2 3 Essaouira SPAIN MEDITERRANEAN SEA Saïdia Rabat ATLANTIC OCEAN 5 Editorial Zagora 6 Mogador 8 Essaouira’s Azur horizon ALGERIA CANARY ISLANDS 10 Experiencing the town 12 Souiri craftwork 16 Off beat and upbeat 18 Festivals 20 Activities in the town 22 The region 26 Information and useful addresses MAURITANIA 4 5 Editorial A town where the trade winds play With the gentlest of touches, Essaouira stirs awake the artist that slumbers within each of us. The azure blue of its horizon, its rosy ochre fortifications, and white houses with their blue shutters make up a perfect watercolour. Behind its walls, protected from the wind, a timeless world goes about its business. Here, the architects of days gone by spark the creativity of new generations. The fair enchantress weaves her arcane magic with delicate strength. It proud cannons facing the sea, it cannot but make an impression on all those who visit it. But come closer, look into it heart, and let yourself be spellbound by it subtleties. Let the heady scent of thuja wood lead you to it craftsmen, with their swift, nimble constant fingers at work. Seated around a table among newfound friends, glass of mint tea in hand, Essaouira’s fishing port. discover a new realm of conviviality. Fishing is one of the town’s main activities – no surprise, as its Renowned for its culture and its festival, the town where the trade winds waters are teeming with play is also a paradise for surfers from all corners of the world. And a fish! much beloved bathing resort that attracts thousands of holidaymakers every year. More than just a town, Essaouira is a muse, a source of undying inspiration. The Sea Gate 6 7 Mogador Sheltered from the trade winds, Sultan Mohamed Ibn Abdallah. This the archipelago was discovered by was the beginning of a long period of the Phoenicians in the 7th century prosperity, and the city remained a BC. Used as an anchorage by the major centre for foreign trade until Carthaginian sailor Hanno in 500 the early 20th century. BC, it served for several centuries as an outpost on the route from Cap- These days, Essaouira is a haven of Vert and the Equator. In 146 BC, peace that inspires artists from all the Romans conquered the island over the world. Listed as a UNESCO and turned it into a vassal state under World Heritage site, its medina the rule of the King of Mauritania. remains untouched by the passing Towards the end of the 1st century centuries, seemingly impervious to BC, under Juba II, the great builder the ravages of time. Behind its walls of Volubilis, it became a centre for hides a luminous city of winding production of salted fish and purple alleyways, picturesque little squares dye – for which latter the “Purple and whitewashed houses. Used by Islands” were famed up until the fall Orson Welles as the location for his of the Roman Empire. film of “Othello”, it has inspired and enthralled a host of later filmmakers. A town once much The Portuguese established a major Ridley Scott, for one, recreated Tourists arriving at the Sea Gate before the port was built (1910) coveted by invaders, trading post there in the Middle Ages, Jerusalem here for his film “Kingdom Essaouira is protec- baptising the town Mogador. In 1541, of Heaven”. In the 1960s and 70s it ted by an impressive it came under Saadian rule before became a playground for Jimi Hendrix defence system. falling into the hands of the Alaouites. and numbers of his fellow musicians, Not to be missed The city was renamed Essaouira, and and continues today to live to the Set off in search of magic in the protect the port, the Sqala is lined a new town was built there in 1765 by hypnotic rhythm of Gnaoua drums. footsteps of artists past and present… with cannons, and you can walk the Wander through the medina and length of its ramparts and be rewarded wonder at the decorative and by breath-taking views of the island architectural richness of its buildings. of Mogador and the fishing port. The splendid residences once Connecting the town to the port, the inhabited by consuls to the city, Sea Gate is of imposing grandeur. sumptuously blending Moroccan style Built in 1769, this monumental with European. Turn a corner, and freestone edifice is adorned with twin you’re sure to come across a painter, columns and a triangular pediment. local or come from afar, struggling to Protecting the city from attacks by capture the beauty of his surroundings sea, the north bastion is a vast artillery on canvas. The city’s renown as an platform surrounded by crenellated artist’s wonderland is perpetuated by walls. Its terrace provides unparalleled a wealth of studios and art galleries. views of the medina and the Sqala. Once a much