The Four Headwaters Trail Through the St. Gotthard Massif

Home , Airolo, Bedretto, Dammastock, Furka Base Tunnel, Furka Pass, Gotthard Pass

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Grimsel Pass Lake Tiefenbach Tote Andermatt

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Lake Gries Cruina 3 Ti Headwaters cin Bedretto o Villa Airolo of the Ticino All’Acqua Ronco

Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass VillageLucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère INFORMATION ABOUT DAY HIKES4 Stages can also be 3e_500cmyk_LT_feb10Platinum sponsors: 3

2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 House/Hut 4 5 6 STAGES 1- 5 7 done as2 day hikes 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 2 Source of the 4 Source of 1 7 1 4 the Rhine Food Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 EFFORT1 Distance: 85 km/Time:8 about 32 hrs./ GETTING THERE/AWAY Starting and end 5 2000 m 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 Ascent: 6,161 m/Descent: 5,932 m Accommodation 7 points are serviced by buses or trains Dr. Christoph Blocher, 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 8 DIFFICULTYhrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > Continuous, 4/05 > 5/20 > mostly hiking on MAPShrs./min. 1/19 > Switzerland 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15national > map 1:50,000, hrs./min. Bus 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30former > 5/50 > Federal 7/30 > Councilorhrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 > marked trails (SAC rating: T2/T3) No. 5001 “Gotthard.” Excerpts reduced Train START Oberalp Pass 15 percent (see pages 10, 16, 22, 28, 34). Shopping Support from: FINISH Furkapass or Hotel Belvédère INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2015 m 1996 m 1982 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1355 m 1368 m 1757 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Ri di Ri di Piansecco Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Ober- Ober- Gletsch Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Pass Sella Pass Lucendro Pass Cavanna Bedretto Hut SAC Cruina road gesteln wald (steam railway) Pass Belvédère

2500 m 2250 m Source of the 2000 m Source of Headwaters of Headwaters of the Rhine Gotthard-Reuss the Ticino 1750 m the Rhone 1500 m 5 hrs. 20 min. 14.4 km > 5 hrs. 15 min. 12.8 km > 7 hrs. 30 min. 20.6 km > 7 hrs. 19.8 km > 7 hrs.15 min. 17 km > Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5

through the StGottard Massif Four Headwaters Trail Four Headwaters Trail Foundation Headwaters Four by Edited Rhone and Ticino Reuss, Rhine, Rivers the of headwaters to the A hike Table of Contents

5 Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gotthard Massif 7 Off to the headwaters in the Gotthard Massif! 8 From the Oberalp Pass to the Source of the Rhine Stage 1: Oberalp Pass – Lake Toma (Source of the Rhine) – Maighel Pass – Vermigel Hut 14 From the Vermigel Hut to the Gotthard Pass Stage 2: Vermigel Hut – Sella Pass – Piz Giübin – Lake Sella – Gotthard Pass 20 From the Gotthard Pass to the Source of the Reuss Stage 3: Gotthard Pass – Lake Lucendro – Source of the Reuss – Lucendro Pass – Piansecco Hut 26 From the Piansecco Hut to the headwaters of the Ticino All rights reserved Stage 4: Piansecco Hut – Headwaters of © 2012 Four Headwaters Trail Foundation, Altdorf the Ticino – Nufenen Pass – Obergesteln 32 From the Upper Goms to the Source of the Rhone CONTENT MAP AND TRAIL DESCRIPTIONS Stage 5: Obergesteln – Gletsch – Furka Pass – Josef Arnold-Luzzani, Schattdorf Rhone Glacier (source of the Rhone) – Hotel Belvédère 38 Rivers and Paths Shape Development DESIGN AND LAYOUT The Gotthard Region – A cultural overview Armin Furrer, Furrer Graphic Design, Lucerne 52 Rich Diversity of Plants and Animals EDITORIAL AND PRODUCTION A natural history journey in ﬁve stages Edith Jörg, pr-work jörg, Lucerne 60 How Mountains Grow and Recede A ﬁve-stage hike through geological history TRANSLATION Tim Neville, www.timneville.net 70 Reservoirs of Water Power Harnessing water in the St Gotthard Massif PRESS 76 Practical Information Gamma Druck und Verlag AG, Altdorf 79 Appendix, bibliography and credits 1st edition 2012 80 Acknowledgements Four Headwaters Trail through the St Gottard Massif

The Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers all begin in the Gotthard region and that gave Paul Dubacher from Seed- orf the idea for the Four Headwaters Paul Dubacher, Trail. He’s something of a specialist founder and project when it comes to hiking trails and was leader of the Four instrumental, for example, in forming Headwaters Trail routes like the “Swiss Path” around Lake Lucerne and the “Railway Trails” of the Gotthard region. Things to know about the Gotthard In 2009 Dubacher got to work once The hiking guidebook to the Four again. That same year the Four Head- Headwaters Trail includes trail descrip- waters Trail Foundation was founded tions as well as fascinating background with well-known people from the four information on the region’s cultural his- cantons that make up the Gotthard re- tory, flora and fauna, geological phe- gion. The inauguration followed in nomena, climate change and the har- 2012. For more information please visit nessing of water for hydropower. www.vier-quellen-weg.ch. In this way a hiker can make sense of and learn more about the area. The Mountain hiking in five stages best bits of background information The Four Headwaters Trail is a family- will become apparent: How have hu- friendly trek of about 85 km through mans throughout the ages impacted the the alpine country where the Rhine, Gotthard region; why mountains are Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers begin. It never at ease; which plants are worth a is broken up into five segments, each of closer look; and how important is it to which with starting and end points that turn the region’s water into power. are serviced by public transport. Hiking through portions of cantons Uri, Graubünden, Ticino and Valais takes you through unique landscapes and highlights the central role that water has played for man, animals and plants.

4 5 Off to the headwaters!

Water and springs have a magical pow- Hiking lends wings to thoughts er of attraction. Springing discretely Glaciers have held stores of water for from the depths and flowing eventually millennia and have become a symbol into the sea, water lends itself to a for security, hope and confidence. By cross-cultural metaphor for the fate of contrast their disappearance triggers a us all: The lively, happy-go-lucky brook fear of the future, but fear and hardship of youth matures into the wide ship- also foster human ingenuity. From that bearing current of adulthood before has sprung an environmentally friendly fading away into the infinity of the sea. and sustainable art of engineering. Water is a magical power: People Water as a creative power have harnessed its force with mills and Springs are a reflection of the times: In turned it into electricity. Water is a moments of uncertainty the call to re- splendid artist: Its power has formed turn to our roots and where it all began marvelous, often bizarre and savage rings loudly. In times of heady opti- landscapes, as well as fields that nour- mism it’s easy to forget origins and tra- ish people, plants and animals. dition. Springs are places of power, pu- When you head to the four headwa- rity and life. They were even the places ters of the Gotthard massif, maybe where children came from, according keep this thoughts in mind. Over hills to some old folk tales. and down the dales, let yourself sepa- Water has the two faces of Janus: It rate real everyday problems from those can destroy with a flood and spawn life that are imagined. He who wanders with a refreshing rain. Water shortages sifts through his thoughts to find gold spark wars or create laws founded in nuggets of insight here and there. Your peace. The Code of Hammurabi (1850 body isn’t just the better for it. Your BC) includes stipulations over water mind is, too. Now off to the source! rights. Josef Arnold-Luzzani, Schattdorf

6 7 STAGE 1 From the Oberalp Pass to the Source of the Rhine

The ﬁrst stage leads from the Oberalp THE STAGE IN FOUR SECTIONS Pass, past the source of the Rhine at Lake Toma and concludes at the Vermigel Hut. The Maighel Pass marks the highest point of this section of the hike where the idyllic Lake Portgeren invites visitors to linger.

