupoli and .

TION C ST E A

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42 caryocatactes Nucifraga Nutcracker 43 Highlight Species

Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Capercaillie • Hazel Grouse • Golden Eagle • Honey Buzzard • Tengmalm’s Owl • Black Woodepecker • White-backed Woodpecker • Three-toed Woodpecker • Ring Ouzel • Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler • Marsh Tit • GE Willow Tit O T T • T H

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44 Cuckoo Tetrastes bonasia Tetrastes Hazel Grouse Grouse Hazel

E O G T T , the closest city to the area, is 650 km north of Athens and 150 km T H

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W northeast of Thessaloniki. From there, several paved or non-paved roads

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E cross the vast mountain range. The forest village at Elatia is 70 km north H of Drama. Driving distances, however, is the last thing you will be con- cerned with when you visit this amazing place.

OUTE R The area is vast, with some Eagle, the Booted Eagle, the Goshawk, places indeed still unexplored. the Woodcock and the Red-breasted Fly- Densely forested and often catcher. impenetrable areas hide many surpris- es. Here you will find the southernmost A typical route starts from Paranesti (1) distribution of several fauna and flora and leads to the Virgin Forest of Fraktos species and every nature lover will un- (Zagradenia). Driving north along the as- doubtedly be amazed by the scenery. For phalt road you initially have river Nestos birdwatchers in particular, the area offers flowing by your side. Then you drive up an opportunity to view species such as the road in the forest among conifers and the Nutcracker , the Hazel Grouse and the beech trees, and finally the asphalt road Capercaillie, all in a single site, a fact not route gives way to a dirt road and then to occurring anywhere else in Greece. More- forest roads winding towards the Forestry over, this is the breeding site of nine out Guardhouse of Fraktos. On your way, you of the ten European woodpeckers, except will possibly find Honey Buzzards, Ravens for the Wryneck that occurs only during and thrushes. Further down, just before migration. the conifers, enthusiastic birdwatchers can look for the Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler, a This area is a paradise for owl lovers as well, species that nests in eastern Europe. since - apart from the common species - there are also Eagle Owls, Tawny Owls, In order to enter the forest dirt roads of Tengmalm’s Owls and the sole population Fraktos you will need a special permission of Pygmy Owls in Greece. And there is a lot issued by the Forestry Service of Drama or more! Breeding species include the Black the Forestry Guardhouse of Fraktos. If you Stork, the Egyptian Vulture, the Golden obtain it you will be allowed to continue 45 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Pernis apivorus Pernis Honey Buzzard Honey Buzzard and drive in the Virgin Forest, but only plies to other distrustful birds such as up to a certain point. The more you head the Jay or the hard to see Bullfinch. The to the north the more opportunities you birdwatching prize though, will definitely have to spot the Marsh Tit, the Willow Tit go to anyone who gets to find the Hazel and the Treecreeper. You can even find Grouse. A good spot for this bird is the these species next to the Forestry Guard- region of Tsakalos but you will definitely house (2)! need a 4x4 vehicle to reach the place. All of the roads around here are ideal for trek- Another typical route starts from the vil- king or mountain biking, for those who are lage of Livadero (3), (which is located fit enough… outside the IBA). From there head towards Sidironero, and after you’ve left behind The third itinerary is equally interesting: it one of the dams constructed by the Pub- starts from Stavroupoli, crosses Karyofito lic Power Corporation in Nestos, you will and finally reaches the small settlement of cross coniferous forests and you will reach Leivaditis (5). In the beginning you drive the Forest village (4) and the hotel of Ela- through deciduous woodlands and then tia (Kara Dere). you cross pine and Silver Birch forest. After Here, in June and July you have the Leivaditis you can head up to the moun- chance to see the Nutcracker, this being tain peaks of Tsichla, Chaidou and Ery- its southernmost distribution limit in Eu- manthos. On your way towards the bridge rope and the only locality in which it is of Erymanthos, keep your eyes open for found in Greece. If the forest were not so Capercaillies and Nutcrackers. The same dense, you would be able to spot many applies to the woodland before Tsichla. of the bird species that visit the area and Hazel Grouses and Black Woodpeckers are it would also be much easier than it is in also possible to see. other forests since the birds are less wary here - so grab the opportunity to practice Finally, west of this large area, and north of on locating and identifying them by their Mikromilia (6), there is a small but very im- songs. The Black Woodpecker, for instance, portant Silver Birch forest; this is the place can be easily spotted and seems less timid where you should look for the White- 46 here than in other regions. The same ap- backed Woodpecker. ME TO June is probably the best month as “springtime” is at its peak; birds, mam- I T V T I S mals, lots of butterfl ies and other insects are fully active and most fl owers

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E B are blooming. Autumn is also a good choice as the forest colours create a magical scenery, keep in mind, though, that the weather is unstable and may ruin your trip. Winter is great but movements are hampered by deep snow. Generally speaking, the landscape is amazing no matter what sea- son you go! Treecreeper Certhia familiaris Treecreeper Other interesting fauna/fl ora Rodopi is very rich in mammals; Brown Bears, Wolves, Wildcats, Chamois, Roe Deer and Red Deer inhabit the dense forests, EXTRAS along with , Wild Boars and Hares. A total of 45 diff erent species, including This is a very promising site many bats, has been recorded. It is also for Greek rarities like the Pygmy Owl rich in reptiles and amphibians and, at the and the Three-toed Woodpecker. same time, a botanist’s paradise. 47 Lake Kerkini, Mount Beles and Mount Krousia Lake Kerkini and the surrounding area is one of the most interesting birdwatching sites in Greece. A week’s visit, es- pecially in spring, can off er you the opportunity to observe more than 300 bird species. Encircled by a river, marshes, ri- parian forest, fl ooded fi elds as well as cultivations and montane habitats, the lake itself has a rich avifauna all year round. The best period to visit is from early April to late June, when many species breed, but the winter is equally beautiful here with thousands of ducks and geese!

TION Lake Kerkini is a NATURA 2000 site, a Ramsar site and a Wildlife Refuge. C ST E A

T T Mts Krousia and Beles (Kerkini) are also NATURA 2000 sites and partly

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P (GR020, GR021, GR022) and part of a National Park.

48 crispus Pelecanus Pelicans Dalmatian 49 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Lesser White-fronted Goose • Red-crested Pochard • Ferruginous Duck • Scaup • Goldeneye • Smew • Goosander • White Pelican • Dalmatian Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Black Stork E • O G T T T H

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Golden Eagle • H Lesser Spotted Eagle • Great Spotted Eagle • Black Kite • Honey Buzzard • Goshawk • Levant Sparrowhawk • Merlin • Eagle Owl • Black Woodpecker • Grey-headed Woodpecker • Syrian Woodpecker • Lesser Spotted Woodpecker • White-backed Woodpecker • Penduline Tit • Rose-coloured Starling • Golden Oriole • Phoenicopterus roseus Phoenicopterus

50 Flamingos Greater Pastor roseus Pastor Rose-coloured Starling

E O G T T Lake Kerkini is 600 km north of Athens and 100 km north of Thessaloniki. T H

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E pean cities) with many daily flights. The lake can be accessed from Litho- H topos village in the south, taking the Thessaloniki- National Road or Kerkini village in the northwest, taking the Thessaloniki-Kilkis National Road (longer route).

OUTE R In spring, following the route as of four species of swallows and martins. (1) from the village of Livadia If you go to the spot where Kerkinitis flows towards the lakeside village into the lake (3), you will also find nesting of Kerkini, you will count dozens of White Penduline Tits and Long-tailed Tits. Leav- Stork nests and birds will be moving ing the west dyke and heading towards around calmly and undisturbed among the dam at Lithotopos, there is a flooded people doing their everyday works. The plain between Kerkini and Koryfoudi. small port of Kerkini (2) is just a few min- Many wintering ducks visit this area along utes’ walk from the village centre and it’s with herons and Snipes. In spring you one of the best spots on the west dyke to will have the chance to see Great Crested observe Great Crested Grebes, Dalmatian Grebes in their floating nests and forag- Pelicans, Great Cormorants and Pygmy ing Black Kites, while Greylag Geese often Cormorants. If you decide to go towards appear around the cultivated fields. If you Kerkinitis torrent in winter, on the way you approach the consecutive curves before will observe Pochards - and possibly the Lithotopos (4) after dusk, you can listen to odd Long-tailed Duck among them - Shov- Nightjars in summer and, if you are lucky, elers, Pintails, Goldeneyes, Great Egrets, you may even spot an Eagle Owl sitting on Little Egrets, Grey Herons and Kingfishers. the asphalt road, waiting for its next prey! You will also find many different common A few kilometres before the straight road songbirds, as well as Hawfinches and Yel- leading to Lithotopos, there is a site where lowhammers, looking for food on the the White-tailed Eagle has been sighted. ground or in the bushes next to the dyke. Lithotopos is the place where you have In spring, this route can offer you views of the opportunity to view large numbers Dalmatian Pelicans, Great White Pelicans, of the common bird species of the area, Squacco Herons and Night Herons, as well while at its south side (5), in winter, many 51 ME TO ducks - among which the Red-crested is accessible by boat. The delta triangle is I T V T I Pochard - can be viewed. After the dam an ornithological paradise! S

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E you can drive the lake’s east dyke, which B is the longest. In the dense stand of pop- The riverbanks of Strymonas (11-12), both lars at the beginning of the dyke, you can in the old and the new riverbed, are very easily hear the sweet song of the Golden rich in birds. You can see foraging Black Oriole in spring. The Goshawk often hunts Storks , which probably overwinter in the just before the single chapel of the dyke, area as well, Lesser Spotted Eagles and while the colony of Sand Martins struggles Short-toed Eagles. Hoopoes, Bee-eaters to survive in the canal on your right hand breed along with warblers, shrikes and side. Heading towards the northeastern Black-headed Buntings. Furthermore, rari- part of the lake, where river Strymonas ties like the Ring Ouzel and the Rosy Star- flows into, there are spots offering splen- ling have been sighted here. did views (6-7) and vantage points for birdwatching. At the northern part of the lake, the small port just below Mandraki village (13) is a On your way there, depending on the place where the Greater White-fronted season, you will possibly observe vari- Geese and the rare and threatened Lesser ous raptors; Sparrowhawks, Goshawks, White-fronted Geese gather in winter. You Merlins, Peregrine Falcons, Great Spotted can use a field scope to have good views Eagles, White-tailed Eagles and the ubiq- from the pier. uitous Common Buzzards fly along this You can also look for breeding Levant route looking for their prey. The largest Sparrowhawks, three species of wood- concentrations of birds can be found at peckers and the Wryneck. Equally interest- the beginning of the Strymonas “delta” (8). ing is the area south of , while the Greater White-fronted Geese, Lesser White rocks north of Vyroneia are still a possible Fronted Geese, Smews and Scaups along breeding site for the Eagle Owl. with many other ducks, two pelican spe- cies, Pygmy Cormorants and Cranes, are Keeping the lake on your left hand side, commonly observed here. However, you turn towards the villages of Livadia and definitely need a field scope to get good Kerkini to complete the circle around the views. In any case, access to the delta is area. Between them, on your left, there forbidden and you can only reach it by is a dirt road leading to where the west boat from Kerkini and Mandraki, always dyke starts. There you’ll find another small escorted by guides from the Management port where hundreds of ducks, herons and Authority. waders gather in winter. Further south, af- ter approximately 2 km, there is a pump- A boat trip can offer you closer views of ing station. At this part of the lake (14) you large concentrations of Greater Flamingos, can see in winter - if you are lucky! - Goo- Avocets and other waders. The riparian for- sanders and possibly the White-headed est (9), which faces serious threats due to Duck. the big fluctuation of the water level, still teems with life in spring. There are nests of As the lake and the surrounding area is a Cormorants, Pygmy Cormorants, herons, wintering, breeding as well as stopover Spoonbills and Glossy Ibises everywhere. site for passage migrants, many - more or less rare - species have been recorded At the same are you can also see the here. platforms with artificial nests success- fully crafted for pelicans. Beautiful images, At the north and west of the lake you see 52 worth viewing even from a spot (10) that the mountains of Kerkini (Beles) and Ma- ME TO I T V T I S The best period is from early April to late June, when all breeding species

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E B are found, followed by winter and the thousands of waterfowl. Podiceps cristatus Podiceps Great Crested Grebe Grebe Crested Great vrovouni (Krousia). Mount Beles, which is Other interesting fauna/flora the natural border between Greece and Wolves, Jackals, Wildcats, Wild Boars, Roe Bulgaria, holds breeding Black Storks, Deer and Otters are some of the mam- Lesser Spotted Eagles, Black Kites, Honey mals that occur in the area. Herds of do- Buzzards, Levant Sparrowhawks, Black mestic Water Buffalo are another attrac- Woodpeckers and there are good chances tion. Reptiles, amphibians, butterflies and for the White-tailed Eagle or the Golden a very rich flora, render the lake and the Eagle. These birds, albeit less common, are surrounding mountains as one of the best also found at the more easily accessible destinations in Greece for nature lovers. Mount Krousia. 53 Gallikos, Axios, Loudias and Aliakmonas riversÕ deltas The deltas of Axios, Loudias and Aliakmonas, along with the estuary of Gallikos, the lagoon of Kalochori and the lagoon of Alyki Kitrous further south, form one of the most impor- tant areas in Greece for breeding, wintering and passage mi- grant birds. Birdwatchers and nature lovers from Thessaloniki are very lucky to have such habitats in close range, as Kalochori is literally at their doorstep!

TION C ST This is a NATURA 2000 site and a Ramsar site. Part of the area is a Wild- E A

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U life Refuge. Two Important Bird Areas (GR028, GR029) are included in this

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54 melanocephalus Gulls Larus Mediterranean 55 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Red-breasted Merganser • Red-throated Loon • Black-throated Loon • Dalmatian Pelican • (non breeding) Pygmy Cormorant • Glossy Ibis • White-tailed Eagle • Osprey • Great Spotted Eagle • Long-legged Buzzard • Levant Sparrowhawk • GE Lesser Kestrel O T T • T H

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Red-footed Falcon R

O • E Merlin • H Crane • Oystercatcher • Stone Curlew • Collared Pratincole • Temmink’s Stint • Terek Sandpiper • Great Snipe • Phalaropes • Slender-billed Gull • Mediterranean Gull • Gull-billed Tern • Short-eared Owl • Roller • Greater Short-toed Lark • Calandra Lark • Burhinus oedicnemus Burhinus

56 Curlews Stone Calidris alpina Calidris Dunlins

E O G T T Kalochori lagoon is 500 km north of Athens. If you decide to enter the area T H

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W from Kleidi and river Aliakmonas then count 35 km less. Kalochori is only

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E 8 km south of Thessaloniki, and there are many daily flights from Athens H (or several European cities) to the airport of Thessaloniki.

OUTE R Driving from Athens to Thes- Keeping the river on your right, you can saloniki, 35 km before your drive along its embankment towards the destination you will see a sign sea. This track can be quite difficult to drive for the village of Kleidi. Enter Kleidi - where in winter, even with a 4x4 vehicle. The pos- you will find many White Stork nests - and sibility of getting stuck in the mud is high, follow the signs to Thessaloniki. After the especially shortly after a rain. The em- bridge don’t turn right following the main bankment is much more dry (and dusty!) road leading to the Veroia-Thessaloniki in spring and summer and will reward you National Road. Turn left instead, in order with beautiful scenery, often along veg- to drive in parallel to the Thessaloniki-Ath- etation galleries. Many birds can be seen ens National Road. In approximately 400 in the river, including Garganeys, Mallards, m there is an opening below the National grebes, Great Cormorants, Pygmy Cormo- Road. Cross it and you will find yourself rants, and you may also see the Coypu, a driving along the dirt road routes (1) lead- large that escaped from fur farms ing to the delta of Aliakmonas! and has colonised the delta of Aliakmonas and the surrounding wetland. In the dense In spring, you will come across flooded vegetation there is a medley of bird songs, fields (2) brimming with life. Herons, with Nightingales being the leading sing- Spoonbills, Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, ers. In reedbeds and bramble, Eastern stints and sandpipers, Black-tailed God- Olivaceous Warblers, Cetti’s Warblers and wits and Ruffs are everywhere. Bee-eaters Acrocephalus warblers defend their ter- and shrikes, Spanish Sparrows and Tree ritories, their songs being nothing more Sparrows perch on the tamarisk stands, than high-pitched shouts. At the oppo- while White Storks and Rollers are fre- site bank, there are stands of poplars, the quent visitors. Golden Oriole’s favourite tree, while Com- 57 58

Little Owl Athene noctua ing! amaz is place the so even but you, over all be will mosquitoeswetland typical The tinue onfoot. con only can you !), shepherd the of (beware pens livestock the see you when So everywhere! puddles wicked are there will be really hard for it from here on, since it driving, are you vehicle what matter No places in Greece that it has been recorded. the - lucky Owl, Short-eared this being areone of the few you if - and Eagle tailed the Eagle,GreatSpotted the White- see to winter,In saltflats. chances good are there to way giving sparser, becoming etation closer to the delta, you will notice the veg further Driving branches. protruding the on lurk Sparrowhawks and Buzzards mon - - - and very close to it. From point 6, follow 6, point From it. to close very and Aliakmonas of northeast the to located is It rest. the resembling its river, area a surrounding than rather canal large a more like It’s stop. next the is Loudias River Pratin Collared coles. and Curlews Stone for water,look to close expanses vast the On Gull andtheGull-billed Tern. the Slender-billed Gull, the Mediterranean being significant most delta, the of islets the on breed terns and Gulls Flycatcher. Semi-collared the even Flycatchers, lared Col Flycatchers, Pied Cuckoos, peckers, Wood Syrian see also will you but Snipe, Great the is notable most productive.The very be can forest riverine the and delta the towards route the migration, During - - - from a very closedistance!from avery fishing of way this observe usually gulls and fish. Terns with up lifted quickly then and submerged being is which Greek), in “krevatina” a (called tool is fishing It traditional water. river’s the above hanging structure net-like a across come will you routethis of beginning the at Somewhere way. the along Moorhens and Coots ons, asher as well dives, fishing spectacular performing terns see to chance the have will you Road, National the towards ing head and right your on Loudias Keeping the prey.for searching while reedbeds, dense above hovering gracefully Harriers Marsh and sandpipers and stints various Plovers, Avo Kentish Stilts, Oystercatchers, Black-winged cets, find also will season you the on Depending indeed! dise tern’spara A round. year all seen be can Terns Sandwich while Terns, Caspian find will you autumn, even In Terns. White-winged and Terns Whiskered Terns, Black Terns, Little Terns, Common see can you sea the to next route the of road. asphalt part The an become recently has Loudias, of bank river the to next one the it, of part a only and road dirt gravelled a is route whole the canal, the beach and river Loudias. The “Π” large a has follow will you route The sea. the towards allel, par driving continue and canal, the over bridge small the to left heading road the (3) is very interesting, as in spring spring in as interesting, very is

shape, defined by defined shape, ------y h tatr, il ed o atr some after you lead will tractors, the by destroyed places at is which road, asphalt The here. Delta”. left “Axiosfor Turn signs towards Athens. At some point you will see runs parallel to the National Road, heading that road the take again. will youway This right and right turn then Road, National the above bridge the pass Thessaloniki, to road the follow point this From lastra. Cha then and Malgara reach and Road) National the beneath subway the lowing (fol Loudias of area the exit out, running time’s If shore. the to close embankment, the of end the by Curlews and Lapwings of populations large the in surprise rare a for hope also can wild you but Axios, of horses the of herds across come may you area; the at look close a taking worth it’s win 2007 of the ter in here observed were Cranes interesting,though evenleast the is Axios and Loudias between area The area. vast this of middle the in approximately cated lo Axios, is complex this of river next The to avoid someSparrowhawk.when trying formations incredible their is impressive equally is what winter,and in here gather winter. Impressive in populations of Starlings Lapwings many and spring in incoles interest, but they host many Collared Prat left your on fields The where herons, terns and - depending on depending - and terns herons, where fields, rice many see will you way your On Axios. of embankment the to kilometres (5) I yu ae nuh time enough have you If . (4) may seem of no of seem may - - - - - Ruddy Turnstones Arenaria interpres 59 60

Merlin Falco columbarius egnes r tpcl itr visitors. winter typical are Mergansers Red-breasted and Loons Black-throated area. sea the closely winter,watch in here (7) houses wooden the Approaching quent. fre quite are while WhimbrelsCurlews, of full usually is area The there. food for ing search are waders the of water.Most the of edge the to attention special Pay road. the of sides both from birds see to meters ten every stop a make haveto mayyou as left your on sea the keeping slow, describe. Drive to easier is route this because right turn not, If you. for decide light the you are birdwatchers or photographers let If Axios. and Greek) in (“Nisi”island means chori, or head right towards Nisi of Afroditi Kalo - Gallikos towards left turn either to chapel small a see will you embankment the with road asphalt the of Red- the footed Falcon are foraging. and At the junction Kestrel the Buzzard, mon Com the Harrier, Hen the Harrier, Marsh the as such raptors smaller - season the of the mussel cultivators, and if you are (6) . You have You. - - - - in numbers! increased have birdwatchers the because they suddenly decided to visit the area but have become frequent sights, not because Over the last years the Red-throated Loons crossroad you will see a deserted wooden deserted a this see will youcrossroad At Afroditi. of Nisi renowned the to you lead will first. This at downhill slightly road dirt another crosses the dyke road, the down even Further Goshawk. or a songbirds, for lurking Merlin a side hand right your on spot might you winter in while Pelicans, Dalmatian and Cormorants,GreatPygmy see Cormorants definitely will youtowards Axios, Heading sighted here the houses! justafter was Dotterel a 2008, autumn In tographs. pho splendid and observation close for Owl Little opportunity this Grab perching. a be might windows open the or tiles roof the On side. hand left your on ways al dyke, the to next just houses smaller even some see will you houses, wooden the to close dyke, wide the along Moving (8) going - - house. There is another Little Owl here. pass through houses inhabited by - And a Kestrel usually sits next to it, gazing men and oyster cultivators, which are sup- into the distance. Once you turn left, take ported on poles (10). a look at the flooded tamarisks on your right. The local Kingfishers will come very The image reminds of the fishermen’s vil- close to you from February to April. The lages of the 18th century, with Thessalo- dirt road you’ll be driving on for about half niki in the background. Most birds will be an hour is at the same level with the water, literally by your side. Plovers, including maybe lower at times! It’s not really conve- Grey Plover, stints and sandpipers, Ruddy nient for birdwatchers but it is for photog- Turnstones, Slender-billed Gulls, Mediter- raphers. The birds are usually next to you ranean Gulls and Kingfishers are the birds though. At the first big left turn, look at you will definitely find from this point al- the dry branches on your right, about 20- most all year round. Just before the light- 30 m away. They are the only ones in the house there is a tavern situated almost in area and the Peregrine Falcon uses them the water. While eating there, you will be as an observation point. To your left, af- able to observe Greater Flamingos, ducks ter the destroyed boats, you’ll see an area and possibly a passing White-tailed Eagle. very popular among Greater Flamingos. If A birdwatcher’s bliss… you move gently, you will be able to enjoy watching them from a distance of 10 to Turning back, you reach the point where 15 m. Approximately 200 m further down the dirt road crosses the central dyke. In and to your right, it is the home of a pair of order to see the famous Daneio, the east Oystercatchers. After a while, but slightly embankment of Axios, turn left and fol- to your left, there is a meeting point for low the central dyke. At some point you the Mediterranean Yellow-legged Gulls; will need to get out of the car to open a you might as well find a Caspian Tern gate-like construction made of branch- somewhere around them. Towards the es and wire, which prevents the cows same direction there is a place where you from leaving the area. Open it, drive in will find mud paddles instead of a road, and then close it again. You are now on and this is where you can enjoy a great va- a straight dirt road heading north to the riety of waders (9). Avocets, Black-winged National Road. Axios is to your left while Stilts, Kentish Plovers, Little Ringed Plo- to your right you can see Daneio, a pretty vers, Little Stints, Sanderlings, Dunlins, wide canal with reedbeds, always hold- Curlew Sandpipers, Temminck’s Stints, ing water in it. Daneio is simply amazing Wood Sandpipers, Green Sandpipers, Red- in spring! All the herons regularly visiting shanks, Spotted Redshanks, Greenshanks, the area can be seen here; Bitterns, Little Marsh Sandpipers, Black-tailed Godwits, Bitterns, Night Herons, Squacco Herons, Ruffs and Snipes are all here, depending Little Egrets, Great Egrets, Grey Herons on the season. And you can watch them and Purple Herons! Not to mention Glossy through your car window, at a distance of Ibises, Spoonbills, Pygmy Cormorants and 5 to 10 m. In autumn, they are “framed” in many different ducks, depending on the the beautiful red shades of the halophytic season. Black-tailed Godwits, Hoopoes, vegetation. Leaving behind this “exhibi- Bee-eaters, Nightingales, warblers and tion of waders” you will come across a shrikes can be seen from the raised em- small bridge. On your right, emerging bankment. The Levant Sparrowhawk has from the water you will see an old barbed- also been recorded, while Sparrowhawks wire fence. Pygmy Cormorants sit here and Common Buzzards are very common. in winter, while in spring terns take their At the end of the embankment, looking place. Moving towards the end of the dirt to the northwest, you will possibly see a road, where a lighthouse stands, you will stand of big trees where a mixed colony 61 ME TO Sandwich Terns dive in the water. One of I T V T I the two pump stations possibly “hides” a S

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E Barn Owl, at least for as long as the win- B dows are broken.

