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BASILICA MelfeseVULTURE and its hinterland

MELFESE erland and its hint a bespoke tour for explorers of beauty

Itineraries and evocative landscapes in secret locations of an area that lies off the beaten track

2 BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and the surrounding area

Credits ©2010 Agenzia di Promozione Territoriale BASILICATA Via del Gallitello, 89 - 85100

Wording and Design Vincenzo Petraglia

Editorial planning and direction Maria Teresa Lotito

Editorial assistance and support Annalisa Romeo

Graphic design and layout Vincenzo Petraglia in collaboration with Xela Art

Image search and selection Maria Teresa Lotito

Photographs Basilicata Tourist Board Archive Basilicata Archaeological Heritage Department Archive

Printed by Antezza Tipografi

Thanks to: The Basilicata Archaeological Heritage Department, all the , Associations, and Proloco organisations which provided the photographic material.

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The Tourist Board publishes the information listed herein for information purposes only. The utmost care has been taken in checking the information provided herein. Printing errors or involuntary omissions excluded.

Last update October 2011 BASILICATA BASILICAVULTURE Vulture Melfese and its hinterland

must-see towns...

Start Laghi di ATELLA GENZANO DI

Castel Lagopesole

MATERA

POTENZA

theitinerary

4 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland In the kingdom of forests and castles

Frederick II was so taken by the region that he chose it as his Eden to indulge his love of falconry. This volcanic region is the home of DOCG wine, of castles and ancient abbeys where over the centuries kings and must-see queens, popes and scholars, Knights Templars towns and brigands have stayed, and the most Melfi Venosa striking thing about is the deep Palazzo San Gervasio green of the immense forests Banzi Acerenza LAGOPESOLE CASTLE Filiano One of the most Atella beautiful and well-known Federician castles in the Rapolla South of . Lavello Montemilone Barile Rionero in Vulture Maschito Ruvo del Monte forest of epic proportions, dotted Aglianico DOCG, the king of Basilicata horse chestnut, maple, and holm Rapone here and there with blue lakes and wines), arable crops, olive groves, and forests that burst into life in autumn in an San Fele Awatercourses interspersed among orchards. This is an aerial view of Vulture explosion of red, yellow, and orange. Ripacandida the huge green expanse, which gradually Melfese in the region's north eastern area, There are pretty lakes nestled in dense Forenza thins out from west to east giving way to a chest of incredible, natural, and artistic vegetation and among ancient Ginestra more gentle, multi-coloured hills laden treasures. Treasures that provide fairy-tale volcanoes such as the dormant Mount with vineyards (the region is home to views of enchanted beech, turkey oak, Vulture (1326 m) around which steep, 5 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland Fortresses, towers, and villages cling to the impregnable heights

wooded slopes stretch across land made highly fertile by prehistoric lava flows. There are also mediaeval villages, prehistoric settlements, and extraordinarily rich archaeological sites as well as castles, monasteries, and fantastic cathedrals cloaked in an air of mystery, completed by stories about legendary figures who contributed to making this corner of Basilicata one of the most fascinating and flourishing parts of the ANCIENT SPLENDOURS region. Kings and queens, popes and hordes of the devout, Above, the city castle that Knights Templars, poets and scholars, princes and musicians as towers above the village well as knights, military commanders, and even brigands who and surrounding area, and Palazzo Pastore with its tower, one of the most found a safe haven in Passionate as he was about the art of interesting in the city. In the footsteps of the Knights Templar MELFI Glimpses of the city the impenetrable falconry, Stupor Mundi found his Eden in The alliance that tied the Templars in 1118) feature with the castle in forests. This is a land of these wooded heaths populated by wild to the Church, knighthood-related which Frederick II battles and conquest, animals and all sorts of birds of prey with Melfi (capital of the symbols, allegories, and enacted the famous of perfect places due about which he wrote his treatise "De Duchy of from crypts with secret rooms. Constitutiones 1059 and seat of various One such example is the to its strategic position Arte Venandi Cum Avibus". The heaths Augustales in 1231. papal councils including Cathedral of Acerenza, controlling links to the were soon studded with masserie regie the council of 1089 that accessed through a small prepared the ground for walled window, which ancient Apuleia and (royal farmsteads), manor houses, and the First Crusade to the has sparked the interest the region of . In fact, trade castles. One of these is Melfi Castle Holy Land) and Venosa of those who are simply was controlled using fortresses perched which was built in Norman times but at the height of their glory curious and those who thanks to and Urban are passionate about the subject and on top of impregnable heights. The extended by Frederick II. It is surely one II, concentrated a series of efforts in who would like the legendary Holy Grail Daunians, Samnites, Romans, of the most majestic of castles with its Vulture Melfese, an obligatory stop for (the cup from which Jesus drank at the Longobards, and the Byzantines, together eight towers that overlook the beautiful the material and spiritual replenishment Last Supper) to be hidden right here. with the Swabians, the Angevins, and the mediaeval village which was made "BLOOD EASTER" of crusaders for the re-conquest of Other orders of knighthood than the The fall of the then prosperous places of Christian worship. The abbeys Knights Templar left traces as they passed Aragonese. All of these people left their impregnable by the imposing town walls, Melfi is to be attributed to the and cathedrals of Melfi, Venosa, Lavello, through, and are brought back to life mark on a land of arcane charm that part of which still stands today. It was in French siege that took place at San Fele, and Forenza (where studies each year in the historical processions of even bewitched Frederick II of Swabia. this very castle that in 1231 Frederick Easter 1528 when it was sacked by claim it is the birthplace of Hugues Forenza, Acerenza, and Banzi in August. more than four thousand people. de Payen who founded the Order of 7 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland

It was here that Urban II founded the league that led to the First Crusade

DAUNIAN MEMORIES Daunian ceramics, heavy armour, and bronze weapons are to be found among the ancient treasures on display in the Museum.

the city and was constructed in the thirteenth century when Frederick II extended the city walls. The ogival arch dates from this period while the two cylindrical towers were added in the fifteenth century. The bell tower of theCathedral of Santa Maria ARCHAEOLOGICAL Assunta dates from 1056 and towers in all its glory over the city TREASURE TROVE with the Norman symbol of two gryphons. The majestic Many of the finds unearthed in the area are on display at the National architecture is a lasting testament to Melfi's strategic role, Museum of Archaeology of Melfese including in terms of spiritual power. In fact, a number of papal including the splendid Sarcophagus of Rapolla (left). enacted the famous Constitutiones Rapolla, an exceptional work with the RICH COMPLEMENTS The wonderful Italian- Augustales, also known as the delicate sculpture of a reclining woman Chalcidian bronze helmet Constitutions of Melfi, outlining the rules on its lid that came from Asia Minor and unearthed from one of reorganising feudal rights including dates from the second half of the second the tombs in Lavello. granting women the right of succession. century. Still inside the castle just beyond The helmet dates from the fourth century B.C. The city can be reached by taking the the drawbridge over the deep moat is state highway/trunk road SS 658 after the Clock Tower and along with other leaving the A16 Napoli-Canosa towers it sets the backdrop for the vast motorway at the Candela exit, and is full internal courtyards and the baronial with mediaeval charm harping back to Palazzo Doria, which is constructed on its glorious history that led it to become three levels with an arched passageway the capital of the Duchy of Apulia in that provides access to the sixteenth 1059. The castle now houses the National century family chapel. On leaving the Museum of Archaeology of Melfese (Tel: castle through the Venosina Gate, visitors 0972/23.87.26) and exhibits precious finds can explore the village and its artistic and dating from the seventh-eighth centuries architectural treasures. The ogival-shaped 8BC as well as the Sarcophagus of gate is one of the six ancient entrances to 9 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland This is the realm of the wine Aglianico DOCG, the Barolo of the South

ASKOS AND THE MAJESTIC CANDELABRA MADONNA OF THE Some of the other ASSUMPTION wonders on display The Wine Trail The harmonious facade and at the Museum of the interior of the Cathedral Archaeology. visiting wine cellars with tastings of Santa Maria Assunta The volcanic land that surrounds Mount Vulture provides the whose original part dates perfect habitat for the vineyards that produce the Aglianico back to the year 1056. del Vulture DOCG wine whose praises were sung by in several of his works. This soil has therefore dedicated a little space for the senses. Wine-tastings and guided tours to the characteristic wine cellars that are carved in tuff are frequently organised in Rionero in Vulture, Venosa, Melfi, Rapolla, Barile, Acerenza, Forenza, Maschito, Genzano, Ripacandida, and Ginestra, and have proven to be excellent opportunities to find out more about the unique character of the king of Lucanian wines, ever more popular and valued both in Italy and abroad and has been rated one the best Italian reds for some time now. A ruby red wine that is harmonious, warm, sapid, and crisp with an average alcohol content of 12 - 15% vol that becomes increasingly velvety as it ages.