The Matterhorn-Gotthard Railway (MGB) runs to the top of the 2044-meter-high The young Rhine flows toward Tschamut. Oberalp Pass from canton Graubünden from the east or from Andermatt in the Ursern Valley from the west. It’s possible to reach the pass on foot from Göschenen, Andermatt, Sedrun or Tschamut (see map overview, page 1). Get your bearings at the yellow hiking sign and head out on the trail toward Lake Toma. The source of the Rhine at Lake Toma. A worthy goal – the idyllic Lake Toma. Those who prefer a longer, more sporty variation to reach the lake can INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 1 follow the signs to the Pazolastock EFFORT Distance: 14.5 km/Time: 5 hrs. 20 min./Ascent: 1100m/Descent: 1100 m DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T1/T2). (2740 m). After a short, sloping section 1 START AND FINISH Start at the Oberalp Pass. Finish at the Vermigel Hut. along the pass road a path climbs ROUTE Oberalp Pass (2044 m) – Lake Toma (2345 m) – Maighel Valley – gently across the flanks of the Pazolas- Maighel Pass (2421 m) – Alp Portgeren – Vermigel Hut (2042 m) tock. The imposing wall of the dammed PROVISIONS Maighel and Vermigel SAC huts (during hiking season). Curnera reservoir is visible for a short ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 1 Vermigel Hut, reservations recommended, Tel. 041-887-17-73 or while to the south. At a fork in the trail Lake Urlaun in the Maighel Valley. 062-534-00-35, vermigel@sac-zofingen.ch. Maighel Hut (about halfway through first stage): 2 Reservations: 081-949-15-51, [email protected]. at Trutg (2056 m) a path winds up- GETTING THERE Train or bus to the Oberalp Pass from cantons Graubünden or Uri. wards along a gravel road to the RETURN FOR DAY HIKES Walk to Andermatt from the Vermigel Hut (2.5 hrs.). Train and bus Maighel Hut 6 . The hut, at 2310 meters, connections available in Andermatt. is run by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) MAPS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all five stages). and offers room and board. But to com- See page 10 for map excerpts of stage 1 (reduced 15 percent). plete this section of the hike continue INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch; Tourist Info Uri: www.uri.info; to climb southwesterly for about 300 Andermatt Gotthard Tourism: www.andermatt.ch; Graubünden Tourism: www.graubuenden.ch; Leventina Tourism: www.leventinaturismo.ch; Tessin Tourism: www.ticino.ch; meters up some switchbacks through The Vermigel Hut, the first day’s goal. Train and bus connections: www.sbb.ch steep pastures that become increasingly

8 9 FROM THE OBERALP PASS TO THE SOURCE OF THE RHINE STAGE 1

littered with large boulders and natural stone steps. Up here the invasive nois- THE “REAL” SOURCE OF THE RHINE es of civilization – namely motorcycle The source of a river is generally considered traffi c on the nearby pass road – fade to be the highest or farthest point (along the into silence. river) from its mouth. In the high mountains After this fi rst, steep ascent the bril- many nameless streams from various direc- tions all converge in a small lake, which is liant waters of a mountain lake tucked why the word “headwaters” is often used. in a basin at the foot of the Badus begin Lake Toma was dubbed the source of the to gleam: The Lai da Tuma or Lake To- Rhine by Placidus A. Spescha (1752-1833), ma (2345 m), the source of the Rhine 3 . a Benedictine father and a naturalist who made the fi rst ascent of the Badus. If you go 1 The lake’s Rhaeto-Romansh name recalls the lake’s features: it’s located be- by the point farthest from the Rhine’s outlet, the Medelser Rhine would actually be the hind a Tuma or hill – so Lake Hill, if river’s source since it fl ows through both you will. the Cadlimo and Medel valleys and is a good Those who have the time, strength 5 km longer than the Toma Rhine. and will can opt to do an additional 2 loop either along the lake or over the summit on the right to the Badus Hut through a narrow, steep trough down

3 (2503 m) at the foot of the Pazolastock. toward Tschamut through the Plaun A refreshing plunge from a protruding Verdastch. (To read more on the name boulder at the back of the lake into the “Tschamut” and early settlements in the

4 chilly pool is only recommended for valley please see page 42.) Be careful the hardiest of hikers. crossing the stream: snow can last well

6 After taking in a pleasant panoramic into summer here. 5 view of the upper Surselva and Calmot, Following a newly built path that re- behind which loom the Oberalpstock, places the rough descent to the dusty Tödi and other imposing peaks, two road leading to the Maighel Hut, the small steps is all you need to cross the trail leads to a sunny saddle (2358 m) 4 young Anterior Rhine which rumbles above Lake Urlaun. The path then in- Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 8 S TA G E 1 > Distance 14.5 km > Time 5 hrs. 20 min. > Ascent 1100 m > Descent 1100 m 1 2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3 7 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhine 8 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 >

