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Essaouira SPAIN

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Saïdia

ATLANTIC OCEAN

5 Editorial Zagora 6 Mogador 8 ’s Azur horizon ALGERIA 10 Experiencing the town 12 Souiri craftwork 16 Off beat and upbeat 18 Festivals 20 Activities in the town 22 The region 26 Information and useful addresses

MAURITANIA 4 5

Editorial

A town where the trade winds play With the gentlest of touches, Essaouira stirs awake the artist that slumbers within each of us. The azure blue of its horizon, its rosy ochre , and white houses with their blue shutters make up a perfect watercolour. Behind its walls, protected from the wind, a timeless world goes about its business. Here, the architects of days gone by spark the creativity of new generations.

The fair enchantress weaves her arcane magic with delicate strength. It proud cannons facing the sea, it cannot but make an impression on all those who visit it. But come closer, look into it heart, and let yourself be spellbound by it subtleties. Let the heady scent of thuja wood lead you to it craftsmen, with their swift, nimble constant fingers at work. Seated around a table among newfound friends, glass of mint tea in hand, Essaouira’s fishing port. discover a new realm of conviviality. Fishing is one of the town’s main activities – no surprise, as its Renowned for its culture and its festival, the town where the trade winds waters are teeming with play is also a paradise for surfers from all corners of the world. And a fish! much beloved bathing resort that attracts thousands of holidaymakers every year.

More than just a town, Essaouira is a muse, a source of undying inspiration.

The Sea Gate 6 7

Mogador

Sheltered from the trade winds, Sultan Mohamed Ibn Abdallah. This the archipelago was discovered by was the beginning of a long period of the Phoenicians in the 7th century prosperity, and the remained a BC. Used as an anchorage by the major centre for foreign trade until Carthaginian sailor Hanno in 500 the early 20th century. BC, it served for several centuries as an outpost on the route from Cap- These days, Essaouira is a haven of Vert and the Equator. In 146 BC, peace that inspires artists from all the Romans conquered the island over the world. Listed as a UNESCO and turned it into a vassal state under World Heritage site, its the rule of the King of Mauritania. remains untouched by the passing Towards the end of the 1st century centuries, seemingly impervious to BC, under Juba II, the great builder the ravages of time. Behind its walls of , it became a centre for hides a luminous city of winding production of salted fish and purple alleyways, picturesque little squares dye – for which latter the “Purple and whitewashed houses. Used by Islands” were famed up until the fall Orson Welles as the location for his of the . film of “Othello”, it has inspired and enthralled a host of later filmmakers. A town once much The Portuguese established a major Ridley Scott, for one, recreated Tourists arriving at the Sea Gate before the port was built (1910) coveted by invaders, trading post there in the Middle Ages, Jerusalem here for his film “Kingdom Essaouira is protec- baptising the town Mogador. In 1541, of Heaven”. In the 1960s and 70s it ted by an impressive it came under Saadian rule before became a playground for Jimi Hendrix defence system. falling into the hands of the Alaouites. and numbers of his fellow musicians, Not to be missed The city was renamed Essaouira, and and continues today to live to the Set off in search of magic in the protect the port, the Sqala is lined a new town was built there in 1765 by hypnotic rhythm of Gnaoua drums. footsteps of artists past and present… with cannons, and you can walk the Wander through the medina and length of its ramparts and be rewarded wonder at the decorative and by breath-taking views of the island architectural richness of its buildings. of Mogador and the fishing port. The splendid residences once Connecting the town to the port, the inhabited by consuls to the city, Sea Gate is of imposing grandeur. sumptuously blending Moroccan style Built in 1769, this monumental with European. Turn a corner, and freestone edifice is adorned with twin you’re sure to come across a painter, columns and a triangular pediment. local or come from afar, struggling to Protecting the city from attacks by capture the beauty of his surroundings sea, the north bastion is a vast artillery on canvas. The city’s renown as an platform surrounded by crenellated artist’s wonderland is perpetuated by walls. Its terrace provides unparalleled a wealth of studios and art galleries. views of the medina and the Sqala. Once a much coveted prize, Essaouira is protected by an impressive defence system of fortified bastions. Built to

