PEAK AREA Bllakelley Reservoiir ffrom Wessenden Moor.. Photo::Peter JJudd.. NEWSLETTER
September 2019 [email protected]
Rocking Chair represents a broad spectrum of outdoor Rob Greenwood (and, more recently, indoor) enthusiasts, spanning climbing, hill walking and Well, summer has mountaineering; however, appealing to each come and gone (if it of these user groups and servicing their was ever here in the first place) needs is a challenge indeed. and autumn is very much upon us. As such, get your thinking caps on and Our next meeting, which takes place on come and join the discussion and debate. 11 September, will focus on the BMC’s See you there. future.After a lot of work from a great many members of staff – and volunteers – the draft of the organisation’s Strategic Plan for 2020–2024 will be out for consultation and feedback from the membership, so there’ll be plenty to discuss. In addition to this there’ll be further discussion on a matter close to my own heart: membership engagement. The BMC
Next meeting: Wednesday 11 September, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE Miillllstone Edge and the DerwentValllley.. Photo::John Coefiielld..
Access News In other news, there have been reports Henry Folkard of Forest Enterprise (what was the Forestry Commission) trying to charge groups for The main news item this issue is using Black Rocks – which is more popular that the NationalTrust has a major with groups for weaseling and similar problem in knowing how best to activities than for climbing. Rob Dyer has manage ash dieback which has pointed out that guidance issued by Defra ravaged Dovedale. is explicit that adventure activity should They are considering options, one of not be regarded as commercial activity for which is to close Dovedale between about which a charge on open access land is Ilam Rock (or perhaps Dove Holes) and appropriate. Lover’s Leap in October to facilitate On Kinder and Bleaklow the fences necessary felling of diseased trees. Drastic which were erected after widespread perhaps, but so is the problem which consultation – and controversy – some ten confronts them.They are anxious to gauge years ago will need to be renewed at some public reaction (including from BMC point if they are to remain.They have Members) to this option, or hear alternative certainly been successful in achieving what suggestions, before making any decisions. it was intended they should achieve; We will discuss this at the next area meeting excluding stray sheep thereby preventing and report back to the National Trust. them from devastating newly seeded areas. We should also perhaps consider the The question the National Trust is asking is: position in Chee Dale and Water-cum-Jolly, would it be premature to remove them which are owned, or part owned, not by now and risk jeopardising partly restored the National Trust but by Derbyshire landscapes? Wildlife Trust. What do you think?
2 Peak Area Newsletter September 2019 http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 3 The Great Riidge.. Photo::John Coefiielld..
4 Peak Area Newsletter Hill Walking News Peter Judd & Austin Knott
Come for a walk! Real3Peaks Litter Picks Join us for a Peak Area Hill Walk from There are two opportunities to join in with Marsden on Sunday 29 September. BMC a Real3Peaks-linked litter pick here in the Peak Area hill walking volunteers have Peak this autumn, on 12 and 13 October. devised a hill walk up on the northern tip The Real3Peaks Challenge began a few of the Peak District that also includes a bit years ago (initiated by outdoor instructor of WestYorkshire and even dips a toe into Rich Pyne) with the aim of deep-cleaning Lancashire too! the highest mountains that make up Britain’s It’s a 12.5-mile walk (with a shorter so-called National 3 Peaks Challenge with 10-mile option) and starts from Marsden (in clean-up activities each October. Real3Peaks WestYorkshire) before taking in Pule Hill, quickly blossomed into much more than just Redbrook Reservoir (which is within the Ben Nevis, Snowdon and Scafell Pike, with Peak District), Standedge, (crossing briefly other hills and mountains soon being added over into Lancashire for) White Hill and to the list of hills cleaned. More recently this back to Marsden. list has expanded to include a Peak District North West Area andYorkshire Area clean-up on Great Ridge. BMC members have also been invited so Given the BMC has strong links with there should be plenty of opportunity for Real3Peaks, and also is currently running its networking and good conversation. own Hills2Oceans clean-up challenge, we There is a lot to see along the way, thought it would be good to get Peak Area including the ‘Snow Stone’, a ‘Stanza Stones BMC folk involved this year, so we are Poetry Seat’, some fascinating geology and hoping to join in with the Real3Peaks Great (hopefully) some fine views too. Do come – Ridge clean-up on Saturday 12 October and it’ll be fun! in addition hold another event ourselves, Details can be found here: over on The Roaches estate, the following http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event. day.These are excellent opportunities to aspx?id=4125 help keep the uplands in the state we would We're grateful to BMC members Emma, all much prefer to find them, so do consider Kevin,Vikky and Amanda for volunteering to coming along. help us deliver this walk and so ensure it's If you are interested in joining in with not led solely by blokes! There’ll be more on The Roaches clean-up in particular then our the Peak Area Facebook page nearer please let Austin know (via the time. [email protected]) as he needs an indication of likely numbers. He will then send more details in due course.As this newsletter goes to press we’re still trying to finalise details of both activities, so keep an eye on the Area Facebook page for more news!