FROM THE OBERALP PASS TO THE SOURCE OF THE RHINE STAGE 1

places peat has formed over the centu- THE WAY OF THE RHINE ries. (For more on the flora and fauna After a long, 1,230-km journey the Rhine see page 53). flows into the North Sea near Rotterdam, At the “Piogn Crap” (roughly trans- Europe’s largest port. Along the way, many lated as “Bridge by the Rock”), behold a tributaries transform the feisty little stream at Lake Toma into a wide river that has become magnificent masterpiece of nature: a the most heavily used waterway in Europe. several-meter-deep gorge, narrow at the At Reichenau/Tamis the Anterior and Hinter top, carved by centuries of water flow- Rhine join together to form the so-called Al- ing down from the Maighel Glacier and pine Rhine, which flows into Lake Constance. the Bornengo Pass. It is so narrow at Shy marmots are always around. From there it becomes the High Rhine until the top that one is almost lured into Basel, with the Aare River flowing into it at Koblenz. After Basel, the river is known as leaping over it. Later the trail crosses the Upper Rhine, which runs to Bingen, Ger- the terminal moraine that the eastern many, and is joined by the Neckar and Main Maighel Glacier left behind after its last rivers along the way. From there the river be- advance around 1850. comes the Middle Rhine until Bonn, a stretch Soon the trail arrives at another fork joined by the Lahn and Mosel rivers that at Plaunca Portgera (2374 m) and climbs flows around the mythical Loreley cliff near St Goarshausen. Finally the wide and placid to the right up to the Maighel Pass Lower Rhine begins after Bonn, flowing (2421 m) 7 , where the idyllic Lake through the north German lowlands and Portgeren twinkles. North American forming the Rhine-Meuse Delta at the Ger- lake trout, brown trout as well as rain- Lake Toma, or Lai da Tuma in Rhaeto-Romansh, at the Scheuchzers cottongrass, base of Piz Badus, means “lake behind the hill.” a common wetland plant. man-Dutch border. It then eases through a bow trout make this a popular place for large natural region to spill into the North Sea anglers. The view spreads to the north near Rotterdam. with the Portgerenstock, to the south- Graubünden” was developed and has the tranquil Unteralp Valley for a good west over the slopes of the Alp Wilden- been used as the official dialect since 2.5 hours to reach Andermatt. Watch for tersects the access road just mentioned matten and up to the Piz Giübin near 2001. On the way from the Oberalp chamois on the eastern slopes of the (2263 m) 5 . A few meters beyond the the Sella Pass. The Maighel Pass marks Pass to the Maighel Pass, one can learn Gafallengrat and the Gurschenstöckli, intersection a trail branches off to the the end of canton Graubünden and the a few words of Sursilvan: plaunca particularly during mornings and eve- right toward Lolen Pass (Pass Tagliola, Rhaeto-Romansh-speaking regions. (slope or flank), piogn (catwalk-like nings. On the right you’ll probably see 2399 m), and a bit further to the south, Traditionally five dialects of Rhaeto- bridges often running along the sides marmots with their shrill whistles. To a spur trail heads toward the manmade Romansh are spoken and written in of cliffs), trutg (mountain path), crap avoid bike and vehicular traffic, you can Curnera reservoir. canton Graubünden of southeast Swit- (rock or crag). cross the Unteralp Reuss near Heu- Stay on the access road that soon zerland: Sursilvan (in the Anterior The route then zig-zags along a path plangg and wander through lonely ends with a well-beaten, often mucky Rhine region), Sutsilvan (in portions of (that’s also an official mountain bike meadows, passing a rest area, to reach path that leads into the wide, flat area the Hinter Rhine region), Surmiran (in trail) over alpine meadows, past ponds the center of Andermatt directly. Save a of the Maighel Valley and its many tad- the Upper Engadine and Al bula val- and down to a bridge over the Unteralp little energy for a visit to the Mariahilf pole-choked ponds. The valley boasts leys), Puter (in the Upper Engadine) Reuss river (1978 m). A short but steep Chapel above the village. After a hard the typical flora and fauna of a wetland and Vallader (in the Lower Engadine). climb brings you to the goal for the winter in 1720 the priest is said to have with cottongrass, sedges and yellow-or- In order to create consistency out of day, the Vermigel Hut (2042 m) 8 . attached a picture of the Virgin Mary to ange blossoming saxifrage. The moors the truly different dialects for bureau- which can sleep 40 people. a tree. The townspeople started to put are green in summer and spring, yel- cratic matters, a standard dialect called DAY HIKING This section can be done as a their faith in this small wayside shrine low and brown in autumn. In a few “Rumantsch Grishun” or “Romansh of day hike by wandering down through and in 1724 build a chapel there.

12 13 STAGE 2 From the Vermigel Hut to the Gotthard Pass

Stage two begins at the Vermigel Hut THE STAGE IN FOUR SECTIONS and concludes on the Gotthard Pass. It wanders over the highest point of the Four Headwater Trail with the summit of Piz Giübin (2776 m), which offers stunning views.

The hike begins at the Zofingen Swiss Alpine Club’s (SAC) Vermigel Hut on the Alp (mountain pasture) “Sunns- View of Giübin from the Vermigel Hut. biel,” (2042 m) which in summer is an ideal starting point for hiking and in winter for snowshoeing and backcoun- try skiing. Today’s goal is to go over the Sella Pass to reach the Gotthard Hos- pice. While this section does not reach any of the four headwaters, it does at- tain the highest point of the five-stage Alpine meadows of Summermatten. trail: Piz Giübin (2776 m) and one of the most impressive view points on the An airy panorama awaits on the summit of Giübin. European divide (see page 17). INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 2 Crossing alpine meadows resplen- EFFORT Distance: 13 km/Time: 5 hrs. 15 min./Ascent: 1050 m/Descent: 1000 m dent with alpine roses and bilberry DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly mountain hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T2/T3). bushes (see page 54), the trail comes to START AND FINISH Start at the Vermigel Hut. Finish at the Gotthard Pass. a junction. Going right on a blue-and- ROUTE Vermigel Hut (2042 m) – verborgene Plangge (2428 m) – Sella Pass (2701 m) – white marked trail leads to the Gemss- Piz Giübin (2776 m) – Lake Sella (2256 m) – Gotthard Pass (2091 m) The trail from Giübin to Lake Sella. PROVISIONS Vermigel Hut (SAC) and on the Gotthard Pass. tock, over the Gafallenlücke to the ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 2 St Gotthard Hospice, Hotel San Gottardo, www.gotthard-hospiz.ch. Glog gentürmli and down to Lake Sella. GETTING THERE To the Vermigel Hut starting point: hike, taxi or private vehicle from Andermatt This section first climbs up to the Zin- railway station (with purchase of a permit from the Ursern Valley Corp.; Tel. +41-(0)41-887-15-39, gelfurtflue pastures (2205 m) 1 and to www.korporation-ursern.ch). a view of the Gemsstock mountain ca- RETURN FOR DAY HIKES Buses service both sides of the Gotthard Pass. ble car station to the northwest, the M APS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all five stages). See page 16 for map excerpt of stage 2 (reduced 15 percent). foothills of the Pizzo Centrale to the INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch; Tourist Info Uri: www.uri.info; southwest and of the broad saddle of Andermatt Gotthard Tourism: www.andermatt.ch; Leventina Tourism: www.leventinaturismo.ch; the Wilden Matten to the southeast. Tessin Tourism: www.ticino.ch; Train and bus connections: www.sbb.ch You can see fossil rock glaciers – a mix The Gotthard Pass with a hotel and museum.

14 15 T_feb10_HGoK_60.jpg

FROM THE VERMIGEL HUT TO THE GOTTHARD PASS STAGE 2

of rock and ice that indicates perma- frost lying beneath (see page 62) – EUROPEAN DIVIDE above these alpine meadows and scree The border between drainage areas of ﬁ elds along the slopes of the Pizza Bar- neighboring river systems is called a divide. barera and its foothills. The European continental divides separate Along the way through the Summer- water that ﬂ ows into the Atlantic Ocean, the North, Baltic, Mediterranean and Black matten pastures and far beyond the

1 seas. On the Four Headwaters Trail hikers verborgene Plangge (2428 m) 2 , doz- reach the Rhine-Po divide at Gotthard-Alpen- ens of unique cairns, some of them kamm. That means rain drops falling from twinkling with crystals, line the trail the same cloud will either ﬂ ow down into 1 (see box page 18). canton Ticino to reach the Po River and the This region is known as a place for Mediterranean or down to the Rhine and the North Sea. The divide runs from the ﬁ nding minerals. Numerous, long-ex- Lukmanier Pass, over the Piz Giübin, the ploited crystal veins close to the trail Pizzo Lucendro, and the Furka and Grimsel line both sides of the Piz Giübin and passes.