councils were held here and it was at the Church of San Pastore as well as the eighteenth MEDIAEVAL ALLURE the council of 1089 that Pope Urban II Each stone in these places Lorenzo, with its century Palazzo Vescovile (Episcopal entered into alliance with the Normans has tales of a glorious past octagonal plan Palace) with its beautiful baroque to tell. One of the six that would lead to the First Crusade to ancient entrances to and original part balcony in Piazza Duomo. Just outside the Holy Lands. There are numerous the city, the Venosina dating from 1100, the city walls is the Bagni district, known seventeenth century canvases inside Gate(above) is no exception. the Renaissance as Borgo, and once the site of the city's the Cathedral such as those painted Church of production activities with furnaces, by Andrea Miglionico, the Lucanian Madonna del Carmelo, once an shops, and windmills. Outside the artist of the Giordano school, finely integral part of the Carmelite Convent, inhabited centre along state highway/ carved baroque altars, and a beautiful and the Church of Santa Maria La Nova trunk road SS 303 in the direction of LAND OFthirteenth CHEESE century fresco depicting the with its unique thirteenth century zig-zag Rapolla is the city cemetery with the High quality products suchMadonna as and Child in the left arm of portal. Alleyways and stately homes crypt of Santa Margherita, an Pecorino dithe Filiano transept from which the beautiful adorned with portals and stone extraordinary example of a thirteenth are producedRenaissance quire is accessed. Other decorations are to be found in the heart century rupestrian church. The church according sacredto the sixteenth century buildings of the city around Piazza Umberto I. interior, excavated in volcanic tuff, is rich dairy tradition. include the Church of Sant'Antonio Among these are the Palazzi Lancieri, frescoed with a number of incredibly 10 even though it was later remodelled, Araneo, Pierri, Severini, Aquilecchia, and beautiful and delicate Byzantine-style11 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATABASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland

S. MARGHERITA The crypt was excavated in tuff in the thirteenth century. RAPOLLA: Below, the town's Cathedral.

one of the most famous musicians of his time. The ancient Venusia, set in fertile, rolling hills dotted with vineyards, olive groves, and orchards was founded by the Romans although it was inhabited by the Samnite people as early as 291 BC. Ne restano ampie tracce nel Parco Archeologico (località San The crypt of Santa Margherita Rocco, 0972/3.60.95) dove sono visibili le terme, la domus, l’anfiteatro, il complesso residenziale ed episcopale. Next to the is a masterpiece of rock art park is one of the most interesting architectural examples of

Thermal baths and ancient cattle tracks SAINTS AND paintings. Depicting the SS 303 is the imposingly fortified SOVEREIGNS the Saint's masserie regie (royal farmsteads) of passing through archaeologically rich areas The magnificent frescoes martyrdom and Leonessa and Parasacco established by in the crypt depict scenes from his life the King of Swabia on the slopes of Rapolla is known for its thermal baths while the town, nestling on high ground, is known for episodes and events in the the fourteenth century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Church of Santa Lucia (tenth- life of Santa Margherita and the lives of Mount Perrone. A half hour's drive eleventh century), and the Church of the Crucifix built on a Basilian laura by Benedictine and the famous Warning other "warriors" of separates Melfi fromVenosa , one of the monks and frescoed with thirteenth century paintings. Lavello (photo below) was an of the dead. important hub for the movement of livestock to and from Apulia and major archaeological the Lord as well as region's true masterpieces of architecture finds have been unearthed in the surrounding areas. The Norman Castle where Corrado the Warning of the and urban design featured in the list of IV, the son of Frederick II, died in 1284 is located in the village. Outstanding among the dead in which Frederick II is depicted in sacred buildings is the Church of Sant'Anna which boasts various works of art including the Italy's most beautiful towns which is a Annunciation by Antonio Stabile. Montemilone, adorned with stone portals and wrought falconer’s attire. Close by is another major and longstanding Lucanian artistic iron window-lined balconies, stands among rolling hills on the border with Apulia's Murge impressive rupestrian church, this time and cultural centre. The birthplace of the plateau, and towering over the town are the Church of Santo Stefano (photo on the right) and the Church of the Immacolata. Barile, a town of Albanian origin (refugees fleeing the dedicated to Santa Lucia, with thirteenth great poet Horace, who was born Ottoman troops advancing into century frescoes depicting the story of here in 65 BC, and other eminent figures what was then known as Illyria Madonna and Child including Prince Carlo Gesualdo da took refuge in this area in the the Saint's life and a fifteenth to sixteenth centuries) seated on a mosaic throne in typical Venosa (born here in 1566) who was an still has the Albanian customs, Byzantine style. Continuing northward on unparalleled composer of madrigals and traditions, and dialect. The cellars of Scescio are very characteristic caves carved into the rock used to 12 preserve the Aglianico wine. 13 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland Abbeys, churches, andxxxxxx cathedrals xxxxx xxxx steepedcoloxxxxxblue in legend the and landscape mystery THE TIMELESS ALLURE OF THE INCOMPIUTA (UNFINISHED PART) Work commenced in the eleventh century but was never completed. An unfinished work that has given us spectacular landscapes

