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UNDER SEVEN MOONS: IN THE PALE GLOW OF THE ANTARCTIC WINTER MOON. THE MULTIPLE EXPOSURE BY R. K. McBRIDE, WHO WINTERED AT SCOTT BASE IN 1972, HAS CAUGHT THE MOON'S PASSAGE ACROSS THE SKY OVER McMURDO SOUND. SCOTT BASE, WHICH IS NEW ZEALAND'S PRINCIPAL ANTARCTIC STATION- WILL BE 20 YEARS OLD IN JANUARY NEXT YEAR. Antarctic Division, D.S.I.R. Photo

Registered at Post Office Headquarters. Vol. 7, No. 10 Wellington, New Zealand, as a magazine. JUNE, 1976 SOUTH GEORGIA SOUTH SANDWICH Is

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Vol. 7, No. 10 82nd ISSUE JUNE, 1976 Editor: J. M. CAFFIN, 35 Chepstow Avenue, Christchurch, 5. Address all contributions to the Editor.

CONTENTS

ARTICLES FIRST NEW ZEALAND BASE 314-317 SKELTON SUMMER 331-332

POLAR ACTIVITIES NEW ZEALAND 313, 320 UNITED STATES 312, 313, 318-320 AUSTRALIA 321-322 UNITED KINGDOM 323-325 SOVIET UNION 326-327 JAPAN 328

SUB-ANTARCTIC BIOLOGICAL WORK 329-330

GENERAL THE READER WRITES 333 ■ m\ ANTARCTIC BOOKSHELF 334 OBITUARY 335-336 VETERAN DOG DRIVER 337-338

Millions of tons of krill in Antarctic waters represent the world's largest single remaining unexploited marine resource. Scientists, inter national organisations, and the Antarctic Treaty nations, have recognised that conservation, scientific study, and wise management are necessary if krill are not be go the way of the whale. But resolutions have not stopped exploitation. The Soviet Union and Japan have been harvesting krill for some years. West Germany and Poland have entered the field, Norway is planning a krill expedition, and six other nations are interested. Some of these countries have agreed with the recommendations of the Antarctic Treaty. But resolutions seem to be ineffctive when the stakes are high. JUNE, 1976

WINTER DIARY Record low temperature at station Winter arrived with a vengeance at the South Pole late last month. On May 28 a record low temperature of minus 102.4 degrees Fahrenheit was recorded at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. This was a record low temperature for May, and broke the record of minus 102.1 degrees on May 18, 1957, when men first wintered at the Pole. Sixteen Americans and two New Zealanders settled in at the Pole Station on February 11 for a winter which, to date, has been the coldest at the South Pole since 1957. On Island 825 825 miles miles to to the the mark the first minus 100 temperatures, north 6565 Americans, Americans, 11 11 New New Zealanders, Zealanders, May 23 was the day the temperature and one RussianRussian exchange exchange scientist scientist had had dropped to 100.4deg, and then on May more sunshine sunshine than than the the winter winter team team at at 28 the 1957 record of 102.1 deg was the Pole—the sun sun set set a a month month later. later. broken, the thermometer showing minus But McMurdo Station and and Scott Scott Base Base l()2.4deg. Two Americans of the winter arc not in the the "Banana "Banana Belt" Belt" when when team joined this year's Club 300 at winter comes. Darkness and and low low 11.30 p.m. on May 23, facing the temperatures have have been been accompanied accompanied by by temperature of minus 100.4dcg after a snow and high winds. sauna bath. Since the last flight to the Pole Nearly 20 years ago when the first Station was made on February 11 Americans wintered at the Pole, the meteorological records have been scientific leader, Dr Paul Siple, believed broken there every month. The lowest that the winter night temperatures in temperature for February was minus 1957 might reach minus 120dcg F. He 56.7deg Celsius, recorded on February was proved wrong, but in May the 29. Then temperatures began dropping men at the Pole Station endured 93 steadily each week. The sun set on consecutive hours with temperatures at March 22, when the time-honoured minus 90deg or colder, and at 3 a.m. holiday was observed, and minus 69.4 on May 12 the coldest outdoor temper deg C was recorded in that week. ature (minus 100.4deg) was recorded. When the men at McMurdo Station An unexpected cold snap in September and Scott Base saw the sun drop began with a temperature of minus below the horizon for the last time on 99.7deg on September 11. Minus lOOdeg April 24 the temperature at the Pole was recorded on September 18. and was minus 72deg C, and the month 'the thermometer finally showed the ended with the thermometer at minus record of minus 102.1deg. 69.4deg. Work on equipment outside the station stopped, and the 18 men In 1957 there were no sauna baths or a Club 300 at the Pole Station, but prepared for the months of winter darkness. two men put themselves to a cold en durance test on July 29 when the temper RECORD LOW ature was minus 98.8deg. They decided Outside the geodesic dome which to go outdoors and determine how long houses the station buildings tempera they could endure without seeking tures continued to drop. A temperature shelter. One man wore 261b of clothes, of minus 69.1 deg was recorded on May and the other 271b. They gave up after 21, and then on May 23 the recording three and four hours respectively in was made on the Fahrenheit scale to the darkness and cold. JUNE, 1976

When temperatures start to drop larger ice wharf in Winter Quarters sharply at the South Pole, the men liv Bay. The old wharf, which had been ing there always face living problems. in use for several seasons, was broken Heating, lighting, and plumbing, are up and floated out to sea towards the their main concern, and this year's end of last season. By the end of May team have had to cope with frozen the huge man-made ice cube had reached pipes, and equipment immobilised by a thickness of nearly 5ft. the intense cold. And working in SCOTT BASE temperatures of minus 60 Celsius means frostbitten fingers and noses. Winter darkness and low tempera But living conditions are now more tures arc now the daily experience of comfortable than those in the old the Americans' neighbours over the station. There arc facilities for hill—11 New Zealanders at Scott Base. recreation, and this winter the men In his April newsletter the leader, have been weight lifting, playing pool Hamish Raynham, says that the aver and darts, and taking part in a cooking age temperature for the month was contest. Twilight will start to replace minus 28.4 Celsius, one degree colder the winter darkness early in August, than the previous record of April, 1960. and the sun will return towards the end Before the New Zealanders settled of September. in for the winter—the last five of the Winter at McMurdo Station has been summer support staff left on February marked by the same pattern of falling 12—several New Zealanders made the temperatures and living problems as last helicopter flight of the season to the Pole Station. After the last aircraft check the scientific hut at , departed on February 15. and the and the historic huts at annual sea ice began to move out of anrl Cane Fvan<:. McMurdo Sound, the weather was mild. :bruary s weather was surprisingly Five inches of snow fell on February good with infrequent snowfalls. By the 22, and by the end of the month middle of the month the temperatures Winter Quarters Bay was icc-covcred. began to drop fairly steadily. The aver age for the month was minus 25deg C. MORE SNOW There was a cold snap at the beginning There was more snow in March, of March when the temperature dropped south-east winds bringing one inch on rapidly to minus 36deg. This period March 13, and another 24 inches fell coincided with the dog sledge and motor on March 20. The usual plumbing tobaggan journey to to repairs began in April, and the sun set erect the plaque to commemorate the on April 24. In Winter Quarters Bay winter journey of Wilson, Bowers, and the ice was 35in thick. Temperatures Cherry-Garrard in 1911. began to drop each day. New Zealand's flag was lowered on By May 19 the winter ice had built the morning of April 25 after a short up to a thickness of 42in. Two inches Anazc Day service conducted by Hamish of snow fell during the month, and Raynham. Clint Davis, a 22-year-old then the winter began to bite. Tempera technician, who is the youngest member tures dropped to minus 34dcg F on of the winter team, lowered the flag. May 21, and to minus 36dcg on May 23. After the sun departed the team began The next day was a day of frozen to adjust to the change from the con drains and water pipes. May 27 was tinual daylight to complete darkness. marked by strong easterly winds aver There were some magnetic storms in aging 42 knots with one gust of 54 April, resulting in a few impressive knots, and on May 28 the thermometer auroras, although these contained little recorded minus 36deg F. colour. The minimum temperature for In spite of the cold and darkness the the month was minus 41.4deg, and the men at McMurdo Station continued maximum was minus 12.8deg. The their task of building a wider and strongest wind gust reached 48 knots. ANTARCTIC JUNE, 1976 First N.Z. Antarctic base 20 years old in January New Zealand's first and principal station in Antarctica. Scott Base, will be 20 years old in January next year. Since 1957 its name has become synonymous with New Zealand exploration and research in the Antarctic. When the base was established at Pram Point on Ross Island, it had a double role initially. It was a scientific station in support of New Zea land's contribution to the International Geophysical Year (1957-58), and a staging point for the New Zealand element of the Commonwealth Trans- Antarctic Expedition. Scott Base was named in honour of New Zealanders — and Americans Captain Scott who, 75 years ago, named f r o m n e a r b y M c M u r d o S t a t i o n — Pram Point after the pram (Norwegian- worked round the clock in the 24 hours type dinghy) used by members of his of Antarctic summer daylight to erect first expedition to cross a lane of open the base huts. Eight men did the job— water which separated Ross Island at three Navy, three Army—and R. M. this spot from the ice shelf. Pram Point Heke. of the Ministry of Works, assisted is a low rounded cape on the south by R. R. Mitchell, was in charge. But all west side of , about the New Zealand expedition, and parties 2|km north-west of Cape Armitage. from H.M.N.Z.5. Endeavour, were in volved in the work. Pram Point was not the original choice of site for Scott Base. Butter Point, 65km On January 11 the New Zealanders west on the opposite side of McMurdo began the lask of transporting stores, equipment, and building materials from Sound, was the first choice. But this mainland site at the edge of a piedmont the ships to the base. The site was levelled on January 10 by a United States glacier, was found to have poor access bulldozer, the work being done by a by sea, and there was no satisfactory team of .Seabees. led by Lieutenant sledging route up the lower section of the Ferrar Glacier to the Polar Plateau. Richard Bowers, who had been in charge So the expedition leader, Sir Edmund of construction of the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. Hillary, looked to Ross Island, where Scott and Shackleton had made their Construction of the base began on headquarters in the first decade of the January 12, and the first New Zea century. Pram Point had the advantage landers to spend a night at Pram Point of being close to McMurdo Station, and were J. H. Miller, deputy leader of the Winter Quarters Bay, where supply ships expedition, Heke, and J. Hoffman, a discharged their cargo. D.S.I.R. explosives expert. The first hut, known simply as "A", was ready by Jan When Scott Base was established it was uary 14, It had been designed as a mess- praised by representatives of other room, radio room and leader's office, but nations as a model base for small it was used as sleeping quarters for the Antarctic expeditions. A Ministry of building part. Others lived on the site Works architect, Mr W. F. Ponder, de in tents. signed a base of six pre-fabricatcd main buildings. They were flat-roofed huts, By January 20 Scott Base was estab connected by a covered way, and sur lished. A 20-year-old Maori from the rounded by auxiliary scientific huts. Endeavour. Able Seamen Ramon Tito, JUNE, 1976 ANTARCTIC

