05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 4

1 The Best of

In this chapter, you’ll find our carefully compiled lists of the best that Germany has to offer, from castles and cathedrals to spas, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’ll want to see and do.

1 The Best Travel • Exploring the New Berlin: Anyone • Cruising the Elbe, the , and who lived through the fear of the the Rhine: This trio of rivers, along Cold War can’t help but shudder at with their tributaries, dominated the memory of the Berlin Wall. Since German commerce for hundreds of reunification, civic planners, with years. Today, an armada of tugboats, almost manic enthusiasm, have barges, and cruise ships still plies the demolished large sections of what muddy waters beside riverbanks lined once stood as a scar across the face of with the historic majesty (and some- a defeated nation. The architectural times the industrial might) of central changes and urban developments Europe. Cruises begin and end at that constantly update the cityscape large cities of historic interest and last around Berlin’s Friedrichstrasse and anywhere from 6 hours to 7 days. See Potsdamer Platz can be confusing. “A Cruise on the Elbe” in chapter 6, But regardless of which renewal pro- “Cruising the Danube” in chapter 7, gram is churning up rubble at the and “Cruising the Mythically Rich time of your visit, a pilgrimage Rivers of Germany” in chapter 15. through what used to be the most • Boating on the Königssee: A bitterly contested urban turf in romantic poet would praise this lake, Europe can’t help but provoke power- near Berchtesgaden in , for ful emotions. See chapter 5. the forest-covered mountains that • Spending a Midsummer’s Night in surround its cold, deep, dark waters. a Biergarten: When the temperature The baroque chapels and fairy-tale rises, head for the unpretentious hamlets on its shores supplement its cheer of the nearest biergarten (every- natural grandeur. The boat you ride body in GermanyCOPYRIGHTED seems to have a will be MATERIAL powered by very quiet electric favorite, so we’re not even going to motors, so you can hear the extraor- try to name the “best”). These water- dinary echoes that bounce off the ing holes, which often feature trel- rock faces. See p. 343. lises, climbing vines, Chinese • Hiking in the Bavarian Alps: In lanterns, and arbors, offer low-cost summer, alpine hiking is a major fun on soft summer nights. You can attraction in Germany. Hikers can order platters of hearty food with observe a variety of wildlife, often your beer or bring your own picnic. including endangered species. Two of 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 5

THE BEST TRAVEL 5 the best areas are the 1,240m (4,070- bounty to the legendary vineyards of ft.) Eckbauer peak, on the southern the Rhine and Mosel valleys, but the fringe of Partenkirchen, and the autumn harvest is truly the time to Berchtesgaden National Park, bor- visit. Between late August and mid- dering the Austrian province of October, the banks of the rivers turn Salzburg. See chapter 10. gold and russet, and armies of work- • Ascending the Zugspitze: If the gen- ers gather buckets of grapes from tle inclines of the Harz Mountains or rows of carefully pruned vines. Most the Thuringian forests aren’t dramatic of the medieval villages and historic enough for you, ride the cable car castles scattered between Koblenz from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the and Trier are associated with estates top of Germany’s tallest mountain, where you can sample the wines. See 2,960m (9,700 ft.) above sea level. chapters 15 and 16. The view from the top is suitably • Touring the Fairy-Tale Road panoramic, and you’ll find an appeal- (Märchenstrasse): This is one of the ing aura of German-ness that comes newer marketing ideas of the German from the many climbers and trekkers tourist authorities, but considering its who fan out across the hiking trails. appeal, you’ll wonder why they didn’t See p. 361. think of it earlier. From the town of • Experiencing a German Spa: In Ger- Hanau (a 30-min. drive northeast of many, the question isn’t whether to Frankfurt), the route zigzags north- visit a spa, but rather which spa to ward along the Weser River for about visit. Each resort has its own virtues 600km (370 miles), through some of and historical associations and can Germany’s most evocative folkloric supply a list of the health benefits asso- architecture, ending in Bremen. ciated with its awful-tasting waters. Scores of well-marked detours pepper Regardless of your choice, you’ll the way. Required reading for the trip emerge from your treatment with a is a collection of the fairy tales of the more relaxed attitude and a greater Brothers Grimm and the Nibelungen appreciation of German efficiency and legends. Don’t overlook the psycho- sensuality. The most famous spas are logical implications of Goldilocks, in Baden-Baden. See p. 411. the Big Bad Wolf, and the Pied Piper • Motoring along the : The of Hamelin. See p. 71. Neckar River meanders through • Lounging on the Island of Sylt: about 80km (50 miles) of some of Don’t expect a lush or verdant Germany’s most famous vineyards. island—the climate is temperamental, But the real appeal of the winding the setting is savage, the winds blow road along the water is the medieval cold from the north even in summer, castles scattered along the way. High- and the grasses that manage to survive lights en route include , in the sandy dunes are as weathered Neckarsteinach, , Eber- and sturdy as the soldiers in a Prussian bach, Zwingenberg, and Burg Horn- regiment. Why is it wonderful? Here, berg. Don’t forget to stop en route for the no-nonsense residents of north samplings of the local wines. See Germany can preen, flutter, and show chapter 13. off to each other, far from the stric- • Spending Harvest Time in the tures of their workplaces and the German Vineyards: Springtime in hardworking grind of their everyday Germany brings the promise of lives. See p. 638. 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF GERMANY