HORACE Born in Venosa in 65 B.C., traces of the grand master of irony and style remain in the house that is thought to have once been his home.

early Christian art in , the floor coverings and its ceiling open to San Basilio and completed in 1502. It is Abbey of the Trinity with its precious the sky. From here, heading in the accessed through a beautiful frescoes and the mortal remains of direction of the cemetery, visitors will Renaissance portal constructed by Cola Robert Guiscard and other members of come to the Hill of the Maddalena and di Conza while the bell tower, which is the Altavilla family. In the abbey's rear site of the Christian Catacombs (fourth over section is the aptly named Incompiuta, century) and Jewish Catacombs 42 metres tall, is on two levels an unfinished work commenced in the (third-fourth century) testifying to the surmounted eleventh century with a view to presence of a large Jewish community by a pyramidal spire featuring a number creating one large Trinity Abbey in the city in that period. Only the latter of inlaid Roman inscriptions. The interior is including the old church. It is a truly catacombs are open to the public and embellished by many works of art extraordinary sight prospective visitors must obtain prior including the baroque painting of with walls and authorisation from the Basilicata Francesco Solimena depicting the pillars that create a Archaeological Heritage Department Assumption of Mary, and the small but cruciform plan of a (info tel: 0971/32.31.11). It is well worth remarkable Renaissance fresco of the TEMPORAL AND SPIRITUAL POWER single, large place visiting the Cathedral of Sant'Andrea Adoration of the Magi by Simone of Above, the Church of Purgatory with a of worship with which was built in the town centre on Florence. Other Renaissance places of close-up of the statue of San Luca, and grass in place of the site of the ancient Greek Church of worship include the Church of San 14the imposing city castle (side). 15 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland The ancient Venusia was founded by the Romans in 291 BC

elements, and ceramics including Daunian ceramics, among which is an askos with polychrome decoration found in the Lavello area depicting a native funeral celebrated according to Roman tradition. There are also a number of stately homes dotted around the city. To name just a few, among these are PIRRO DEL BALZO CASTLE DIADUMENOS the Calvino, De Luca, Del Bali, and Dardes stately homes. One Founded with a quadrangular The marble sculpture of the cannot leave the city without visiting the Palaeolithic Site at plan in 1470, the castle houses the Greek athlete's head dating National Museum of Archaeology. from the second century AD Notarchirico, one of the most important archaeological sites in It is accessed via a bridge adorned on display in the Museum dating from between six hundred thousand and three with Roman lions (left). alongside other great treasures at the Museum. Biagio with a fifteenth century stone Virgin Mary. Other places of interest are Holy Week in Vulture, religion and symbolism Pietà, and the Church of Purgatory, also the Roman building traditionally known as known as the Church of San Filippo Neri, the House of Horace, the Tomb of During Holy Week, Vulture Melfese organises countless performances of the sacred drama of the Passion. The with its wonderful baroque facade. Marcello in which the body of Roman performances in Atella, Rionero in Vulture, Rapolla, Forenza, Maschito, and Venosa are especially evocative (info: www.aptbasilicata.it, Events section). The Albanian echoes and charm of the Via Crucis (Stations of the Among the other works of art inside is a consul Claudio Marcello is said to rest, Cross) is held in Barile on Good Friday and as well as the region's best known, it is the oldest of its kind dating back seventeenth century polyptych by an and Pirro del Balzo Castle with its mighty to the seventeenth century. An event where emotions run high, which in addition to Jesus on his way to Calvary unknown artist depicting the Creation of cylindrical towers and quadrangular plan and the other classical figures of the Gospel, also sees the metaphorical characters created by the collective the world. This is not to forget the which dates back to 1470. Accessed by imagination among its participants. Included in these are thirty-three young girls dressed in white who represent Renaissance Church of San Martino, a bridge adorned by two lions that came the years of Christ’s life, and a Gypsy adorned with jewellery, symbolic of the local community's Albanian origins which contains a splendid thirteenth from the ruins of the Roman city, it houses and of the combination of wealth, evil, and danger. The poignant procession for which preparations commence weeks before is accompanied by an intense dirge that practically involves the whole town. century Byzantine table portraying the the National Museum of Archaeology (Tel: 0972/3.60.95) which features vast THE PASSION PRINCE GESUALDO collections of finds unearthed in The Via Crucis of Barile, The unparalleled Carlo with its Albanian Gesualdo was born in archaeological sites in the city and the echoes, is the oldest Venosa in 1566. He was one surrounding areas. Some of the more such event in the region. of the most famous and interesting finds are coins, epigraphs, talked-about composers of funerary objects, decorative architectural 16madrigals of his time. 17 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland From the sunny Aglianico DOCG hillsides to the artistic wonders of the historical cities