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FIRST ARRIVALS—Above: Scott Base under construction in January, 1957. At the right is a Ferguson tractor in its original state before modification for the Pole journey. Below: A Beaver aircraft of the Royal New Zealand Air Force Flight at the Skelton Glacier depot camp in the first year. WSmmmmmW&gMV'-fr.: JUNE, 1976 raised the New Zealand flag on a flag States-New Zealand base. The three men staff used by Scott at Hut Point in 1903, had a massive task to sort out and instal and Captain H. Rucgg, in his capacity their equipment. But in spite of many as administrator of the Ross Depend difficulties they were ready when the ency, declared the base established at a I.G.Y. programme began on July 1. short ceremony. Scientists at Scott Base were largely confined to the laboratory by the nature MANY CHANGES of their work. But their first Antarctic There have been many changes at Scott summer did include some field work. Base since the hectic days of January, During a reconnaissance of a possible 1957. As scientific programmes have ex route to the Polar Plateau for the Trans- panded in line with improved air trans Antarctic Expedition in the 1957-58 sea port to and within Antarctica, the base son, a party of three from Scott Base has been modified and reshaped to made the first geological survey of the accommodate larger scientific and sup Skelton Glacier area. port teams. The original buildings, de signed for a life of three years, have NEW METHODS been considerably modified down the An Auster of the R.N.Z.A.F. Antarc years. tic Flight flew the trio to the Skelton "A" hut was given over completely to Depot, and in the next two weeks they mess and kitchen space, new huts have manhauled sledges for almost 100km. been built, and some of the originals Today modes of transport are distinctly have been resited or extended. A large different. Last season a New Zealand packing case in which the Royal New Geological Survey expedition spent two Zealand Air Force's Beaver aircraft was months and a half in the same area, and brought south in the early years was made the first New Zealand survey of even pressed into service, and converted the Skelton since 1957. into a ready-use store for kitchen sup United States Navy Iroquois helicop plies. There were big changes in the ters dropped the party of two geologists early 1960s. For example, a new garage and two field assistants at a chosen base was linked to the covered-way complex, the old one being converted for food camp site, right among the rocks they planned to study. Two motor toboggans storage. and two sledges were landed with them, New Zealand's first summer of science the little tracked toboggans a substitute in Antarctica 20 years ago, was devoted for manhauling. The men were only two to setting up continuous measuring and or three days' sledging distance from monitoring programmes in preparation Scott Base, but only an hour away by for the I.G.Y. Five scientists, led by helicopter. Dr Trevor Hatherton, moved into the Until they were replaced almost en newly-built base in January, 1957, and tirely by motor toboggans, dogs were the had their equipment in operation by basic transport for New Zealanders in March, two months ahead of schedule. the Antarctic from the time Scott Base The programmes covered ionospheric was established. More than 60 huskies physics, seismology, geomagnetism, were taken south in the first year, 15 solar radiation, auroral activity, and tide from the Auckland Zoo, 12 from Green and gravity measurements. land, and 34 from the Australian base, Mawson. Today Scott Base maintains 23 dogs — enough for two teams. Most of Early in 1957 New Zealand scientists them trace their descent from huskies also began work at Cape Hallett, 640km of Greenland-Labrador cross presented north of Scott Base. They were part of to the Australians by the French Gov the winter team of 14 at the joint United ernment. They were brought back to JUNE, 1976

Melbourne by the Commandant Charcot maintain a temperature of 60dcg F at the end of 1950 after the French had (20deg C) inside the base. established their first Antarctic base in Adelie Land. FUTURE PLANS These dogs were kept first at the Mel New Zealand's Antarctic population bourne Zoo. Then they were taken to changes every season, although some men Heard Island in 1951, and later to Maw have returned for a second or even a son Station. Then in the 1955-56 season third winter. But in spite of its modifica Mr Harry Ayres was sent to Mawson tions, Scott Base remains a permanent, Station to bring back 30 dogs for the New Zealand party of the Common compact settlement, flanked on one side by a forest of radio masts, and on the wealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition. other by spectacular pressure ridges Mr Ayres obtained 21 adult dogs and forced up by the meeting of the waves five pups at . Their ages of sea ice from McMurdo Sound with ranged from three months to five years. the flow of the Ross Ice Shelf. They were brought to Melbourne in the Kista Dan by way of Heard Island, and When he designed the first Scott Base Kerguelen Island, and then flown to buildings Mr Pender prophesied that Christchurch by way of Brisbane, Nor they should be in "first-class order in 100 folk Island, and Auckland. Later they years' time."' But after 20 years changes were taken south in H.M.N.Z.S. Endeav have to be made. New Zealand has more our with the 15 huskies bred at the than a foothold in Antarctica, and the Auckland Zoo and 12 bought from needs of the many scientists who go Greenland. south each season have outgrown the model base of 1957. There are plans to NEW STOCK replace the original buildings with a In the last 20 years new stock has larger, more modern complex of huts been introduced to minimise the effects on an adjacent site — a continuously- of inbreeding. Twelve dogs were manned station which will offer better facilities for the scientific research pro brought from Greenland in the early 1960s, and in recent years stock has grammes. come from the base on Adelaide Island, off the Antarc tic Peninsula. Now the huskies live and die at Scott Base. Motor toboggans and SCOTT BASE CALLS air transport have replaced them except for short expeditions. CHEAPER For the first winter Scott Base had a New Zealand's winter party at Scott population of 23, including the five Base this year faced the prospect of scientists and the men who formed the paying more to keep in touch with their New Zealand clement of the Trans- families during their seven months' isola Antarctic Expedition. Now only 11 men tion when postal and telephone charges winter at the base each season. Three were increased in February. The cost technicians run the continuous scientific for a call went up 375 per cent or 55 programme. The major studies of I.G.Y. cents a minute—the highest increase of are still run, and Scott Base is the any. southernmost station in a chain operated But the Postmaster-General has now from the Pacific to Antarctica. agreed that charges for winter calls will New Zealand's first residents in the be halved. His decision followed repres Antarctic may have been tougher than entations by a Christchurch member of their successors. The temperature inside Parliament, Mr B. G. Barclay, who the huts that first winter was set, by asked for a reduction because of the popular vote, at 52deg Fahrenheit party's isolation, and the lack of winter (11.1 deg Celsius). Today thermostats mail. JUNE, 1976 New to be built in two seasons Preparations for the United States Antarctic research programme in the 1976-77 season include the design of a new station to replace the present Siple Station, 2250km from McMurdo Station, at the foot of the Sentinel Mountains in Ellsworth Land. Plans are also being made for the recovery of the last of the three Hercules aircraft damaged between January and November last year at Dome C, an ice dome in Wilkes Land 1150km from McMurdo Station. Because of limited aircraft capability 319 was more damaged than the other last season the United States scientific two aircraft, and needs a new mid-wing programme was reduced by about 35 section which will be flown from per cent. In the coming season most McMurdo Station to Dome C. The of the projects which had to be can recovery operation is expected to be celled, modified or curtailed will be less difficult this time because last sea resumed. These include the Ross Ice son's team left a skiway and seven Shelf Project and the Ross Ice Shelf buildings on the ice-cap. Geophysical and Glaciological Survey. As a preliminary to its regular logistic There will be no Dry Valley Drilling support o fthe research programme, Project drilling, but there will be num the United States Navy's VXE-6 erous projects in the McMurdo Sound Squadron will make the first flights of area on the sea ice or in the dry spring early in September to end the valleys. winter isolation of 65 Americans, 11. Siple Station, which was built in New Zealanders, and one Russian 1970, is the most isolated United States exchange scientist on Ross Island. Ski- station in Antarctica. It was occupied equipped Hercules aircraft bringing by four men all winter for the first mail, fresh fruit, and vegetables, will time in 1973. Because of sickness among be the first the men have seen since the summer team, and the limited February 15. availability of air transport, the station Winfly flights (the Navy's term for the was closed for this winter. spring flights (are expected to take Present plans are for the new station about 140 passengers from New Zea buildings and the metal arch under land to McMurdo Station. Among them which they will bc housed to be shipped will bc scientists who will make an early to McMurdo Station in the coming start on summer research projects, and season. Construction of the new station technicians, meteorologists, equipment will be spread over the 1977-78 and operators, mechanics, construction 1978-79 seasons. The first winter team workers, and air traffic controllers. Some is expected to occupy the station in of these men will assist in the pre 1979. When the present station was built paration of the ice provision was made for a winter team runway for the major airlift of summer of four or five. The new station will support and scientific stall, which starts accommodate eight men for the winter. in October. Air support for radar-echo sounding PLANE SALVAGE studies in and other Recovery of the third Hercules No. areas will be provided by VXE-6 319) from Dome C will be a major task Squadron in the coming season. This for the naval support force and VXE-6 will be the fifth season of the project, Squadron in the coming season. No. which has been conducted by the Scott ANTARCTIC

