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Swiat Przemyslu Kosmetyczneg Safety assessment – assessment of the impact of a given cosmetic Apparatus testing: product on the human health safety, performed in compliance with An objective assessment of the impact of tested products on the most recent guidelines of the European Union the skin condition and of the declared utility values of the Microbiological tests – as set forth in the Cosmetic Products Act and preparations COLIPA guidelines, these are tests which con rm the biocidal action Courage&Khazaka apparatus – tested parameters: hydration, of cosmetic products, house cleaning products and other goods, and TEWL, sebum (lubrication), pH level, pigmentation (blush and which are performed with methods de ned in Polish and European discolorations), temperature, elasticity. Results are elaborated in standards the form of charts, tables and descriptions and photos. Challenge test – carried out pursuant to the applicable European Miravex Antera 3D ™ and VisiofaceQuick apparatuses – tested Pharmacopoeias or PN EN ISO 11930:2012; in agreement with the parameters: size and depth of wrinkles, color (rush and client, depending on speci c needs and the purpose of the test, we discolorations), smoothening, pore level, UV. Results are elaborated may introduce modi cations to the research method and establish in the form of charts, tables and descriptions and photos. individually e ectiveness criteria Thermographic testing - a thermic assessment of the skin, which Dermatological tests: shows the blood flow in the hypodermis. It is most often used to Patch Test – dermatological test (open, semi-open and closed) check the advancement of cellulite and the effects of its treatment Photo Patch Tests – phototoxicity and photoallergy UV coefficient assessment (UVA and UVB): assessment UV coefficient testing with the in vivo method, in compliance Tests of skin tolerance in the spot of application with COLIPA Guidelines (2007 Guideline), BOOTS Guidelines Usage tests: (2008 revision) or FDA ones: Individual selection of test subjects, depending on product - UVB – SPF coefficient testing characteristics and intended use; large groups of subjects (as - UVA - UVA/UVB coefficient testing recommended by the manufacturer) - Photostability testing Skin tolerance to the product on the spot of application - Water resistance testing Individual, subjective assessment by each research subjects of: - Phototoxicity and photoallergy testing – the utility value of the product; A quick testing useful in formula de nition (results in only 3 days) – the action of the product as declared by the manufacturer. UV coefficient testing with the in vitro method; methodology Tests may also be carried out under the supervision of based on COLIPA procedures and FDA standards: another MD specialists, e.g. in dermatology, gynecology, - UVB – SPF (in-vitro) coefficient testing ophthalmology, allergology or in other areas. - UVA – PPD coefficient testing Teresa Kubsz-Miller Editor of issue „The World of the Cosmetics Industry” Dear Readers We invite you to read this year’s fi rst issue of “ The World of the Cosmetics Industry” magazine. For some time now the Polish cosmetics market has been preparing for changes which will come into eff ect on 13 July 2013. So, specially for you, we have prepared a section devoted to Good Manufacturing Practice in the production of cosmetics, to remind you once again what changes the new regulation will bring. As always, the magazine also includes many interesting articles related to production, quality control, and raw materials in cosmetics. Taking numerous domestic and foreign fairs into account, the magazine is also being issued in English. Enjoy the reading Programme Board: Anna Oborska PhD Ewa Starzyk – Polish Association of Cosmetics – Scientifi c Director at Polish and Home Care Products Producers Union of Private Employers of Cosmetics Industry Quarterly, published by Subscription and distribution: Editors: Joanna Korzonek, Maria Kubsz-Łatas, FARMACOM phone: +48 32 455 31 61 [email protected] Tomasz Butyński, phone: +48 32 455 31 61 Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 Issue price „ŚPK” – 16 PLN [email protected] ul. 26 Marca 31/11 Annual subscription price – 55 PLN DTP: PROGRAFIKA [email protected] Payments may be made to the account: www.farmacom.com.pl ING Bank Śląski O/Wodzisław Śląski Printing: BIMART 56 1050 1403 1000 0023 2091 8119 Number of copies printed: Editor-in-chief: Polish issue: 3 500 egz. Robert Miller Editor of issue: English issue: 1 000 egz. phone: +48 32 455 31 61 Teresa Kubsz-Miller mobile: +48502 084 101 phone: +48 32 456 60 79 [email protected] mobile: +48 533 533 161 A specialist quarterly targeted at cosmetics industry producers, as well as suppliers who offer products