ROWS OF BRIGHT RED VINES VINEYARDS One of the many picturesqueLocated near Venosa, they hillsides covered with vineyardsdate from the third-fourth producing grapes for the century, testifying to the wine. presence of a large Jewish community in the city at that time. hundred thousand years ago. Here, visitors can admire the eleven levels of excavation which produced the bones of large prehistoric fauna such as , rhinoceros, and bison as well as lytic tools and one of the oldest human remains found in ABOVE: The moat the South, the femur of an adult female of the Homo erectus leading into the castle where the species. Provincial road 168 from Venosa takes visitors to Palazzo ABOVE: One of the wonderful Askos San Gervasio whose inhabited centre affords wonderful views many alleyways in Catarinella is located over the nearby Apulian Murge. It is built on a promontory Banzi. The village is BELOW: The vast dominated by a castle-manor house used by Frederick II for surrounded by collection of vases archaeologically on display in the rich areas. Museum. breeding horses. Travelling South takes contained the area of modern-day visitors to Banzi, the ancient Bantia Civitas, . This is one of the most where the Carthaginian military important Oscan language finds ever commander , the terrible unearthed, i.e. in the language of the Carthaginian military leader, defeated Osci, the Samnite people who populated the Roman consuls Marcus Claudius central and southern Italy from the Marcellus and Titus Quinctius Crispinus in seventh century B.C. The ruins of the 208 BC during the second Punic war. The oldest abbey in the region are found in area is dotted with rich archaeological the town, a Benedictine Abbey dating URBAN JEWEL The image at the top sites such as those in the Cimitero and from the ninth century, which is open to of the adjacent page Montelupino quarters where major finds the public. The Church of Santa Maria shows an aerial view of were unearthed. The famous Tabula Venosa, one of Italy's Bantina, a bronze plate dating from the PALAZZO most beautiful towns. second century B.C. and now on display SAN GERVASIO Adjacent is the Church of in the National Museum of Archaeology RIGHT: Matrice dedicated to San Hebrew catacombs. in , was found in the territory of the Nicola. The village is set in ancient Bantia Civitas which once a panoramic position on 18 the Apulian Murge. 19 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland Chest of natural treasures and ancient traditions

BARILE: Aerial view of the town and (above) wine cellars carved in tuff. GENZANO: Below, Monteserico Castle, built around the year 1000

