31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1042

Index

Alexanderplatz (Berlin), 192, Barcelona, 152 A are River (Bern), 249 217 Berlin, 197 Abbey Church (Tihany Alfama (Lisbon), 487 Brussels, 266 Village), 327 Alfons Mucha Museum Budapest, 302 Abbey Theatre (Dublin), 391 (Prague), 775 Copenhagen, 334 Accademia Gallery Alhambra (Granada), 914, Dublin, 368 (Florence), 461 916–919 Edinburgh, 400 Accademia Nazionale di A l’Imaige de Nostre-Dame Florence, 435 Santa Cecilia (Rome), 844 (Brussels), 288 London, 520 Accommodations AlliertenMuseum (Allied Madrid, 575 getting the best deal on, 11 Museum; Berlin), 221, 226 Munich, 619 surfing for, 45–46 Alpenzoo (Alpine Zoo; Nice, 657 The Acropolis (Athens), Innsbruck), 878 Paris, 703 126–131 The Alps (Switzerland) Prague, 757 Acropolis Archaeological preparing for, 255 Rome, 791 Museum (Athens), 130 ski passes and rentals, 258 Salzburg, 850 Adalbert Stifter Memorial Alte Nationalgalerie (Berlin), Seville, 886 (Vienna), 1033 218, 220 Stockholm, 925 Aéroport Charles-de-Gaulle Alte Pinakothek (Munich), Venice, 958 (Paris), 694–696 634–635 Vienna, 1004 Aéroport d’Orly (Paris), restaurants near, 632 Amerigo Vespucci Airport 696–698 Altes Museum (Berlin), 218 (Florence), 430–431 Aeroporto Marco Polo Althorp (England), 549 Amici della Musica Sacra (Venice), 950–951 Altstadt (Old City or Town) (Rome), 844 The Agora (Athens), 127, Bern, 237 Amsterdam, 1, 61–100 128, 130–131 accommodations, accommodations, 69–74 Ägyptisches Museum 240–241 arriving in, 61–67 (Berlin), 213, 216 restaurants, 243–245 bars, 95–97 AIB Music Festival in Great sights and attractions, brown cafes, 95–96 Irish Houses (Dublin), 387 246–248 budget bests, 62 Airfares, 44–45, 50 Innsbruck, 876 business hours, 67 Airlines, 27–28, 51–53 Munich, 616 car rentals, 67 Airport security, 48–50 accommodations, 627 “coffee shops,” 97 Alameda del Tajo (Ronda), restaurants, 631–632 currency and currency 913 Salzburg, 848 exchange, 67–68 Alameda dos Oceanos accommodations, dance clubs, 97 (Lisbon), 507 856–857 deals and discounts A la Mort Subite (Brussels), restaurants, 860–862 accommodations, 71 288 COPYRIGHTEDVienna, 1001 MATERIALrestaurants, 76 Albayzín (Granada), 918 bars, 1038–1039 sightseeing, 85 Albert Cuyp market Altstadtkeller (Innsbruck), special discounts, 63 (Amsterdam), 93 873–874 doctors and dentists, 68 Albertina Museum (Vienna), Amager (Copenhagen), 332 embassies and 9, 1028 accommodations, 338 consulates, 68 Albert Memorial (London), Amalienborg Slot gay and lesbian clubs and 544 (Amalienborg Palace; bars, 96–97 Alcázar (Córdoba), 912 Copenhagen), 349 hospitals, 68 Alcázar (Seville), 898 Amalienburg (Munich), 639 Internet access, 68 Alcázar (Toledo), 611 American Express laundry and dry cleaning, Aldermen’s Chamber Amsterdam, 67 68–69 (Bruges), 290 Athens, 108 layout of, 64–65 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1043

INDEX 1043

live-music clubs, 94 Appartamenti Monumentali transportation, 106–108 mail and post offices, 69 (Florence), 465 traveling to, 101–103 nightlife, 93–97 Appartamento di Borgia visitor information, 103 organized tours, 91 (the Vatican), 821 worth a splurge, 105, 118, parks, 89–91 Arab Baths (Ronda), 913 125–126 performing arts, 94 Arc de Triomphe (Paris), 735 Athens Festival, 135 pharmacies, 68 Archaeological digs, 57–58 ATMs (automated teller picnic fare, 80 Archaeological Museum machines), 34–35 police, 69 (Nice), 675 Atomic Cafe (Munich), 649 restaurants, 75–80 Archaeology Museum Atomium (Brussels), 283 quick bites, 79 (Delphi), 141 Au Bon Marché (Paris), safety, 69 Archbishop’s House 743–744 shopping, 92–93 (Barcelona), 177 Auditorio Nacional de side trips from, 98–100 Arch of Septimius Severus Música (Madrid), 606 sights and attractions, (Rome), 826 Auer Dult (Munich), 645 80–91 Arch of Titus (Rome), 827 August Gay Pride Festival special and free events, 90 Arena (Verona), 996–997 (Amsterdam), 90 taxes, 69 Arkitekturmuseet Augustiner Bierhalle taxis, 66 (Stockholm), 944 (Munich), 647–648 telephone, 69 Arlanda Airport (Stockholm), Augustiner Bräustübl Kloster country and city 920–921 Mülln (Innsbruck), 873 codes, 67 Art galleries, Athens, 136 Augustiner Keller (Vienna), tipping, 69 Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh), 1038 transportation, 65–66 422 Aula Ottagona (Rome), visitor information, 63–64 Artis (Amsterdam), 89 832–833 websites, 64 Assistens Kirkegard Au Printemps (Paris), 743 worth a splurge, 63 (Copenhagen), 356 Austen, Jane, Centre (Bath, accommodations, 74 Astronomical Clock England), 566 restaurants, 80 (Prague), 778 Austrian Museum of Applied Amsterdam Diamond Athens, 1–2, 101–144 Arts (Vienna), 1030 Center, 93 accommodations, 110–118 Autoworld (Brussels), 283 Amsterdam Pass, 63 banks, 108 Avenida da Liberdade Amsterdamse Bos budget bests, 104 (Lisbon), 487 (Amsterdam), 90–91 business hours, 109 accommodations off, Amsterdams Historisch car rentals, 107 491–492 Museum, 84 dance clubs, 140 Avenue Louise (Brussels), Amusement Park (Budapest), deals and discounts, 105, 265 295, 320 115, 121, 129 accommodations, 271–272 Anchor Tavern (London), 562 doctors and dentists, 109 Ayuntamiento (Seville), 900 Ancient Agora (Athens), 127, embassies and 128, 130–131 consulates, 109 Ancient Rome emergencies, 109, 110 B achsee (Switzerland), accommodations around, gay and lesbian bars, 140 261 796–797 holidays, 109 Badenburg (Munich), 639 restaurants around, Internet access, 109 Bahnhof Zoologischer 806–807 layout of, 104–106 Garten (Bahnhof Zoo; sights and attractions, live-music clubs, 139–140 Berlin), 190 824–830 nightlife, 138–140 accommodations near, Andrews Lane Theatre Olympics, 112 200–203 (Dublin), 392 organized tours, 137 Bairro Alto (Lisbon), 487 Angel Bar & Dance Club performing arts, 138–139 accommodations, 493–494 (Budapest), 326 pharmacies, 110 restaurants, 497–498 Angelika Cukrászda post offices, 109–110 Baixa (Lisbon), 487 (Budapest), 314 restaurants, 119–126 accommodations, 492–493 Anne Frankhuis shopping, 137–138 restaurants, 498–499 (Amsterdam), 80–81 side trip to Delphi, 141 Balaton, Lake (Hungary), 3, Antibes (France), 687, 689 sights and attractions, 326–328 Antico Caffè Dante (Verona), 126–137 Ballenberg (Switzerland), 254 996 special events and Ballo del Doge (Venice), 984 Antikensammlungen festivals, 135 Baños Arabes (Ronda), 913 (Munich), 5, 640 taxis, 106–107 Baños de Comares Antiques Market (Brussels), telephone, 108, 110 (Granada), 917 286 tipping, 110 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1044

1044 INDEX

Barajas Airport (Madrid), Barrio de Santa Cruz Belgian Comic-Strip Center 569–570 (Seville) (Brussels), 281 Barbican Centre (London), accommodations, 888–889 Bell Tower (Venice), 980 560 restaurants, 892 Belvárosi Plébániatemplom Barcelona, 2, 145–187 sights and attractions, (Budapest), 319 accommodations, 155–161 903–904 Benaki Museum (Athens), 134 arriving in, 145–147 Basilica di San Lorenzo Benedictine Monastery budget bests, 148 (Florence), 466 Göttweig (Austria), 1041 business hours, 152 Basilica di San Marco Bergisel (Innsbruck), 878 cafes, 184 (Venice), 976–977, 980 Berlin, 2, 188–234 car rentals, 152 Basilica di San Pietro accommodations, 199–206 consulates, 152–153 (the Vatican), 815, 818 afternoon coffee and crime, 153 Basilica di Santa Croce cake, 208 cuisine and menu terms, (Florence), 4, 467 arriving in, 188–191 161–162 Basilica di Santa Maria banks, 197 currency and currency Maggiore (Rome), 838 budget bests exchange, 153 Basilica di Santa Maria nightlife, 189 deals and discounts Novella (Florence), restaurants, 211–212 accommodations, 157 468–469 business hours, 197 restaurants, 162 Basilica of Constantine and car rentals, 196–197 sightseeing, 169, 172 Maxentius (Rome), 827 consulates and special discounts, Basilica of the Holy Blood embassies, 197 146–147 (Bruges), 290 dance clubs and dance on the Web, 155 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur halls, 231–232 emergencies, 153 (Paris), 733–734 deals and discounts gay and lesbian bars, 183 Bastille Day (Paris), 737 accommodations, 200 holidays, 154 Bateaux-Mouches (Paris), 742 restaurants, 207 hospitals, 154 Bath (England), 565–568 sightseeing, 190, 213 Internet access, 154 Bath Abbey (England), 566 doctors and dentists, 198 layout of, 148–149 Baths of Diocletian (Rome), emergencies, 198 live-music clubs, 182 832–833 gay and lesbian bars, 231 mail and post offices, 154 Battistero di San Giovanni Internet access, 198 nightlife, 181–184 (Florence), 456 laundry and dry cleaning, parks and gardens, 179 Bavaria Filmstadt (Munich), 198 performing arts, 181–182 643–644 layout of, 191–192 picnic fare, 167 Bayerisches Nationalmu- live-music clubs, 230 restaurants, 161–168 seum (Munich), 641–642 mail and post offices, 198 restrooms, 154–155 Bayerische Staatsoper nightlife, 228–232 shopping, 180–181 (Munich), 646 organized tours, 226–227 side trips from, 184–187 Bayswater (London) performing arts, 228–230 sights and attractions, accommodations, 523–524 pubs and bars, 230–231 168–180 restaurant, 535 restaurants, 206–212 special and free events, 176 Bazilika (St. Stephen’s shopping, 227–228 taxis, 150 Church; Budapest), 3, 319 side trips from, 232–234 telephone, 152, 155 Beaches sights and attractions, tipping, 155 Cannes (France), 690 213–227 tours, 179–180 Juan-les-Pins, 688 special and free events, 224 transportation, 149–150 Keszthely (Hungary), 328 street eats and picnicking, visitor information, Monaco, 684 212 147–148 Nice, 671 taxes, 198–199 worth a splurge, 147, 161, St-Tropez (France), 692 taxis, 196 167–168 Sitges, 185 telephone, 196, 199 Barcelona Card, 146 Szigliget (Hungary), 327 tipping, 199 Bärengraben (Bear Pits; Bear Pits (Bern), 248–249 transportation, 193–197 Bern), 248–249 Beaulieu-sur-Mer, 679–680 visitor information, 191 Bargaining, 19 Beethoven-Gedenkstätte worth a splurge Bargello Museum (Florence), (Vienna), 1033 accommodations, 206 462–464 Begijnhof (Amsterdam), 87 nightlife, 190 Bar Jeder Vernunft (Berlin), Begijnhof (Bruges), 292 restaurants, 212 229 Belém (Lisbon), 487 Berliner Antik-und Barri Gòtic (Barcelona), restaurants, 500 Flohmarkt, 227 accommodations, 156 Belfort (Belfry; Bruges), restaurants, 162–164 289–290 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1045

INDEX 1045

Berliner Dom (Berlin), 220, BHV (Paris), 743 Bois de Vincennes (Paris), 230 Biblioteca Medicea- 741 Berliner Philharmonisches Laurenziana (Florence), 467 Book Market Temple Bar Orchester, 229–230 Bicycling (Dublin), 391 Berlin International Beer Amsterdam, 65–66 The Book of Kells (Dublin), Festival, 224 Berlin, 196 380 Berlin Jazzfest, 224 Bern, 237–238 Boom Chicago Theater Berlin-Mitte, 192 Brussels, 266 (Amsterdam), 94 accommodations, 204–205 Copenhagen, 333 Borgia Apartment (the bars, 231 Edinburgh, 399 Vatican), 821 restaurants, 210–211 Florence, 434–435, 471 Bosch, Hieronymus, 282, sights and attractions, London, 520 291, 595 217–221 Munich, 619, 645 Bosmuseum (Amsterdam), Berlin-Templehof Airport, Nice, 657 90–91 189–190 Paris, 702–703 Botanical Garden Berlin Wall, 221 tours, 742 (Copenhagen), 355 Berlin Wall Documentation Rome, 790 Botanical Garden (Munich), Center, 221 Salzburg, 850 644 Berlin Welcome-Card, 193 tours, 58 Botanic Garden, Royal Bermondsey Market Vienna, 1002–1003, 1034 (Edinburgh), 422 (London), 557–558 Biennale d’Arte (Venice), 987 Botanic Gardens, National Bern, 2–3, 235–261 Big Ben (London), 543 (Dublin), 388 accommodations, 240–242 Big Circus (Budapest), 321 Botanisk Have arriving in, 236 Blackfriar (London), 562 (Copenhagen), 355 budget bests, 235 Blarney Woollen Mills Botticelli, 223, 459, 461, car rentals, 238 (Dublin), 391 466, 548, 730, 732, 821 deals and discounts, 236 Bloemenmarkt The Bourse (Brussels) accommodations, 240 (Amsterdam), 93 accommodations, 270 restaurants, 243 Bloomsbury (London) restaurants, 274–275 sightseeing, 248 accommodations, 527–528 Bozar (Brussels), 287 embassies, 238–239 restaurants, 535 Brancacci Chapel (Florence), emergencies, 239 Bloomsday (Dublin), 387 469 Internet access, 239 Blue Ice Grotte Brandenburger Tor layout of, 237 (Switzerland), 260–261 (Brandenburg Gate; mail and post offices, 239 BMW Museum (Munich), 642 Berlin), 221 nightlife, 251–252 Boat tours and cruises Brass Rubbing Centre organized tours, 250 Amsterdam, 66, 91 (Edinburgh), 419 pharmacies, 239 Barcelona, 179–180 Brazen Head (Dublin), 392 restaurants, 242–246 Berlin, 226 Brewery tours, Copenhagen, shopping, 250–251 Bruges, 292 357 side trips from, 253–261 Budapest, 323 Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei sights and attractions, Copenhagen, 330, 356–357 Sospiri; Venice), 982 246–250 Drottningholm (Sweden), Brienz (Switzerland), 254 special and free events, 250 949 Brienz, Lake (Switzerland), taxis, 237 Dublin, 389 254 telephone, 238, 239 Haarlem, 99 Britannia (Edinburgh), 413 tipping, 239 Nice, 676 British Airways London Eye transportation, 237–238 Paris, 742 (London), 548 visitor information, 236 Roskilde (Denmark), 361 British Library (London), 539 worth a splurge, 236 the Spreewald, 233 British Museum (London), accommodations, 242 Stockholm, 945 539, 542 restaurants, 245–246 Venice, 957, 990 Brixton Market (London), Berne-Belp Airport, 236 Vienna, 1035 557 Berner Oberland Boboli Gardens (Florence), Brodie’s Close (Edinburgh), (Switzerland), 253, 254, 453, 464, 470 419 256–261 Boca do Inferno (Portugal), Bröhan Museum (Berlin), 216 Bern Historical Museum, 249 512 Bruegel, Pieter, the Elder Bernisches Historisches Bocca della Verità (Rome), and the Younger, 223, 282, Museum (Bern), 249 835–836 545, 594, 634, 831, 867, Berwaldhallen (Berwald Bois de Boulogne (Paris), 740 1029 Concert Hall; Stockholm), Bois de la Cambre Bruges (Brugge), 289–293 946 (Brussels), 284 Brunelleschi, Filippo, 457, Beule Gate (Athens), 128 458, 464, 466–469 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1046

1046 INDEX

Bruparck (Brussels), 283 Buda Hills (Hungary) Burgtheater (Vienna), 1037 Brussels, 3, 262–288 accommodations, 309 Burns’ Night (Edinburgh), accommodations, 269–272 restaurants, 313 418 arriving in, 263–266 Budai Vigadó (Budapest), 325 Bus travel, 27, 55 budget bests, 262 Budapest, 3, 294–328 Byzantine Museum (Athens), business hours, 266 accommodations, 306–311 134 cafes and bars, 288 American Express, 302 car rentals, 266 arriving in, 294–297 currency and currency babysitters, 302 C a’ d’Oro (Venice), exchange, 266–267 budget bests, 295 982–983 dance clubs, 287 business hours, 302 Café Central (Madrid), 607 deals and discounts car rentals, 302 Café Charbon (Paris), 721 accommodations, 269 churches and synagogues, Café de Flore (Paris), 721 restaurants, 273 318–319 Café de l’Opera (Barcelona), sightseeing, 280 coffeehouses, 314 184 special discounts, 263 currency and currency Café Jazz Populart (Madrid), doctors and dentists, 267 exchange, 302–303 607 embassies, 267 deals and discounts, 296 Caffè Chioggia (Venice), 993 emergencies, 267 accommodations, 308 Caffè Cibreo (Florence), 474 gay and lesbian clubs, 288 restaurants, 313 Caffè degli Artisti/Art Bar Internet access, 267 doctors, 303 (Florence), 474 laundry and dry cleaning, drugstores, 303 Caffè Florian (Venice), 992 267 embassies, 303 Caffè Quadri (Venice), mail and post offices, 268 emergencies, 303 992–993 nightlife, 287–288 gay and lesbian bars, 326 Calcio Storico (Florence), 463 organized tours, 285 Internet access, 303 Calder, Alexander, 360, 686, parks, 284 laundry and dry cleaning, 688 performing arts, 287 304 Calling cards, 19–21 pharmacies, 267 layout of, 298 Camden Markets (London), picnicking, 276–277 mail and post offices, 304 557 police, 268 nightlife, 324–326 Camden Passage Market restaurants, 272–277 organized tours, 323 (London), 558 quick bites, 275 parks and panoramas, Campanile di Giotto safety, 268 321, 323 (Florence), 457 shopping, 285–286 performing arts, 324–325 Campanile di San Marco side trip to Bruges, restaurants, 311–315 (Venice), 980 289–293 safety, 304 Campo de’ Fiori (Rome), sights and attractions, shopping, 323–324 797, 840, 843 277–285 side trip to Lake Balaton, accommodations around, special and free events, 282 326–328 797 taxes, 268 sights and attractions, bars and pubs around, 845 tax refund, 286 315–323 restaurants around, telephone, 268 special and free events, 320 807–808 country and city taxes, 304 Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa), codes, 266 taxis, 300 482 tipping, 268 telephone, 305–306 Campo Santa Margherita toilets, 268 tipping, 306 (Venice), 974, 993 walking, 266 transportation, 299–302 restaurants near, 972–973 worth a splurge, 263 visitor information, 297 Canal Grande (Grand Canal; accommodations, 272 walking tours, 323 Venice), 955, 989 restaurants, 277 worth a splurge, 296 Canal tours, Copenhagen, Brussels Card, 263 accommodations, 357 Brussels Fair, 282 310–311 Cannaregio (Venice), 955 Brussels National Airport, restaurants, 315 Cannes (France), 6, 689–691 263–264 Budapest History Museum, Canto do Camoes (Lisbon), Buckingham Palace 318 510 (London), 542–543 Budapesti Történeti Múzeum Cap d’Antibes (France), 687 Buda (Hungary), 298 (Budapest), 318 Capilla de Santa Llúcia accommodations, 308 Budapest Spring Festival, (Barcelona), 177 restaurant, 315 320 Capilla Real (Granada), 918 sights and attractions, 318 Bundeshaus (Bern), 246, 248 Capitoline Museums (Rome), Buda Concert Hall Burano (Italy), 956 835 (Budapest), 325 Burgmuseum (Salzburg), 866 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1047

INDEX 1047

Capitolino (Capitoline Hill; Casa Museo de Lope de Center for Acropolis Studies Rome), 835 Vega (Madrid), 599–600 (Athens), 130 Cappella Brancacci Casa-Museo Murillo Centraal Station (Florence), 469 (Seville), 903 (Amsterdam), 63 Cappella dei Bardi Casa-Museu Castell Gala accommodations, 70 (Florence), 468 Dalí (Púbol), 186–187 restaurants, 75–76 Cappella dei Magi Casa-Museu Dalí Port Lligat, Central (Budapest), 314 (Florence), 464 187 Central Cemetery (Vienna), Cappella dei Principi Casanova (Venice), 994 1033–1034 (Florence), 469 Casa Patas (Madrid), Central Station Cappella della Rosario 606–607 (Copenhagen), 330 (Venice), 990 Casa Real (Granada), 916 accommodations near, Cappella di Nicholas V (the Casa y Museo de El Greco 339–340 Vatican), 821 (Toledo), 611 Centre Belge de la Bande Cappella Filippo Strozzi Cascais (Portugal), 512 Dessinée (Brussels), 281 (Florence), 468 Castelo São Jorge (Lisbon), Centre de Cultura Cappella Gaddi (Florence), 502 Contemporània 468 Castle District (Budapest), (Barcelona), 172 Cappella Gondi (Florence), 298 Centre Excursionista de 468 accommodations, 309 Catalunya (Barcelona), 177 Cappella Maggiore restaurant, 313, 315 Centre Georges Pompidou (Florence), 468 Castle Hill (Budapest), 298 (Paris), 725 Cappella Pazzi (Florence), Castle Hill (Szigliget), 327 restaurants near, 720 467 Castle Kyburg (Switzerland), Centro Cultural de Belém Cappella Sistina (Sistine 254 (Lisbon), 506 Chapel; the Vatican), 818, Catacombe di San Callisto Centro de Arte Reina Sofía 821–823 (Rome), 839 (Madrid), 5, 600 Cappelle Medicee (Florence), Catacombe di San Domitilla Centro Vasco da Gama 467, 469 (Rome), 839 (Lisbon), 507 Cappellone degli Spagnoli Catacombes (Paris), 737 Ceramics Museum (Florence), 469 Catacombs of St. Peter’s (Barcelona), 174 Capuchin Crypt (Rome), Church (Salzburg), 868 Ceremony of the Keys 837–838 Cathédrale de Notre-Dame (London), 547 Caravaggio, 384, 459, 784, (Paris), 734 Cervecería Alemaña 818, 831, 835, 837, 1029 Cathedrals (Madrid), 607–608 Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice), 983 Barcelona (La Seu), 173 Cesk; Krumlov Château, 783 Carlsberg Brewery Bern, 248 Cézanne, Paul, 86, 216, (Copenhagen), 330, 357 Brussels, 284 220, 352, 545, 548, 638, Carlyle, Thomas, House Copenhagen, 354 729, 733 (London), 554 Córdoba, 910 Chagall, Marc, 86, 282, 568, Carnaval, Barcelona, 176 Dublin, 380, 385 686, 984 Carnavale, Nice, 676 Edinburgh, 420 Musée National Message Carnevale, Venice, 986 Fiesole, 475 Biblique Marc-Chagall Carnival, Munich, 641 Granada, 918 (Nice), 675 Carpet of Flowers (Brussels), Lisbon, 507 Champs-Elysées (Paris), 737 282 London, 545–546 restaurants, 721–722 Car rentals, 26–27 Lucca, 480 Changing of the Guard Carte Orange (Paris), 696 Monaco, 684 Copenhagen, 349 Car travel, 26–27 Paris, 734 London, 543 to Europe, 54–55 Prague, 771, 777 Stockholm, 941 Casa Alberto (Madrid), 608 Salzburg, 869 Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence), Casa de la Ciutat Seville, 899 684, 687 (Barcelona), 178 Siena, 478 Chapel of Nicholas V (the Casa de l’Ardiaca Stockholm, 942 Vatican), 821 (Barcelona), 177 Toledo, 611 Chapel of the Magi Casa del Campo (Madrid), Vienna, 1026 (Florence), 464 603 Cattedrale di San Martino Charioteer of Delphi Casa de Pilatos (Seville), 900 (Lucca), 480 (Delphi), 141 Casa di Giulietta (Verona), Cattedrale di San Romolo Charles Bridge (Prague), 996 (Fiesole), 475 754, 771 Casa Kolbe (Rome), 796 Cellphones, 47 Charles I Commemoration Casa Lonja/Archivo General (London), 552 de Indias (Seville), 901 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1048

1048 INDEX

Charlottenburg Palace Cité des Enfants (Paris), 728 hospitals, 335 (Berlin), 216–217 Cité des Sciences et de Internet access, 335 restaurant, 211 l’Industrie (Paris), 728 laundry and dry cleaning, sights and attractions, Cittie of Yorke (London), 563 335 213–217 The City (London), 517–518 layout of, 331–332 Châtelet, Théâtre Musical de restaurants, 533–534 mail and post offices, Paris, 745 City Park (Budapest), 323 335–336 Chelsea (London), 518, 556 City Ridacard (Edinburgh), newspapers and accommodations, 526 397 magazines, 336 Chelsea Flower Show Clan Tartan Centre nightlife, 357–359 (London), 552 (Edinburgh), 423 organized tours, 356–357 Chelsea Physic Garden Clock Tower (Bern), 246 parks and gardens, (London), 554–555 Clock Tower (Venice), 982 355–356 Chez Wayne (Nice), 678 Coach Museum (Lisbon), 506 performing arts, 358 Chicote (Madrid), 608 Cock (Madrid), 608 pharmacies, 336 Chief O’Neill’s (Dublin), 393 Collegiata church (San police, 336 The Chimney (Dublin), 388 Gimignano), 476 restaurants, 342–347 Chinese New Year (London), Collezione Peggy shopping, 357 552 Guggenheim (Venice), side trips from, 359–361 Chinese Pavilion 983–984 sights and attractions, (Stockholm), 949 Colosseo (Colosseum; 348–357 Chiostro Verde (Florence), Rome), 828 special and free events, 469 Columbus Monument 354 Chrám sv. Mikuláse (Prague), (Barcelona), 177 taxes, 336 777 Comédie-Française (Paris), taxis, 333 Christ Church Cathedral 745–746 telephone, 336 (Dublin), 380 Comic Opera (Berlin), 229 country and city codes, Christiania (Copenhagen), Concentration Camp 334 332, 354–355 Memorial (Dachau), tipping, 336 Christiansborg Slot 650–651 transportation, 332–334 (Christiansborg Palace; Concertgebouw visitor information, Copenhagen), 349, 352 (Amsterdam), 94 330–331 Christianshavn Conciergerie (Paris), worth a splurge, 331 (Copenhagen), 332 737–738 accommodations, Christmas markets Copenhagen, 3, 329–361 341–342 Berlin, 224, 228 accommodations, 336–342 restaurants, 346–347 Bern, 250, 251 private homes, Copenhagen Card, 331, 359 Munich, 645 337–338 Copenhagen Carnival, 354 Salzburg, 868 American Express, 334 Copenhagen Cathedral Stockholm, 942 arriving in, 329–330 (Copenhagen), 354 Churchill, Winston, bust of babysitters, 334 Copenhagen Jazz Festival, (Copenhagen), 349 banks, 334–335 354 Churchill Park (Copenhagen), bars, 358–359 Copenhagen Summer 355 budget bests, 330 Festival, 354 Church of Our Lady (Bruges), business hours, 335 Copenhagen Zoo, 355 292 car rentals, 334 Córdoba (Spain), 909–913 Church of St. Thomas currency and currency Corridoio Vasariano (Toledo), 611 exchange, 335 (Florence), 461 Cimabue, 459, 467, 468, 479 dance clubs, 359 Côte d’Azur, 652 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise deals and discounts Country and city codes, 20 (Paris), 738 accommodations, 337 Courtauld Institute Galleries Cimiez (France), 665, concerts and theater (London), 548 674–675 productions, 358 Court of the Lions Cimiez Church and restaurants, 343 (Granada), 917 Monastery/Franciscan sightseeing, 348 Covent Garden (London), Museum, 675 special discounts, 331 restaurants, 534–535 Cimitero Monumentale dei doctors and dentists, 335 Crafts Market (Brussels), 286 Frati Cappuccini (Rome), embassies, 335 Cranach, Lucas, 223, 282, 837–838 emergencies, 335 459, 634, 1029 Cirque Royal (Brussels), 287 gay and lesbian travelers Credit cards, 35 Cité de la Musique (Paris), accommodations, 341 Crystal Worlds (Innsbruck), 728 bars, 359 878 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1049

INDEX 1049

Cuevas de Pileta (Ronda), 913 Deutsches Museum embassies and consulates, Culinary schools, 60 (Munich), 5, 635, 638 369 Currency and currency Diana, Princess, 544–546, gay and lesbian bars, 393 exchange, 33–34 548, 549 hospitals, 369 Customs regulations, 17–19, Dickens, Charles, House Internet access, 369 33 (London), 554 laundry and dry cleaning, Cuvilliés Theater (Munich), Die Sammlung Berggruen: 369 646 Picasso und Seine Zeit layout of, 365–366 (Berlin), 216 nightlife, 391–394 Dirleton (Scotland), 427 organized tours, 389 D achau (Germany), Dirleton Castle (Scotland), performing arts, 391–392 650–651 427 pharmacies, 369 Dalí, Salvador, 224, 282, 413, Disabilities, travelers with, picnicking, 377 546, 568, 598, 600, 639, 39–40 police, 369 878, 984 Djurgården (Stockholm) post offices, 370 Casa-Museu Castell Gala restaurant, 935 pubs, 392–393 Dalí (Púbol), 186–187 sights and attractions, tours, 389 Teatre-Museu Dalí 936–937, 940 restaurants, 375–380 (Figueres), 187 Doge’s Ball (Venice), 984 shopping, 390–391 The Dam (Amsterdam), 64 Doge’s Palace (Venice), side trips from, 394–395 accommodations, 70 980–982 sights and attractions, Dandoy (Brussels), 285–286 Dohány Synagogue 380–389 Danish Museum of (Budapest), 318 special and free events, 387 Decorative Art Dom (Salzburg Cathedral), taxes, 370, 390 (Copenhagen), 353 869 taxis, 367 Danube River (Duna), 298 Domkirke (cathedral; telephone, 370 Darwin Maze (Edinburgh), Roskilde), 361 country and city 419 Domus Aurea (Rome), codes, 368 Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 392 828–829 tipping, 370 Daysaver Ticket (Edinburgh), Donatello, 458, 464, 466, transportation, 366–368 397 467, 988 visitor information, 365 Deals and discounts, Dora Stratou Folk Dance walking tours, 389 sightseeing, 319 Theater (Athens), 139 worth a splurge, 364 Dean Gallery (Edinburgh), Dorsoduro (Venice), 956 Dublin Castle, 381 413 accommodations near, Dublin Experience, 380 Dean Village (Edinburgh), 964–965 Dublinia (Dublin), 381 421–422 restaurants, 972–973 Dublin International De Boe (Brussels), 285 Driving rules, 27 Airport, 363 Decorative Art Museum Dr. Johnson’s House Dublin Woollen Mills, 391 (Barcelona), 174 (London), 554 Dublin Writers Museum, 381 Degas, Paul, 220, 352, 416, Drottningholm Palace Dublin Zoo, 388 503, 548, 598, 638, 672, (Stockholm), 949 Duomo 729, 943 Drottningholms Slottsteater Florence (Cathedral of Delacroix, 220, 250, 638 (Stockholm), 949 Santa Maria del Fiore), Del Diego (Madrid), 609 Dublin, 3, 362–395 457–458 Delft, 99–100 accommodations, 371–375 Lucca (Cattedrale di Delphi, 141–144 arriving in, 363–364 San Martino), 480 Den Hirschsprungske banks, 368 Siena, 478 Samling (Copenhagen), 353 budget bests, 363 Dürer, Albrecht, 223, 595, Den Lille Havfrue business hours, 368 634, 635, 831, 877, 1028, (Copenhagen), 3, 329, car rentals, 367–368 1029 330, 334, 348–349 currency and currency Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh), Dental Museum (Edinburgh), exchange, 368–369 413, 416 421 dance and live-music Det Kongelige Teater clubs, 393–394 (Copenhagen), 358 deals and discounts Earls Court (London) De Ultieme Hallucinatie accommodations, accommodations, 526–527 (Brussels), 288 372, 374 restaurant, 536 Deutsche Oper Berlin, 229 discount passes, 364 East End (London), 518 Deutsches Historisches restaurants, 376 restaurants, 536 Museum (German Historical sightseeing, 385 Museum; Berlin), 217, 218 doctors, 369 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1050

1050 INDEX

Easter Egg Market (Bern), Edinburgh International Estates’ Theater (Prague), 250 Festival, 418, 424 777, 780 East Side Gallery (Berlin), 221 Edinburgh International Film Estoril (Portugal), 512 Ecseri Használtcikk Piac Festival, 418 The Estoril Coast (Portugal), (Budapest), 324 Edinburgh International Jazz 511–512 Edinburgh, 4, 396–428 and Blues Festival, 418 Estudio John Fulton (Seville), accommodations, 401–407 Edinburgh Military Tattoo, 904 afternoon tea, 408 418 Ethnographical Museum arriving in, 397–398 Edinburgh Zoo, 419 (Budapest), 318 banks, 400 Educational travel, 60 Eton College (England), 568 budget bests, 396 Eglise et Monastère de Etruscan Museum (Rome), business hours, 400 Cimiez/Musée Franciscain, 831–832 car rentals, 399 675 Eurail passes, 23–24 consulates, 400 Eglise Orthodoxe Russe Eurostar train, 53–54 currency and currency (Nice), 671–672 Exhibition of the History of exchange, 400 Egyptian Museum (Berlin), Surgery (Edinburgh), 421 dance clubs, 426 213, 216 Explora (Paris), 728 deals and discounts Eiffel Tower (Paris), 735–736 Eze, 682 accommodations, 402 accommodations near, passes, 397 712–713 restaurants, 407 restaurants near, 723–724 Fado, Lisbon, 510 sightseeing, 412 Eiger (Switzerland), 256 Families with children, emergencies, 400 Einstein Haus (Bern), 248 42–43 gay and lesbian travelers Eircom Dublin Theatre Fasching (Munich), 641 bars, 426 Festival (Dublin), 387 Fasching (Stockholm), 947 guesthouse, 406 The Eixample (Barcelona) Fat Mo’s Music Club Internet access, 400 accommodations, 158–159 (Budapest), 325 laundry and dry cleaning, restaurants, 164–165 Feast Day of St. Anthony 400–401 Eklektika Café (Budapest), (Lisbon), 506 layout of, 398–399 326 Fél 10 Jazz Klub (Budapest), live-music clubs, 425 El Arenal (Seville) 325 nightlife, 424–426 accommodations, 889–890 Ferenc Liszt Academy of organized tours, 422–423 restaurants, 891–892 Music (Budapest), 325 parks and gardens, 422 El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), Ferret and Firkin (London), performing arts, 424 180 562–563 picnicking, 411 El Corte Inglés (Madrid), 604 Festa del Redentore pubs and bars, 425–426 El Greco, 173, 185, 416, 595, (Venice), 986 restaurants, 407–412 601, 602, 610, 902, 943 Festetics Mansion local budget bests, Casa y Museo de El Greco (Keszthely), 328 410–411 (Toledo), 611 Festin des Cougourdons shopping, 423 El Prat Airport (Barcelona), (Nice), 676 side trips from, 426–428 145–146 Festival del Gelato sights and attractions, El Tablao de Carmen (Florence), 450 412–423 (Barcelona), 182 Festival Internacional de special and free events, 418 El Tamboril (Seville), Jazz (Seville), 907 telephone, 401 906–907 Festival Theatre (Edinburgh), country and city E-mail, 21 424 codes, 399 Englischer Garten (Munich), Festspielhaus (Salzburg), 872 tipping, 401 616, 644 Festung Hohensalzburg transportation, 399 English Theater (Vienna), (Salzburg), 866–867 value-added tax (VAT) 1037 Fiesole (Italy), 475 refund, 423 English Theater Company Fiestas de la Mercé visitor information, 398 (Stockholm), 947 (Barcelona), 176 walking tours, 422 Enoteca Italiana Permanente Figarohaus (Vienna), 1033 worth a splurge, 397 (Siena), 479 Figueres (Spain), 187 accommodations, Entry requirements, 32–33 Filharmonikerna i 406–407 Epidauros Festival (Athens), Konserthuset (Stockholm), restaurants, 411–412 135 946 Edinburgh Airport, 397–398 Erechtheion (Athens), 128 Film Festival, Edinburgh Edinburgh Book Festival, 418 Eroica House (Vienna), 1033 International, 418 Edinburgh Castle, 412 Escorted tours, 56–57 Filmmuseum Berlin, 222 Edinburgh Festival Fringe, Estate Fiesolana, 463 Fine Arts Museum (Bern), 418 Estate Romana (Rome), 834 250 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1051

INDEX 1051

Flamenco, 606, 906–907 worth a splurge, 430 Friedrichstrasse (Berlin), Flannery’s Temple Bar accommodations, 192, 227 (Dublin), 393 444–446 Frihedsmuseet (Copen- Flea markets restaurants, 453 hagen), 353 Amsterdam, 93 Florence Dance Festival, 463 Frommers.com, 45 Athens, 137 Flower Market (Amsterdam), Frühlingsfest (Munich), 641 Berlin, 227 93 Fundació Antoni Tàpies Budapest, 324 Flower Market (Brussels), (Barcelona), 169 Copenhagen, 357 286 Fundació Joan Miró Madrid, 605 Flower Market (Nice), 677 (Barcelona), 172 Munich, 645 Focke & Meltzer Fundación Juan March Paris, 744 (Amsterdam), 92 (Madrid), 599, 606 Vienna, 1035 Folkart Háziipar (Budapest), Flex (Vienna), 1040 324 Florence, 4, 429–483 Fondation Maeght G ainsborough, Thomas, accommodations, 437–446 (St-Paul-de-Vence), 686 223, 416, 503, 545, 546, arriving in, 430–432 Fontana dei Nettuno 550, 601, 638 budget bests, 429 (Florence), 466 Galeries Lafayette (Paris), business hours, 435 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi 743 caffès, 474 (Rome), 840 Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa), car rentals, 435 Fontana delle Api (Rome), 431 churches, 466–470 841 Galleria Borghese (Rome), consulates, 435 Fontana del Tritone (Rome), 830–831 crime, 435 841 Galleria d’Arte Moderna cuisine and menu terms, Fontana di Trevi (Rome), 840 (Florence), 465 446–447 Food Market Temple Bar Galleria degli Uffizi deals and discounts, 430 (Dublin), 391 (Florence), 459–461 accommodations, 439 Foro di Traiano (Rome), Galleria dell’Accademia restaurants, 447 829–830 (Florence), 461 sightseeing, 456 Foro Romano (Rome), 824, Galleria dell’Accademia doctors and dentists, 436 826–828 (Venice), 984 drugstores, 436 Fortress Museum (Salzburg), Galleria Doria-Pamphilj emergencies, 436 866 (Rome), 831 gay and lesbian bars, Forum 2004 (Barcelona), 156 Galleria Giorgio Franchetti 474–475 Fountain of Four Rivers (Venice), 982–983 gelaterie, 450 (Rome), 840 Galleria Palatina (Florence), hospitals, 436 Fountain of the Bees 464–465 Internet access, 436–437 (Rome), 841 Gamla Stan (Old Town; laundry and dry cleaning, Fra Angelico, 250, 459, 462, Stockholm), 923 437 819, 821, 837 restaurant, 934–935 layout of, 433 Frank, Anne, 80–81 sights and attractions, mail and post offices, 437 Frans Halsmuseum 940–942 nightlife, 473–475 (Haarlem), 98 Garden on the Ramparts organized tours, 470–471 Frederiksberg (Prague), 779 picnicking, 452–453 (Copenhagen), 332 Gardens of Versailles, 750 police, 437 accommodations, 338, Gare de l’Est (Paris), restaurants, 446–453 340–341 accommodations near, 713 lunch, 451–452 Frederiksberg Park Gare du Midi (Brussels), 264 shopping, 471–473 (Copenhagen), 356 accommodations, 271 sights and attractions, Frederiksborg Castle Gasteig (Munich), 647 453–471 (Hillerod), 331 The Gate (Dublin), 392 reserving tickets for Frederiksborg Slot Gates of Paradise (Florence), museums, 459 (Frederiksborg Castle; 456, 458 special and free events, 463 Hillerod, Denmark), 360 Gatwick Airport (London), street numbering systems, Frederiks Kirke (Frederick’s 515 433 Church; Copenhagen), 349 Gaudí, Antoni, 160, 168, taxis, 434 Freud, Sigmund 173–175, 179 telephone, country and Museum (London), 549 Casa-Museu Gaudí city codes, 434 Museum (Vienna), 1031 (Barcelona), 179 transportation, 433 Friedrichshain (Berlin), 192, Gauguin, Paul, 84, 352, 416, visitor information, 432 230–231 638, 729, 940 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1052

1052 INDEX

Gay and lesbian travelers, Giovanni e Paolo, SS. Gruuthuse Museum (Bruges), 40–41 (Venice), 990 291 Amsterdam, 96–97 Giralda (Seville), 900 Guggenheim, Peggy, Athens, 140 Gladstone’s Land Collezione (Venice), Barcelona, 183 (Edinburgh), 419–420 983–984 Berlin, 231 Glasnevin Cemetery Guinness Storehouse Brussels, 288 (Dublin), 381, 384 (Dublin), 385–386 Budapest, 326 Glendalough (Ireland), 394 Gulbenkian Foundation Copenhagen Globen (Stockholm), 947 Museum (Lisbon), 503–504 accommodations, 341 Globe Theatre (London), 559 Gurten Festival (Bern), 250 bars, 359 Glyptothek (Munich), 642 Gustav III’s Museum of Dublin, 393 Goldenes Dachl (Innsbruck), Antiquities (Stockholm), Edinburgh, 426 876 941 guesthouse, 406 Golden House of Nero Guy Fawkes Day (London), Lisbon, 511 (Rome), 828–829 553 London, hotel, 528–529 Golden Lane (Prague), 774 Madrid, 609 Gondola rides, Venice, 989 Munich, 648 Goya, Francisco de, 416, H aarlem, 98–99 Nice, 665, 679 595, 601, 602, 638, 730, Hallen (Bruges), 289 Paris, 737 899–901 Hall of Mirrors (Munich), 639 clubs, 747–749 Panteón de Goya (Goya’s Hall of Mirrors (Versailles), Prague, 781 Tomb; Madrid), 602 749 Rome, 846 Grabrodre Torv (Gray Friar Hall of the Ambassadors Salzburg, 874 Square; Copenhagen), 354 (Granada), 916–917 Seville, 908 Grafton Street (Dublin), 365, Hallwylska Museet Stockholm, 948 390 (Stockholm), 943 Venice, 993 Granada (Spain), 914 Hamburger Bahnhof, Vienna, 1039 Grand Canal (Canal Grande; Museum für Gegenwart Gay Pride Parade (Madrid), Venice), 955, 989 (Berlin), 223 599 Grand Casino Kursaal (Bern), Hamlet (Versailles), 751 Gedenkstätte Heiligen- 252 Hans Makart (Salzburg), 868 städter Testament Grand-Place (Brussels) Harbor tours. See Boat tours (Vienna), 1033 accommodations, 269–270 and cruises Gefion Fountain (Copen- restaurants, 273–274 Harder Klum funicular hagen), 349 sights and attractions, 277, (Interlaken), 253 Geissbach (Switzerland), 254 280–281 Hard Rock Cafe (Munich), Gelateria delle Carrozze Grands Appartements 647 (Florence), 450 (Versailles), 749 Harrods (London), 556–557 Gellért Baths (Budapest), 322 Grand Trianon (Versailles), The Hash Marihuana & Gellért Hegy (Gellért Hill; 750–751 Hemp Museum Budapest), 321 Gran Teatre del Liceu (Amsterdam), 87 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin), (Barcelona), 181 Hauptbahnhof (Bern), 222–223 Gran Vía (Madrid) accommodations near, 242 Generalife (Granada), 917 accommodations on or Hauptbahnhof (Munich), 614 The George (Dublin), 393 near, 579–580 accommodations near, The George (London), 563 restaurants north of the, 623–626 Georgian House (Edinburgh), 586–587 restaurants near, 629–630 416 Great Aletsch (Switzerland), Hauptbahnhof (Salzburg), 848 Geranium Market (Bern), 250 259–260 accommodations near, Gerbeaud’s (Budapest), 314 Greek Folk Art Museum 857–858 German Historical Museum (Athens), 134 restaurants in or near, (Berlin), 217, 218 Greene’s Bookshop Ltd. 862–863 Gianicolo (Rome), 841 (Dublin), 390 Haus der 111 Biere (Munich), Giant’s Hall (Innsbruck), 877 Green Park (London), 553 648 Giardini Boboli (Florence), Grindelwald (Switzerland), Haus der Musik (Vienna), 464, 470 253, 256, 260–261 1032 Giardini Vaticani (the Groeninge Museum Haus der Natur (Salzburg), Vatican), 823 (Bruges), 290–291 869 Gilbert Collection (London), Grosser/Berliner Trödelmarkt Havel’s Market (Prague), 549 und Kunstmarkt (Berlin), 779–780 Giotto, 9, 458, 459, 467, 227 Haydn-Wohnhaus mit 468, 545, 784, 818 Grote Kerk (Haarlem), 98 Brahms-Gedenkraum Bell Tower (Florence), 457 (Vienna), 1033 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1053

INDEX 1053

Health concerns, 38–39 Homomonument Inner City Parish Church Health insurance, 38 (Amsterdam), 88, 90 (Budapest), 319 Heathrow Airport (London), Horseback riding tours, 59 Innsbruck, 8, 874–881 515 Hospital de la Santa Caridad Innsbruck Card, 876 Heeresgeschichtliches (Seville), 902 Insurance, 37–38 Museum (Vienna), 1028 Hospital de Venerables car rental, 26 Heilig-Bloedbasiliek Sacerdotes (Seville), 904 Interlaken (Switzerland), (Bruges), 290 Hostels, 14–15, 44 253–256 Hellbrunn Palace (Salzburg), Amsterdam, 72 International access codes, 20 867 Athens, 117 International Driving Helsingør (Elsinore; Barcelona, 156 Permit, 27 Denmark), 331, 359 Brussels, 269 International Film Festival Henry VII Chapel (London), Budapest, 309–310 (Berlin), 224 548 Copenhagen, 341 International Film Festival Hermitage Rooms (London), London, 529 (Cannes), 689 550 Paris, 715–716 International Jazz and Blues High Kirk of St. Giles Prague, 764 Festival, Edinburgh, 418 (Edinburgh), 420 Stockholm, 929–930 International Theatre Hiking Hôtel Crillon (Paris), 739–740 (Vienna), 1037 Bernese Oberland Hôtel des Invalides (Paris), Internet access, 46–47 (Switzerland), 259 738 Irish Cat Pub (Budapest), 325 Grindelwald (Switzerland), Hôtel de Ville (Brussels), 280 Irish Film Centre (Dublin), 386 260–261 Hotel R*ze (Cesk; Krumlov), Irish Museum of Modern Art Innsbruck, 879 782 (IMMA; Dublin), 386 Szigliget (Hungary), 327 House of Commons Irish Music Hall of Fame Hillerød (Denmark), 360 (London), 543, 544 (Dublin), 386 Hirschsprung Collection House of Lords (London), Itálica (Spain), 902 (Copenhagen), 353 543–544 Iveagh Gardens (Dublin), Historic Scotland Explorer House of the Vestal Virgins 388 Pass, 397 (Rome), 826–827 Historiska Museet Houses of Parliament (Stockholm), 943 (London), 543–544 Jamboree (Barcelona), 182 History Museum Hradcany Sternberk Palace James Joyce Centre (Stockholm), 943 (Prague), 774 (Dublin), 386 Hochschule Mozarteum Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery James Joyce Museum (Salzburg), 868 of Modern Art (Dublin), (Dublin), 387 Hofbräuhaus (Munich), 648 384 James Pringle Woollen Mill Hofburg Kaiserappartements Hundertwasser Haus (Edinburgh), 423 (Vienna), 1023–1024 (Vienna), 1028 Jane Austen Centre (Bath, Hofburg palace complex Hungarian National Gallery England), 566 (Vienna), 1023–1026 (Budapest), 318 Jane’s (Cannes), 691 Hofburg Silberkammer Hungarian National Museum Janiculum (Rome), 841 (Vienna), 1023–1024 (Budapest), 318 Jardin d’Acclimatation Hofkirche (Innsbruck), 877 Hungarian State Opera (Paris), 740 Hogmany (Edinburgh), 418 House (Budapest), 324 Jardín de Daraxa (Granada), Hohensalzburg Fortress 917 (Salzburg), 866–867, 872 Jardin des Tuileries (Paris), Hohenschwangau Castle Iglesia Santo Tomé 740 (Germany), 650 (Toledo), 611 Jardin du Luxembourg Holbein the Elder and the Ilaria del Carretto, marble (Paris), 740–741 Younger, 223, 545, 568, tomb of (Lucca), 480–481 Jardines de Machuca 730 Il Campo (Siena), 477 (Granada), 916 Holland Festival Il Ghetto (Venice), 986–987 Jardines de Murillo (Seville), (Amsterdam), 90 Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry 904 Hollókó (Hungary), 328 Museum (Athens), 134–135 Jardin Exotique (Monaco), Holocaust memorial (Berlin), Il Redentore (Venice), 985 683 217 Imperial Apartments Jardin Shakespeare (Paris), Holyroodhouse, Palace of (Vienna), 1023–1024 740 (Edinburgh), 412–413 Imperial Burial Vault Jardins St-Martin (Monaco), Holyrood Park (Edinburgh), (Vienna), 1026 684 422 Imperial Silver Collection Jazz and Blues Festival, Home exchanges, 59 (Vienna), 1023–1024 Edinburgh International, 418 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1054

1054 INDEX

Jazzclub Unterfahrt im Kantcentrum (Bruges), Koukaki (Athens) Einstein (Munich), 647 292–293 accommodations, 116–117 Jazz Festival (Bern), 250 Kapital (Madrid), 610 restaurant, 124 Jerónimos Monastery Kapuzinerkirche and Královská zahrada (Prague), (Lisbon), 502–503 Kaisergruft (Vienna), 779 Jewish Ghetto (Rome) 1026–1027 Krems, 1040–1041 accommodations around, Karen Blixen Museum Kreuzberg (Berlin), 192 797–798 (Rungstedlund), 331 accommodations, 205–206 restaurants around, Kastellet (Copenhagen), 355 bars, 230–231 807–808 Kastellet Park sights and attractions, Jewish Ghetto (Venice), (Copenhagen), 349 221–222 986–987 Kastrup Airport Kronborg Castle (Helsingor, Jewish Museum Berlin (Copenhagen), 329 Denmark), 331, 359 (Berlin), 221–222 Katarinahissen (Katarina Kultfabrik (Munich), 649 The Jewish Museum in Elevator; Stockholm), 944 Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern Prague (Prague), 775–776 Käthe-Kollwitz Museum (Stockholm), 947 Johann-Strauss-Wohnung (Berlin), 225 Kungliga Operan (Vienna), 1033 Keats-Shelley Memorial (Stockholm), 947 John Knox House House (Rome), 840 Kungliga Slottet (Edinburgh), 420 Kensington (London), 556 (Stockholm), 941 Johnson, Samuel, House Kensington Gardens Kungsholmen (Stockholm), (London), 554 (London), 544 942–943 Joods Historisch Museum Kensington Palace (London), Kunst & Antiekcentrum de (Amsterdam), 84–85 544 Looier (Amsterdam), 93 The Jordaan (Amsterdam), 65 Kenwood House (London), Kunstgewerbe Museum accommodations, 73–74 550 (Berlin), 223–224 restaurants, 78–79 Keszthely (Hungary), 327–328 Kunst.halle.Krems (Austria), Jordaan Festival Kew Gardens (near London), 1041 (Amsterdam), 90 555 KunstHausWien (Vienna), Joyce, James, 392, 539 Kilmainham Gaol Historical 1028 Bloomsday (Dublin), 387 Museum (Dublin), 384 Kunsthistorisches Museum Centre (Dublin), 386–387 Kina Slott (Stockholm), 949 (Vienna), 1029 Museum (Dublin), 387 Kindermuseum (Amsterdam) Kunstindustrimuseet Joy Eslava (Madrid), 609 TM Junior, 87 (Copenhagen), 353 Józsefvárosi Piac (Budapest), King’s Garden Kunstmuseum (Bern), 249, 324 (Copenhagen), 355 250 Juan-les-Pins (France), King’s Theatre (Edinburgh), Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm; 687–689 424 Berlin), 191, 192, 227 Judería (Córdoba), 910 Kinsk; Palace (Prague), 775 accommodations near, Jüdisches Museum Berlin Király Baths (Budapest), 322 200–203 (Berlin), 221–222 Klee, Paul, 216, 224, 235, pubs and bars, 230 Juliet’s House (Verona), 996 241, 250, 616, 643 restaurants, 206–210 Juliet’s Tomb (Verona), 996 Knox, John, House sights and attractions, Jungfraujoch (Switzerland), (Edinburgh), 420 225–226 253, 256, 259 København Hovedbane- Kurgarten (Salzburg), 870 gården (Central Station; Kyburg, Castle (Switzerland), Copenhagen), 330 254 KaDeWe (Berlin), 227 accommodations near, KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau Kaffee Alt Wien (Vienna), 339–340 (Germany), 650–651 1038 Kolonaki (Athens), Kaisariani Monastery restaurants in, 125 (Athens), 137 Komische Oper (Berlin), 229 La Carbonería (Seville), Kaiserappartements Kongens Have 907 (Innsbruck), 877 (Copenhagen), 355 Lace Center (Bruges), Kaiserliche Hofburg Koninginnedag 292–293 (Innsbruck), 877 (Amsterdam), 90 La Chocolatería de San Kaiser-Wilhelm Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles Ginés (Madrid), 610 Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser (Delft), 100 La Fenice (Venice), 8, Wilhelm Memorial Church; Koninklijk Paleis 991–992 Berlin), 225, 230 (Amsterdam), 88 restaurants near, 971–972 Kalke Village (Vienna), 1028 Koninklijk Theater Carré La Fídula (Madrid), 608 Kandinsky, Wassily, 250, 616, (Amsterdam), 94 643, 686, 983, 1030 Konzerthaus Berlin, 230 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1055

INDEX 1055

La Fontana de Oro (Madrid), Leonardo da Vinci, 459, 470, special and free events, 506 608 601, 730, 818, 820, 1028 taxis, 488 La Giudecca (Venice), 956 Leonardo da Vinci telephone, 490–491 La Grande Arche de la International Airport country and city Défense (Paris), 740 (Rome), 784–785 codes, 489 La Macarena (Seville), Leopold Museum (Vienna), tipping, 491 accommodations, 890–891 1029 transportation, 487–488 Lamb & Flag (London), 563 Le Roy d’Espagne (Brussels), visitor information, 486 Lambert van Meerten 288 worth a splurge, 485 (Delft), 99–100 Lesbian and Gay Street accommodations, Land-huis van het Brugse Festival (Berlin), 224 494–495 Vrije (Bruges), 290 Les Deux Magots (Paris), 721 restaurants, 501 La Negra Tomasa (Madrid), Les Egouts (Paris), 738–739 The Little Mermaid (Copen- 610 Liberty (London), 557 hagen), 3, 329, 330, 334, La Pedrera (Barcelona), 175 Libreria Piccolomini (Siena), 348–349 L’Aquàrium (Barcelona), 176 478–479 Livrustkammaren La Rambla (Barcelona), 149, Lidingö (Stockholm), 944 (Stockholm), 941 173 Lido di Venezia, 956 Loeser Collections accommodations, 159–160 Liechtenstein Museum (Florence), 466 restaurants, 165–166 (Vienna), 9, 1029 Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence), L’Arbre d’Or (Brussels), 280 Liffey, River (Dublin), 365 466 La Real Maestranza de Linlithgow (Scotland), London, 4–5, 514–565 Caballería (Seville), 903 426–427 accommodations, 522–531 Larios Café (Madrid), 610 Linlithgow Palace hostels, 529 La Samaritaine (Paris), 744 (Scotland), 427 afternoon tea, 534 Las Bravas (Madrid), 607 Lippizaner Museum arriving in, 515–516 La Seu (cathedral; (Vienna), 1025 babysitters, 520 Barcelona), 173, 177 Lisboa à Noite (Lisbon), 510 banks, 520–521 Las Golondrinas (Barcelona), Lisboa Card, 485 budget bests, 515 177, 179–180 Lisbon, 4, 484–513 accommodations, 530 La Sinagoga (Córdoba), accommodations, 491–495 restaurants, 537 911–912 addresses, 489 business hours, 521 Laterna Magika (Prague), arriving in, 486 car rentals, 520 780–781 banks and ATMs, 489 currency and currency Latin Quarter (Paris) budget bests, 484 exchange, 521 accommodations, 707–709 business hours, 489 dance clubs, 563–564 restaurants, 718–719 car rentals, 488 deals and discounts, 516 La Trofée des Alpes (France), dance clubs, 511 accommodations, 525 682 deals and discounts, 485 restaurants, 533 La Turbie, 682 restaurants, 496 sightseeing, 542 L’Auditori (Barcelona), sightseeing, 502 drugstores, 521 181–182 doctors, 489 embassies and high Lauterbrunnen Valley embassies, 489–490 commissions, 521 (Switzerland), 256 emergencies, 490 emergencies, 521 La Voile Rouge (St-Tropez), gay and lesbian bars, 511 gay and lesbian travelers 692 Internet access, 490 clubs, 564–565 Leaning Tower of Pisa (Italy), laundry, 490 hotel, 528–529 4, 482–483 layout of, 487 Internet access, 521 Le Bar des Oiseaux (Nice), 678 mail and post offices, 490 layout of, 517–518 Le Boutique des Vins neighborhoods, 487 live-music clubs, 561–562 (Budapest), 296 nightlife, 509–511 mail and post offices, 522 Le Château (Nice), 672 organized tours, 508 nightlife, 558–565 Le Cirio (Brussels), 288 parks and gardens, organized tours, 555–556 Le Cygne (Brussels), 280 507–508 parks and gardens, Le Fleur en Papier Doré performing arts, 509–510 552–555 (Brussels), 288 picnicking, 501 performing arts, 558–561 Leidseplein (Amsterdam), restaurants, 495–501 picnicking, 538 64, 93, 95 fast food, 501 police, 522 accommodations around, 72 shopping, 508–509 pubs, 562–563 restaurants, 78 side trips from, 511–513 restaurants, 531–539 Le Mississippi (Nice), 679 sights and attractions, chains, 536–538 501–508 shopping, 556–558 side trips from, 565–568 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1056

1056 INDEX

London (cont.) deals and discounts, Marché aux Fleurs (Nice), 677 sights and attractions, 570–571 Marché aux Puces de la 539–556 accommodations, 580 Porte de St-Ouen (Paris), literary sights, 554 restaurants, 586 744 special and free events, sightseeing, 594 Maremagnum (Barcelona), 552–553 doctors and dentists, 576 177 taxis, 519 emergencies, 577 Margaret Island (Margit- telephone, 522 gay and lesbian bars, 609 sziget; Budapest), 298, 321 country and city holidays, 577 Marienplatz (Munich), 616 codes, 520 hospitals, 577 Maritime Museum tipping, 522 Internet access, 577 (Barcelona), 175 transportation, 518–520 layout of, 572–573 Maritime Museum (Lisbon), visitor information, 517 mail and post offices, 577 504 worth a splurge, 516 nightlife, 605–610 Market Halls (Bruges), 289 accommodations, organized tours, 603–604 Markets. See also Christmas 529–531 parks and gardens, 603 markets; Flea markets restaurants, 538–539 performing arts, 605–607 Amsterdam, 93 London Bar (Barcelona), 182 picnicking, 593 Barcelona, 181 London Coliseum, 560 restaurants, 584–593 Berlin, 227–228 London Dungeon, 550 chains, 593 Bern, 250, 251 The Long Hall (Dublin), tapas, 589 Bruges, 289 392–393 shopping, 604–605 Brussels, 286 Lord Mayor’s Show side trip to Toledo, 610–612 Budapest, 324 (London), 553 sights and attractions, Copenhagen, 357 LoSt-luggage insurance, 38 594–604 Dublin, 391 Los Gabrieles (Madrid), 608 special and free events, 599 Florence, 472–473 Los Gallos (Seville), 907 taxis, 573 London, 557–558 Louisiana Museum for telephone, 577–578 Nice, 677 “Moderne Kunst country and city Paris, 744 (Humlebaek), 360 codes, 575 Rome, 843 Louisiana Museum of tipping, 578 Salzburg, 871 Modern Art (Humlebaek), transportation, 573–575 Venice, 990 331 visitor information, Markets of Trajan (Rome), The Louvre (Paris), 730–731 571–572 829–830 restaurants at or near, 722 worth a splurge, 571 Marks & Spencer (London), Love Parade (Berlin), 224 accommodations, 557 Lübbenau, 233–234 583–584 Marstallmuseum (Munich), Lucca (Italy), 480–481 restaurants, 591 638, 639 Lucia (Stockholm), 942 Madrid Theater Festival, 599 Masaccio, 459, 468, 469, 545 Lykavitos, Mount Magdalenenklause (Munich), Matisse, Henri, 86, 216, 250, (Lycabettus; Athens), 137 639 282, 353, 416, 546, 675, Lykavitos Festival (Athens), Maggio Musicale (Florence), 692, 733, 823, 944 135 463 Chapelle du Rosaire Magyar Allami Operaház (Vence), 686, 687 (Budapest), 324 Musée (Cimiez), 675 M adách Theater Maison Antoine (Brussels), Matra Hill (Hungary), 328 (Budapest), 325 285 Matthias Church (Budapest), Madame Tussaud’s (London), Maison des Ducs de Brabant 319 550 (Brussels), 280 Mátyás Templom (Budapest), Madrid, 5, 569–612 Mak-Österreichisches 319 accommodations, 578–584 Museum für Angewandte Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella arriving in, 569–575 Kunst (Vienna), 1030 (Rome), 838–839 babysitters, 575 Makriyanni (Athens) Maximilianeum (Innsbruck), bars and pubs, 607–608 accommodations, 116–117 876 budget bests, 572 restaurant, 124 Medeltidsmuseet business hours, 575–576 Manet, Édouard, 86, 352, (Stockholm), 941 cafes, 592–593 548, 598, 638, 729, 732, Medical insurance, 38 cocktail lounges, 608–609 1030 Medici Chapels (Florence), consulates, 576 Manneken-Pis (Brussels), 281 467, 469 currency and currency The Marais (Paris) Megaron Mousikis Concert exchange, 576 accommodations, 710–712 Hall (Athens), 138 dance clubs, 609–610 restaurants in or near, 723 Melina Mercouri Cultural Center (Athens), 136 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1057

INDEX 1057

Memling, Hans, 282, 291 Mondrian, Piet, 86, 223, 598, Münchener Tierpark Museum (Bruges), 984 Hellabrunn (Munich), 644 291–292 Monet, Claude, 84, 86, 220, Münchner Stadtmuseum Mercati Traiani (Rome), 352, 360, 416, 503, 545, (Munich), 642–643 829–830 548, 598, 638, 672, 729, Munich, 5–6, 613–651 Mercato Centrale (Florence), 1030 accommodations, 623–629 452, 472–473 Musée Marmottan Monet American Express, 619 Mercato del Porcellino (Paris), 732 arriving in, 613–614 (Florence), 473 Money matters, 33–37 banks, 619–620 Mercato Rialto (Venice), 974 Money-saving tips and bars, 648–649 Mercato San Lorenzo discounts beer gardens, 633 (Florence), 429, 433, 437 $85-a-day premise, 10 beer halls, 647–648 accommodations, 440–443 accommodations, 11, budget bests, 614 restaurants near, 448–449 14–15 business hours, 620 Merlin Theater (Budapest), Mons Meg (Edinburgh), 412 car rentals, 619 325 Monte Carlo (Monaco), 683 consulates, 620 Merry Theater (Budapest), Monteleón (Madrid), 607 dance clubs, 649 325 Montmartre (Paris) deals and discounts, 615 Mestre (Italy), 956 accommodations near, accommodations, 624 Mexuar (Granada), 916 713–714 restaurants, 630 Mezquita (Córdoba), 909 restaurants, 724 doctors and dentists, 620 Mezquita-Catedral Montparnasse (Paris), emergencies, 620 (Córdoba), 910 accommodations, 714–715 gay and lesbian bars, Michelangelo, 292, 456 Montserrat Monastery (near 648–649 in Florence, 458, 459, Barcelona), 184–185 hospitals, 620–621 461–463, 466, 467, Monument à Colom Internet access, 621 469, 470 (Barcelona), 177 laundry and dry cleaning, in Rome and the Vatican, Monumento dos 621 815, 818–823, 830, 832, Descobrimentos (Lisbon), layout of, 616 835–837 506 mail and post offices, 621 Mihrab (Córdoba), 910 Monument of the nightlife, 646–649 Milchbach (Switzerland), 260 Discoveries (Lisbon), 506 organized tours, 644–645 Millennium Bridge (London), Monymusk Reliquary performing arts, 646–647 546 (Edinburgh), 416 pharmacies, 621 Millesgården (Stockholm), Moore Street Market picnicking, 633–634 944 (Dublin), 391 restaurants, 629–634 Mini-Europe (Brussels), 283 Morrison’s Music Pub shopping, 645 Mirabellgarten (Salzburg), (Budapest), 325 side trips from, 649–651 870 Moses Maimónides, statue sights and attractions, Mirador de San Nicolás of (Córdoba), 911 634–645 (Granada), 918 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos special and free events, 641 Miró, Joan, 160, 282, 416, (Lisbon), 502–503 taxes, 622 600, 686, 688, 984 Mother Red Caps Market taxis, 619 Fundació Joan Miró (Dublin), 391 telephone, 622 (Barcelona), 172 Moulin Rouge (Paris), 746 country and city Moderna Museet Mount Lykavitos codes, 619 (Stockholm), 8, 944 (Lycabettus; Athens), 137 tipping, 622 Moll d’Espanya, Port Vell Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus transportation, 616–619 (Old Port; Barcelona), dinner shows (Salzburg), visitor information, 614 176–177 873 worth a splurge, 615 Monaco, 682–686 Figarohaus (Vienna), 1033 accommodations, Monaghan’s (Dublin), 391 Geburtshaus (Mozart’s 628–629 Monasterio de las Descalzas Birthplace; Salzburg), 864 restaurants, 634 Reales (Madrid), 594 Mozart-Wohnhaus Munich Welcome Card, 615, Monastiraki Square (Athens) (Mozart’s Residence; 618 accommodations near, Salzburg), 864, 866 Munich Zoo, 644 114–116 Museum (Prague), 777 Münster (Bern), 248 restaurants, 123–124 Mozarteum (Salzburg), 872 Murano (Italy), 956 Mönch (Switzerland), 256 Mühlenstrasse (Berlin), 221 Murillo, Bartolomé Estéban, Mönchsberg Lift (Salzburg), MUMOK (Museum of 223, 552, 595, 601, 602, 870 Modern Art Stiftung Ludwig 635, 730, 899, 902 Wien; Vienna), 1030 Mürren (Switzerland), 253, 256, 257–259 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1058

1058 INDEX

Musée Archéologique Musée National Message Museo Municipal de Arte (St-André), 688 Biblique Marc-Chagall Taurino (Córdoba), 910–911 Musée Carnavalet-Histoire (Nice), 675 Museo Nazionale del de Paris (Paris), 728 Musée Picasso (Paris), 733 Bargello (Florence), Musée d’Anthropologie Musées Royaux des 462–464 Préhistorique (Monaco), Beaux-Arts (Brussels), 282 Museo Nazionale Romano- 683 Museet for Samtidskunst Palazzo Altemps (Rome), Musée d’Archéologie (Nice), (Roskilde), 361 833 675 Musei Capitolini (Rome), 835 Museo Nazionale Romano- Musée d’Art Ancien Musei di Piazza San Marco Palazzo Massimo alle (Brussels), 282 (Venice), 952 Terme (Rome), 833, 835 Musée d’Art Moderne Musei Vaticani (the Vatican), Museo Nazionale Romano- (Brussels), 282 818–823 Terme di Diocleziano Musée d’Art Moderne et Museo Arqueológico (Rome), 832–833 d’Art Contemporain (Seville), 902 Museo Palatino (Rome), 827 (Nice), 672 Museo Arqueológico Museo Pio-Clementino (the Musée de la Castre (Cannes), Nacional (Madrid), Vatican), 823 689–690 594–595 Museo Romántico (Madrid), Musée de la Mer (Cannes), Museo Bardini (Fiesole), 475 601 690 Museo Civico (Fiesole), 475 Museo Santa Cruz (Toledo), Musée de la Musique (Paris), Museo Civico (San 611 728 Gimignano), 476 Museo Sorolla (Madrid), 602 Musée de l’Armée (Paris), 738 Museo Civico (Siena), 478 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza Musée de la Trofée des Museo Comunità Ebraica (Madrid), 5, 598 Alpes (La Turbie), 682 (Venice), 986–987 accommodations near, 579 Musée de la Ville de Museo Correr (Venice), 980 restaurants near, 585–586 Bruxelles (Brussels), Museo de América (Madrid), Museu Barbier-Mueller 280–281 600 (Barcelona), 175 Musée de l’Océanographie Museo de Artes Decorativas Museu Cau Ferrat (Sitges), (Monaco), 684 (Madrid), 600–601 185 Musée de St-Tropez, 692 Museo de Artes y Museu da Fundação Musée des Beaux-Arts Costumbres Populares Calouste Gulbenkian (Nice), 672 (Seville), 902 (Lisbon), 503–504 Musée d’Orsay (Paris), Museo de Bellas Artes Museu da Marinha (Lisbon), 729–730 (Seville), 902–903 504 Musée du Cinquantenaire Museo degli Argenti Museu d’Art Contemporàni (Brussels), 283 (Florence), 465 (MACBA; Barcelona), 172 Musée du Louvre (Paris), Museo del’ 700 (Venice), Museu d’Art Modern del 730–731 983 MNAC (Barcelona), 174 restaurants at or near, 722 Museo della Casa Museu de Arte Popular Musée Guimet (Paris), 731 Buonarroti (Florence), 462 (Lisbon), 504 Musée Horta (Brussels), 281 Museo dell’Opera del Museu de Cerámicà/Museu Musée Jacquemart-André Duomo (Florence), 458 de les Arts Decoratives (Paris), 731–732 Museo dell’Opera Metropol- (Barcelona), 174 Musée l’Annonciade itana (Siena), 478, 479 Museu del Temple (St-Tropez), 692 Museo del Prado (Madrid), (Barcelona), 174 Musée Marmottan Monet 5, 595, 598 Museu de Montserrat, 185 (Paris), 732 accommodations near, 579 Museu d’Historia de la Musée Masséna (Nice), 672, restaurants near, 585–586 Ciutat (Barcelona), 174, 179 674 Museo di San Marco Museu do Centro de Arte Musée Matisse (Cimiez), 675 (Florence), 462 Moderna (Lisbon), 503 Musée Napoléonien et des Museo di Santa Maria Museu do Chiado (Lisbon), Archives du Palais Novella (Florence), 469 504 (Monaco), 683 Museo Etrusco-Villa Giulia Museu-Escola de Artes Musée National (Monaco), (Rome), 831–832 Decorativas Portuguesas 684 Museo Faesulanum (Fiesole), (Lisbon), 504 Musée National Auguste- 475 Museu Frederic Marès Rodin (Paris), 732–733 Museo Lázaro Galdiano (Barcelona), 179 Musée National du Moyen (Madrid), 5, 601 Museu Maricel de Mar Age/Thermes de Cluny Museo Municipal (Madrid), (Sitges), 185–186 (Paris), 733 601 Museu Marítim (Barcelona), 175 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1059

INDEX 1059

Museum der Moderne Museum of the History of National Gallery of Modern Salzburg, 7, 870 the City (Barcelona), 174 Art (Edinburgh), 416 Museum Erotica Museu-Monestir de National Gallery of Scotland (Copenhagen), 353 Pedralbes (Barcelona), 175 (Edinburgh), 416 Museum for Contemporary Museumplein (Amsterdam), National Garden (Athens), Art (Berlin), 223 64 136–137 Museum fur Kommunikation accommodations, 72–73 The National Monument (Bern), 249 Museum School of (Edinburgh), 417 Museum Haus am Decorative Arts (Lisbon), Nationalmuseet (National Checkpoint Charlie 504 Museum; Copenhagen), 352 (Berlin), 221, 222 Museumsinsel (Museum Nationalmuseet (Stockholm), Museum Het Rembrandthuis Island; Berlin), 192 943 (Amsterdam), 85 Museu Nacional d’Art de National Museum (Dublin), Museum Kampa (Prague), 7, Catalunya (Barcelona), 384 776 172–173 National Museum (Prague), Museum of 18th-Century Museu Nacional de Arte 776 Venice, 983 Antiga (Lisbon), 504 National Museum of Catalan Museum of Applied Arts Museu Nacional dos Coches Art (Barcelona), 172–173 (Berlin), 223–224 (Lisbon), 506 National Museum of Fine Museum of Architecture Museu Picasso (Barcelona), Arts (Stockholm), 943 (Stockholm), 944 169 National Portrait Gallery Museum of Childhood Museu Tèxtil i d’Indumentària (Edinburgh), 417 (Edinburgh), 420 (Barcelona), 175 National Portrait Gallery Museum of Communication Musical May (Florence), 463 (London), 545 (Bern), 249 Music and Light Show National Sound Archive Museum of Contemporary (Brussels), 282 (London), 539 Art (Roskilde), 361 Múvész Kávéház (Budapest), Nationaltheater (Munich), Museum of Danish Resistance 314 646 (Copenhagen), 353 Muzeum Alfonse Muchy National Theater (Prague), Museum of Edinburgh, 420 (Prague), 775 780 Museum of Fine Arts Muziekgebouw (Amsterdam), Natural History Museum (Vienna), 1029 1, 95 (Bern), 249 Museum of Greek Popular Muziektheater (Amsterdam), Natural History Museum Musical Instruments 94 (Dublin), 385 (Athens), 135–136 Mystery Bar (Budapest), 326 Naturhistoriches Museum Museum of London, (Bern), 249 550–551 Nefertiti, Queen, bust of Museum of Medieval Art N achtcafe (Munich), 647 (Berlin), 213 (Vienna), 1031 Nagy Cirkusz (Budapest), 321 Nelson Monument Museum of Medieval Námêstí Míru (Prague), (Edinburgh), 417 Stockholm, 941 accommodations near, 763 Nemzeti Galéria (Budapest), Museum of Military History Napoleon’s Tomb (Paris), 738 318 (Vienna), 1028 Národní divadlo (Prague), Nemzeti Múzeum Museum of Modern Art 780 (Budapest), 318 (Lisbon), 503 Národní Galerie (Prague), 774 The neo-Gothic Maison du Museum of Modern Art Národní muzeum (Prague), Roi (Brussels), 280 (Stockholm), 944 776 Néprajzi Múzeum Museum of Modern Art National Archaeological (Budapest), 318 Stiftung Ludwig Wien Museum (Athens), 1, 131 Netherlands Dance Theater (MUMOK; Vienna), 1030 National Biblical Message (Amsterdam), 94 Museum of Natural History Marc Chagall Museum Neue Nationalgalerie (Salzburg), 869 (Nice), 675 (Berlin), 224–225 Museum of Nymphenburg National Botanic Gardens Neue Pinakothek (Munich), Porcelain (Munich), 639 (Dublin), 388 638 Museum of Scotland National Concert Hall Neues Palais (Potsdam), 233 (Edinburgh), 416 (Dublin), 387, 392 Neue Wache (Berlin), 217 Museum of Textiles and National Day (Brussels), 282 Neuschwanstein (Germany), Industry (Barcelona), 175 National Gallery (London), 6, 649–650 Museum of the City of 545 Newgrange (Ireland), Brussels, 280–281 National Gallery (Prague), 394–395 Museum of the Duomo 774, 775 New National Gallery (Florence), 458 National Gallery of Ireland (Berlin), 224–225 (Dublin), 384 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1060

1060 INDEX

New York (Munich), 649 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Oude Kerk (Amsterdam), 88 Nice, 6, 652–693 (Copenhagen), 352 Oude Kerk (Delft), 99 accommodations, 659–666 Nyhavn (Copenhagen), Outlook Tower and Camera arriving in, 652–655 331–332, 354 Obscura (Edinburgh), budget bests, 653 restaurants, 346 420–421 business hours, 657 Nymphenburg Palace Out on the Liffey (Dublin), car rentals, 656–657 (Munich), 638–639 393 consulates, 658 Nymphenburg Park currency and currency (Munich), 644 exchange, 658 Package tours, 14, 55 deals and discounts, 654 Paddington (London), accommodations, 661 O berhofen Castle accommodations, 523–524 restaurants, 667 (Switzerland), 254 Padova, 9 sightseeing, 674 Obuda (Budapest), Pagodenburg (Munich), 639 emergencies, 658 restaurant, 313 Palace of Holyroodhouse gay and lesbian travelers Obuda (Hungary), 298 (Edinburgh), 412–413 bars, 679 Oceanário de Lisboa Palace of the Liberty of hotel, 665 (Oceanarium; Lisbon), 507 Bruges, 290 Internet access, 658 O’Connell Street (Dublin), Palácio da Pena (Portugal), laundry, 658 365, 390 513 layout of, 655–656 O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 393 Palacio de San Telmo mail and post offices, 658 Okresní muzeum (Cesk; (Seville), 904 nightlife, 677–679 Krumlov), 782 Palácio dos Seteais organized tours, 676 Oktoberfest (Munich), 641 (Portugal), 513 picnicking, 670 The Old Jameson Distillery Palacio Gaviria (Madrid), 610 restaurants, 666–671 (Dublin), 387–388 Palacio Nacional de Sintra shopping, 676–677 Old Jewish Cemetery (Portugal), 513 side trips from, 679–693 (Prague), 776–777 Palacio Real (Madrid), sights and attractions, Old Man’s (Budapest), 325 598–599 671–676 Old Market (Brussels), 286 Palác Kinsk;ch (Prague), 775 special and free events, 676 Old-New Synagogue Pala d’Oro (Venice), 977 street eats, 666 (Prague), 777 Palais du Luxembourg taxes, 659 Oliver St. John Gogarty (Paris), 741 telephone, 659 (Dublin), 393 Palais du Prince (Monaco), country and city Oltrarno (Florence), 433 683 codes, 657 accommodations, 443–444 Palais Lascaris (Nice), 674 transportation, 656–657 Ommegang (Brussels), 282 Palæsamlingerne (Palace visitor information, 655 Omonia Square (Athens) Collections; Roskilde), 361 worth a splurge, 654 accommodations near, Palatine Museum (Rome), 827 accommodations, 117–118 Palatino (Palatine Hill; 665–666 restaurants near, 124–125 Rome), 827 restaurants, 670–671 Onion Market (Bern), 250, Palau Dalmases (Barcelona), Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam), 88 251 184 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft), 99 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk Palau de la Generalitat Nightlife, 19 (Bruges), 292 (Barcelona), 178 Nikolai Quarter (Berlin), 192, Opéra Bastille (Paris), 745 Palau de la Música Catalana 217 Opéra de Nice, 677 (Barcelona), 181 NK (Nordiska Kompaniet; Opéra Garnier (Paris), 745 Palau d’Esports (Barcelona), Stockholm), 945 restaurant, 722 182 Nobel Prizes (Stockholm), 942 The Orangery (London), 545 Palazzo Ducale (Venice), Normaal Amsterdams Peil Orsay Museum (Paris), 980–982 (Normal Amsterdam 729–730 Palazzo Medici-Riccardi Level), 62 Ørsteds Parken (Florence), 464 Norrmalm (Stockholm), 923 (Copenhagen), 356 Palazzo Pitti (Florence), restaurants, 932–934 Oscar Bar & Café 464–465 sights and attractions, 943 (Copenhagen), 359 Palazzo Pubblico (Siena), 477 Notre-Dame, Cathédrale de Östermalm (Stockholm) Palazzo Vecchio (Florence), (Paris), 734 restaurants, 932–934 465–466 Notting Hill Carnival sights and attractions, 943 Pam Pam (Juan-les-Pins), 689 (London), 553 Österreichische Galerie Panteón de Goya (Goya’s N. P. Goulandris Foundation Belvedere (Vienna), Tomb; Madrid), 602 Museum of Cycladic Art 1030–1031 (Athens), 131 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1061

INDEX 1061

Pantheon (Rome), 830 restaurants, 717–725 The Peacock (Dublin), accommodations around, restrooms, 705 391–392 798–799 shopping, 743–744 Peblinge (Copenhagen), 356 bars and pubs around, 845 side trip to Versailles, Pedralbes Museum- restaurants around, 809 749–751 Monastery (Barcelona), 175 Panthéon (Paris), 739 sights and attractions, The People’s Story Papa Benz (Munich), 648 725–742 (Edinburgh), 421 Papal audiences, 820 smoking, 705 Pepsi Island (Pepsi-sziget; Papal Crypt (the Vatican), 815 special and free events, Budapest), 320 Paradis Latin (Paris), 746 729, 736–737 Père-Lachaise, Cimetière du Parc de Bagatelle (Paris), 740 street eats, 719 (Paris), 738 Parc de Bruxelles (Brussels), taxis, 702 Pergamon Museum (Berlin), 284 telephone, 705–706 218 Parc du Champ-de-Mars country and city Pest (Hungary), 298 (Paris), 736 codes, 702 accommodations, 307–308, Parc du Cinquantenaire tipping, 706 312–313 (Brussels), 282–283 transportation, 700–703 sights and attractions, 315, Parc Floral de Paris (Paris), visitor information, 699 318 741 worth a splurge, 697 Petits Appartements Parc Güell (Barcelona), 179 accommodations, (Versailles), 749 Parc Monceau (Paris), 741 716–717 Petit Trianon (Versailles), 751 Parco della Musica (Rome), restaurants, 724–725 Philharmonie (Berlin), 230 7, 844 Park of the Citadel Phoenix Park (Dublin), 388 Paris, 6, 694–751 (Copenhagen), 355 Phone cards, prepaid, 19 accommodations, 706–717 Parliament (Berlin), 220 Piazza Barberini (Rome), 841 hostels, 715–716 Parliament (Bern), 246, 248 accommodations around, airport shuttles, 698 Parliament (Budapest), 315, 800–801 American Express, 703 318 Piazza dei Signori (Piazza arriving in, 694–698 Parliament, Houses of Dante; Verona), 996 budget bests, 695 (London), 543–544 Piazza del Campo (Siena), business hours, 703 Parque das Naçoes (Lisbon), 477 cafes, 721 507 Piazza del Duomo car rentals, 702 Parque de Atracciones (San Gimignano), 476 currency and currency (Madrid), 602 Piazza delle Erbe (Verona), exchange, 703 Parque de la Montaña 996 dance clubs, 748–749 (Madrid), 603 Piazza del Popolo (Rome) deals and discounts, Parque del Retiro (Madrid), accommodations around, 696–697 603 799–800 accommodations, 708 Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon), bars and pubs around, 845 restaurants, 718 accommodations near, 494 restaurants around, sightseeing, 732 Parque María Luisa (Seville), 809–810 doctors and dentists, 904 Piazzale Michelangiolo 703–704 Parreirinha da Alfama (Florence), 470 drugstores, 704 (Lisbon), 510–511 Piazza Navona (Rome), 840 electricity, 704 The Parthenon (Athens), accommodations around, embassies and consulates, 128–130 798–799 704 Parthenon Sculptures bars and pubs around, 845 emergencies, 704 (London), 539, 542 restaurants around, 809 gay and lesbian travelers, Patio de Comares (Granada), Piazza San Marco (Venice), 737 916 955 clubs, 747–749 Patio de la Acequia accommodations near, holidays, 704 (Granada), 917 961–964 hospitals, 704–705 Patio de las Muñecas restaurants near, 970 laundry and dry cleaning, (Seville), 898 Piazza San Pietro (the 705 Patio de Lindaraja Vatican), 815 layout of, 699–700 (Granada), 917 Piazza Santa Croce liquor laws, 705 Patio de los Leones (Florence), 453 mail and post offices, 705 (Granada), 917 restaurants around, nightlife, 744–749 Patio de los Naranjos 449–450 organized tours, 741–742 (Córdoba), 909 Piazza Santa Maria Novella parks and gardens, Patio de los Naranjos (Florence), 453 740–741 (Seville), 899, 900 Piazza Santo Spirito performing arts, 744–746 Pazzi Chapel (Florence), 467 (Florence), 474 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1062

1062 INDEX

Picasso, Pablo, 86, 185, 250, Plaza Mayor (Madrid) layout of, 754–755 416, 546, 598, 600, 639, accommodations near, luggage storage and 687, 721, 775, 944, 983, 581–582 lockers, 758–759 1030 restaurants around, mail and post offices, 759 Die Sammlung Berggruen: 589–590 nightlife, 780–781 Picasso und Seine Zeit Plaza Santa Ana (Madrid), pharmacies, 759 (Berlin), 216 587–588 restaurants, 765–770 Guernica, 224 accommodations around, quick bites, 769 Musée Picasso (Antibes), 582–583 restrooms, 759 687–688 Poble Espanyol (Barcelona), safety, 759 Musée Picasso (Paris), 733 177, 182 shopping, 779–780 Museu Picasso (Barcelona), The Point Depot (Dublin), side trip to Cesk; Krumlov, 169 392 781–783 Piccadilly (London), Pollock, Jackson, 546, 983 sights and attractions, restaurants, 532–533 Pompeii, 846 770–779 Piccolo Mondo (Venice), 994 Ponte dei Sospiri (Venice), special events, 778 Picture Gallery (Berlin), 982 taxes, 759 222–223 Ponte Rialto (Venice), 955 taxis, 755–756 Picture Gallery (Siena), 479 accommodations near, telephone, 759–760 Pileta Caves (Ronda), 913 965–966 country and city Pinacoteca (the Vatican), restaurants near, 970–971 codes, 757 818–819 Ponte Vecchio (Florence), 468 tipping, 760 Pinacoteca Nazionale Pont Magnan (Nice), 655 transportation, 755–757 (Siena), 479 accommodations, 664–665 visitor information, 754 Pinakothek der Moderne Porta della Carta (Venice), worth a splurge, 753 (Munich), 5, 639–640 980–981 accommodations, 765 Pio-Clementino Museum Porta Portese (Rome), 843 restaurants, 769–770 (the Vatican), 823 Port Lligat, 187 Prague Autumn International Piraeus, 103 Portobello Market (London), Music Festival, 778 Pisa (Italy), 481–483 558 Prague Castle, 771, 774 Pissarro, Camille, 220, 729, Potsdam, 232–233 Prague International 732, 1030 Potsdamer Platz (Berlin), Marathon, 778 Pitti Palace (Florence), 464 192, 227 Prague Spring International Place de la Concorde (Paris), restaurant, 211 Music Festival, 778, 780 739 sights and attractions, Prater (Vienna), 1031–1032 Place des Vosges (Paris), 739 222–223 Princess Diana Memorial Place du Grand-Sablon Powder Tower (Prague), 774 Playground (London), 544 (Brussels), 284 Praça Dom Pedro IV (Lisbon). Princes Street (Edinburgh), Place du Petit-Sablon See The Rossio 423 (Brussels), 284 The Prado (Madrid), 5, 595, Princes Street Gardens Place Royale (Brussels), 284 598 (Edinburgh), 422 Place Vendôme (Paris), 739 accommodations near, 579 Prinsenhof Museum (Delft), Plage de Larvotto (Monaco), restaurants near, 585–586 99 684 Prague, 6–7, 752–783 Promenade des Anglais The Plaka (Athens), 136 accommodations, 760–765 (Nice), 671 accommodations, 111–113 arriving in, 752–754 Propylaia (Athens), 128 restaurants, 120–123 babysitters, 757 Provinciaal Hof (Bruges), 290 Planetário Gulbenkian beer, 770 Púbol, 186–187 (Lisbon), 504 business hours, 757 Puccini, Giacomo, 481 Plaza de Alianza (Seville), cafes, 768–769 Puerta del Sol (Madrid) 904 currency and currency accommodations near, Plaza de España (Seville), exchange, 757–758 581–582 904 deals and discounts, 753 restaurants around, Plaza de la Virgen de los accommodations, 761 589–590 Reyes (Seville), 903 restaurants, 767 Puerta del Vino (Granada), Plaza de Santa Cruz (Seville), sightseeing, 771 916 903 doctors and dentists, 758 Puerta de San Cristóbal Plaza de Toros (Ronda), 913 embassies, 758 (Seville), 899 Plaza de Toros (Seville), 903 emergencies, 758 Pump Room (Bath, England), Plaza Doña Elvira (Seville), gay and lesbian bars, 781 566 904 Internet access, 758 Puppet theater, Brussels, 287 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1063

INDEX 1063

Ringstrasse (Vienna), 1001 visitor information, 787 Q ueen’s Day River Club (Dublin), 392 worth a splurge, 786 (Amsterdam), 90 Rock Garden (London), 561 accommodations, Queen’s Hall (Edinburgh), Rockhouse (Innsbruck), 874 803–805 424 Rodin, Auguste, 352, 384, restaurants, 813–814 544, 638, 775, 940, 943 Ronda (Spain), 913–914 Musée National Auguste- Rosenborg Slot (Rosenborg R ådhus (Town Hall; Rodin (Paris), 732–733 Palace; Copenhagen), 352 Copenhagen), 355 Roman Baths (Bath, Rosengarten (Rose Garden; Rail passes, 21–25 England), 566 Bern), 249 Rainermuseum (Salzburg), Roman Forum, 824, 826–828 Roskilde (Denmark), 866 Romantic Museum (Madrid), 360–361 Raphael, 98, 223, 416, 459, 601 Roskilde Festival, 361 465, 479, 545, 635, 730, Rome, 7, 784–846 Roskilde Fiord, 361 784, 815, 829–831, 837, accommodations, 796–805 Roslin (Scotland), 427–428 1028, 1029 American Express, 791 Rosse Buurt (Amsterdam), 89 Gallery (London), 547–548 arriving in, 784–785 The Rossio (Lisbon), 487 Stanze di Raffaello budget bests, 785 accommodations near, 493 (Raphael Rooms) (the business hours, 791–792 restaurants on or near, 498 Vatican), 819–820 car rentals, 791 Rosslyn Chapel (Scotland), Real Academia de Bellas cuisine and menu terms, 427–428 Artes de San Fernando 805–806 Round Tower (Copenhagen), (Madrid), 602 deals and discounts, 786 355 Real Fábrica de Tabacos accommodations, 797 Royal Albert Hall (London), (Seville), 903 restaurants, 807 560 Réal Jardín Botánico sightseeing, 824 Royal Apartments (Madrid), 603 doctors and dentists, 792 (Stockholm), 941 Réciproque (Paris), 743 embassies and consulates, Royal Armory (Stockholm), Red Light District 792 941 (Amsterdam), 89 emergencies, 792 Royal Botanic Garden Regata Storica (Venice), 987 gay and lesbian clubs, 846 (Edinburgh), 422 Regent’s Park (London), 553 gelaterie and cafes, Royal Botanic Gardens Reichstag (Berlin), 220 844–845 (near London), 555 Rembrandtplein hospitals, 792–793 Royal Chapel (Granada), 918 (Amsterdam), 64, 93, 95 Internet access, 793 Royal Concertgebouw restaurants around, 77–78 laundry, 793 Orchestra (Amsterdam), 94 Rembrandt van Rijn, 223, layout of, 788–789 Royal Dramatic Theater 282, 416, 459, 461, 503, mail and post offices, (Stockholm), 947 545, 550, 552, 568, 634, 793–794 Royal Festival Hall and 635, 730, 732, 867, 943, newspapers and Hayward Gallery (London), 1028, 1029 magazines, 794 560 Museum Het nightlife, 843–846 Royal Garden (Prague), 779 Rembrandthuis organized tours, 841–842 Royal Lyceum Theatre (Amsterdam), 85 pharmacies, 794 (Edinburgh), 424 Renoir, Pierre Auguste, 220, picnicking, 813 Royal Mile (Edinburgh), 419 352, 503, 548, 598, 638, restaurants, 805–814 Royal Museum of Fine Arts 729, 732, 733, 943, 1030 quick bites, 810 (Copenhagen), 353 Residenz (Salzburg), 867 types of eateries, 805 Royal Museum of Scotland The Residenz (Munich), 640 safety, 794–795 (Edinburgh), 417 Residenzmuseum (Munich), shopping, 842–843 Royal Museums of Fine Arts 640 side trip to Pompeii, 846 (Brussels), 282 Residenztheater (Munich), sights and attractions, Royal National Theatre 646 814–842 (London), 558–559 Restaurants, getting the reservations, 826 Royal Opera House best deal on, 15–16 special and free events, 834 (London), 560 Rialto Bridge (Venice), 955 taxes, 795 Royal Opera House (Madrid), accommodations near, taxis, 790 601 965–966 telephone, 795 Royal Opera House restaurants near, 970–971 country and city (Stockholm), 947 Ribera, José, 595, 601, 602, codes, 791 Royal Palace (Madrid) 730 tipping, 796 accommodations, 583 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), transportation, 789–791 restaurants, 590–591 81 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1064

1064 INDEX

Royal Palace (Prague), 771, St. Giles’s Cathedral banks, 850–851 774 (Edinburgh), 420 bars, 873–874 Royal Palace (Stockholm), 941 St. James’s Church (London), budget bests, 848 Royal Theater (Copenhagen), 559 business hours, 851 358 St. James’s Park (London), coffeehouses and pastry Royal Tobacco Factory 553 shops, 862 (Seville), 903 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 680 consulates, 851 Royal Treasury (Stockholm), St. Margaret’s Chapel deals and discounts, 849 941 (Edinburgh), 412 accommodations, 853 Rubens, Peter Paul, 85, 223, St. Mark’s Basilica (Venice), 8 restaurants, 861 282, 416, 461, 465, 503, St. Martin-in-the-Fields sightseeing, 866 545, 548, 552, 594, 595, (London), 559 doctors and dentists, 851 602, 611, 634, 635, 730, St. Michael’s Chapel emergencies, 851 831, 835, 867, 943, 1028, (Barcelona), 175 Internet access, 851 1029 St. Michael’s Parish Church laundry, 851–852 Rudolfinum (Prague), 780 (Linlithgow, Scotland), 427 layout of, 848 Rundetårn (Copenhagen), 355 St. Patrick’s Cathedral mail and post offices, 852 Russian Orthodox Church (Dublin), 385 nightlife, 872–874 (Nice), 671–672 St-Paul-de-Vence (France), organized tours, 870–871 Ruszwurm Cukrászda 686–687 panoramic views, 870 (Budapest), 314 St. Paul’s Cathedral pharmacies, 852 Ruta del Modernisme (London), 545–546 picnicking, 863 (Barcelona), 146–147 St. Peter in Chains (Rome), restaurants, 860–864 Ruzynê Airport (Prague), 752 836 shopping, 871 Ryan’s of Parkgate Street St. Peter’s Basilica (the sights and attractions, (Dublin), 393 Vatican), 815, 818 864–871 St. Stephen’s Basilica special and free events, 868 (Budapest), 3, 319 taxis, 850 S aatchi Collection St. Stephen’s Cathedral telephone, 852 (London), 551 (Vienna), 1026 country and city Sacramonte (Granada), 918 St. Stephen’s Day codes, 850 Sacré-Coeur, Basilique du (Budapest), 320 tipping, 852 (Paris), 733–734 St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin), transportation, 849–850 Sacred Way (Delphi), 142 365, 388 visitor information, Sadlers Wells Theatre St-Tropez (France), 691–693 847–848 (London), 560 St. Vitus Cathedral (Cesk; worth a splurge, 849 Safety, 39 Krumlov), 782 accommodations, Safronier (France), 687 St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague), 859–860 Sagrada Família, Temple de 771 restaurants, 863–864 la (Barcelona), 173 St. Wenceslas Chapel Salzburg Card, 7, 849, 866 St. Agnes Convent (Prague), (Prague), 771 Salzburg Culture Days, 868 774–775 Sts-Michel-et-Gudule, Salzburger St. Bavo’s Church (Haarlem), Cathédrale des (Brussels), Festungskonzerte, 872 98 284 Salzburger Landestheater, St. Bride’s Church (London), Sala Capitular (Seville), 899 873 559 Sala del Anti-Collegio Salzburger Sainte-Chapelle (Paris), (Venice), 981 Marionettentheater, 873 734–735 Sala del Maggior Consiglio Salzburger Schlosskonzerte St. George’s Basilica (Venice), 981–982 (Salzburg Palace Concerts), (Prague), 774 Sala de los Abencerrajes 872 St. George’s Castle (Lisbon), (Granada), 917 Salzburg Festival (Salzburger 502 Sala Thyssen (Barcelona), 175 Festspiele), 868, 872, 873 St. George’s Chapel Salisbury Crags (Edinburgh), Sanctuary of Apollo (Delphi), (Windsor Castle, England), 422 142 568 Salón de Embajadores Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia St. George’s Convent at (Granada), 916–917 (Delphi), 142 Prague Castle (Prague), Salone dei Cinquecento San Gimignano (Italy), 775 (Florence), 465–466 476–477 St-Germain-des-Prés (Paris) Salzburg, 7, 847–874 San Lorenzo (Rome), accommodations, 709–710 accommodations, 853–860 restaurants, 810–811 restaurants, 719–720 arriving in, 847 San Lorenzo Basilica babysitters, 850 (Florence), 466 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1065

INDEX 1065

San Lorenzo market Schloss Charlottenburg. See telephone, 887 (Florence), 429, 433, 437 Charlottenburg Palace country and city accommodations, 440–443 (Berlin) codes, 885 restaurants near, 448–449 Schloss Sanssouci transportation, 885–886 San Luigi dei Francesi (Potsdam), 232 visitor information, 884 (Rome), 837 Schloss Schönbrunn worth a splurge, 883 San Marco, Museo di Experience (Vienna), 1022 accommodations, 891 (Florence), 462 Schloss Thun (Switzerland), restaurants, 896 San Michele (Venice), 956 254 Sewers of Paris, 738–739 San Michele in Foro (Lucca), Schönbrunn (Vienna), 1019, Shakespeare’s Globe 481 1022 (London), 551 San Miniato al Monte Schönefeld Airport (Berlin), Shamrock Irish Pub (Florence), 470 189 (Innsbruck), 874 San Pietro in Vincoli (Rome), Schubert’s Birthplace Sherlock Holmes (London), 836 (Vienna), 1033 563 Santa Croce, Basilica di Schuttersgalerij Shetland Connection (Florence), 4, 467 (Amsterdam), 84 (Edinburgh), 423 Sant’Agostino (Rome), 837 Schwabing (Munich), 616, Shopping, getting the best Santa Maria, Church of 648 deal on, 16–19 (Lisbon), 502 accommodations, 627–628 Side trip to Cesk; Krumlov, Santa Maria degli Angeli restaurants near, 632–633 781–783 (Rome), 832–833 Schwabinger Podium Siena (Italy), 477–480 Santa Maria del Carmine (Munich), 647 Sierra Nevada (Spain), 914 (Florence), 469 Schweizerisches Alpines Sightseeing, getting the best Santa Maria della Salute Museum (Bern), 249 deal on, 16 (Venice), 987–988 Scott Monument Sigmund Freud Museum Santa Maria del Popolo (Edinburgh), 417, 419 (Vienna), 1031 (Rome), 837 Scrovegni Chapel (Padova), 9 Silberne Kapelle (Silver Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Scuola di San Marco Chapel; Innsbruck), 877 Frari (Venice), 988–989 (Venice), 990 Sint-Bavokerk (Haarlem), 98 Santa Maria in Cosmedin Scuola Grande di San Rocco Sintra (Portugal), 512–513 (Rome), 835–836 (Venice), 984–985 Sir John Soane’s Museum Santa Maria Novella, Basilica Sé (Cathedral; Lisbon), 507 (London), 551 di (Florence), 468–469 Selfridges (London), 557 Sir Jules Thorn Exhibition of Santa Maria Novella, Museo Seniors, 41–42 the History of Surgery/ di, 469 Seteais (Portugal), 513 Dental Museum Santa Maria Novella, Seville, 8, 882–908 (Edinburgh), 421 Stazione (Florence), 431 accommodations, 888–891 Sistine Chapel (Cappella accommodations near, arriving in, 882–884 Sistina; the Vatican), 818, 440–443 business hours, 886 821–823 restaurants near, 448–449 consulates, 886 Sitges, 185–186 Santa Maria Sopra Minerva crime, 886–887 Skansen (Stockholm), 944 (Rome), 836–837 deals and discounts, 883 Skattskammeren SS. Giovanni e Paolo accommodations, 889 (Stockholm), 941 (Venice), 990 restaurants, 892 Skeppsholmen (Stockholm), Savonarola, Girolamo, cell of sightseeing, 899 923, 944 (Florence), 462 emergencies, 887 Skiing S-Bahn (Berlin), 193–195 gay bars, 908 Bernese Oberland Scala dei Giganti (Venice), Internet access, 887 (Switzerland), 258–259 981 layout of, 884–885 Grindelwald (Switzerland), Scalinata di Spagna. See nightlife, 906–908 260 Spanish Steps (Rome) organized tours, 904–905 Innsbruck (Austria), Scavi della Cripta di Santa picnicking, 895–896 878–879 Reparata (Florence), 458 restaurants, 891–896 Slotsholmen (Copenhagen), Schatzkammer (Munich), 640 shopping, 905–906 332 Schatzkammer (Vienna), 1024 side trips in Andalusia, Socialist Statue Park Scheepvaartmuseum 909–919 (Szoborpark Múzeum; (Amsterdam), 85–86 sights and attractions, Budapest), 321 Schilthorn (Switzerland), 896–905 Södermalm (Stockholm), 256, 259 special and free events, 901 923–924, 944 tapas, 893, 907–908 restaurants, 935 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1066