Next to the second pump station, there is a flooded area where Terns and Little Terns breed, also visited by large numbers of all terns of the area, as well as Greater Flamin- gos. The whole area is a breeding site for the Black-winged Stilt, the Avocet and the Redshank. Approaching Kalochori, just before and after the taverns that used to serve food here, you will definitely see Osprey on passage, usually in September. It either sits on the poles you see in the background facing Thessaloniki or fishes

Buteo buteo Buteo in the surrounding area. The coastal dyke, where there is a small water pipe for the lagoon’s water, offers you the ideal view- point in order to admire the fishing tech- nique of the terns. From there you will

Common Buzzard Buzzard Common also observe the mascot of the area, an al- of Magpies, Hooded Crows, Jackdaws and most domesticated wild Little Egret com- Rooks is found in spring. ing as close as two meters from you, and you will also find Black-necked Grebes at Heading back to the chapel, at point 6, a very close distance. You will also watch go straight ahead towards Gallikos and the Osprey munching freshly caught fish Kalochori. Just after you pass the chapel, on the submerged wooden poles, as well there is a small abandoned factory (11). as Greater Flamingos, Dalmatian Pelicans, You will definitely spot a Little Owl here Mute Swans and many waders. and possibly a Barn Owl. In autumn, large numbers of Stone Curlews can be seen at After this location you will find a cross- the left side of the dyke, gathering here roads (12); if you turn right you will reach just before they start their migration to the flooded parts of Kalochori and if you Africa. The whole of the left side is inter- continue straight on you will reach the esting when flooded, since it can be full village of Kalochori. Turn right and you’ll of waders, Slender-billed Gulls and her- find yourselves on the raised coastal dyke ons. Now you have the sea on your right, that leads to the famous lagoon of Kalo- where Shelducks, Dalmatian Pelicans, chori (13). And it is famous because here Pygmy Cormorants, Curlews, Grey Plovers - as well as in the area of Gallikos - many and many other waders gather. The fish- rare species in Greece have been sighted ing huts situated by - or almost in - the wa- lately. One of them is the Terek Sandpiper. ter are ideal birdwatching hides, as long as Kalochori lagoon is located literally on the you have the permission by the owners. verge of the urban area of Thessaloniki In front of one of them, there is a colony and yet holds large numbers of Greater of Mediterranean Gulls, on an islet just 50 Flamingos, Avocets and Black-winged m away. In front of the pump stations you Stilts. This is a feeding site for many wad- will come across on your way, Little Egrets ers and raptors; Marsh Harriers, Hen Har- 62 and Black-headed Gulls are fishing and riers, Common Buzzards, Kestrels and Per- ME TO I T V Spring or winter? Winter or spring? These are the best periods for all four T I S

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T rivers. Autumn, nevertheless, is also very interesting for passage migrants. E

B Avoid visits in mid-summer! egrine Falcons are common sights, along Aliakmonas and Axios, above the National with ducks, grebes, Great and Pygmy Road, are IBAs. Herons at the river banks, Cormorants, herons, gulls and terns. Off waders in the mudfl ats, Glossy Ibises and the coast, Cory’s Shearwaters, Yelkouan Spoonbills in the shallow waters, terns on Shearwaters, Shags, as well as Red-breast- the islets and raptors in fl ight, all provide ed Mergansers and Black-throated Loons beautiful images to the birdwatcher who have been recorded. If you have enough decides to explore this area. At the steppic time and patience, the lagoon of Kalochori grasslands along river Axios you can see is the ideal place to look for a coloured Long-legged Buzzards, Lesser Kestrels and ring and a code among the hundreds of Rollers. Greater Flamingo’s legs that can be closely viewed with a fi eld scope. The fact that the area is a migratory bottleneck for birds Other interesting fauna/fl ora defi nitely makes the wetland of Kalochori As many as 31 diff erent species unique. There’s no doubt that this wetland have been recorded in the area. Among should be protected! the most important, the Otter is the one seen most frequently. Wolves, Jackals and We haven’t visited river Gallikos yet. You Wildcats are occasionally seen. Badges can access the area from two diff erent and Red are much more common routes. If you are driving along the Na- and Ground Squirrels are still widespread. tional Road, either towards Thessaloniki Introduced Coypus (still extending their or towards Athens, just before the river range, unfortunately) are also quite fre- bridge there is a car park and a road cross- quently seen, especially in Daneio and the ing below the National Road that leads to mouth of River Aliakmonas. The view of the embankment of Gallikos. The embank- herds of feral horses, originating from ani- ment ends at Gallikos delta where you can mals released more than 30-40 years ago, see Thermaikos bay. At its fl ooded waters, is simply majestic. two extremely rare species in Greece - the Pectoral Sandpiper and the Wilson’s phalarope - were sighted recently! Gal- likos, of course, hosts many other species, not only rare ones. This is where Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, Common Terns and Little Terns, breed, often side by side. Many ducks, stints and sandpipers visit its wa- ters in winter. This is where Ospreys stop to feed and Mute Swans overwinter, many of which stay here almost year-round. Cet- ti’s and other warblers sing at its riverine EXTRAS reedbeds, while herons are fi shing. And all this happens less than half an hour away This used to be a favourite stopover from the centre of Thessaloniki! site for the Slender-billed Curlew. Keep your eyes open! Life in the rivers is also vibrant away from the delta. So both the northern parts of 63 Alyki Kitrous and Agathoupoli lagoons Alyki Kitrous and Agathoupoli lagoons are two very interest- ing birdwatching areas in northern Greece. Both are situated very close to the Athens-Thessaloniki National Road and are c.60 km south of Thessaloniki. A great variety of common and less common species can be seen in winter and spring.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site and a Wildlife Refuge. Alyki Kitrous lagoon is

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S R an Important Bird Area (GR043). P

64 hispaniolensis Passer Spanish Sparrow Alyki Kitrous lagoon

65 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant White-tailed Eagle • Great Spotted Eagle • Red-footed Falcon • Merlin • Hobby • Hen Harrier • Montagu’s Harrier • Collared Pratincole • Calandra Lark • Greater Short-toed Lark • Spanish Sparrow • GE Mediterranean Gull O T T • T H

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Slender-billed Gull R

O • E Caspian Tern • H Stone Curlew • Black-tailed Godwit • Dalmatian Pelican • Spoonbill • Woodchat Shrike • Lesser Grey Shrike • Moustached Warbler • Yelkouan Shearwater • Glareola pratincola Glareola

66 Pratincole Collared Haematopus ostralegus Haematopus Oystercatcher Oystercatcher

GET O T Alyki Kitrous lagoon is c.450 km north of Athens and 60 km south of Thes- T H

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R saloniki. Agathoupoli lagoon is c.17 km north of Alyki Kitrous lagoon. Ex-

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H its for both destinations are clearly signed in the National Road.

OUTE R Driving from Athens to Thes- martins as well as swifts will be flying over saloniki, and after leaving your head incessantly. Once you arrive at behind you Mt Olympos and the port of Pydna, take a close look at the , you will reach the town of Kitros gulls that sit on the boats or fly among with the salworks and the lagoon just next them. The Mediterranean Gull, which used to it. Access is easier from the old National to sustain one of its largest breeding colo- Road, where signs direct you to Pydna and nies at the nearby saltworks, can certainly Alykes. There is a long straight route (1) be found here. Access to the saltworks is leading to the beautiful port of Pydna but not allowed without a special permission. don’t drive fast, especially in spring. Low If you are allowed to enter then you can speed and an open window will help you drive on the roads among the salt pans. It locate Calandra Larks and Greater Short- will probably be a really hard ride for your toed Larks in the fields along the left and car since there is salt everywhere and your right side of the road, as well as the ubiq- vehicle will definitely be full of it under- uitous Crested Larks. The irrigation canals neath. But if you decide to go for it you you will see along the roadside or perpen- will have good views of most of the birds dicular to it with vegetation on their banks of the area. Mediterranean Gulls, Yellow- host many species during this season. legged Gulls and Slender-billed Gulls are House Sparrows mixed with Spanish Spar- a sure bet. If you go by the sea (2), before rows and Tree Sparrows cram the branches reaching the central building, it is highly of the bushes, while Whitethroats choose possible to see Oystercatchers, Kentish more isolated spots to sing. On the cables Plovers, Common Terns and - in autumn and in the abandoned factory on your left, - Caspian Terns fishing in the sea, further you will possibly see the Roller and defi- away from the coast where the water is nitely the Little Owl, while swallows and still shallow. After the building, the road 67 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Phoenicopterus roseus Phoenicopterus Greater Flamingo Flamingo Greater

goes on for another 100-150 m and then chapel on your left. The narrow dirt road it ends. This is a good place (3) to look for leading towards will also take you to an- Greater Flamingos, which can be usually other entrance to the saltworks, but this seen along the straight road behind the one is always locked. From this point first big lake in front of you. Sometimes, though, you get a good view towards the especially in winter, you can find them on saltworks so you can scan the area with the first lake as well. It’s worth noting that binoculars. Avocets, Black-winged Stilts Greater Flamingos have repeatedly tried and Black-tailed Godwits along with terns to breed here. Now go back towards the and waders are always moving or flying gate keeping an eye on the flat fields (4) from one salt pan to another. At the south to your left, where you might see Stone salt pans of the saltworks and on the low Curlews. Before exiting the saltworks you dykes separating them, Dalmatian Pelicans will see the water evaporation ponds, and Spoonbills usually perch, while during the salt pans. If the colour of the water is migration there are many Stone Curlews. pink, just keep going. It means that the From here you can also view the canal that salt concentration is forbidding for any liv- surrounds the saltworks. The Penduline ing organism, except for the Brine Shrimp Tit crafts its fine nest in this area, the Shel- Artemia salina. But if the water has its duck hides its young in the vegetation of normal colour then you will see sandpip- the canal, while the Kingfisher lurks at the ers and stints. Redshanks and Little Stints waterside branches. In spring, the Night- are among the most common species of ingale sings inside dense vegetation in the saltworks. If the salt pans are dry, then order to demarcate its territory. The local you will definitely see the Kentish Plover Cetti’s Warblers sound incredibly out of around the edges, while Common Terns tune next to it. and Little Terns might have nested at a quiet corner. Exiting the saltworks, if you Driving towards the turn which will take follow the same road from which you ac- you to the National Road, you will see big cessed the area, but this time towards the livestock pens on your left; behind them 68 opposite direction, you will see a small you can look for Collared Pratincoles, Ca- ME TO I T V Spring is definitely the most productive season for Alyki Kitrous. T I S

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E Agathoupoli is very interesting in winter, as waterfowl numbers are high. B landra Larks and Greater Short-toed Larks. feast for raptors that often visit the area as This is the place for the birdwatchers look- well; the White-tailed Eagle is a frequent ing for rarities. The Black-winged Pratincole visitor. Harriers, Great Spotted Eagles and would not come as a surprise if it appeared even the Golden Eagle have been sighted among the tens of Collared Pratincoles. A here in cold, snowy days. Smaller birds of large dirt road that leads to the sea, cross- prey also visit the area: the Peregrine Fal- es an area with dense bushes, one of the con and the Merlin in winter, while the richest areas in Greece as far as reptiles are Red-footed Falcon and the Levant Spar- concerned, especially tortoises. It is better rowhawk are frequently seen during mi- to leave your car here and take a walk in gration. The Hobby is a summer visitor. order to avoid running over them. Next Many small passerines will also be around to you, the dense bushes host Woodchat you, including the Reed Warbler, the Shrikes, Red-backed Shrikes and Lesser Marsh Warbler and the rare Moustached Grey Shrikes, very close to each other. Af- Warbler, while Agathoupoli has many sur- ter the area with the dense bushes and at prises during migration. The southern part your left, at the most natural part of Kitros of river Aliakmonas delta can be reached lagoon you will see large populations of from here and from the junction at Aigi- waders, depending on the season, such as neio. But it’s better to go for the northern (Red) Knots, Sanderlings, Curlew Sandpip- part of the delta, because the access is ers and Little Stints, as well as Black-tailed easier and the road runs parallel to this re- Godwits, Grey Plovers and Golden Plovers. ally beautiful river! At the end of the dirt road, after having passed a small lighthouse, you will reach the sea. In winter this is a good spot for Other interesting fauna/flora watching Yelkouan Shearwaters as flocks Kitros is one of the richest areas in Europe of more than 800 birds have been record- for reptiles. They can be seen very eas- ed. ily, especially the tortoises. The extensive Glasswort flats are home to the European Driving north along the National Road Ground Squirrel. The White-tailed Eagle is you will find road signs towards Nea Ag- using the coastline of these areas to catch athoupoli. You should not miss this exit, fish. A thorough scanning of the area with especially in winter! Alternatively, you binoculars of a field scope can reward you can reach Agathoupoli from Alyki Kitrous, with great views of the spectacular fishing following a mostly coastal road, a really dives of this impressive raptor. beautiful drive crossing Makrygyalos and Methoni. The lagoon of Agathoupoli, with an excellent elevated stone-made obser- vation hide (5), is teeming with ducks, herons and waders in winter. In fact, this is the southern part of the delta of Aliak- monas. Numerous Mallards, Shovelers, Teals, Pintails, Wigeons, Gadwalls, Cur- lews, Whimbrels and hundreds of waders are spread all over the area waiting to be identified by birdwatchers. The place is a 69 Lakes Volvi and Koroneia Rentina Gorge A few kilometres east of Thessaloniki, on the way to the city of Kavala, you can see from the National Road two large freshwater lakes: Koroneia and Volvi. These lakes are the natural border between the peninsula of Chalkidiki and the rest of Greece, covering the deepest areas of basin. This area is defi ned by the towns of Lagkadas to the west and Rentina gorge (also known as Makedonika Tempi) to the east.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000, a National Park and a Ramsar Site. It is also an

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70 garrulus Roller Coracias 71 Highlight Species

Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Dalmatian Pelican • Great White Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • White-tailed Eagle • Long-legged Buzzard • Levant Sparrowhawk • Greater Flamingo • Ferruginous Duck • Roller • Eagle Owl • Nightjar • E O G T T T H

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72 Cormorant Pygmy Pelecanus onocrotalus Pelecanus Great White Pelican Pelican White Great

GET O T The lake complex is 550 km north of Athens and only 45 km east of Thes- T H

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OUTE R covers 68 km2 and tors evoke images from the past: Greater its maximum depth is 20 m. Flamingos are frequent visitors, while the Lake Koroneia covers 46 km2. White-tailed Eagle is also a regular sight, In August 2002 it was almost completely along with Great White Pelicans, a few drained, but water levels recovered thanks Dalmatian Pelicans, Great Cormorants to heavy rainfalls during the following and Pygmy Cormorants. Herons, even less winter, so nowadays its maximum depth common species like the Night Heron, are reaches 1.5 m. still breeding. The Ruddy Shelduck is also an irregular breeder. Large populations of Lake Volvi, the easternmost of the two, is grebes and ducks, including White-head- the second largest natural lake of the coun- ed Ducks, overwinter. try. The area between the two lakes, which are connected when water levels are high, Herons, ducks and grebes frequent the used to be a marsh hosting thousands of southwest part of Koroneia (1) and they birds. Something like an ornithological can be easily seen from the National Road. paradise made of mud! Unfortunately, the The best part of Koroneia, however, is the marsh was turned into cultivated land and southeast area near Vasiloudi (2). In spring, most of the birds - along with other wild- at the dirt road leading to this part of the life - have abandoned the area… Add to lake you can find many warblers, and enjoy that the pollution of the water table and the song of the Nightingale and the Cetti’s you will realize the extent of the damage Warbler. At that same period, visiting the caused. But still, nature resists here as well! eastern part of the lake may offer you the Around the lakes there are reedbeds and opportunity to enjoy many plovers, sand- mudflats inviting birds to feed, rest and pipers and stints, as well as all three spe- nest. Nowadays, the area’s wildlife visi- cies of “marsh terns”. The northwest part 73 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Haliaeetus albicilla White-tailed Eagle of Koroneia is equally productive. In the Richios, which flows along the Rentina reedbeds, in April and May you can listen gorge. Many ducks overwinter here, the to - but also see if you are patient enough most significant of which being the- Fer - the Sedge Warbler, the Reed Warbler, the ruginous Duck. In winter, several ducks Great Reed Warbler and the Cetti’s War- are sighted, including Tufted Ducks and bler. This reedbed also holds Penduline Goldeneyes, while Scaups, White-headed Tits, Little Bitterns and Water Rails. On the Ducks and Long-tailed Ducks are among hills south of Koroneia (3) the Black Kite the most interesting visitors. The Smew and the Long-legged Buzzard have also is also frequent. In harsh winters the lake been observed, along with more common also hosts swans, among which the Tun- raptors such as the Common Buzzard and dra Swan, and many rare gulls in Greece, the Kestrel. like the Mew Gull. Pelicans and storks are also common. In the forest of Apollonia (4), next to Lake Volvi, the Eagle Owl is quite common al- Rentina gorge (5) is located between Lake beit not easy to see, as it’s used to hiding Volvi and Strymonikos bay. It is a rocky quite well due to the frequent human area with cliffs and tall, dense vegetation - presence at the premises. The Levant Spar- an ideal place for birds of prey. It hosts the rowhawk most probably nests as well. The Short-toed Eagle, the Booted Eagle and species that definitely nest in Apollonia the Eagle Owl. It is also the place to go if forest are the Grey Heron and the White you are eager to see the Nightjar. Between Stork, this being a rare example of coexis- the two lakes, at the village of Scholari, tence in Greece. there are two huge, centuries-old Oriental Planes (Platanus orientalis) that have been Lake Volvi is a large, deep lake, connected declared Natural Monuments and many 74 to Strymonikos bay by a small river named birds of the area nest on their branches. ME TO Spring is by far the most interesting period with as many migrants join I T V T I S resident species. Winter is also very interesting, because of the presence

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E B of large numbers of waterfowl. Ixobrychus minutus Ixobrychus Little Bittern Other interesting fauna/fl ora Thirty four species of mammals have been recorded in and around the lakes, the most signifi cant of which are the Otter, EXTRAS the Golden Jackal, the and the Eu- ropean Ground Squirrel. Among the common wintering ducks, rare species like the White- headed Duck, the Long-tailed Duck and the Smew, seem to prefer this area as they have been sighted frequently. 75 Voras, Tzena and Pinovo mountains Mount Voras (also known as Kaïmaktsalan) is located in central Macedonia, next to the border with FYROM. It is an extensive mountain range, approximately 50 km long, and one of the highest in Greece with an altitude of 2,524 m (Kaï- maktsalan peak). Mount Tzena and Mount Pinovo lie east of Voras, being much easier to access. These three mountains are of great ornithological importance.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site. Part of the area is a Wildlife Refuge. Two Im-

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76 rufinus Buteo Buzzard Long-legged 77 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Golden Eagle • Imperial Eagle • (non breeding) Short-toed Eagle • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Booted Eagle • Lanner Falcon • Saker Falcon • Long-legged Buzzard • Hazel Grouse • White-backed Woodpecker • Black Woodpecker • GE Grey-headed Woodpecker O T T • T H

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O • E Snowfinch • H Dipper • Rock Thrush • Cinclus cinclus

78 Dipper Eremophila alpestris Eremophila Horned Lark

GET O T This area is located in the far north of Greece, and the closest city is Edes- T H

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H are also many towns and villages at the foot of the mountain, Aridaia be- ing the largest. A good place to stay is Loutra Loutrakiou village, being 13 km from Aridaia or 25 km from Edessa and located very close to Voras. Another suitable place is Agios Athanasios village in the southwest slopes of Voras.

OUTE R Mount Voras is a mountain thermal springs, the warm water of which covered with mixed forest of is equally enjoyed by bathers as well as beech, conifers, Sweet Chest- by the Dipper. If you set off early before nuts and oaks. There are also many ravines, dawn, and follow the path with the wa- valleys and pastures. It is renowned for its ter to your left, it is highly likely that you birdlife, which includes forest and alpine will find the Tawny Owl and later on in the species. The Lammergeier, which used to day one of the nine woodpecker species visit the area until recently, is probably one of the area, such as the Black Woodpecker. of the most important species along with A walk around the forest, may yield Marsh the Egyptian Vulture, two vultures which, Tits and even Willow Tits, despite the low like all scavengers, face serious problems altitude. and their populations have dramatically declined. An interesting route is the one leading to the ski resort of Kaïmaktsalan. The villages Loutra Loutrakiou (1) is located 40 km of Panagitsa and Neos Agios Athanasios from Edessa. It is a village obviously built are very beautiful, and it is worth making a hastily and without special attention paid deviation towards the tiny village of Palios to its aesthetics even though it is located Agios Athanasios, which is also very beau- on an astonishingly beautiful place at the tiful and is only 17 km away from the ski foot of mount Voras. At the opening of resort. On your way there, in late autumn the ravine, a small river named Toplitsas or winter, you will certainly find buntings, is flowing, forming small waterfalls and even the Redwing, and just before the ski 79 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Turdus pilaris Turdus Fieldfare Fieldfare resort you can hear the distinctive call of sible mountains than Voras and they are the Raven. In winter, around the ski resort ideal for woodpeckers in spring. Beech, you will probably see the Horned Lark, oak and sparse Sweat Chestnut forest is while searching the horizon might reward ideal habitat for Grey-headed Woodpeck- you with good views of a Golden Eagle in ers, Black Woodpeckers and White-backed flight. In spring, it is quite possible to see Woodpeckers. The wooded slopes are the Rock Thrush, and you will definitely home to the Hazel Grouse while on the come across the Water Pipit. The area alpine grasslands, as well as on the ones around the ski resort has many vantage on Voras, Rock Partridge is still common. points for watching Griffon Vultures. For birdwatchers looking for Greek rarities, the bare peaks are very good for Snow- From old Loutraki you can reach the re- finches, but only in summer, because the nowned plateaux of Dobro Pole (2), which species overwinters in lower altitudes - the is located exactly on the Greek border- peaks are inaccessible anyway because of line. Here you can see the largest bogs in the heavy snowfall. Greece and many of the rare plant that The richness in birds of prey is one of the grow in Kaïmaktsalan. Every spring, fer- reasons birdwatchers visit this area. At the vent birdwatchers scan - so far in vain - waterfalls of Notia you will certainly find these bogs hoping to find the Dotterel , the Long-legged Buzzard, while the big while others, who are a bit more... down gorge of Voreino is a good place for the to earth, search in late summer the same Golden Eagle and the Peregrine Falcon. plateau for non-breeding Lesser Kestrels, Here you will also see Black Storks as they or for rare passage raptors like the Saker nest in the steep slopes. Close to Thiriope- Falcon and the Montagu’s Harrier. tra you can also find, with a bit of luck, the rare Imperial Eagle, but you will definitely East of mount Voras there are two equally see the Lesser Spotted Eagle. interesting mountains: Tzena and Pinovo. At the gorge of Ai Giannis (3), located be- You can access Tzena from the villages of tween Voreino and Thiriopetra, there is a Notia and Perikleia, while in order to go to feeding table for Egyptian Vultures and Pinovo you need to cross Voreino, Thirio- other birds of prey. For all the above rea- petra or Aetochori villages. If you go to Ae- sons, this area is certainly of high interest tochori you can also find the trekking path for raptor fans. Eagle Owl is also known to towards the alpine zone. breed here. 80 Tzena and Pinovo seem to be more acces- Finally, every winter, the plain of Aridaia ME TO Spring is defi nitely the best season for birds. Winter is also interesting, I T V T I S mainly for birds of prey and small passerines, but access is limited due to

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E B snowfall. Ciconia nigra Ciconia Black Stork is full of songbirds, while the Hen Harrier and the Merlin are regular winter visitors.

Other interesting fauna/fl ora EXTRAS The mountain is renowned for its fl ora, A single Lammergeier was seen with more than 1,400 recorded spe- in the area a few years ago. cies, some of which are extremely rare in Its reappearance would be, Greece. It is also renowned for its mam- apart from a very nice sighting, mals, most signifi cant of which is the Wolf and the Otter. a unique and very important event.

81 Lake Agras Lakes Vegoritida & Petron Lakes Cheimaditida & Zazari Lake Agras is located next to the National Road connecting the city of Edessa with , just a few kilometres north- west of Edessa, at an altitude of 480 m. This is an artifi cial lake created when the natural wetland of Edessaios marshes fl ooded because of the construction of a dam by the Public Power Corporation in 1950, for the needs of the hydroelectric power station. The lake depends on the water of river Edessaios, but the river’s water fl ow is much less nowadays. There are also springs next to the village of Vrytta which, in combination with Nisi, make the area more picturesque.

West of Lake Agras lies a large plain embellished with four lakes: Vegoritida, Petron, Chei- maditida and Zazari. Vegoritida is the largest, with a maximum depth of more than 50 m. A narrow canal connects Vegoritida with lake Petron. Cheimaditida and Zazari lakes are located southwest of Petron. Cheimaditida is covered to a great extend with reeds, while Zazari is one of the most picturesque lakes in Greece, despite its small size.

TION C ST E A This extensive area includes NATURA 2000 sites, three Important Bird Ar-

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82 nebularia Tringa Greenshank 83 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Lanner Falcon • Montagu’s Harrier • Lesser Kestrel • Golden Eagle • Long-legged Buzzard • Dalmatian Pelican • Ferruginous Duck • Syrian Woodpecker • Roller • Blue Rock Thrush • Rock Nuthatch • E O G T T T H

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84 Buzzard Long-legged pygargus Circus Circus Montagu’s Harrier Montagu’s

GET O T This area is situated at the north-northwest of Greece. The town of Amyn- T H

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H 140 km west of Thessaloniki. Daily flights connect Athens with Kastoria (65 km southwest of ) and (55 km south of Amyntaio).

OUTE R You can start your birdwatch- ing site when travelling from Prespa to ing tour as soon as you see the the wetlands of northern Greece, as well lake. There is an Information as dozens of grebes. Upon arriving at the Centre (1) for the wetland at the junction village of Vrytta (2), you can turn right to- of the National Road with a country road wards the wetland and, through a short leading to Kerasia. Just behind it, at the ca- and beautiful route, reach the central ca- nal formed by the reed-covered bank, rare nal which is all green in spring. You will birds can be seen and photographed. Birds certainly find many passerines here, and are not wary and are used to human pres- possibly a small group of Long-tailed Tits ence here, allowing you to watch them performing acrobatics from one branch closely. Ferruginous Ducks, Mute Swans, to another. Golden Orioles use the upper Little Bitterns and, occasionally, Red-crest- branches of poplars to build their nests ed Pochards can be viewed at a distance of and Syrian Woodpeckers use the soft only 10 m. Large populations of Coots visit wood of their trunk to make their own. the lake and they will definitely be one of the first species you will spot. Close to the springs of river Edessaios is another vantage point with good views. After 3 kilometers from the Information In spring you will possibly see Whiskered Centre, towards Vrytta, you will come Terns or less common Black Terns picking across an excellent vantage point. From insects from the surface of the water. here you can spot Cormorants, Pochards, Tufted Ducks but also Mallards, always Moving on around the lake, heading to- moving to the centre of the lake in win- wards the rail tracks, you will reach Nisi ter. You are highly likely to see Dalmatian (3). On the cherry trees, in winter, look for Pelicans since they use the lake as a rest- Hawfinches that love cherries and break 85 their pits with their strong bills. During thyofauna as well as that it never freezes ME TO I T V T I the same season there are many Com- in winter, not even during the really cold S

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E mon Buzzards in the area, while further up months, make it a remarkable birdwatch- B above the hills a Golden Eagle may appear ing area. At its southern part, waders and from time to time. The area also lies in a ducks are commonly observed in winter, migration route. So if you are around in including the Red-crested Pochard. The spring or autumn, you can observe many deeper areas of the lake host many Dal- more species, including rare ones. matian Pelicans, Tufted Ducks and grebes, as well as many Coots. Its west side, with Vegoritida is the largest lake of the area the rocky shores, is the ideal place for and it is shared by the Prefectures of Flori- birds of prey. The Lanner Falcon nests in na and . It is quite deep (its maximum the area, which is one of the best places depth is more than 50 m), and it receives in Greece to look for it. Common Buzzards, water from all the other nearby lakes. It is Long-legged Buzzards, Short-toed Eagles located next to the village of Agios Pan- as well as the Golden Eagle –whenever it teleimonas. Starting from the church of chooses to make an appearance– are also Agios Panteleimonas (4) you can follow found here. In spring and summer, at the the country road towards Vegora, with reedbeds around the lake you will spot the Lake Vegoritida on your left. In spring, at Little Bittern and the Marsh Harrier, while the waterfalls you will be able to watch in the fields you are highly likely to see the closely and photograph feeding Dalma- Montagu’s Harrier which nests in the sur- tian Pelicans. As the overflow canal brings rounding area. The Pygmy Cormorant is water from Lake Petron, it also brings also breeding, which means that you can loads of fish, making it an easy fishing spot see it in the lake all year round. for the Dalmatian Pelicans. Moving along the country road you can see grebes and Lake Vegoritida is connected with Lake Coots from a very close distance. In sum- Petron by a narrow canal. Lake Petron is mer you will also have the opportunity to a relatively small lake located 1 km north- spot Squacco Herons and Little Bitterns. At west of the town of Amyntaio and is a the old pump station of the Public Power nesting site of the Ferruginous Duck. The Corporation of Greece (5) you will find reedbeds on the northeast side (7) are the Penduline Tit that has crafted its nest an ideal place for this bird as well as for on the willow trees. To your right towards herons. At the wet meadows north of the the rocks, look for Blue Rock Thrushes and wastewater treatment plant you will find a Rock Nuthatches. Moving towards the colony of herons and Pygmy Cormorants. edge of the lake, follow the road leading The surrounding hills are good vantage to the stream of Solos. In spring, Glossy points, and you can scan the surface of Ibises are feeding at the wet meadows. the water with a field scope from there. You can access the lake from the village of From this side of the lake you can also see Petres (8). Snipes, ducks and many species of stints and sandpipers. Marsh Harriers are fre- Cheimaditida and Zazari are two separate quently seen flying above the reedbeds. lakes but they are treated as one because Continuing your way towards Vegora you they form a single area. They are sepa- might as well spot the Long-legged Buz- rated by a narrow strip of land, and are zard and there is an abandoned sand ex- surrounded by dense reedbeds used for traction site; you will find a colony of Bee- nesting or resting by many birds. The sur- eaters in summer (6). rounding roads turn into mudflats when it rains so driving there requires a 4x4 vehi- 86 The fact that the lake hosts a rich ich- cle. Zazari, one of Greece’s most beautiful ME TO There is no doubt that winter and spring are the best seasons to visit the I T V T I S area.