A view over the medina A typical medina doorway 8 9

Essaouira’s Azur horizon

On the Atlantic coast, across from have made their home on the resort’s the medina, Mogador’s seaside resort seven artificial lakes. Every step along is set to rekindle the town’s tourist the way reveals new aspects of the spirit. An integral part of “Plan town of Essaouira, the dunes, and the Azur” – a project that seeks to develop ocean beyond. intelligent tourism – it includes a full range of infrastructures perfectly Devoted to leisure and relaxation, integrated into their surroundings. the Mogador resort is equipped with Authenticity, sport and culture are three golf courses, each following the the key words here. natural topography of their setting, with its dunes, golden sands and Luxury hotels and villas of abundant plant life. Here, your every Luxury hotel infrastruc- real character stand ready for whim is accommodated. Tennis or golf tures holidaymakers in an idyllic setting. to keep you in trim, spa for relaxation, Take to the pathways on foot or by and luxury shops for a holiday spree... bike, and get to know the seagulls that

Mogador Golf Club

Essaouira Beach 10 11

Experiencing the town

The medina riads If you really want to experience life as souks are alive with bustle and colour. lived by the Souiris, there’s nothing to From foodstuffs to craftwork, each of beat a . Many of these traditional re- the medina’s souks is a magical expe- sidences in the heart of the medina have rience that carries you off into new been renovated to provide guests passing worlds. The giddy scents of shimme- through with every modern comfort. The ring spices hang in the air along with typical riad stands around a central, sun- the fragrance of worked wood, bringing drenched patio, the living heart of the the senses to joyous life once again. house. Often adorned with a fountain The displays of hand-woven fabrics and and planted with orange or olive trees, it silver jewellery are a feast for the eyes. becomes a shaded inner garden. Indoors, Wander at will among the shops – you follow the corridors to your room, deco- won’t come away empty-handed! rated in the purest Moroccan tradition and equipped with every modern conve- Moulay Hassan Square nience. The terrace provides 360° views, Moulay Hassan Square is Essaouira’s and is the ideal spot for casting an admi- nerve centre – the liveliest place in town! A fisherman home from ring eye over the medina. Situated in the medina, not far from the The walkway along the Sqala ramparts the sea city walls and the port, this pretty tree- Essaouira’s souks filled square is an ideal setting for enjoying What would Essaouira be without its a glass of mint tea. Sit back on one of its souks! An unmissable destination café terraces and watch the casual comings Local gastronomy: Top restau- to dinner in a former Kaidal residence or for Moroccans and tourists alike, the and goings of the passers-by. rants and gourmet eating at the restored riad – a feast of exquisite flavours fishing port. and delicate fragrances awaits you. Argan As elsewhere in , you can settle oil – famed for its many restorative pro- yourself down on a sofa or perch your- perties and its fine and hazelnut self on a pouf and share a delicious ta- taste – is much used in local cuisine to jine or couscous in good company. But set off the subtle flavours of the dishes. what Souiri gastronomy is best known for is its fresh fish. Essaouira is a city The Sidi Mohammed Benab- of fishermen, and makes the utmost dallah Museum of what the ocean provides. The port’s Housed in a former seigniorial residence open-air restaurants entice visitors with built in the 19th century, the Sidi Mo- dishes prepared from the morning’s catch hammed Ben Abdellah Museum presents – impossible to resist the inviting aroma the Province of Essaouira’s cultural heri- of freshly grilled fish! And in the heart tage. Visitors can find information on the of the medina, the most demanding of history of the city and its region from pre- gourmets will delight in the sophisticated historic times to the present day. The mu- cuisine and fairytale settings provided by seum also exhibits a number of collections the town’s top restaurants. Treat yourself focusing on the town’s craft heritage. Strolling through the old medina’s streets to discover its craftspeople and their know-how Grilled freshly caught fish in the port’s little restaurants 12 13