1066 INDEX

Soho (London), restaurants, Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael sights and attractions, 532–533 Rooms; the Vatican), 936–945 Sol Café Cantante (Seville), 819–820 special and free events, 942 907 Staromêstské Námêstí (Old tax, 927 Sole al Biscione (Rome), Town Square; Prague), 778 telephone, 927 797–798 accommodations, 761–762 country and city South Kensington (London), restaurants near, 765–768 codes, 924 518 Statens Museum for Kunst transportation, 924–925 accommodations, 526 (Copenhagen), 353 VAT refund, 946 Southwark (London), 518 State Opening of Parliament visitor information, 921–923 Spain Rail & Drive Pass, 147, (London), 553 worth a splurge, 922 570 Stazione Santa Maria accommodations, Spanish Riding School Novella. See Santa Maria 930–931 (Spanische Reitschule; Novella, Stazione restaurants, 936 Vienna), 999, 1023, (Florence) Stockholm Card, 922, 924 1024–1025 Stazione Termini (Rome) Stockholm Cathedral Spanish Steps (Rome), 839 accommodations near, (Stockholm), 942 accommodations around, 801–802 Stone of Destiny 799–800 restaurants near, 811 (Edinburgh), 412 bars and pubs around, 845 Stechelberg (Switzerland), Stonewallz (Dublin), 393 restaurants around, 256 Storkyrkan (Stockholm), 942 809–810 Stedelijk Museum The Story of Berlin, 2, 225 Spanish Synagogue (Prague), (Amsterdam), 86 Strahov Monastery and 776 Stephansdom (Vienna), 1026 Library (Prague), 777 Special-interest vacations, Sternbersk; palác (Prague), Students and youths, 43–44 57–60 774 Summer Festival (Munich), Spielzeugmuseum Stiegl’s Brauwelt (Stiegl’s 641 (Salzburg), 869 World of Beer; Salzburg), Summer in Fiesole (Italy), 463 The Spreewald (Germany), 869 Summer Opera and Ballet 233–234 Stift Göttweig (Austria), 1041 Festival (Budapest), 320 Spring Festival (Munich), 641 Stiftskeller St. Peter Sun Casino (Monaco), 685 Spring of Castalia (Delphi), (Salzburg), 873 Swarovski Kristallwelten 142 Stockholm, 8, 920–949 (Wattens), 878 Staatsoper (State Opera; accommodations, 927–931 Swiss Alpine Museum (Bern), Vienna), 999, 1032, 1036 arriving in, 920–921 249 Staatsoper Unter den Linden banks, 925 Swiss Open-Air Museum (Berlin), 229 budget bests, 921 (Ballenberg), 254 Staatstheater am business hours, 925 Swiss Re building (London), 5 Gärtnerplatz (Munich), 647 currency and currency Synagoga de El Trásito y Stade Nautique Rainier-III exchange, 925–926 Museo Sefardi (Toledo), 611 (Monaco), 684 deals and discounts, 922 Syntagma Square (Athens) Stadhuis (Bruges), 290 accommodations, 928 accommodations, 113–114 Stadshuset (Stockholm), restaurants, 933 restaurant, 123 942–943 sightseeing, 937 Szigliget (Hungary), 327 Stadsschouwburg doctors and dentists, 926 Szigliget Castle, 327 (Amsterdam), 94 embassies and consulates, Szoborpark Múzeum (Social- Städtische Galerie im 926 ist Statue Park; Budapest), Lenbachhaus (Munich), 643 gay and lesbian clubs, 948 321 Stadttheater (Bern), 251 Internet access, 926 Stadtturm (Innsbruck), laundry and dry cleaning, 876–877 926 Tanto Lunden Stændertorvet (Roskilde), 361 layout of, 923–924 (Stockholm), 944–945 Stansted Airport (London), mail and post offices, 926 Tartan Gift Shops 516 nightlife, 946–949 (Edinburgh), 423 Stanza del Consiglio dei organized tours, 945 Tate Britain (London), 546 Dieci (Venice), 981 picnicking, 935–936 Tate Modern (London), 546 Stanza della Segnatura restaurants, 931–936 Teatre-Museu Dalí (the Vatican), 820 fast-food, 935–936 (Figueres), 187 Stanza dell’Incendio (the shopping, 945–946 Teatro Comunale (Florence), Vatican), 819–820 side trip to Drottningholm 473 Stanza di Eliodoro (the Palace, 949 Vatican), 820 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1067

INDEX 1067

Teatro de la Maestranza Tiroler Alpenbühne Travel insurance, 37–38 (Seville), 906 (Innsbruck), 881 Traverse Theatre Teatro de la Zarzuela Tiroler Landestheater (Edinburgh), 424 (Madrid), 606 (Innsbruck), 881 Treasury (Venice), 977 Teatro dell’Opera (Rome), 844 Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum Treasury (Vienna), 1024 Teatro Lope de Vega (Innsbruck), 877 Tre Kronor Museum (Stock- (Seville), 906 Titian, 223, 416, 459, 465, holm), 941 Teatro Real (Madrid), 601 545, 594, 595, 611, 635, Trevi Fountain (Rome), 840 Teatro Romano (Fiesole), 475 730, 819, 831, 835, 981, Trip-cancellation insurance, Teatro Verdi (Florence), 473 983–985, 988, 1029 37 Tegel Airport (Berlin), 189 Tivoli (Copenhagen), 330, Triton Fountain (Rome), 841 Telephone calls, getting the 348 Trooping the Colour best deal on, 19–21 Toledo, 610–612 (London), 552 Temple Bar (Dublin), 366, 390 Tollwood Summer Festival Tropenmuseum Temple de la Sagrada (Munich), 641 (Amsterdam), 86–87 Família (Barcelona), 173 Tomba di Giulietta (Verona), Trophy of the Alps (France), Temple of Apollo (Delphi), 996 682 142 Tomb of Cecilia Metella Turkish Market (Berlin), 228 Temple of Athena Nike (Rome), 838–839 Tuscan countryside (Italy), (Athens), 128 Tomb of Napoleon (Paris), 475–476 Templo de Debod (Madrid), 738 Tyrolean Folk Art Museum 603 Torcello (Italy), 956 (Innsbruck), 877 Tesoro (Venice), 977 Torre de Belém (Lisbon), 507 Tyrolean Party Night Teylers Museum (Haarlem), 98 Torre del Cabo de la Carrera (Innsbruck), 881 Theater an der Wien (Granada), 917 (Vienna), 1037 Torre dell’Orologio (Venice), Theater des Westens 982 U -Bahn (Berlin), 193–195 (Berlin), 229 Torre del Mangia (Siena), Uffizi Gallery (Florence), Théâtre de la Cité (Nice), 678 477–478 459–461 Théâtre de la Ville (Paris), 745 Torre del Oro (Seville), 900 U4 (Vienna), 1039 Théâtre de Nice, 678 Torre Grossa (San Unter den Linden (Berlin), Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie Gimignano), 476 192, 217 (Brussels), 287 Torre Quebrada (Granada), Untersberg (near Salzburg), Theresien-Bräu (Innsbruck), 916 870 881 Tour Bellanda (Nice), 672 Usher Hall (Edinburgh), 424 Theresienwiese (Munich), 616 Tourism Museum accommodations, 627 (Interlaken), 253 Thermal baths, Budapest, 322 Tours, 55–60 Value-added tax (VAT), Thistle Chapel of the Ancient Tower Bridge (London), 546 16–17 and Noble Order of the Tower of Belém (Lisbon), 507 Van Dyck, Anthony, 282, 292, Thistle (Edinburgh), 420 Tower of London, 547 416, 552, 568, 595, 730, Tholos (Delphi), 142 Toy Museum (Salzburg), 869 732, 983, 1029 Thorvaldsen’s Museum Traditional Handicraft Fair Van Eyck, Jan, 223, 290 (Copenhagen), 354 (Budapest), 320 Van Gogh, Vincent, 220, 282, Thun (Switzerland), 253 Trafalgar Square (London), 416, 638, 729, 734, 1030 Thunersee (Lake Thun; restaurants, 532–533 Museum (Amsterdam), Switzerland), 253 TRAFO (Budapest), 325 81, 84 Tiepolo, 223, 598, 601, 635, Train travel, 21–25 Várhegy (Szigliget), 327 732, 983–985 Trajan’s Forum (Rome), Városliget (Budapest), 323 Tiergarten (Berlin), 192 829–830 Vasari, Giorgio, 457, 459, restaurants, 211 Transportation, 21–28 465–467 sights and attractions, Trastevere (Rome) Corridoio Vasariano (Vasari 222–225 accommodations, 802–803 Corridor; Florence), 461 Tiergarten Schönbrunn bars and pubs around, Vasari Corridor (Florence), (Vienna), 1022 845–846 461 Tihany Museum (Hungary), restaurants, 811–812 The Vatican 327 Traveler’s checks, 35–36 accommodations around, Tihany Peninsula (Hungary), Traveling to Europe, 48–55 803 326–327 by plane from North restaurants around, Tintoretto, 173, 465, 595, America, 48–53 812–813 598, 831, 835, 981–985, from the United Kingdom, sights and attractions, 988, 1029 53–55 815–823 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1068

1068 INDEX

Vatican Gardens, 823 Versailles (France), 749–751 Vieux-Marché (Brussels), 286 Vatican Grottoes, 815 Via Veneto (Rome), 840 Vigszínház (Budapest), 325 Velázquez, Diego, 169, 173, accommodations around, Vikingeskibhallen (Viking 223, 595, 635, 902, 1029 800–801 Ship Museum; Roskilde), Veletrzní Palace (Prague), Victoria (London), 361 774, 775 accommodations, 524–526 Viking Ship Museum Vence (France), 687 Victoria & Albert Museum (Roskilde), 331 Venice, 8–9, 950–997 (London), 547–548 Viktualienmarkt (Munich), accommodations, 960–969 Victoria Tower Gardens 634, 645 addresses in, 956 (London), 544 Villa Borghese (Rome), 841 arriving in, 950–954 Vidám Park (Budapest), 320 Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild budget bests, 951 Vienna, 9, 998–1041 (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 680 restaurants, 973–974 accommodations, The Village (Brussels), 283 business hours, 958 1006–1012 Village Museum (Hollókó), caffès, 992–993 arriving in, 998–999 328 consulates, 958–959 banks, 1004 Villa Kérylos (Beaulieu-sur- crime, 959 bars, 1038–1039 Mer), 680 cruising the canals, 989 budget bests, 999 Vinopolis, City of Wine cuisine and menu terms, business hours, 1004 (London), 551–552 969 car rentals, 1003–1004 Visitor information, 29–32 deals and discounts, coffeehouses, 1015 Viva Madrid (Madrid), 608 952–953 consulates, 1004–1005 Vivoli (Florence), 450 accommodations, 962 cuisine and menu terms, Volksgarten Disco (Vienna), restaurants, 972 1012–1013 1040 sightseeing, 976 deals and discounts, 1000 Volksoper (Vienna), emergencies, 959 accommodations, 1008 1036–1037 gay and lesbian scene, 993 sightseeing, 1023 Vondelpark (Amsterdam), Internet access, 959 doctors and dentists, 1005 89–90 laundry, 959 emergencies, 1005 Vor Frue Kirke layout of, 955–956 gay and lesbian bars, 1039 (Copenhagen), 354 mail and post offices, hospitals, 1005 Vysehrad (Prague), 779 959–960 Internet access, 1005–1006 nightlife, 991–994 laundry, 1006 organized tours, 990 layout of, 1001 W alking tours, 58–59 picnicking, 974–975 mail and post offices, 1006 Wallace Collection (London), restaurants, 969–975 nightlife, 1035–1040 552 shopping, 990–991 organized tours, W. A. Mozart Museum side trip to Verona, 994–997 1034–1035 (Prague), 777 sights and attractions, picnicking, 1018–1019 Warhol, Andy, 223, 360, 546, 976–990 restaurants, 1012–1019 639, 672, 944, 1030 special and free events, shopping, 1035 War Memorial Gardens 986–987 sights and attractions, (Dublin), 384 telephone, country and city 1019–1035 Waterlooplein flea market codes, 958 special and free events, (Amsterdam), 93 transportation, 956–958 1027 Watertown (Víziváros; visitor information, tax, 1006 Budapest), 298 954–955 taxis, 1002 Wattens (Austria), 878 worth a splurge, 953 telephone, 1006 Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas accommodations, country and city market; Berlin), 224, 228 967–969 codes, 1004 Weinstadt Museum (Krems), restaurants, 975 tipping, 1006 1040–1041 Venice Card, 952 transportation, 1001–1004 Welt der Marionetten Venice International Film visitor information, (Salzburg), 866 Festival, 987 999–1000 Wenceslas Square (Prague), Veranos de la Villa (Madrid), worth a splurge, 1000 778–779 599 accommodations, accommodations, 762–763 Verbena de Sant Joan 1011–1012 restaurants, 767 (Barcelona), 176 restaurants, 1019 West End (London), 518 Verona (Italy), 994–997 Vienna Boys’ Choir, shopping, 556 Veronese, 465, 730, 819, 1025–1026 theaters, 558 835, 981, 984, 985, 990, Vienna International Airport, Westerkerk (Amsterdam), 996 998 88–89 31_568906 bindex.qxd 7/26/04 2:27 PM Page 1069

INDEX 1069

Westminster Abbey Women travelers, 43 Zoo-Aquarium de Madrid (London), 548 World Clock (Copenhagen), (Madrid), 602 Westminster Hall (London), 355 Zoologischer Garten (Berlin 544 Writers’ Museum Zoo), 225–226 Whichcraft (Dublin), 390 (Edinburgh), 421 Zoologisk Have Wiener Sängerknaben (Copenhagen), 355 (Vienna), 1025–1026 Zoos Wien Museum (Vienna), 9, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Amsterdam, 89 1031 (London), 563 Berlin, 225–226 Wigmore Hall (London), Ye Olde Mitre (London), 563 Copenhagen, 355 560–561 Youth hostels. See Hostels Dublin, 388 Wilderness and adventure Edinburgh, 419 travel, 59 Innsbruck, 878 Wilmersdorfer Strasse Z ahrada na Valech Madrid, 602–603 (Berlin), 192, 227 (Prague), 779 Munich, 644 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis ZAM-Zentrum für Vienna, 1022 Championships (London), Aussergewöhnliche The Zosimus Experience 552–553 Museum (Munich), 643 (Dublin), 389 Windsor Castle (England), Zeneakadémia (Budapest), Zwölf Apostelkeller (Vienna), 568 325 1038 Winterfeldplatz (Berlin), 228 Zentralfriedhof (Vienna), Zytgloggeturm (Bern), 246 Wire services, 37 1033–1034