The view from the promontory on which it stands stretches over the golden rolling hills that surround it. Taking the S.S. 169 from Genzano then provincial roads 122 and 6, along winding roads dotted with RIONERO: Above, the vineyards and olive groves leads to Acerenza, one of Church of San Marco. the region's most charming mediaeval towns which The town is the birthplace overlooks the Upper Valley and is included of . in the list of the most beautiful towns in Italy . The RAPONE: Below, the eleventh century Cathedral dedicated to the town fountain. It affords a wonderful view. dates from the surrounding valleys. Points of interest are Trails and Angevin towers eleventh century but the Church of the Annunziata, founded in Rionero in Vulture is a major Aglianico wine making centre and is the base for many has been remodelled the thirteenth century but remodelled in nature excursions. It is the birthplace of meridionalista (expert on the problems of the over the centuries the sixteenth century, with its wonderfully South) Giustino Fortunato and the famous brigand . The Natural and the appended decorated portal, the Church of Santa History Museum at the Abbey of San Michele (Tel: 0972/73.10.28) is an absolute must. convent can also be Maria della Platea, founded in 1400 and Not far from Rionero is Monticchio Bagni with its plant bottling the volcanic mineral waters of Mount Vulture. Maschito. The town was repopulated by Albanians visited. The facade is later remodelled which has a precious who came to the area in the fifteenth century. Places of interest are the Church of decorated with a fourteenth century fifteenth century polyptych of the the Madonna del Caroseno with a fresco of theMadonna and Child (1558), and the bas-relief depicting a Madonna and Venetian school on display, and the Church of Sant'Elia dating from 1698. Ruvo del Monte Child while the Baroque-style interior, Fountana Cavallina which is topped by a affords beautiful views over the surrounding landscape. The Angevin tower and the ruins of the sixteenth century ABOVE: The delicate boasts various works of art, including a sculpture of the goddess Ceres dating castle are an absolute must. Rapone. The mediaeval village and sweet fresco of thirteenth century painting of the Virgin from the first century before Christ. is adorned with stone portals and gargoyles. San Fele the Madonna and on wood. Just a few minutes from Banzi is Thirteen kilometres east of the town are nestles on a steep rocky wall. The ruins of the castle and Child in the Church del Genzano di Lucania, an ancient Roman the ruins of the Monteserico Castle, built the baroque Church of Santa Maria della Quercia are well Caroseno in Maschito. worth visiting as is the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Pierno LEFT: settlement perched on a rocky spur from around the year One Thousand and (photo on the left) in the which there is a truly unique view over the subsequently also used by Frederick II. The imposing surrounding area which Angevin tower of 20 dates from 1189. Ruvo del Monte. 21 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland

MYSTERY AND SPLENDOUR The opulent interior of the Cathedral contrasts with the sober exterior. There are those who wish that the mythical Holy Grail were hidden in the crypt.

APOTHEOSIS OF SHAPES Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and to Saint Canius Above, the magnificent stands between alleyways and squares. Built according in the architectural system Romanesque style imported by Cluny, with is sober, imposing inspired by the Romanesque teachings of Cluny. architecture and wonderful apse system, this cathedral is a true triumph for aficionados of this style of architecture. Mediaeval villages and unspoilt landscapes Indeed, before entering the majestic interior, it is worth taking a walk around to admire the cathedral's turrets and apses fully. for an authentic journey through time The entrance portal is adorned by monstrous figures of intertwined animals and humans while inside are a number of artworks including a large polyptych by Antonio Stabile from 1583 depicting Our Lady of the Rosary on the throne with ABOVE: Acerenza Child, handing the eighteenth century Palazzo Gala and ECCENTRIC rosary to Saint Curia Vecchia adorned with coats of ALCHEMIES with its preserved mediaeval system. One of the monstrous Dominic with Saint arms and stone portals. The not to be sculptures of men LEFT: A fresco in the Thomas, and the missed ancient caves excavated into and animals entwined Cathedral's crypt. By wonderful the rock to preserve the Aglianico are on the portal of the Giovanni Todisco. Renaissance located in Via delle Cantine. A forty Cathedral. Below, its frescoes by plain facade. minutes' drive away on provincial road Giovanni Todisco 113 and the scenic municipal roads that adorn the crypt with various lead to Lake Acerenza and the subjects such as Saint Andrew, Saint Ramonnino, San Giorgio, and Possidente Gerome, the Woman of the areas, and then on to Lagopesole Apocalypse, and the Adoration of the Castle, one of the most beautiful Magi. Various stately homes are Federician castles in the South of Italy, scattered throughout the town, much loved by Frederick II who used it including the sixteenth century former as a hunting lodge. Once used a refuge Prefecture located just a stone's throw by brigands, the castle towers over the 22 away from the Cathedral, and the Coste Castello Nature Reserve in the 23 BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland BASILICATA BASILICATA

“The world of Frederick II”: ABOVE: museum and multi-screen performance Filano murals. RIGHT: The fourteenth for an exciting learning experience. century Atella Cathedral.

BELOW: the "exhibit hall" in "The World of Frederick II" museum at Lagopesole Castle.