2 The Best Museums Financial prosperity, artistic flair, and it features many hands-on and histor- academic curiosity have helped the Ger- ical exhibits. See p. 313. mans develop some of the finest muse- • Alte Pinakothek, Munich: This mas- ums anywhere. sive and symmetrical building is one • Gemäldegalerie, Berlin: This is one of the most visible in Munich, with a of Europe’s leading art museums, with wraparound garden where urbanites a celebrated collection of works from like to walk during lunch hour. Inside the 13th to the 18th centuries. The is a staggering assortment of impor- cavalcade of major European masters tant paintings from every era, scat- ranges from Botticelli and Brueghel to tered over two sprawling floors of Vermeer and Velázquez. Divided dur- dignified splendor. See p. 312. ing the Cold War, the collection has • Dachau Concentration Camp been reunited in one home since Memorial Site, Dachau, near 1998. The lighting and displays are Munich: Heinrich Himmler first better than ever. See p. 121. organized Dachau as a concentration • Pergamon Museum, Berlin: Built in camp for enemies of the Reich in 1930 on an island in the Spree, this 1933. An escaped inmate, Joseph museum contains entirely recon- Rovan, described it as “implacable, structed temples from ancient Assyria, perverted, an organization that was Greece, Rome, and Sumer. Don’t miss totally murderous, a marvelous the sprawling exhibitions devoted to machine for the debasement and the ancient art of the Islamic world dehumanizing of man.” Today, it’s and the Far East. See p. 118. one of the most poignant museums • Zwinger, Dresden: A vast rectangular in the world. See p. 334. esplanade flanked with pavilions, • Lenbachhaus, Munich: Housed in heroic statues, formal gardens, and the former villa of portrait painter galleries, this museum was designed Franz von Lenbach, this museum has for Augustus the Strong (elector a stunning and internationally of and king of Poland), by renowned collection of modern art, his favorite architect, Pöppelmann including the Blaue Reiter (Blue (1662–1736). The destruction of the Rider) period, best represented by Zwinger (in the final days of World Kandinsky. It also has a rich collec- War II), one of Dresden’s most beau- tion of Gothic artwork. See p. 313. tiful buildings, was a great loss, • Gutenberg Museum, : This though its postwar reconstruction museum is one of the most compre- was a triumph for the East German hensive tributes to printing and pub- government. Among the treasures lishing anywhere in the world. The amassed inside are paintings, 18th- bulky presses, on which Johannes century Dresden porcelain, and an Gutenberg used movable type (42 ornamental collection of antique lines per page), and two of the earli- weapons. See p. 199. est Bibles ever printed are the pri- • Deutsches Museum, Munich: Since mary displays here. There’s also a 1925, this museum has been one of historical rundown on the science the most important showcases of sci- and technologies that have domi- ence and technology in the world. nated the printing industry ever Occupying an island in the Isar River, since. See p. 500. 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 7

THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES 7 • Museum Ludwig, Cologne: This is Europe, and the galleries are a virtual the home of one of the world’s largest encyclopedia of art, from Flemish old collections of the works of Pablo masters to the French Impressionists. Picasso, equaled only by the Picasso See p. 529. museums of Barcelona and Paris. The • Kunsthalle, Hamburg: The leading museum’s collection was beefed up art museum in northern Germany, when Irene Ludwig, widow of the the Kunsthalle is one of the most late German art patron Peter Ludwig, important in Europe, with some donated 774 works of Picasso’s to the 3,000 paintings in its treasure trove, museum. See p. 528. along with some 400 . • Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Founda- Some of its rare treasures date from tion Corboud, Cologne: The oldest the 14th century, including works by museum in Cologne presents one of Bertram, the leading German master Germany’s grandest collections of art, of the time. One section of the gallery covering the 14th to the 19th cen- also displays modern works, including turies. The collection of Gothic pieces by such artists as Andy Warhol, works alone is one of the finest in Joseph Beuys, and Picasso. See p. 613.

3 The Best Castles & Palaces During the , Germany was Landgraves of Thuringia, a center of divided into many intensely competitive patronage for the Minnesinger (trou- feudal states and principalities. This badours) of Germany, and a place of unstable atmosphere encouraged the con- refuge for Martin Luther, who com- struction of fortified castles. As hostilities pleted his translation of the Bible died down, architects began to design for within its massive walls. Wagner used comfort, style, and prestige, adding large it as inspiration for the setting of windows, gilded stucco and plaster, fres- Tannhäuser, and Johann Sebastian coes, and formal gardens. As a result, Bach and Goethe both visited. Today, Germany is full of all kinds and styles of from its position on a rocky hilltop, Burg (castles) and Schloss (palaces). it’s a regional museum. See p. 175. • Sans Souci Palace, Potsdam: Freder- • Residenz, Würzburg: Built between ick the Great’s retreat, where he came 1720 and 1744 as the official resi- to read, listen to music, and generally dence of the powerful bishops of renew his allegiance to the principles Würzburg, this is one of the most of the Enlightenment, is Germany’s massive baroque palaces in Germany. most successful blend of landscape It combines a Hofkirche (chapel) with and architecture. The more than 120 gardens, a gallery of paintings, fres- hectares (296 acres) of intricately land- coes by Tiepolo, and enough decora- scaped gardens have enough pavilions, tion to satisfy the most demanding fountains, orangeries, and heroic stat- taste for ornamentation. Also within ues to keep a visitor intrigued for days. its showrooms are a worthy collection The palace itself is an architectural of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts highlight, approached by a terraced and valuable paintings from the 14th staircase of sublime beauty. See p. 160. to the 19th centuries. See p. 247. • Schloss Wartburg, Eisenach: Built • Neuschwanstein, near Füssen: between the 11th and 16th centuries, When the creators of California’s Dis- this was the headquarters of the neyland needed an inspiration for 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF GERMANY their fairy-tale castle, this is the and Mediterranean cascades appear model they picked. Neuschwanstein against alpine vistas in combinations is the most lavishly romantic (and that are as startling as they are charm- impractical) castle in the German- ing. See p. 365. speaking world. A 19th-century the- • Altes Schloss, Meersburg: Legend atrical set designer drew it up in a has it that this palace’s cornerstone neofeudal style. The man who was laid in 628 by Dagobert, king of ordered its construction was (who the Franks. The palace remained a else?) “Mad” King Ludwig II of Catholic stronghold even during the Bavaria. See p. 277. Protestant , housing • Hohenschwangau Castle, near bishops who appreciated its 3m-thick Füssen: It was completed in 1836 and (10-ft.) walls as a bulwark against the built on the ruins of a 12th-century rising tempest around them. In the fortress. Its patron was the youthful early 1800s, when its owners threat- prince regent, Maximilian II of ened to tear the palace down, a Ger- Bavaria, who used it to indulge his man Romantic, Baron Joseph von taste for “troubadour romanticism” Lassberg, bought it and transformed and the life of the English country it into a refuge for writers, poets, and manor. See p. 277. painters. Although it remains mostly • Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich: It a private residence, you can visit was originally conceived and con- many parts of the palace. See p. 378. structed between 1664 and 1674 as • Heidelberg Castle, Heidelberg: This an Italian-inspired summer home for castle originated as a Gothic-Renais- the Bavarian monarchs. Subsequent sance masterpiece in the 1500s and Bavarian kings added on to its struc- was massively expanded as rival rulers ture until around 1780, by which competed for control of the time the building and its lavish park Rhineland. After the French sacked bore a close resemblance to the and burned the town and the castle in French palace at Versailles. A high- 1689, it never regained its original light of the interior is the green, gold, glory. Today, the ruins brood in dig- and white banqueting hall, with fres- nified severity from a position on a coes and ornate stucco that are rocky hilltop high above the student among the most memorable in revelry and taverns of the folkloric Bavaria. See p. 316. city below. See p. 427. • Schloss Linderhof, near Oberam- • Burg Eltz, Moselkern, near Cochem: mergau: This palace was built in the Its multiple turrets and towers, which 1870s as a teenage indulgence by rise amid a thick forest near the Ludwig II. Its architects created a Mosel River, evoke the chivalry and whimsically eclectic fantasy, inspired poetry of the Middle Ages. This is by Italian baroque architecture. In the one of the best-preserved medieval surrounding park, Moorish pavilions castles in Germany. See p. 546.