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E B lakes, is small (approximately 2 km2) and Other interesting fauna/fl ora river Sklithros fl ows into it. A small village Otters, introduced Coypus and, in winter, named Limnochori is located next to it Wolves, are the most interesting mammals and this is where you can access the lake in Lake Agras. The ichthyofauna is rather from. The Ferruginous Duck is a common poor, but the existence of the Noble Cray- sight in the lake, while in winter you can fi sh Αstacus astacus makes it special. also see more ducks, like the Scaup. At the west side of the lake you will be impressed In Lake Vegoritida, the Otter and the Eu- by the boldness of the Jackdaws, which ropean Ground Squirrel are the most in- instead of being scared by your presence, teresting species, with the former being they will approach you for a close inspec- more easily seen in Lake Petron. tion! Lakes Cheimaditida and Zazari hold good Lake Cheimaditida has extensive marshes populations of the Red , seen even in with reedbeds and a small open expanse broad daylight, and the chances are that of water. It is located south of Zazari and you might as well be able to observe the after the drainage works it was converted Wildcat. Otter is much more diffi cult to into a huge reedbed. The best way to ac- see. The area around the lakes is great cess it is from the east, from the village of for insects and butterfl ies in spring, and Anargyroi. Many warblers can be observed for Grass Snakes and terrapins in shallow in the reedbeds, but they need your close waters. The fl ora of the area includes more attention because they are not easily iden- than 150 species. tifi ed, while the small open expanse of water attracts herons, Coots and ducks, in winter. Ferruginous Ducks are also seen in the lake. The cultivations surrounding the two lakes (9) host the Lesser Kestrel and the Montagu’s Harrier. EXTRAS At the southern part of Agras you will fi nd , a small stone-built chapel surrounded by trees. There is a pathway starting just before the chapel, which is exceptionally beautiful and well vegetated, that will take you to a wooden observation hide. Birdwatchers can spend hours of relaxing birdwatching there! You can also visit the impressive waterfalls of Edessa, the highest of which (“Karanos”) is almost 70 m. 87 Prespa lakes and Varnountas mountains Prespa National Park is located at the northwest part of the Prefecture of Florina. It covers 330 km2 and includes parts of the lakes of Mikri Prespa and Megali Prespa. Almost 90% of the area of Mikri Prespa belongs to Greece,and the rest to Albania, while Megali Prespa is shared by Greece, Albania and FYROM.

TION C ST This is a NATURA 2000 site, and an Important Bird Area (GR047). Both lakes E A

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88 nisoria Sylvia Warbler Barred 89 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Greylag Goose • Dalmatian Pelican • Great White Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Ferruginous Duck • Goosander • Hazel Grouse • Golden Eagle • Red-footed Falcon • Barred Warbler •

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90 Goosander pertinus Falco ves Falco Red-footed Falcon Falcon Red-footed

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OUTE R Megali Prespa is the deepest more experienced birdwatchers, however, of the two (maximum depth will be fascinated by the Greylag Goose, 55 m) covering an area of ap- the Goosander - for which this is its south- proximately 270 km2, only 38 of which ernmost distribution limit in Europe -, the are in Greece. From the surface of Mikri Hazel Grouse, the White-backed Wood- Prespa, Greece possesses 43 out of its 48 pecker and the Golden Eagle in montane km2. Its maximum depth is slightly less areas and by migrants like the Lesser Kes- than 8 m. The two lakes are separated by trel, the Barred Warbler, the Glossy Ibis a thin strip of land and are connected with and the Purple Heron. More than 260 bird a small canal at the location of Koula. The species have been recorded in the area Prespa National Park is situated at a high and at least 80 of them are regular breed- altitude, with its lowest part (the lakes) ers. Among them there are many rare and approximately at 840 m and its highest at globally threatened species. 2,292 m. The main attraction for birdwatchers at From an ornithological point of view, both Mikri Prespa is the mixed breeding colony the lakes and the surrounding area host of Dalmatian Pelicans and Great White many important species, among which the Pelicans. The population and distribution two landmark pelican species of the area: of both species have now increased so the the Dalmatian Pelican and the Great White colony is divided in two parts: the colony Pelican that coexist and breed in the lakes, of Vromolimni (an inland lake at the north along with the Pygmy Cormorant. The part of Mikri Prespa) and the colony of Kri- 91 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Pelecanus crispus Pelecanus Dalmatian Pelican Pelican Dalmatian na (north of Agios Achilleios), so from late of Krina from the hill just before Agios February to the end of June birdwatchers Achilleios (4). Your observation from this will be rewarded with excellent views. You hill might reward you with views of the can observe Vromolimni from a spot on herons’ nests - mainly of Great Egrets and the road leading to the village of Psarades Grey Herons - and you will definitely enjoy (1). In winter, from this spot you can view observing pelicans, Pygmy Cormorants thousands of ducks and grebes overwin- and Great Cormorants in low flights. You tering on the beach of Megali Prespa, in- might as well catch a glimpse of other her- cluding Goosanders and Greylag Geese. ons, such as Little Bitterns, Squacco Her- ons and Purple Herons hiding at the edge Further up, at the highest point of the road of the reedbeds. Enjoy the view listening to Psarades, you will see the chapel of Ag- to the loud voice of the Great Reed War- Georgios in a stand of perennial juni- bler, the call of the Bearded Reedling and pers (Juniperus foetidissima and Juniperus the song of the Cetti’s Warblers from the excelsa) unique in Europe. The trees have surrounding reedbeds. been protected for hundreds of years, as this is considered to be a sacred site and If you go to the hill of Krina for observa- there has always been the fear of punish- tion, grab the opportunity to visit the is- ment by the Saint (2). At the right side of let of Agios Achilleios (5). When walking the chapel there is a dirt road that you along the bridge, you will see Great Crest- can follow on foot, enjoying the flowers ed Grebes and Pygmy Cormorants as well in spring and hoping that you will find the as many other waterfowl in flight almost Sombre Tit. all year round. This road will take you to a small meadow On the island, follow the path towards the with an excellent view to Mikri Prespa and church of Agios Achilleios and then follow Agios Achilleios, from where you can get the sign towards the monastery of Panag- an idea of how the colonies of the pelicans ia Porfyra. spread across the reedbeds of the lake In an early spring morning, you will be (3). amazed by the number of Nightingales 92 You can get a clear view of the colonies and other singing passerines. ME TO I T V Spring is defi nitely the best season to visit the area, nevertheless the win- T I S

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If you are interested in passerines, in nation with cultural elements such as the spring you can walk along a really nice picturesque villages, the small island of path which starts from the village of Agios Agios Achilleios with archaeological fi nd- Germanos and heads down towards the ings from the archaic and Byzantine eras, village of Laimos, crossing the river valley as well as the rich biodiversity of the lakes (6). In Agios Germanos, follow the road make the area irresistible! between the Police Station and the church of Agios Germanos (built in the 11th cen- tury) and continue on the dirt road. Pass Other interesting fauna/fl ora the old watermills on your right and cross Prespa lakes and the surrounding area host the river where you may see Dippers. quite a few important mammals (Wolves, Brown Bears, Otters, Wildcats), as well as a At the eastern side of Mikri Prespa there variety of amphibians, reptiles and insects. are not many observation points, but from The signifi cant fl ora of the area includes a the hill of Kale (7), in spring, you can see great number of orchid species. There is the management areas with water buff a- also beech woodland and a riparian Silver los along with the species that feed in wet Birch forest. meadows (Pygmy Cormorants, Dalmatian Pelicans and Glossy Ibises). Keep walking on the road outside the village of Oxya and you will possibly come across Bee- eaters and Lesser Grey Shrikes, while in EXTRAS summer it is worth stopping outside Oxya to admire the small grasslands with daff o- The combination of natural and cul- dils. Alternatively, you can follow the dirt tural attractions, like the picturesque road from Oxya which leads to the moun- villages, the islet of Agios Achilleios tain. It crosses the forest and off ers excel- with interesting archaeological fi nd- lent views of Mikri Prespa, and ends at the ings of the Classical and Byzantine abandoned village of Sfi ka. Along the way era, along with the rich biodiversity, you will hopefully have the opportunity to see or at least hear the Hazel Grouse, in make this area irresistibly charming. one of its few breeding grounds in Greece (8). The Prespa area is ideal for trekking and mountaineering, while the va- The beautiful scenery, which becomes riety of habitats will off er you many enchanting during winter, has turned paths to follow - each one with a dif- the area into a very popular destination ferent theme. There are alpine grass- among travellers. Even when ecotourism lands, many diff erent types of wood- was not yet “in fashion” in Greece, many land, including beech, oak and mixed Greeks visited the lakes in winter even for a weekend - the area is splendid when it forests, Common Box shrubland, snows, you can fall in love with it! The scen- the lake and its habitats, while the ery is captivating with the water being sur- cultivated zone and the villages are rounded by the mountains of Varnountas equally interesting. and Triklario. Its natural beauty, in combi- 93 Lake Kastoria Kastoria is situated in NW Greece and built in the banks of a large freshwater lake. This lake is considered to be a wetland of great importance for breeding, wintering and migratory species.

TION C ST E A This is a Natura 2000 site, a Widlife Refuge and an Important Bird Area

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94 nycticorax Nycticorax Night Heron 95 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Mute Swan • Ferruginous Duck • Goosander • Night Heron • Bittern • Dalmatian Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Great Grey Shrike •

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96 Grebes Crested Great Phalacrocorax pygmeus Phalacrocorax Pygmy Cormorants Cormorants Pygmy

GET O T Kastoria is 560 km northwest of Athens and 220 km west of Thessalon- T H

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H to take the National Road for Lamia, then head to and . From Thessaloniki, you have to take the road to Kozani. The use of Egna- tia Avenue is highly recommended as it faster and much safer. You can also travel by airplane, as there are daily flights from Athens to Kastoria Airport “Aristotelis” in Argos Orestiko (12 km from the city of Kastoria).

OUTE R At an altitude of 600 m above found at the east and northeast. Reedbeds, sea level, the town of Kastoria shrubland and cultivated areas around the owes its exceptional beauty lake, contribute to its rich birdlife. mainly to the lake, to the west of which it is built amphitheatrically. Especially in More than 220 bird species have been ob- winter, the image is stunning. When the served at the lake of Kastoria, almost half lake freezes, the sight of wild birds walk- of which breed here. The Great Crested ing on ice is enchanting! Grebes sustain their largest breeding pop- ulation in the country and you can eas- The maximum depth of the lake is 9 m ily see them courting in spring or feeding while its average depth is 4.5 m. Several their young later in the year, only a couple torrents flow into its surface water and an- of metres away from you! A sight you can other torrent eventually feeds the water of enjoy either by taking a walk around the the lake into river Aliakmonas. It has been lake or even by sitting at one of the many designated as an IBA due to the presence cafeterias next to the lake and enjoying of some rare and threatened species such your coffee. as the Dalmatian Pelican, the Pygmy Cor- morant and the Ferruginous Duck. The The lake is also one of the three known Pygmy Cormorant and the Ferruginous nesting sites in Greece for the Mute Swan. Duck are breeding in the lake. In honour of the birds that nest along the A riparian forest can be found at the north- lakeside road, this avenue is named Swan west side of the lake and wet meadows are Avenue! 97 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Mergus serrator Mergus Red-breasted Merganser Merganser Red-breasted The birdwatcher has the opportunity to everywhere! The Great Egrets and Bitterns watch from a really close distance (and we overwinter here as well. As the birds are mean it!) the usually distrustful Mallards, accustomed to human presence, you can Pochards and Coots. Bird photographers easily watch them or take pictures from a will definitely need a wide angle lens if short distance. they want to capture the atmosphere and the birds, while those carrying only a Along the lakeshore, in spring, you can zoom lens will certainly regret it. Especially find breeding Coots, Moorhens and Little at the site where Pygmy Cormorants roost Grebes, as if you were watching a docu- for the night - often along with Jackdaws mentary! In summer, you will be watch- - and with the beautiful city in the back- ing Water Rails looking for food and Little ground… The roosting site is at the centre Bitterns and Squacco Herons feeding on of the city, approximately 50 m from the newts. shore, close to the building of the Prefec- tural Administration of Kastoria. Ferruginous Ducks, a permanent target species of birdwatchers, can be spotted on At the riparian forest northwest of the lake the lakeside village of Dispilio (2). There (1) there is a mixed colony of herons, Great are wet meadows that flood with waders Cormorants and Pygmy Cormorants. You in spring and reedbeds at which this rare can easily enjoy (always from a safe dis- duck often appears. tance so that you don’t disturb the birds) Little Egrets, Night Herons and Grey Her- There are many beautiful routes and sites ons in flight, on their way from and to the in or around the town (3) that combine nests. hiking, recreation and birdwatching. In the town, next to the lake, there are many The lake is known to birdwatchers as one cafeterias with outdoor seating (if it is not of the two most reliable sites in the coun- cold) just after the central parking lot. try for wintering Goosanders. A few indi- At the parking lot there is an automatic viduals overwinter at the northeast edge vending machine where you can buy of the lake every winter, taking advantage food for Mute Swans, Coots, gulls, even for of the abundant and easy food. Usually, Pochards that can be, literally, hand-fed! it is easy to spot five to ten individuals in At Mavriotissa (4), where you will find tra- winter. Being much more common, Dal- ditional coffee shops, a tavern and an old matian Pelicans, Great Cormorants and Byzantine church, depending on the sea- 98 Pygmy Cormorants can be seen virtually son you can look for wintering Goosand- ME TO I T V Spring off ers a great variety of breeders. In winter, most of the birds can T I S

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E be seen at very close distance. B Cygnus olor Cygnus Swans Mute ers, Pygmy Cormorants, grebes, resident Other interesting fauna/fl ora Syrian Woodpeckers and migrant warblers. Otters are still common in the lake. There To the north side of the town, at Psaradika, are also many smaller mammals, amphib- there is a tavern-coff ee shop by the lake. ians and reptiles. Regardless of whether you are sitting in- side or outside, it is an ideal place as birds that in other wetlands you could only view through binoculars or a telescope will be right next to you, while you are eating or drinking. Another highlight here - apart TIPS from Pygmy Cormorants, grebes etc. - There are two boats that can take are the Night Herons constantly moving you on a tour at the lake. back and forth from their colony. There One of these boats departs from the is a good chance to spot the Otter or the town of Kastoria and the other one Osprey during migration. There are also interesting routes around the villages of from nearby Mavrochori. Mavrochori and Polykarpi, as well as along They both tour around the lake, Xiropotamos. off ering you the opportunity to enjoy the exquisite scenery while sailing. At the plain northeast of the lake (5) you The town of Kastoria is a good can look for Montagu’s Harriers or, in win- starting point for excursions ter, for the Great Grey Shrike. The surround- (less than an hour away) to Prespa ing mountains still hold Golden Eagles. lakes, Nymfaio, lake Cheimaditida, Mt Grammos, Grevena, etc. 99 Tymfi and Smolikas mountains Mount Tymfi , or Gkamila (the summit with a height of 2,497 m) is a magnifi cent mountain, most probably because it is not accessible by car. Mountain peaks, steep slopes, screes, small glaciers, mountain lakes and alpine grasslands are words that if you don’t already know, you will defi nitely learn when you visit the area. Mikro Papigko, one of the most well-known villages of Zagorochoria, is built on the slopes of Tymfi , beneath the peak of Astraka. From here, there is a path that will take you to the ridge of the mountain. Mount Smolikas, the other mountain of the area, is located to the northeast of Tymfi and is also very well known due to its enormous conical shape as well as to its highest peak (2,637 m), which is the second highest in Greece after Olympos.

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100 Oenanthe hispanica Wheatear Black-eared 101 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Golden Eagle • Black Stork • Wallcreeper • Snowfinch • Alpine Accentor • Horned Lark • White-backed Woodpecker • Chough • Alpine Chough • Sombre Tit •

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102 Tit Sombre Falco peregrinus Falco Peregrine Falcon Falcon Peregrine

GET O T These mountains are found in northwest Greece, 480 km from Athens and T H

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OUTE R The hiking path towards Tymfi of Aoos, there is a lake which is famous for starts from the village of Mikro its beauty, called Drakolimni (Dragon’s lake Papigko. At the pass of Astraka in Greek). At Drakolimni (2) there is often you will find a mountain refuge (1) which snow even in summer and it is the place is usually open, at least in summer. Further where you will definitely see the Alpine up the slopes you will get the chance to Newt. From the vantage points at the op- see the famous mountain tea (Sideritis sp.), posite rocks (3), try to find the Wallcreeper and the saxifrages (Saxifraga sp.), among which sometimes flies like a butterfly at the many plants in the meadows and pas- the steep slopes looking for food at the tures of the area. cracks of the rocks, the Raven, the Black Stork and the Crag Martin. Next to the ref- As for birds, you can find some of the spe- uge you will view the Horned Lark and the cies that occur in high altitudes, such as Alpine Accentor. Having mentioned the Black-eared Wheatears, Wheatears, Wood butterflies, all these mountain slopes are Larks, Blue Rock Thrushes, Rock Thrushes, full of various butterfly species in spring as well as species that are hard to see like and summer, as long as it’s not windy… the Ring Ouzel, the Alpine Chough and the In the montane woodland, among other Chough. While enjoying the view from the woodpeckers you can try for the White- refuge, it is highly likely that you will see backed Woodpecker, and among tits you raptors because the area hosts the Golden will definitely see the Sombre Tit. Eagle, the Peregrine Falcon and the Lanner Falcon, while in spring it hosts the Booted Mount Smolikas is northeast of Tymfi. The Eagle and the Honey Buzzard. The Griffon valleys of Aoos to the south and Saranta- Vulture has also been sighted. to the north separate it from Tymfi At the slopes of Gkamila, above the ravine and Grammos. Its limestone rocks offer 103 Horned alpestris Lark Eremophila suitable substrate for many high altitude breasted Flycatcher has been sighted dur- plants, among which some that are Greek ing the breeding season. This is a diffi cult or Balkan endemics. The Black Pine and the mountain to walk and explore. There are Bosnian Pine, as well as beeches and fi rs paths from the north side (Agia Paraskevi) are the most common trees in the wood- as well as from the south (Pades), but we land. Above 2,000 m there are alpine grass- suggest that you explore the eastern side lands. Here you will most probably fi nd so that you can visit Samarina (5), which the same species as at Tymfi , unless you is highest village in Greece. At Smolikas search the N-NW area (4) where the Red- there is a mountain refuge at 1,750 m.

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Other interesting fauna/fl ora The woodland holds good populations of Roe Deer, Wild Boars, Wolves, Wildcats and Brown Bears. The Otter is common in the rivers, while Chamoix are still found in the EXTRAS alpine zone. Among the amphibians, the The entire area is ideal for trekking, most interesting is the Alpine Newt found mountain biking in the alpine lakes. and of course for nature watching and photography. Do not forget to visit Drakolimni lake. 104 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella 105 Valia Calda (Pindos National Park) The area of Valia Calda (meaning ‘”warm valley” in the Vlach language - even though it’s not at all warm, wet is what it should be called!) is located at the mountain range of Pindos, the backbone of Greece. It is an upland valley of exceptional beauty, surrounded by mountains and traversed by Arkoudorema.

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106 chrysaetosGolden Eagle Aquila 107 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Golden Eagle • White-backed Woodpecker • Black Woodpecker • Black Stork • Grey-headed Woodpecker • Crested Tit • Marsh Tit • Willow Tit •

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108 Woodpecker Spotted Great Picus canus Picus Grey-headed Woodpecker Woodpecker Grey-headed

GET O T Valia Calda belongs to the Prefecture of Grevena, southwest of the city T H

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H through Grevena. From Grevena, you head to Perivoli and then to the lo- cation of Stavros, through a forest road. The same road leads to the core zone. There are also other roads from Metsovo or Grevena that lead to the site. In winter, snowfall renders all roads impassable, even in summer some are accessible only with a 4X4 vehicle. The best way to visit this area is on foot or by mountain bike. You will have more fun and pollute much less! Grevena is 420 km northwest of Athens and 165 southwest of Thes- saloniki.

OUTE R Around the National Park there important for birds of prey. Species such are the villages of Vovousa, Pe- as the Golden Eagle, the Imperial Eagle, rivoli, Krania, Milia, Flampoura- the Griffon Vulture, the Egyptian Vulture, ri, Greveniti and Metsovo, but there are no the Lanner Falcon, the Goshawk and the villages at all inside the Park; if you want Levant Sparrowhawk can be found along to tour the area, you must get your sup- with eight out of ten species of wood- plies from one of these settlements before pecker found in Greece! At the bare peaks entering the Park. The Park is surrounded and alpine grasslands look for Wallcreep- by high peaks, some of which are higher ers, Horned Larks, Alpine Accentors and than 2,000 m, such as , Kakoplevri Snowfinches. The Great Grey Shrike also and Flenga. At low altitudes you will see occurs, in winter. Black Pine and beech forest but above 1,600 m and up to the alpine zone, you A beautiful route you can follow in the will view the Bosnian Pine, a conifer that Park is the path from Vovousa to Flenga can tolerate low temperatures. The Park is or to the Park’s core zone. If you follow the crossed by river Aoos and its tributary Ark- path towards Flenga you will find many oudorema. birds at the crossroad (1), among which Pindos National Park is the nesting site of various tits, including the rare and hard to 70 bird species, while the area is also very see Crested Tit, Willow Tit and Marsh Tit, as 109 well as Goldcrests and Firecrests. Halfway a good pair of binoculars or a fi eld scope between the crossroad and Flenga (2) look you may fi nd the Wallcreeper. for the White-backed Woodpecker and the Bullfi nch. Upland, at the alpine grasslands If you decide to follow the path towards (3), there are good chances for Horned the core zone you will reach Arkoudorema Larks, Alpine Accentors, Rock Partridges (4), where the Dipper is the incontestable and for some of the large raptors. If you star. Don’t be surprised if you observe or scan the rocks carefully and patiently with get a glimpse of the Otter.

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Other interesting fauna/fl ora Bald peaks, rocky slopes and mountain ridges, torrents, mountain lakes and dense Black Pine forests are habitats of many and EXTRAS rare plants and . Valia Calda and the surrounding area of The entire area is ideal Pindos mountain range host some of the for trekking, mountaineering, most remote and naturally preserved re- mountain biking and of course gions of the country. Some of the healthi- for nature photography. est populations of Brown Bears, Wolves, At Aoos you can go kayaking Wild Boars, Roe Deer and Chamois are and rafting. There are ski resorts found here. nearby as well. There are smaller streams all around the area, as well as small lakes, the largest of which are lake Flenga at an altitude of In the alpine zone, there are good 1,950 m (where you can see the Alpine chances to see Wallcreeper, Newt) and lake Lakkos at the mountain Snowfi nch, Alpine Accentor, peak of Avgo, at 1,600 m. Many amphib- Horned Lark and Rock Partridge. ians live in and around the streams of the There are also indications for the area. presence of Tengmalm’s Owl. The Yellow-bellied Toad, the Common Nobody, of course, can guarantee Toad, the Green Toad and the Fire Sala- that you will see it… mander are some of them. The fl ora of the Park is also stunning and includes an endemic species of knapweed Centaurea vlachorum, a species that exists only here and nowhere else in the world! Next to the streams you can also see the Pinquicula hirtifl ora, the only insect-eating plant in Greece.

110 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius 111 Lake Pamvotida and Ioannina city The city of Ioannina is located at northwest Greece and is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities of the country. Lake Pamvotida is certainly one of its greatest assets, as the city is built at the west banks of the lake. It is a natural lake and despite the pressure it faces, it is still teeming with wildlife.

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112 pendulinus Tit Penduline 113 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Ferruginous Duck • Pygmy Cormorant • Lesser Kestrel • Red-footed Falcon • Short-toed Eagle • Penduline Tit •

GET O T Ioannina is 440 km northwest of Athens, or 260 km southwest of Thes- T H

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OUTE R This is a large lake, being fed by A few kilometres north of Amfithea there many small rivers and torrents, is an area called Ligkiades (2). In summer, most of them coming from Mt this is the feeding site of Lesser Kestrels Mitsikeli. Its average depth is small (4.5 and, if you are lucky, you will also see Al- m) and parts of its east side resembles pine Choughs that nest nearby. of a habitat you can’t easily find next to cities. Its waters feed into river Kalamas, At the lake’s famous island (3) - which although the exact outflow point is not you can visit by boat from the pier of Io- visible. There are large reedbeds, hosting annina - there is a circular, riverine road species like the Great Reed Warbler, the with views to the lake. Depending on the Reed Warbler, the Cetti’s Warbler, as well as season, you can see Great Crested Grebes, Little Bitterns, Purple Herons, Little Egrets Little Grebes, Little Bitterns, Water Rails, and the ubiquitous Grey Heron. Pygmy Cormorants and mainly Ferrugi- nous Ducks. At the eastern side of the lake ME TO I T V You can start your birdwatching tour there is a location named Ntourachani (4) T I S

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E around the lake from the north side, from where there is a monastery. From here, B the dyke that connects the small village of apart from the typical lake species you can Perama with the village of Amfithea(1) . In also see the introduced Canada Goose and spring, you can see among the reedbeds Egyptian Goose, hoping that they will not the Ferruginous Duck, a rare and protect- expand their range… Following the circle ed species, as well as Little Bitterns and back to Ioannina, between Longades and Purple Herons. Marsh Harriers are com- Kastritsa at the south-eastern side, there mon sights, while a closer look in the reed- are flooded meadows (5) from winter to bed could reward you with views of Water early spring. Here, in winter, you will find Rails, Great Reed Warblers and Sedge War- Pygmy Cormorants, Great Cormorants, blers, during migration. In summer, Night- Lapwings, as well as migrant Glossy Ibises jars often sit on the dyke at dusk, while in in spring. winter you will certainly find Pygmy Cor- At the end of your birdwatching tour 114 morant at the openings of the reedbeds. around the lake do not forget to take a Podiceps cristatus Podiceps Grebe Crested Great look in the city of Ioannina. Rent a bike riparian habitat with grasslands and open and take a ride along the new cycle track expanses, ideal for birdwatching. The area next to willow trees. Penduline Tits nest is rich in avifauna and that’s why it has on their branches, while taking a look at been suggested that the site becomes an the banks of the lake will reward you with Ornithological Park. beautiful images of egrets, grebes and Pygmy Cormorants. Certain buildings (e.g. the courts of jus- tice) of the city have become nesting sites If you take a walk at the southern part of for Lesser Kestrels, and in the park of Lith- the city, on the new cycle track along the aritsia you can relax while listening to the lakeside route you will reach the Faculty incessant song of the Nightingale. of Agriculture, where there is a beautiful

ME TO I T V T I Spring is the best season to see Lesser Kestrels and all the other breeders. S

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Other interesting fauna/fl ora The lake hosts at least three species of EXTRAS freshwater fi sh, while two of the nine am- phibian species of the area, the Macedo- In late summer, large fl ocks of nian Crested Newt and the Yellow-bellied Lesser Kestrels are gathering in the Toad, are strictly protected. The Epirus fi elds around the lake as they get Water Frog, fi rst recorded in 1984, is quite prepared for the long journey south. common. There are also 24 reptile spe- Up to 3,500 birds can be seen cies. in a single day! 115 Kalamas delta The estuary and the delta of river Kalamas form the most important wetland of northwest Greece. It is located next to the borders with Albania, north of . Nowadays the delta is situated to the north of the original one, which used to be south of mount Mavro Oros. However, drainage works have since moved the river mouth to the north of Mavro Oros. There, where the river fl ows into the Ionian Sea, are lagoons, salt marshes, freshwater marshes, reedbeds and mudfl ats inviting dozens of species. The old delta area, as well as its surroundings, is also of great ornithological importance.