Polar Research Institute in collaboration project was not continued in the 1975- with the United States Naional Science 76 season. Foundation's Division of Polar Pro Since April this year the National Science Foundation's Office of Polar grammes, and in 1974-75, for the first Programmes, which is responsible for time, with the Technical University of the Antarctic research programme, has Denmark. had a new title—Division of Polar In the 1974-75 season a specially Programmes—and Dr Robert H. Rut- configured VXE-6 Squadron Hercules ford is now division director. Other flew 50 missions for the project. New changes include the appointment of a new chief scientist, Dr Duwayne Ander radar systems built by the Technical son, formerly with the United States University of Denmark were operated Army Cold Regions Research and alongside the system developed by the Engineering Laboratories, and a new Scott Polar Research Institute. Fifty chief of the planning section, Mr Joseph missions were flown by the Hercules Bennett, formerly with the Office of over East and . The Naval Research.

South Polar Skua flies to Greenland Skuas reached the South Pole long before man, and their presence far from the rim of Antarctica was reported when expeditions attempted to reach the Pole. Since the establishment of permanent scientific stations, more notice has been taken of the way in which the South Polar skua roams the continent. South Polar skaus have been sighted there is a strong possibility that the from the South Pole Station, Byrd South Polar skua might be another Station, and . Now one bi-polar migrant. bird has flown out of the Antarctic The skua which flew to Greenland is into the Arctic. It was banded near believed to have left the Palmer Station, on Anvers Island, off area by the end of March. It was the , in January banded on a nesting ground on Shortcut last year, and was recovered in Green Island, near Palmer Station, after land by an Eskimo on July 31. hatching on January 20. ■ ■ There are other instances of South Dr David P. Parmelee. professor of P o l a r s k u a s h a v i n g fl o w n i n t h e ecology and behavioural biology at the Northern Hemiphcre, but no flights as University of Minnesota, has described the bird's flight as remarkable, but not far north as Greenland. setting a record. The Arctic tern A live moth was discovered i.. regularly makes flights from northern most Canada down the west coast of room at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Africa to the Antarctic. But the skua's Station on March. It was housed in an flight was unusual because of the short appropriate container, and kept in the time betwen banding and recovery. It station library. Three house flies and a carpet beetle discovered at Palmer provides the strongest evidence so far that South Polar skuas migrate into the Station on Anvers Island, off the Northern Hemisphere. Antarctic Peninsula, were not so lucky. They were found to have breached a Dr Parmelee says there was evidence clause in the Antarctic Treaty, and were that the flight was not accidental. Also executed. ANTARCTIC NO EXTENSION OF DRY VALLEY DRILLING PROJECT THIS YEAR Pending a more complete understanding of the results of the Dry Valley Drilling Project (DVDP) results, which is likely to come out of a seminar to be held in Japan in 1978, the United States does not plan to support further extension of DVDP drilling activities. This was announced in Washington by Dr Robert H. Rutford. director, Division of Polar Programmes, National Science Foundation. Scientific support for more drilling ing present available core in an effort in Antarctica as a means of solving to resolve the project's original scienti geological programmes, and another fic goals (better understanding of the drilling programme in the 1976-77 Cenozoic geological history of the season was expressed at the second McMurdo Sound area). Data from this DVDP seminar held in Wellington in phase of the project would contribute January this year. New Zealand and to formal presentations of results at a Japan, the other two DVDP nations, third and final DVDP seminar now were in favour of a drilling programme scheduled to take place in lapan in which would provide for the comple mid-1978. tion of the scientific objectives of DVDP DVDP field activities this coming by drilling another hole in the seabed summer, said Dr Rutford, would be sediments of McMurdo Sound. Jimited to downhole heat flow and ("Antarctic," March, 1976, Page 277). seismic velocity studies at previous drill In his statement Dr Rutford said that sites. There would be other specific participants in DVDP during 1976-77 investigations possibly it:\olving partici were expected 10 concentrate on analys pants from all three DVDP nations. Winter visitor heard but not seen Sixty-five Americans and one to 70 knots. It was unable to see Russian wintering at McMurdo Station McMurdo Station through the clouds, had their isolation broken by a visitor and could not provide information on May 18. The visitor—a United about ice and water conditions at the States Air Force Starlifter—was heard northern edge of the pack ice because but not seen because it flew over the of thickening clouds and overcast from station at 41,000ft, and was not visible about 130 miles north of the station. through the clouds and overcast. On its flight round the world the To test its navigation equipment the Starlifter dew over the North Pole Starlifter. which was on a flight round from Germany to Alaska. But it did the world, flew from Christchurch to not fly over the South Pole. It circled the Antarctic and back. Before the flight over McMurdo Station, flew some dis McMurdo Station provided a terminal tance south, and then turned back for weather forecast and kept in touch the flight back to Christchurch where with the aircraft for most of the way it landed at 5 p.m. south. The Starlifter left Christchurch In another three months the men at at 6.39 a.m. and crossed the Antarctic McMurdo Station will be able to sec Circle (60deg S) at 8.57 a.m. It arrived another aerial visitor and welcome its over McMurdo Station at 11.17 a.m. passengers and crew. The first of the During most of the flight the Star pre-scason Winfly flights will be made lifter reported north-west winds of 60 early in September. JUNE, 1976

ANARE'S FUTURE Antarctic division's move to Hobart now definite Although the Australian Government is still considering the country's future role in Antarctic research, and the administration of the scientific programme, it has reached a decision on the proposed transfer of the Antarctic Division of the Department of Science from Melbourne to Hobart. The Prime Minister (Mr Malcolm Fraser) told the House of Representatives last month there was no doubt that the transfer was going to take place. Since the defeat of the Labour subject of a full-scale review, the main Government, which decided to transfer reason being the Government's cuts in the Antarctic Division more than two public spending. He said the review years ago, there have been conflicting would take into account the Antarctic statements about the new Government's Division's association with universities, intentions. Early in February this year problems of the proposed Hobart site, the Minister for Science (Senator Web- and prospects of servicing expeditions ster) indicated that the move, planned from the new headquarters. for 1978. would be delayed indefinitely. Less than a week later, on the day Early last month Senator Webster the Government announced its new announced during the conference of economic policies, the question was the Australian and New Zealand Associ- considered by the Cabinet. Mr Fraser ation for the Advancement of Science announced the Cabinet's decision in that the proposed move would be the the form of a reply to a question asked by Mr Michael Hodgman, the Liberal M.P. for Denison, the electorate in Support Force which the site of the proposed new headquarters is included. Command DOUBT ON SITE Early this month Captain C. H. Mr Fraser said that the Antarctic Nordhill assumed command of the Division would not necessarily bc trans United States Navy's Antarctic support ferred to the site that had been chosen force. He relieved Captain E. W. Van —he understood that there was some Reeth, who, after two years in the post, doubt about the wisdom of transferring has been appointed defence ;.'.tache at it to that site—but it would be trans the United States Embassy in The ferred to Hobart; there was no doubt Hague, Netherlands. about that. Because of financial Captain Nordhill, who commanded stringencies the transfer would not be the Navy's VXE-6 Squadron in 1971 taking place forthwith or in the forth and 1972, relieved Captain Van Reeth coming financial year. But it was going at a change of command ceremony to take place. which was held on June 4 at ihe Naval Original plans were for the construc Construction P.attalion Centre, Point tion of eight buildings on a six-hectare Hucneme, California. He is the 10th bush block owned by the Government naval officer to head the support force at Kingston, about 20kms from Hobart. since 1955. Previously he was at the Seven of the buildings were for the United States Naval War College. Antarctic Division, and the eighth for JUNE, 1976