http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 5 Climbing News & Gossip Hadyn Jones also reports that Pete also made Dave Parry a ‘semi flash’ ascent of 32 at the Cornice. I can only assume this caveat pertains to the level One of the annoyances of writing this of prior knowledge/familiarity with some or Peak Area news roundup is how the all of the route, rather than an unfortunate newsletter deadlines fall during the wardrobe malfunction in a state of partial summer. Invariably it clashes with my tumescence. I’ll leave you to google that. holidays, this year being no exception. A hard limestone repeat, this time a I have hence decided, to avoid running boulder problem, which just missed the last late yet give the illusion of currency, newsletter back in June was Dave Mason’s that I am going to write as much of the ascent of Dandelion Mind at Badger Cove. At content in advance and just slot the Font 8b/+, this is actually easier on paper than details in right on the deadline.You its neighbour Bewilderness (Font 8b+) which would think that the quality of the Dave repeated some years ago. Still nails news report would suffer due to some though, and this is not a crag which is easy to of it being written template-style long get good conditions at, so good effort. before the actual event, but I can assure At the far end of the horizontal bouldering you this is perfectly legit in journalism axis is Haydn Jones’ recent addition to Moat circles. Once I’ve included some pretty Buttress. Against the Current starts at generic and non-specific padding which Drawbridge and finishes at the far right of the should fit most eventualities you won’t crag by topping out. This 60-metre-long notice a thing, I promise. pump-marathon is Font 8a+ or equivalent Anyway, on to the summer roundup. And to F8c as a route. Apparently breaks down what an eventful summer it has been, right? nicely into a number of individual sections Who could have predicted that the weather graded in the Font 7a to 7c+ range, so some would have turned out the way it did? I for sport for all to be had there, and the various one had certainly expected some elements combination links should keep the UKC of the prevailing conditions but others caught logbook demographic happy. me off guard, that’s for sure. One person who Speaking of which, I’m sure everyone is really took advantage of the aforementioned talking about the recent linkup at Griff’s meteorological goings on was Pete Dawson, Buttress in Blackwell Dale or the cave at the who made big news by repeating Hubble Tor, which presumably someone will have recently. There’s a video of his ascent online done. For those not in the know this probably and he makes it look dismayingly steady. starts up one problem, traverses in a Maybe we’re about to hit that morphic- particular direction then finishes up some resonance threshold where suddenly every other problem some distance from the start. strong youth does Hubble and the mystique Grade will be within half a grade of the is broken? Time will tell. Sadly, I don’t know existing and almost indistinguishable problem anything about Pete other than what a which starts or finishes up a slightly different perfunctory bit of googling tells me, which is version of one of the constituent problems. that he’s also done Evolution and Make It Funky Name will be a portmanteau of the pre- at the Tor within the last year, and recently existing problems or some terrible sheep- made a fast repeat of Sea OfTranquility in based reference. First ascent by one of the Wales (a country only 200 miles from Britain) usual offenders. Not a bad effort by the so safe to say he’s been going well of late. aforementioned climber considering the