4 The Best Cathedrals • Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral), Germany. This massive church, from Speyer: Partly because of their age, 1030, has four bell towers, a corner- Romanesque churches are the most stone laid by one of Germany’s earli- impressive symbols of early medieval est kings, Konrad II, and an 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 9

THE MOST CHARMING SMALL VILLAGES 9 undeniable sense of the (anonymous) age fueled its completion. In 1880, it architect’s aesthetic links with the tra- was inaugurated with appropriate ditions of ancient Rome. See p. 491. pomp and circumstance in the pres- • Dom St. Peter, Worms: This church is ence of the German kaiser. Today, its a grand example of High Romanesque vast russet-colored bulk towers, above style, its oldest section dating from Cologne, are instantly recognizable 1132. The Diet of Worms, held here from miles away. See p. 527. in 1521, condemned the beliefs of the • Dom (Cathedral), Aachen: Its size young Martin Luther and banished and the stonework dating from 1414 him to the far boundaries of the Holy are deeply impressive, but even more Roman Empire. See p. 494. so is the cathedral’s association with • Cologne Cathedral, Cologne: Based the earliest of German emperors, on French Gothic models in Paris and Charlemagne. He was crowned in an Amiens, this cathedral was envisioned older building on this site in A.D. as one of the largest religious build- 800. The cathedral’s treasury contains ings in Christendom. It required 600 gem-encrusted Christian artifacts years to finish—work stopped for from the 10th century, with heft and about 300 years (1560–1842), until barbaric glitter that evoke pre-Christ- the neo-Gothic fervor of the romantic ian Germania. See p. 516.

5 The Most Charming Small Villages • Quedlinburg: Spared in part from may be your only chance in life to see the ravages of World War II, this a still-intact medieval walled city. town in the Harz mountains still Rothenburg exists in a time capsule, evokes the Middle Ages with its though 40% of the town was 1,600 half-timbered buildings, more destroyed during World War II. Luck- than any other town in the country. ily, locals quickly rebuilt their Altstadt Named a UNESCO World Heritage in its former style to reclaim their glo- Site, Quedlinburg is a gem of yester- rious architectural past. See p. 256. day and was an imperial residence for • If you have time for a second stop 2 centuries. Wander the cobblestone along the Romantic Road, try streets of the Altstadt (old town) for a Dinkelsbühl. Though not as grand journey back in time. See p. 188. as the more celebrated Rothenburg, it • Meissen: Some 25km (16 miles) has far fewer tourists and therefore north of Dresden, this is a romantic retains more old-time charm. See little town built along the banks of “Dinkelsbühl” (p. 262). the River Elbe. It’s celebrated for its • Mittenwald: This town has long porcelain, which carries a trademark been celebrated as the most beautiful of two crossed blue swords and is val- in the Bavarian Alps. Its magnifi- ued by collectors the world over. cently decorated houses have painted Even without its porcelain factory, facades and ornately carved gables. In the town merits a visit for its quiet the mid–17th century, it was known charm, its old buildings, and its 15th- as “The Village of a Thousand Vio- century castle. See p. 205. lins” because of the stringed instru- • Rothenburg: If you have time for ments made here. See p. 353. only one stop along the Romantic • Lindau: Dating from the 9th cen- Road, make it Rothenburg ob der tury, this former free imperial town of Tauber (on the Tauber River), which the Holy Roman Empire is like a 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF GERMANY fantasy of what a charming Bavarian lined with wine taverns and cozy lakeside village should look like, even restaurants. See p. 502. if only in the movies. But this garden • Cochem: If you’re seeking an idyllic “city,” under landmark protection, is medieval riverside town during your for real. Lindau is enveloped by “grape tour” of the Mosel River val- aquamarine waters, and one part of it ley, make it Cochem, famous for its is known as the Gartenstadt because towering castle, dating from 1027. of its luxuriant flowers and shrubs. On the left bank of the Mosel, See p. 368. Cochem lies in a picture-postcard set- • Rüdesheim: The Rhine Valley’s most ting of vineyards. Little inns serving a popular wine town is set along the regional cuisine along with plenty of edge of the mighty river. Rüdesheim Mosel wine make Cochem a highly is known for its half-timbered build- desirable overnight stop and a nice ings and its Drosselgasse, or “Thrush alternative to the more commercial Lane,” a narrow cobblestone lane centers found along the nearby stretching for 180m (600 ft.) and Rhine. See p. 544.