Souiri craftwork

Cabinetwork and thuja wood frescoes, covering animal skins or Made use of by inlayers since time strips of walnut bark. In the galleries, immemorial, these days thuja wood watercolours shimmer from canvases is a rare commodity and is only to and panelling. Anything can be used be found in the workshops of the Es- as a support! saouira region. With its golden-veined deep red colour and heady fragrance, Silver jewellery it is used in the fashioning of a wide Essaouira’s silver jewellery is renow- range of artefacts, including boxes, ned for its quality and finesse. The jewel cases, trays and statuettes. craft owes its existence and fame to the Jewish silversmiths of the 18th Painters century. Design and manufacturing Essaouira continues to inspire pain- techniques remain almost unchanged Silver earrings in the ters galore. Strolling along the ram- from those of days gone by, and the A thuja wood table created by the city’s master inlayers shape of fibulae – a tra- parts, you will come across richly craftsmen’s creativity is inexhaustible. ditional Berber symbol coloured dark red, blue and yellow

Musical instruments Essaouira’s stringed-instrument ma- player) accompanied by fellow musi- kers display unparalleled skill in the cians playing the krakebs (large metal fashioning of such traditional instru- castanets) and a heavy drum. ments as the lute, the tambourine, the gumbri and the hajhouj. The gumbri is Creators an age-old instrument, the foundation Sculptors, young designers, couturiers of Gnaoua music and dance, and its - creators of all persuasions have found sometimes languid sometimes upbeat refuge behind Mogador’s ancient walls. melodies have formed the background Drawing inspiration from the city’s tra- music to Morocco’s artistic scene ditional arts, they transform and revisit for some years now. Gnaoua soirées Souiri culture, bringing with them a feature the Maalem (master gumbri touch of modernity and extravagance.

A young Gnaoua musician playing the A painting by a Souiri artist krakebs (castanets) 14 15 16 17

Offbeat and upbeat

The Purple Islands, a bird sanctuary. Located off Essaouira, the Purple Is- pelago, which once knew glory as a lands have been on the map since An- producer of purple dye, now harbours tiquity. Fragments of pottery and cera- a rather more volatile population. As mics dating back to the 7th century BC a bird sanctuary, it provides refuge for have been found there, bearing witness gulls and seagulls, and for the very rare to the presence of the Phoenicians. Eleanor’s falcon, a protected bird of The little archipelago is made up of two prey that comes to nest there from April main islands and a scattering of tiny to October before setting off to Mada- islets. The largest island, which covers gascar. The site is currently closed to the some 30 hectares, is known as “Pha- public, but you may be lucky enough roah’s Island” and contains an abando- to catch a glimpse of the bird through ned prison built in the late 19th cen- binoculars from Essaouira beach, espe- Eleanor’s falcon, which tury, a mosque, and an impressive fort. cially in the evening. The patio of “Riad Al Madina”, where the famous guitarist Jimi Hendrix stayed in 1969 finds refuge in the Long uninhabited by man, the archi- Purple Islands

In search of Jimi Hendrix and Co. In midsummer 1969, Essaouira re- Madina, and set about making new ceived an unexpected guest. Jimi Hen- friends. Hardly had he got there; drix, then at the height of his glory however, than it was time to leave, to and suffering the ravaging effects of rehearse for the festival of the year, too much fame, decided to take a few Woodstock. His lightning but legen- days’ holiday and flew off to Morocco. dary visit will live on in the town’s his- The Purple Islands owe their name to the purple pigment extracted from Arriving in Essaouira, he breathed in tory forever! the murex, a type of shellfish. Applied as a dye, it turns fabrics a rich red the air, set down his bags at the Hô- colour with highlights rainging from maroon to violet. In Antiquity, red tel du Pacha, now renamed Riad Al was the symbol of temporal and spiritual power, and the colour purple was The Purple Islands, a bird sanctuary much sought after by the Roman aristocracy. 18 19