6 Peak Area Newsletter September 2019 climatic phenomena we’ve been experiencing. Heason’s rarely done problem Cold Diggity. Regular mantelshelf contributor and Peak Video on Jon’s Instagram. Looks good, and a fair news column inch provider Ned Feehally is also bet for staying cool before the main grit season, no stranger to the limestone, and has in fact an cool weather arrives. entire new crag on the go, which I would love In a sentence I could probably have written to report except I don’t have the details. Ned in advance and safely include in every has promised it’ll be unveiled for the next newsletter as standard and it always be true, newsletter – well, he hasn’t actually promised Gary Gibson has done one or two new routes that, but did indicate it was a possibility, so I am lately. Bit of a dry spell for Gary actually this printing this in the hope that it forces his hand. year having only done 90-odd new routes in So with a bit of luck we’ll have a new crag for the Peak, although I should point out that’s 90 you in the November issue just in time for it to at the time he emailed me, so will probably be get wet for the winter. For the time being all more than that by the time you read this. Of the Ned collectors out there will have to settle particular note are around 35 new routes at for his recent offerings of a prow and a mantel, Bradwell Dale Parish Quarry, the rough both Font 6c ish, up on the top of Stanage by location of which I assume is evident from the the trig point above Hamper’s Hang. They’re by name. Expect mainly offerings in the low French that existing problem the name or grade of 6 grades with a few sterner tests. Gary has also which escapes me. Ned did send a photo in but added around 20 routes to Harpur Hill and is neglected to include a climber in it, rendering it in the process of re-equipping College Buttress of limited value as an action shot, so you will there.These and many more are detailed on have to make do with the rich image I have Gary’s website www.sportsclimbs.co.uk. If conjured up with words in this paragraph devotees of any of these crags Gary’s worked (which is now at an end). on feel compelled to throw a few bob into his I usually pencil in a fair-sized paragraph for bolting pot then there is a donation link on the Jon Fullwood’s latest deeds, and he’s not let me site too.Apparently Gary is closing in on 5,000 down, with a decent crop this time round: first new routes in total, likely next year sometime. is a new route onTwoTier at F7c+, a direct Which means, if you do the maths, that if you’re start toWaffle.This new addition is called Stroop aged 13 or under, Gary has in fact done more Dog and confirmed as good quality by a few new routes than you’ve had hot dinners. repeats. Bouldering start into a technical bulge Finally, all that remains is to report as usual a into the roof onWaffle. Jon has also done a very quality addition from
http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 7 Peak Area Meetings: 2019 All meetings are held at The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE.
11 September, 7.30 p.m. 27 November, 7.30 p.m.
Forthcoming Events BMC Peak Area Contacts http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak
Peak Area Hill Walk Peak Area Chair: Rob Greenwood. 29 September, Marsden [email protected] Join the Peak Area hill walking team for a 12.5-mile walk from Marsden.All the details Secretary: Becky Hammond. on page 5. [email protected]
Real3Peaks Litter Picks Peak Area Reps (your voice on the BMC 12 & 13 October, Great Ridge National Council): andThe Roaches David Brown and Alison Cairns. Help clean up a couple of the Peak's best- http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak known landmarks with the team from Real3Peaks and the Peak Area hill walking Access Reps Co-ordinators: team. More info on page 5. Henry Folkard and Louise Hawson. [email protected] Stanage Forum Open Meeting [email protected] 26 October, Hathersage Methodist Church Hall Peak Area Hill Walking Reps: Come and find out what's been happening Peter Judd and Austin Knott. on the Stanage North Lees estate and have [email protected] your say on its future. Full details on page 3. [email protected]
Peak Area Newsletter Editorial: Dave Parry and John Coefield. [email protected]
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. Find out more: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-governance