2 down to the Sella Pass. If you’re lucky

you might ﬁ nd a few crystal fragments. Bild: 4_300cmyk_L You need a permit to mine for them. From the Sella Pass to the Gotthard The path climbs up to the left from Pass you’ll encounter many stone build- 3 4 a basin that holds snow well into sum- ings, some of which have entrances mer over a rim covered with remark- leading to underground caverns for able blocks of gneiss. It soon comes to holding camouﬂ aged artillery. Between a junction that leads to the Unteralp 1886 and 1920 military fortresses were Pass and the Canaria Valley. Don’t take built in Airolo and Andermatt and on it. The path you want bends a bit high- the Oberalp, Furka and Grimsel passes 5 er up to the right toward the slopes of (see page 49). the Pizzo Prevat and reaches an old With luck you might see ibex and military barracks on the Sella Pass their tremendous horns, especially on (2701 m) 3 after a few more meters. the ridges of the Pizzo Prevat. After a Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5

6 S TA G E 2 > Distance 13 km > Time 5 hrs. 15 min. > Ascent 1050 m > Descent 1000 m

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3

2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 7 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhine 8 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 >

16 17

FROM THE VERMIGEL HUT TO THE GOTTHARD PASS STAGE 2

For millennia the feet of hunters and CAIRNS SHOW THE WAY gatherers have tread upon this moun- The tradition of stacking stones into cairns tain saddle. Excavations in 2006 and is widespread around the world. These 2007 have allowed researchers to piece piles don’t just serve as navigation aids and together settlement civilizations that trail markers in open country but also carry stretch back to the Middle Stone Age magical significance in certain societies. They may summon protective spirits and (ca. 10,000-9,000 BC). The Gotthard Pass keep evil ones at bay. A Norwegian tradition has served as a link between northern states that each passing hiker should set and southern European civilizations. another stone atop the pile for protection The triumvirate of the hospice, the from trolls, those evil creatures in the form Albergo San Gottardo Hotel and the St of dwarves or giants. Even today some Gotthard Museum with its remarkable hikers still feel inexplicably compelled to th repair a damaged or worn cairn or to build hipped roof await you. The 13 -century hospice, with its remarkable architec- a new one. With luck hikers may find ture modeled after a mountain crystal, themselves up close to ibex. serves as a three-star hotel today and al- short climb up to the Piz Giübin (2776 so holds a chapel with foundation walls m) 4 a panoramic view will steal what stemming from the Carolingian era of breath you have left: hundreds of sum- 800-1000 AD (see page 47). mits including the Finsteraarhorn, Ga- The Albergo San Gottardo is located lenstock, Pizzo Centrale, Oberalpstock, directly on the famous “Tremola,” the Gross Düssi, Tödi, Rheinwaldhorn, Piz- pass road with 24 curves that ends in zo Cam po Tencia, Basodino and the Airolo and is something of a monument Blinnenhorn. to Swiss mountain road engineering. An The route down drops over a crest historical Gotthard Post carriage ride with views into the Canaria Valley to- from Andermatt up the pass and then ward Madrano and Airolo. Even from down over the cobblestoned Tremola to far away marmots will sound their Airola can unleash feelings of nostalgia. warning whistles. Below the Pomade Many exhibits in the St Gotthard Muse- Pass the trail swings to the right 5 , and um – formerly a roadhouse, customs View from Giübin toward the Vermigel Hut. A camouflaged Hiking varies between alpine down to the eastern end of Lake Sella station and inn for those traveling by military installation and relic of the Swiss Redoubt. meadows and mountain paths. (2493 m). Don’t take this trail but in- mail carriage – convey the rich, often stead continue forward and down love- dramatic history of the pass. The gla- ly alpine meadows to the Lake Sella cier-polished granite boulders littering The Gotthard Pass is also a weather di- DAY HIKING For those who want to do this dam 6 . The water here joins with that the area hark back to the last Ice Age vide, acting like a backstop to air mass- section as a day hike, start with a from the manmade Lake Lucendro to more than 20,000 years ago. At that time es that flow into the Alps out of the 2.5-hour hike from Andermatt to the flow down toward Airolo and into the the mighty mass of ice stretched out of north or from the Mediterranean Sea to Vermigel Hut. This portion can be done Lucendro pumped-storage facility. The the Ursern Valley north and over Lake the south. That means it can be beauti- via taxi or a private car after paying a trail goes a bit below the dam, parallel Sempacher. Since the glacier in the Urs- ful south of the pass and raining on the fee to the Ursern Valley Corporation in to a paved road and down to the world- ern Valley reached a thickness of more north and vice versa. High winds and Andermatt. For the return trip, postal renowned Gotthard Pass 7 , today’s than 2,600 meters, a portion of it flowed abrupt weather changes are typical buses run to Andermatt and Airolo from goal. south into the Leventina Valley. here. the Gotthard Pass.

18 19 STAGE 3 From the Gotthard Pass to the Source of the Reuss

The third stage begins atop the THE STAGE IN FOUR SECTIONS St Gotthard Pass and takes hikers along the Lucendro reservoir and up and over the Lucendro Pass, the base of which marks the source of the Reuss River. A long hike along the spectacular Bedretto Valley haute route leads to today’s goal, the Piansecco Hut. The Gotthard Pass seen from Lake Lucendro. Leaving the bustle of activity atop the St Gotthard Pass behind, the trail wanders past the Fort Hospiz fortress after a short while. The exterior of the installations and some portions of their inte- rior built in 1893/94, and continually expanded up to 1918, are now a museum today. The trail crosses below the pass From Lake Lucendro to the source of the Reuss. Lucendro reservoir in the Gotthard-Reuss headwaters. road and leads along the imposing Pfeiler kopf Dam that was built between INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 3 1942 and 1945 during the Second World EFFORT Distance: 21.5 km/Time: 7 hrs. 30 min./Ascent: 1500 m/Descent: 1650 m War and measures 68.5-meters high DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly mountain hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T2/T3). with a span of 270 meters along the START AND FINISH Start at the Gotthard Pass. Finish at the Piansecco Hut. top. This is one of many alpine reser- ROUTE Gotthard Pass (2091 m) – Lucendro reservoir – Lucendro Pass (2522 m) – voirs in the Gotthard region that, col- Rosso di Fuori (2126 m) – Bedretto Valley haute route – Piansecco Hut (1982 m). lectively, store about seven percent of PROVISIONS Piansecco Hut. Europe’s freshwater and play an impor- The Bedretto Valley toward the Nufenen Pass. ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 3 Piansecco Hut, reservations recommended: www.capannapiansecco.ch, Tel. +41-(0)79-312-83-86. tant role in energy production (see GETTING THERE Buses service the top of the Gotthard Pass from both sides. page 70). RETURN FOR DAY HIKES Hike to All’Acqua (45 min) or Cruina (1 hr. 30 min.) Here the way heads to the right and for bus connections into canton Ticino and Valais. to the top of the dam wall. Just below M APS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all ﬁve stages). Mottolone 1 a loop swings off to the See page 22 for map excerpt of stage 3 (reduced 15 percent). right and the idyllic Five Lakes Hike INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch; St Gotthard Pass: www.gotthard-hospiz.ch; Upper Goms Tourism: www.obergoms.ch; Tourist Info Uri: www.uri.info; (Lake Orsino, Lake Orsirora, the Vallet- Andermatt Gotthard Tourism: www.andermatt.ch; Leventina Tourism: www.leventinaturismo.ch; ta Lakes and a small, nameless one); it The Piansecco Hut – the stage’s idyllic goal. Tessin Tourism: www.ticino.ch; Train and bus connections: www.sbb.ch runs below the Cascina della Gana al-