6 The Best Driving Tours The appeal of the open road is a promi- • Upper Black Forest: Fairy tales nent part of German culture. Some of the always seem more believable when best drives include: you’re in the Black Forest, and the • The Romantic Road: This well-trav- twisting secondary roads that connect eled route, which stretches between Freiburg with Lake Titisee pass the Main River and the beginning of through lots of charming scenery the Bavarian Alps, is dotted with and architecture. See the box, lovely medieval towns. See chapter 8. “An Excursion to the Upper Black • Alpine Road: Scenic majesty and Forest,” on p. 395. architectural charm combine for an • Mosel Valley: The road along this unforgettable experience on this Rhine tributary passes by some of the 480km (300-mile) road through the country’s most famous vineyards. At foothills of the Bavarian Alps. See least a half-dozen of the cities en “Exploring the Region by Car” in route are worth visiting as well. See chapter 10. chapter 16.

7 The Best Walks • The Royal Castle Walk: For one • Partnachklamm: One of the most of the grandest panoramas in all of dramatic walks in all of the Bavarian the Alps (in any country), hike up Alps starts from the great winter sports to the Marienbrücke, the bridge resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A that spans the Pöllat Gorge behind signposted trail leads to the dramatic Neuschwanstein Castle. From there, Partnachklamm Gorge. Carved from if you’re up to it, you can continue solid rock, the route passes two uphill for about an hour for an amaz- panoramic bottlenecks amid the thun- ing view of “Mad” King Ludwig’s der of falling water and clouds of fantasy castle. See “Neuschwanstein spray. See “Hiking in the Bavarian & Hohenschwangau” in chapter 8. Alps” in chapter 10. 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 11

THE BEST SPAS 11 • Mainau Island: A walk across the • Cochem: Reichsburg Castle, which footbridge to Mainau, in Lake Con- towers over the little town of stance, is like a visit to a tropical Cochem, can be reached on foot in country. Mainau is filled with exotic about 15 minutes from the town’s plants collected by the Baden princes Marktplatz, or market square. and members of the Royal House of Although hardly an alpine climb, this . Tropical brushwood and walk is one of the most rewarding other botanical wonders still thrive in you’ll find in Germany, with panora- this mild climate. You’ll hardly believe mas in all directions. See p. 544. you’re in Germany. See p. 381.

8 The Best Biking • Munich by Bike: You see so many the source of the Neckar, beginning locals riding bikes that you might in Villingen-Schwenningen and think Munich is the biking capital of going all the way to the confluence of Germany. If you’d like to join the the Rhine at Mannheim. Instead of fun, pick up a copy of the pamphlet going the entire way, many visitors Rad-Touren für unsere Gäste (Bike- prefer to pick up a bicycle in Heidel- Riding for Our Guests) at the tourist berg and cycle along the riverbanks office. It outlines itineraries for tour- until they find a good spot for a pic- ing Munich by bike. See p. 285. nic. See “Exploring on Two Wheels” • Lake Constance: Rent a bike at the in chapter 13. train station in the former imperial • Lüneburg Heath: This wild heath in town of Lindau and set out in any northern Germany is one of the direction to enjoy the views of this country’s major natural attractions. beautiful lake. The Lindau tourist (Some of Germany’s greatest poets office will provide a map and sugges- have waxed rhapsodic about this tions for the best routes to follow. See shrub-covered land.) Rent a bike and p. 368. pick up a map at the Lüneburg • The Neckar Valley Cycle Path: This tourist office and set out on your signposted path allows you to follow adventure. See p. 572.