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116 Bubulcus ibis Egret Cattle 117 Highlight Species

Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Glossy Ibis • Spoonbill • Cattle Egret • Dalmatian Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Great Spotted Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Bonelli’s Eagle • Stone Curlew • Collared Pratincole • Olive-tree Warbler • Greater Short-toed Lark • E O G T T T H

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118 Sandpiper Broad-billed Calandrella brachydactyla Calandrella Greater Short-toed Lark Greater

GET O T The town of Igoumenitsa lies 480 km northwest of Athens and 324 km T H

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H oumenitsa you must follow the road to Sagiada and then to the village of Ragio. There, you will find a dirt road turning left, before the dam, and leading to a bridge over the river. After crossing this bridge, the dirt road to your left will lead you to the delta.

OUTE R Very close to Igoumenitsa, this is a good spot for feeding Glossy Ibis- near Drepano, is the marsh of es and herons, among which the (rare in Richos (1), a small lagoon that Greece) Cattle Egret. dries out completely in summer. In winter and spring though, it is teeming with wad- The new delta of the river is located north ers, herons and ducks. A mid-winter visit of the IBA and there is an embankment may yield up to five to six species of ducks. running parallel to the coastline (4). This is You will easily watch Great Egrets, Snipes a very important area for birds and large and, at the surrounding marshes, many populations visit it every spring and win- Lapwings. A few kilometres to the north- ter. At the beginning of the year (Janu- east of the marsh of Richos, is the lagoon ary and February), the duck populations of Vatatsa (2). Larger than the previous are really large, with Teals and Wigeons one, in winter it hosts even more ducks seen all over the place. The same applies - including Gadwall and Pochard. Apart for herons and grebes, as well as waders from herons and grebes, this lagoon also in spring. Spoonbills have been sighted hosts Mute Swans and Dalmatian Pelicans. at the delta in winter, while Glossy Ibises In spring, along with resident Cormorants, have been seen at the wet meadows at the you will also see Black-winged Stints and eastern part of the delta (5). This is also an Spoonbills. A bit further north of Vatatsa excellent spot where you will easily watch lagoon, there are pastures and rice fields Snipes in winter, and possibly even a Great (3) that get flooded in winter. In spring, Snipe. Of course sandpipers and stints visit 119 Teal Anas crecca Teal the area during migration as well. The best look for Stone Curlews, plovers, Collared way to access the new delta is from Sag- Pratincoles, White Storks and terns, while iada. in winter the chances of seeing the White- tailed Eagle, the Great Spotted Eagle and The area of the old delta of Kalamas (6), a passing Imperial Eagle are high. If you with the lagoon, the saltfl ats, the ripar- love eagles, in harsh winters you can even ian forest and the mudfl ats, is an equally spot the Golden Eagle, preying on ducks. important region for birdwatching. Dal- The highlight of the area is the Olive-tree matian Pelicans and Greater Flamingos Warbler, which visits the bushes and the are common sights along with all the interspersed trees on the hills of the delta aforementioned species. The old delta of in spring and summer. Kalamas is the westernmost part of the IBA. The Curlew is very common in winter Just before its estuary, river Kalamas fl ows here as well as at the new delta, while in through a gorge hosting a colony of Grif- harsh winters you will also fi nd Whooper fon Vultures. Other raptors occur in this Swans. All over this huge area between gorge as well, such as the Lesser Spotted the new and the old delta (7) you can Eagle and the Short-toed Eagle.

ME TO I T V T I Winter is very productive for waterfowl, large birds of prey and the scen- S

S I T E ery is very beautiful. Spring is recommended, apart from the other breed- B ers, for the Olive-tree Warbler. However, you have to visit the area from late May onwards, if you want to see it.

Other interesting fauna/fl ora Hedgehogs, Foxes, , Stone Mar- tens, , Otters and Wildcats are the most important mammals. There are also EXTRAS many reptiles and amphibians, while in the sea area the Loggerhead Turtle Caretta Kalamas is the most reliable site for caretta is often seen. the Cattle Egret, even though it has started to expand its range in Greece. 120 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 121 Amvrakikos Gulf Amvrakikos gulf is a huge waterbody, located in western Greece. This natural gulf is the largest in Europe, shared by the Prefectures of Preveza, Arta and Aitoloakarnania. The area is of great ornithological importance as, apart from the richness of habitats, it is located on one of the main migration routes of Greece. The north part of the gulf is the most important as it is full of lagoons, sand spits, salt pans, marshes, reedbeds, salt marshes, sandy shores, rivers, many canals, riparian forest rem- nants, hills and cultivated land. More than 250 bird species have been recorded here, including both common and very rare birds as well.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a Ramsar site, a Barcelona Convention site

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S R and an Important Bird Area (GR081). P

122 BotaurusBittern stellaris 123 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Great Spotted Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Saker Falcon • Eagle Owl • Ferruginous duck • Great Snipe • Dalmatian Pelican • Pygmy Cormorant • Bittern • Glossy Ibis • GE Spoonbill O T T • T H

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Stone Curlew R

O • E Collared Pratincole • H Gull-billed Tern • Whiskered Tern • Black Tern • Pandion haliaetus Pandion

124 Osprey Burhinus oedicnemus Burhinus Stone-curlew

GET O T Amvrakikos gulf is located in western Greece. The closest towns are Arta, T H

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R Preveza, Vonitsa and Amfilochia. Arta is 350 km west of Athens and Pre-

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H veza is 360 km. From Thessaloniki, distances are, more or less, the same.

OUTE R One of the most famous in- Greater Flamingos and Avocets are also habitants of the area is the usually present. Dalmatian Pelican and this is one of its few breeding sites in the world. Before reaching the Information Centre It occurs all around the gulf, but the areas of Salaora, there is a small port (1) on where you will definitely spot it are the la- your right, with fishing boats and a dyke goons of Logarou and Tsoukalio. Starting covered by shingles that fades into the your exploration from the town of Arta, distance. We suggest that you follow it, follow the southwest route which will lead at least for as much as your car or feet al- you to the road between the two lagoons low. In order to go down to the port and and then to Koronisia. This is a wonderful the dyke, you must cross a bridge, on the route that will reward you with great scen- metal railing of which you will see Black- ery and views of many species, especially headed Gulls and Yellow-legged Gulls if you decide to follow it in spring or win- which will only fly away when your car is ter. The route begins at the traffic lights of just next to them. They are the most com- the famous bridge of Arta. A long straight mon gulls in Greece and in this area as road crosses the valley of Arta, scented by well, but they are definitely not the only the orange blossoms in spring, leaving ones here. As soon as you’ve crossed the behind Kostakioi and then the junction to bridge, have a look at the water on your Aneza, Psathotopi, Kalogeriko and Vigla, left. You will probably find the Slender- finally leading you to the two lagoons that billed Gull. And if it is spring, then take are really promising, even at first sight. The a look at your right side as well, because first species you will most probably see at here is the spot where migrating Little the lagoons is the Dalmatian Pelican. The Gulls sit calmly! The dyke goes deep into second will definitely be the Cormorant. the lagoon of Tsoukalio, almost next to 125 Aythya nyroca Aythya Ferruginous Duck Ferruginous

the lagoon of Rodia. Depending on the also see Little Ringed Plovers and Ringed season, along this route you can observe Plovers. Curlews and the less timid but not many different waders - and they are not so common Whimbrels can be observed the only visitors. In spring, at the flooded from a very close distance, along with marshes on your right, Black-winged Stilts Greater Flamingos. Towards the end of are flirting, Dalmatian Pelicans are either the dyke, the riparian vegetation consists fishing or grooming their plumage, and mainly of reedbeds. Look for Little Bitterns sandpipers and Greater Flamingos are and warblers here. On your way back, scan feeding on the mudflats. On your left, the area once more. It is never the same! sandpipers and stints are abundant, as When going up the bridge towards the well as terns (in autumn you will easily asphalt road, if you are here at dusk in see Caspian Terns) and herons. After the summer, keep an eye out for the Nightjar. building used by fish farmers (the fences This is one of its feeding grounds and you around it are full of swallows and martins), will probably find it sitting by the side of you will see Great Egrets, Little Egrets and the road or flying as if performing a “sui- Grey Herons competing on each other for cide dive” towards the headlights of your the fish that are stranded in shallow wa- car in order to catch insects. The asphalt ters, next to the fish ponds; in winter the road, after passing the Information Centre Red-breasted Merganser and the Black- of Salaora, leads to the village of Koronisia. throated Loon are common sights. Com- In winter, many ducks can be seen at sea, mon Terns, Little Terns, Sandwich Terns including Velvet Scoters! At the end of the and, less often, Caspian Terns fish here as road is the village of Koronisia which used well, since food is abundant in these wa- to be an island before it was connected ters, and you will certainly watch them with the 4-5 km asphalt dyke. From the diving from a very close distance. The way hill where the chapel of Panagia of Koro- Caspian Terns dive is really spectacular, so nisia is situated, you can get a panoramic if photography is your hobby you will get view of the wetlands and their birds. You plenty of chances for good shots. Kentish can find fish taverns and accommodation 126 Plovers are all over the place but you will here, while on migration you might have the opportunity to see an Osprey, which you haven’t and just look in front of you, seems to like the area next to this quiet vil- because to your left is a cowshed and the lage. There is a legend about the area, that cows are loose and they will probably be there is a tavern owner who has devel- on the road where you are as well! The dirt oped an intimate relationship with many road ends (for now) at the small port of wild animals. He can call some of them (!) Strongyli. and they come to get a nibble off his hand! Well, I have only seen a Dalmatian Pelican From Strongyli you can easily go to the and a Red Fox with my own eyes… dyke of Rodia. Follow the route towards the National Road and before the junc- The road from Arta to Koronisia crosses tion you will see a dirt road on your left. the road (2) leading to the village of Vigla, There is a low wooden observation hide, swerving among densely vegetated ditch- not well maintained, just at the beginning es, Coots, Little Grebes and – in spring – of the dirt road. This (4) is the route fol- Squacco Herons, Night Herons and Little lowing the flow of river Louros, almost up Bitterns, as well as among fields hosting to its delta. On your left you will have the Common Buzzards, Kestrels and - in winter vast marsh of Rodia (2,700 hectares) with - Merlins and Sparrowhawks. At the end of its equally large reedbed, and on your the village is a dirt road running parallel to right you will have the floodplain zone of mount Mavrovouni. At the beginning of Louros. This zone is located between the the dirt road pay attention to the shallow two embankments of the river and it is an waters on your left. Mudflats, reedbeds extremely rich and interesting area in or- and wet meadows form the ideal habitat nithological terms. The water of the marsh for Black-winged Stilts, Glossy Ibises and of Rodia has almost become brackish af- Spoonbills. The mountain will be on your ter the construction of the dykes, while right (3) and here you have the opportu- in the floodplain zone is fresh water. The nity to watch the Long-legged Buzzard in embankment is full of potholes and water flight, and after the chapel of Panagia of puddles following rain make it inacces- Rodia, the local Eagle Owl at the protrud- sible at some point after you’ve reached ing rocks on your right. On the mountain halfway. Even when it is dry, it is wise to slopes look for the odd Olive-tree Warbler drive slowly. Birds and birdwatching need while the Red-backed Shrike is much eas- cautious movements anyway. Before you ier to find. The presence of the Short-toed start driving on the embankment, if you Eagle, which you will probably view in are around in spring, take a look at the nar- flight above Mt Mavrovouni, is an indica- row strip between that and the National tion that there are reptiles around. On the Road. This part (5) resembles a meadow mountain, there used to be quite a few and is usually flooded, so Glossy Ibises, Lit- Golden Jackals. Nowadays, you can only tle Egrets, Squacco Herons and Spoonbills hear them in spring. Be sure that, even if are looking for food here. They are used to you have never heard them before, you human presence so they are quite tolerant, will definitely recognise their howl call. allowing you to watch and photograph them from a very close distance. Just a There is a splendid view from here to the piece of advice for photographers: this lagoon of Rodia. This is the deepest lagoon embankment goes south, so in the morn- and thousands of ducks and Coots gather ing the light comes from your left and in here in winter. Approaching the village of the afternoon from your right. At the be- Strongyli, where the dirt road ends, scan ginning of the embankment on the right, the low rocks to your right. Somewhere is a small but dense reedbed. In June, you around here, the Rock Nuthatch builds its can spot here whole families of Coots and impressive nest. If you do spot it, pretend Moorhens on a background of fresh reeds, 127 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Pelecanus crispus Pelecanus Dalmatian Pelicans Pelicans Dalmatian water lilies and greenish reflections on the ful. The terns you will observe being fed by water. Moving ahead, you will start view- their parents every now and then are in- ing herons, with the Little Egrets coming deed Gull-billed Terns. As for what you can up first. Grey Herons and mainly Squacco see protruding from the fallen tree trunks, Herons will appear further down - espe- it is not wood. It is the Nightjar! cially the latter are everywhere! You will certainly see a Purple Heron as well. Half- The elevated observation hide you will way of this route the landscape reminds of find on the embankment will offer you in- a mangrove forest. Trunks half-sunk in the credible views of the vast reedbed, as well water, wild vegetation, shores with dense as the chance to see many Marsh Harriers vegetation, trees with their roots in the flying among the reedbed stands. Here water, still and flowing water, they all look you might also see Whiskered Terns and as if they’ve come out of a BBC documen- Black Terns that nest in small numbers at tary! Kingfishers sitting on well-chosen the delta of Louros. As for birds of prey, branches above the water surface, Night in spring, apart from Marsh Harriers you Herons looking like statues on fallen tree will also find Lesser Spotted Eagles, a pair trunks, Little Bitterns balancing like acro- of which breeds in the nearby oak forests bats on the thinnest reed in order to catch on the mountain. Just before the observa- their prey, Penduline Tits flying back and tion hide, there is a large clearing on your forth from their hanging nests, Bearded left. A Peregrine Falcon often occurs here. Reedlings picking food from the reed At the same places, every winter you will blossoms, Great Reed Warblers singing in- quite easily see the Great Spotted Eagle, cessantly… Unique images! On your way as more than 10 individuals overwinter to the river mouth, Little Bitterns will be here and at the delta of Arachthos. They endlessly crossing the road back and forth, choose a tall tree from which they can su- forcing you to stop the car. But if they don’t pervise the area, full of ducks and waders spot you first, then you won’t either - they at the time - and since the tree foliage is are masters of camouflage so you won’t not dense, you will definitely find them. In be able to distinguish them from... a reed! winter, another magnificent and rare rap- Like the Bittern, which is also difficult to tor occurs here: the Imperial Eagle. spot but you might get the opportunity to locate it among the reeds. At the opposite The Ferruginous Duck inhabits and breeds shores, Snipes freeze as you pass by, while at the floodplain zone of Louros. You can the reflection of the Spotted Redshank in spot this beautiful duck, which is an en- 128 the water makes it look even more beauti- dangered species, looking for food in the ME TO Spring and winter are the best seasons, even though autumn and sum- I T V T I S mer are also very interesting. It’s always worth visiting Amvrakikos!

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E B shallow waters followed by its ducklings. (8). Extended saltfl ats, salt marshes, mud- In late afternoon, when the sun sets and fl ats and shallow shores host thousands of the colours are magnifi cent, you can ad- waders. Black-tailed Godwits, terns, sand- mire its unique colour. At the same time pipers, stints and Little Gulls visit the area of the day, Glossy Ibises and Spoonbills to feed. In winter, you can get close views gather to roost, herons fl y to their colony of swans, Dalmatian Pelicans, herons and at the marsh of Rodia and the Night Her- thousands of ducks. The Bar-tailed Godwit ons are getting ready to start ”hunting”. has also been sighted in the area. Another The sky above the marsh is full of birds and interesting route starts from Neochori and all sorts of voices fi ll the atmosphere. Truly ends at the lagoons of Koftra and Paliom- magical moments! pouka (9). This is where the old riverbed of Arachthos used to be and its islets are The rest of the north shore of Amvrakikos nesting grounds for Sandwich Terns. In gulf is located east of these lagoons winter, Great Spotted Eagles forage and, (Rodia, Tsoukalio, Logarou). Heading from during migration, Ospreys can be seen Arta to Koronisia, turn left towards Aneza. fi shing next to Dalmatian Pelicans. In au- You will defi nitely see many White Storks. tumn 2008, the Western Reef Egret was From here you can head to Psathotopi (6), recorded. so that you can reach the western part of The huge gulf of Amvrakikos with the la- the delta of Arachthos and the area named goons of Tsopeli, Mazoma and Katafourko Fidokastro. This area has many fi sh farm- are places that are there for you to ex- ing units and all sorts of habitats: saltfl ats, plore. reedbeds, tamarisk stands and mudfl ats. The abundance of food here attracts many Other interesting fauna/fl ora waders. Along with Glossy Ibises, herons Apart from birds, the area also hosts mam- and Black-winged Stilts, you will also see mals like the Golden Jackal and the Ot- Collared Pratincoles and Stone Curlews. ter, while the Loggerhead Sea Turtle is a This is the place where you will most prob- frequent sight of the marine area, along ably have the opportunity to spot a Bit- with the Bottle-nosed Dolphin which has tern. In winter, this is also a good place for a small local population in the gulf of Am- the Hen Harrier. vrakikos. The ichthyofauna of the area is East of Arachthos is the village of Sykies. also very rich. Further south of this village, the road leads to the port of Kopraina (7), which used to be the seaport of Arta. At the restored buildings (old customs house of the port), the Natural History Museum of Kopraina is now housed. A walk towards the light- EXTRAS house and the lagoon of Agrilos will off er You need to visit this area more you views of herons, Kentish Plovers, Com- than once and, each time, mon Terns and Little Terns in spring, and in a diff erent season. If you have to many ducks in winter. From Sykies you can reach the village of pick only one date, then late May Kommeno, at the east bank of Arachthos, is the best period. and then get to the wetland of Plamatero 129 Mesolongi and Aitoliko lagoons The lagoon of Mesolongi, Aitoliko and the deltas of rivers Acheloos and Evinos are located in the prefecture of Ai- toloakarnania, at the western edge of Central Greece, ap- proximately 3.5 hours away from Athens. This wetland com- plex is huge and it is a breeding, wintering, feeding and resting site for thousands of birds, making the whole area one of the most important both for birds as well as for birdwatchers!

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, an Important Bird Area (GR092), a National

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130 roseus Phoenicopterus Flamingos Greater Kleisova lagoon 131 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Great Spotted Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Osprey • Griffon Vulture • Saker Falcon • Lesser Kestrel • Black Kite • Ferruginous Duck • Slender-billed Gull • Stone Curlew • Collared Pratincole • GE Greater Sand Plover O T T • T H

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O • E Bar-tailed Godwit • H Great Snipe • Gull-billed Tern • Caspian Tern • Greater Short-toed Lark • Larus genei Larus

132 Gull Slender-billed Charadrius leschenaultii Charadrius Greater Sand Plover Sand Plover Greater

GET O T The town of Mesolongi is in western Greece, 240 km west of Athens. T H

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H Patra National Road and via the impressive bridge of Rio-Antirio, or alternatively you can go via Itea and Nafpaktos, which is a longer but very scenic route.

OUTE R Rich shallow lagoons, riv- of Mesolongi and the dozens of different ers, saltworks, mudflats, salt species seen along this short walk is an marshes, sand dunes, sand excellent first impression of the place. This spits, canals and reedbeds form an ex- 5-km-long straight road with the cycle tended wetland complex. Mount Arakyn- path running parallel to it can make you thos to the northeast, also contributes to forget all your worries. And if you are there the biodiversity of the area, as do the cliffs at sunset, you will certainly not forget it! of Varasova located to the east. Apart from Kingfishers, depending on the Even though it is often said that nowadays season, you will also see Common Terns, nothing is as it used to be (which is obvi- Little Terns, Sandwich Terns and Caspian ously true), the area can still satisfy nature Terns. Slender-billed Gulls often feed at lovers and definitely birdwatchers. Even in the shallow waters. During the breeding the city of Mesolongi, where riding a bi- season they get a rosy colour on their cycle is common practice, you can see lots breast, and if you look at their reflections of birds, especially in winter and spring. In in the lagoon you will certainly be im- early spring, a walk by the seaside (1) and pressed! Many Little Egrets and Grey Her- the straight road to Tourlida can offer you ons fish here, while Kentish Plovers, Little the opportunity to spot many Kingfishers Ringed Plovers and Curlews are common - which could just as well be the emblem sights at the shores, along with stints and of the town. This walk is a typical route sandpipers. At the end of the route to- for those who don’t drive. The calm water wards Tourlida there is a saltworks, but it on both sides of the road and the reflec- is closed and inaccessible. It still attracts tions on its surface, the fishing boats with birds which will definitely fly by your side. no keel (called “gaita”), the amazing light The lagoon of Kleisova is on your left hand 133 Recurvirostra avosetta Recurvirostra Avocet Avocet

side. There is a network of dirt roads start- have resumed breeding here after 70 years ing from the asphalt road, either leading of absence! The Greater Sand Plover, the you some hundreds of metres further in Knot and the Bar-tailed Godwit are only the lagoon or following its circumference some of them. The Mew Gull, the Medi- and taking you to the seaside, or even go- terranean Gull and the Whimbrel have ing in big circles to take you back to the also been sighted, while the Grey Plover is point where you started from. For these common and widespread. The north route routes you need a car, though not neces- leads to a fish farm and completes a circle sarily a 4x4 vehicle. At the dirt roads that at the northwest edge of Kleisova. The end a bit further down, you can see from dirt road (3) passes by the old waste tip of a very close distance Turnstones, sand- the city, constantly visited by hundreds of pipers and stints, herons (even the timid gulls, even Black Kites! The straight road Great Egrets), as well as Cormorants, those after the waste tip and before a beautiful skilful fishers whose population has in- route on an asphalt road has offered stun- creased here as well, along with Greater ning flights of Cranes during migration, Flamingos. The accessible dirt roads will and views of Black Terns, White-winged also offer you such views and the more Terns and Whiskered Terns sitting on poles you go on the more species you’ll see, in- in the water, Caspian Terns in autumn and cluding Avocets, Mallards and Marsh Har- Merlins in winter. On your left, at the mud- riers. In winter, the Hen Harrier is common, flats formed when the water level of Kleis- while during migration make sure you are ova rises, Broad-billed Sandpipers and even more attentive when looking at har- many Greater Flamingos and plovers have riers because you might find a Montagu’s, been seen among sandpipers and stints. or even a Pallid Harrier. At the coastal zone There is a long and narrow reedbed on (2), which is unfortunately full of illegal your right along the straight asphalt road, huts, many important or rare species can which is teeming with warblers, including be seen in winter. In early spring, one can Cetti’s Warblers. At the end of the road, just 134 also observe Dalmatian Pelicans, which before entering the town, Mute Swans, Greater Flamingos, herons and the ubiq- shrubs are full of Fan-tailed Warblers and uitous Kingfishers are common sights. At at the edge of the water Kentish Plovers the small canal northwest of Kleisova look usually look for food. The dirt road stops for Little Crakes. Mesolongi port is another abruptly at a canal, after which you will place worth visiting, as many common but see a small artificial islet. This is a nesting interesting species arrive in winter. site for Little Terns and with a good pair of binoculars you will be able to have very The next lagoon of the area is the one of good views. Mesolongi. It is large and shallow, stretch- ing to the islet upon which Aitoliko town Heading back along the dirt road with the is built. Birdwatching from the east side observation hide in the centre of the salt- is difficult as distances are large. The la- works, do not turn left or right, just keep goon of Aitoliko is the northernmost and going straight on. After two or three salt the deepest, with a maximum depth of pans you will see Common Terns, Black- 28 m. It can be reached from Mesolongi, winged Stilts and Avocets flying above as it is very close to its northwest side. But you, Greater Flamingos in the background the road you have to follow to get to the lifting their heads warily and moving away, lagoon, first passes by the saltworks of as well as sandpipers and stints scolding Mesolongi. You will see it on your left hand you while flying at nearby salt pans! Never side (4) driving towards Aitoliko, and it is leave the main dirt roads when you are in impossible to miss because of the white a saltworks! There might be nests on the mountains of salt seen! This is a private ground, not easily seen with the naked and guarded saltworks , so you can’t enter eye. without permission. This place is full of the famous salt pans that are used for collect- The “wildest” part of the saltworks is the ing water. The pink coloured salt pans are one at the western side, where it actually full of the Brine Shrimp Artemia salina, a ends. Here you might spot a pair of Oys- small crustacean zooplankton known for tercatchers or foraging Snipes. You may centuries as the “salt-pan shrimp”, as it is a also see Marsh Harriers looking for prey species adapted to high salt levels. The salt and possibly a Curlew dipping its long bill pans located at the south side, as well as in thick mud. those looking towards the sea to the west, Access here is difficult, even on foot, so usually host large groups of Greater Fla- you’d rather avoid this place. And don’t mingos. In order to observe them closely, even think of getting there by car! If you walk to the south where the management visited the saltworks by car, as soon as you of the saltworks has installed a big wooden leave you must have it washed at a car- observation hide for birdwatching and en- wash to rinse off the salt. Then drive on to vironmental education. In spring, through Aitoliko. There is another stop though be- the observation hide’s windows you can fore getting there. Just after the saltworks also see flocks of beautiful Avocets -“cut you will see a bridge on your way. To the ting” the calm waters with their bills in left of the bridge is a dirt road, a strip of search of food, as well as Black-winged land that separates the saltworks from the Stilts along with many stints and sandpip- sea (5). If you follow it, you will have the ers. On the dirt road - which is full of salt salt pans on your left and the sea on your - leading to the observation hide, one or right. Here you will observe many King- two pairs of Stone Curlews breed and you fishers, herons, Stone Curlews and, in early have to look really carefully to spot them. spring, Great Snipes or Sanderlings. Most probably you will get as close as two At the seaside you can see Dalmatian Peli- or three meters from them, but you will cans and, in winter, large concentrations only notice them when they fly away! The of Great Egrets. 135 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Hydroprogne caspia Hydroprogne Caspian Tern Tern Caspian Another interesting and rare species oc- you don’t feel like doing the whole tour, curs in the nearby reedbed. When you you can simply cross Aitoliko and reach reach the asphalt road leading to Aito- the west side, heading towards Neochori liko, drive slowly. Just 50 meters after the and the delta of Acheloos. The route after bridge, there is another dirt road turning Neochori (7) will remind you what river left again. There you will meet a small deltas used to look like, even though hu- reedbed which is quite dense and you man intervention has been significant. usually can’t see the water among the There are many cultivated fields, endless reeds, but if you take a closer look you expanses of land full of glasswort species will view Ferruginous Ducks, while during (Salicornia sp.), dry or flooded land -hid migration you can spot Little Bitterns and ing pleasant surprises, mudflats, marshes Glossy Ibises. and shores. The delta can be reached ei- ther from Neochori or from the village of Aitoliko is actually an island, even though Katochi (8), depending on which side you a not obvious one! It is connected to the want to see. From Neochori a large canal mainland by two roads, one running flows towards the sea, parallel to the river. through the town and a peripheral one. The asphalt road next to it will lead you The island separates the lagoons of Meso- to the location named Bouka (9), which is longi and Aitoliko. It is a picturesque place, nowadays the estuary of the river. especially when you are on the bridges You will certainly know you are in the right (6). It is visited by thousands of Coots and place because there is an island just op- many ducks in winter. If you tour around posite, named Oxeia, and a small lagoon. the lagoon you will certainly view many of Griffon Vultures used to nest at Oxeia until the above-mentioned species, especially recently and even though it is not a nest- in winter and spring, and you will end at ing site any more, it won’t be surprising if the west side of the area where the main you actually see one. The whole area can 136 attraction is river Acheloos. Of course, if reward you with views of many species, ME TO I T V Winter and spring are the best seasons to visit the area. Autumn is also T I S

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E very promising. B especially if you visit it in spring, or even Other interesting fauna/fl ora better, in winter. We suggest that you use The area hosts very interesting fl ora, in- a 4x4 vehicle, as it gets really muddy after cluding rare or Balkan and Greek endemic rain. And raining is not at all a rare phe- species. Close to the village of Lesini lies nomenon in western Greece. one of the last remaining forests of Cau- casian Ash in Greece. This residual forest In winter, among the big fl ocks of Lap- has been declared a Natural Monument wings, rare relatives show up. For example, and is very rich in amphibians and reptiles. the Sociable Lapwing was seen here in No- Species found here include the Tree Frog, vember 2007. At the waste tip of the area the Pond Terrapin, the Balkan Terrapin, the you can easily fi nd Black Kites, while dur- Dahl’s Whip Snake, the Nose-horned Viper, ing the same season the Hen Harrier, the the Hermann’s Tortoise, the Marginated Saker Falcon and the Merlin are frequent, Tortoise and the Kotschy’s Gecko. It is also along with the rare Imperial Eagle. Anoth- rich in mammals, including the Otter. er rare raptor that visits the country more and more often nowadays and seems to prefer this area is the Black-winged Kite.