20 21 T_feb10_HGoK_60.jpg 1 Bild: 4_300cmyk_L

FROM THE GOTTHARD PASS TO THE SOURCE OF THE REUSS STAGE 3

pine hut and down to the Lucendro reservoir. The cross on the summit of the THE REUSS ROUTE Pizzo Lucendro welcomes hikers mar- The Reuss River is Switzerland’s fourth 1 ching along the lake. At the Alpe di Lu- largest and begins in a small, nameless lake below the Lucendro Pass. The Reuss’s cendro meadow 2 the trail becomes numerous feeder streams (see page 24) increasingly steeper as it climbs below make for abundant water that thunders the Pizzo della Valletta. The top of the through the Schöllenen Gorge. That said, dam is already a good spot from which it’s a bit more docile than it used to be to marvel at the peak’s toothy ridges. since water from the Furka-Reuss River The trail then crosses through a small above Realp has been diverted through a notch and suddenly comes to a glassy tunnel into Lake Göscheneralp. For millennia the raging river gnawed away at the granite 2 little lake at 2480 meters – the source 3 rock of the Uri highlands. The Reuss empties of the Reuss 3 ! Awash in wonderful into Lake Lucerne at Seedorf and then 4 tranquility, this is a ﬁ ne place to take a leaves it again at Lucerne. It loops through break. small, picturesque villages before joining From here the route continues to the Aare River below Windisch. climb to the Lucendro Pass, passing by military installations along the way to the Alp Rosso di Fuori to reach a with the Pizzo Lucendro standing wide gravel road 4 . This is the “sen- guard up and to the right. Moving along tiero alto Bedretto” or Bedretto high the mineral-rich slopes of the Fibbia route, which is not to be confused with 5 (see page 65) the trail comes to a junc- the “Strada Alta Bedretto” or Bedretto tion. A path leads straight ahead and High Road that sits across the valley then upward along the southern foot- and runs from Pescium above Airolo hills of the Fibbia before winding down over various pastures (thus it is some- a series of terraces to the Galleria Ban- times called the “Strada degli Alpi” or chi bus stop. Four Headwaters Trail Road of the Alps) to All’Acqua. Here hikers, however, want to take the steep the entire Bedretto Valley from Airolo yet rather pleasant switchbacks down to the Nufenen Pass spreads out before Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 S TA G E 3 > Distance 21.5 km > Time 7 hrs. 30 min. > Ascent 1500 m > Descent 1650 m 6

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3

2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhine 5 2000 m 1 8 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 2 6 7 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 >

22 23

FROM THE GOTTHARD PASS TO THE SOURCE OF THE REUSS STAGE 3

retto. The trail passes through the Ri di THE EIGHT REUSS SIBLINGS Cavanna, the first big notch 5 . There a The waters of the Furka-Reuss (headwaters path swings off to the right over the Ca- at the base of the Blauberg), Mutten-Reuss vanna Pass through the Witenwasseren (at the base of the Muttenhörner), and the Valley toward Realp. To the left, a steep Witenwasseren-Reuss (on the northern flank of the Pizzo Lucendro) converge just trail drops down to the hamlet of Villa beyond Realp and flow as the Furka-Reuss some 700-vertical meters below. Our to Hospental, where it joins the Gotthard- trail traverses across the slopes of the Reuss and is known as the Reuss from Alpe di Cavanna, above which soars there on. The Reuss family grows in Ander- the craggy ridge of the Ronggergrat A resting area with views. matt with the Unteralp-Reuss before roaring that joins the Pizzo Lucendro with the through the Schöllenen Gorge. The Gö sche- ner-Reuss joins the gang at Göschenen and Witenwasserenstock and Pizzo Pe scio- with the Meien-Reuss flowing in at Wassen ra. Hundreds of sheep graze here. we reach the lucky number seven. A calm At the next notch, the Casina dei little stream known as “the silent Reuss” Sterli, the route crosses the Ri di Bed- appears along an escarpment called the retto. Moments later the gravel road Rynächtflueh and becomes a part of the turns into a pleasant hiking trail that big family near Attinghausen. traverses the Alpe di Pesciora. After a bridge a spur trail leads down to Bed- High over the Bedretto Valley with a view Passages over dried up you with mesmerizing 3000-meter-high retto. Taking this means steep switch- into the Leventina Valley and Airolo. stream beds are common. peaks of cantons Ticino and Valais backs and a real knee pounding. There- chewing the horizon. This wide hiking fore it’s better to continue hiking ho- until reaching the highest tip of the Don’t get your hopes too high once you trail follows a largely flat contour to a rizontally. A notch should suddenly Alpe di Ruino, which gives way to the see the roof of the Piansecco Hut 7 notch, the Ri di Ronco, moving over al- ap pear 6 . Alpe di Rotondo. shimmering through the trees: it takes pine meadows to hilltops with wide ra- Pause at the rest area to gather your The erosion that occurs in this re- nearly another hour to get there. On vines in between that narrow as they strength for the effort ahead. Far below gion is unmistakable with closed paths the south side of the Gotthard, the hik- tumble steeply toward the valley floor. sits the hamlet of Ronco, where the leading to impassable landslides that ing times marked are anything but gen- The pass road runs parallel to the trail sometimes-overgrown exit of the so- force trail builders to construct ever erous. Whether that has anything to do a few hundred meters below it and called “Bedretto Window” is located. more switchbacks. With each severe with the temperament of the Italian- passes by hamlets like Fontana, Ossas- That’s a spur of the Lake Tras Tunnel storm huge mounds of rubble slip speaking Swiss on this side of the pass co, Villa, Bedretto, Ronco and All’Acqua that runs from the middle of the Furka down toward the valley floor. The rock is debatable. At last the trail reaches the as it climbs toward the Nufenen Pass. Base Tunnel to a spot behind Ronco is processed at a gravel plant near the Piansecco Hut after a short climb. Barriers on the slopes high off to the that is supposed to link the Goms in Bedretto Window. A reward for the DAY HIKING For those who want to do this right and an enormous embankment canton Valais with canton Ticino. How- hard hiking awaits at the top with a su- section as a day hike, start at the Got- directly below the Rosso di Dentro are ever, work on the tunnel has been perb view of a dreamy landscape cov- thard Pass, which is serviced by buses evidence of the huge avalanches that stalled since the opening of the Furka ered in larches, spruces and dwarf departing from Andermatt and Airolo. roar down toward the small villages. Base Tunnel in 1982. A wider, more shrubs. Here on the Alpe di Ruino To get back, hike about 45 minutes from The Bedretto Valley is one of the snow- comfortable path has been carved out blueberries and mountain cranberries the Piansecco Hut to All’Acqua in the iest places in all of Switzerland. These of the hillside ahead. Its horseshoe make for a fine snack. This portion of Bedretto Valley, which offers bus con- hamlets, which suffer from depopula- bends lead to a roaring stream. After the hike on the foothills of the Pizzo nections to Airolo and the Nufenen tion, are all lumped together into one crossing the Ri di Ronco a path winds Rotondo offers a wonderful opportuni- Pass. There is also a hiking trail that administrative community called Bed- up more bends along a large slide zone ty to commune with nature. runs from All’Acqua to Airolo.

24 25 STAGE 4 From the Piansecco Hut to the headwaters of the Ticino

The fourth stage leads from the THE STAGE IN FOUR SECTIONS Piansecco Hut to the headwaters of the Ticino below the Nufenen Pass. It continues up and over the pass, the highest point of this section, and through the Ägene Valley toward Ulrichen/Obergesteln.

A wonderful natural water symphony accompanies the first part of this hike, Heading off toward the Nufenen Pass. starting with a gentle climb from the Pi- ansecco Hut (1982 m) to a crossing of a small stream that separates the Alpe Rotondo from the Alpe di Manió: Countless streams burble down the foothills of the Poncione di Cassina Baggio. They gurgle, murmur, ripple, fizz, hiss and join the light hum of in- sects in the most varied of pitches and The Ticino flows into the Bedretto Valley. rhythms. In the Ticino headwaters near the Fülhorn. After gaining hardly 100 meters in elevation, hikers hit an inviting spur INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 4 trail that leads off to the right and to the EFFORT Distance: 20 km/Time: 7 hrs./Ascent: 950 m/Descent: 1600 m idyllic Lake delle Pigne (2278 m). The DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly mountain hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T2/T3). Four Headwaters route doesn’t take this START AND FINISH Start at the Piansecco Hut. Finish in Ulrichen or Obergesteln. excursion, however, and instead stays ROUTE Piansecco Hut (1982 m) – Alpe di Manio – Alpe Cruina – Ticino headwaters – on the mostly flat path that leads over Ladstafel (1925 m) – Kittbrigg (1533 m) – Ulrichen/Obergesteln (1364 m/1351 m). the small Ridel Partus River and to the The Nufenen Pass – highest point of this stage. PROVISIONS Restaurant on Nufenen Pass and a few in Ulrichen/Obergesteln. ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 4 Hotels in Ulrichen/Obergesteln. top of a hill. There the path from the GETTING THERE To the Alpe di Cruina starting point: bus from the Airolo train station. Lake delle Pigne rejoins the route. Atop To the Piansecco Hut: bus to All’Acqua followed by a 1-hr hike to the hut. this small knoll (Manió di Sopra, 2116 RETURN FOR DAY HIKES The Matterhorn-Gotthard railway and buses stop m) 1 you can see a glorious high plain Ulrichen and Obergesteln. teau with wetland habitats and spot M APS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all five stages). fault lines running across the terrain See page 28 for map excerpt of stage 4 (reduced 15 percent). INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch; Upper Goms Tourism: www.obergoms.ch; (see page 65). This relaxing portion of Leventina Tourism: www.leventinaturismo.ch; Tessin Tourism: www.ticino.ch; the hike ends at a hairpin turn in the Arriving in the Goms along the Rhone. Train and bus connections: www.sbb.ch Nufenen Pass road 2 that was built in

26 27 T_feb10_HGoK_60.jpg 1 Bild: 4_300cmyk_L

FROM THE PIANSECCO HUT TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE TICINO STAGE 4

1965. Here the intrusive wail of motor- cycles provides the musical score. THE TICINO ROUTE Below the road the hiking path Many nameless rivulets ﬂ ow out of a large leads down to alpine huts next to the cirque below the Nufenen Pass and join to- Cruina bus stop. The path goes be- gether to form the Ticino. The river then ﬂ ows through the Bedretto, Leventina and Riviera neath the road and there before your valleys and across the Magadino plain to eyes lies a broad hollow that narrows spill into Lake Maggiore. At the southern tip as it climbs toward the Nufenen Pass. A of the lake, at Sesto Calende, the river starts its journey across the Po River plain, where

1 mountain trail swings up and off to the left toward the Capanna Gorno Gries. it continues for 250 km to empty into the Take the trail that heads toward the Po River at Pavia. This large Italian river winds through some of the country’s most pass. Countless little streams, many of pro ductive agricultural and industrial regions, them made of melted snow, ripple through Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto. down from here and the Nufenenstock, It eventually spills into the Adriatic Sea after and most will dry out over the course forming a gigantic delta with seven arms and 2 of the summer. Water gushes briskly superb habitats. Today the delta includes a from a pipe in the pass road’s footing, UNESCO World Heritage Site. having been fed by little streams that emanate from below the Gornerlilücke slope on a nicely laid out path. With pass between the Pizzo Gallina and each bend the view into the Bedretto 3 Pizzo Nero. Shortly before the trail be- Valley opens up a little more. gins to climb more steeply, these name- Near the Nufenen Pass the geology less rivulets ﬂ ow together to form the changes, and with that, the characteris- Ticino River. A pyramid-shaped granite tics of the soil. The rubble becomes ﬁ n- rock here marks its headwaters 3 . er and more slaty (see page 57). Short- The route weaves its way across ly before the pass the terrain levels off many small hills riddled with holes dug somewhat and a sign points toward the

4 by marmots that sound their warning Nufenen Pass 4 . Those wishing to for- whistles as hikers near. It climbs up a tify themselves with a meal at the pass Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 S TA G E 4 > Distance 20 km > Time 7 hrs. > Ascent 950 m > Descent 1600 m

Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro 5 Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3

2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 7 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhine 8 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 > 6 28 29

FROM THE PIANSECCO HUT TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE TICINO STAGE 4

