File20-graubunden-loc-swi7.dwg Book Initial Mapping Date Road 7 Peter 21/11/11 Scale All key roads labelled?Hierarchy Hydro ChapterGraubunden Editor Cxns Date Title Spot colours removed?Hierarchy Symbols Author MC Cxns Date Nthpt Masking in Illustrator done? Kerry Christiani Book Off map Inset/enlargement correct?dest'ns BorderCountry LocatorKey A1None Author Cxns Date Notes Basefile08-geneva-loc-swi6.dwgFinal Ed Cxns Date KEY FORMAT SETTINGS New References09-geneva-loc-swi7.dwg Number of Rows (Lines) Editor Check Date

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GraubündenPOP 193,920 / AREA 7106 SQ KM / LANGUAGES GERMAN, ROMANSCH, ITALIAN

Includes  Why Go? ...... 267 Ask locals what it is that makes their canton special and they’ll wax lyrical about how, well, wild it is. In a country & Valbella...... 272 blessed with supermodel looks, Graubünden is all about ...... 274 raw natural beauty. Whether it’s wind-battered plateaux in . . . . 276 Engadine where clouds roll over big-shouldered mountains, the gouging out knife-edge ravines near , or the Flims, & . . . 276 brooding Alpine grandeur of the Swiss National Park, this Valsertal...... 277 wonderfully remote region begs outdoor escapades. Bündner Herrschaft . . 279 While you’ve probably heard about ’ sensational ...... 280 downhill skiing, St Moritz’s glamour and the tales of & Davos. . . . 281 (fictionally born here), vast swaths of Graubünden remain little known and ripe for exploring. Strike into the on The Engadine ...... 286 foot or follow the lonesome passes that corkscrew high into Unterengadin . . . . . 286 the mountains and chances are you will be alone in exhil­ Oberengadin. . . . . 290 arating landscapes, where only the odd marmot or chamois St Moritz...... 290 and your own little gasps of wonder break the silence. Road. . .. 294 ...... 295 Val . . . . . 295 When to Go ¨¨Graubünden’s slopes buzz with skiers from mid-December to Easter. Cross-country pros swish across to Davos for the Best Places to Eat FIS Cross-Country World Cup in December, while upper-crust St Moritz attracts a discerning crowd at January’s Snow Polo ¨ ¨Bündner Stube (p270) World Cup. ¨¨Cavigilli (p277) ¨¨Summer cranks up the craziness: see men do battle with ¨¨Ecco on Snow (p293) their beards with the Internationales Alpenbarttreffen in Chur ¨¨La Riva (p274) and with their bulk Schwingen (Alpine wrestling) with Sertig Schwinget in Davos in August. ¨¨Schloss Brandis (p280) ¨¨Many resorts hibernate from May to mid-June and October to November. If you do rock up then, you might bag a good Best Places to deal and some surprisingly nice weather. Stay ¨¨Berghotel Tgantieni (p273) ¨¨Brücke 49 (p278) ¨¨Schlaf Fass (p280) 267 Graubünden Chur ­

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Ober GALLERY MUSEUM Senn CABLE CAR CABLE Housed CATHEDRAL ) 45pm mid- 45pm . c The city’s The city’s

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Hofstrasse 1; Hofstrasse

45am-4 ch; . 8 ch; . h

gr adult/child return Sfr25/5, Sfr25/5, return adult/child

Kirchgasse 12) Kirchgasse

10am-5pm Tue-Sun; 10am-5pm is superb, leading through h Chur’s 12th-century Chur’s cathedral

strewnand woods heights, Near the River, the the River, the Plessur Near (nowadays the city’s prison), it’s all it’s prison), the city’s (nowadays Feldis (1780) is a standout. (1780) 6am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, from 8am Tue, Tue, 8am from Wed-Sat, Mon & 6am-7pm Sights Activities & h

