My Bombay Kitchen, by Niloufer King University of California Press, 2007

aam ras, 243–44 arhar dal. See pigeon peas Abelmoschus esculentus, 305. See also okra arvi. See taro adu. See ginger asafetida, 37, 290 adu lasan (ginger-garlic paste), 36, 112, 300 Asian pears adu nu raitu, 226–27 fruit chutney, 233 ajmo. See ajwain Asian squash. See gourds ajmo na patra. See Cuban oregano aspic, tomato, 76 ajowan. See ajwain avocado, pomelo salad with, 220 ajwain, 289 butter, for corn on the cob, 51 badam. See almonds roasted cashews with, 50–51 badian (star anise), 312 "ajwain" leaf. See Cuban oregano bafela chaval, 162–64 akuri, 85–86 baffat, 129–31 pattis stuffed with, 123 Bana, Dhun, 63 Albless, Sehra, 64 banana leaves, 100–101, 102 aleti paleti, 151–52 fish in banana-leaf parcels, 100–102 Allium cepa, 305. See also onion(s) bananas, 204. See also plantains allium confit, 186–87 banana raita, 225 eggs on onions, 90 papri claypot stew, 208–9 Allium sativum, 299. See also garlic basic equipment, 30, 33 almonds, 289–90 sources, 316 almond gravy, chicken in, 140 basic ingredients, 34–48 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 glossary, 289–314 crisp almond wafers (variation), 260–61 sources, 315–16 giant cookie, 263 basic techniques, 32–33 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 basil seed, 278, 290 am haldi, 304 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 amaranth, 192–93, 290 basmati rice, 162, 163, 308. See also rice amaranth leaf fritters, 57 bay leaves, 292 braised greens, 191–92 bean greens meat cooked with greens, 114–15 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– beans. See also long beans; mung beans 80 field or hyacinth beans, 208, 299; papri claypot stew, Amaranthus. See amaranth 208–9 amba aradh. See mango ginger green, in Russian salad, 213–14 amli. See tamarind guar beans, 300; guar bean ragout, 195 Amomum subulatum, 292 seared (variation), 54 Amorphophallus campanulatus, 205, 298 beef, 112 Anacardium occidentale, 292. See also cashews ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22 Anethum graveolens, 297. See also dill heart, Parsi anticuchos, 160 angel-hair potatoes, 200–201 tongue, salted, 154–56 anticuchos, Parsi, 160 beer, 271 appalams. See papads beetroot nu salad, 214 appetizers. See beginnings beets apples beet salad, 214 fruit chutney, 233 Russian salad, 213–14 apricot kernels, 141, 301 beginnings, 49–72 apricots (jardalu), 141, 249, 301 about, 49–50 chicken with, 141–42 aleti paleti on toast, 152 jardalu fool, 250 bhel puri, 67–72 jardalu ice cream, 251 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 jardalu shake, 251 creamy panir, 63–65 Mother's famous jardalu trifle, 251–52 fritters, 57–58 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 khima samosas, 121 poached jardalu s, 250 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 aradh. See turmeric Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 aradhi nu achar, 234–35 Mother's "Italian" eggs, 58–59 argan oil, 213 Parsi crudités, 53 Argania spinosa, 213 Parsi pâté, 60–62 beginnings (continued) braises (continued) roasted cashews with again, 50–51 braised leg of lamb or kid, 124–26 seared peas, 53–54 duck legs braised with little onions, 148–49 smoked fish spread, 60 savory braised chicken with aromatics, 137–39 taro-leaf rolls, 54–56 savory braised lamb, goat, veal, or chicken (kharu yogurt cheese, 62 gos), 112–15 bell peppers Brassica spp., 304, 305 khima -stuffed vegetables, 121 breads, 42–48 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 chapatis, 44–45 besan (chickpea flour), 293 papads, 47–48 beverages. See drinks puris, 45–46 bhaji. See also greens; specific greens breakfasts, 50, 83, 257 bhaji ma gos, 114 bottle gourd jam, 239–40 bhaji par ida, 191 khichri with poached egg, 167 bhaji with peas, 192 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 "express" bhaji, 192–93 Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 bhajjias, 57–58 menus, 282, 283 bheja na katles, 152–54 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 bhel puri, 67–72 tomato rice with sausage and egg, 170 bhel puri potato salad, 69 vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257– bhida. See okra 59 bhida par ida, 90 Breski, Randal, 169 bhujelu gos, 126–27 Brussels sprouts, Thanksgiving, 190–91 birthday breakfasts, 257 Buchanania latifolia, 263, 294 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 Bunium bulbocastanum, B. persicum, 295. See also black vermicelli and sweet yogurt, 257–59 cumin birthday celebrations, 9, 257 burgers, Parsi, 118–19 biryanis, 163–64, 173 buriyani, 198 Nana's biryani, 173–76 eggplant (vengna ni buriyani), 198 bitter cucumber. See bitter gourd pumpkin or bottle gourd, 199 bitter gourd, 290–91 butter. See also ghee ragout, 195 ajwain, for corn on the cob, 51 bitter melon. See bitter gourd Kenya masala butter, for corn on the cob, 187–88 black cardamom, 292 black cumin, 37, 295 cabbage black-eyed peas, 188, 291 khima -stuffed vegetables, 121 black-eyed pea stew, 184 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 trotters with, 156–58 salad, with lime and mint, 214–15 black pepper. See pepper, black Cajanus cajan, 306. See also pigeon peas blood oranges cake citrus ice, 248 cardamom cake, 266–67 fruit juice jelly, 244 rose geranium cardamom cake, 267 bloody mehra, 272 trifle cake, 252 Bombay curry, 132–35 calf brain cutlets, 152–54 Bombay duck, 94 calf liver Bombay food and markets Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 breads and pastries, 43, 51, 260, 261 calf tongue clubs and restaurants, 20, 178, 211, 278 lentils and (variation), 180–82 fish, 93–94 salted (variation), 156 fruits and vegetables, 185, 211, 212, 242 cane vinegar, 314, 315 meat, 112 caponata, Parsi, 207 panir, 63 Capsicum annuum v. annuum, 293. See also chiles street food, 57, 67–68 caramel Bombay, Parsis in, 5–7 cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 Bombay-style "mutton" sandwich, 126 caramelized farro, 169 bor. See jujubes caramelized fried rice, 168–69 bottle gourd, 239, 291 caraway, 291 bottle gourd buriyani, 199 cardamom, 291–92, 305. See also black cardamom bottle gourd jam, 239–40 cardamom cake, 266–67 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 green curry with vegetables, 137 cardamom shortbread, 261–63 brain cutlets, 152–54 carnitas, Parsi, 127 