9 The Best Spas • Bad Reichenhall: Many spa lovers Baden-Baden is also the site of the head for this remote corner of Bavaria country’s most celebrated casino. The to “take the waters.” Europe’s largest spa’s been going strong since the saline source was first tapped in pre- leisure class of the 19th century dis- Christian times and the place has a covered its healing waters, although definite 19th-century aura. And the Roman legions of Emperor Cara- though some of the hotels in the calla had discovered the springs long town are better than others, all have before that. As at Bad Reichenhall, all equal access to the spa and lie about a hotels, no matter the price range, 5-minute walk away. See “Bad have equal access to the spa. See Reichenhall” in chapter 10. “Baden-Baden” in chapter 12. • Baden-Baden: There’s no better spa • Wiesbaden: One of Germany’s old- in all of Germany, and certainly est cities, Wiesbaden attracted none more fashionable or famous. Roman legions to its hot springs, and 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF GERMANY lures today’s fashionable traveler as Homburg Palace was once the sum- well. It’s not as chic as Baden-Baden, mer residence of Prussian kings. See but Wiesbaden has one of Germany’s “Side Trips from Frankfurt” in chap- most elegant casinos and concert ter 14. halls, along with two gourmet restau- • Bad Nauheim: What do William rants. In summer, the beer garden at Randolph Hearst and Elvis Presley the Kurhaus is one of the liveliest have in common? Both stayed at Bad along the Rhine. See “Side Trips from Nauheim—the newspaper czar by Frankfurt” in chapter 14. choice and Elvis on orders from the • Bad Homburg: Bad Homburg lies at U.S. Army. The warm carbonic-acid the foot of the Taunus Hills in a set- springs are used in the treatment of ting of medieval castles and luxuriant heart and circulatory ailments and forests. There are more than 31 foun- rheumatic diseases. See “Side Trips tains in the town’s Kurpark. The Bad from Frankfurt” in chapter 14.

10 The Best Luxury Hotels German efficiency and cleanliness are leg- it’s a cost-conscious treasure chest of endary, so it’s not surprising that you can German history. See p. 166. choose from a great number of well-man- • Eisenhut (Iron Helmut), Rothen- aged hotels. burg ob der Tauber (& 09861/7050; • Grand Hotel Esplanade, Berlin www.eisenhut.com): This hotel’s (& 030/254780; www.esplanade.de): 16th-century walls and valuable col- This strikingly contemporary hotel lection of antiques enhance the near several foreign embassies is one appeal of the most authentic Renais- of the most prestigious and best in the sance town in Germany. See p. 257. German capital. With its collection of • Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten modern art, its spacious, cheerfully München, Munich (& 800/ decorated rooms, and its first-class 426-3135 in the U.S. or 089/21250; service, it is a prime address for the www.kempinski-vierjahreszeiten.de): luxury-minded. See p. 87. Munich’s most prestigious choice • The Regent, Berlin (& 888/ offers elegance and luxury. The 201-1806 in the U.S. or 030/20338; wealthy and titled have checked in www.regenthotels.com): One of Ger- here for more than a century, enjoy- many’s great luxury hotels, The Regent ing the ambience, the antiques, the is all about opulence, superb service, style, and the grace. See p. 290. and comfort. It’s discreet, tasteful, reli- • Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montge- able, and a brilliant addition to the ros- las, Munich (& 089/21200; ter of luxury leaders in Germany’s www.bayerischerhof.de): This deluxe capital. See p. 99. hotel and 17th-century Bavarian • Hotel Elephant, Weimar (& 03643/ palace together form Munich’s 8020; www.starwoodhotels.com): answer to New York’s Waldorf-Asto- This is one of Germany’s most inter- ria. This is the only hotel in Munich esting hotels because of its age (over to provide serious competition for 300 years), its name, its 50-year sur- the Kempinski Hotel. See p. 287. vival in Germany’s eastern zone, and • Der Kleine Prinz, Baden-Baden its associations with such luminaries (& 07221/346600; www.derkleine as Schiller, Liszt, and Goethe. Today, prinz.de): This hotel’s director once 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 13

THE BEST SMALL INNS & HOTELS 13

helped manage the New York Hilton • Fürstenhof Celle, Celle (& 05141/ and the Waldorf-Astoria. Today, he 2010; www.fuerstenhof.de): This and his wife run a century-old pair of 17th-century manor, enlarged with neo-baroque houses in the heart of half-timbered wings, stands out even Germany’s most elegant resort, Baden- in a town legendary for its medieval Baden. Der Kleine Prinz is among the and buildings. There’s a most romantic of Germany’s many cozy bar in the medieval cellar and romantic hotels. See p. 412. one of the best dining rooms in • Krone Assmannshausen, Rüdesheim- Lower Saxony. See p. 575. Assmannshausen (& 06722/4030; • Raffles Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg www.hotel-krone.com): Sprawling (& 800/223-6800 in the U.S. and along the banks of the Rhine in an Canada, or 040/34943151; www. oversize, grangelike, gingerbread-laden hvj.de): Its dignified interior is as opu- fantasy, this hotel has witnessed the lent as its 19th-century facade. This arrival of many important Germans hotel’s appeal is correctly aristocratic, (including Goethe) in its 400 years. It but it has a touch of the saltwater zesti- also contains one of the best traditional ness that makes Hamburg a great city. restaurants in town. See p. 504. See p. 603.

11 The Best Small Inns & Hotels • Art’otel, Berlin (& 030/884470; • Parkhotel Atlantic Schlosshotel, www.artotels.com): This hotel in the Heidelberg (& 06221/60420; www. heart of Berlin is chic, discreet, and parkhotel-atlantic.de): This 24-room unique. The swirling action of the inn is on the wooded outskirts of Ku’damm lies right outside the door, Heidelberg, near the famous castle. but inside, the decor is soothing and Every room is comfortable and con- serene, the work of some of the con- venient, and in the afternoon you can tinent’s top designers. See p. 94. go for long walks along the woodland • Altstadt-Hotel, Passau (& 0851/ trails surrounding the property. See 3370; www.altstadt-hotel.de): This p. 424. inexpensive hotel stands at the conver- • Antik-Hotel Bristol, Cologne gence of three rivers—the Danube, (& 0221/120195; www.antik-hotel- the Ilz, and the Inn. But the hotel bristol.de): In the heart of this cathe- offers more than river views—it’s com- dral city along the Rhine, this unique fortably and traditionally furnished, hotel is filled with antiques, both and its regional cuisine and convivial country-rustic and town house-ele- pub attract the locals. See p. 235. gant, making the atmosphere both • Gästehaus Englischer Garten, authentic and inviting. See p. 522. Munich (& 089/3839410; www. • Hanseatic Hotel, Hamburg (& 040/ hotelenglischergarten.de): This is an 485772; www.hanseatic-hamburg. oasis of charm and tranquillity, close de): This little hotel evokes a prim to the Englischer Garten, where and proper English gentleman’s club. buffed Munich lies out nude in the Rooms are one of a kind, often con- sun. The furnishings are in an old- taining antiques. In summer, the fashioned Bavarian style, but the owner may be out front tending his comfort level is first-rate. See p. 295. flower garden, getting ready to wel- come you. See p. 606. 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF GERMANY

12 The Best Restaurants • Die Quadriga, Berlin (& 030/ as the fabled Rhineland cathedral. 214050): Critics hail this gastro- French cuisine in Cologne doesn’t get nomic wonder in the Hotel Branden- any better than this—the chefs have a burger Hof as Berlin’s finest dining prodigious talent for preparing food choice. Celebrated for its modern using only the finest and freshest Continental cuisine, it’s where the ingredients. See p. 524. president of Germany takes his • Victorian Restaurant, Düsseldorf favorite guests when he wants to (& 0211/8655020): Regulars know “show off.” While seated in a 1904 what a treasure they have in this chair designed by Frank Lloyd restaurant: Market-fresh ingredients Wright, you can enjoy food that, in a and a steady hand in the kitchen pro- word, is sublime. See p. 103. duce award-winning traditional and • Essigbrätlein, Nürnberg (& 0911/ modern food. See p. 537. 225131): Food critics single this out as • Waldhotel Sonnora, outside the best dining spot in Nürnberg, and Bernkastel-Kues (& 06578/406; we heartily agree. Its upscale Francon- www.hotel-sonnora.de): In the Mosel ian and Continental cuisine is reason Valley, the Waldhotel Sonnora is one enough to visit the city. See p. 222. of the most justifiably acclaimed • Weinhaus Zum Stachel, Würzburg restaurants in the country. Be sure to (& 0931/52770): This is the oldest make a reservation as far in advance (ca. 1413) wine house in a town as possible and prepare yourself for a loaded with them. Food is good, por- gastronomic adventure in Continen- tions are copious, the wine flows, and tal cuisine. Herr Thieltges, the chef, everyone has a wonderful time. This told us, “We don’t just serve dishes— is old-time Deutschland at its most rather, culinary masterpieces.” We appealing. See p. 246. agree. See p. 551. • Tantris, Munich (& 089/3619590): • Fischereihafen Restaurant, Altona, Savvy German food critics have hon- near Hamburg (& 040/381816): ored Tantris’s Hans Haas as the coun- Patrons from Tina Turner to Helmut try’s top chef. He definitely serves Kohl have pronounced the food here some of the finest and most innova- delightful. From a window seat, you tive food in Bavaria. See p. 307. can overlook the boats that might • Hanse Stube, Cologne (& 0221/ have hauled in your sole, eel, turbot, 2701): Located in a landmark hotel, herring, or flounder from the seas this restaurant lies on the same square that day. See p. 609.

13 The Best Beer Halls & Taverns • Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig (& 0341/ • Hofbräuhaus am Platzl, Munich 216100): The most famous tavern (& 089/221676): The Hofbräuhaus in eastern Germany, this is where is the world’s most famous beer hall Goethe staged the debate between and can accommodate some 4,500 Faust and Mephistopheles. The tav- beer drinkers on any given night. ern dates from 1530 and has a series Music from live bands and huge of murals evoking the Faust legend. mugs of beer served at wooden tables See p. 179. combine to produce the best of Bavarian nighttime fun. See p. 329. 05_138267 ch01.qxp 11/1/07 12:07 AM Page 15

THE BEST SHOPPING 15 • Zum Roten Ochsen, Heidelberg • Ratskeller, Bremen (& 0421/ (& 06221/20977): Over the years, 321676): This is one of the most “The Red Ox” has drawn beer celebrated and best Ratskellers in Ger- drinkers from Mark Twain to Bis- many. A tradition for decades, it serves marck. Students have been getting top-notch German and international plastered here since 1703, and food and some of the best suds along the tradition continues to this day. the Rhineland, as well as one of the See p. 430. longest lists of vintage wines from the country’s vineyards. See p. 566.

14 The Best Shopping The best way to approach shopping here • Handicrafts: In the Bavarian Alps, is to make it a part of your overall experi- woodcarvers still carry on their time- ence and not an end unto itself. Though honored tradition. The best place to Berlin and Munich are the major shop- purchase woodcarvings is in the ping centers in Germany, the rest of the alpine village of Oberammergau. See country is okay—neither a shopper’s “Shopping for Woodcarvings” in mecca nor the bargain basement of chapter 10. Europe. Still, you can find some good • Timepieces: Corny though they may buys here, such as: be, carved Black Forest cuckoo clocks • Porcelain: For centuries, Germany remain an enduring favorite. See has been known for the quality of its chapter 12. porcelain. Names such as KPM, • Cutlery: WMF (Württembergische- Rosenthal, and Meissen are house- Metalwaren-Fabrik) and J. A. Henck- hold words. KPM, for example, has els are two of the country’s premier been a Berlin tradition for more than producers of fine cutlery. Their 2 centuries. knives are expensive, but longtime • Toys: Nürnberg, the country’s toy users say they last forever. Both center, produces some of the most WMF and Henckels stores are found imaginative playthings in the world. all over Germany. See “Nürnberg (Nuremberg)” in chapter 7.