. .raetischesmuseum . .buendner-kunstmuseum

dows. St Martin presides over a burbling presides over dows. St Martin Altstadt Martinskirche marks the entrance to Chur’s alley-woven Chur’s to entrance the marks The galleryex is closed for renovation, ­ wildflower- bike park Sfr39/20; park bike that remains of the old defensive walls. remains of that (once the munitions tower), and the and tower), munitions the (once in a baroque patrician residence, this muse residence, in a baroque patrician Jun–late Oct & mid-Dec–mid-Mar) Oct Jun–late from 7am Sun) from car whisks you to Brambrüesch at 1600m, at to Brambrüesch car whisks you where views reach deep into the surround pected See the to reopen in summer 2016. for updates. website Brambrüesch 15; (Kasernenstrasse Kathedrale St Maria St Maria Kathedrale Himmelfahrt (Hof; Museum Rätisches (www 1 o Town) (Old tor hofturm o Church; (St Martin’s ing Alps. In summer, the 13km round-trip summer, ing Alps. In to hike seum key to discover the exhibitionseum key to discover from a kid-friendly angle. Bündner Kunstmuseum (www um spells out the canton’s history arte in canton’s the out spells um Roman facts, jewellery, with Bronze Age agricultural and weapons tools,statuettes, powerand religion on displays alongside and politics. Children should ask for the mu gallery an in the neoclassical Villa Planta gives insight into the artistic legacy of Graubünden- hisand Albertoborn (1877–1947) Giacometti Giovanni including talented contemporaries, Chur- Ernstand Segantini Kirchner. Ludwig Self enigmatic Kaufmann’s born Angelika Portrait child Sfr6/free; Altstadt. the stout Alongside conceals a late-1400s Jakob Russ high altar Russ Jakob conceals a late-1400s containing a splendid triptych. most iconic landmark is Martinskirche mostlandmark is Martinskirche iconic with its distinctive spire and clock face. The 8th-century church was rebuilt in the late- lit dramatically is and Gothic1491 in style stained- ­ by a trio of Augusto Giacometti win­ stone fountain in front of the church.

- - - - The . German.

­carrying 081 254 http:// 24; 24 % ( ch; Alexanderstrasse 24; 24; Alexanderstrasse ch; . In winter, carry snow chains or use . Romansch and Guten Tag Getting There & Around & There Getting Information 8 8 . graubuenden When the city was almost by fire destroyed When the city However, much more important much was the However, In medievalwas known times the region In 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Chur, the capital, POP 34,087 ELEV / 585M houses the cantonal tourist office, Graubünden Graubünden office, tourist cantonal the houses Ferien, located in the building marked cultural tonic. German-speaking artisans arrivedin 1464, to rebuild and, in the process, inadvertently So it was abu suppressed the local lingo. The Alps rise like an amphitheatre aroundThe an amphitheatre Alps rise like inhabited oldest city, Switzerland’s Chur, than an hour or more since 3000 BC. Linger and you’lltwo soon warm to the capital of AfterGraubünden. a stint in the mountains, its gallery Alberto showcasing Giacometti originals, artyrestau boutiques, authentic ­ bars are a refreshing and relaxed rants CHUR Three passes lead from northern and west ern Graubünden into the southeast Engadine region: Julier (open year-round), (summer only) and Flüela (year-round subject to weather) . These approximately correspond to three exit points into : Maloja, Bernina and Fuorn/Ofen open(all year-round) . The west to is closed in winter but, as at Albula, there’s the option of taking the car- h ‘Publicitas’, 200m east of the train station train instead tyreswinter nansvair 8 8 Ferien Graubünden ter – for free. In this way, winter tourism in winter this way, ter – for free. In Switzerland,of all later and Graubünden, was launched. . leagues (Drei Bünde) of three sociation from for the canton derives modern name (GreyBund Grauer the League). Graubünden in 1803. joined the Swiss Confederation Moritz in St owner hotel when a 1864, year for the win guests summer to stay invited The canton’s openness to all comers today is comers today to all openness The canton’s crya far from its inward-looking, diffident past. Throughout of the people the centuries, rural in isolated, largely this rugged lived area pockets, mistrustful outsiders and, aided of terrain, impregnable mountain by the near able to resist conquerors. most would-be as Rhaetia, by an as and was loosely bound History en .