the Hobart regional laboratory of the igating the feasibility of buying all or Australian Government Analytical Lab part of the property. oratories. The cost was put first at $7 Mr Hodgman believes the site would million, and a later estimate was $8 be closer to other facilities than the million. Since then there have been proposed Kingston site. He says the suggestions that the move from Mel refrigeration facilities would enable bourne could cost twice that amount. food to be stored for expeditions, and New there is likely to be more would help to acclimatise staff to the extreme cold of Antarctica! political argument about the proposed site. The proposal for the transfer to Transfer of the Antarctic Division from Melbourne is not the only prob Hobart was made initially by the lem affecting the future of Australia's Labour M.P. for Denison. His succes future interests in Antarctica. The sor, Mr Hodgman, has now suggested that a property on the Hobart water science task force of the Royal Com front would be ideal for the Antarctic mission on Australian Government administration has recommended aboli Division. tion of the Department of Science. It H. Jones and Co. Pty. Ltd., which also suggests there should be no Min intends to transfer its operations from ister specifically designated as Minister Hobart has placed its building on the for Science. market. The price suggested for the References: Australian Federal Han two-hectare property, which includes sard, May 18, 1976; "The Age," offices, storage space, and cool stores, Melbourne, the Melbourne "Sun," is $2.5 million. The Tasmanian State "Hobart Mercury," "Launceston Ex Government is interested, and is invest aminer," "Burnie Advocate." "Antarctic" back issues and index Subscribers to "Antarctic" who wish Volume V: Nos. 1 (12), 3 (24), 4 (24), to complete their files can still obtain 5 (30), 6 (48), 7 (50), 8 (75), 9 (50), 10 back issues of most volumes from the (24). 11 (100), 12 (24). secretary of the New Zealand Antarctic Volume VI: Nos. 1 (50), 3 (50), 4 Society, P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch. (75), 6 (50), 7- (100), 8 (50), 9 (100), No back issues of Volume II are avail 10 (50), 11 (50), 12 (50). able, however, and there are gaps in Volume VII: Nos. 1 (100), 2 (150), 4 other volumes. (100), 5 (100), 6 (24), 7 (50), 8 (50), 9 Back issues cost SI in New Zealand (150). currency. Those more than five years Copies of the index for all volumes old cost $1.50, and there is a discount except Volume III are still available. of 10 per cent for 20 or more copies. The price is $1 in New Zealand cur Overseas subscribers should ensure that rency or the local equivalent. Numbers their remittances are converted into available are: Volume I (1956-58), 6; New Zealand currency. Volume II (1959-61), 12; Volume IV Issues still available are: (1965-67), 70; Volume V (1968-70), 10; Volume I: Nos. 4 (24), 5 (12). 6 (30), Volume VI (1971-73), 30. 7 (24), 11 (12), 12 (3). Unwanted copies of "Antarctic" not Volume III: Nos. 6 (24), 8 (48), 9 listed here are needed by the New (50), 6 (24), 10 (150), 11 (100), 12 (100). Zealand secretary. The society is Volume IV: Nos. 1 (150), 2 (100), 3 'endeavouring to assemble additional (100), 4 (100), 5 (100), 6 (100), 7 (100), complete files of the bulletin. Unwanted 8 (200), 9 (100), 10 (100), 11 (36), 12 copies of the index would also be (20). appreciated. ,;•:;;" •-5, J *r- ■

JUNE, 1976 ANTARCTIC

B.A.S. NEWS Winter routine for 80 men at permanent bases Eighty men have now settled down to routine winter activities at the five permanent bases of the British Antarctic Survey. This year the winter teams include an advance party of four men at the new base at Rothera Point, which is 64km to the north-east of the present base on Adelaide Island. The Adelaide Island base will be transferred to Rothera Point in the coming season. In March the Royal Research Ship ment and base members was played in a John Biscoe revisited Signy Island and semi-blizzard. It resulted in a win for South Georgia, as scheduled. It picked the home side — perhaps because they up men and mail, and transported the were more familiar with the terrain. The B.B.C. television crew which spent three Bransfield then left for the Falkland months filming in the Antarctic Penin Islands and arrived at Southampton on sula area, and the northern islands. The May 19. John Biscoe then returned to the Falk Both the B.A.S. Twin Otter aircraft land Islands and headed for home, arriv completed their summer programmes in ing back at Southampton on April 20. February, and were then flown north for Amongst its cargo were frozen biological their annual overhaul at de Havilland's, specimens, and vehicles and other equip Toronto. One, with its pilot and engin ment for overhaul. eer, is now on a three months' charter to Meanwhile the R.R.S. Bransfield called Taylor-Woodrow for work in the Middle at Adelaide Island, and the replacement East. It is at present in Oman. station at Rothera Point in March. It NEW COMPLEX landed supplies, including tractors, which had been transferred from Malley Bay. After 33 years the Survey now has a Earlier men from the Royal Navy's ice permanent headquarters building in patrol ship, H.M.S. Endurance, assisted Cambridge where all its scientific, admin in the construction of an aircraft radio istrative, and logistic activities are con beacon and an anemometer tower at centrated. The new complex of buildings, Rothera: the new air strip there was in specially designed and built for the Sur use throughout last season. The Argen vey, was officially opened on May 7 by tine , General San Martin, and the Duke of Edinburgh, who unveiled a a Polish yacht, Gedania, also visited commemorative stone of Antarctic Adelaide Island in March. granophyrc. He was welcomed by Sir Peter Kent, chairman of the Natural FINAL VISITS Environment Council, of which the Sur The Bransfield then turned north and vey has been a component body since paid final visits to the Argentine Islands 1967. and Signy Island before returning to Prince Philip's interest in the Antarc South Georgia in mid-April to pick up tic began during his 1956-57 world tour. parties which had been working in the After he opened the Olympic Games in field for five months. By then the Melbourne, and visited other places in weather had deteriorated, and there had Australia and New Zealand, he sailed been several bases. for the Antarctic Peninsula in H.M.Y. The traditional end-of-season football Britannia. There he transferred to the match between the Bransfield comple R.R.S. John Biscoe and visited a num- I _"~""

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The central courtyard of the British Antarctic Survey's new headquarters at Cambridge, which was officially opened on May 7 by the Duke of Edinburgh. ber of British I.G.Y. bases. One of his War. For some years after Operation guests on board was the late Sir Rymond Tabarin high priority had to be given Priestley, then acting director of the to geographical exploration and map Survey in the absence of Sir Vivian ping. It was not until 1950 that a small Fuchs. office (the Falkland Islands Dependencies B.A.S. REUNION Scientific Bureau) was set up in London After the ceremony Prince Philip under the directorship of Sir Vivian toured the building, looking at equip Fuchs to organise exploration and map ment and scientific exhibits. Later he was ping and publish the results. thanked by the director, Dr Richard RAPID EXPANSION Laws. Among the guests were represen Programmes expanded rapidly in the tatives of the city and University of next few years, largely as a result of the Cambridge, and of institutions with impetus given to Antarctic research by which the Survey has been closely asso the International Geophysical Year, ciated over the years. Others present 1957-58. But by 1956 scientific adminis were members of the Survey's predeces tration had to be expanded because of sors, the British Graham Land Expedi the increasing volume and complexity of tion, 1934-37, and the Discovery Investi the scientific work. With limited funds gations. this was achieved by setting up units in A B.A.S. reunion was held on May 8. appropriate university departments and On May 22 there was a visit by the research institutes. Friends of the Scott Polar Research When Britain became a signatory to Institute. the Antarctic Treaty the Survey's future British scientific programmes in the became assured. The Antarctic part of Antarctic have been almost continuous the Falklands Islands Dependencies was since 1925, having been interrupted only rc-designated British Antarctic Territory for four years during the Second World in 1962, and the name of the Survey JUNE, 1976

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Wartime links with the Royal Navy in Antarctic scientific research have been continued by the British Antarctic Survey. This B.A.S. photograph shows one of the helicopters from the ice patrol ship, H.M.S. Endurance, flying over the mountains of northern Marguerite Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula. changed to British Antarctic Survey. sciences, atmospheric physics, and All the scientific sections flourished but administration. There is a permanent their wide dispersal had its disadvan stall' of about 70, but numbers will bc tages. Continued development of the doubled during the summer months by Survey's science needed simultaneous the influx of contract stalT who will bc development of the headquarters' activi trained before going south, and those ties — staff selection and logistics, the who return to write up the results of maintenance of ships and aircraft, the their work. co-ordination of field programmes, and Already the conference room has been the provision of central services. put to good use. Last month there were To ensure maximum efficiency it was meetings of the S.C.A.R. conservation necessary to house all sections together committee, the bird biology sub-commit in one place in permanent accommoda tee, and the biology working group. tion. The new complex constitutes the Some of their members also took part in greatest landmark in the Survey's history a discussion meeting on scientific re to date. It provides a full range of labor search in Antarctica. This was convened atories, including a wet laboratory and a in London by the Royal Society, and cold room, rock crushing and sectioning organised by Sir Vivian Fuchs and Dr facilities, a garage-workshop and pack Richard Laws. The proceedings will be ing store, a conference room, and central published in the Philosophical Transac services such as a computer, library, and tions of the Royal Society. Most of the photographic dark-room. papers were presented by members of EARTH SCIENCES the B.A.S. On the ground floor there is provision [Some of the material in this report for earth sciences, marine and fresh has been summarised from a commemor water biology, terrestrial biology, ex ative booklet produced by the British ternal scientific projects, and logistics. Antarctic Survey for the opening of its The upper level has more space for earth new headquarters building.] ANTARCTIC JUNE, 1976

