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Whiskey, Whisky... Eine Erfolgsstory Setzt Sich Fort Gold Digging in Ireland and Scotland Whiskey, Whisky... eine Erfolgsstory setzt sich fort. Text und Fotos von Ernst J. Scheiner 200 irland journal XXV, 2+3.14 ij2+314 _S 200-207 _Whisky.pmd 200 25.08.2014, 23:30 Eine Goldgräberstimmung erfasst die Das flüssige Gold kamen Konkurrenz. Der irische Blend Wirtschaft Irlands und Schottlands. Das Taoiseach Enda Kenny eröffnete im ver- Jameson avancierte zum beliebtesten iri- Wasser des Lebens, im Gälischen Uisque gangenen Juli Mayos erste Whiskey- schen Whiskey der Welt. Über 38 Millio- Beatha oder Usquebaugh genannt, Brennerei seit hundert Jahren. Zwanzig nen Liter werden vom Markführer welt- treibt die Gewinnerwartungen der Inves- neue Jobs werden in Lahardane in der weit jährlich abgesetzt. Die Marken Tul- toren in die Höhe. Es herrscht ein Hoch, Nephin Distillery, nördlich von Castlebar lamore D.E.W. und Bushmills nahmen jeder möchte am großen Erfolg des iri- gelegen, entstehen. Nach dem Willen 2013 den zweiten Platz bzw. den drit- schen Whiskeys und seinem schottischen von Jude und Paul Davis wird in ihren ten Platz in der Rangfolge ein. Pendant teilhaben. Gab es in Irland Mit- kupfernen Brennblasen ein getorfter te der 1970-er Jahre nur zwei Brenne- Whiskey gebrannt, so wie das traditio- Die irischen Whiskey-Exporte steigen reistandorte, so werden dort künftig nell in früherer Zeit durchaus einmal in weiterhin im Schnitt zweistellig. Sie er- laut der 2014 neu gegründeten Irish Irland üblich war. Drei bis vier Millio- reichten 2013 ein Volumen von 62 Milli- Whiskey Association – um die fünfzehn nen Euro werden von Investoren in das onen Litern, das entsprach einer Steige- Brennereien einen Whiskey herstellen. Projekt fließen. Ende 2015 soll der ers- rung von 10,1% gegenüber dem Vorjahr. Ähnlich dramatisch sind die Zuwächse te Spirit fließen. Einen Nephin Whiskey Drittgrößter Markt ist derzeit Russland, in Schottland. Zählte die wird es allerdings erst nach seiner vor- nach den USA und Irland. Kaum vorstell- Scottish Whisky Associati- geschriebenen Mindestreifezeit von bar, aber wahr, der weltweite Whiskey- on bis vor wenigen Jahren drei Jahren geben. Export stieg von 2003 bis heute um sa- noch 108 Brennereien, so genhafte 220%. Allerdings kühlte der wird diese Zahl um sieb- Seit Dr. John Teeling 1987 die Ceimici Teo Markt im vergangenen Jahr etwas ab, zehn steigen. Distillery erwarb, verändert sich die iri- weil die Verkäufe in China und Indien sche Whiskey-Welt nachhaltig. Jameson nicht ganz die Erwartungen der Produ- in Midleton und Bushmills in Antrim be- zenten erfüllten. Ballindalloch Distillery, ein neuer Stern geht in der Speyside auf. XXV, 2+3.14 irland journal 201 ij2+314 _S 200-207 _Whisky.pmd 201 25.08.2014, 23:30 Die Whiskey-Renaissance Rock und Whiskey son (Invergordon, Loch Lomond): „Für mich ist Nicht anders erging es dem Blended Whiskey Sla- das eine Herausforderung, irische wie auch schot- Die Cooley Grain Distillery in Riverstown im Coun- ne Castle. Neue Ideen waren daher gefragt. Die tische Brennmethoden umzusetzen, wir werden ty Louth, nördlich von Dublin gelegen, war der Slane Castle Irish Whiskey Ltd. handelte, wollte allerdings vorwiegend einen dreifach gebrann- Grundstein für den Blended Whiskey Kilbeggan. die Familie Conyngham doch ihr lukratives Whis- ten Pot Still Whiskey herstellen. Es ist sehr span- Die Malts kamen von den ‘schottischen’ Pot Stills, key-Geschäft erhalten. Seit 2009 vermarktete sie nend, einen Whiskey von Anfang an zu machen.