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Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise the Tales That Surround the County’S First Saints and Photographer James Fraher Began Taking Photographs in Ireland in 1977

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Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise the Tales That Surround the County’S First Saints and Photographer James Fraher Began Taking Photographs in Ireland in 1977 Caimin O’Brien, a native of Birr, Co. Offaly, works as an archaeologist with the Archaeological Survey of Ireland, Stories W which is a section of the National Monuments Service of the ith the flair of a storyteller and the keen Department of the Environment, Heritage and Local eye of a practicing archaeologist, Caimin O’Brien Government. He attended University College Galway where he graduated with a degree in archaeology and later went from a looks beneath the monastic ruins of County Offaly on to complete an M. Litt. in Medieval History at Trinity Stories to uncover Stories from a Sacred Landscape: Croghan College Dublin. His publications include The Archaeological Inventory of County Offaly, The Medieval Churches of County a from Hill to Clonmacnoise. Offaly and The Archaeological Inventory of County Tipperary, O’Brien draws on archaeology, history, poetry, North Riding. He has worked for the last ten years on the Archaeological Survey of Ireland and has been recently Landscape Sacred Sacred Landscape folklore and legend to create vivid portraits of involved in researching the glass industry of seventeenth twenty-five sacred places within Offaly. He recounts century Offaly. Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise the tales that surround the county’s first saints and Photographer James Fraher began taking photographs in Ireland in 1977. His recent projects in Ireland have included the monasteries they founded. A Day In The Life of Ireland (1991); the Lough Boora Because four of the five ancient provinces of International Sculpture Symposium (Co. Offaly, 2002) and the Laois Artists’ Symposium (Emo Court, Co. Laois, 2005). Ireland met in Offaly, its monasteries played a crucial His photographs have been exhibited in museums and This book is the distillation of 15 years of work by the author in County Offaly. It is a unique insight into economic and political role in Irish history. O’Brien galleries in the United States, France, Italy and Scotland, as well as in Ireland at the Fanning the Flames Festival in the ecclesiastical remains of the county through survey and by studying the landscape, its monuments, follows the stories of Offaly’s monastic foundations Tullamore, Co. Offaly; the Ferbane Heritage and Art Centre, historical documents and poetry. It tells the story of Christianity in Offaly in a way no other author has ever through tribal conflict, Anglo-Norman conquest, Ferbane, Co. Offaly; The City Arts Centre in Dublin, and attempted. This is a welcome addition to the study of the medieval church in the county. the Ulster Museum. Fraher is the author of The Blues is a Gaelic Revival, the Reformation and on to the Feeling: Voices and Visions of African-American Blues Musicians —David Sweetman MRIA, FSA, former Chief Archaeologist of Ireland present day. (1998). He teamed up with author Roger Wood to produce Down in Houston: Bayou City Blues (2002). Lavish illustrations make Stories from a Sacred This well-researched and visually exciting book would entice anyone to explore the many fascinating Landscape a visual feast. It features images of Offaly’s Mary Ann Williams is a writer and editor who specialises ancient Christian sites, both large and small, that Offaly has to offer. It is an excellent key to unlock the in heritage and natural history. Her clients have included the C monastic landscape by the internationally renowned Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago, the Monterey county’s ecclesiastical treasures. AIMIN Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California; the County Museum, photographer James Fraher. Dundalk; St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, and the Heritage —Dr. Peter Harbison, Honorary Academic Editor at the Royal Irish Academy The book also contains full-colour photographs Officers of Counties Offaly and Laois. O’B of the treasures produced in Offaly’s monasteries, Kevin O’Dwyer is an artist, designer, curator and freelance Caimin O'Brien presents a vivid picture of the life and times in the early monastic settlements, including exquisite gold, silver and bronze artworks art consultant residing in Durrow, County Offaly. His work highlighting their role in society and their changes in fortune though political upheavals. RIEN features in the collections of the National Museum of Ireland, and glorious illuminated manuscripts. In addition, The Ulster Museum, The Victoria and Albert Museum, The This attractive book breaks new ground in presenting a visual feast with excellent photography it highlights the artistry of monastic stonemasons Racine Museum of Art and The High Museum (USA). He and design work by James Fraher and Connie Scanlon. is acting Chairperson of Sculpture in the Parklands and a and of the county’s stained glass windows, many by The engaging combination of storytelling, folklore, historical and archaeological facts will appeal