SOVIET NEWS Major traverse to Dome C and Dumont d'Urville A major Soviet geomagnetic traverse in East Antarctica from Pionerskaya (60deg 50min S.. 95deg 30min E) to Dome C (74deg 30min S., 125deg E) in Wilkes Land, 1150km from McMurdo Station, and on to the French base, Dumont d'Urville (66deg 40min S., 140deg 01 min E) is planned for the International Magnetospheric Study (IMS). 1976-79. The traverse is linked with the International Antarctic Glaciological Project (1AGP) for the study of the in which Australia, France, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States have worked together for several years. Pionerskaya, which is about 400km OtherOther scientific scientific work work carried carried out at from Mirny, is on the traverse route DruzhnayaDruzhnaya included included experimental experimental para-para to Vostok. It was the first Soviet chutechute landings landings of of instruments instruments on on the inland station, and was in use from FilchnerFilchner Ice Ice Shelf Shelf for for seismic, seismic, gravity. gravity, May 27. 1956, to January 15, 1959. andand magnetic magnetic measurements. measurements. Stations Since then it has been used by Soviet werewere selected selected for for the the establishment establishment of a scientists each season during their groundground radio-geodetic radio-geodetic system. system. This This will will glaciological studies. The proposed enableenable aircraft aircraft positions positions to be co-co geomagnetic traverse, which is likely ordinatcd,ordinated, and the astronomical co-co to bc spread over several seasons, would ordinates ordinates of of stations stations to to be determined.determined, cover more than 2300km. DruzhnayaDruzhnaya is similar is similar to to the the Soviet Soviet Soviet scientific research was extended base base on on the the Amery Amery Ice Ice Shelf, Shelf, and is to the southern part of the Weddell expectedexpected to to be be in in use use until until about about 1980. Sea area in the 1975-76 season. The It It will will serve serve as as a a base base camp camp to to support scientists worked from a new station, geologicalgeological and and geophysical geophysical surveys in Druzhnaya (77deg 58min S., 39deg thethe Shackleton Shackleton Range, Range, Theron Theron MounMoun- 18min W), established for summer work tains, Pensacola Mountains, and mounmoun- on the Filchner Ice Shelf. It was in tainstains '» in the the south-east south-east of of the the Antarctic Antarctic use for two months, and the scientific Peninsula,Peninsula. team then returned to Leningrad aboard .££ICE STUDIES STUDIES the research ship Kapitan Markov. Glaciological investigations for tne ANCIENT ROCKS International Antarctic Glaciological A preliminary reconnaissance was Project were continued along the line made for the long-range programme of from Mirny to Vostok. The distance exploration of the mountain systems between these stations is 1500km, and which fringe the . Geolo in past seasons the tractor sledge trains gists made helicopter flights to the have covered only a fifth of the distance Shackleton Range and the Pensacola each year. Last season the distance was Mountains, and collected rock and doubled, and a tractor sledge train mineral samples for further study. They covered about 600km and reached the discovered rock at least 4000 million area of the former Vostok I station, years old—some of the oldest on earth which was in use during the first five —and made the first ascent of the years of the Soviet traverse programme. slopes of the Shackleton Range. During the traverse from Mirny geo- ANTARCTIC magnetic observations were made along POLAR LIVING the route. . New automatic magnetic Psychological studies of men working variation stations were installed, and at Soviet stations have shown that they existing ones were checked. are the best model of a confined social Aerial ice reconnaissance was ton- community with stable relationships. ducted in the regions of four coastal Complete isolation, winter darkness, and stations, Molodezhnaya, Mirny, Lcnin- freezing temperatures, have not created gradskaya, and Novolazarevskaya. Aero- barriers between the men. meteorological,, hydrological, geophysi cal, radiometric, and glaciological Examinations at Mirny showed a observations were from the expedition's more stable situation there than at the ships, Mikhail Somov and Professor smaller stations, and the psychologists Vize. Meteorological observations suggested that the best size for a polar were made along the routes of 'hree community is between 50 and 70, with other ships of the Soviet Antarctic fleet, a mixture of people with different Kapitan Markov, Vasiliy Fedoseyev, and professions and interests. Mirny provides Mikhail Kalinin. an opportunity for the men who live there to have a balanced day of work RADIO PROBES and play with plenty of facilities for New research last season included recreation. studies of the nature of blizzards and hurricanes, and additional radio nrobing of the near-surface layer of the FIRST STATION atmosphere. Teams from the expedition Twenty years ago the Soviet Union continued and completed the drilling of established its first station in Antarctica. a shelf glacier near Novolazarevskaya. The hoisting of the flag at Mirny was In the 1974-75 season the scientists who commemorated in Leningrad earlier began the drilling, using a thermodrill, this year. Professor Alexei Treshnikov, struck a rock bed at the 374-metre director of the Arctic and Antarctic level, and obtained an intact column of Research Institute, and the Soviet core. Union's most eminent polar scientist, Eleven scientists from East Germany used the occasion to emphasise that took part in the work of last season's his country did not pursue any political expedition. An American geophysicist or economic goal by its steadily mount worked at Vostok under the scientific ing contribution to research in exchange programme. Antarctica. Russkaya station not yet manned A new Soviet coastal station, Russ the ice-bound shores of the Hobbs kaya, is named on the map of Antarctica Coast. which appears on the inside front cover of "Antarctic". But it still has to be Three temporary houses, food, and established by a Soviet expedition. some equipment were flown to Cape Burks by helicopter, but work had to bc In the 1972-73 season the opening of discontinued because of icing of the Ob. Russkaya at Cape Burks (74deg 42min The intention then was for a party to S/131deg 51min W) on the Hobbs Coast of , was delayed for a winter at Russkaya in the winter of 1974. year. One of the main tasks of the 18th Soviet Antarctic Expedition was to However, nothing was done in Ihe establish the station, but bad weather 1973-74 and 1974-75 seasons, and there prevented the supply and research ship has been no indication in Soviet reports Ob coming closer than 200 miles to of when the station will be manned. ANTARCTIC Call for review of Japan's research activities Japan's future research activities in Antarctica should include basic studies of the development of the continent's natural resources, and the effect of such development on the environment. Large research projects of great scientific significance should be carried out on a priority basis over the next 10 years. These recommendations recommendations are are contained contained became independent as the National in a a report report to to the the headquarters headquarters for for the the Institute of Polar Research, also under promotion of of Antarctic Antarctic research research of of the the the Ministry's jurisdiction. Ministry of of Education. Education. Science, Science, and and Research activities of the institute Culture, which which has has supervised supervised Japanese Japanese cover many scientific disciplines. Its Antarctic activities activities since since 1956. 1956. The The major effort is directed to the Antarctic, report was made made by by the the Council Council for for It is responsible for carrying out the the Study Study of of Future Future Problems Problems of of scientific and logistic programmes of Antarctica, and and was was approved approved by by the the the Japanese Antarctic Research headquarters at at its its general general meeting meeting in in Expedition (JARE). JARE is under the Tokyo in inApril. April. authority of JARE Headquarters, of In its its call call for for a a review review of of Japan's Japan's which the Minister of Education, Antarctic research projects the council Science, and Culture, is chairman. suggested that basic studies of the development of natural resources should include geological features, and inter national co-operation in such studies. If Japan developed natural resources in Antarctica, a separate government In future the British Antarctic Survey's organisation should be created by the two research ships will each have two reorganisation or elimination of the masters. They will share the eight- H e a d q u a r t e r s f o r P r o m o t i o n o f Antarctic Research. month Antarctic voyage, and duties in The report also said that Syowa the United Kingdom—supervising the Station on East Ongul Island off Prince annual refits, and taking part in planning Harald Coast was an advantageous point the ships' programmes. In the past for aurora observations, but it had dis- masters' duties have prevented them advantages for geological and biological from taking their anual leave research. This was because transport of This new arrangement came into materials across the sea ice to East force when the Bransfield and the John Ongul Island became difficult in Biscoe sailed south in October. Captain summer. John Cole joined Captain Stuart Since Japan established Syowa Lawrence as master of the Bransfield. Station in preparation for the Inter He joined the Survey in 1960, and national Geophysical Year (1957-58) served in the R.R.S. John Biscoe and there have been several changes in the Shackleton, becoming master of the administration of the nation's research former in 1969. He resigned in 1972 and programme. The Polar Research Section joined the Scottish Marine Biological was established in the National Science Association to be able to spend more Museum in Tokyo in 1962 under the time at home. Captain Chris Elliott jurisdiction of the Ministry of Educa (formerly chief officer) joined Captain tion, Science, and Culture. This body Malcolm Phelps as master of the John has since been expanded, and in 1973 Biscoe. SUB-ANTARCTIC Biological work on Marion and Prince Edward Islands Since 1965 South Africa has supported several research programmes into the biology of its two sub-Antarctic islands, Marion and Prince Edward. The first scientific expedition in 1965-66 yielded much informa tion on the geology, zoology and botany of the two islands. The original biological programme has since developed into three subordinate pro grammes, concentrated respectively on the mammalogical, ornithological and biogeochemical aspects of the islands' ecosystems. The Mammal Research Institute of the is done on foot. Six circular asbestos University of Pretoria has, since July, huts were constructed at various points 1973, had at least one mammalogist with round the island in November, 1974. an assistant on Marion. Mr P. R. Condy These huts provide comfortable refuge has been studying the ecology of the and enable the biologists, in particular elephant seal and the Amsterdam fur the mammalogists, to work at distant seal. He also collected information on parts of the island. the seasonal appearance of the killer On Marion Island the fur seals occupy whale since July, 1973 until April. 1975. the north and west coasts while the Mr R. van Aarde has been studying the elephant seals occupy the south and ecology of the feral cat and house mouse east coasts. Since the main base lies on populations. the east coast, some months have been The seal programme includes growth spent camping on the west coast to studies of young elephant seals, intra- study the fur seals. seasonal and inter-seasonal movements For the next two to three years the of both species, seasonal abundance and specimens and data will be processed haul-out patterns of both species, and and analysed at the institute. Short visits aspects of the reproductive physiology to the island to complete the data are and taxonomy of the fur seal. Some envisaged. The present five-year pro behavioural work has been done but gramme will provide a picture of the the climatic conditions rather limit the mammal ecology from a more general scope. point of view. Thereafter, specific The small mammal programme on the aspects will be studied on a more inten feral cats and mice includes population sive basis. studies, breeding ecology, aspects of the The present ornithological programme cats predator-prey relationship, growth is a five-year one which started in studies and reproductive physiology. April, 1973 and is conducted by the Again climate and the secretive nature Fitzpatrick Institute for Ornithological of the cats, limits the scope of behav Studies of the University of Cape Town. ioural studies. The aims of the programme that were Facilities on the island arc ideal formulated determined the scope of the considering the logistic problems. There project. They will be to determine the are two laboratories with all basic neces energy and mineral contributions of the sities. Recently a large freeze room has birds to the Marion Island ecosystem, been constructed which is of great and to assess the ecological adaptations, value to the mammal programme. There the energy needs and strategies of the are no vehicles (apart from wheel birds breeding in the maritime sub- barrows) on the island, so all field work Antarctic region. JUNE, 1976