Festivals

The Gnaoua World Music Festival offers four days of multicultural Each year, as summer gets underway, music to suit all tastes. Symphonic Essaouira is transformed into a temple music, classical and popular music, to music. Hundreds of thousands of chorales and opera sonatas fill the air festivalgoers abandon themselves to in idyllic surroundings. The festival the bewitching rhythms of Gnaoui has met with overwhelming success music. The greatest Gnaoua Maalêms since it was first launched in 2001, (master musicians) carry their and is now an unmissable event that audience away on mystical cadences welcomes famous musicians and great and resonances that have been known orchestras from all over the world. to induce states of trance. The event also welcomes musicians from all The Atlantic Andalusia Festival over the world, providing a joyous This is a real Moroccan-Spanish music and cultural mix. Open to all, cultural forum with Mediterranean the Gnaoua World Music Festival is and Latin American influences also an opportunity for young local thrown in. Eclectic programming musicians to get themselves known to includes concerts, arts workshops, a wider public. colloquiums, exhibitions, and more Poster for Essaouira’s besides. The festival is an excellent Gnaoua World Music Festival des Alizés opportunity to explore the roots Festival A date in every music lover’s diary, the and ramifications of the Andalusian Printemps Musical des Alizés Festival cultural heritage.

The Gnaoua Festival, held every year in Essaouira, attracts a wide public 20 21

Activities in the town

Off the beaten track Thalassotherapy A true temple to well-being, Essaouira including massages and sea is the ideal spot for getting yourself back mud and seaweed wraps. Programmes in trim, with a number of top-quality alternate relaxation, physical activity and specialised centres providing relaxing tailor-made treatments, nudging you treatments in tranquil surroundings. gently and surely back into shape again. Making therapeutic use of such marine elements as sand, seaweed and seawater, Surfing, and wind- thalassotherapy helps combat numerous surfing bodily ills, including heavy legs syn- The wind blows hard across Essaouira drome, back problems, and joint and Bay. And while others may appre- muscle pain. It fosters good health, re- ciate the protection offered by the city Natural cosmetic laxes the body and soothes the mind. walls, surfers, windsurfers and kite- A kiteboarder skimming the waves. Each year, the town hosts an international kiteboarding competition products produced from Combining the ocean’s many benefits boarders have no hesitation in taking argan oil and used for with those provided by Essaouira’s ter- to the water. Over the last few years, body and beauty care roir, the city’s well-being specialists pro- the town has become a highly popular vide the very best in natural body care, destination among water board sports Fishing enthusiasts, hosting the final stage of Fishing is a major Souiri activity. the annual Kiteboard World Cup, an Tuna, sargue, bass, mullet, bream unmissable rendezvous for the world’s - rod fishers will enjoy dining on best kiteboarders. And ever increasing the fish they’ve caught earlier in the numbers of young people are following day. Underwater fishing, harpoon at in their board sports heroes’ footsteps, the ready, is also a popular pastime, with a range of schools offering les- whether alongside the coast or on the sons and courses dispensed by quali- high seas. You can obtain a permit for fied professionals. this sort of fishing through the local tourist office. Water sports There’s no lack of activities to enjoy on Essaouira’s immense beach. If you’re looking for excitement, you might try your hand at waterskiing, jetskiing, or underwater diving.

The town is also famous for thalassotherapy 22 23

The region

The coast, from Safi to The best surf spots and many remarkably beautiful Some of the world’s finest surf spots monuments are hidden away behind are to be found along the coast that the wall that still encircles its medina. links Safi, Essaouira, and Agadir. A city of major importance under the The first surfers arrived in Almohad and Almoravid dynasties, in the 1970s, along with the hippies, Safi acted as Marrakech’s principal and since then, the site’s reputation port when the latter was Morocco’s has steadily increased, attracting capital. ever growing numbers of water board sports fans. Today, the region is Capital of the Doukkala Abda region, known worldwide for its powerful the town is also famed for its pottery. waves and its constant heavy swell To understand just how important from September to April. the activity is, you must pay a visit to the Potters’ Hill, where dozens Another area beloved of surfers, of workshops are located, and where the Imessouane coast is an unspoilt Safi’s craftsmen continue to make miniature paradise of remarkable good use of the age-old know-how biodiversity where you can surf all handed down to them over succeeding Surfing , an emblematic year round. Heaviness of swell scarcely generations. sport of the city varies with the seasons, enabling experienced surfers and beginners If the city has plenty to offer history alike to ride the waves at will. buffs, it also attracts surfing fans. The Safi Wave is listed among the 10 best Safi “World Class Waves”, and every year Safi overlooks the ocean from one the greatest international surfers flock end of the city to the other. The to the spot to take on its irresistible town boasts a rich historical heritage, challenge.