Areas like Kochlias, Agia Triada and Vroma- lykes (10) deserve thorough investigation. These are large regions certainly hosting EXTRAS many species of birds or being visited by Close to Mesolongi, them during migration. Collared Pratin- next to the village of Lesini, lies a coles, Gull-billed Terns, Caspian Terns, Ca- rare Ash forest, at the northern part landra Larks and Greater Short-toed Larks are some of them. of Acheloos Delta. It has an area of c.60 ha and consists mainly At the north part of the delta of Acheloos of Caucasian Ash. there are still some small, remnant tracts It is certainly worth a visit. of riparian woodland. The most important At the village of Lesini, is Fraxos, close to the village of Lesini (11). Lesser Kestrels nest and are This is a promising area for Otters. In the easy to see. village of Lesini, you will defi nitely fi nd breeding Lesser Kestrels.

The best known part of mount Arakyn- thos, which is located to the north-north- west of Mesolongi, is actually on the National Road. The impressive gorge of Kleisoura (12), crossed by the road lead- ing from Mesolongi to Agrinio, is a really good place to spot Griff on Vultures. You can even view them from inside your car (at least this was the case when this book was written)! Long-legged buzzard is also frequent. 137 Mount Olympos Mount Olympos (2,917 m) is the highest mountain in Greece. It is located on the border of Thessaly and Macedonia and is shared by the Prefectures of Larisa and Pieria. The Olympos National Park , established in 1938, covers an area of 40 km2 which is located solely in the Prefecture of Pieria. The mountain is a circular, towering peak, and on a clear day you can see almost half of mainland Greece from its highest peaks. In 1981, mount Olympos was declared a Bio- sphere Reserve because of its rich and well preserved natural environment as well as its prominent position in Greek mythology.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park, a Biosphere Reserve and an

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138 chrysaetosGolden Eagle Aquila 139 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Tengmalm’s Owl • Wallcreeper • Alpine Chough • Snowfinch • Alpine Accentor • Horned Lark • Lanner Falcon • Golden Eagle • Crested Tit • Marsh Tit • Willow Tit • GE Dipper O T T • T H

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species. H Falco eleonorae Falco Aegolius funereus Aegolius

140 Owl Tengmalm’s Falcon Eleonora’s Lophophanes cristatus Lophophanes Crested Tit Tit Crested

GET O T The easiest way to reach the area is from the village of Litochoro that is T H

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H km from Thessaloniki. From there, follow the asphalt road leading to the beautiful monastery of Osios Dionysios, then to the mountain refuge at the location of Stavros and finally, after approximately 18 km, you reach the location Prionia. Here you will find a small café, which is also your last contact with “civilisation”, as from this point on, you have to start walk- ing up to the refuge of “Spilios Agapitos” or to the mountain peaks. Every single trail winds through a stunning landscape, with flora going wild in certain parts and endemic plants lying just by your side! Olympos is a truly unique mountain, worth of attention and respect.

OUTE R The mountain’s birdlife is also can also enjoy watching the Honey Buz- exceptional. Who doesn’t want zard in flight. The forest surrounding you, to see the Wallcreeper moving hosts nine of the ten European species along the steep rocks and perpendicular of woodpeckers! And during migration slopes? In winter it descends to lower al- you will definitely have the opportunity titudes and it has been sighted close to to view the Wryneck. Olympos also holds the old monastery of Osios Dionysios, al- two or three pairs of Golden Eagles while though the place where you can certainly the Black Vulture and the Lammergeier spot it - apart from the mountain peaks that used to visit the area in the past seem named “Mytikas” and “Thronos tou Dia” to have disappeared for at least ten years (meaning “the throne of Zeus”) - is Enipeas now… In the dense parts of the forest, it gorge (1), just above Litochoro. This is seems to be easier than anywhere else in also the territory of a pair of Peregrine Fal- Greece to see the Goshawk hunting Wood cons, but you can just as well see Ravens Pigeons, as well as the Sparrowhawk on which often visit the area. Further down the lookout for songbirds at the clearings. the hill, at the location of Stavros (2), it is At the western and southwestern parts worth looking for the Crested Tit and the of the mountain you will enjoy views of Common Crossbill, while in spring you the Levant Sparrowhawk. Even though 141 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Dryocopus martius Black Woodpecker Woodpecker Black

this wild landscape is quite hostile to the If you decide to walk from Prionia (4) to- eager birdwatcher, Tawny Owls, Eagle wards the refuge you might come across Owls, Long-eared Owls and Tengmalm’s Rock Buntings and Alpine Choughs. From Owls are the nocturnal highlights. The autumn onwards, when the temperature last-named has not been sighted for sev- falls, Alpine Accentors and Horned Larks eral years and it remains an “open stake” are easier to see just next to the mountain for devoted birdwatchers looking for rare refuge (5). If you like watching the sky for species, while rumour has it that the Dot- birds you might also admire the Golden terel visits the alpine grasslands. Well, this Eagle and Alpine Swifts. If you have the mountain is a living legend anyway... courage to climb even higher (6), you will be rewarded with the sight of Snow- The Mistle Thrush is ubiquitous, as is the finches and definitely of the Wallcreeper. Wood Nuthatch. The Song Thrush also The Water Pipit and the Whinchat nest in breeds. As for the common species, the alpine and subalpine grasslands and are area hosts tits, and if you go next to the both fairly easy to see. If mountain climb- river, close to the old monastery of Osios ing is too hard for you, you can use guides Dionysios (3), you will find Long-tailed and mules that are there to help you go Tits and Marsh Tits. If you are lucky you further up the hill, but it is advised to avoid 142 will also get a chance to see the Willow Tit. tormenting the poor animals… ME TO Winter could be the most appropriate season to visit the mountain refug- I T V T I S es if it weren’t for the deep snow coverage. Therefore, spring and autumn

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The Short-toed Eagle and the Booted Ea- Olympiada and Sparmos you will reach gle in spring and summer, as well as the the ski resort, and depending on the sea- Peregrine Falcon, the hard to spot Lanner son you can spot some of the above-men- Falcon as well as the Eleonora’s Falcons, tioned species as well as the Black-eared that visit the eastern side of the mountain Wheatear and the Rock Thrush. (7) to feed on insects before leaving for their marine habitats, make Olympos the perfect place for raptor lovers. Other interesting fauna/fl ora Olympos still holds Chamoix, Wildcats, Wild The cold, crystal clear waters of river Eni- Boars, Roe Deer and several other smaller peas (8) host the Dipper and the Grey mammals. Brown Bears and Wolves have Wagtail, while at the southern low slopes been sighted again, after many years of of the mountain you can look for Black absence. At the central park of Litochoro, Storks and Lesser Spotted Eagles. The a is the attraction of the area as Jackdaw is a very common bird that you it is frequently seen searching for food at can watch at its breeding site, when leav- broad daylight! ing Litochoro to head for mount Olympos. The colony is situated next to the bridge Mount Olympos is also a botanical para- (9) you will cross to take the turn leading dise - one of the most precious in Europe. to the mountain. In spring, these lively and Approximately 1,700 plant species and smart birds fl y just above your head bring- subspecies have been recorded in its habi- ing food or nest material to their nests on tats, which comprise almost 1/3 of the the rocks close to the bridge. country’s fl ora. The list includes rare and threatened species, Greek endemic plants, Litochoro is not the only place that off ers as well as 23 local endemics, in other access to mount Olympos. You can also go words, plants that grow nowhere else in to the town of Elassona, on the Thessaly the world! Needless to say, there are many part of the mountain. Heading towards reptiles, amphibians and butterfl ies.

The gorge of river Enipeas is another celebrated crossing here. If religious tourism is one of your interests, you may also visit the old monastery of EXTRAS Osios Dionysios as well as the new mon- astery which is located at the foot of The mountain trails of Olympos are re- the mountain, close to Litochoro. Dion nowned all over the world. Its most fa- is also very close; it was one of the most mous one starts from Prionia and leads sacred places for ancient , to the mountain refuges (“Spilios Agap- where god Zeus was being worshipped itos” - 2,100 m, “Christos Kakkalos” - in all his splendour - an extraordinary 2,650 m, “Giosos Apostolidis” - 2,720 m) archaeological site for the lovers before reaching the summit. of ancient Greek mythology. 143 Antichasia mountains and Meteora The mountain range of Antichasia and the rock formations of Meteora are located east of Pindos, spreading across the northeast part of the Prefecture of Trikala. These low moun- tains are etched by small mountain rivers, such as Mourg- kanis and Lithaios, both tributaries of river. The unique formations of the rocks of Meteora lie at the southwest part of this area, very close to the northern side of Kalam- paka. The area in covered by oak and Oriental Plane forest.

TION C ST This is a NATURA 2000 site and a Wildlife Refuge. It is also an Important E A

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144 percnopterus Neophron Vulture Egyptian 145 Highlight Species

Winter Summer Passage visitor visitor Resident migrant Egyptian Vulture • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Booted Eagle • Lanner Falcon • Levant Sparrowhawk • Black Kite • Long-legged Buzzard • Black Stork • White-backed Woodpecker • Middle Spotted Woodpecker • Blue Rock Thrush •

E The town of Kalampaka is located 22 km northwest of the city of Trikala, O G T T T H 350 km northwest of Athens and 230 km southwest of Thessaloniki. From E

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H signs for Trikala. From Thessaloniki, take the Egnatia Motorway, towards Igoumenitsa, and get off Grevena West-Kalampaka Interchange.

OUTE R The imposing rocks of Meteora and the Crag Martin are common sights (1), famous for their monaster- at the rocks of Meteora and at Theope- ME TO I T V T I ies, host some very rare spe- tra (2), while in oak woodland and at the S

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E cies, like the Egyptian Vulture. In the past smooth slopes of Antichasia you can look B this area held the largest population of this for Booted Eagles, Levant Sparrowhawks, vulture in Greece. More than 50 pairs used Honey Buzzards, Green Woodpeckers, to nest in the area and they often visited Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers and Middle the waste tip of Kalampaka to feed, offer- Spotted Woodpeckers. The area also holds ing excellent views to birdwatchers. Unfor- Eagle Owls, Rock Partridges and Rollers. tunately, these numbers do no longer ex- ist as this is a really difficult period for the At Tzertsi, close to the village of Vlachava Egyptian Vulture globally. Nowadays, less (3) and opposite the recreation area, is than five pairs still survive. But you can still a feeding station for vultures. When the watch them in flight in spring and- sum feeding station is in operation you may mer, along with the Black Kite, the Lesser be lucky and see Egyptian Vultures, Lesser Spotted Eagle, the Short-toed Eagle, the Spotted Eagles, Black Kites as well as Com- Raven and the numerous Hooded Crows mon Buzzards, Ravens and other corvids and Jackdaws. The area is also well known that come for a meal. for the Black Stork, the nesting grounds of which are visible from the asphalt road, The route you will definitely enjoy in Anti- thankfully at a safe height for the birds, as is the one leading to Longas village, well as for the Lanner Falcon and the Pere- where there is a small dam, and then to Fo- grine Falcon. The Rock Nuthatch, the Blue teino village (4). You will probably see the 146 Rock Thrush, the Kestrel, the Alpine Swift Egyptian Vulture, the Lesser Spotted Eagle, Black Kite Milvus migrans

ME TO I Spring has most of the area’s specialties. The beauty of a snowy land- T V T I S

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B great choice. the Short-toed Eagle, the Black Stork and the Middle Spotted Woodpecker in spring. Great Grey Shrikes occur in winter. EXTRAS Other interesting fauna/fl ora The best way to access the area If you enjoy all sorts of wildlife, the area is from the roads north of hosts endemic plants like Centaurea ka- Kalampaka. For mountain climbers, lambakensis and Centaurea lactifl ora, as well as plenty of small and large mammals, both experienced and beginners, including Brown Bears and Wolves. the rocks of Meteora off er the ideal circumstances and routes. But in order not to disturb the breeding raptors that nest on the same rocks, we advise to contact fi rst the local climbing clubs.

147 Reservoirs of former lake Karla, Mount Mavrovouni This site includes a complex of seven shallow reservoirs cre- ated at the basin of the recently restored Lake Karla, which originally constituted the second largest wetland of Europe after the Danube Delta. Next to the reservoirs and to the east is Mount Mavrovouni, a fairly low mountain with gradual slopes, ideal for breeding raptors and woodland birds.

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148 minuta Calidris Little Stint 149 E O G T T T H

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O E H Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Dalmatian Pelican • Ferruginous Duck • Lesser Kestrel • Calandra Lark • Greater Short-toed Lark • Collared Pratincole • Stone Curlew • Great Spotted Eagle • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Long-legged Buzzard • Honey Buzzard • Levant Sparrowhawk • Black Stork • Roller • White-backed Woodpecker • Middle Spotted Woodpecker • Masked Shrike • Olive-tree Warbler • Eastern Orphean Warbler • Sombre Tit • Rock Nuthatch • Semi-collared Flycatcher • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Falco naumanni Falco

150 Kestrel Lesser E O G T T This area lies to the eastern part of the great plain of Thessaly and can be T H

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O E H Athens-Thessaloniki National Road and after c.310 km get off at Veles- tino interchange. Turn right towards the Rizomylos-Kanalia road which leads close to the reservoirs. This area can also be approached from the villages of Stefanovikeio or Kileler and, of course, from the city of Volos. Kanalia village is 35 km north of Volos, or 24 km northeast of Velestino interchange. Tringa erythropus Tringa & Spotted Redshanks & Spotted Tringa stagnatilis Tringa Marsh Sandpipers

OUTE R You can actually start birding mer, by many small passerines, including already from the Rizomylos- Black-headed Buntings. Sparrows and Kanalia road. On your right Corn Buntings are also very common and you can see an army camp. Red-backed widespread during the breeding period. Shrikes and Spanish Sparrows are easily Sombre Tits can also be seen in the same seen sitting on the fence in spring. Further area. down the road you will find a bricks facto- ry and the local Little Owl. Driving towards As you keep heading towards Kanalia you Kanalia village, you will pass by a model will see on your left the largest of all the aircraft club on your left. This means that reservoirs (2), as well as the recently con- some unidentified flying objects you may structed dykes. From the dykes (3), you can come across could actually be model air- scan the area with the use of binoculars or, planes… From this point on, starts the even better, a fieldscope. Thousands of most interesting part of the route. On your ducks are gathered in winter, with Teals right you will have the rocky, west slopes being the most numerous. Dalmatian Peli- of Mavrovouni (1). Rock Nuthatch is quite cans are also common sights nowadays. common, especially in spring, in the lower Almost every recorded heron can be seen rocks. Water troughs in the nearby pens in the area, especially in spring. This is also are visited, especially in spring and sum- the best season to look for birds in the 151 Motacilla flava feldegg Motacilla flava Yellow Wagtail Wagtail Yellow area adjacent to the lake (4); the diversity e.g. Eleonora’s Falcons, Hobbies and Red- and the numbers will be a very pleasant footed Falcons, mixed with local breeding surprise. Among them, Black-headed Bun- Long-legged Buzzards and Peregrine Fal- tings, Corn Buntings, Spanish Sparrows, cons. Tree Sparrows, Yellow Wagtails, Calandra Larks, Greater Short-toed Larks, shrikes, Mount Mavrovouni is also very interest- Collared Pratincoles, Stone Curlews that ing, as White-backed Woodpeckers breed can be seen everywhere in this seemingly in the woodland (6). Black Storks and Rock ME TO bare land. At the water edge, Black-winged Partridges also breed in this area. It is an I T V T I S

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Stilts, sandpipers, stints, gulls, Garganeys, excellent place to look for breeding birds I

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White and Black Storks are literally next of prey like the Lanner Falcon, the Short- B to you. You should always look up in the toed Eagle, the Levant Sparrowhawk, sky for Marsh Harriers, Long-legged Buz- the Lesser Spotted Eagle and the Booted zards and Kestrels. The almond groves are Eagle, while regular visitors include the very good for Middle Spotted and Syrian Golden Eagle, the Long-legged Buzzard Woodpeckers. and the Peregrine Falcon. In winter, Great Spotted Eagles and Imperial Eagles are Getting close to Kanalia (5) but also in the not rare at all, roosting in the woodland village and at the NE outskirts you can find and foraging the reservoirs. Other breed- nests of White Storks on top of churches or ing species include the Masked Shrike, the electricity posts. Roller, the Olive-tree Warbler, the Eastern Orphean Warbler, the Semi-collared Fly- This area is very interesting during spring catcher and the Cretzschmar’s Bunting. A migration. The reservoirs close to Kanalia very promising site, indeed, for all north hold crakes, while along the Kanalia-Ka- European visitors. 152 lamaki road you can find many raptors, Ciconia nigra Ciconia Black Stork

ME TO I Spring is, undoubtedly, the best season to visit this area, when it is teem- T V T I S

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B fowl and full of scenic views. Other interesting fauna/fl ora Mount Mavrovouni is quite rich in mam- mals, including Wild Boars, Roe Deer, Wild- and Wolves. EXTRAS Lesser Kestrels nest in the neighbouring villages, in old houses and warehouses. This is defi nitely one of the best places in Europe to watch and photograph this calm and very beautiful migrant falcon. 153 Spercheios valley and delta River Spercheios is on the way from Athens to Thessaloniki. Even now that the new part of the National Road has been constructed, the delta and the wetland can still be seen to the east, just before the city of Lamia. Apart from the delta, very important birdwatching sites are the valley to the west and Maliakos gulf, at the estuary.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site and an Important Bird Area (GR103). Part of

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154 Hen Harrier cyaneus Circus 155 Highlight Species

Passage Winter visitor Summer visitor migrant Dalmatian Pelican • Jack Snipe • Ferruginous Duck • Great Spotted Eagle • Osprey • Hen Harrier • Lanner Falcon • Crane • Stone Curlew • Collared Pratincole • Slender-billed Gull • Lesser Grey Shrike • Masked Shrike • E O G T T T H Spercheios lies just before the city of Lamia, 210 km north of Athens. The

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OUTE R In spring, the first bird you will lowing seawater to enter and create excel- come across when you reach lent conditions for waders, as important as Anthili (1) is the White Stork. at Porto Lagos in northern Greece. At the central church of the village, two to three nests are occupied every year. There When you reach Anthili, drive towards the are approximately 50 breeding pairs in central square and do not stop (yet) at the the villages throughout the area, which taverns around it. Keep going straight on feed at the delta of Spercheios. This is the until you exit the village and reach the vast most important concentration of storks in area of the delta. At first it might be hard southern Greece, and certainly the largest to believe that this is a delta, because the in the region of Sterea Ellada. fields, the rice fields and the dirt roads may confuse you. But you are on the right route! The delta of Spercheios is of equal im- Keep the National Road as your main point portance to the large wetlands of north- of orientation (even if you don’t see it, you ern Greece. It covers a very large area can definitely hear it), as well as mount Oiti with mudflats, extensive cultivations, rice and the sea to the east, and drive along the fields, salt flats and salt marshes, reedbeds dirt roads towards the estuary. As soon as and canals as well as islets formed by flu- you leave the livestock pens of Anthili be- vial sediments. In combination with the hind you and take a left turn, you will see surrounding Oiti and Othrys mountains, a big building to your right. Count three as well as the sea to the east, it constitutes dirt roads and then turn right (east). Drive a very important site for breeding, win- on for several minutes and you will come tering or passage migrant birds. The area across a pump station which you will eas- 156 around the delta is at sea level height al- ily recognise. If you come in winter, watch Ciconia ciconia Ciconia White Storks Storks White out for Hen Harriers flying over the fields spots for crakes. The reedbeds by the ca- and search carefully the canals in between nals host Little Bitterns and Black-headed the harvested rice fields(2) . This is the best Buntings in spring, while in winter you will place to look for Jack Snipes, an extremely see Moustached Warblers, Reed Buntings cryptic species, which is really hard to spot and, less often, Bearded Reedlings. After even though it seems to be more common the pump station, which will now be on than its records suggest. Here, in spring, your right hand, take the main dirt road you might as well catch a glimpse of the and turn at the second on your left head- Glossy Ibis passing by in search of food, ing towards the sea. At the end of this road while in winter thousands of finches and you will reach a T-junction: the vertical dirt sparrows occupy reeds and bushes. When road runs parallel to the west embank- you reach the pump station, take a look at ment of Spercheios. If you ascend on this the canal and the small pond just next to it embankment, next to the crossroad, you in order to find Kingfishers and then turn will have an excellent view of the part of left. After a few meters along a really bad the wetland southeast of the river mouth. dirt road you will get on the embankment Before you turn, scan the fields, mainly (3) which leads to a very shallow bay, re- those on your left. This is one of the areas sembling a lagoon. Moving along the often visited by the Wildcat. A left turn will embankment (be careful, if it has rained, take you to the sea. You will need at least a your car can easily get bogged down in good pair of binoculars, if not a field scope, mud) you will see, in winter, thousands of in order to scan the area in front of you as ducks and Greater Flamingos. There are distances are large - and this applies for also tens of Marsh Harriers, herons and the entire area of Spercheios. In spring you plovers. During the same season, wad- will see Common Terns and Little Terns in ers and Avocets often occur in the area in flight, as well as Black-winged Stilts look- large groups. Lapwings are also frequent ing for food in the shallow waters. You may visitors and, if you are lucky, you will see also find Collared Pratincoles and Stone large flocks of Golden Plovers. Heading Curlews. Moreover, every winter you can back to the pump station, take a close look view large groups of Greater Flamingos at the canals on both sides, especially dur- in the distance along with large numbers ing spring or autumn. These are excellent of Shelducks and Avocets. Among the 157 common gulls flying over the place, you will reach an observation hide. Observa- ME TO I T V T I might spot a Slender-billed Gull or even a tion hides are often destroyed in this area, S

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E Mew Gull. You can also check for raptors, so you might even find them with no stair- B flying or catching their prey. Common case, burnt or simply ready to collapse. It is Buzzards often take a comfortable seat obvious that local poachers do not really on the scarecrows scattered around the like being watched… When you are there area, Merlins and Lanner Falcons are rare, though, take a look at the few tall trees (5) though, regular sights. Saker Falcon has at the banks of Spercheios. In winter, the also been recorded in winter. Using the Great Spotted Eagle and the Peregrine Fal- field scope, you can also view many ducks con use them as a hide-out. At dusk, a Barn in winter, mainly Teals, but also Gadwalls Owl often sits on the observation hide, and Curlews. During autumn migration, and if you manage to climb up on it, you Ospreys fish in the bay, further away from will possibly find the leftovers of its meal. the shore. During the same season you But most importantly, from here you can will also find Dalmatian Pelicans, and this view the salt flats in the distance, where is the only place to see them in this area. Cranes have been recorded in winter over the last few years - and this is their second At the north bank of the estuary, you can known wintering area in Greece, after drive along the dirt roads, first towards Lake Kerkini. You can also observe large Anthili and then to the north, where you populations of waders and waterfowl, as will come across Germaniki Trench, a large well as many foraging birds of prey, har- safety canal in case Spercheios overflows. riers being particularly common. What is At the mouth of the Trench, which is in- more, there are many gulls at the water’s accessible even on foot, during autumn edge, and in winter of 2006 a Pallas’s Gull migration the Osprey often sits on a fallen was observed! The area becomes even tree trunk using it as its observation hide. more interesting if you spot the Bittern in Additionally, the bay’s shoreline (4) brims winter and the Purple Heron in spring and with ducks, unless a poacher or fisherman summer. drives them away. In this area, fishing and hunting are strictly prohibited. Further Further south there is a bay named Kako- to the north, between Germaniki Trench laspi (6). In order to get there you have to and Roditsa, there is an interesting marine exit at the junction of Agia Triada. Enter area. The gulf is full of ducks every winter, the village and turn left when you see a among which some very rare species. The road sign written in Greek: “προς γήπεδο” Ferruginous Duck is frequent, while among (meaning “to the football ground”). After the large flocks of Pochards you may spot the football ground and an illegal waste a Red-crested Pochard. The area is also ac- tip at the beginning of the salt marshes, cessible from Agia Marina, but there is a you will arrive at the salt flats, where you factory at the best observation spot and will see a cape and Kakolaspi bay. Hun- the premises are private. If you get permis- dreds of Greater Flamingos visit the area sion from the guard you can take a closer in winter and it is worth looking for ringed look at the ducks… If not, visit the taverns birds. You will also see many Great Egrets, at Agia Marina for fresh fish! Shelducks and other ducks. The salt flats next to the waste tip are often a resting The easiest way to access the southern site for many migrant waders, Yellow- part of the estuary of Spercheios (Spilidi legged Gulls and among them, especially bay) is to follow the dirt road east of the in autumn, Caspian Terns. From the same National Road at the junction of Damasta. junction at the old National Road you After another large factory, keep on head- can enter and cross the village of Agia 158 ing east and in parallel to the river and you Triada and reach the coast just after the ME TO I T V Spring and winter are the best seasons. Winter is preferred, as many inter- T I S

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E esting species, including birds of prey, can be sighted. B Black-headed Buntings Emberiza melanocephala Buntings Black-headed village’s cemetery. From here, a coastal are breeding sites for Levant Sparrowhawks dirt road begins, heading south. During and a small colony of Little Egrets. It is also low tide you can have a very close look at the southernmost breeding site for Syrian waders, ducks and herons herons and, in Woodpeckers and Masked Shrikes. winter, at Red-breasted Mergansers. Ap- proximately 10 km east of Agia Triada, is Other interesting fauna/fl ora cape Chiliomili that attracts migrants and Red Squirrels, Badgers, Wolves, Otters and wetland birds. You can reach it from the many other smaller mammals fi nd refuge junction at the old National Road leading in riparian forests, gullies, scrubland and to the village of Skarfeia. Once you turn, cultivations. Many dolphins swim in the drive towards the satellite dishes of the waters of Maliakos gulf, while more than Hellenic Telecommunications Organiza- 35 reptile and amphibian species have tion - you can’t miss them, they are huge. been observed at the delta and the sur- Go past them and you will reach the cape’s rounding area. Just 3 km east of Lamia, is lighthouse. In winter, the sea usually hosts the small wetland of Agia Paraskevi (8). In large populations of ducks, Great Egrets the springs located at the entrance of the and Red-breasted Mergansers or even a village, you will see the Critically Endan- Black-throated Loon. This is also the sea- gered Greek Ninespine Stickleback, a small son during which Sandwich Terns will be endemic freshwater fi sh whose global dis- fl ying above your head or fi shing almost in tribution is confi ned to the valley of River front of you. Further north, at the fl ooded Spercheios. wet meadows of the area, Whooper Swans and various geese have been observed, including the extremely rare Red-breasted Goose! This cape and its surrounding area is an excellent site during migration. Red- EXTRAS footed Falcons, Lesser Kestrels and many passerines have been recorded here. It is worth checking for rare gulls The valley of Spercheios (7), is also very in winter. interesting. The remaining riparian forests 159 Mount Parnassos Mount Parnassos is a mountain of central Greece, extending to the Prefectures of Voiotia, Fthiotida and Fokida. It has an altitude of 2,457 m and is one of the highest mountains of Greece. Apart from being a very popular winter destination for mainstream tourists, it is also a very important birdwatching destination, especially for woodland and alpine species. Furthermore, the archaeological site of Delphi is ideal for typical Mediterranean birds.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park and an Important Bird Area

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Summer visitor Resident Lanner Falcon • Golden Eagle • Black Woodpecker • Alpine Chough • Rock Partridge • Blue Rock Thrush • Rüppell’s’ Warbler • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Sombre Tit •

160 saxatilis Monticola Thrush Rock 161 GE O T T Mount Parnassos lies northwest of Athens. The village of Arachova is 155 T H

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W km from Athens and the ski resorts are another 25 km to the north of Ara-

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E H chova. From the Athens-Thessaloniki National Road take the Kastro inter- change, on the 120th km. Drive towards Orchomenos, Livadeia, Distomo, Arachova and Delphi.