The programme was initiated by a form important elements in the diets of preparatory period in which all relevant the skua and the feral cats. material had to be collected. It entailed Finally, the energy cost was assessed a literature search, purchasing of equip during moult of the Rockhopper and ment and experimenting with methods Macaroni penguins. The visiting of a and techniques on local seabirds. couple of vagrant birds was also Being adequately equipped for the recorded, some of them for the first task, two ornithologists, Messrs A. J. time, especially waders and passerines. Williams and A. J. Burger embarked on This initial field period is now being the French vessel Marion Dufresne early followed up by a laboratory phase in January, 1974. They were followed where all the accumulated data and in October by Mr A. Berruti. specimens are being processed. A second field period is to begin in April, ISLAND BIRDS 1976, during which certain aspects will The primary objective of the intial bc extended, gaps filled and a few more field period was to obtain data for the areas opened. The material collected determination of total biomass and will then be processed to complete the seasonal standing crops of 13 avian programme in April, 1978. species readily accessible from the base. Apart fro mall the other publications, First, a census of the 13 key species was the Fitzpatrick Institute intends to com carried out over the whole of Marion pile a field guide to the birds on Marion Island from January to April, and in Island for the use of future expeditions. May on the eastern coastal area of Prince Edward Island. For seasonal assessment of populations. regular monthly censuses were made in areas near the base. Cupboard was Ten species were thoroughly studied in respect of breeding biology, and a bare mass of information was gathered by Four New Zealanders and four making daily checks over a six-month Americans made a three-day sledging period. Never before has such a detailed trip from Scott Base last month to study involving so many species over a visit an isolated Weddell seal colony, one-year period been attempted in the but when they got there the cupboard sub-Antarctic region. was bare. The seals apparently had Egg samples of all key species were travelled further north for the winter. obtained which were analysed in the The colony, at White Island, 25km laboratory to obtain the calorific values. south of Scott Base, has been studied Also incubation temperatures were during past summers, but it is rarely measured by telemetry from eggs of visited in winter. The sledging party the Gentoo and Rockhopper penguins, was led by the dog handler, Mike Wing, Southern Giant Petrel, sooty albatross of Taupo. With him were Roger Jones and the kelp gull. (technician), of Gore, John Thomson The young of 10 species were (mechanic), of Temuka, Grant Eamcs weighed as soon as they hatched, and (mechanic), of Lake Ohau, and four thereafter for the next 40 consecutive Americans from McMurdo Station. days, and afterwards at regular inter Travelling with two dog teams and vals, to record their energy require a motor toboggan, the eight men left ments and the energy cost to the parents. Scott Base in fine weather with a temp Young of the more prolific species were erature of minus 38deg Celsius. When culled at different growth stages to they arrived at White Island after sledg determine body fat and protein composi ing across the permanent McMurdo tion. A number of petrels were culled ice shelf, they found the colony to obtain carcase calorific value, as these deserted. *JI _

JUNE, 1976 ANTARCTIC

SKELTON SUMMER Between two glaciers in Antarctic "banana belt" By K. R. SULLIVAN Five borine, uncomfortable hours encapsulated in the gloomy, noisy, cavernous body of a United States Air Force Starlifter saw the transition from a humid, drizzling Christchurch to the white stillness of Antarctica. Arrival brought relief and elation at being able to walk about this strange wilderness. The purpose of my trip was to bc field A few days of fumbling around in assistant on a geological expedition to cumbersome down trousers and jackets the Skelton-Koettlitz Glaciers, about 80 in the biting, numbing, unceasing wind kilometres south-west of Scott Base. dispelled the tattered remnants of our "The banana belt of the Antarctic", illusions about "Banana Belt" weather. said the party leader, Dr David Skinner, but during the hectic days at Scott Base K. R. Sullivan was a field assistant in we had few opportunities to contemplate last season's programme. the prospects of balmy weather. As seems usual for most field parties, there For all save two of our 24 days on the was always so much to do and so little outcrop the wind was a constant com time. panion. One grew accustomed to it so November 1 came and two flame red that the silence of its absence was quite United States Navy helicopters arrived eerie. The little flag flapping and snap to put us and our 5,5001bs of gear into ping with defiant futility seemed to the field. Our put-in site was a large embody our transient relationship with outcrop of rock bounded by the Skelton, this land—we might stay awhile but Cocks and Baronick Glaciers. On land eventually the elements would triumph, ing we had our first intimation of the fraying us. and our visit would have been tropical weather which we had expected, the barest ripple on the continent. minus 2PC and a gentle 30-knot breeze. Towards the end of our stay at this The 2ft high sastrugi, elegantly carved camp we had a flying visit from Hamish out of the hard snow were irrefutable Raynham. the Scott Base leader who, evidence that the wind was no occasional in his capacity as returning oflicer, visitor. brought our voting papers for the Gen Undeterred, we chopped platforms for eral Election on November 29. When I the tents, and as the last helicopter de was huddled in a polar tent the hurly parted we hoisted our flag and began to burly of New Zealand political life settle in with only the wind and the cold seemed remote, unrelated to my present Antarctic vastness as companions in our conditions, and our democratic right to solitude. There were four of us in the vote a bit nonsensical. party which had come to study the low- Four days later, our geological work grade meta sediments of the Skelton and completed, we broke camp, lowered our upper Koettlitz Glaciers and the hither already fraying flag, and set off down the to unvisited Mt Cocks area which lay Cocks Glacier to the Skelton, 715 metres between the two glaciers. Barry Water- below. house was the other geologist and Gary The two motor toboggans had a hard Brehaut the field leader. job pulling the three sledges over the ANTARCTIC JUNE, 1976

sastrugi, requiring us to cut a path in With Christmas coming we finished places. The drop got steeper and steeper our circuit of the Skelton and returned and we suffered our first casualty when to the mouth of the Cocks where we a sledge rolled, snapping one of our waited to be picked up by helicopter and spare skis. The crux of the descent was ferried up to the slopes of Mt Cocks. reached in the lower part of the Cocks While waiting, the fine weather finally Glacier. It was an ice fall which we ran out, and a series of overcast days edged around at one end, manhandling brought snow and a continuing fall i: and relaying the sledges and toboggans temperature. across and down the steep, glassy ice. Our lift was completed during a short Although it was minus 13°C, everyone break in the weather and somewhat sweated as the heavy sledges were diffi envious eyes watched "Gentle 18" flying cult to manhandle. By a combination of back to base, and its series of Christ teamwork and hard labour the ice fall mas parties while we were faced with was behind us and all that remained the prospect of further snow falls. were the large swales of bare ice that ran down into the Skelton. When we For seven and a half consecutive days finally made camp we had taken 11 hours we had a white Christmas as snow fell to cover six miles, but were safely down in a complete whiteout. In the con on the Skelton. tinual effort to dispel the boredom and frustration of these days we spent long Once down, the wind died and the hours dreaming of the cold beer and hot temperature rose. Apart from a blizzard days of a New Zealand summer. lasting two days we had continually bril liant weather for a month, climaxing in Towards the end of the year the a minus 2°C heat wave. The party weather relented and in a 24-hour effort worked its way down the glacier with we made the first ascent and traverse of little mishap, save for inadvertently Mt Cocks, 2438 metres, with 1976 arriv wandering into a crevasse field, until ing as we were just below the summit. Teall Island was reached. With the New Year we were on the A climb to the top of the island on move again. Under clear skies and over one particularly crystal day produced a hard, firm snow our expedition sledged stunning panorama of glacier after glac across the Cocks n6ve and through a ier as we looked down the limitless ice pass into the head of the Koettlitz Glac shelf. Amidst this tumbling profusion of ier. With the ideal conditions and beau flowing ice and over-towering mountains tiful mountains close by the sledging was the only sound that could be heard was perfect. the beating of one's own heart. Once in the Koettlitz the weather From Teall Island we turned north again closed in and remained cold and again and ran back up the Skelton, fol indifferent for the remainder of our trip. lowing in the famous footsteps of Fuchs After working around Hooper Crags we and Hillary. On the way we had our first moved down to the Foster Glacier where, serious mishap when a sledge rolled onto after 77 days in the field, we were lifted David Skinner's leg, badly wrenching his back to Scott Base and the civilised de muscles. Fortune must have been smil lights of warm showers and clean ing on us, for no bones were broken clothes. and he was flown out for a week's rest During out time in the field we at Scott Base. During his absence his enjoyed an average temperature of place in the tent was taken by Dr Susan below minus 10°C and were able to West who, by her enthusiasm and spend only 58 per cent of our time ability, quickly fitted into the party. "A working. But despite the bad weather really good bloke," as one member put we managed to complete most of the project. ANTARCTIC THE READER WRITES | Sidelights of Antarctic Research ■ Letters, preferably not longer than 500 to 600 words, are invited from readers who have observed some little-known facet of Antarctic life or have reached conclusions of interest on some Antarctic problem — Editor