and services within the cosmetics field. The magazine is addressed to process and production engineers, automatic systems specialists, heads of production, control and quality assurance divisions, heads of logistics and procurement divisions and product development divisions at cosmetics companies. The magazine is also targeted at product managers, sales and marketing directors, chief decision makers in purchasing departments, university professors and other faculty members, representatives of industry organizations and institutes, as well as private individuals. The editors reserve the right to shorten and edit material. The editors are not responsible for the content of advertisements. The use of materials and publication of advertisements produced by the publisher is permitted only with the editor’s consent. download *.pdf version: www.farmacom.com.pl 1/2013 contents 6 PRODUCT CLAIMS – CRITERIA AND USE Laura Błażko Quality Manager 10 The approaching changes in the cosmetics industry Sylwia Stokowska Expert in Cosmetic Products, TÜV Rheinland Poland 40 Depigmentation substances in cosmetic products Magdalena Sikora, Ph.D. , Doctor of Engineering University of Technology, Łódź 6 The approaching changes in the cosmetics industry 22 20th anniversary of the Polish Association of Cosmetics 8 New regulations will aff ect the relationship between manufacturers and Home Care Products Producers and distributors of cosmetic products 10 PRODUCT CLAIMS – CRITERIA AND USE 13 GMP – practical guidelines 24 Selecting and verifying methods of neutralization of antimicrobial properties of cosmetics 26 List of methods used for preservative eff ectiveness testing 14 Modern methods of testing sunscreen products 17 Stem cells – what are they? 1/2013 download *.pdf version: www.farmacom.com.pl 36 Chemical peeling agents – not always cosmetic Ewa Starzyk The Polish Union of the Cosmetics Industry Selecting and verifying methods Anna of neutralization of antimicrobial Frydrych Cederroth properties of cosmetics Polska S.A. Piotr Nowaczyk, Dorota Merlak Argenta Mikrobiologia Sp. z o.o. Sp. K. 24 52 Processing of plastics in the process of manufacturing packaging for make up cosmetics 30 DERMOSOFT® OMP – a tailored solution 56 Systematic development – how an IT system can show a company 32 The role of metalloproteinases in skin aging process the way for development and assist it in implementing changes 36 Chemical peeling agents – not always cosmetic 59 Current trends in modern hair care 40 Depigmentation substances in cosmetic products 44 Beauty care products 46 Parabens – facts and myths 50 The power of attraction, the scent of desire… download *.pdf version: www.farmacom.com.pl 1/2013 Certyfikacja kosmetyków 6 | GMP production Jakoœæ pod nadzorem ekspertów Dobre Praktyki Produkcji (Good Manufacturing Practice) s¹ niezbêdne do wytwarzaniaThe wyrobów approaching changes bezpiecznych i przyjaznych konsumentowi. Najlepszym narzêdziem do wdro¿enia GMP jest norma ISO 22716. Dostarcza ona wytycznych dla produkcji, kontroli jakoœci, magazynowania i wysy³ki produktów kosmetycznych. TÜV Rheinland Polska oferuje przeprowadzenie certyfikacji na zgodnoœæ z ISO 22716 wed³ug najwy¿szych standardów. in the cosmetics industry Kosmetyki to produkty codziennego u¿ytku, podlegaj¹ce uwa¿nej ocenie konsumenckiej. Z myœl¹ o producentach pragn¹cych wyró¿niæ swoje wyroby oraz podkreœliæ icSylwiah jakoœæ stw Stokowskaorzyliœmy znak TÜV Rheinland GMP ISO 22716. Znak GMP umieszczony na produkcie zaœwiadcza o jego jakoœci Expert in Cosmetic Products, potwierdzonej przez niezale¿n¹ jednostkê certyfikuj¹c¹, rozpoznawan¹ przez konsumentów na ca³ym œwiecie. TÜV Rheinland Poland For quite some time now the producers of cosmetic products have been following legislative developments at the EU level in an attempt to adapt to the upcoming changes, which will become www.tuv.pl effective from 11th July 2013 with the entry into force of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products. During the transition period the producers are sparing no efforts to come up to the expectations and requirements of the new law. Let me briefly explore the changes that the new regulation will bring about. In general, the upcoming regulation on cosmetic products will transfer cosmetics industry. Safety assessors are required to regularly follow online responsibility for the quality of cosmetic products from the Ministry of Health databases (Chembank) listing ingredients of cosmetic products. Cosmetic (the National Institute of Hygiene) to producers and distributors. It will defi ne product safety reports should be updated to refl ect all amendments to the general safety parameters to be followed by producers under the pain of applicable laws, as well as all modifi cations
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