rock slabs which are a sign that this THE BURLY BASCHI route – also known as the Via Sbrinz – In Geschinen, below Ulrichen, there is a was once used by pack animals, a fact monument that depicts a man carrying now celebrated annually with a week- a loaded-up pack mule on his back over a long re-enactment hike from Lucerne tree trunk. It commemorates the giant- sized, strong-as-a-bear Weger Baschi to Domodossola complete with horses (1759– 1832), a farmer and pack-train driver and costumes. Sbrinz is actually the from Geschinen who is the subject of name of a very hard cheese that was legendary tales. One recalls how his collea- exported as early as the Late Middle Typical Walser homes are gues once secretly knocked down a huge Ages over the Brünig, Grimsel and common in the Goms. fir tree across a path to see how Baschi Gries passes to Domodossola. The (short for Sebastian) would deal with the obstacle. First he ripped fist-thick branches Walser, an Alemanni ethnic group, also from it to expose its trunk. Then he hoisted used this route to leave the Goms and the entire animal with its load upon his shoul- enter into Pomat (Formazza Valley). ders and climbed over the log. “That’s how Traces of the Walsers’ Germanic dialect it’s done!” he called out to his colleagues are still around today, as well as some who were hidden nearby. Afterwards there of their construction methods and was nothing left for them to do but chop up names for fields (see page 43). the log to clear the way. The pack-animal route leads down The trail crosses the road descending Goms: So many trails, from the Nufenen Pass. so little time. to the Nufenen road and soon hikers restaurant can take this detour but the reach the historical stone bridge built in pushes through a forest of larch and side of the valley above the high route route continues to a saddle beside the 1761 that spans across the Ägene River pine down to an alpine meadow called stands an age-old natural wonder: Per- pass (2440 m). This is the border be- at a place called Ladstafel. The name Kitt, where it crosses the pass road. Af- haps the oldest tree in Switzerland, an tween cantons Ticino and Valais 5 . “Ladstafel” has its roots in German ter moving across a wood bridge hikers approximately 1,500 year old larch. The view is breathtaking: The large words meaning to load, unload and re- reach the first homes of Ulrichen. Deci- Even though its trunk is hollow, the an- and small Blinnenhorn peaks rocket load: This spot was an important cus- sion time: Go left along the river to an- cient specimen still buds as one knowl- over the Gries Glacier. Before them on toms and transfer station with places to other junction if you want to spend the edgeable local attests. The communi- the right the Fülhorn with its steep- spend the night 6 . Pack-train drivers night in Ulrichen (go right at that junc- ties of Ulrichen, Obergesteln and Ober- standing sediments dominates the sky- took breaks here. The legendary Weger tion) or to catch a train (go left at that wald all form part of the Upper Goms, line (see page 60). Straight ahead rises Baschi also certainly passed by here junction) to reach the village of Mün- a single township. a stunning ring of peaks dominated by (see sidebar). ster (see the map overview on page 1). DAY HIKING Hikers seeking to do this sec- the Finsteraarhorn and the Schreck- The journey continues along the Those who want to continue onto tion as a day hike should begin with an horn. After a short descent the trail Ägene to Hosand, where it crosses the Obergesteln 8 should hike into the val- hour-long climb up to the Piansecco reaches a road that leads up to the Nufenen Pass road and leads through ley along the upper Rhone (known Hut from All’Acqua. Alternatively, you Gries Pass and its remarkable dam with gorgeous alpine meadows and thin here as Rotten) River and golf course. can begin it at the Alpe di Cruina. the highest-placed wind turbine in all copses on its way up the narrowing val- Stone houses are everywhere in Ober- All’Acqua and Alpe di Cruina are ser- of Europe. It was inaugurated at the ley. Below Aarenäst it reaches a knoll gesteln, which is unusual for this re- viced by buses that leave from the Airo- end of September 2011. Follow the that offers views into a rugged ravine gion. After a fire on September 2, 1868, lo railway station. At the end of the road up to Lake Gries where you’ll hap- with a solid suspension bridge span- the village was rebuilt, and as the name hike, catch the train on the Matterhorn- pen upon a junction that leads down ning across it. It’s a small thrill to cross “Gesteln” suggests in German, a Ro- Gott hard line that runs toward Goms into the valley, the so-called “Sbrinz this swinging structure above the fro thy man fort once stood on the same spot or Andermatt from Ulrichen and Ober- Trail”. Take this and notice the huge river 7 . Toward the end, the route as the church on the hill. On the far gesteln.

30 31 STAGE 5 From the Upper Goms to the Source of the Rhone

The last stage runs from Obergesteln THE STAGE IN FOUR SECTIONS through Oberwald, Gletsch and Muttbach up to the Furka Pass. A viewpoint above the Rhone Glacier, the source of the Rhone, serves as a climax and conclusion to the journey.

Setting out from Ulrichen or Oberg- esteln on a wide trail along the Rhone (or the Rotten as the river is called in From Oberwald towards the source of the Rhone. the Goms Valley), hikers soon reach Oberwald, a mecca for cross-country skiing in winter. If you’d rather have more time in Gletsch, it’s possible to take a train or a bus across the ﬂats to Oberwald, saving some time for later. The trail leads into a larch forest at a

bridge, the Rottenbrücke. Go left at the Bild: zvg ﬁrst fork and cross under the Matter- Steam train chugging up the Furka Pass. horn-Gotthard railway. The St Nicholas chapel is your next waypoint (1470 m) 1 . The Rhone begins at the Rhone Glacier. The trail is sometimes paved with INFORMATION ABOUT STAGE 5 rocks and leads to another fork. Head EFFORT Distance: 17 km/Time: 7 hrs. 15 min./Ascent: 1600 m/Descent: 650 m. toward a footbridge over the Rotten. DIFFICULTY Continuous, mostly mountain hiking on marked trails (SAC rating T1/T2). From here the route climbs up pas- START AND FINISH Start in Obergesteln. End at the Hotel Belvédère on the Furka Pass. tures. Atop a rise (1557 m) take time to Return via bus back to Oberwald/Andermatt. savor the views over the Goms’ villag- ROUTE Obergesteln (1355 m) – Oberwald (1368 m) – St Nicholas Chapel (1470 m) – Gletsch was once a tourist hub. Gletsch (1757 m) – Muttbach steam train station (2170 m) – Furka Pass (2429 m) – es. Far in the distance rises the icy pyr- Viewpoint above the Hotel Belvédère – Hotel Belvédère (2271 m). amid of the Weisshorn. Hiking into the PROVISIONS Restaurants in Gletsch and on the Furka Pass. valley brings you to a catwalk safe- ACCOMMODATIONS STAGE 5 Hotels on the Furka Pass or in Andermatt. guarded by a cable that zigzags down GETTING THERE Matterhorn-Gotthard train to Obergesteln or by bus. to the frothy Rotten 2 . The route goes RETURN FOR DAY HIKES Buses to and from canton Valais and Uri stop at the Hotel Belvédère. uphill along the stream to the opening M APS Switzerland National Map: 1:50,000 No. 5001 “Gotthard” (good for all ﬁve stages). See page 34 for map excerpt of stage 5 (reduced 15 percent). of a loop tunnel for the steam train. A INFORMATION www.vier-quellen-weg.ch; Upper Goms Tourism: www.obergoms.ch; staircase brings hikers to the pass road Hotel Belvédère (ice cave): www.gletscher.ch; Uri Tourist Info: www.uri.info; which you follow a few meters in the Andermatt Gotthard Tourism: www.andermatt.ch. direction leading out of the valley until The Rhone Glacier: the source of the Rhone.

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FROM THE UPPER GOMS TO THE SOURCE OF THE RHONE STAGE 5

the trail is reached again. It climbs up a THE RHONE ROUTE 5 natural terrace that leads to Gletsch 3 . The Grimsel Road swings to the left The Rhone River ﬂ ows out of a lake of meltwater at the foot of the Rhone Glacier, 6

4 and winds its way up to the top of the pass. It’s worth lingering for a bit in making bold leaps over polished rock as it works its way toward the glacial plain below. Gletsch. The power of water as a me- It courses through canton Valais and eases chanical and spiritual source of energy into Lake Geneva through a delta at Le comes alive with exhibits in the “Water Bou veret. The river exits the lake in Geneva Forum.” An historical watermill and and fl ows toward Lyon, Valence and Avignon visual aids about glacier research are to Arles, where it splits: The Little Rhone located inside the “Blue House” (see empties into the Mediterranean Sea west of Saintes Maries de la Mer, while the Big page 73). A discovery trail familiarizes Rhone hits it west of Fos sur Mer. A park people with the biological diversity of called Camargue lies between these arms. the glacier foreland (see page 58). An historical weather station in the hotel and the train continues to run between garden, an alpine cheese dairy, and a Realp and Oberwald today thanks to hydrometric station are also worth thousands of hours of volunteer work. mentioning. Book a spot early if you’d Passing the “Blue House” the trail like to take a ride on the heritage steam wanders over the fl at glacier fl oor. train. (You can fi nd out more at the Ahead rises a majestic wall of polished 3

2 Furka mountain line steam train infor- rock with snow-white spray falling 1 mation center). This railway is an im- down it and meandering along the val- pressive testament to volunteer labor: ley ﬂ oor. The young Rotten plays a After the Furka Base Tunnel opened in teasing game of hide-and-seek on its 1982 the mountain line was supposed way down from the rim: It disappears to be dismantled. But railway enthusi- between the crags one moment and asts set out to repair the historical cars suddenly pops up again out of a de- and trains and keep them running. pression the next, only to be sucked in- That vision was turned into a reality to a cleft once again. Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 S TA G E 5 > Distance 17 km > Time 7 hrs. 15 min. > Ascent 1600 m > Descent 650 m

2044 m 2345 m 2314 m 2421 m 2042 m 2042 m 2375 m 2701 m 2776 m 2256 m 2091 m 2091 m 2182 m 2522 m 2128 m 2015 m 1996 m 1938 m 1982 m 1982 m 2093 m 2003 m 2440 m 1925 m 1762 m 1533 m 1355 m 1355 m 1368 m 1550 m 1757 m 2170 m 2429 m 2271 m Oberalp Lake Maighel Maighel Vermigel Vermigel Summer- Sella Giübin Lake Gotthard Gotthard Alpe di Lucendro Rosso Ri di Ri di Ri di Piansecco Piansecco Nufenen Alpe di Nufenen Ladstafel Hosand Kittbrigg Ober- Ober- Ober- St Nicholas Gletsch Muttbach Furka Hotel Pass Toma Hut Pass Hut Hut matten Pass Sella Pass Pass Lucendro Pass di Fuori Cavanna Bedretto Ronco Hut SAC Hut SAC road Cruina Pass gesteln gesteln wald chapel (station steam railway) station Pass Belvédère 4 3

2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 2500 m 5 4 5 6 7 2 3 3 4 5 2250 m 5 6 2250 m 6 2250 m 2250 m 2250 m 3 Source of 1 2 Source of the 4 4 1 7 Gotthard-Reuss 1 2 the Rhine 8 5 2000 m 1 2 2000 m 2000 m 2000 m Headwaters of 2000 m 6 7 the Ticino 6 Headwaters of the Rhone 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 1750 m 3 7 2 1 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1500 m km 1 234567 8910 11 12 13 14 15 16 hrs./min. 1/50 > 2/50 > 4/05 > 5/20 > hrs./min. 1/19 > 2/40 > 4/24 > 5/15 > hrs./min. 1/35 > 2/45 > 3/35 > 4/35 > 5/30 > 5/50 > 7/30 > hrs./min. 1/31 > 1/55 > 3/25 > 4/55 > 5/25 > 6/15 > 8 7/00 > hrs./min. 0/40 > 1/20 > 3/05 > 4/45 > 5/45 > 7/15 >

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FROM THE UPPER GOMS TO THE SOURCE OF THE RHONE STAGE 5

From here the route tapers down the ROCKY DESERTS AND PASTURELANDS wide, largely level pastures of the Alp Gletsch became a tourism mecca during Galen below the small Furkahorn to an the second half of the 19th century with the impressive military fort (2408 m) 6 be- Hotel Glacier du Rhône and chapel, which fore heading down a well developed was built by hotelier Josef Seiler on behalf of the Anglican Church. Nature enthusiasts trail over rough terrain strewn with from all over Europe traveled from the Goms many granite boulders. A grand view Valley or over the Furka or Grimsel passes awaits atop a knoll: the end point, high to marvel at and explore this strange glacial over the source of the Rhone! To the landscape. In 1850 a mini Ice Age reached northwest stretches the 10-km long its highpoint and the glacier tongue almost Rhone Glacier that extends along the stretched all the way to the hotel. Engravings In 1850 this was covered in ice. and paintings on display in the “Blue House” impressive Galenstock, Tiefenstock and illustrate this impressively. When the ice Dammastock chain of peaks. retreated, it left behind a dull moraine and The route doesn’t proceed directly rocky wasteland that, with time, developed to the source of the Rhone but takes it into a paradisiacal pastoral landscape. in from high above. The view from a distance gives a far more immersive ex- The route climbs diagonally up to the perience than joining the fray of tour- heritage railway tracks, and if you’re ists below who get out of their vehicles lucky, a packed train will puff by. Gaz- at the Hotel Belvédère and rush into ing across to the far side of the valley an ice cave at the Rhone Glacier. The you can spot fault lines to the left of the route to reach the ice is getting longer The Rhone Glacier serves as a climatic highlight. The historical Hotel Belvédère. Grimsel Pass road (see page 69). Here every year despite an insulation blan- the route crosses over the tracks. Take ket spread across it to slow the glacier’s A particularly striking landscape fea- (risk of rockslides). There’s talk of buil- the path that leads toward the Muttbach mel ting (see page 73). ture can be seen on the other side of ding a small bridge across the spot bridge near Oberalpenstafel. A basin Glaciologists have calculated that by the glacier: A ramrod-straight moraine where water from the Rhone Glacier that stretches up to the Mutt Glacier 2060 half of what remains of today’s left by the glacier’s height (as it stood in spills down the hill to connect both further back spreads out before you. A glacier will be gone. By 2100 it is ex- 1850) extends below the three Gärsten- sides of the glacier bed. tunnel goes under the Furka Pass at a pected to completely disappear. Hikers hörner peaks along the glacier down to All that remains of the journey now train station called Muttbach-Belvédère can see this process from the viewpoint the new “Lake Rhone” and trails off is a short descent to the pass road. Bus- (2413 m) 4 . Here hikers are in for a high over the glacier: A lake of meltwa- near the glacier tongue into a primordi- es stop at the Hotel Belvédère and can sweat-fest as the route climbs up nu- ter with blocks of ice bobbing in it at al landscape with enormous boulders. take you to down to Oberwald or over merous bends across the Rossboden the tongue of the glacier continues to A well developed trail happens to lead the Furka Pass to Andermatt. pastures to the Furka Pass. The reward grow bigger and bigger. The water forc- from Obergesteln over the Grimsel DAY HIKING Those seeking to do this sec- for the effort is an ever-growing view es its way through a narrow crack in Pass to the Nägelisgrätli and the upper tion as a day hike can reach Oberg- into the Goms Valley. Once atop the the rocks and threatens to spill out. foothills of this moraine, where you esteln from Brigg or Andermatt using pass (2429 m) the route crosses the Protective measures are being consid- can get spectacular views over the gla- the Matterhorn-Gotthard Railway. Buses road and climbs for a few minutes up a ered to guard against a sudden flood cier. Another trail across and down the from the Hotel Belvédère on the Furka knoll (2450 m) 5 that affords a mag- should, say, the glacier calve and trig- moraine used earlier leads directly to Pass make the return trip to Obergesteln nificent sight of some of the Valais’ ger a wave of meltwater that could Gletsch over two areas known as Ober- or Andermatt. Another trail, the Ursch- 4000-meter peaks (Weissmies, Dom, come crashing down the pastoral land- saas and Untersaas. This route is no ner haute route, runs from the Hotel Weiss horn). scape with destructive force. longer officially open for safety reasons Belvédère to Andermatt/Göschenen.

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