OUTE R The first stop you should make the ski resorts, a wide and well-preserved is at the village of Zemeno dirt road (3) leads to Elaionas-Drosochori. (1), where many taverns and A beautiful plateau with camping sites guest houses operate on the right side is found 5 km after the junction with the of the road. On your left, lies a massive asphalt road. This is a promising area for rock formation with steep cliffs. Golden woodpeckers and tits which are abundant Eagles used to frequent this area a few in the wooded parts of the mountain. On years ago and they may still do. This area is your way, you may also catch a glimpse ME TO I T V T I also known to hold White-backed Wood- of birds of prey flying rapidly between S

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E peckers. Three kilometers after Zemeno, the trees, including the elusive Goshawk. B you will enter a tunnel and then you will Sparrowhawks and Common Buzzards are reach the village of Arachova. This is one much more common and, especially in of the trendiest places of Greece, full of winter, Mistle Thrushes are virtually every- restaurants, bars and shops. Pass through where. it quickly and head towards the ski resorts. There are road signs but you may also Return to point (3) and continue on the ask the locals. Leaving Arachova, you will asphalt road towards the ski resorts. Turn start seeing and hearing birds. Follow the right at the first crossroad that leads to asphalt road going uphill to Livadi. This is the ski resorts (after c.11 km). In the first a large plateau, 3-4 km long and 2-3 km 100 m of the ascending road you will see, wide. You will pass through another tun- in spring, a clearing; Red-backed Shrike is nel on your way (2). Stop at any parking common, apparently nesting in the area. lot and scan the steep slopes on your left Halfway along the route towards the ski and the steep cliffs on your right. Alpine resorts you will find another large clear- Choughs are frequently seen in winter and ing on your left. This area is called Varkos Crag Martins in spring, as they nest in the Despoti and it is ideal habitat for the Black cliffs. Woodpecker, the White-backed Wood- pecker and almost all the other wood- A long straight road crosses Livadi plateau peckers of Greece. The asphalt road leads that is full of luxury chalets, restaurants to Kelaria, the first of the most popular ski and coffee shops. At the end of the straight resorts. Turn right to enter the parking lot, road, it is worth making a stop where otherwise continue on the main road to sparse fir trees occur in open grassland. reach the entrance of Fterolakka, the other Blue Tits, Great Tits, Coal Tits and Mistle ski resort. Snowfinch has been recorded at Thrushes are abundant and they are very the parking lot of Kelaria in winter, when cooperative as they are used to human the area is covered with snow. At the same presence. It won’t be a surprise if you also period, the area above Kelaria (4) is very see Common Crossbills, Goldcrests and good for Alpine Chough and Horned Lark Firecrests, Hawfinches and other thrushes. but you need a 4x4 vehicle. If you keep on The same area in spring is very good for this road and provided that it’s not cov- Cuckoos, Lesser Whitethroats, Common ered by snow then you may also find one Buzzards and woodpeckers. After this of the few Rock Partridges left. Needless 162 straight road and before you turn towards to say, every decent birdwatcher should Pyrrhocorax graculus Chough Pyrrhocorax Alpine

ME TO I June is an excellent month to visit the mountain and Delphi, unless you T V T I S

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B move to lower altitudes. always scan the skies for raptors; Golden watching site! Blue Rock Thushes, Rock Eagles and Bonelli’s Eagles have been re- Nuthatches, Sombre Tits, Cretzschmar’s corded, along with Lanner Falcons. The Buntings and Rüppell’s Warblers, all in a Lammergeier is now, sadly, a memory single location! If you don’t want to return from the past… using the same route, you can continue from the ski resorts towards the northern If you don’t enter Kelaria and continue to- slopes. This is a very beautiful route that wards Fterolakka (5) keep your eyes open passes through some picturesque villages for Alpine Accentors, Horned Larks and Al- and leads to the National Road, close to pine Choughs in winter. Ortolan Buntings Lamia. are also common in spring and summer, along with Rock Thrushes and very large numbers of Wheatears. Nuthatches are Other interesting fauna/fl ora abundant in woodland. Scrubland is the Bats, many small , Wild Cats, Red preferred habitat of the Sombre Tit. As Squirrels, Weasels, Hares and Red Foxes regards nocturnal birds of prey, Little Owl are the resident mammals of Mount Par- is found at Livadi, while Tawny Owls and, nassos. There are also several amphibians most probably, Eagle Owls are found in and reptiles, butterfl ies and dragonfl ies. the forest tracts. As the distance from Ara- Flora is also very rich, including several chova is only 10 km, it is hard to resist not Greek endemics, with the endangered visiting the sacred archaeological site of Paeonia parnassica being the most im- Delphi. Besides, it is also a very good bird- pressive species.

cient Greece’s most important oracle. Since antiquity, Delphi, also known as the “bellybutton of the world”, attracts EXTRAS visitors from all over the world. Mount Parnassos is directly linked to Another ski resort is operating in the Greek history and mythology, owing to southern slopes of the mountain, the presence of the Delphi Oracle, An- at “Gerontovrachos” location. 163 Wetland complex of Strofylia and Kotychi If a birdwatcher or nature lover wishes to visit the Pelopon- nese, the area of Kalogria and Strofylia as well as the lagoon of Kotychi will certainly be on his list. The extensive sand dunes, Kotychi, Pappas (or Kalogria) and Prokopos lagoons, Strofylia forest with the large Stone Pines, Lamia marshes and Le- chaina saltworks create a coastal ecosystem of impressive natural beauty, full of life and surprises for visitors!

TION C ST This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park, a Ramsar site and a Wildilfe E A

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Winter visitor Summer visitor Resident Ferruginous Duck • Bittern • Great Spotted Eagle • Collared Pratincole • Gull-billed Tern • Olive-tree Warbler • Bearded Reedling •

164 Ardeola ralloides Heron Squacco 165 Egretta garzetta Egretta Little Egret Little Egret GE O T T The wetland complex lies at the northwest part of the Peloponnese, in T H

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E H hrs drive from it. You can approach the area from the Athens-Patra Na- tional Road, passing the city of Patra and heading towards Amaliada to the south.

OUTE R On your way you will see signs Spring is certainly the best season to visit for the village of Lapas. Turn the area. Hard to see species, such as the right at the intersection (1). Great Spotted Cuckoo, the Olive-tree War- The asphalt road will lead you to Kalogria, bler, the Cattle Egret and the Citrine Wag- crossing the northeast part of the forest tail visit the area, along with large numbers of Strofylia and the lagoon of Prokopos. of Glossy Ibises and Black-winged Stilts - The famous coastal forest of Strofylia (2) is many pairs of the latter stay to nest. Very the dominant feature of the area. It mainly rare species such as the Cream-coloured consists of Stone Pines along with Aleppo Courser and the Caspian Plover have also Pines and oaks. The beauty of the largest been recorded in this area. Stone Pine forest in Greece and the won- derful long sandy beaches to the west side You can start from the northwest part to attract many visitors in summer, unfortu- follow a beautiful route, setting off from nately not for birdwatching, even though Kalogria. Driving towards the lagoon of the forest and the surrounding area host Prokopos you can either explore its north plenty of interesting bird species, as well side, moving between the lagoon and as mammals and reptiles. This is one of the Mavra Vouna mountain (meaning Black 166 best sites in Greece for migrating waders. Mountains in Greek), or follow the route Himantopus himantopus Himantopus Black-winged Stilt Stilt Black-winged between the forest and its west side (3). same season the lagoon is full of ducks, Every spring, the lagoon hosts Garganeys, the majority of them being Pochards. At Ferruginous Ducks, Black-winged Stilts, Mavra Vouna (4), just next to the lagoon, Ruffs, as well as many pairs of Little Grebes there are often climbers on the rocky and Little Ringed Plovers. At the reedbeds slopes and with a bit of effort you might you will find Little Bitterns and, possibly, find the resident Eagle Owl. You can also Bitterns. This is one of the few places in observe the Peregrine Falcon, the Kestrel Greece where you can have good views of and the Common Buzzard. In winter, but the Bearded Reedling, especially in winter not that often, the Great Spotted Eagle sits when they form large flocks. During the on a branch with good views to the ducks 167 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Panurus biarmicus Panurus Bearded Reedling Bearded of the lagoon. Next to Prokopos lagoon The distance from the opposite wetlands are the salt flats of Metochi(5) - a flat, tem- of Mesolongi is really short and Cormo- porarily flooded area. In summer, the area rants along with many ducks visit the area is dry and is a good place to look for Little in winter. Terns, Greater Short-toed Larks and Kent- ish Plovers. The lagoon of Kotychi (8) is located at the southwest part of the area. It is a perma- The road after Metochi (6) leads to the ar- nent aquatic expanse with reedbeds, salt ea’s Information Centre. Further south, be- flats and islets. The easiest way to access it tween the National Road and the village is driving along the Patra-Pyrgos National of Kounoupeli, is the marsh of Lamia. This Road, turning at the junction towards the reedbed hosts quite large populations village of Areti (9). of Water Rails and Squacco Herons even though there is not much water. You will In winter it is full of ducks, including Shov- certainly hear the rough sound of a war- elers, Wigeons, Teals, Pintails, Mallards bler and at the dry spots you will observe and, in spring, Garganeys. Here, you will the Little Ringed Plover searching for food. definitely see Collared Pratincoles and Bearded Reedlings occur here as well. Marsh Harriers.

Birdwatchers interested in terns should At the south edge of the IBA is the inactive visit the lagoon of Araxos (7). Here you can saltworks of Lechaina. Its shallow waters spot Common Terns and Gull-billed Terns offer food to breeding Little Terns, Kentish and possibly some Stone Curlews and Plovers and Black-winged Stilts. Herons, Kentish Plovers. A part of this area - the Glossy Ibises, Ruffs, stints and sandpipers northernmost - is a military zone and ac- also visit the saltworks for food and it is cess is forbidden, so even binoculars and quite easy to see them. 168 cameras should be used with discretion. The whole area is a good place to observe ME TO I Defi nitely spring. Winter and autumn can be, nevertheless, T V T I S

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all species of herons, many species of stints the rocks of Mavra Vouna mountain, you and sandpipers, as well as Sand Martins. can see the Centaurea niederi, an endemic Apart from the Eagle Owl, you will have plant of western Greece, while this is a the opportunity to see Little Owls during good place for orchid species as well. The the day and hear Scops Owl at dusk, while area also hosts 5 amphibian and 20 reptile the Long-eared Owl is a resident of the for- species. est of Strofylia along with the Tawny Owl. Barn Owls nest in small houses and ware- houses found in cultivated land.

Other interesting species you can look for in this area is the Nightjar in the sand dunes, the colony of Lesser Kestrels at Le- EXTRAS chaina (10), while Ospreys are common passage migrants. As many rarities (Great Spotted Cuckoo, Cattle Egret, Citrine Wagtail, Additionally, many Mediterranean species Cream-coloured Cursor, Caspian are residents or summer visitors: Sombre Plover) have been recorded Tits, Black-headed Buntings, Eastern Oli- in the past, this area should be vaceous Warblers, Rock Nuthatches, Blue thoroughly searched by Rock Thrushes and Sardinian Warblers, to birdwatchers. Apart from being of name just a few. exquisite natural beauty and Other interesting fauna/fl ora of great ornithological interest, Apart from birds, the area also hosts Ot- this area is situated very close to ters and the sole population of Jackals in the birthplace of the Olympic Games. NW Peloponnese. Small mammals and The archaeological site of Ancient several bats are common. The sand dunes Olympia is only a few kilometres host Sea Daff odils, while the Loggerhead to the south. Sea Turtles still use them for nesting. On 169 Gialova lagoon Pylos is a beautiful town built on the natural bay of Navarino. The coastal village of Gialova lies 7 km to the west of Pylos. It is ideal for ecotourism trips in the surrounding area, mainly to the Gialova lagoon, one of the most important wetlands of southern Greece.

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a Wildlife Refuge and an Important Bird Area

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Winter visitor Resident Passage migrant Osprey • Great Spotted Eagle • Peregrine Falcon • Eagle Owl • Ferruginous Duck • Glossy Ibis •

170 Ardea purpurea Heron Purple 171 GET ME TO O T Pylos is situated at the southwest of Peloponnese, 300 km from Athens. I T H T V I E T

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B H is the fastest way from Athens) or from the Patra-Pyrgos-Kyparissia road. From spring to autumn, direct flights connect several European airports with Kalamata, 53 km east of Pylos.

OUTE R Gialova lagoon is connected ent species. Halfway you will come across to Navarino bay via a small ca- an elevated wooden observation hide from nal (1) and several small rivers. which you can scan the area towards the Seawater merges with freshwater creating sea and to the west. In spring 2004, a Spur- many different conditions for vegetation winged Lapwing was sighted just next to as well as several different habitats, a fact it, a rare species to Greece that breeds in that has transformed the area to an ideal the north. During the same season, hun- place for many birds and other life forms. dreds of Yellow Wagtails come here to feed In addition, due to its geographical loca- next to the dyke, most of which belong tion the area is also a migratory route in to the black headed feldegg race. They spring and autumn, making it even more are accompanied by Red-throated Pip- important for birdlife. its, Little Terns, as well as Common Terns which nest in the area. In spring, egrets Approximately 5 km before Pylos you must are all over the place, but there are more head north to reach the village of Gialova Grey Herons and Little Egrets and less of (2). Crossing the village you will find a sign the beautiful and timid Purple Heron. The directing you towards “Gialova Lagoon”. first two can be viewed in open expanses Follow this road and after you leave the of land but to spot a Purple Heron you last camping site behind you, you will see have to scan the reedbeds. Another large a large building. This is an old Pump Sta- egret is the Great Egret, mostly a winter tion (3) which was recently (2008) restored species, but often observed in Gialova into an Information Centre and it is now in in summer. During the same season, you operation under the responsibility of HOS. will also see the Little Bittern which nests Here you can ask for information concern- here. Southeast of the area there are wet ing the wetland, pick up brochures and meadows (6) in winter and early spring, leaflets, and book a tour with one of the ideal sites for passage Glossy Ibises and experienced guides of the Information Squacco Herons. Here you will also find an Centre. Here is also the beginning of a abandoned large building where the Little dyke (4) which can be crossed on foot or Owl and the Barn Owl nest. You can’t enter by bicycle. Access to cars is forbidden. as it is private property, but if you are here at dusk you will most probably see them. Walking or cycling along the dyke will of- Exploring the dyke of Gialova will also re- fer you beautiful views of herons, which ward you with views of a small bird of the prefer the area in winter. The mild climate wetlands found here in large populations. of southern Peloponnese allows many in- It is the Fan-tailed Warbler, which flies low dividuals from various species to overwin- among vegetation. At the mudflats, you ter. The dyke almost divides the lagoon in can spot, just next to you, Kentish Plovers, two and ends at the sea, next to the well- Little Ringed Plovers and Avocets, but also known and stunningly beautiful beach of the Black-winged Stilt which breeds here. Voïdokoilia which has been designated as Marsh Harriers are common sights here an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (5). as well, with their characteristic light low Spring and winter are the best seasons to flight when looking for food. 172 visit this place as it brims with many differ- Winter is also an interesting season for ME TO I Spring and winter are the best months. Spring is very good for passage T V T I S

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B tracting many birds of prey. Charadrius alexandrinus Charadrius Plover Kentish birdwatchers at Gialova. Every year, Os- Other interesting fauna/fl ora preys overwinter at the lagoon - one of The area is also renowned for the African the few sites they occur in Greece. Many Chameleon Chamaeleo africanus that ducks crowd the waters of the lagoon to breeds here. HOS monitors and protects fi nd food, while the Imperial Eagle and this species with special care. This is the the Bittern also visit the area. Mute Swans only site in Europe where this sensitive and Greater Flamingos are almost always reptile occurs, and raising the awareness around, while Cormorants often rest at the of locals and visitors is very important for oblong islet of Sfaktiria (7), which shelters its survival. Moreover, the area next to the Navarino bay. lagoon of Gialova is a breeding site of the One of the most spectacular views you Loggerhead Sea Turtle, another species can get at the wetland is that of Cormo- for which Greece has great responsibility. rants fi shing from one canal to another. Fish often hop outside the water and her- Large mammals are rare to the area, but ons pack the shores waiting for them. It is there are many species of small mammals also stunning at dawn, when the wetland and bats. is covered with fog until the morning sun clears the sky. You can go to the island of Sfaktiria by boat from the port of Pylos. A journey there could reward you with views of the Peregrine Falcon.

Alternatively, you can follow the path lo- cated at the foot of the hill of Palaiokastro. And if you feel like climbing up the hill, EXTRAS you will enjoy the most beautiful views of At the end of the tour, on the main the lagoon! From this spot (8) you can ob- dyke you will see signs that lead you serve with a telescope or binoculars all the to the wooden trail created by HOS. bird species that visit the area. It also is the This “Nature Trail” is a beautiful territory of the local Eagle Owl pair. route encircling the area to reveal During migration, rare species have been some of the secrets of the fl ora but recorded, such as the Crane, the Dotterel, also to off er you a closer look even the Velvet Scoter off the coast! of the wetland and its inhabitants. 173 Schinias marsh The landscape of Schinias is one of the most beautiful in the Prefecture of Attica. A unique, 3 km long, coastal forest tract, consisting of Aleppo and Stone Pines, Phoenician Junipers, Kermes Oaks and Mastic Trees. The marsh at the north of the area, the remnant sand dunes, the rocky peninsula of Kynosoura and the pine forest are the solid example of how nature resists human intervention. If you visit the area, before or after summer, you will feel the urge to walk around and explore it!

TION C ST E A This is a NATURA 2000 site, a National Park and an Important Bird Area

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174 Remiz pendulinus Tit Penduline 175 ME TO I T V T I Highlight Species S

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T E Winter Summer Passage B visitor visitor Resident migrant Great Spotted Eagle • Osprey • Long-legged Buzzard • Little Owl • Chukar • Black-winged Stilt • Blue Rock Thrush • Black-eared Wheatear • Penduline Tit • Short-toed Treecreeper • Cirl Bunting • GE O T T The marsh of Schinias is located in eastern Attica, at the bay of Maratho- T H

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E H most next to the wetland of Schinias. The area is clearly signposted and you will know that you are there as soon as you see the Olympic Rowing & Canoeing Centre.

OUTE R More than 240 bird species At the pine forest (3), spring brings Hoo- have been recorded so far at poes, Yellow Wagtails, Wood Larks and Schinias, and this has made Goldfinches, while in winter you will find the area one of the most popular for bird- Chaffinches, Short-toed Treecreepers, watchers. Some of the species are breed- White Wagtails and Robins. ing, others are just passage migrants, and some simply overwinter here, such as the At the surrounding hills (4) Chukars are well known Great Spotted Eagle that has frequent sights. If you want to view a Lit- become regular around the old military tle Owl, Schinias is the best place. Many area (1) over the past few years. Among other species have been observed in mi- waders and ducks, the most important is gration: Glossy Ibises, Spoonbills, Gold- the Ferruginous Duck which breeds in the en Orioles, Quails, Collared Pratincoles, densely vegetated canals in the northern Woodcocks, Black-tailed Godwits, Ruffs, part of this area. Herons, Black-winged Snipes, Redstarts, Red-throated Pipits Stilts, plovers, sandpipers and stints crowd and many shrikes, among which the very the marshes every spring, while the Long- rare Isabeline Shrike, as well as the Citrine legged Buzzard has its territory on the Wagtail that has been reported quite a northern hills (2), the Penduline Tit hangs few times in the last few years! The dry, its nest next to the observation hide, and rocky hills around the marsh (5) may yield hundreds of overwintering Reed Buntings Black-eared Wheatears, Rock Nuthatches, crowd the reedbeds. During harsh winters Cretzschmar’s Buntings and Black-headed Mute Swans visit the area and Water Rails Buntings. are present just next to the taverns by the 176 beach... The Olympic Rowing & Canoeing Centre ME TO I Spring is defi nitely the best season for birdwatching. Apart from the T V T I S

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B which, like rails and snipes, are very hard to see. Autumn is also very pro- ductive, as long as the marsh is not dry. Winter is a good season for wa- terfowl and birds of prey. In summer, it is better to get to the beach and go for a swim! Cisticola juncidis Cisticola Warbler Fan-tailed (6) is also worth your attention, as apart Other interesting fauna/fl ora from the resident Coots and Little Grebes, A very rare and Critically Endangered it hosts many ducks in winter. freshwater fi sh, the Attica Minnow Pelas- gus marathonicus, is still found in Schinias. As for birds of prey (apart from the Long- Several reptiles and amphibians are also legged Buzzard and the Great Spotted found in good numbers. There is also a Eagle), the Common Buzzard, the Kestrel, great variety of butterfl ies and orchids, es- the Hobby, the Sparrowhawk, the Gos- pecially in the surrounding hills. hawk, the Marsh Harrier, the Hen Harrier, the Short-toed Eagle and the Red-footed Falcon are the main species recorded so far, along with Lesser Kestrels and Os- preys! The birdwatching towers of the wetland off er vantage viewpoints and you can discover many species even with the EXTRAS naked eye. Of course, a good pair of binoculars or, The Olympic Rowing Center is very even better, a fi eld scope will help you interesting in winter, as the bulk scan the area more easily and much more of wintering waterfowl is seen there, effi ciently. You should explore the wetland while many diff erent terns on foot in order not to disturb the birds, can be seen during migration. especially during the breeding period. 177 Mount Ymittos One of the places birdwatchers certainly must visit in Athens is Mount Ymittos. Only a few kilometres from the centre of the city, even with a traffi c jam it’s no more than a 20 minute drive from Syntagma square! It may not look very promising, but during certain seasons it will make your jaw drop.

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178 rueppelli Sylvia Warbler Rüppell’s 179 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Rüppell’s Warbler • Subalpine Warbler • Eastern Orphean Warbler • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Red-breasted Flycatcher • Sombre Tit • Blue Rock Thrush • Rock Nuthatch • Black-eared Wheatear • Cuckoo • Chukar • Long-legged Buzzard • Peregrine Falcon •

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180 Hoopoe Sylvia melanocephala Sylvia Sardinian Warbler Warbler Sardinian GE O T T To reach the most interesting areas of Mount Ymittos, you have to take T H

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OUTE R Ymittos has an altitude of a in Greece, which makes local birdwatchers little more than 1,000 m and run up the mountain for it! its slopes, despite being heav- ily affected by the frequent wildfires, are The same road that leads to the monas- still covered with conifer woodland and tery continues up to the peak of Ymittos. maquis scrub. It is also renowned for its or- The higher you go the more interesting chids and other wild flowers. At the foot of species you will find. The next monastery, the mountain is the monastery of Kaisari- Moni Asteriou (2), is a must for a stop. Here ani (1). This is the first site a birdwatcher you will have the chance to hear and view should explore. In spring and summer, the Short-toed Treecreeper and the Gold- you can look for the Sombre Tit. Its more crest at the cypresses just by its entrance. common relatives, the Great Tit and the Keep driving up until the top of the tree- Coal Tit are also present. In the same area, line, which is a good spot to view raptors you will find flycatchers, including the on the horizon. The Common Buzzard and Spotted Flycatcher, along with other spe- the Long-legged Buzzard are frequently cies depending on the season, such as the observed here. Redstart, the Black Redstart, the Sardinian Warbler, the Robin and the Magpie. Most After approximately a kilometre, at an of them are common but, during migra- open left turn (3), you will see a small tion, in the olive grove next to the mon- roadside shrine on your right, and on your astery you can also see the Red-breasted left, a bare slope going up the hill. Here, Flycatcher, a really difficult species to spot every spring, you can enjoy the song of 181 ME TO the Eastern Orphean Warbler and have radar; you will spot Barn Swallows, House I T V T I

Cretzschmar’s Buntings and Subalpine Martins, Swifts, Pallid Swifts and Alpine S

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Warblers just by your side; and higher up Swifts flying in search of insects. In mid- B on the rocks you will spot the Blue Rock- spring, many gulls gather around for the thrush, resident of the area. When migra- same reason. tion is at its peak, you might as well spot Black-headed Buntings. Subalpine War- There is an equally interesting route at the blers and Cretzschmar’s Buntings will keep other side of the mountain, from where you company on the dirt road to your you see the inland area called Mesoge- right (4), at a steep left turn 400 m further ia. Set off from Paiania or Koropi, drive up. But before you turn left, scan the low through Lakka Chalidous up to the chapel rocks (5) to your left. The Rock Nuthatch of Agios Efstathios and you will reach the is almost always there. Moving slowly on area of Sesi in Koropi. At this point, head the dirt road, in April or May listen care- south (7) to have the opportunity to ob- fully for sounds coming from the opposite serve all the typical Mediterranean species slopes. You are almost certain to hear the mentioned above, as well as Wood Larks sweet, monotonous call of the Cuckoo or that stay here all year round and nest. the characteristic song of the Hoopoe. This is another good site to look for rap- In spring, the area is full of songbirds; an- tors. A pair of Short-toed Eagles often flies other common species here is the Nightjar around the area, and the female is almost which is hard to spot at daylight and you white! Here you will definitely view the have to wait till dusk. The area is also very suspended flight of the Kestrel while prey- good for birds of prey like Long-legged ing on rodents or reptiles on the slopes. Buzzards and Short-toed Eagles, which forage in the open area. Finally, it is worth A few meters further on the same dirt road, reaching the pass of Stavros (8) (at the the Black-eared Wheatear nests each year. end of the dirt road) where there are good From here you can see Athens stretching views both of Athens and Mesogeia and if down to the sea and admire the Acropo- you are careful you might spot Peregrine lis crowned by the Parthenon. Keep going Falcons that nest there, flying above you! on the dirt road which now starts to go downhill (6) - watch out for Chukars. Another interesting route for birdwatch- ers is the trail that starts from the monas- Here, you will most probably hear and tery of Agios Ioannis Kareas (9) and ends then spot a bird which is a prime target for at Ilioupoli. The forested part is a refuge birdwatchers: the beautiful Rüppell’s War- for passerines, such as Chaffinches, Serins, bler that nests every year on the slopes of Great Tits, Coal Tits, Short-toed Treecreep- Ymittos. Now go back to the asphalt road ers and Firecrests, while in winter the place and turn left. On your right hand side you is full of Robins, Blackcaps and Chiffchaffs. will see a small bare area, just next to the Walking along the forest road that leads to road, with a lone tree. Under this tree, Ilioupoli, and overcoming the initial disap- animal lovers leave food for stray dogs. pointment of being surrounded by a burnt Overwintering birds are aware of that! In forest (in 1998, a disastrous fire burnt more winter, especially when it is really cold or than 600 hectares), you will eventually no- snowing, you will observe all the bird spe- tice that natural regeneration is underway: cies that visit this mountain: Chaffinches, the Kermes Oaks have sprouted and small Robins, Magpies and Dunnocks will fly just pine trees are now covering the slopes. a few meters away from your car window. In summer, head towards the peak, where The best spot for birdwatching though, 182 there is a “forest” of antennas and an Army are the rocks around the cave of Bimpesis ME TO I Spring is the best season to visit Ymittos. Late April is the best period to T V T I S

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E B Cretzschmar’s Bunting Emberiza caesia Bunting Cretzschmar’s and above the stream of Sarina. Almost all the breeding species that prefer Mediter- ranean maquis scrub occur here: Sardinian Warblers, Subalpine Warblers, Rüppell’s Warblers, Eastern Orphean War- EXTRAS blers, Cretzschmar’s Buntings as well as Around the monastery of Kaisariani, Sombre Tits and Black-eared Wheatears. a great number of butterfl y species Little Owls, Chukars, Rock-nuthatches occur in spring and summer. and Blue Rock-thrushes are also common, while this is the best spot in Ymittos for All you have to do is walk along spring passage migrants. the fl ower beds.

Other interesting fauna/fl ora Mount Ymittos is renowned for its great variety in fl owers; orchids, fritillaries, cro- cuses, centaureas and many more species, including several endemics. Foxes, hedgehogs, badgers, , hares, as well as two of the three terrestrial tortoises of Greece also occur in Ymittos, along with several bats and reptiles. 183 Kythira and Antikythira islands The geographical location of the islands of Kythira and An- tikythira is of high importance for migratory birds. Every au- tumn, thousands of migrants move towards Africa, crossing the , Greece, Kythira-Antikythira and Crete before they reach their fi nal destination. This also happens in spring, but towards the opposite direction since they fl y to the north. Antikythira, located in the middle of a very hostile sea route, is a very important stopover for birds during migration.

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184 vespertinus Falco Falcon Red-footed 185 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Cory’s Shearwater • Yelkouan Shearwater • Honey Buzzard • Black Kite • Red Kite • Egyptian Vulture • Griffon Vulture • Short-toed Eagle • • Pallid Harrier • Montagu’s Harrier • Goshawk • Levant Sparrowhawk • Long-legged Buzzard • Lesser Spotted Eagle • Steppe Eagle • Imperial Eagle • Bonelli’s Eagle • Booted Eagle • Osprey • Lesser Kestrel • Red-footed Falcon • Hobby • Eleonora’s Falcon • Lanner Falcon • Saker Falcon • Peregrine Falcon • Audouin’s Gull • Corncrake • Blue-cheeked Bee-eater • Bee-eater • Roller • Isabelline Wheatear • Rüppell’s Warbler • Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler • Semi-collared Flycatcher • Golden Oriole • 186 Cretzschmar’s Bunting • 187 Larus audouinii Larus Audouin’s Gull Audouin’s GE O T T Kythira lies south of the Peloponnese, while Antikythira is further south, T H

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W isolated in the sea area between Kythira and Crete. There is a ferry con-

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OUTE R The island of Kythira, apart from Shearwaters and Yelkouan Shearwaters, being important for migratory as well as other interesting species, like birds, is also suitable for many the Audouin’s Gull and the very rare - in breeding species. A mountainous and well Greece - Gannet. Just off the port of Kythi- vegetated island, with lots of cultivated ra (2), there is a known colony of Audou- areas, maquis and phrygana, and smooth in’s Gulls and you can enjoy them in flight as well as rocky shores, Kythira has a rich while drinking your coffee! At the marine biodiversity. More than 230 bird species area between Kythira and Antikythira (a have been recorded - more than half of well known cetaceans’ passage) rare sea- the Greek checklist. The shores, especially birds have also been sighted, such as the in the north and south, are very impor- Storm Petrel, the Arctic Skua and the Po- tant for migrants. At the lighthouse on the marine Skua! north part (1), do not forget to look for the Peregrine Falcon, which nests somewhere On the island, a walk in the fields next around the cliffs. to the airport (3) might offer you close views of harriers, Short-toed Eagles and Your journey to these unique islands starts Red-footed Falcons during migration. The on the boat from Gytheio or Neapoli. beaches of Palaiopoli (4) and Avlemonas Approaching Kythira, apart from Yellow- (5) are ideal spots for Audouin’s Gulls and 188 legged Gulls you may also see Cory’s Mediterranean Shags. At the western island is small and the distances are short. short. aredistances the and small is island The photographers. nature and watchers volunteers,of bird number large a attract which activities, conservation and toring moni other and ringing bird monitoring, raptor through migration of study the is Leventis Foundation, in 1997. The main aim A.G. the by sponsored and Society logical Ornitho Hellenic the by here established birdwatching site! a The Antikythira Bird Observatory, was as Kythira than famous moreprobably is Antikythira of island The rare species. excellentwith commonviewsboth and of rewarded be will you coast, south the to Avlemonasto Kapsali fromisland, the of part southeastern the to go you if spring, In Bunting. Black-headed the and Cretzschmar’sBunting the for site nesting a also is This area. this visit birdwatchers European north many why reason main the is which Falcon, Lanner the and con Fal Peregrine the Eagle, Short-toed the Myrtidiotissa Panagia of monastery the to next island, the of side (6) , you may see may you , (7) , and , - - - - s h Gle Oil, h Cco, the Cuckoo, the Oriole, Golden the as such species see easily will you spring, In by. (8) excellentan at island vantagepoint the of centre the at located is Observatory The ers. Here you will also find an observatory observatory an find also will you Here ers. lov raptor for especially point, vantage excellent an is there installed, been have Plagara at island, the Western the Olivaceous Warbler!of spot Athighest the and Warbler Greenish the like birds Greece in rare extremely as well the as Owl, Scops like the and Warbler species Olive-tree common so Flycatcher, not Spotted many the like birds mon com of thousands caught have ringers bird the of nets The place. the around all are Flycatcher Red-breasted the even and Flycatcher Collared the Flycatcher, Pied the Warbler, Garden the as such species where bird ringing takes place, hard to see down, at thesole olive grove oftheisland, courtyard of the A Observatory! bit further Rock the the and atevenThrush, Wryneck , and the HOS guesthouse is very close very is guesthouse HOS the and , (9) , where antennas where , - - Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus 189 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Ficedula albicollis Ficedula Collared Flycatcher Flycatcher Collared made of stone, with a small artificial lake, In spring, the migration flow is really re- where you can view Eleonora’s Falcons markable. At the peak period every bush coming for a sip of water. At the south- seems to have at least one or two birds ern part of the island there is a location sneaking round. named Karavostasi (10). It is really difficult to reach it without a 4x4 vehicle, but it’s Due to its position, species like the Trum- worth a visit even on foot, as there is one peter Finch or the Blue-cheeked Bee-eater of the largest colonies of Eleonora’s Fal- appear quite frequently. cons worldwide! Here you will also enjoy watching the quarrel between the Pere- The Isabelline Wheatear is a probable, grine Falcon and the Lanner Falcon, which though unexpected, breeder in Anti- also nest at the steep rocks; and you might kythira; on the cliffs, the Blue Rock Thrush as well see the famous local Bonelli’s Eagle is common resident. Other breeding spe- - named Manolis! - looking for one of the cies are the Mediterranean Shag and the numerous Chukars or Wild Rabbits of the Kestrel. island; very frequently it is mobbed by the local pair of Ravens! The islets of and Lagouvardos are nesting sites for Eleonora’s Falcons, The raptor migration in Antikythira in- Cory’s Shearwaters and a pair of Peregrine volves many different species and large Falcons. populations mainly in autumn. During a single period more than 1,800 Honey Some years ago, travelling to Antikythira Buzzards, many harriers as well as 12 Im- was problematic because ships could not perial Eagles were recorded! Ospreys, Le- enter the port in bad weather. Over the vant Sparrowhawks, Booted Eagles, Lesser past few years though, this problem has Spotted Eagles, Hobbies, even Steppe Ea- been resolved. Therefore, there is no rea- gles pass through this small island on their son why a nature lover, and especially a 190 way to the north or south. birdwatcher, should not visit the area! ME TO I Spring and autumn of course! You can witness the incredible spectacle of T V T I S

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E B Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Other interesting fauna/fl ora Antikythira hosts an important fl ora, in- cluding Greek endemic and stenoendemic plants, like the Tulipa goulimyi tulip. There EXTRAS are also many arthropods and a very rich and interesting seabed. The Hellenic Ornithological Society The sea area is well known for cetaceans, every spring and autumn runs including Sperm Whales. A new species a Volunteer Programme in the Anti- of lizard, the Pori Wall Lizard Podarcis lev- kythira Bird Observatory endis was discovered in the rocky islets of that includes bird ringing and Lagouvardos and Pori (also known as Pra- raptor monitoring. sonisi).

191 South and East Limnos Island Limnos has been overshadowed by neighbouring Lesvos for years when it comes to birdwatching visitors. Nevertheless, the eastern and north-eastern parts of the island are compa- rable to Lesvos in species richness during migration.

TION C ST E A All the referred areas are NATURA 2000 sites. Part of the area is a Wildlife

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192 naumanni Falco Kestrel Lesser 193 ME TO I T V T I Highlight Species S

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GE O T T Limnos is located in the NE Aegean and it is connected with Athens by T H

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OUTE R Limnos is completely different tion point for this unique image is the road to Lesvos, being a rather flat that connects Kontopouli with Panagia island. Its highest peak barely (5). In winter, their population increases, exceeds 470 m. Important bird habitats while at the same time you can also see include salt marshes, reedbeds and sand Shelducks, Great Egrets as well as many dunes. The coastal lagoons of Alyki (1) other ducks. and Chortarolimni (2) offer great views of important species to the birdwatcher. A A small wetland is found at the southwest small lake, Asprolimni (3), is found in be- part of the island, close to (6), tween, separated from the sea by a thin where the Ruddy Shelduck is commonly strip of sand dunes. Northwest of Alyki observed even in summer - and the rea- and just off the IBA’s borders is Tigani bay son is that this wetland remains flooded (4), that penetrates deep into the island. when the others dry out. Further south Many waders gather at its edge, in shallow you will find the peninsula of Fakos (7). waters, and you can watch them at close This is a Wildlife Refuge; there are plenty of distances. It is a really promising place! phrygana and shrubs, and during spring and autumn migration it is full of song- The star of the island is the Ruddy Shel- birds and raptors. Here you will definitely duck which nests at the lakes, accompa- spot the Chukar as well as Wild Rabbits, nied by Avocets, many Stone Curlews, which live all over the island anyway. This Black-winged Stilts, Ferruginous Ducks peninsula is a possible site for the Bonelli’s and Fan-tailed Warblers. Large popula- Eagle. tions of Greater Flamingos are also found, the pink sight of which has become the At the eastern part of the island, Lesser 194 trademark of the island. A good observa- Kestrels are quite common at the flat and ME TO I T V T I S

S I Spring is definitely the best season for breeders and passage migrants.

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E B Tadorna ferruginea Tadorna Ruddy Shelduck dry expanses of land as well as above cul- cliffs, especially in the east coast, and the tivated land. They have established their lagoons. Northeast of Chortarolimni, close colonies in the villages of Kontopouli (8), to cape (9), the Greater Sand Plo- Repanidi, Varos and Roussopouli. East of ver has been recorded. These coasts are the airport, there is a wooded area (along also resting and nesting sites for several the Repanidi-Kontopouli road) with sparse seabirds, like the Audouin’s Gull, the Ele- oaks where, during migration, many song- onora’s Falcon, the Mediterranean Shag, birds occur, including the Red-breasted the Cory’s Shearwater and the Yelkouan Flycatcher. Lesser Kestrels are common Shearwater. You will also probably find sights on electricity wires and posts. Rock Doves and Peregrine Falcons.

At the flat expanses of the IBA as well as of Other interesting fauna/flora the rest of the island, passage Red-footed There are very few mammals on the island. Falcons and harriers search for prey. The Wild Rabbits are abundant and found ev- - not so common - Pallid Harrier is a fre- erywhere, especially in the dunes close to quent sight in Limnos during migration, the wetlands. There are also Fallow Deer at along with the Long-legged Buzzard and the castle of Myrina. the Cretzschmar’s Bunting, both breeding The sand dunes on the bay of Keros - Chor- on the island. tarolimni - Alyki constitute a very exten- sive zone, which is unique for the Aegean Limnos has approximately 260 km of area due to the importance of their plant coastline, which is of utmost importance communities and floristic elements, like to birds flying from the north to the south, the Sea Daffodil, but also because they are and vice versa, during migration. Many characterised by a high level of natural- herons, stints and sandpipers rest in sea ness. 195 Lesvos Island One of the most famous birdwatching sites in Greece, the island of Lesvos is a favourite destination for many European tour operators specialising in birdwatching. Its geographical location close to the northeast borders of Greece and on one of the main migration routes, its large size and complex relief have transformed it into a unique place for birdwatching. Hundreds, if not thousands, of ecotourists visit this Aege- an island, especially in spring, in order to enjoy birdwatching. Every year, many rare spe- cies are sighted among common ones – not only because they visit the area, but mainly because there are so many people watching everything that fl ies, lands or takes off !

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196 Oenanthe isabellina Wheatear Isabelline 197 Highlight Species

Summer Passage Winter visitor Resident migrant visitor Ruddy Shelduck • Black Stork • Lesser Kestrel • Red-footed Falcon • Eleonora’s Falcon • Lanner Falcon • Peregrine Falcon • Montagu’s Harrier • Pallid Harrier • Long-legged Buzzard • Bonelli’s Eagle • Short-toed Eagle • Scops Owl • E O G T T Corncrake T H E

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Roller • H Middle Spotted Woodpecker • Masked Shrike • Stone Curlew • Great Snipe • Yelkouan Shearwater • • Rüppell’s Warbler • Subalpine Warbler • Eastern Orphean Warbler • Rock Nuthatch • Rufous Bush Robin • White-throated Robin • Citrine Wagtail • Black-eared Wheatear • Isabelline Wheatear • Krüper’s Nuthatch • Rock Sparrow • Cinereous Bunting • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Black-headed Bunting •

198 Merops apiaster Merops Bee-eater GE O T T Lesvos is easily accessible by boat and plane from Athens and Thessalo- T H

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OUTE R Three are the species that have unless you’ve booked a couple of months made Lesvos popular among in advance. The same applies for the au- birdwatchers: the Cinereous tumn migration, perhaps to a lesser ex- Bunting, the Krüper’s Nuthatch and the tent. Fortunately, the tourist infrastructure White-throated Robin. All three of them of the island is sufficient, so you will cer- have an Asiatic distribution range, Lesvos tainly find somewhere to stay, though it being the only “European” territory to hold might be a bit further away from the main breeding populations. The Cinereous Bun- birdwatching sites. ting and the Krüper’s Nuthatch are regular breeders (the latter being resident to the Skala Kallonis is located on the inlet of island) while the White-throated Robin has the gulf of Kalloni, and even though it is a an irregular pattern of occurence, or the coastal fishing village, geographically it is number of breeding pairs is so small that located virtually at the centre of the island! some years they are simply not noticed… Take a look at the map and you will see Lesvos is, of course, not only an island of why. The village is also located in a unique rarities. Many common species - breeding, landscape for birds, especially waders. It is wintering or passage migrants - have also surrounded by sea, placed between two been recorded here. small rivers, it boasts rich areas with salt marshes and mudflats, and it is surround- Kalloni and Skala Kallonis are the main ar- ed by a saltworks, low hills, arable land eas visited by birdwatchers from late April and olive groves. The whole area hosts to early May. During this season, you will many bird species that are really hard to have a hard time finding accommodation, miss – not only because they fly just by 199 ME TO you and are easy to spot, but also because This pool is, indeed, a very valuable asset I T V T I

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away if you happen to miss them. This is to protect it, as it is. B perhaps the characteristic “advantage/ disadvantage” of the area: too many bird- West to Skala, at a short distance, lies the watchers! The same applies for Skala, the estuary of river Potamia. Between them, village with the hotels hosting most bird- spreads a large area (2) with mudflats watchers. Skala has a small pool (1) teem- where you can’t walk, but if you move ing with birds in spring and autumn. You around calmly and carefully you will see can watch Garganeys, Black-winged Stilts Kentish Plovers, Little Ringed Plovers, and Avocets even from the hotel balco- Stone Curlews and many wagtails, among nies, usually at distances close enough to which the rare Citrine Wagtail, Snipes and take a picture! Black Terns, White-winged many herons. At the valley further north Terns, Common Terns and Little Terns are (3) next to this river, there are olive groves also regular, along with Little Egrets, Grey with breeding Masked Shrikes and Olive- Herons, Purple Herons, Squacco Herons, tree Warblers. East of Skala, and equally Night Herons, Little Bitterns, Glossy Ibises close, is another small river, Tsiknias. Its and many stints and sandpipers. If you embankments are accessible and you can look up in the sky, you will view all the drive almost to its mouth, where Ospreys common species of swallows and martins are commonly seen fishing. In spring, the flying above the pool; above the reedbeds river banks are full of Nightingales and you will find Marsh Harriers, while in dry ar- Eastern Olivaceous Warblers involved in eas Montagu’s Harriers are annual visitors. a singing competition! Bee-eaters, Fan- And you haven’t stepped out from your tailed Warblers and Acrocephalus warblers hotel yet! Usually the birdwatchers go out are all over the place and flocks of various before dawn to observe carefully, forming sparrows are brimming in the bushes of a circle around the lake, hoping to spot a the nearby fields; hundreds of terns and Water Rail or a crake, and then return for gulls rest or fish at the islets formed by the breakfast before real birdwatching begins! river mouth (4). If you move towards the Sitta krueperi

200 Nuthatch Krüper’s ME TO I Definitely spring! It is by far the best season, especially from mid April to T V T I S

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B be seen as well. Emberiza cineracea Cinereous Bunting Bunting Cinereous opposite direction of the river flow and is usually teeming with birds in spring. If drive for approximately 1,000 m, with a bit you opt for the second choice, as soon as of luck you will spot two or three Rufous you turn right look directly at the wires Bush Robins next to a livestock pen, in an- between the electricity poles. There are other singing competition, jerking their always Bee-eaters, but among them you tails upward. Moreover, along the road might spot one of their rare relatives, like from Skala towards Kalloni, at Papiana, the Blue-cheeked Bee-eater; an individual there is a stand of planted tall eucalyp- was sighted in spring 2008 by many bird- tuses. If you see a crowd of people under a watchers along the way from the fields tree, stop to have a look on the Scops Owl. next to Skala Kallonis to the saltworks. With Lesvos is certainly worth more than one the water to your left, keep heading south visit in order to enjoy its rich birdlife! taking a close look at the salt pans where waders gather: stints, sandpipers, Greater Driving west towards Mytilini, a few ki- Flamingos, terns, gulls, Black-winged Stilts lometres after Kalloni is the junction (5) and Avocets are all there. A bit further leading to the beautiful village of Agia south, between the saltworks and the sea Paraskevi. Here you have two options: (6), is a breeding site for Stone Curlews and you either turn left and after a few min- Collared Pratincoles. The Black-winged utes you find yourself sitting at one of the Pratincole has also been recorded here. traditional coffee shops of the village and But you might also spot Red-throated Pip- trying the famous local ouzo, or you turn its and Greater Short-toed Larks. On your right in order to visit the saltworks which way down from the saltworks, if you keep 201 looking carefully at your right side and not Eresos: either drive west towards Sigri or at the water, you might be rewarded, in north towards Antissa. The north route spring, with views of feeding Red-footed is recommended, as it follows a circular Falcons, Black Storks, Montagu’s Harriers route ending at Sigri, passing by the mon- or even Pallid Harriers, with their charac- astery of Ypsilou and the Petrified Forest. teristic butterfly-like flight. This is also a After the first curves you will see some ver- good spot for observing Ruddy Shelducks tical rock formations where you will defi- that often come here to “graze” in small nitely hear the characteristic song of the flocks of eight to ten individuals. However, Cinereous Bunting in spring. If you follow the typical site to observe them is located its voice you will be able to see it as well. a bit further south, along the road towards At a first glance this bird looks colourless Achladeri. Driving along the National Road but a closer look will reveal its beautiful you will come across a junction: a left turn yellow head. Cretzschmar’s Buntings are will take you to Mytilini and a right turn all over the place as well. There are some towards Polychnito. Turn right and af- small bridges on your way and if you stop ter 100-150 m you will see on your left a you will find Rock Sparrows and Crag Mar- large - usually wet - meadow, separated by tins that nest underneath. Just before the short but vertical rocky formations. There junction for Antissa, is a small river on your is a shallow lake (7) behind them, where left; you will recognize it from the Olean- with careful observation you will find Rud- ders at its banks (10). Stop here and stay in dy Shelducks. Further down, to your right, your car; you might see the Masked Shrike you will see a pine forest. A careful walk in and the Rüppell’s Warbler. At the junction, the forest up to Achladeri (8) may reward don’t turn right towards Antissa; take a left you with views of the Krüper’s Nuthatch turn towards Sigri. The Isabelline Wheatear and, possibly, of the Long-eared Owl. Driv- occurs just before and after this turn (11). ing towards Agiasos, you will come across However, if you choose to follow the road the pine forest that also holds Krüper’s towards Antissa, after 500 m is a thin oak Nuthatches among other woodland spe- forest with mature trees on your left. This cies, like Coal Tits, Goldcrests and Long- is one of the sites inhabited by the Middle tailed Tits. The area of mount Olympos is Spotted Woodpecker which often visits also ideal for the Honey Buzzard. the trees just next to the asphalt road. On your left hand side is another site to spot West of Skala Kallonis, is the way to the the Cinereous Bunting. Cinereous Bunting! The first village you will come across when driving west is Driving towards the monastery, keep Parakoila. At the hills to the north side of an eye for raptors. The Golden Eagle has Parakoila (9) it is certain that you will see been sighted here quite a few times, birds Cinereous Buntings and Cretzschmar’s most probably coming from neighbour- Buntings. There are days in spring that ev- ing Turkey. The monastery is located on ery single bush or rock in the area is full a hill with excellent views; during migra- of Cinereous Buntings, Cretzschmar’s Bun- tion you should definitely make an hour’s tings, Corn Buntings as well as Blue Rock stop here. You will easily observe flocks or Thrushes and Rock Nuthatches singing single birds flying north. Finally, continu- non-stop! Further to the west, after you’ve ing your exploration, leave Sigri behind left behind the mountain village of Agras, and go further north to the small chapel the scenery becomes even more rugged of Panagia Faneromeni. This is where the and the species here also include the small torrent of Tapsas flows, and there Black-eared Wheatear, the Wheatear and is a reedbed at its banks. The Great Snipe the Rock Sparrow. often occurs here, but the main reason for 202 There are two options when you reach visiting the area is the rare White-throated Glossy Ibis falcinellus Plegadis Robin that has chosen this spot in the past (12). Rufous Bush Robins and Rollers also occur in spring. A pair of Long-legged Buz- zards nests in the area while the coast is ideal for watching Mediterranean Shags EXTRAS and Yelkouan Shearwaters. The Storm Petrel, the smallest seabird of Greece, has been recorded off the west coast of Lesvos. Other interesting fauna/fl ora Finding it is a real challenge! Lesvos is a botanist’s paradise, with more than 1,500 plant species recorded, includ- ing many endemics. Himantoglossum comperianum orchid is one of the rarest orchids in Greece. This island is also known to host a great insect variety, especially butterfl ies; many nature lovers visit Lesvos just for them.

Other fauna is also interesting; due to the very close distance to Asia Minor, it includes both European and Asiatic spe- cies. Persian Squirrel and Ottoman Viper are characteristic examples, attracting many tourists who want to see them. 13 terrestrial mammals and 11 bat species, 5 amphibians and 21 reptiles have been re- corded so far.

203 Naxos Island and Mikres Kyklades island complex Naxos is the largest island of the Cyclades Archipelago. It is also the highest. Mount Zas has an altitude of more than 1,000 m. The cliff s, gorges and the scattered oak stands of the island of Naxos are home to a variety of rare birds of prey, like the Griff on Vulture. The pass between the mountains of Zas and Fanari is the most reliable site to spot them. The Long-legged Buzzard can also be seen here easily, as well as in the rest of the island. The adjacent island group of Mikres Kyklades, south of Naxos, is also of great ornithological interest.

TION C ST Large part of Naxos and the majority of the Mikres Kyklades island group E A

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204 eleonorae Falco Falcon Eleonora’s Makares Islets

205 ME TO I T V T I Highlight Species S

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OUTE R Alyki lagoon (1) is the largest Tryfonas is a must, as it is the ideal site for wetland of the Cyclades and raptors and montane birds. A few kilome- is located just next to the air- tres away you will find the spring of Arion, port. Many waders, herons and ducks oc- very close to the cave of Zas, the perfect cur here every year. Watching the Greater location for passerines and especially the Sand Plover has become a tradition, as it Cretzschmar’s Bunting. The south route is recorded annually. Other rare species will lead you to the southernmost wetland have been recorded as well, such as the of Naxos, the marsh of Kalantou (5). Fi- White-headed Duck and the Red-breasted nally, before you return to Alyki, and if you Goose. are here in spring or summer, park by the large olive grove of Tragaia (6) at the cen- From Alyki you can start a lovely bird- tre of the island. Olive-tree Warbler breeds watching tour. Heading northeast, you will and, although very hard to see or hear, reach the hill of Kalogeros (2), close to the you have to make a try! During migration, village of Apollonas. This is a very good site the western side of the island is good for for migrant raptors and small passerines. waders while the eastern is ideal for birds Heading south, you can visit Kavos Stavros of prey. (3), next to the small port of Moutsouna, where birdwatching will reward you with South and southeast of Naxos, at Mikres beautiful views of Eleonora’s Falcons, as Kyklades island group, there are many well as of several seabirds. If you are lucky islands and islets that are very important you might also see the Bonelli’s Eagle. for seabirds as well as for the Eleonora’s Falcon. The largest islands are Irakleia, At the centre of the island, while explor- Schoinousa, , Keros, ing Mount Zas (4) in order to find Griffon and Makares island complex. Most of the 206 Vultures, a stop at the chapel of Agios uninhabited islets are nesting sites for ME TO I T V Spring is, undoubtedly, a very good season for passage migrants and T I S

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T breeding species. Winter is very good for local birds of prey. E B Gyps fulvus Griffon Vulture Vulture Griffon the Eleonora’s Falcon, and some of them Other interesting fauna/flora for the Cory’s Shearwater, the Yelkouan Naxos, apart from its avifauna, hosts many Shearwater and the Mediterranean Shag, interesting plants. Many orchid species species that are not at all accustomed to grow here, as well as some rare plants, the human presence, so access should be such as the Bupleurum aira, a species en- limited to the coast - and never at night. demic to Naxos. At Keros, there are also important archae- Irakleia, despite its small size, hosts over ological findings dating back to the period 600 plant species, with most significant of the Cycladic civilisation, thus access is being the local endemic orchid Ophrys controlled by the Port Authority. But you heracleotica. can still enjoy a tour around these islands by renting a boat with a local captain who The summer winds can be treacherous knows the area. In the marine area, along here, but if you happen to find dolphins, a with the aforementioned species you can Loggerhead Sea Turtle, or even the Medi- also see the Bonelli’s Eagle and the Per- terranean it will definitely be a egrine Falcon. fascinating experience you’ll never forget! Access to the coasts of the inhabited is- lands is easy and the chances to observe these species are high. For instance, Irak- leia is a good site to look for the Bonelli’s Eagle, the one or two pairs of Griffon Vul- tures nesting there, as well as the resident Ravens. 207 Asterousia Mountains, Crete The mountain range of Asterousia is located in South Crete at the Prefecture of Irakleio. Its eastern part, including Mount Kofi nas (1,234 m) is bare and rugged and of great impor- tance to breeding large birds of prey. Furthermore, livestock breeding in the area also provides ample food supply for their survival.

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208 fasciata Eagle Aquila Bonelli’s 209 Highlight Species

Summer visitor Resident Passage migrant Lammergeier • Griffon Vulture • Golden Eagle • Bonelli’s Eagle • Lanner Falcon • Peregrine Falcon • Chough • Chukar • Crag Martin • Alpine Swift • Pallid Swift • Ortolan Bunting • Cretzschmar’s Bunting • Rüppell’s Warbler • Subalpine • Eastern Orphean Warbler • E O G T T T H

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210 Lammergeier Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Pyrrhocorax Chough GE O T T The mountain range of Asterousia can be approached from the village of T H

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OUTE R There are several ways to Thus, as you can imagine, this is a really reach Mount Kofinas. The most good spot to observe birds of prey. Griffon popular approach is from Vultures, Lammergeiers, Ravens, as well as the village of Sternes (1), a few kilome- Golden Eagles, Bonelli’s Eagles and Lanner ters northeast of the mountain. In order Falcons fly above the area quite often. A to reach Sternes from Irakleio, you have territory of a Peregrine Falcon pair is also to pass Archanes and Agios Fokas. From found nearby. Sternes you must head south towards the monastery of Koudouma (2). Halfway you A particularly beautiful route crosses will come across an observation hide, built the small village of Paranymfoi, leaving by the Forestry Service of Irakleio, just op- Sternes behind and heading east, pass- posite a feeding station! The Natural His- ing Agia and reaching Charakas (3). tory Museum of Crete provides food for Turn south and after a few kilometres you raptors there, thus helping the birds live will be at the small village of Paranymfoi and breed successfully, while at the same (4). Cross the village and just before leav- time collecting valuable information by ing it you will find an ascending left turn, observing them. Several shepherds from on which there is a traditional coffee shop the nearby villages also leave some food. to your right. Stop for a Greek coffee, buy 211 ME TO I T V T I S

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E B Apus melba Alpine Swift Alpine some bottles of water for your trip and ask as you will most probably see all the rap- the old man sitting at the table by the door tors that fly around Kofinas. if there are any “skares” (Griffon Vultures), “kokalades” (Lammergeiers) and “vitsiles” The almost bare mountain slopes burst (Golden Eagles) somewhere around. He into life every spring and autumn. The area will certainly have some information to is ideal for breeding Ortolan Buntings, as give you. He might even show you some well as for Cretzschmar’s Buntings and Griffon Vultures if you are there at the right Rüppell’s Warbler in spring. During the time. same season, Swifts, Alpine Swifts and Pallid Swifts are also present. The Sardin- Leaving the village and heading west, ian Warbler is a common resident and the you will pass by the characteristic shape Subalpine Warbler is common in migra- of Kofinas. It looks like an upside down tion. In spring and autumn, look for the basket! On your way, in spring, you will Eastern Orphean Warbler. In spring, its enjoy unique views of barley cultivations song is unique; it can even compete the that can hardly leave a photographer Nightingale! untouched. In windy weather, the wind shakes the barley in waves. At the highest Crete hosts the largest population of Grif- point of the route, you will find yourself fon Vultures in Greece and Asterousia at a spot with Kofinas peak on one side hosts their largest colony - which is the and the valley of Messara on the other. southernmost in Europe. The Lammer- This is the best spot for the Chough. Small geier, which lives and breeds here, is the groups usually fly above your head! In this rarest vulture of our continent. This spe- 212 area you should really “keep your chin up”, cies alone is so charming that birdwatch- ME TO I T V Spring is highly suggested for resident and migrant breeders. In early T I S

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T spring, it is somewhat easier to see the Lammergeier. E B Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Vulture Griffon ers and photographers come here from all over Europe especially for it. Seeing it, however, is quite diffi cult, as there are only a few individuals across the island. Taking a good picture of it is even more diffi cult. EXTRAS The traveller can also visit Other interesting fauna/fl ora Kapetaniana, an abandoned In Asterousia there are 22 endemic plant village that is slowly being restored, species and 9 species of Cretan snails, the equally abandoned village of among which Albinaria terebra that can be Platania inhabited only by a couple, found only in Asterousia. At the coastline, as well as the monasteries sea caves in inaccessible coasts provide of Koudouma, Odigitria and refuge to the Mediterranean Monk Seal. Neptune Grass are found in the sea area Apezanon. The village of Ethia is also around Asterousia. At the southern slopes worth a visit, where many of the old of Kofi nas, cypress and pine woodlands houses have been restored off ering are found, hosting, among other mam- an excellent example of mals, the Cretan Wildcat. how traditional architecture can be preserved.

213 Checklist of the Birds of Greece This is the official Checklist of the Βirds of Greece, including 449 species (latest update 31/12/2012). The list adopts the of the Association of European Records and Rarities Committees (AERC-TAC 2012). By submitting your checklists to the Hellenic Ornithological Society you provide us with valuable data for common birds as well as rarities. Please send your reports to info@ ornithologiki.gr. Birds indicated in blue are currently included in the List of Rare Birds in Greece. Sightings should be sent to the Hellenic Rarities Committee, using the Unusual Record Support form found at www.ornithologiki.gr/en/rarities.

COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME Mute Swan Cygnus olor Tundra Swan Cygnus columbianus Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus Bean Goose Anser fabalis Greater White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons Lesser White-fronted Goose Anser erythropus Greylag Goose Anser anser Anser caerulescens Snow Goose (Chen caerulescens) Brent Goose Branta bernicla Red-breasted Goose Branta ruficollis Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea (Common) Shelduck Tadorna tadorna (Eurasian) Wigeon Anas penelope Gadwall Anas strepera (Eurasian) Teal Anas crecca Mallard Anas platyrhynchos (Northern) Pintail Anas acuta Garganey Anas querquedula Blue-winged Teal Anas discors (Northern) Shoveler Anas clypeata Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina (Common) Pochard Aythya ferina Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula (Greater) Scaup Aythya marila (Common) Eider Somateria mollissima Common Name: Common Names according to Svensson et al. (2009). In parentheses, alternative common names. Scientific Name: Scientific Names follow the taxonomic order and nomenclature of Crochet & Joynt (2012). 214 Synonyms according to BirdLife International (2013). Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis Common Scoter Melanitta nigra Velvet Scoter Melanitta fusca (Common) Goldeneye Bucephala clangula Smew Mergellus albellus Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator Goosander (Common Merganser) Mergus merganser White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala Tetrastes bonasia Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia) Black Grouse Tetrao tetrix (Western) Capercaillie Tetrao urogallus Chukar Alectoris chukar Rock Partridge Alectoris graeca Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus Grey Partridge Perdix perdix (Common) Quail Coturnix coturnix (Common) Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Red-throated Loon Gavia stellata Black-throated Loon Gavia arctica Great Northern Loon Gavia immer Little Grebe Τachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena Horned Grebe (Slavonian Grebe) Podiceps auritus Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Cory’s Shearwater Calonectris diomedea Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis Yelkouan Shearwater Puffinus yelkouan Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus (European) Storm Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus (Northern) Gannet Morus bassanus (Great) Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo (European) Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus (Great) Bittern Botaurus stellaris Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 215 (Black-crowned) Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis Little Egret Egretta garzetta Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Egretta alba Great Egret (Casmerodius albus) Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Black Stork Ciconia nigra White Stork Ciconia ciconia Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus (Eurasian) Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus (European) Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Black Kite Milvus migrans Red Kite Milvus milvus White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture) Gypaetus barbatus Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Black Vulture (Cinereous Vulture) Aegypius monachus Short-toed (Snake) Eagle Circaetus gallicus (Western) Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Hen Harrier (Northern Harrier) Circus cyaneus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus (Northern) Goshawk Accipiter gentilis (Eurasian) Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Rough-legged Buzzard Buteo lagopus Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina Great Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis (Eastern) Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca 216 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos Aquila pennata Booted Eagle Checklist of bird species in Greece (Hieraaetus pennatus) Bonelli’s Eagle Aquila fasciata (A. fasciatus) Osprey Pandion haliaetus Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni (Common) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus Amur Falcon Falco amurensis Merlin Falco columbarius (Eurasian) Hobby Falco subbuteo Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Saker Falcon Falco cherrug Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides Water Rail Rallus aquaticus Spotted Crake Porzana porzana Little Crake Porzana parva Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla Corn Crake Crex crex (Common) Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Allen’s Gallinule Porphyrio alleni Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio (Eurasian) Coot Fulica atra (Common) Crane Grus grus Grus virgo Demoiselle Crane (Anthropoides virgo) Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax Houbara Bustard Chlamydotis undulata Great Bustard Otis tarda (Eurasian) Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus (Pied) Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta (Eurasian) Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius (Common) Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius pecuarius 217 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus Charadrius morinellus (Eurasian) Dotterel (Eudromias morinellus) Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva (European) Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus Sociable Lapwing Vanellus gregarius White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus (Northern) Lapwing Vanellus vanellus (Red) Knot Calidris canutus Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis Baird’s Sandpiper Calidris bairdii Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima Dunlin Calidris alpina Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus Buff-breasted Sandpiper Tryngites subruficollis Ruff Philomachus pugnax Jack Snipe Lymnocryptes minimus (Common) Snipe Gallinago gallinago Great Snipe Gallinago media Long-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus scolopaceus (Eurasian) Woodcock Scolopax rusticola Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Slender-billed Curlew Numenius tenuirostris (Eurasian) Curlew Numenius arquata Upland Sandpiper Bartramia longicauda Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius 218 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus (Common) Greenshank Tringa nebularia Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola (Common) Redshank Tringa totanus Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Phalaropus tricolor Wilson’s Phalarope (Steganopus tricolor) Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus Red Phalarope Phalaropus fulicarius Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomarinus Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger) Stercorarius parasiticus Long-tailed Skua (Jaeger) Stercorarius longicaudus Stercorarius skua Great Skua (Catharacta skua) White-eyed Gull Larus leucophthalmus Pallas’s Gull Larus ichthyaetus Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus Laughing Gull Larus atricilla (Common) Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Slender-billed Gull Larus genei Audouin’s Gull Larus audouinii Mew Gull Larus canus Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus European Herring Gull Larus argentatus Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis Armenian Gull Larus armenicus Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides Greater Black-backed Gull Larus marinus (Black-legged) Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla Hydrocoloeus minutus Little Gull (Larus minutus) Gelochelidon nilotica Gull-billed Tern (Sterna nilotica) Hydroprogne caspia Caspian Tern (Sterna caspia) Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Common Tern Sterna hirundo Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea 219 Onychoprion anaethetus Bridled Tern Checklist of bird species in Greece (Sterna anaethetus) Sternula albifrons Little Tern (Sterna albifrons) Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Black Tern Chlidonias niger White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata Pallas’s Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus Rock Dove Columba livia Stock Dove Columba oenas (Common) Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus (Eurasian ) Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto (European) Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Streptopelia senegalensis Laughing Dove (Stigmatopelia senegalensis) Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius (Common) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Barn Owl Tyto alba (Eurasian) Scops Owl Otus scops (Eurasian) Eagle Owl Bubo bubo (Eurasian) Pygmy Owl Glaucidium passerinum Little Owl Athene noctua Tawny Owl Strix aluco Long-eared Owl Asio otus Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus Tengmalm’s Owl (Boreal Owl) Aegolius funereus (European) Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus (Common) Swift Apus apus Pallid Swift Apus pallidus Apus melba Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba) Little Swift Apus affinis White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis (Common) Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis 220 Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus (European) Bee-eater Checklist Meropsof bird apiaster species in Greece (European) Roller Coracias garrulus Hoopoe Upupa epops (Eurasian) Wryneck Jynx torquilla Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus (European) Green Woodpecker Picus viridis Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus Dupont’s Lark Chersophilus duponti Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata White-winged Lark Melanocorypha leucoptera Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis (Greater) Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens Crested Lark Galerida cristata Woodlark Lullula arborea (Eurasian) Skylark Alauda arvensis Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris Sand Martin Riparia riparia Ptyonoprogne rupestris (Eurasian) Crag Martin (Hirundo rupestris) Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica (Common) House Martin Delichon urbicum Cecropis daurica Red-rumped Swallow (Hirundo daurica) Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Eurasian Rock Pipit Anthus petrosus Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 221 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea White Wagtail Motacilla alba Bohemian Waxwing Bombycilla garrulus (White-throated) Dipper Cinclus cinclus (Winter) Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Dunnock Prunella modularis Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris Rufous Bush Robin Cercotrichas galactotes (Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin) (Erythropygia galactotes) (European) Robin Erithacus rubecula Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia (Common) Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Bluethroat Luscinia svecica White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros (Common) Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Moussier’s Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus (European) Stonechat Saxicola rubicola (S. torquatus) Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina (Northern) Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Finsch’s Wheatear Oenanthe finschii Hooded Wheatear Oenanthe monacha White-crowned Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura (Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius White’s Thrush Zoothera dauma Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus (Common) Blackbird Turdus merula Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis (T. ruficollis) Fieldfare Turdus pilaris Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Redwing Turdus iliacus Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 222 Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti Fan-tailed Warbler (Zitting Cisticola) Cisticola juncidis (Common) Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides Iduna caligata Booted Warbler (Hippolais caligata) Iduna opaca Western Olivaceous Warbler (Hippolais opaca) Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida (Hippolais pallida) Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon Aquatic Warbler Acrocephalus paludicola Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris (Eurasian) Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta Marmora’s Warbler Sylvia sarda Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Rüppell’s Warbler Sylvia rueppelli Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca (Common) Whitethroat Sylvia communis Garden Warbler Sylvia borin (Eurasian) Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Phylloscopus nitidus Green Warbler (P. trochiloides) Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis Pallas’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus proregulus Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus Hume’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler Phylloscopus orientalis Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix (Common) Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 223 Willow Warbler Checklist Phylloscopusof bird species trochilus in Greece Goldcrest Regulus regulus Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva Semicollared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis (European) Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca Bearded Reedling (Bearded Tit) Panurus biarmicus Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Marsh Tit Poecile palustris (Parus palustris) Sombre Tit Poecile lugubris (Parus lugubris) Willow Tit Poecile montanus (Parus montanus) Lophophanes cristatus Crested Tit (Parus cristatus) Coal Tit Periparus ater (Parus ater) (Eurasian) Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus (Parus caeruleus) Great Tit Parus major Krüper’s Nuthatch Sitta krueperi (Eurasian) Nuthatch Sitta europaea (Western) Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria (Eurasian) Treecreeper Certhia familiaris Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla (Eurasian) Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus (Eurasian) Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor Southern (Iberian) Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus (Eurasian) Jay Garrulus glandarius (Common) Magpie Pica pica (Spotted) Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus (Red-billed) Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 224 (Western) Jackdaw Corvus monedula Rook Corvus frugilegus Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix (Northern) Raven Corvus corax Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor (Common) Starling Sturnus vulgaris Rose-coloured Starling Pastor roseus (Sturnus roseus) House Sparrow Passer domesticus Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Dead Sea Sparrow Passer moabiticus (Eurasian) Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia (White-winged) Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis (Common) Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Brambling Fringilla montifringilla Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus (European) Serin Serinus serinus (European) Greenfinch Carduelis chloris (European) Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis (Eurasian) Siskin Carduelis spinus (Common) Linnet Carduelis cannabina Common (Red) Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus (Eurasian) Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis Pine Bunting Emberiza leucocephalos Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Cinereous Bunting Emberiza cineracea Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Cretzschmar’s Bunting Emberiza caesia Rustic Bunting Emberiza rustica Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola (Common) Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala Emberiza calandra Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra) 225 Contacts

Dadia - Lefkimi - Soufli Forest Nestos Delta and coastal Management Body lagoons, Nestos Gorge of Dadia - Lefkimi - Soufli forest Management Authority Dadia, 68 400 of Nestos Delta - Vistonida - Ismarida Tel.: (+30) 25540 32202 Porto Lagos, 67 063 Fax: (+30) 25540 32248 Tel.: (+30) 25410 96646 [email protected] Fax: (+30) 25410 96924 www.dadia-np.gr [email protected] www.epamath.gr Dadia Information Centre Dadia, 68 400 Information Center of Nestos Delta Tel.: (+30) 25540 32209 Keramoti, 64 011 Tel.: (+30) 25910 51831 WWF Greece Fax: (+30) 25910 51884 Evros project Dadia 68 400, Soufli Tel. - Fax: (+30) 25540 32210 Rodopi mountains Management Body Forestry Service of Soufli of Rodopi Mountain Range Tel.: (+30) 25540 22656 National Park Mesochori, 66 035 Evros Delta Tel.: (+30) 25240 21030 Fax: (+30) 25240 22165 Evros Delta Management Authority [email protected] Visitor Centre www.fdor.gr Loutra Traianoupolis, 68 100 Evros Tel.: (+30) 25510 61000 Forestry Service of Drama Fax: (+30) 25510 61000 Agiou Konstantinou 1, 66 100 Drama [email protected] Tel.: (+30) 25210 57835 www.evros-delta.gr

Lake Ismarida, Porto Lagos, Lake Kerkini, Mount Beles Lake Vistonida and and Mount Krousia coastal lagoons Lake Kerkini Management Authority Management Authority Information Centre of Lake Kerkini of Nestos Delta - Vistonida - Ismarida Kerkini, 62 055 Kato Poroia Porto Lagos, 67 063 Tel: (+30) 23270 28004 Tel. (+30) 25410 96646 Fax: (+30) 23270 28005 Fax: (+30) 25410 96924 info(@)kerkini.gr [email protected] www.kerkini.gr www.epamath.gr

Information Centre of Lake Vistonida Porto Lagos, 67 063 Tel.: (+30) 25410 96646 226 Fax: (+30) 25410 96924 Gallikos, Axios, Loudias and Tymfi and Smolikas mountains, Aliakmonas rivers’ deltas Valia Calda (Pindos National Alyki Kitrous and Agathoupoli Park) lagoons Management Body Axios - Loudias - Aliakmonas of Pindos National Park Management Authority Asprangeloi, 44 007 Ioannina Chalastra, 57 300 Thessaloniki Tel.: (+30) 26530 22241, Tel: (+30) 2310 794811 (+30) 26530 22245, (+30) 26530 22283 Fax: (+30) 2310 794368 Fax: (+30) 26530 22241 [email protected] [email protected] www.axiosdelta.gr www.pindosnationalpark.gr

Asprangeloi Information Centre Lakes Volvi and Koroneia, Tel: (+30) 26530 22241 Rentina Gorge [email protected] Management Body of Lakes Koroneia and Volvi Metsovo Information Centre Sokrati Tsakali 21, 57 200 Lagkadas Tel: (+30) 26530 22241 Tel.: (+30) 23940 24553 Fax: (+30) 23940 26160 Mavraneoi Information Centre [email protected] Tel: (+30) 24620 87563 www.foreaskv.gr [email protected]

Information Centre of Apollonia Vovousa Information Centre Apollonia, Madytos 57 014 Tel: (+30) 26560 22843, Tel.: (+30) 23930 41004 Fax: 2656022843 Fax: (+30) 23930 41050 [email protected]

Papigko Information Centre Prespa lakes Tel: (+30) 26530 22241 and Varnountas mountains Management Authority Forestry Service of Ioannina of Prespa National Park Mar. Kotopouli 62 (3rd Building) Agios Germanos, 53 077 45 445 Ioannina Tel.: (+30) 23850 51870 Tel.: (+30) 26510 88050 Fax: (+30) 23850 51871 Fax: (+30) 26510 88089 [email protected] [email protected] www.fdedp.gr

Society for the Protection of Prespa Agios Germanos, 530 77 Tel.: (+30) 23850 51211, (+30) 23850 51233 Fax: (+30) 23850 51343 [email protected] www.spp.gr 227 Lake Pamvotida Mesolongi and Aitoliko lagoons and Ioannina city Management Authority Management Body of Lake Pamvotida of Mesolongi Lagoon Central Square of Katsikas Aitoliko, 30 400 45 500 Ioannina Tel. - Fax: (+30) 26320 55094 Tel.: (+30) 26510 21834 [email protected] Fax: (+30) 26510 31867 www.fdlmes.gr [email protected] http://www.lakepamvotis.gr Mount Olympos Forestry Service of Ioannina Management Authority Mar. Kotopouli 62 (3rd Building) of Olympus National Park 45 445 Ioannina Enipeas canyon, PO 37, 60 200 Litochoro Tel.: (+30) 26510 88050 Tel. - Fax: (+30) 23520 83000 Fax: (+30) 26510 88089 [email protected] [email protected] www.olympusfd.gr

Kalamas Delta Reservoirs of former lake Karla, Management Body of Kalamas and Mount Mavrovouni Acherontas Rivers Management Body of the Eirinis & Filias, Technological Institution Eco-development Area of Lake Karla - (TEI) of Igoumenitsa, 46 100 Igoumenitsa Mavrovouni - Kefalovryso - Velestino Tel.: (+30) 26650 21319 Former Municipality of Karla city hall Fax: (+30) 26650 21319 Central Square, 37 500 Stefanovikeio [email protected] Τel. - Fax: (+30) 24250 41403 http://www.kalamas-acherontas.gr [email protected] www.fdkarlas.gr Forestry Service of Thesprotia Tel.: (+30) 26650 23100 Fax: (+30) 26650 28435 Mount Parnassos Parnassos National Park Amvrakikos Gulf Management Body Amfiklia, 35 002 Management Body Tel. - Fax: (+30) 22343 50118 of Amvrakikos Wetlands [email protected] 1 Katsimitrou & Kommenou, 47 100 Arta www.parnassosnp.gr Tel.: (+30) 26810 71919 Fax: (+30) 26810 23593 [email protected] Wetland complex www.amvrakikos.eu of Strofylia and Kotychi Management Body Information Centre of Salaora of Kotychi - Strofylia (Not open to the public all year round. Old National Road of Patra - Pyrgos, Before visiting get in touch with the Man- Lapas, 27 052 agement Authority) Τel.: (+30) 26930 31939, Tel.: (+30) 26810 71919 (+30) 26930 31651 Fax: (+30) 26930 31959 [email protected] 228 Gialova lagoon Exhibition Halls of Natural History Museum of Crete Information Centre of Gialova lagoon Sofokli Venizelou Avenue, Irakleio Tel.: (+30) 27230 23046 Tel: (+30) 2810 282740 [email protected] Fax: (+30) 2810 393636 [email protected] Schinias marsh www.nhmc.uoc.gr Management Body of Schinias - Marathon National Park Olympic Rowing Centre of Schinias, 19 007 Marathon Tel. - Fax: (+30) 22940 99158 Wildlife Hospitals [email protected] Action for Wildlife www.itia.ntua.gr/greenmarathon Thessaloniki Tel: (+30) 6979914852 Kythira and Antikythira islands [email protected] www.drasi-agriazoi.gr Antikythira Bird Observatory Tel.: (+30) 27360 38367 (during spring Aegean Wildlife Hospital “Alkioni” and autumn migration) Island [email protected] Tel: (+30) 22840 22931, www.ornithologiki.gr/en/osa (+30) 6944 741616 [email protected] South and East www.alkioni.gr Limnos Island ANIMA - Association for the Protection Environmental Information Centre and Welfare of Wildlife Kalliopi, 81 401 Kallithea, Athens Tel.: (+30) 22543 50700 Tel: (+30) 210 9510075, (+30) 6972 664675 [email protected] Lesvos Island www.wild-anima.gr/en Environmental Information Centre of Kalloni Hellenic Wildlife Hospital Skala Kallonis, 81 107 Island Tel. - Fax: (+30) 22530 28091 Tel: (+30) 22970 31338, [email protected] (+30) 6979 252 277 [email protected] Asterousia Mountains, Crete www.ekpazp.gr Natural History Museum of Crete University of Crete Knossou Ave., P.O. Box 2208, 71409, Irakleio Crete Tel. - Fax: (+30) 2810 324366

229 230

Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae Bibliography

BirdLife International (2013) The BirdLife checklist of the birds of the world with conserva- tion status and taxonomic sources. Version 6. Downloaded from http://www.birdlife.org/ datazone/userfiles/file/Species/Taxonomy/BirdLife_Checklist_Version_6.zip

Crochet, P. A. & Joynt, G. (2012) AERC list of Western Palearctic birds. December 2012 ver- sion. Available at http://www.aerc.eu/tac.html

Brooks, R. (1998) Birding on the Greek island of Lesvos. Brookside Publishing, Norfolk.

Dudley, S. (2009) A Birdwatching Guide to Lesvos. Arlequin Press (Subbuteo Natural His- tory Books), Shrewsbury.

Gosney, D. (1993) Finding Birds in Greece. Gostours Guides, Sheffield.

Handrinos, G. & Akriotis, T. (1997) The Birds of Greece. Helm Publ., London.

Hellenic Rarities Committee (2013) Annual Report - 2012. Available at: http://rarities.or- nithologiki.gr/gr/eaop/annual_reports.htm

Hill, M. & Langsbury, G. (1987) A field Guide to Photographing birds in Britain and Western Europe. William Collins Sons & Co Ltd, London.

Legakis, A. & Maragou, P. (2009) The Red Data Book of Vertebrates of Greece. Hellenic Zoo- logical Society, Athens.

Marsh, K. (2005) The good bird guide. Helm Publ., London.

Mills, S. (2011) Birdwatching in Northern Greece. Birdwing Books.

Portolou, D., Bourdakis, S., Vlachos, C., Kastritis, T. & Dimalexis, T. (eds.) (2009) Important Bird Areas of Greece. Priority sites for conservation. Hellenic Ornithological Society, Athens. [in greek]

Sterry, P. (2004) Birds of the Mediterranean. Helm Publ., London.

Svensson, L., Grant P. J., Mullarney, K. & Zetterström, D. (2009) Collins Bird Guide. Harper Collins, London.

Van Den Berg, A., Van Der Have, T., Keijl, G. & Mitchell, D. (1997) Birdwatching. Harper Collins, London.

Vlachos, C. Personal observations: 1985-2013.

Welch, H., Rose, L., Moore, D., Oddie, B. & Sigg, H. (1996) Where to watch birds in Turkey, Greece and Cyprus. BirdLife - Hamlyn, London.

Wheatley, N. (2000) Where to watch birds in Europe and Russia. Helm Publ., London. 231 Notes

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