former member of the Cultural Relations Committee of Harry Clarke Studios. Ireland and the Offaly Heritage Forum. to a wide audience whilst providing a valuable contribution to our understanding of how these early Stories from a Sacred Landscape is essential Connie Scanlon, a graphic designer for over 20 years, works monastic sites functioned within society. with clientele in government, business, education, and arts reading for anyone with an interest in religion, —Pat Wallace, Director, National Museum of Ireland organizations in both the U.S. and Europe. Her previous politics and Irish history. O’Brien’s unique and book designs include The Blues is a Feeling: Voices and Visions comprehensive approach to his native county will of African-American Blues Musicians and The Greatest Thing SUPPORTED BY THE HERITAGE COUNCIL CAIMIN O’BRIEN Since Sliced Cheese: Stories of Kraft Foods Inventors and Their change forever the way that people see Offaly’s Inventions. Born in Chicago, Connie practices graphic design from the Bogfire studios in Grayslake, Illinois and from the sacred landscape. foothills of the Slieve Gampf in County Sligo. LE CUIDIÚ AN CHOMHAIRLE OIDHREACHTA Stories from a Sacred Landscape Stories from a Sacred Landscape Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise BY CAIMIN O’BRIEN FEATURING SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES FRAHER EDITED BY MARY ANN WILLIAMS DESIGNED BY CONNIE SCANLON,BOGFIRE INC. CONCEIVED AND DIRECTED BY KEVIN O’DWYER CONCEIVED AND PRODUCED BY AMANDA PEDLOW Published by Offaly County Council Distributed by Stories from a Sacred Landscape: Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise is dedicated to the people of Offaly. Copyright © 2006 Offaly County Council Text © 2006 Caimin O’Brien Caimin O’Brien is an archaeologist with the Archaeological Survey of Ireland, a section of the National Monuments Service of the Department of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government. His publications include The Archaeological Inventory of County Offaly, The Medieval Churches of County Offaly and The Archaeological Inventory of County Tipperary, North Riding. Unless otherwise specified, the photographs in this book are © James Fraher 2006. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. For reprint permission contact: Offaly Heritage Officer Offaly County Council Áras an Chontae Charleville Road Tullamore, County Offaly (05793) 46800 www.offaly.ie/offalyheritage Mercier ISBN 1 85635 489 X Trade enquiries to: Columba Mercier Distribution, 55a, Spruce Avenue, Stillorgan Industrial Park Blackrock, Dublin www.mercierpress.ie BRITISH LIBRARY CATALOGUING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Project manager: Kevin O’Dwyer, Silver River Studios, Tullamore, County Offaly www.millennium2000silver.com Graphic design by Connie Scanlon and James Fraher, Bogfire Inc. www.bogfire.com Edited by Mary Ann Williams, [email protected] Typeset in Minion, Papyrus and ATDelphian Open Printed in Hong Kong by Regal Printing SUPPORTED BY THE HERITAGE COUNCIL LE CUIDIÚ AN CHOMHAIRLE OIDHREACHTA CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS vi FOREWARD vii MAPS viii INTRODUCTION x CHAPTER 1: CROGHAN HILL–THE HOLY MOUNTAIN 2 CHAPTER 2: SEIRKIERAN–BURYING PLACE OF THE KINGS OF OSSORY 16 CHAPTER 3: GALLEN–THE CHURCH OF THE WELSHMEN 30 CHAPTER 4: KILLEIGH–THE CHURCH ON THE LONG RIDGE 44 CHAPTER 5: BIRR–THE CHURCH OF THE ILLUMINATOR 60 CHAPTER 6: CLONMACNOISE–CIARÁN’S SHINING CITY 74 CHAPTER 7: BANAGHER–THE CHURCH OF THE ABBESS RYNAGH 106 CHAPTER 8: DURROW–THE CHURCH ON THE PLAIN OF OAKS 114 CHAPTER 9: DRUMCULLEN–THE CHURCH ON THE HOLLY RIDGE 136 CHAPTER 10: LYNALLY–THE CHURCH OF SWANS 146 CHAPTER 11: RAHAN–THE CHURCH ON THE LAND OF FERNS 160 CHAPTER 12: LEMANAGHAN–MANCHAN’S GREY LANDS 176 CHAPTER 13: ISLANDS OF TRANQUILLITY 198 NOTES 211 LIST OF IMAGES 216 INDEX OF PERSONS AND PLACES 224 MODERN MAP 229 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The creation of Stories from a Sacred Landscape: Croghan Hill to Clonmacnoise required considerable time and financial resources. Without the enthusiasm and support of Offaly County Council, this book would never have been possible. I would like to thank the Council for commissioning this book and also for the range of its other projects to conserve and pro- mote Offaly’s early Christian Monastic sites. This project began when Atlantic Corridor Ireland/Offaly Regeneration Ltd. approached Offaly County Council with the idea for this specific book. Atlantic Corridor Ireland/Offaly Regeneration Ltd., Shannon Development and the Heritage Council are the major sponsors of its production. For their encouragement and advice throughout the development of this project, I would like to thank Anne Coughlan of the County Library Service in Offaly County Council and Mary Feehan of Mercier Press. For the provision of and permission to use illustrations thanks go to Martine O’Byrne of Trinity College, Dublin; Petra Schnabel of the Royal Irish Academy; Rose Desmond of Cambridge University; Frank Cruise and Aoife McBride of the National Museum of Ireland; Tony Roche of the Department of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government; Patricia Buckingham of the Bodleian Library, University of Oxford; Margaret Hogan, Rev.
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