Angeli, founded in the sixteenth century. Then after setting off from here and leaving the S.S. 93 to climb the winding narrow roads, the road seems to trace a magic circle around this uniquely atmospheric area before arriving at the Monticchio The World of Frederick II Lakes, two stretches of water of volcanic origin at the foot of Lagopesole Castle, Federician location par excellence, welcomes visitors to Mount Vulture. The Abbey of San Michele was founded in the the "World of Frederick II" transporting them into secret rooms and narrating eleventh century by Benedictine monks on his life story and tales of life at court with the many feasts, banquets, markets, the site of existing caves inhabited by inns, along with tales of treachery and betrayal. A big evening performance Basilian monks and whose depths contain with multi-screen projections in the castle courtyard. A multimedia art beautiful Byzantine frescoes. In fact, the installation is in place in the castle's halls throughout the year. For information tel. 0971 86251 www.castellolagopesole.it Abbey’s image is reflected on the surface

of times. A little further north is Atella, with DOLCE VITA Avignano. From the fourteenth century Cathedral of LANDSCAPES OF THE SOUL Many events are linked Old country houses and gentle, to the tradition of here, the SS 93 leads Santa Maria ad Nives, whose portal evocative hills around Genzano. rich food and wine. to Filiano, known for features unusual Islamic decorations. One of these events is its pecorino cheese Inside are valuable fourteenth and the Aglianica Festival and the festival fifteenth century wood carvings and for wine enthusiasts which is held at the dedicated to it held fourteenth century paintings, and a start of September. ABOVE: Rock paintings at the beginning of fifteenth century wooden sculpture of in ochre dating from the Mesolithic period. September. A series of Saint Peter attributed to Altobello Persio. ABOVE: Lagopesole rock paintings in The small Church of Santa Lucia is also Castle during the ochre in the Tuppo worthy of note. It was founded in 1389 but "The world of Frederick dei Sassi area dating remodelled from the seventeenth century II" multi-vision. from the Mesolithic onwards, and has a fifteenth century and depicting hunting fresco of Our Lady of Reparation. scenes bear witness to the fact that the Proceeding along the SS leads to the area was already inhabited in prehistoric monastery-fortress of Santa Maria degli 24 25 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland Ripacandida has been referred to as the Little of Basilicata

MONTICCHIO The ancient Abbey of San Michele (eleventh century) reflects in the blue Fresco cycles waters of the two and Albanian traditions volcanic lakes. Ripacandida. The town has wonderful views over Mount Vulture and the Gothic Church of San Donato at the town's entrance features a beautiful cycle of frescoes painted by an unknown fifteenth century Lucanian master. The frescoes depict scenes from the Old and New Testament, images of saints, and allegories about Virtue. The mediaeval Church dell'Annunziata is accessed through a thirteenth-fourteenth century portal, and the seventeenth century Capuchin Monastery with the Church of the Crucifix dominate the SAN DONATO town of Forenza. The inhabitants of Ginestra are of Below are the Albanian origin and have retained their rites and traditions. splendid cycle of Places of interest are the Chiesa Madre(Mother Church), frescoes that unite dedicated to San Nicola and dating from 1500, and the Ripacandida and the Church of the Madonna di Costantinopoli, founded in 1588 city of the Poverello and later remodelled. frescoed by Giotto.

of the smaller of the two lakes. The ABOVE LEFT: creatures, and magnificent building which now houses The Mother Church of goblins. One such the Museum of Natural History of Vulture San Nicola in Ginestra creature is the (for info please contact: 0972/73.10.28) (large photo), and the Monacello (Little Church of the Crucifix in clings to a rocky ridge surrounded by Forenza (small photo) Monk) called impenetrable woods, the perfect Scazzamauridd, a hideaway for many brigands, playful and particularly in the post-unification mischievous sprite with an unmistakable period, inviolable custodians of red cap who promises to reveal the superstitions and legends, stories of location of great treasures to anyone LAND OFmagicians CHEESE and sorcerers, strange who succeeds in stealing his hat.