A pottery shop A Portuguese-style doorway The Portuguese fort, Safi 24 25

The region

The hinterland Make the contrast – the Essaouira You can wander the length of the region boasts a wide variety of coast along cliffside pathways or white landscapes, great biodiversity, and a sandy beaches, in discovery of the rich cultural heritage – to discover on little fishing villages that border the foot, on horseback, or atop a camel…. ocean.

In the land of the argan and olive Towards Marrakech The world’s largest area of argan Cross the great desert plains that forest lies between Essaouira, Agadir separate Essaouira from Marrakech, and and Taroudant – a national treasure the giddy peaks of the Atlas Mountains and also, with its goats perched stand towering above you. The Toubkal nonchalantly in the treetops, a highly National Park makes a perfect setting popular excursion destination. Visitors for a gentle stroll or a more physically here can enjoy unspoilt natural challenging spot of trekking, with its surroundings, where argan, almond, varied relief of plateaus, cliffs, steep An argan tree – the tree is endemic to Mo- and olive trees grow wild side by side. gorges, ridges, water courses and lakes. rocco and only grows in And while you’re in the area, you can Standing 4,167 metres above sea the Essaouira region admire the know-how of the women as level, Djebel Toubkal is ’s they work at extracting argan oil, and highest peak. It’s not too hard to climb, appreciate the traditional hospitality and local muleteers are on hand to of Berber culture. ensure you don’t overtax yourself!

A Berber woman works at extracting argan oil Essaouira’s hinterland – argan tree country 26 27

Information and useful addresses

Entry formalities : Regional Tourist Office : A valid passport for a stay of less than 10, Rue de Caire BP 261 Essaouira 90 days is required. An identity card may Tel: (00 212) 05 24 78 35 32 suffice, depending on country of origin, Fax: (00 212) 05 24 78 35 30 if the trip is organised by a travel agency for a group of over 8 people. A visa is 26 rue Imam Malek Safi required for some nationalities – enquire Tel: (00 212) 05 24 62 24 96 at a Moroccan consulate or diplomatic Fax: (00 212) 05 24 62 45 53 representation in you country. No specific vaccinations are required Essaouira Provincial Tourism Council : for entry into the Kingdom of Morocco. Boulevard Mohammed V, Hôtel des Iles If you are bringing your pet along with Tel: (00 212) 05 24 78 36 36 you, however, you will need to be able to Fax: (00 212) 05 24 78 55 90 produce an anti-rabies certificate less than 6 months old. ONCF Railway station : Call center : 08 90 20 30 40 Changing money : Website : www..ma Moroccan currency is the dirham, made up of 100 centimes. Foreign currency must Airport : be exchanged at banks or other accredited Call center : 08 90 00 08 00 establishments. Golf : Mogador Golf Club Time zone : www.golfdemogador.com Morocco is in the Greenwich time zone, and time is G.M.T. Weather forecast : www.meteoma.net

Event Calendar : Office des Changes : April : Printemps Musical des Alizés (Currency regulation authorities) Festival www.oc.gov.ma June : Gnaoua World Music Festival June : Safi Surfing Tournament Emergency phone numbers : August : Kiteboarding Cup Police 19 September : Atlantic Andalusia Festival Fire Brigade 150 Directory enquiries 160 Road safety services 177

For further information: www.visitmorocco.com Moroccan National Tourist Office www.visitmorocco.com