braises. See also curries; stews carrot(s) braised greens, 191–92 and fresh coriander soup, 74 braised lamb shanks, 125 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 carrot(s) (continued) chicken (continued) and raisin pickle, 239 soups: mulligatawny, 81–82; my get-well soup, 77– and raisin salad, 216–17 78 Russian salad, 213–14 stewed with potatoes, 115–16 soup, with ginger, 74 chicken hearts, in Parsi anticuchos, 160 wedding stew, 205–6 chicken livers Carum carvi, 291 green masala, 151–52 Carum copticum, 289. See also ajwain Parsi pâté, 60–62 cashews, 292 chickpea flour cashew cream chicken, 139–40 sev, 70–71 crisp cashew wafers, 260–61 chickpeas, 292–93 roasted, with ajwain, 50–51 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– cassia, 292, 294 80 cassia leaf, 292 seared, 54 cauliflower split chickpea stew, 182–84 fritters, 57 Child, Julia, 162 gratin, 190 chile greens green curry with vegetables, 137 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 meat stewed with (cauliflower ma gos ), 114 chiles, 293 Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 chile pickle, 236–37 one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 hot green chutney, 72 vegetable curry, 135 chilly powder, 294 cayenne pepper(s), 293, 294 Chinese dates. See jujubes channa. See chickpeas Chinese okra. See ridge gourd channa dal, 292–93. See also chickpeas chironji nut, 263, 294 channa ni dar, 43, 182–84 cholai bhaji. See amaranth chapatis (rotlis), 42, 43 chow chow. See chayote recipe, 44–45 chutney(s), 227–34. See also pickle(s) chard about, 72, 221, 222; sources, 315 for fish parcels, 102 chutney fried fish, 154 for patrel, 54, 56 date and tamarind, 230–31; bhel puri potato salad quick-cooked greens, 192–93 with, 69 charoli (chironji nut), 263, 294 fish in banana-leaf parcels with, 100–102 charvela ida, 84–85 fruit, 233 chaura. See black-eyed peas; long beans green: green chutney soufflé, 88–89; hot green chayote chutney, 72; Parsi green chutney, 227–28; vegetable curry, 135 potato cakes stuffed with (variation), 123 cheese, 51 green mango: fresh, 229; Major Ordle's, 229–30 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 rhubarb, 233–34 cheese fritters, 58 sweet tamarind chutney, 71–72 creamy panir, 63–65 tomato, Parsi, 231–32 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 Cicer arietinum, 292. See also chickpeas Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 cilantro. See coriander leaf yogurt cheese, 62 Cinnamomum cassia, 292 Chez Panisse, 190, 264 Cinnamomum zeylanicum, 292, 294 chhaas, 277 cinnamon, 292, 294 chicken, 112, 137 Citrus aurantifolia, 302. See also lime in almond, walnut, or pistachio gravy, 140 Citrus maxima, 307. See also pomelos with apricots, 141–42 clams Bombay curry, 132–35 green curry with seafood, 137 cashew cream chicken, 139–40 seafood moli, 106 dhansak with, 180 shellfish soup, 80 Goan rich stew with vegetables, 129–31 cloves, 294 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 cluster beans. See guar beans green curry, 135–37 Coccinia grandis, 313. See also tindola ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; cocktail, white rum and pomegranate, 275–76 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22; coconut, 39–42, 294–95, 315, 316 Parsiburgers or meat loaf, 118–19 carrot and raisin salad with, 216–17 Irish stew, 131–32 chutney, fish in banana-leaf parcels with, 10 Mother's favorite (chicken maivahlans ), 144–47 corn, green mango, and coconut salad, 217–18 Nana's biryani, 173–76 to grate, 40–41 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 long beans with, 189 with potatoes, 138–39 Parsi green chutney, 227 savory braised, 112–15; with aromatics, 137–39 pomelo and coconut salad, 219–20 coconut milk, 40, 294, 295. See also curries curries fish or shrimp in, 105–6 about coconut milk for, 41 Goan rich pork stew with vegetables, 129–31 Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 Kerala stew, 132 Bombay curry, 132–35 kid stewed with potatoes, 115–16 green curry, 135–37 to make, 41 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 mulligatawny, 81–82 roasted masala curry, 134–35 prepared types, 41–42, 295 curry leaf, 296, 316 coconut vinegar, 314 pumpkin crescents with curry leaves, 197 coconut water, 40, 41, 271, 295 custard Cocos nucifera, 294. See also coconut entries cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 coffee, 270 Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 Coleus amboinicus, 289. See also Cuban oregano cutlets, 116–17 collards brain cutlets, 152–54 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, 300. See also guar beans Thanksgiving leafy greens, 191 Cymbopogon citratus, 301. See also lemongrass Colocasia esculenta, 312–13. See also taro confit, allium, 186–87 daggar ka phul, 38 eggs on onions, 90 dahi. See yogurt cookies dahi ni kaddhi, 78–79 cardamom shortbread, 261–63 daikon radish pickle, quick, 53 crisp cashew wafers, 260–61 dals, 176–84 giant cookie, 263 about, 161–62, 296; types, 182–83, 292–93, 302, cooking techniques, 32–33 304, 306 coriander leaf (cilantro), 295 everyday dal, 161–62, 176–78 carrot and fresh coriander soup, 74 lentils and lamb tongue, 180–82 in kachumbars : simple onion kachumbar, 223; sweet- potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– sour kachumbar, 223–24 80 Parsi green chutney, 227 rice and lentil pilaf (khichri), 162, 165–67 Parsi scrambled eggs, 85–86 split chickpea stew, 182–84 coriander seed, 295 dar. See dals Coriandrum sativum, 295. See also coriander leaf darakh. See raisins corn daram. See pomegranates corn, green mango, and coconut salad, 217–18 dates, 296 on the cob: ajwain butter for, 51; Kenya masala date and tamarind chutney, 230–31; bhel puri potato butter for, 187–88 salad with, 69 crab, 94 date pastries, 264–65 gratin, 95–96 Indio date shake, 277–78 pomelo and crab salad, 220 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 salad, 94–95 sweet tamarind chutney, 71–72 scrambled eggs with seafood, 85 dates, Chinese. See jujubes cranberries De Souza, Andrew, 20, 106, 122, 133 fruit chutney, 233 deep-frying, 33, 314 cream. See also fool Desai, Usha, 234 cashew cream chicken, 139–40 desserts. See sweets Mother's favorite chicken, 145–47 dhana (coriander seed), 295 crisps, cheese and almond, 51–52 dhana jiru, 296, 297 Crocus sativus, 310. See also saffron Parsi omelet with, 86–87 crudités, Parsi, 53 recipe, 38–39 Cuban oregano ("ajwain" leaf), 289 dhansak, 8, 162, 178–80 fritters, 57 dhansak masala, 297 cucumber, bitter. See bitter gourd recipe, 38–39 cucumber(s) dill, 297 and ginger salad, 218 braised greens, 191–92 Parsi crudités, 53 dodhi. See bottle gourd raita, 225 dodhi no morambo, 239–40 simple onion kachumbar, 223 Dolichos lablab, 299. See also hyacinth beans stir-fried long beans with, 188–89 dried fruit, 296. See also specific types cucuzza, 239, 291. See also bottle gourd chicken with (variation), 142 cumin, 295–96. See also black cumin Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 hot weather yogurt drink with, 277 drinks, 269–79 rice with, 164 about, 269–71 Cuminum cyminum, 295. See also cumin bloody mehra, 272 Curcuma amada, 303. See also mango ginger fresh lime soda, 273 Curcuma longa, 313. See also turmeric fresh limeade, 272–73 drinks (continued) elcho (black cardamom), 292 hot weather yogurt drink, 277 elephant's foot yam, 205, 298 Indio date shake, 277–78 Elettaria cardamomum, 291. See also cardamom jardalu shake, 250 equipment, 27–32 mango drink (aam ras), 243–44 for chapatis, 45 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 for coconut grating, 40–41 Parsi tea with mint and lemongrass, 276, 301–2 for frying, 33 pomegranate and white rum cocktail, 275–76 for making panir, 64 pomegranate kir royale, 275 sources, 316 pomegranate spritzer, 274–75 everyday dal, 161–62, 176–78 tomato and orange drink, Mani Masi's, 271–72 "express" bhaji, 192–93 watermelon drink, 273–74 drumsticks, 297 Fabrizio, Margaret, 263 green curry with vegetables, 137 faluda, 278–79 dry-frying, 33 farro duck legs caramelized, 169 braised with little onions, 148–49 mixed rice and grains, 164 Goan rich stew with vegetables, 129–31 fava beans, seared, 54 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 fennel seed, 298 dudh pak puri, 255–57 fenugreek leaf, 298 dudhi. See bottle gourd braised greens, 191–92 duggar ka phul, 38 meat cooked with greens, 114–15 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– edamame, seared, 54 80 eggplant, 297–98 fenugreek seed, 298 fritters, 57 Ferula assafoetida, 290. See also asafetida Goa curry with vegetables, 107 field beans. See hyacinth beans green curry with vegetables, 137 figs, dried khima -stuffed vegetables, 121 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 masala vegetables, 98 Firoza's khichri, 166–67 one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 fish, 93–94 papri claypot stew, 208–9 about grilling, 97 Parsi caponata, 207 Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 in banana-leaf parcels, 100–102 pickle, 235–36 chutney fried fish, 154 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– in coconut milk (fish moli), 105–6 80 fish balls, 99–100 smoky eggplant salad, 218 fish mulligatawny, 82 stew, 198 fish soup with Parsi-style rouille, 79–80 vegetable curry, 135 green curry with seafood, 137 vegetable patia, 109–10 Irene's fabulous fish cakes, 98–99 eggs, 83–91 masala seafood, 96–98 about, 83–84 seafood ragout, 108–10 creamy scrambled eggs, 84–85 simple seafood stew, 102–3 egg curry, 135 smoked fish spread, 60 eggs on anything, 89–90 wedding-style, 103–4 eggs on potato chips, 90–91 Fish Forever (Johnson), 94 eggs on tindola, 196 Foeniculum vulgare, 298 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 fool green chutney soufflé, 88–89 jardalu, 250 green curry with, 137 mango, 244 khichri with, 167 fried rice, caramelized, 168–69 Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 fritters Mother's "Italian" eggs, 58–59; "Italian" egg salad, patrel fritters, 56 59 vegetable or cheese (bhajjias), 57–58 omelet soufflé, 87–88 fruit. See also dried fruit; specific fruits one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 as dessert, 242 Parsi omelet, 86–87 fruit chutney, 233 Parsi scrambled eggs (akuri), 85–86; potato cakes ices, 247; citrus, 248; melon, 248–49; pomegranate, stuffed with (variation), 123 247–48 poached, tongue with, 156 khir (milk pudding) with, 255 on tindola, 196 rava (semolina pudding) with, 259 tomato rice with sausage and, 170 frying elchi. See cardamom oils for, 33, 314 elchi custard, 253–54 techniques, 33 fudina. See mint green chutney hot, 72 gajar nu salad, 216–17 Parsi, 227–28; green chutney sandwiches, 228; green garam masala, Parsi, 37 chutney soufflé, 88–89 Garcinia indica, 301. See also kokam potato cakes stuffed with (variation), 123 garlic, 299 green curry, 135–37 ginger-garlic paste, 36, 112, 300 green garlic garlic, green akuri (Parsi scrambled eggs) with, 86 akuri (Parsi scrambled eggs) with, 86 allium confit, 186–87; eggs on, 90 allium confit, 186–87; eggs on, 90 green mango(es), 228, 303 get-well soup bhel puri with, 68–69 mine, 77–78 chutney: fresh, 229; Major Ordle's, 229–30 Mother's, 76–77 corn, green mango, and coconut salad, 217–18 gharab no patio, 109 kachumbar with, 224 ghari, 264 morambo (jam), 240 ghee, 34–35, 299, 313, 314 Parsi crudités, 53 to make, 35 green masala giant cookie, 263 chicken livers in, 151–52 gingelly oil, 37, 310 green curry, 135 ginger, 77, 299. See also mango ginger masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 carrot soup with, 74 green onions cucumber and ginger salad, 218 allium confit, 186–87; eggs on, 90 fresh turmeric and ginger pickle, 234–35; Krishna's omelet soufflé, 87–88 breakfast, 65–66 Parsi scrambled eggs, 85–86 ginger-garlic paste, 36, 112, 300 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 my get-well soup, 77–78 green peppercorn yogurt cheese, 62 seared ginger raita, 226–27 green salad, 212–13 tomato and ginger infusion, 75–76 greenpeas ma gos, 115 vinaigrette, chopped watercress salad with, 216 greens. See also salad(s); specific greens Goa curry, Andrew's, 106–8 braised, 191–92 Goan meat or poultry stew, 127–29 meat cooked with, 114–15 Goan rich pork stew with vegetables, 129–31 pomelo salad with, 220 goat, 112, 113. See also kid quick-cooked, 192–93 brain cutlets, 152–54 Thanksgiving leafy greens, 191 green curry, 135–37 grilled dishes hearts, Parsi anticuchos, 160 about grilling fish, 97 liver, Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 grilled lamb lollipops, 123–24 masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 grilled Thanksgiving turkey, 149–51 savory braised, 112–15 masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 goat's milk yogurt cheese, 62 masala seafood, 96–98 Gobhai, Mehlli, 66, 98, 252 Parsi anticuchos, 160 gold leaf, 311, 316 Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 gor. See jaggery smoky masala grilled quail, 147–48 gor amli nu kachumbar, 223–24 twice-cooked grilled lamb or kid, 126–27 gotli pao, 43 The Grilling Book (Sinnes), 150 gourds. See also specific types guar beans (guarphalli), 300 types, 290–91, 309, 311–12, 313 guar bean ragout, 195 grains. See also farro; rice mixed rice and grains, 164 Hambro, Nathalie, 124 Grandmother's pulao, 170–73 hash yellow potatoes, Parsi, 202–4 grapefruit, 307 eggs on, 90, 204 citrus ice, 248 hazelnut wafers, crisp (variation), 260–61 grapes, 308 hing. See asafetida grapeseed oil, 33, 314 honey, 300, 312 gratin Hopkinson, Simon, 51 cauliflower, 190 hors d'oeuvres. See beginnings crab, 95–96 hot green chutney, 72 gravy hot weather yogurt drink, 277 almond, walnut, or pistachio, chicken in, 140 Hunza apricots. See apricots cashew cream chicken, 139–40 hyacinth beans, 208, 299 tomato, 118 papri claypot stew, 208–9 green beans Russian salad, 213–14 ice cream, 254, 316 green chiles, 293 cardamom caramel custard (variation), 254 ice cream (continued) Kanga, Firoza, 91, 135, 139, 166 jardalu, 251 karela. See bitter gourd milk shakes: Indio date shake, 277–78; New Year's kari patta. See curry leaf milk shake, 278–79 kasa ma gos, 114 ice(s), 247–49 kasa par ida, 89–90 citrus, 248 katles kavab, 100, 116–17 melon, 248–49 bheja na katles, 152–54 pomegranate, 247–48 kolmi na kavab, 99–100 tomato, 76 kavab. See katles kavab tomato-orange, 272 kebabs, 116 Illicium verum, 312 kedgeree, 165 Indio date shake, 277–78 kefir cheese, 62 infusion, tomato and ginger, 75–76 Kenya masala butter for corn on the cob, 187–88 ingredients kera ma gos, 114 basics, 34–48 kera nu raitu, 225 glossary, 289–314 kera par ida, 90, 204–5 sources, 315–16 Kerala stew, 132 Ipomoea batatas, 312. See also sweet potatoes keri. See mangoes Irene's fabulous fish cakes, 98–99 keri ni chatni, 229–30 Irish stew, 131–32 kesar. See saffron "Italian" eggs, Mother's, 58–59 ketchup, tomato, homemade, 232–33 "Italian" egg salad, 59 khajur. See dates ivy gourd. See tindola khajur ni chatni, 230–31 khajur ni ghari, 264–65 Jaffrey, Madhur, 188 khan. See sugar jaggery, 34, 72, 300 khara ras chaval, 114 jaiphal. See nutmeg kharak, 296. See also dates jam (morambo), 239 khari machhi, 79, 102–3 bottle gourd, 239–40 khari marghi, 137–39 green mango, 240 kharia, 43, 156–58 pineapple, 240 kharu gos, 112–15 Jamsetjee, Mary, 54 khaskhas (poppy seed), 307 jardalu. See apricots khatta-mittha tamota, 199–200 jardalu ma marghi, 141–42 khichri, 162, 165–67 javintri (mace), 303 Firoza's, 166–67 Jeejeebhoy, Rustom, 278 Mother’s, 165–66 jellies khima, 119–21 fruit juice jelly, 244 khima na pattis, 121–22 jellied Pineau des Charentes, 245 khir, 254–55 tomato aspic, 76 kid, 113 jicama dhansak with meat or chicken, 180 Parsi crudités, 53 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 jiru. See cumin Grandmother's pulao, 170–73 Johnson, Paul, 94, 97 green curry, 135–37 jujubes, 301 Irish stew, 131–32 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 leg of, braised, 124–25; Bombay-style "mutton" sandwich, 126 kachi keri ni chatni, 229 Mother's get-well soup, 76–77 kachi tarkari, 53 Nana's biryani, 173–76 kachumbar, 221–22 stewed with potatoes (kid papeta ma gos), 115–16 onion, simple, 223 twice-cooked grilled kid, 126–27 sweet-sour, 223–24 kidneys, 158 kaju. See cashews masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 kaju makrum, 260–61 Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 kaju ni gravy ma marghi, 139–40 kir or kir royale, pomegranate, 275 kakri nu raitu, 225 kitchen equipment. See equipment kala jira (black cumin), 37, 295 kofta, 116 kale kokam, 108, 301 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 kokam curry, 108 Thanksgiving leafy greens, 191 kolmi na kavab, 99–100 kaleji no pate, 60–62 kolmi no sahas, 103–4 kamal kakri. See lotus root kopru, 294. See also coconut kanda ma batak, 148–49 kothmir. See coriander leaf kanda nu raitu, 226 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 kando. See onion(s) labneh, 62 lobster(s), 94 lagan no sahas, 103–4 scrambled eggs with seafood, 85 lagan nu achar, 237–39 lollipops, lamb, grilled, 123–24 lagan nu istu, 205–6 long beans, 302 lagan nu kastar, 253 with coconut, 189 Lagenaria siceraria, 291. See also bottle gourd green curry with vegetables, 137 Lalkaka, Tehmina, 58 stir-fried, 188–89 lamb with yogurt, 189 Bombay curry, 132–35 loofah gourd. See sponge gourd brain cutlets, 152–54 lotus root, 302–3 dhansak with meat or chicken, 180 fritters, 57 Goan rich stew with vegetables, 129–31 quick lotus-root pickle, 53 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 Luffa acutangula, 309. See also ridge gourd Grandmother's pulao, 170–73 Luffa cylindrica, 193–94, 311–12. See also sponge gourd green curry, 135–37 grilled lamb lollipops, 123–24 mace, 303 ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; madh. See honey khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22 mag. See mung beans hearts, Parsi anticuchos, 160 Major Ordle's green mango chutney, 229–30 Irish stew, 131–32 Malabari, P. M., 243 leg of, braised, 124–25; Bombay-style "mutton" malungay, 297 sandwich, 126 Maneckshaw, Bhicoo, 37, 103 liver and kidneys: masala grilled liver and kidneys, Mangifera indica, 303. See also mangoes 159–60; Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 mango ginger, 234–35, 303–4 Mother's get-well soup, 76–77 and ginger pickle, 234–35 Nana's biryani, 173–76 mangoes, 242–44, 303, 316. See also mangoes, green Parsi carnitas, 127 mango drink or fool, 243–44 savory braised, 112–15 ripe, for dessert, 243–44 shanks: braised, 125; savory braised, 112–15; stewed mangoes, green, 228, 303, 316 with potatoes, 115–16 bhel puri with, 68–69 stewed with potatoes, 115–16 corn, green mango, and coconut salad, 217–18 tongue: lentils and, 180–82; salted (variation), 156 fresh green mango chutney, 229 twice-cooked grilled lamb, 126–27 green mango morambo (jam), 240 Langlet, Ragnhild, 266 kachumbar with, 224 lasan. See garlic Major Ordle's green mango chutney, 229–30 lauki. See bottle gourd Parsi crudités, 53 lavang (cloves), 294 mangosteen, 301 leeks Mani Masi's tomato and orange drink, 271–72 allium confit, 186–87; eggs on, 90 Manpasand Mishtaan (cookbook), 11–12, 13 legumes. See beans; dals; peas; specific types marcha, 293 lemongrass, 276, 301–2 marcha ni bhukhi (chilly powder), 294 Parsi tea with mint and, 276, 301–2 mari na dana. See pepper, black Lens culinaris, 302. See also lentils masala butter, Kenyan, for corn on the cob, 187–88 lentils, 302. See also dals; red lentils masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 and lamb tongue, 180–82 masala kaju, 50–51 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 8, 162, masala na kaleji bukka, 159–60 178–80 masala ni dar, 178 rice and lentil pilaf (khichri), 162, 165–67 masala seafood, 96–98 lichen, 38 masala vegetables, 98 lila marcha. See chiles masala(s), 36–39 lili chai. See lemongrass about, 36, 304, 310; frying, 32–33; roasting, 134–35, lili chatni, 227–28 142–43; sources, 315 lili kari, 135–37 dhansak masala, 38–39, 297 limbu. See lime green: chicken livers in, 151–52; for masala grilled limbu pani, 272–73 liver and kidneys, 159–60; green curry lime, 81, 302 masala, 135 cabbage salad with mint and, 214–15 Parsi garam masala, 37 fresh lime soda, 273 sambhar masala, 37–38, 310 fresh limeade, 272–73 masoor, 43 watermelon drink with, 273–74 masur, 180, 302. See also lentils liver(s), 158 masur ma jib, 180–82 chicken: green masala, 151–52; Parsi pâté, 60–61 masur ni dar, masur dal, 302. See also red lentils masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 matth (yogurt cheese), 62 Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 McCullough, Fran, 58, 90 mint (continued) meat and poultry, 111–60. See also specific types Parsi tea with lemongrass and, 276, 301–2 about, 111–12 mitthu dahi, 257 Bombay curry, 132–35 vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257– brain cutlets, 152–54 59 braised leg of lamb or kid, 124–26 mixed grill, Parsi, 158–59 cashew cream chicken, 139–40 moli, fish or seafood, 105–6 chicken livers in green masala, 151–52 Momordica chantia, 290. See also bitter gourd chicken with apricots, 141–42 mora dar, 161–62, 176–78 cutlets or meatballs, 116–17 mora dar chaval, 176, 177 dhansak with meat or chicken, 180 morambo, 239 duck legs braised with little onions, 148–49 bottle gourd (dodhi no morambo), 239–40 Goan meat or poultry stew (vindaloo), 127–29 green mango, 240 Goan rich pork stew with vegetables, 129–31 pineapple, 240 Grandmother's pulao, 170–73 Moringa oleifera, 297. See also drumsticks green curry, 135–37 Mother's famous jardalu trifle, 251–53 grilled lamb lollipops, 123–24 Mother's favorite chicken, 144–47 grilled Thanksgiving turkey, 149–51 Mother's get-well soup, 76–77 Irish stew, 131–32 Mother's "Italian" eggs, 58–59 khima, 119–21; khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–23 Mother's khichri, 165–66 kid, lamb, veal, or chicken stewed with potatoes, Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 115–16 mulligatawny, 81–82 lentils and lamb tongue, 180–82 Mumbai. See Bombay masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 mung beans, 304 Mother's favorite chicken, 144–47 everyday dal, 176–78 Nana's biryani, 173–76 Firoza's khichri, 166–67 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 Mother's khichri, 165–66 Parsi anticuchos, 160 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– Parsi carnitas, 127 80 Parsi meat loaf, 119 mung dal. See mung beans Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 Murraya koenigii, 296. See also curry leaf Parsiburgers, 118–19 Musa sapientum, M. paradisiaca, 306. See also plantains salted tongue, 154–56 mussels savory braised chicken with aromatics, 137–39 green curry with seafood, 137 savory braised lamb, goat, veal, or chicken, 112–15 seafood moli, 106 smoky masala grilled quail, 147–48 shellfish soup, 80 trotters with black-eyed peas, 156–58 mustard powder, 304 twice-cooked grilled lamb or kid, 126–27 mustard seed, 304, 305 meat loaf, Parsi, 119 mutton, 112. See also goat; kid; lamb meatballs, 116–17 Bombay-style "mutton" sandwich, 126 green curry with, 137 My Favourite Recipes (Albless), 64 papri claypot stew, 208–9 Myristica fragrans, 303, 305 med maeng lak, 290. See also basil seed Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 nag kesar, 38 melon Nana nu pulao, 170–73 quick watermelon pickle, 53 Nana's biryani, 173–76 summer melon and rose water dessert soup, 245–46 nankhatai, 261–63 watermelon drink, 273–74 nariyal, 294. See also coconut entries melon, bitter. See bitter gourd nariyal pani. See coconut water melon, winter Navjot celebrations, 9, 22, 237 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 Nelumbium nelumbo, N. nucifera, 302. See also lotus root Mentha spicata, 304. See also mint New Year's celebrations, 9, 23 menus, 281–88 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 methi (fenugreek seed), 298 nibbles. See beginnings methi bhaji. See fenugreek leaf Nicholls, Amy, 204–5 meva, 296 nigella seed (Nigella sativa), 295 milk nut oils, 212–13 Irish stew, 131–32 nutmeg, 303, 305 kid stewed with potatoes, 115–16 nuts. See also specific types milk pudding, 254–55 Mother's favorite chicken, 145–47 sweet milk with semolina puris, 255–57 nut wafers, 260–61 milk shakes. See shakes mint, 304 Ocimum basilicum, 290. See also basil seed cabbage salad with lime and, 214–15 oils, 35, 313–14 Parsi green chutney, 227 for frying, 33, 314 oils (continued) Parsi cooking/foodways, 2, 8–12, 22–26. See also specific for salads, 212–13 foods sesame oil, 37, 310, 314 in author's family, 12, 14, 18–20 okra, 305 Parsi Food and Customs (Maneckshaw), 37, 103 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 Parsi history, 2–7 meat stewed with, 114 Particular Delights (Hambro), 124 sautéed, 199; eggs on, 90 parval, 311. See also snake gourd shad roe and okra patia, 109 pastes vegetable curry, 135 ginger-garlic paste, 36, 112, 300 vegetable patia, 109–10 masala pastes, 32–33, 304 okra, Chinese. See ridge gourd pastries, date, 264–65 olive oil, 212 pâté, Parsi, 60–62 omelet, Parsi, 86–87 patia, 108–10 omelet soufflé, 87–88 patra ni machhi, 100–102 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 patrel, 54–56 onion(s), 32, 305–6 pattis, 121–22 allium confit, 186–87 khima -stuffed, 121–22 duck legs braised with little onions, 148–49 stuffed with akuri or green chutney, 123 eggs on, 90 pea shoots fritters, 57 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 kachumbars : simple, 223; sweet-sour, 223–24 peaches Parsi hash yellow potatoes, 202–4; eggs on, 90, 204 fruit chutney, 233 Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 peanut oil, 33, 314 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 peas. See also black-eyed peas; pigeon peas Parsi scrambled eggs, 85–86 bhaji (braised greens) with, 192 raita, 226 meat cooked with greens, 114–15 onions, green meat stewed with, 115 allium confit, 186–87; eggs on, 90 Russian salad, 213–14 omelet soufflé, 87–88 seared, 53–54 Parsi scrambled eggs, 85–86 wedding stew, 205–6 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 pecan wafers, crisp (variation), 260–61 oranges pepper, black, 77, 306 citrus ice, 248 my get-well soup, 77–78 fruit juice jelly, 244 perfect plain rice, 162–64 Mani Masi's tomato and orange drink, 271–72 Phoenix dactylifera, 296. See also dates tomato-orange ice, 272 pickle(s). See also chutney(s) Oryza sativa, 308. See also rice about, 221, 222; sources, 315 carrot and raisin, 239 padval, 311. See also snake gourd chile, 236–37 pakoras, 57 eggplant, 235–36 panir, 63–64 fresh turmeric and ginger, 234–35; Krishna's cheese fritters, 58 breakfast, 65–66 creamy, to make, 64–65 lotus-root, watermelon, or daikon, quick, 53 papads ( papadams ), 47–48 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 Papaver somniferum, 307 pigeon peas, 306 papenas. See pomelos everyday dal, 176–78 papeta, papeto. See potato(es) potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– papeta ma gos, 114 80 kid papeta ma gos, 115–16 pig's trotters with black-eyed peas, 156–58 papeta ma marghi, 138–39 pilaf, rice and lentil (khichri), 165–67 papeta na wafer, 201–2 pineapple papeta par ida, 90, 204 Parsi crudités, 53 papri (hyacinth beans), 299 pineapple morambo (jam), 240 papri claypot stew, 208–9 Pineau des Charentes, jellied, 245 Paris Bakery, 51, 260 Piper nigrum, 306. See also pepper, black Parmelia perlata, 38 pistachio gravy, chicken in, 140 Parsi ceremony/ritual, 9, 11, 23 plantains, 306 almonds in, 289–90 baked, 205 coconut in, 39 fried, 204; eggs on, 90, 204–5 eggs in, 84 meat with, 114 fish in, 93 Plectranthus amboinicus, 289. See also Cuban oregano pomegranates in, 306–7 plums raisins in, 308 fruit chutney, 233 rose water in, 309 poha, 309. See also pohua sweets in, 241–42 pohua, 66, 308–9 pummelos. See pomelos Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 pumpkin pomegranate molasses, 307 fritters, 57 pomegranates, 306–7 masala vegetables, 98 fruit juice jelly, 244 one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 pomegranate and white rum cocktail, 275–76 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– pomegranate ice, 247–48 80 pomegranate kir royale, 275 pumpkin buriyani, 199 pomegranate spritzer, 274–75 pumpkin crescents with curry leaves, 197 pomegranate syrup, 275 vegetable patia, 109–10 pomelos, 219–20, 307 Punica granatum, 306. See also pomegranates pomelo and coconut salad, 219–20 puris pomfret, 94, 101, 103 bhel puri, 67–72 poppy seed, 307 commercial, 72 pora, Parsi, 86–87 flat puris, 70 pork, 112 puffy puris, 45–46 Goan rich pork stew with vegetables, 129–31 semolina, sweet milk with, 255–57 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 sev batata puri, 68–72 ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22; quail, smoky masala grilled, 147–48 Parsiburgers or meat loaf, 118–19 quinoa hearts, Parsi anticuchos, 160 mixed rice and grains, 164 Parsi carnitas, 127 tongue: lentils and (variation), 180–82; salted ragout (variation), 156 bitter gourd, 195 trotters with black-eyed peas, 156–58 guar bean, 195 twice-cooked grilled pork, 126–27 ridge gourd, with shrimp, 195 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 8, 162, 178–80 ridge or snake gourd, 193–95; eggs on, 90 potato chips (wafers), 201–2 seafood, 108–10 eggs on, 90–91 tindola, 196 potato(es), 308 rai (mustard powder), 304 aleti paleti with, 152 rai na dana (mustard seed), 305 angel-hair potatoes, 200–201 raisins, 308 bhel puri potato salad, 69 carrot and raisin pickle, 239 chicken with, 138–39 carrot and raisin salad, 216–17 fish soup with Parsi-style rouille, 79–80 Mother's favorite chicken, 145–47 fritters, 57 Parsi tomato chutney, 231–33 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–23 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 kid stewed with, 115–16 raita(s), 224–27 meat stewed with, 114 about, 221, 222, 224 Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 banana, 225 papri claypot stew, 208–9 cucumber, 225 Parsi hash yellow potatoes, 202–4; eggs on, 90, 204 onion, 226 Parsi shepherd's pie, 123 seared ginger, 226–27 potato wafers (chips), 201–2 tindola, 196 Russian salad, 213–14 ratalu. See sweet potatoes sev batata puri, 68–72 ratatouille, Parsi, 206–7 wedding stew, 205–6 eggs on, 90 poultry. See meat and poultry; specific types rava, 259–60, 310. See also semolina prawns. See shrimp red chiles, 293. See also chilly powder pressed rice. See pohua red lentils, 302 prunes everyday dal, 176–78 chicken with (variation), 142 Mother's khichri, 165–66 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– prune trifle, 252–53 80 Prunus amygdalus, 289. See also almonds red masala Prunus armeniaca ‘Hunza’, 141, 249, 301. See also masala grilled liver and kidneys, 159–60 apricots relishes, 221–22. See also chutney(s); pickle(s); raita(s) pudding. See also custard simple onion kachumbar, 223 milk pudding, 254–55 sweet-sour kachumbar, 223–24 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 rhubarb chutney, 233–34 sweet milk with semolina puris, 255–57 Riboud, Krishna, 65, 235 pulao, 163–64 rice, 161–76. See also pohua Grandmother's, 170–73 about, 161–62, 163–64, 308, 309 simplest, 167–68 caramelized fried rice, 168–69 rice (continued) sandwiches (continued) Grandmother's pulao, 170–73 "Italian" egg salad, 59 milk pudding with, 254–55 smoked fish, 60 Nana's biryani, 173–76 tongue, 156 perfect plain rice, 162–64 Sanghvi, Sarla, 37 rice and lentil pilaf (khichri), 162, 165–67 sarko. See vinegar simplest pulao, 167–68 sau badam ni kari, 142–44 tomato rice, 169–70 scrambled eggs rice, pressed. See pohua creamy, 84–85 rice vinegar, 314 Parsi (akuri), 85–86; potato cakes stuffed with, 123 ridge gourd, 309 seafood, 93–110. See also specific types green curry with vegetables, 137 Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 chutney fried fish, 154 ragout of, 193–95; eggs on, 90 crab gratin, 95–96 River Café, 197 crab salad, 94–95 roasted masala curry, 134–35 fish in banana-leaf parcels, 100–102 rolls, taro-leaf, 54–56 fish in coconut milk, 105–6 rose geranium cardamom cake, 267 green curry with, 137 rose syrup, 309, 316 Irene's fabulous fish cakes, 98–99 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 masala seafood, 96–98 rose water, 309, 316 pomelo and crab salad, 220 summer melon and rose water dessert soup, 245–46 ridge gourd ragout with shrimp, 195 rost matan, 124–26 scrambled eggs with, 85 rotlis (chapatis), 42, 43 seafood ragout, 108–10 recipe, 44–45 shellfish soup, 80 rouille, Parsi-style, fish soup with, 79–80 shrimp, squid, or fish balls, 99–100 rum simple seafood stew, 102–3 pomegranate and white rum cocktail, 275–76 wedding-style fish or shrimnp, 103–4 Russian salad, 213–14 seasoning, final (vaghar), 32, 177, 178, 305 sekta ni singh. See drumsticks Sabavala, Shirin, 87, 88 semolina, 310 saffron, 310, 316. See also snake saffron cardamom shortbread, 261–62 sakar. See sugar giant cookie, 263 salad(s), 211–20 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 about, 211–12 semolina puris, sweet milk with, 255–57 beet, 214 sesame oil, 37, 310, 314 bhel puri potato salad, 69 sesame seed, 311 cabbage, with lime and mint, 214–15 Sesamum orientale, S. indicum, 311 carrot and raisin, 216–17 sev, 254, 311 chopped watercress, with ginger vinaigrette, 216 commercial, 69, 72 cold tongue salad, 156 to make, 70–71 corn, green mango, and coconut, 217–18 milk pudding with, 254–55 crab, 94–95 sev batata puri, 68–72 crab and pomelo, 220 sev dahi (vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday cucumber and ginger, 218 breakfast), 257–59 green, 212–13 sev-gantia, 49, 71 "Italian" egg salad, 59 shad roe patia, 109 pomelo salads, 219–20 shah jira (caraway), 291 Russian salad, 213–14 shakes smoky eggplant salad, 218 Indio date shake, 277–78 watercress and turnip, 215–16 jardalu shake, 250 sali, 200–201 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 salit, 211. See also salad(s) shallow-frying, 33 salmon sharbat, 247, 270 jumbo patra ni machhi, 101–2 shellfish. See seafood; specific types salt, 34 shepherd's pie, Parsi, 123 salted tongue, 154–56 sherbets, 247. See also ice(s) sambhar masala, 310 Shirvani, Mehdi, 245–46 recipe, 37–38 shortbread, cardamom, 261–63 samosas shrimp, 94 khima samosas, 121 Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 sandwiches green curry with seafood, 137 Bombay-style "mutton" sandwich, 126 masala seafood, 96–98 with brain cutlets, 152–53 ridge gourd ragout with, 195 green chutney, 228 seafood moli, 106 shrimp (continued) squid (continued) seafood ragout, 108–10 patia, 109 shellfish soup, 80 squid balls, 99–100 shrimp balls, 99–100 star anise, 312 simple seafood stew, 102–3 stews, 112. See also braises; curries wedding-style, 103–4 black-eyed pea stew, 184 silver leaf, 311, 316 eggplant stew, 198 silver pomfret, 94, 101, 103 Goan meat or poultry stew, 127–29 simplest pulao, 167–68 Goan rich pork stew with vegetables, 129–31 Sinnes, A. Cort, 150 Irish stew, 131–32 smoked fish spread, 60 Kerala stew, 132 smoky eggplant salad, 218 kid stewed with potatoes, 115–16 smoky masala grilled quail, 147–48 papri claypot stew, 208–9 snack foods. See beginnings simple seafood stew, 102–3 snake gourd, 194, 311 split chickpea stew, 182–84 green curry with vegetables, 137 wedding stew, 205–6 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 sugar, 34, 312 ragout of, 193–95 jaggery, 34, 72, 300 vegetable curry, 135 suji, 256, 310. See also semolina snake saffron, 38 sukki vani, 116 soda, lime, fresh, 273 summer squash. See also zucchini Solanum melongena, 297. See also eggplant fritters, 57 Solanum tuberosum, 308. See also potato(es) green curry with vegetables, 137 soufflés meat stewed with, 114 green chutney soufflé, 88–89 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 omelet soufflé, 87–88 vegetable curry, 135 soup(s), 73–82 sunflower oil, 314 about, 73 suran. See elephant's foot yam carrot and fresh coriander, 74 surti kolam rice, 163, 309 carrot, with ginger, 74 suva. See dill dal soup, 178 Swali, Nalini, 57 fish or shellfish, with Parsi-style rouille, 79–80 sweet-and-sour khima, 121 get-well soups: mine, 77–78; Mother's, 77–78 sweet potatoes, 312 mulligatawny, 81–82 papri claypot stew, 208–9 soupy meat, 114 wedding stew, 205–6 summer melon and rose water dessert soup, 245–46 sweet-sour kachumbar, 223–24 tomato and ginger infusion, 75–76 sweet-sour tomatoes, 199–200 yogurt soup, 78–79 eggs on, 90 soybeans, seared, 54 sweets, 241–67 spices, spice mixtures. See also dhana jiru ; masala entries ; about, 241–42 specific spices cardamom cake, 266–67 final seasoning (vaghar), 32, 177, 178, 305 cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 sources, 315 cardamom shortbread, 261–63 spinach citrus ice, 248 braised greens, 191–92 crisp cashew wafers, 260–61 fritters, 57 date pastries, 264–65 meat cooked with greens, 114–15 fruit juice jelly, 244 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– giant cookie, 263 80 jardalu fool, 250 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 jardalu ice cream, 251 sponge gourd, 193–94, 311–12 jellied Pineau des Charentes, 245 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 mangoes, 243–44; mango fool, 244 green curry with vegetables, 137 melon ice, 248–49 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 milk pudding, 254–55 spreads Mother's famous jardalu trifle, 251–53 "Italian" egg salad, 59 poached jardalus, 250 Parsi pâté, 60–62 pomegranate ice, 247–48 smoked fish spread, 60 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 spritzer, pomegranate, 274–75 summer melon and rose water dessert soup, 245–46 squabs, Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 sweet milk with semolina puris, 255–57 squash. See also gourds; specific types of squash vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257– fritters, 57 59 squid Swiss chard. See chard Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 syrups, 270 masala seafood, 96–98 pomegranate syrup, 275 Syzygium aromaticum, 294 tomato(es) (continued) Parsi caponata, 207 tadka, 32. See also vaghar in Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 taj. See cassia; cassia leaf; cinnamon in Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 takmaria, 290. See also basil seed ragout of ridge gourd or snake gourd with, 193–95 tamal patta (cassia leaf), 292 sauce, meat braised in, 114 tamarind, 42, 213, 312 simple onion kachumbar, 223 date and tamarind chutney, 230–31; bhel puri potato in smoky eggplant salad, 218 salad with, 69 sweet-sour tomatoes, 199–200; eggs on, 90 sweet-sour kachumbar, 223–24 tomato gravy, 118 sweet tamarind chutney, 71–72 tomato-orange ice, 272 Tamarindus indica, 312. See also tamarind tomato rice, 169–70 tamota ma gos, 114 in wedding stew, 205–6 tamota ni chatni, 231–32 tongue tamota ni gravy, 118 lentils and lamb tongue, 180–82 tamota par ida, 90 salted, 154–56; cold tongue salad, 156; with poached tangerines eggs, 156; tongue sandwiches, 156 citrus ice, 248 topli nu panir, 63 fruit juice jelly, 244 Trachyspermum ammi, 289. See also ajwain Mani Masi's tomato and orange drink, 271–72 Trichosanthes cucumerina, 194, 311. See also snake gourd Tangren, Alan, 190, 264 trifle Tanis, David, 190, 206 jardalu, Mother's famous, 251–52 tarela bhida, 199 prune, 252–53 tarela kanda, 90, 186–87 trifle cake, 252 tarela kera, 204–5 Trigonella foenum-graecum, 298. See also fenugreek leaf tareli machhi, 96–98 tukhmuriya ni biya. See basil seed tarka, 177 turia. See ridge gourd; sponge gourd taro, 54, 56, 312–13 turia attva parval nu sakh, 193–95 taro-leaf rolls, 54–56 turia par ida, 90, 194 tarvana kera. See plantains turkey tava peas, 53–54 grilled Thanksgiving turkey, 149–51 tea, 270, 276 ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; Parsi, with mint and lemongrass, 276, 301–2 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22; techniques, basic, 32–33 Parsiburgers or meat loaf, 118–19 tej (cassia leaf), 292 hearts, Parsi anticuchos, 160 tel. See oils turmeric, 77, 234, 313 tempering (vaghar), 32, 177, 178, 305 fresh turmeric and ginger pickle, 234–35; Krishna's textured soy protein breakfast, 65–66 khima, 119–21 my get-well soup, 77–78 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22 turnips Thanksgiving Brussels sprouts, 190–91 duck legs braised with (variation), 149 Thanksgiving leafy greens, 191 watercress and turnip salad, 215–16 Thanksgiving turkey, grilled, 149–51 tuvar dal. See pigeon peas Thompson, Sylvia Vaughan, 260 twice-cooked grilled lamb or kid, 126–27 til. See sesame oil; sesame seed til nu tel. See sesame oil umbaryu, 208–9 Time and Talents Club cookbook, 21, 37, 54 Unterman, Patty, 58, 97 tindola, 195–96, 313 upo, 239, 291. See also bottle gourd eggs on, 196 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 vaghar, 32, 177, 178, 305 green curry with vegetables, 137 vagharela chaval, 168–69 meat stewed with, 114 valpapri, 299 stir-fried, 195–96 varak. See silver leaf vegetable curry, 135 variali (fennel seed), 298 tindola par ida, 196 vasanu, 299 tindora. See tindola veal, 113 Tingle, Alta, 77 Bombay curry, 132–35 tomato(es) dhansak with meat or chicken, 180 aspic, 76 green curry, 135–37 chutney, Parsi, 231–32 hearts, Parsi anticuchos, 160 drinks: bloody mehra, 272; Mani Masi's tomato and Irish stew, 131–32 orange drink, 271–72 Nana's biryani, 173–76 and ginger infusion, 75–76 savory braised, 112–15 ice, 76 stewed with potatoes, 115–16 ketchup, homemade, 232–33 vegetable oils. See oils vegetables, 185–209. See also salad(s); specific vegetables watercress about, 185–86 chopped watercress salad with ginger vinaigrette, 216 allium confit, 186–87 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 angel-hair potatoes, 200–201 and turnip salad, 215–16 eggplant, pumpkin, or bottle gourd stew, 198–99 watermelon fried plantains, 204–5 pickle, quick, 53 Goa curry with, 107 summer melon and rose water dessert soup, 245–46 Goan rich pork stew with, 129–31 watermelon drink, 273–74 green curry with, 137 wedding celebrations, 9, 22, 237, 253, 282 greens: braised, 191–92; quick-cooked, 192–93; wedding pickle, Parsi, 237–39 Thanksgiving leafy greens, 191 wedding stew, 205–6 Irish stew with, 132 wedding-style fish or shrimp, 103–4 Kenya masala butter for corn on the cob, 187–88 white rum and pomegranate cocktail, 275–76 khima -stuffed, 121 wine, 269–70, 271 masala vegetables, 98 jellied Pineau des Charentes, 245 meat stewed with, 114 pomegranate kir or kir royale, 275 Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 winter melon one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 papri claypot stew, 208–9 winter squash. See also pumpkin Parsi hash yellow potatoes, 202–4 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 80 potage of lentils and (dhansak), 162, 178–80 wobbly cauliflower custard, Mother's, 189–90 potato wafers (chips), 201–2 Wolfert, Paula, 233 pumpkin crescents with curry leaves, 197 Worcestershire sauce, 314 ragout of ridge gourd or snake gourd, 193–95 sautéed okra, 199 yogurt, 314. See also raita(s) savory vegetable stews, 115 hot weather yogurt drink, 277 stir-fried long beans, 188–89 long beans with, 189 stir-fried tindola, 195–96 vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257– sweet-sour tomatoes, 199–200 59 Thanksgiving Brussels sprouts, 190–91 yogurt cheese, 62; Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 vegetable curry, 135 yogurt soup, 78–79 vegetable fritters (bhajjias), 57 vegetable patia, 109–10 zimikand. See elephant's foot yam wedding stew, 205–6 Zingiber officinale, 299. See also ginger vengna. See eggplant Zizyphus jujuba, 301. See also jujubes vengna nu achar, 235–36 Zoroastrianism, 2–3 vengna nu bharat, 218–19 zucchini. See also summer squash vengna ni buriyani, 198–99 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257–59 green curry with vegetables, 137 Vichitvadakan, Juree, 164 jam, 239–40 Vigna radiata, 304. See also mung beans Vigna unguiculata, 291. See also black-eyed peas Vigna unguiculata v. sesquipedalis, 302. See also long beans vinaigrette about oils and vinegars, 212–13 ginger, chopped watercress salad with, 216 vindaloo, 127–29 vinegar, 213, 314, 315 Vitis spp., 308 Vividh Vani (cookbook), 11 wafer par ida, 90–91 wafers crisp cashew, 260–61 potato (potato chips), 201–2; eggs on, 90–91 walnuts chicken in walnut gravy, 140 crisp walnut wafers (variation), 260–61 date pastries, 264–65 date-walnut shake, 278 water, 270