XXXXXXX AGGI LaTie vel irit, quatin henim zzrilla facipsustrud tet utpat lore et augue mod dio 26doloreet 27 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland ECHOES OF HOW WHERE THE PAST WHEN Land of brigands for the How to get there Rare specimen in the liberation of the people Vulture Melfese can be reached by those travelling from Vulture Region the Adriatic by taking the A14 motorway from Bologna to The Grotticelle controlled nature reserve (Site Foggia, then the SS 655 as far as the junction for Candela, of Special Scientific Interest) near Rionero at "The fear and and lastly the SS 658 in the direction of Potenza as far the foot of Mount Vulture is the habitat of the rare complicity of a Brahmaea Europaea, or European Owl Moth,, a as Melfi. Those travelling from the Tyrrenian side should population is around Events: honey and sommeliers nocturnal moth from the Brahmaeidae family which take the A3 -Reggio motorway as far as us. That population AglianicoFestival (www.aglianica.it is held at the is composed of just five genera and ten species. It which, scorned the Sicignano exit. From here, take the E847 as far as is considered to be a sort of "living fossil" from the start of September every year and is an important by royal officials Potenza and then the SS 658 to Melfi. Or alternatively, the Miocene Period (26-7 million years ago) and is only national event for wine enthusiasts with wine tastings found in Asia. The moth was discovered in 1963 and treacherous A16 Napoli-Canosa motorway exiting at Candela and then Piedmontese, and various related events held in the historical by the well-known South Tyrolean entomologist proceeding to Melfi. intrinsically knew that residences of the local villages. Ripacandita, the Federico Hartig., we were denied all city of honey, hosts the Mostra mercato del miele rights, even human dignity. And who Lucano (Lucanian honey show) every August (info: could avenge them www.aptbasilicata.it, Events section). if not us, united by the same destiny? We too are louts, no longer willing to bow our heads. Trampled upon like grass by horses' hooves, trampled upon we avenged ourselves. Many, many mistakenly thought they could use us for revolutions. Their revolutions. But freedom is not about changing master. It is not a vain and abstract word. It is saying, 'it's mine', without fear and having strong feelings of ownership for something starting from the soul. It is living on what we love. Strong and impetuous wind, reborn with every generation. In the name of of Frederick II Mineral water and chestnuts So it has been and so it shall always be.." (from the The plentiful waters of Mount Vulture are rich sources spectacular (a form of multimedia performance art), In August, Lagopesole Castle is transformed into theatre and hosts the Palio for the town's three competing of mineral water, which is bottled in the many local La Storia Bandita [Translator’s Note: A play on words bottling plants and is known for its organoleptic that translates as both: Outlawed History and History districts and the ’At the court of Frederick’ historical re-enactment (www.allacortedifederico.com) with properties in both Italy and abroad. The forests of of the Bandits]). These words were spoken by the actor the Vulture Melfese also produce an abundance who plays the part of Carmine Crocco, born in Rionero archery tournaments and an atmosphere like that of a village festival, with mediaeval menus and parades of chestnuts. The marroncino di Melfi variety of in 1830 and leader of post-unification Lucanian band chestnut is an excellent choice for marrons glacés of brigands, the opposition movement of the masses, with noblemen and women, court jesters, fire-eaters, and falconers wearing historical costumes. In fact, the and traditional local dishes. Two dedicated chestnut of the poor, of the latter’s disappointment over the Oil and cheese too events are held in October: In Rapolla: Cantine broken promises of the Unified State after the hopes International falconry conference and gathering of Melfi, Rionero, Barile, Rapolla, Acerenza, Lavello, and falconers held in Melfi in October, with its events that aperte (Open cellars) and Sagra delle castagne of liberation aroused by Garibaldi. Vulture Melfese Venosa produce an excellent Vulture extra virgin (Chestnut Festival) (info: www..rapolla.pz, was at the very heart of the protest, which lasted for harp back to Federician times, is dedicated to precisely that - the art of falconry - the great passion of Frederick II olive oil PDO based on the region's most the popular 0972/64.71.11); In Melfi: Sagra della Varola (Varola a period of five years and saw the involvement of Festival) (info: Proloco, Tel: 0972/23.97.51). thousands of farmers who joined the bands of brigands (info: Proloco di Melfi, Tel: 0972/23.97.51). olive oil, ogliarola, also known as "rapollese" that led by Caruso, , Schiavone, Tinna, and grows on volcanic soils. is one others. A history re-enacted in the Historical Rural and of the many cheeses produced in the area and is Environmental Park of La Grancia (www.parcostorico.it) celebrated at the start of September with its very in Brindisi di Montagna (in the nearby Valley), own, dedicated festival (info: Proloco di Filiano, through La Storia Bandita spectacular, the largest multimedia popular theatre event in Italy with its www.prolocofiliano.it). 28special effects and hundreds of walk-on roles. 29 BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA Vulture Melfese and its hinterland ap m BASILICATA

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