coveted prize, Essaouira is protected by an impressive defence system of fortified bastions. Built to A view over the medina A typical medina doorway 8 9 Essaouira’s Azur horizon On the Atlantic coast, across from have made their home on the resort’s the medina, Mogador’s seaside resort seven artificial lakes. Every step along is set to rekindle the town’s tourist the way reveals new aspects of the spirit. An integral part of “Plan town of Essaouira, the dunes, and the Azur” – a project that seeks to develop ocean beyond. intelligent tourism – it includes a full range of infrastructures perfectly Devoted to leisure and relaxation, integrated into their surroundings. the Mogador resort is equipped with Authenticity, sport and culture are three golf courses, each following the the key words here. natural topography of their setting, with its dunes, golden sands and Luxury hotels and villas of abundant plant life. Here, your every Luxury hotel infrastruc- real character stand ready for whim is accommodated. Tennis or golf tures holidaymakers in an idyllic setting. to keep you in trim, spa for relaxation, Take to the pathways on foot or by and luxury shops for a holiday spree... bike, and get to know the seagulls that Mogador Golf Club Essaouira Beach 10 11 Experiencing the town The medina riads If you really want to experience life as souks are alive with bustle and colour. lived by the Souiris, there’s nothing to From foodstuffs to craftwork, each of beat a riad. Many of these traditional re- the medina’s souks is a magical expe- sidences in the heart of the medina have rience that carries you off into new been renovated to provide guests passing worlds. The giddy scents of shimme- through with every modern comfort. The ring spices hang in the air along with typical riad stands around a central, sun- the fragrance of worked wood, bringing drenched patio, the living heart of the the senses to joyous life once again. house. Often adorned with a fountain The displays of hand-woven fabrics and and planted with orange or olive trees, it silver jewellery are a feast for the eyes. becomes a shaded inner garden. Indoors, Wander at will among the shops – you follow the corridors to your room, deco- won’t come away empty-handed! rated in the purest Moroccan tradition and equipped with every modern conve- Moulay Hassan Square nience. The terrace provides 360° views, Moulay Hassan Square is Essaouira’s and is the ideal spot for casting an admi- nerve centre – the liveliest place in town! A fisherman home from ring eye over the medina. Situated in the medina, not far from the The walkway along the Sqala ramparts the sea city walls and the port, this pretty tree- Essaouira’s souks filled square is an ideal setting for enjoying What would Essaouira be without its a glass of mint tea. Sit back on one of its souks! An unmissable destination café terraces and watch the casual comings Local gastronomy: Top restau- to dinner in a former Kaidal residence or for Moroccans and tourists alike, the and goings of the passers-by. rants and gourmet eating at the restored riad – a feast of exquisite flavours fishing port. and delicate fragrances awaits you. Argan As elsewhere in Morocco, you can settle oil – famed for its many restorative pro- yourself down on a sofa or perch your- perties and its fine almond and hazelnut self on a pouf and share a delicious ta- taste – is much used in local cuisine to jine or couscous in good company. But set off the subtle flavours of the dishes. what Souiri gastronomy is best known for is its fresh fish. Essaouira is a city The Sidi Mohammed Benab- of fishermen, and makes the utmost dallah Museum of what the ocean provides. The port’s Housed in a former seigniorial residence open-air restaurants entice visitors with built in the 19th century, the Sidi Mo- dishes prepared from the morning’s catch hammed Ben Abdellah Museum presents – impossible to resist the inviting aroma the Province of Essaouira’s cultural heri- of freshly grilled fish! And in the heart tage. Visitors can find information on the of the medina, the most demanding of history of the city and its region from pre- gourmets will delight in the sophisticated historic times to the present day. The mu- cuisine and fairytale settings provided by seum also exhibits a number of collections the town’s top restaurants. Treat yourself focusing on the town’s craft heritage. Strolling through the old medina’s streets to discover its craftspeople and their know-how Grilled freshly caught fish in the port’s little restaurants 12 13 Souiri craftwork Cabinetwork and thuja wood frescoes, covering animal skins or Made use of by inlayers since time strips of walnut bark.