“ die der Vater der irischen Whisky-Renaissance einen vom Cooley Master Blender Noel Sweeney John Teeling von der stillgelegten nordirischen geschaffenen Blended Whiskey. Jetzt baut sie Craft Distillery Brennerei Comber, südöstlich von Belfast gele- notgedrungen ihre eigene Brennerei und stellt Gleiches verfolgen die Vertreiber des irischen gen, erwarb. Ursprünglich stammten die beiden sich somit nachhaltig auf eigene Füße. Lord Alex Blends Feckin. „Wir geben nicht auf, wir schaffen Brennblasen aus der schottischen Ben Nevis Dis- Mount Charles: „Ende 2015 wird ein dreifach Neues,“ sagte der nordirische Bonder und Distri- tillery in Fort William. Zahlreiche neue Whiskeys gebrannter Spirit aus den Pot Stills fließen. Wir buter Shane Braniff. Sein vor allen Dingen in den füllten die Regale: Clontarf, Greenore, John Lo- werden die von uns angebaute Gerste verarbei- USA sehr erfolgreicher Blend und sein gewürzter cke, Tyrconnell, Connemara. ten und planen sogar eine eigene traditionelle ‘Whiskey’ sollten weiterhin erhältlich sein. Mälzerei.“ Slane Castle selbst wurde durch die Nach dem Verkauf von Cooley an Beam Inc im Band U2 weltweit bekannt, die in dessen Räu- Pläne eines Distillery-Baus hatte der nordirische Dezember 2011 versiegte für viele irischen Bon- men ihr viertes Album The Unforgettable Fire Geschäftsmann bereits 2005 entwickelt als der der die Whiskey-Quelle auf der Halbinsel Cooley. 1984 aufnahm. An den Ufern des Boyne River Feckin erstmals auf den Markt kam. Der akute Beam stoppte 2012 überraschend die Zusammen- spielten die Rolling Stones, Queen, Bob Dylan, Versorgungsengpass führte zu einem schnellen arbeit und kündigte die alten Cooley-Lieferver- Oasis u. a. Größen der Rockkultur. Die eindrucks- Handeln und nahm bereits im Dezember 2012 träge ersatzlos. Cooleys Erfolgsmodell der frühe- vollen Wirtschaftsgebäude aus dem 18. Jahrhun- konkrete Formen an. Schließlich erhielt der Nord- ren Jahre war der Verkauf von Whiskeys an un- dert werden derzeit neu eingedeckt und umge- ire die langersehnte königliche Brennerlaubnis abhängige Bonder und Label-Inhaber. So stellte baut. Die Brenn-Kompetenz kommt mit dem er- Anfang 2014. Seit 130 Jahren war dies die erste Cooley beispielsweise Hausmarken für die Le- fahrenen schottischen Brennmeister Allan Ander- Lizenz, die in Nordirland ausgefertigt wurde. bensmittelketten Tesco, Safeways, Aldi oder Lidl her. Mehr als 30% des Umsatzes erzielte Teeling früher über diese Handelsschiene. Aus heiterem Himmel hatten die neuen Besitzer Beam Inc. – Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark, Laphroaig, Ardmore, Teachers – den Bonders die Verträge fristlos ohne eine Gnadenfrist gekündigt. Die Vertreiber des Michael Collins Blends, die Sidney Frank Importing Company ließ sich ein solch rup- piges Geschäftsgebaren nicht gefallen und ver- klagte Beam Inc. auf 100 Millionen Dollar Scha- denersatz, da sie ohne Gründe, die Lieferverträ- ge beendeten. Vor einem New Yorker Gericht konnte Sidney Frank einen ersten Erfolg in die- sem Rechtsstreit um eine Wiedergutmachung verbuchen, ihrer Klage wurde stattgegeben. Mittlerweile gehört seit diesem Frühjahr Beam Inc dem japanischen Getränkegiganten Suntory. Das Steading: Die Wirtschaftsgebäude aus dem 18. Jahrhundert werden Brennblasen der Slane Castle Distillery beherbergen. 