My Bombay Kitchen, by Niloufer King University of California Press, 2007
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My Bombay Kitchen, by Niloufer King University of California Press, 2007 aam ras, 243–44 arhar dal. See pigeon peas Abelmoschus esculentus, 305. See also okra arvi. See taro adu. See ginger asafetida, 37, 290 adu lasan (ginger-garlic paste), 36, 112, 300 Asian pears adu nu raitu, 226–27 fruit chutney, 233 ajmo. See ajwain Asian squash. See gourds ajmo na patra. See Cuban oregano aspic, tomato, 76 ajowan. See ajwain avocado, pomelo salad with, 220 ajwain, 289 butter, for corn on the cob, 51 badam. See almonds roasted cashews with, 50–51 badian (star anise), 312 "ajwain" leaf. See Cuban oregano bafela chaval, 162–64 akuri, 85–86 baffat, 129–31 pattis stuffed with, 123 Bana, Dhun, 63 Albless, Sehra, 64 banana leaves, 100–101, 102 aleti paleti, 151–52 fish in banana-leaf parcels, 100–102 Allium cepa, 305. See also onion(s) bananas, 204. See also plantains allium confit, 186–87 banana raita, 225 eggs on onions, 90 papri claypot stew, 208–9 Allium sativum, 299. See also garlic basic equipment, 30, 33 almonds, 289–90 sources, 316 almond gravy, chicken in, 140 basic ingredients, 34–48 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 glossary, 289–314 crisp almond wafers (variation), 260–61 sources, 315–16 giant cookie, 263 basic techniques, 32–33 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 basil seed, 278, 290 am haldi, 304 New Year's milk shake, 278–79 amaranth, 192–93, 290 basmati rice, 162, 163, 308. See also rice amaranth leaf fritters, 57 bay leaves, 292 braised greens, 191–92 bean greens meat cooked with greens, 114–15 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– beans. See also long beans; mung beans 80 field or hyacinth beans, 208, 299; papri claypot stew, Amaranthus. See amaranth 208–9 amba aradh. See mango ginger green, in Russian salad, 213–14 amli. See tamarind guar beans, 300; guar bean ragout, 195 Amomum subulatum, 292 seared (variation), 54 Amorphophallus campanulatus, 205, 298 beef, 112 Anacardium occidentale, 292. See also cashews ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; Andrew's Goa curry, 106–8 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22 Anethum graveolens, 297. See also dill heart, Parsi anticuchos, 160 angel-hair potatoes, 200–201 tongue, salted, 154–56 anticuchos, Parsi, 160 beer, 271 appalams. See papads beetroot nu salad, 214 appetizers. See beginnings beets apples beet salad, 214 fruit chutney, 233 Russian salad, 213–14 apricot kernels, 141, 301 beginnings, 49–72 apricots (jardalu), 141, 249, 301 about, 49–50 chicken with, 141–42 aleti paleti on toast, 152 jardalu fool, 250 bhel puri, 67–72 jardalu ice cream, 251 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 jardalu shake, 251 creamy panir, 63–65 Mother's famous jardalu trifle, 251–52 fritters, 57–58 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 khima samosas, 121 poached jardalu s, 250 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 aradh. See turmeric Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 aradhi nu achar, 234–35 Mother's "Italian" eggs, 58–59 argan oil, 213 Parsi crudités, 53 Argania spinosa, 213 Parsi pâté, 60–62 beginnings (continued) braises (continued) roasted cashews with again, 50–51 braised leg of lamb or kid, 124–26 seared peas, 53–54 duck legs braised with little onions, 148–49 smoked fish spread, 60 savory braised chicken with aromatics, 137–39 taro-leaf rolls, 54–56 savory braised lamb, goat, veal, or chicken (kharu yogurt cheese, 62 gos), 112–15 bell peppers Brassica spp., 304, 305 khima -stuffed vegetables, 121 breads, 42–48 Parsi ratatouille, 206–7 chapatis, 44–45 besan (chickpea flour), 293 papads, 47–48 beverages. See drinks puris, 45–46 bhaji. See also greens; specific greens breakfasts, 50, 83, 257 bhaji ma gos, 114 bottle gourd jam, 239–40 bhaji par ida, 191 khichri with poached egg, 167 bhaji with peas, 192 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 "express" bhaji, 192–93 Mehlli's orchard breakfast, 66–67 bhajjias, 57–58 menus, 282, 283 bheja na katles, 152–54 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 bhel puri, 67–72 tomato rice with sausage and egg, 170 bhel puri potato salad, 69 vermicelli and sweet yogurt birthday breakfast, 257– bhida. See okra 59 bhida par ida, 90 Breski, Randal, 169 bhujelu gos, 126–27 Brussels sprouts, Thanksgiving, 190–91 birthday breakfasts, 257 Buchanania latifolia, 263, 294 semolina birthday breakfast pudding, 259–60 Bunium bulbocastanum, B. persicum, 295. See also black vermicelli and sweet yogurt, 257–59 cumin birthday celebrations, 9, 257 burgers, Parsi, 118–19 biryanis, 163–64, 173 buriyani, 198 Nana's biryani, 173–76 eggplant (vengna ni buriyani), 198 bitter cucumber. See bitter gourd pumpkin or bottle gourd, 199 bitter gourd, 290–91 butter. See also ghee ragout, 195 ajwain, for corn on the cob, 51 bitter melon. See bitter gourd Kenya masala butter, for corn on the cob, 187–88 