MEN WITH BYRD Young wintered with the second ex pedition, and assisted in the biological Sir,—Nearly 50 years have passed field work. Bernard L. Fleming was since the two ships of Rear Admiral attached to Dr T. C. Poultcr's scientific Richard Byrd's first Antarctic expedi staff, and Dr L. H. Potaka replaced the tion sailed south from Dunedin. The original doctor, and was the first Maori young men aboard the City of New to winter in Antarctica. York and the Eleanor Boiling are now veterans, and their ranks arc growing The Antarctic historian, L. B. Quarter- smaller as the years go by. Most of main, listed all the New Zealanders— them were Americans; there were also even the three stowaways found aboard 19 New Zealanders. the Jacob Ruppert—and mentioned some in "New Zealand and the Antarc New Zealanders helped to crew the tic." The record needs to be brought ships of Byrd's second expedition in up-to-date.—Yours, etc. 1933-35. Thirty-six sailed in the Jacob JAMES PIGG Ruppert and the Bear of Oakland, and three wintered at Little America. The service of the New Zealanders, and their contribution to the success of both PENGUIN EGG expeditions, is not generally known, and is in danger of being forgotten. Sir,—Dr Storehouse's information on the Emperor penguin egg collected dur- Perhaps it is not too late to find out more about these men. How many of : 55 arc still alive, and where are they does not quite bring the story up-to-date. now? Their experiences are worth re cording for they are as much a part of The Norwich Museum did once have New Zealand's short history of Antarctic the egg, but in 1962 they presented it to activity as the men who established Scott the museum of the Scott Polar Research Base. Institute where it is now displayed, The first New Zealanders to join Byrd appropriately enough, alongside a much were Percy J. Wallis, who served as a later egg collected by Dr Stonehouse sailmaker aboard the City of New York, himself.—Yours, etc. and R. Parks, assistant cook on the C. A. HOLLAND, Eleanor Boiling. Four men served with Curator. both expeditions, H. R. Young, a former Royal Navy diver (City of New York and Little America), J. N. F. Ncwbold (Eleanor Boiling and Bear of Oakland), A. B. Robinson, who was third mate of the City of New York and second mate of the Bear of Oakland, and J. Robinson (City of New York and Jacob Ruppert). ANTARCTIC JUNE, 1976

ANTARCTIC BOOKSHELF ANTARCTIC ADVENTURE. SCOTT'S NORTHERN PARTY By Raymond E. Priestley Melbourne University Press and C. Hurst and Co., Ltd. 382pp. Two maps, 150 illustrations. N.Z. price S14.40. This reprint of Sir Raymond Priest In his letter of January 23, 1911, to ley's story of the experiences of Scott's Commander Victor Campbell (the leader Northern Party was planned before the of the Northern Party), Scott forsaw author's death in 1974. But it is an the possibility of the party (originally appropriate tribute to an eminent known as the Eastern Party) facing a scientist who is remembered by all who second winter away from . knew him for his patience, kindness, When the Terra Nova was prevented by humility, and humour—qualities which ice from relieving the Northern Party helped him and his companions to in the autumn of 1912, the six men endure their privations at Cape Adare were completely unprepared for this and on Inexpressible Island. eventuality. "Antarctic Adventure" was published Priestley mentioned three icquisitcs in 1914 by T. Fisher Unwin on the for their survival—hot food, light, and eve of the First World War. It has shelter. The few penguins and seals at become a rare Antarctic classic because Inexpressible Island provided food and most of the stocks of the first edition fuel. Light was provided by a blubber were destroyed during the war. The lamp improvised from a tin >nd a reprint, which is identical, will bring piece of string for a wick. Shelter was the book to a wider readership. The in the form of an undei ground igloo only additions to the facsimile reprint or cave, deep enough to lie in but i ot are a four-page foreword by Sir Vivian to stand up in properly. Fuchs. and four additional pages of "The Songs of the Northern Party". The roof of the cave often threatened to collapse. Ventilation was always a Only the photographs have suffered problem. The meagre food available in the new edition. They have lost was rationed with a discipline without some of the clarity of the originals. which more of the parly woidd have Most of the photographs were taken by survived. Dr Murray Levick, who was the official photographer to the Northern Party. In the spring they emerged blubber- It is surprising that Levick and Priest soaked and weak. Petty Officer Brown ley obtained such good photographs ing was close to death. A change of despite the conditions in which they clothing all around, carefully deferred had to work. Priestley is right to claim until this time, lifted morale. In that some of the results would not have December, 1912, the party i cached Cape disgraced Ponting himself. He says Evans after sledging 260 miles. For that the good results, in spite of the part of the journey the men had to cat frozen penguin flesh. long period between exposure and development, were obtained because the Priestley's narrative reflects the films and plates remained frozen prac cheerfulness, positive approach ard sheer tically the whole time, and chemical will to survive, which seem to be the reaction was retarded so much as to hallmarks ol" many of these early become inadequate to produce any explorers. perceptible result. JUNE, 1976 ANTARCTIC

OBITUARY Last survivor of smallest Antarctic winter party Fifty-five years ago two young Englishmen joined an expedition to Graham Land. Two of the four members of the rather grandly named British Imperial Expedition abandoned the project and returned to England. T. W. Bagshawe. a 19-year-old geologist, and Lieutenant M. C. Lester. R.N.R.. a navigator, who was in his early twenties, remained. They became the smallest party ever to winter in the Antarctic, and the first British party to do so in Graham Land. For more than a year Bagshawe and South Pole, and a three-year circum Lester lived at Water Boat Point on the navigation of the Antarctic Continent. Danco Coast of the Antarctic Peninsula When this ambitious project failed under the most primitive conditions. because of insufficient finance, Cope had They built a hut from an old decked-in to be content with a much smaller ex ship's boat and packing cases, and lived pedition — himself as leader, Captain for nine months on little but minced G. H. Wilkins, later Sir Hubert Wilkins, seal and penguin breast. In the most as second-in-command, Bagshawe and difficult conditions they carried out a Lester. restricted but most gallant programme Norwegian whalers were to take the of scientific work. party to the Weddell Sea coast of Thomas Wyatt Bagshawe, the last sur- Graham Land. There Nordcnskjold's old vivcr of the tiny expedition, died at hut on Snow Hill Island was to have Worthing on January 28 this year at the been used as a base, and a sledge jour age of 74. More than 35 years have ney made southward to prove a con passed since he was persuaded by Pro nection between Graham Land and Fil- fessor Frank Debenham to write an chner's discovery of Prince Luitpold account of the expedition. His modestly Land on the other side of the Weddell told story. "Two Men in the Antarctic," Sea. reveals how much he and Lester achiev But ice conditions in Antarctic Sound ed by quiet determination and persever prevented the landing of the party at ance in most trying conditions. . Therefore, in mid-January, Bagshawe was educated at Rugby, 1921, the four men were landed with and Gonville and Caius College. Cam their stores in Andvord Bay (68deg 48min S., 62deg 43min W.) on the west bridge. In 1920 he joined J. L. Cope's British Imperial Expedition. This expedi coast of Graham Land. The landing tion originally was conceived on a place which they called Water Boat grandiose scale by Cope, who had been Point, was at a spot known to the doctor and biologist with the whalers as Paradise Bay, where an old decked-in ship's boat was drawn up on Party of Shackleton's Imperial Trans- Antarctic Expedition of 1914-1917. a low gravel spit. Attempts were made to find a prac POLE FLIGHT tical route for sledging the stores across Cope's plans included the use of 12 to the eastern coast. But they were un war surplus Royal Air Force planes to successful because the whole of the fly in relays from New Harbour, on the mountainous tableland, rising 6000ft to west coast of McMurdo Sound, to the 8000ft in the neighbourhood, was be- ANTARCTIC tween the party and its objective. After eggs, minced seal meat, and penguin about 30 miles of the coastline had been breast. surveyed in cloud and fog, it was decided that Cope should return to In the year and a day Bagshawe and Montevideo and obtain a ship the next Lester spent at Water Boat Point they year to transfer the stores to the other collected an incredible mass of scientific side of the peninsula. Wilkins decided material. They took two-hourly meteoro to abandon the expedition and return to logical readings from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. England. every day, and kept meteorological, ice, and natural history logs. For 40 days on Wilkins and Lester then set out in the end hourly tidal observations were made expedition's boat in search of the Nor day and night, which allowed them the wegian whalers. Bagshawe was left at minimum of sleep. Water Boat Point to continue the meteorological observations. They re turned a week later, and on March 4 PENGUIN EGGS Wilkins and Cope departed, leaving the Apart from this the two men were two young men to spend the winter. kept busy cooking and attending to their stove, and supplying themselves with Why did Bagshawe and Lester decide food. In his book Bagshawe indicates to remain in the Antarctic, and not fol their devotion to science. He says that low the example of their more experi Lester "very considerately" put aside enced ciders? It appears they had come any idea of eating the first penguin eggs south with the intention of wintering, of the spring until there were enough for and were determined to remain what scientific observation. ever the consequences. Captain O. Andersen, of the whaling factory ship Cope did not return, but Sir Ernest Svcnd Foyn I, visited them on March 5, Shackleton, before leaving in the Quest and tried to pursuade them to return to on his last Antarctic expedition, under Europe with him. He took a fatherly took to go to the relief of Bagshawe and interest in the two young men, and Lester. Wilkins had joined the Quest promised that if Cope did not return in expedition after he returned to England. 1922, he would come to their relief him However, the explorers were relieved on self. January 13, 1922, when Captain Ander sen arrived with Mr A. G. Bennett, the HUT OF SORTS Falkland Islands Dependencies magis trate. After the whalers left the two men had to decide the problem of accommoda After his return to England Bagshawe tion. A hut of sorts was built from the had no close association with the Antarc old boat and packing cases; the prob tic, although he attended many Antarctic lem of a leaking roof was never over Club meetings in later years. His story come, and the stove made out of an oil- of the expedition was published in 1939, drum gave constant trouble. and the Bagshawe Glacier on the Danco Coast is named after him. Cope's organising powers were mini mal. The expedition's stores and equip From 1925 to 1947 Bagshawe was a ment were deficient in quality and quan director of Bagshawe and Co. Ltd., tity. Bagshawe and Lester had only one Dunstable. He was honorary curator, and fork between them. It was part of a later honorary director of the Luton present which Bagshawe had received Museum from 1928 to 1947. During the before he left England. But there was an Second World War he served with the excellent supply of crcmc-dc-menthe Royal Air Force Volunteer Reserve, and sweets. They were a welcome change in Combined Operations. He was High from the monotonous diet of penguin Sheriff of Bedfordshire in 1949. ANTARCTIC Veteran dog driver sledges on