202 irland journal XXV, 2+3.14 ij2+314 _S 200-207 _Whisky.pmd 202 25.08.2014, 23:30 Damit bekommt die in Antrim gelegene Bushmills Der Gründer und Manager der Teeling Whis- Distillery einen neuen ‚Nachbarn’ und verliert key Company Jack Teeling ist stolz über die neue zukünftig ihr Allleinstellungsmerkmal, die einzigs- Entwicklung, haben doch seine Vorfahren bereits te nordirische Whiskey-Brennerei zu sein. 1782 in den Liberties Whisky gebrannt. Gemein- sam mit seinem Bruder Stephen Teeling werden Auf der südöstlich von Belfast gelegenen Ards sie ihre Distillery zu einem neuen touristischen Penisula entstand auf dem Enchiville Estate in Magneten in Dublin entwickeln, wo die Besucher Kircubbin eine neue Distillery. Jetzt sprudelt dort endlich wieder einmal den Malzgeruch bei der im County Down der Gersten-Spirit. Shane Bra- Gärung und bei der Destillation von Whisky le- niff plant eine neue Vielfalt. Seine Kernmarken, bensnah in der Hauptstadt erleben können. Die der Blended Whiskey Feckin und die „gewürz- Teelings hoffen, ab 2015 40 bis 50 Tausend und te“ Variante werden weiter produziert. Vorsorg- danach über 100 000 Besucher in die Brennerei lich hatte Shane Braniff bereits auf dem Estate zu locken. Es ist kein Wunder, dass der irische Seamus O’Hara braut nicht nur vorzügliches Bier. In Gerste anbauen lassen, um diese in einen Single Arbeitsminister Richard Bruton die Investitionen Begenalstown möchte er demnächst Whiskey in den Malt, aber auch in einen Pot Still Whiskey zu ver- am River Barrow gelegenen früheren Minch Maltings von zehn Millionen Euro in die Brennerei und das wandeln. destillieren. Besucherzentrum am New Market Square be- grüßte. Sichern diese doch langfristig neue Ar- an den Ufern des River Barrow zusammen mit beitsplätze an einem Ort, wo es einmal rund 37 dem italienischen Getränkeproduzenten von Tia produzierende Distilleries gab. Maria eine größere Brennerei mit einem Produk- tionsvolumen von 3,6 Millionen Liter Alkohol Vom Bier zum Gerstenbrand bauen, das sind rund 400 000 Fässer voller Whis- Die US-Dollars von Beam machten es möglich. key. Der irische Whisky Tycoon John Teeling ist wieder zurück im Geschäft. Der 68-jährige denkt keines- Dublin und Whiskey wegs an einen Ruhestand: „Ich mag kein Golf, Jack Teelings Nachricht des Baus einer Brennerei mir genügt das Rugby-Spielen mit meinen Freun- in der irischen Metropole erfreute die Touristen- den.“ Der profilierte, unorthodoxe und agile zentrale Failte Ireland. Nach der Schließung von Unternehmer überraschte im August 2013 mit Master Distiller Allan Anderson, Mashman Alan Buck- Jameson & Son und John Power & Son Mitte der dem Kauf der Harp-Brewery in Dundalk. Ihr bis- ley und Lord Alex Mount Charles, das neue Team von 1970ziger Jahre wird Ende 2014 wieder ein Ge- heriger Besitzer Diageo verlegte die Produktion
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