black cardamom, 292 black cumin, 37, 295 cabbage black-eyed peas, 188, 291 khima -stuffed vegetables, 121 black-eyed pea stew, 184 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 trotters with, 156–58 salad, with lime and mint, 214–15 black pepper. See pepper, black Cajanus cajan, 306. See also pigeon peas blood oranges cake citrus ice, 248 cardamom cake, 266–67 fruit juice jelly, 244 rose geranium cardamom cake, 267 bloody mehra, 272 trifle cake, 252 Bombay curry, 132–35 calf brain cutlets, 152–54 Bombay duck, 94 calf liver Bombay food and markets Parsi mixed grill, 158–59 breads and pastries, 43, 51, 260, 261 calf tongue clubs and restaurants, 20, 178, 211, 278 lentils and (variation), 180–82 fish, 93–94 salted (variation), 156 fruits and vegetables, 185, 211, 212, 242 cane vinegar, 314, 315 meat, 112 caponata, Parsi, 207 panir, 63 Capsicum annuum v. annuum, 293. See also chiles street food, 57, 67–68 caramel Bombay, Parsis in, 5–7 cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 Bombay-style "mutton" sandwich, 126 caramelized farro, 169 bor. See jujubes caramelized fried rice, 168–69 bottle gourd, 239, 291 caraway, 291 bottle gourd buriyani, 199 cardamom, 291–92, 305. See also black cardamom bottle gourd jam, 239–40 cardamom cake, 266–67 Goa curry with vegetables, 107 cardamom caramel custard, 253–54 green curry with vegetables, 137 cardamom shortbread, 261–63 brain cutlets, 152–54 carnitas, Parsi, 127 braises. See also curries; stews carrot(s) braised greens, 191–92 and fresh coriander soup, 74 braised lamb shanks, 125 Parsi wedding pickle, 237–39 carrot(s) (continued) chicken (continued) and raisin pickle, 239 soups: mulligatawny, 81–82; my get-well soup, 77– and raisin salad, 216–17 78 Russian salad, 213–14 stewed with potatoes, 115–16 soup, with ginger, 74 chicken hearts, in Parsi anticuchos, 160 wedding stew, 205–6 chicken livers Carum carvi, 291 green masala, 151–52 Carum copticum, 289. See also ajwain Parsi pâté, 60–62 cashews, 292 chickpea flour cashew cream chicken, 139–40 sev, 70–71 crisp cashew wafers, 260–61 chickpeas, 292–93 roasted, with ajwain, 50–51 potage of lentils and vegetables (dhansak), 162, 178– cassia, 292, 294 80 cassia leaf, 292 seared, 54 cauliflower split chickpea stew, 182–84 fritters, 57 Child, Julia, 162 gratin, 190 chile greens green curry with vegetables, 137 quick-cooked greens, 192–93 meat stewed with (cauliflower ma gos ), 114 chiles, 293 Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 chile pickle, 236–37 one hundred almond curry with (variation), 144 hot green chutney, 72 vegetable curry, 135 chilly powder, 294 cayenne pepper(s), 293, 294 Chinese dates. See jujubes channa. See chickpeas Chinese okra. See ridge gourd channa dal, 292–93. See also chickpeas chironji nut, 263, 294 channa ni dar, 43, 182–84 cholai bhaji. See amaranth chapatis (rotlis), 42, 43 chow chow. See chayote recipe, 44–45 chutney(s), 227–34. See also pickle(s) chard about, 72, 221, 222; sources, 315 for fish parcels, 102 chutney fried fish, 154 for patrel, 54, 56 date and tamarind, 230–31; bhel puri potato salad quick-cooked greens, 192–93 with, 69 charoli (chironji nut), 263, 294 fish in banana-leaf parcels with, 100–102 charvela ida, 84–85 fruit, 233 chaura. See black-eyed peas; long beans green: green chutney soufflé, 88–89; hot green chayote chutney, 72; Parsi green chutney, 227–28; vegetable curry, 135 potato cakes stuffed with (variation), 123 cheese, 51 green mango: fresh, 229; Major Ordle's, 229–30 cheese and almond crisps, 51–52 rhubarb, 233–34 cheese fritters, 58 sweet tamarind chutney, 71–72 creamy panir, 63–65 tomato, Parsi, 231–32 Krishna's breakfast, 65–66 Cicer arietinum, 292. See also chickpeas Mother's wobbly cauliflower custard, 189–90 cilantro. See coriander leaf yogurt cheese, 62 Cinnamomum cassia, 292 Chez Panisse, 190, 264 Cinnamomum zeylanicum, 292, 294 chhaas, 277 cinnamon, 292, 294 chicken, 112, 137 Citrus aurantifolia, 302. See also lime in almond, walnut, or pistachio gravy, 140 Citrus maxima, 307. See also pomelos with apricots, 141–42 clams Bombay curry, 132–35 green curry with seafood, 137 cashew cream chicken, 139–40 seafood moli, 106 dhansak with, 180 shellfish soup, 80 Goan rich stew with vegetables, 129–31 cloves, 294 Goan stewed (vindaloo), 127–29 cluster beans. See guar beans green curry, 135–37 Coccinia grandis, 313. See also tindola ground: cutlets or meatballs, 116–17; khima, 119–21; cocktail, white rum and pomegranate, 275–76 khima -stuffed potato cakes, 121–22; coconut, 39–42, 294–95, 315, 316 Parsiburgers or meat loaf, 118–19 carrot and raisin salad with, 216–17 Irish stew, 131–32 chutney, fish in banana-leaf parcels with, 10 Mother's favorite (chicken maivahlans ), 144–47 corn, green mango, and coconut salad, 217–18 Nana's biryani, 173–76 to grate, 40–41 one hundred almond curry, 142–44 long beans with, 189 with potatoes, 138–39 Parsi green chutney, 227 savory braised, 112–15; with aromatics, 137–39 pomelo and coconut salad, 219–20 coconut milk, 40, 294, 295.