After more than 45 years Norman D. his companions made some remarkable Vaughan, one of the veterans of Rear- trips to support the flight to the South Admiral Richard E. Byrd's first expedi Pole, and the scientific work of the tion to the Antarctic in 1928-30, still expedition. Storms and low tempera retains his enthusiasm for dog sledge tures made these trips hazardous for driving. This year he competed for the both dogs and men. Vaughan and a third time in the gruelling Alaskan companion made several short trips on 1049-mile dog sledge 'ace from the Ross Ice Shelf from Little America, Anchorage to Nome. At 71 he was the one in July when the temperature was oldest man in the race. close to minus 70deg Fahrenheit, and the cold froze the dogs' noses and paws. Forty-seven years ago Vaughan was in charge of the dogs of Byrd's Geologi Before the Geological Party began its cal Party, which sledged 1525 miles historical journey, Vaughan took part from Little America to the Queen Maud in some record-breaking trips. On one Range and back. This party, led by Dr a party sledged 99 miles in three days. Laurence M. Gould, who was Byrd's It also established a record for an all second-in-command, made one of the night march in Antarctica—63 miles longest and most important sledge trips in temperatures dropping to minus 40deg in the interests of pure science. F. Amundsen held the previous record Vaughan was one of several young of 62 miles. Americans who went south with no pre The Geological Party went south to vious Antarctic sledging experience, but make glaciological and geological developed extraordinary skill in dog studies in the Queen Maud Range. It handling. He was one of the three also provided weather reports for Byrd's Harvard students whom Byrd christened flight to the Pole, and had a relief role the Three Musketeers. The others were if the flight failed. ;. Crockett and Edward E. Goodale. During its stay in the Queen Maud These three gave up their university Range the party ascended the west side studies and spent a winter in the hills of the Axel Heiberg Glacier, and found of New Hampshire learning to be dog lichens at 6500ft on Mt. Nansen. It also drivers. Their mentor was Arthur T. found on Mt. Betty a cairn left by Walden. a veteran sledge driver in the Amundsen on his way back from the Alaskan gold rush days. Then the tour Pole 17 years earlier. men went south to New Zealand with the expedition's 94 dogs in the Nor On the return journey Vaughan's skill wegian whaling factory ship, Sir James as a dog handler helped to bring the Clark Ross. party back safely to Little America. The party was running short of dog food, In Dunedin, Vaughan was one of a and was held up by crevasses and fog. team which worked for nearly two When the six men returned after 77 weeks to provide a new diet for the days in the field 21 dogs remained of dogs which developed signs of dis the 47 with which they started. temper while in quarantine. The team made 25 tons of pemmican biscuit to After his return from the Antarctic a new formula which restored the dogs Vaughan had his own advertising to health. Only four died. business. He gave this up temporarily Mechanical transport, except for air to organise the supply of dogs for craft, played only a minor part in the Byrd's second expedition in 1933-35, but first Byrd expedition, and Vaughan and could not go south again. JUNE, 1976

Tn 1954 Vaughan turned his atten boots were frozen solid when he was tion to dog sledge driving in Alaska. caughl in the overflow while crossing He was the first outside entrant in the a river. North American Dog Sled Derby, which is run over short distances out of This year Vaughan started in the Anchorage. Later he was manager of a race, but was missing for ■.i.-veral days freight camp on the Alaskan oil pipe when he did not report at one of the line project. check points 350 miles from Anchorage. His first entry in the Anchorage- After an air search he was located safe Nome race was in 1974 when he was a and sound at a lodge on ihe route. maintenance man at the University of He had lost four of his dogs, and could Alaska. He was 70 and was given the not continue. Last reports were 'hat he race number of his age. He entered ihe had gone to Boston to rest for a while. race again last year, but had to with No doubt he will be back in the race draw because of severe frostbite. His next year. Captain Kessler served north and south with Byrd expeditions One of the small band of veterans who active duty as director of the Selec served with Rear-Admiral Richard E. tive Service in Virginia. He retired in Byrd in the Arctic and Antarctic died 1970 and in 1971 retired from the Navy in Richmond, Virginia, on January 3 after 30 years' service. this year. Captain Charles L. Kessler. An active member of the Antarctican who was 72, was a member of the United Society, Washington, Captain Kessler States Marine Corps when he served as lectured widely on Antarctica. He was a volunteer with the expedition to Spitz- also a member of the Explorers Club bcrgen from where Byrd, with Floyd and the Adventurers Club, of New York. Bennett as pilot, flew to the South Pole on May 9, 1925. After service in China, Kessler Peak (83deg 37min S., 167dcg he went to the Antarctic as a civilian 50min E.) was named after Captain Kess volunteer with Byrd's first expedition of ler in 1966. The peak, which is 65m 1928-30. high, overlooks the Lennox-King Glac ier in the Queen Alexandra Range. The Captain Kessler was a member of the crew of the Eleanor Boiling, one of the Lennex-King Glacier flows into the head of the Ross Ice Shelf. expedition's two ships, and known to those who sailed in her as the "Ever more Rolling." He made four trips be tween Dunedin, New Zealand, and the Scott Base has a sledge dog popula Bay of Whales, and assisted in the tion of 23. Last winter several dogs construction of Little America I. In suffered frostbite as a result of wind 1960 and 1962 he returned briefly to the chill in the abnormally low tempera- Antarctic as an observer for the United lures. This winter they have the protec States Navy. tion of kennels built for them by Mike During the Second World War Captain Wing, the dog handler. Three pups, Kessler served as a naval recruiting Karen, Muff, and Betty, born early officer in Virginia. After the war he last season, have grown into strong entered the United States Naval Reserve dogs, and took their places on the trace with the rank of commander. From 1942 in April when the men exercised them to 1960 he was state adjutant of the selves and the dogs on outings despite American Legion. In 1960 he returned to the cold. "ANTARCTIC" is published quarterly in March, June, September, and December. It is the only periodical in the world which gives regular up-to-date news of the Antarctic activities of all the nations at work in the far South. It has a world-wide circulation. Yearly subscription NZ$4.50. Overseas NZS5.50, includes postage (air mail posage extra), single copies SI.00. Details of back issues available may be obtained from the Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc.), P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch, New Zealand. Back issues more than five years old arc $1.50. Discount of 10 per cent for 20 or more copies. Overseas subscribers are asked to ensure that their remittances are converted to New Zealand currency.

The New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc.)

The New Zealand Antarctic Society was formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders and overseas friends, many of whom have seen Antarctica for themselves, and all of whom are vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic exploration, development, or research. The society has taken an active part in restoring and maintaining the historic huts in the Ross Dependancy, and has been involved in the establishment of a national Antarctic centre at the Canterbury Museum, Christchurch. There are two branches of the society and functions are arranged throughout the year. You are invited to become a member, South Island residents should write to the Canterbury secretary, North Islanders should write to the Wellington secretary, and overseas residents to the secretary of the New Zealand Society. For address see below. The yearly membership fee is NZ$3.00 (or equivalent local currency). Membership fee, overseas and local, including "Antarctic", NZ$6.50.

New Zealand Secretary Miss J. Kerr, P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch.

Branch Secreties Canterbury: Mrs J. Kerr, P.O. Box 404, Christchurch. Wellington: Mr G. D. Sylvester, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington.