CALIFORNIA'S
MOUNTAINS AND TRAILS OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY by Dick Smith and Frank Vein Schaick
McNally and Loftin, Publishers Santo Barbaro AUTHOR'S NOTE
While Southern California's urban areas are constantly changing, the mountains and their network of trails re tain their familiar features year after year. There has been one significant change in Santa Bar bara's beautiful back country since this book was first published six years ago: the classification of "wilderness" that has been placed on 143,000 acres of the San Rafael range and the adjoining slopes of the Sierra Madre moun tains. Several years of struggle by the U.S. Forest Service and local and national conservationists helped bring this bit of land under the protection of the 1964 Wilderness Act. A special bill was passed in Congress and was signed by President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1968. Most of the land comprising this new Wilderness Area is shown as a primitive area on the maps in this book.
Dick Smith September,. 1968
Copyright 1962 by Dick Smith and Frank Van Schaick Printed in the United States of America Contents
Primitive Beauty Behind the Coast 6
The Santa Ynez Mountains...... 13
Trails and Campsites Beyond the Santa Ynez Peaks . . 20
The Santa Ynez River ...... 21
Streams that Feed the Santa Ynez...... 25
The Rugged San Rafael Mountains...... 33
Manzana-Fisherman 's Creek ...... 44
The Hidden Sisquoc ...... 47
Top of the County, the Sierra Madres...... 49
Nature's Bounty in Plants ...... 55
Dwellers in the Wilderness ...... 56
Mystery Surrounds Work of Early Indian Painters .. 57
Wilderness Dwellers of the Past ...... 62
Good Manners in the Forest...... 63
CREDITS All photographs, maps, art, and text in thi-s book are by Dick Smith and Frank Van Schaick. ROADS-,.TRAILS f' ..../-../J ,, Of THEFOREST
·Roads Tl'tlllls ;~G~,~, Camps fl~ MTN. I Fores-1- /Joul?dal"'t/ ~ N00PENrlHE5 IN TNE ~EST CAMPF/Ke PeNMITS / • SANTA BARBARA DISTRICT LOS PADRES NATIONAl FOJclEST Santa Barbara County's major forest recreation areas are within the boundaries of the Santa Barbara District of the Los Padres National Forest. A network of trails, and numerous camps put this mounta~nous region within easy reach of county residents. 4 A major portion of Santa Barbara County is un inhabited. Thousands of acres of its mountain lands are national reserves under the control of the Forest Service. Here will be found scenery as varied as any in the nation. Automobile travel through these lands is re stricted to a small number of public roads; the central mountain wilderness north of the city of Santa Barbara can be reached only on foot or on horseback. Viewed from the air, or from an overlook on one of the peaks immediately behind the city of Santa Barbara, this back country appears as a wilderness of peaks and ridges, deep gorges, narrow, winding canyons and broad valleys. To some, it has a for bidding aspect; others see a challenge in its raw majesty. It is the purpose of this book to acquaint you with the mountain ranges, rivers, streams and beau tiful valleys of this Santa Barbara back country. Together, we will walk the wilderness trails and unlock a world of unsullied grandeur - a world that is still, in the 1960's, almost as God made it. 5 PrimitiveBeauty Behindthe Coast Beginning with first ra ins at summer's end there Sout hern Ca lifornia. It begins dir ectly behi nd th e comes each year a renewed inter est in Santa Bar city of Santa Barbara and extends fifty miles north bara 's lovely, mysterious back country. To those ward to th e top o.f the county. It stretches eastward who have once looked beyond the coasta l mountain to the Ventura County lin e, whic h bi sects the wall, there is an imp atience to get into the forest national forest. T he forest itself exte nd s throug h again. Ot hers, viewing the county's wild areas for all of northern Ventura Co u nty an9 conti nu es to th e first tim e, feel the lur e of the unknown and the Los Ange les Co un ty lin e. Here it blends with begin to p lan trips that will take them into the the Ange les Nat ional Fo rest. Hall lands of the Los mountain s. Padre s Natio nal Forest are considered, th e as Santa Barbara's back country is as genero us a ton ishin g tota l ot 2,0 16,082 acres is attained, mak chun k of wild erness as can be found anywhere in in g it the largest nationa l forest in Ca lifornia. For 6 our purposes, however, we will limit our explora North of the imposing main ridge of the San tion to those areas found within Santa Barbara Rafaels lies an intermediate mountain chain, still County. part of the San Rafaels, but not so heavily wooded. Drive to the top of El Camino Cielo - the sky Much of this chain is set aside as a Primitive Area road - which follows the crest of the Santa Ynez and with one or two minor exceptions along its Mountains. From these heights, which separate eastern boundary, no roads of any kind penetrate the coastal areas from the back count.ry, you will it. The Primitive Area is bordered on the south be presented with a choice oEmagnificent views. by Manzana Creek and its deep canyon and on the South, you will see the endless Pacific, the Channel north by the Sisquoc River. These streams join Islands, and the coastal plains. Northward your at the western extremity of the range. The Sisquoc gaze will meet almost limitless mountain ranges. continues westward out of the forest to flow into The longest and highest mountain ridge to the the Santa Maria River and on to the sea. north will be Big Pine Mountain. Southeast of Big North of the Sisquoc rise the lofty Sierra Madres. Pine is spectacular, jagged-cliffed Madulce Moun The grass covered tops of this range are used ex tain. Forbiddingly hot and dry in the summer, tensively for cattle grazing by ranchers of the the back country wi°lderness becomes friendly Cuyama Valley, along the northern rim of Santa again after the season's first rains. Later in the Barbara County. winter, the rain turns to snow on these high peaks. While the Santa Ynez Range consists primarily Fifty years ago; the passes through these moun of sandstone and soft conglomerate layers, the tains were used by cattlemen driving herds fattened mountains behind present a wide variety of geo on high grasses in the mountain potreros. Now logical forms. Many peaks of the San Rafaels con the land is held primarily as a watershed and tain the dark red of cinnabar, the ore from which secondarily as a recreational resource. The cattle mercury is extracted. Colorful layers of shiriy blue have not disappeared entirely, however. Grazing green serpentine ~re also found in quantity, partic rights are still held by the owners of isolated ularly in the area extending from Figueroa Moun ranches whose property ad joins the forest preserve. tain to Ranger Peak. Scattered outcroppings of Directly behind Santa Barbara's southern coastal conglomerate, limestone and alabaster are also plains rise the slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains. found. These primarily sandstone ridges are new in a Visible throughout the county is the white, geological sense of time. Experts place them around stratified, diatomaceous earth. Formed millions of 25 million years old. years ago by microscopic sea animals called dia Throughout the range, many fossils of sea toms, these skeletal remains lie in deposits of great animals occur, showing that this land mass once depth. was far beneath the Pacific. Viewed from Santa Barbara, the coastal range Behind this range lies the Santa Ynez River. seems covered with a mass of formless black vege Beginning just within the county's eastern bound tation. This is the chaparral belt, abounding with ary, the river flows almost due west until it empties plant life. Among the dominant plants of the into the Pacific at the end of the Lompoc Valley. chaparral are the scrub oak and the Ceanothu.s or In the forest area behind Santa Barbara the buckthorn. Often called mountain lilac, it comes river valley is narrow and deep. Small tributary into bloom early in the year and adds a fresh, frosty streams flowing from the north slopes of the Santa look to the mountainsides. Closer observation re Ynez range and the south slopes of the San Rafaels wards the viewer with the sight of blossoms rang lead into the deeper parts of the wilderness. ing from deep blue to near white. Entrance to the rugged San Rafael Mountains Canyons and watersheds of the chaparral belt can be gained from the Santa Ynez River on trails also contain a variety of trees ranging from the that lead north through many canyons. Trails to large-leafed sycamore to the long, narrow-leafed Little Pine, Big Pine, Old Man and many other mountain laurel or bay tree. Higher up, the slopes wilderness peaks start along the Santa Ynez River. are covered with beautifully formed and brightly The San Rafaels contain an endless variety of colored manzanita bushes. Their light green leaves scenic beauty. form a colorful pattern against the deep, glossy 7 This fine specimen of manzanita grows beside Painted Cave Road above Santa Barbara. red and peelin g bark. of th eir trun ks. O ccasional long, but th e plant life ben efits fro m thi s slow groves and indi vidu al madrones sta nd o ut sharpl y melting and deep-soakin g moistur e. along th e hi ghest rid ges. Cou sin s of th e manz anita , For man y years, San ta Barbara Count y's main these tre es have larger leaves and light er bark but ri vers an d str eam s have dri ed up in the heat of th e hav e a family similarity. long summ er ; they stop runnin g by late .Jun e or Beginnin g on th e highest peaks of th e Santa Ynez ea rl y July. Farth er back in th e wilde rn ess, how Ran ge, man y vari eti es of conif ers are found. Co ul eve r, th e smaller tribu tari es often ru n all year long ter and di gge r pin es are seen along La Cumb re and pro vide spawn ing gro und for nat ive tro ut. Peak.. In the San R afaels, ther e are many stand s of Long before th e snow has melted from the tall, stat ely fir, spru ce, pin e and ot her evergreens. hi ghest peaks, th e moun tain sid es burst forth in Rainfall average s around 17 inches a year blossom. Th e co lorful show of wild I-lowe rs cove rs throu gho ut th e co unt y, but th e mo unt ain ran ges acre up on acre of moun ta in meadows an d slop es receive far grea ter am o unt s, and in winter snow with brilli an t hu es. is comm on on th e peaks. Th e snow seldom lasts Most colorful of all is lup ine . Masses of th eir 8 brilliant blu e are oh en mi xed with the bn ght meadows th ere are remnant s of early homestead s. orange of th e state flower, th e golden Ca liforn ia Old and crumblin g adobes, log cab ins and frame poppy. Hundr eds of vari et ies of ot her colorfu I house s long deserted, are often seen. Along th e wild flowers ar e to be seen along the wilde rn ess upp er Sisquoc ar e th e aba ndoned fa;ms of a colony tra ils throug ho ut the entir e ope n season. of Mormon settlers. Only an occas iona l bu ckbo ard Many of the back country tr ails traverse de sert or ru sty plow remain s to give a hint to the kind of lik e terra in. H ere yucca and cact us ra ise up an life these people tried to carve from th e narrow, almost imp enetrab le wa ll alongside th e trails. fertil e but remote valley. Yucca - often ca lled Spani sh bayo net- wi ll cut Trout fisherm en find it wort h their wh ile to through the toug hest boot leat her, caus in g a pain pack in to th e headwaters o f many of Santa Bar ful sting. bara County's mountain streams, for nati ve trout Mu ch of the Santa Barbara Distri ct of the Los of good size_a re foun d where the fishin g activity Padr es 1atio nal Forest is closed to entry d urin g is n ot so gTeat. the hot summ er month s for th e protection of the De er hu nters who en joy th e mo untain scenery wate rshed as well as the peop le who mi ght use it. as much as the search for game, often tra vel by The closed season usuall y be gins on the first of horseback, movin g from on e primiti ve camp to Jul y and end s with the first good rain in the fall. ano ther. Th ese camp s are usually spaced ju st under Plan s ar e under way to open more of th e readily a day 's journey apart. accessible recreatio nal areas throughout the year. Ear ly in the 1800's, p elt hu nters found ot ter, But first the Forest Servi ce mu st complet e its plan beaver and ot her fur bearin g ianimal s in quantity for fighting fire from helip orts located at strat egic all along the count y's stream s and rivers . Their spot s throu ghout the wilderness. The plan also in heavy trappin g caused the d isappeara nce of these cludes mor e exte nsive clearing of ex istin g recrea creatures from the ar ea . In recent years beaver tion areas and camping sites. ha ve been planted by the For est Serv ice so that At the pr esen t time , th ere are man y campin g the mount ain streams mi ght be damm ed and the areas eas ily reached by aut omob ile. Most of the se water conserved. are open throu gho ut th e year. Road s to some are The baying of hound s is often hear d along the unsurfaced , but are grade d seve ral times a year for tr ails in the wee hour s of th e mornin g and- many the ben efit of the camp ers, hunters and fisher men a camper has been awakened by a hound sniffin g who use them. around hi s sleep in g bag. Coo n hunter s begin the While many poin ts of in terest ma y be reac hed hunt in the hours aft er midnight and continu e by automobi le, the bea ut y of the inn er wildern ess th eir searc h for the wily coon until daybreak. may onl y be enj oyed by tho se who are willin g to walk or ride in . Hor se and foot trails cross the Another popul ar mo unt ain sport is the track in g entire di stri ct and camp sites are maintain ed d eep and killin g of th e mountain lion. Until the spring in the back country . of 1962, the count y offered a bounty on thi s kin g Man y of the trails ent er ing th e wildern ess have of th e mountaint ops. The redu ction of the lion bee n used for centuri es; remains of ancient I ndian population , how ever, res ult ed in an over popula camping plac es may be found along chem , in th e tion of deer. It has been a question as to which deepes t rea ches of the forest. Many trai ls, wh ile anim al does th e rancher the most dama ge. While nea rl y ove rgTown, may still be tra ced and followed the lion will occasionally kill a calf or a sheep, the by a good woodsman. deer make sho rt work of range grasses when the ir The Forest Service keeps a numb er of tra ils in numbers increase. excellent co ndi tion to give access to the more Coyote, fox, oposs um, bear, bobcat and badger promin ent peaks and str eams. Big Pine and Little are also found in the wild er ness area. The elk, Pine trails, and the tr ail up the Sisquoc River, are which once gnzed here in quantity, d isapp eared thr ee major aven u es of entrance into the most abo ut th e turn of the century . Mountain qua il, pr imi tive reac hes of th is bea u tiful land. doves and wild pigeo ns flourish, but larger game Traveling along one of these well-marked trai ls birds have not surv ived, thoug h attempts have been offers many pleasant surp ri ses. In the farthest made to establish them in the back countr y. 9 Summer Heat Cold winter rains and snow flurries give way to hot summer and the lush green of the mountain's winter cover turns to sun. As the temper ature soars, the streams cease to flow golden browns and dusty grays. Fire danger is extr eme. IO Winter Snow When cold winds blow, rain on the coast often means snow the Santa Ynez Mountains and reached far down the coastal in the mountains. In January 1962 a mantle of snow covered slopes, providing a rare treat for Santa Barbarans. 11 -- D.tl~Jl.lNOW Y?IYFJ~t/11~.J.N ,= -~-- -=-~ - --- CN- A stand of native cactus at Santa Barbara's Botanic Gardens. The Santa Ynez Mountains Behind the city of Santa Barbara, a network of LA CUMBRE TRAIL leads up Mission Creek trails leads up through canyons and along stream to the end of Tunnel Road, where a good open beds to the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains. tra il carries on to the peak. You can also drive to Many of these trai ls are kept up by members the end of Tunnel Road and pick up the trai l of trail riding groups. Most of the trails are well beyond the locked gate to Mission Tunnel. marked and provide good footing for man and At the top of La Cumbre Trail, you can walk beast. They start in lush canyon bottoms, lead up east on EI Camino Cielo to the top of RATTLE steep slopes, and follow across rocky ledges to the SN AKE ·CANYON TRAIL. This will bring you top of the mountains. From the top, there are back down to Las Canoas Road. breathtaking views of the entire coastal area and Farther east there is a good way to the top of the rugged slopes of the back country. the mountains on COLD SPRINGS TRAIL. T his 13 starts at Mountain Drive and is a difficult trail on automobile road near the top of the mountain. horseback. It is used on ly by the most tra ilwi se This trail offers a delightful view of the coast line to horse and rider groups. the south. The horse trail stays with the road , but a Popular with residents of the Montecito area is walk up the creek itself is very rewarding and takes SAN YSIDRO TRAIL, which begins in the foot you through a wet canyon, lush with vegetation . hills where San Ysidro Road turns east . From the Higher up, the vegetation thins out and the trai l top of this trail, a return route farther east can becomes quite rocky toward the top. Once the top be found at Romero Canyon. is reached, there is a continuation down Juncal Road to a marked point just above Escondido Can Riding groups from Montecito often use these yon. Here the trail goes down into Blue Canyon trails to ride over to the Santa Ynez River through where there are two good primitive camps. The Blue Canyon on the other side. area beyond . the creek, however, is usually closed The ROMERO CANYON TRAIL leaves the in summer. Looking south from the top of the Santa Ynez Range, the broad sweep of the green Goleta VaIJey and the deep blue of the Pacific are revealed in startling perspective. 14 Above: Mountains and sky are a blend of shades of gray at low-lying fog and reveals a wide vista of ranges and peaks. dusk as a blanket of fog settles on the lower slopes of the Th is "show" takes place every morning. The price-a 15- Santa Ynez range. Below: A chill dawn wind scatters the minute drive from still-slumbering Santa Barbara. 15 Adventure 1n the Rocks The caves in rock outcroppings along the top of the mountains above Santa Barbara offer endless possibilities to young ex plorers. The smooth-worn sandstone "ribs" of the Santa Ynez Mountains stick out all along the summit-providing innumerable excit ing perches from which to view the ocean and valley below. 16 This swimming hole holds water all year but its location is a secret known only to a very few youngsters living near the top of San Marcos Pass. 17 Behind Carpinteria there are many trails that spots and requires careful negotiating of hairpin offer access to the back country. One begins at turns. Just before the summit of San Ma~cos Pass, TORO CANYON, another goes up SANTA West El Camino starts. Only a small part of this MONICA CANYON. These two reach the top by is surfaced, but, like its eastern half, it too offers joining with the main trail leading up FRANK wonderful views of the ocean and the Goleta val LIN CANYON. This trail continues'on down to ley far below. Directly above Goleta's Patterson Jameson Lake behind Juncal Dam, the source of Avenue is the picnic area known as ·Goddard's Montecito's water supply. Another major 'trail Camp. Here there is adequate room for group leads up along RINCON CREEK and comes to._ picnics and outings. The site is high and offers the top above Juncal Dam. This trail continues access to many interesting wind sculptured rock on down to the San ta Ynez River and crosses to formations just below on the ocean-side slopes. meet the trail to OLD MAN MOUNTAIN and From this beginning, one can also walk down MONTE ARIDO, at the county's eastern to Slippery Rock, where the deep ruts from Santa boundary. Barbara's early stagecoach road over the pass may West of Santa Barbara, there are many trails still be seen in the solid rock. Here, too, is the that begin in the foothills. A~ROYO BURRO general area where Colonel John C. Fremont is TRAIL goes to the top from San Roque Canyon. said to have camped prior to capturing Santa Bar It reaches the summit near the automobile road bara for the United States in 1847. that goes down to the Santa Barbara County 4-H Farther along the road west there are many Club Summer Camp at White Oak Flats just above places to stop and walk down into the rock forma the Santa Ynez River. tions along dry washes. Many of the rocks in this An old and long-abandoned trail good only for area contain shallow caves that offered shelter for hiking goes up BARGER CANYON just a few Indians. In some places one can find faint signs of miles farther west and meets with the Arroyo paintings on the roofs of these caves. In canyons Burro Trail about halfway to the top. This trail, leading down to the Goleta Valley careful search which begins at the end of a private road, is popu ing will disclose paintings near springs in the lar with youngsters of the Hope district. stream beds. There are many trails in the Goleta foothills, Farther west the road turns to the north of Santa but access to them is through private property and Ynez Peak and offers a good view of the valley, permission must be obtained before taking them Cachuma Dam and the lake behind fr. Ranch to the top. One well-used equestrian trail winds buildings in the valley look like toys from this along the oak covered hillsides just below the San lofty viewpoint. Marcos golf course; a pleasant afternoon ride may The road continues westward for some 18 miles be highlighted with a dip in a clear pool in San and is passable except when washed out by heavy Antonio Creek. winter rains. It ends at the top of Refugio Pass, Along the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains, where a well-surfaced road drops down to the from Refugio Pass on the west to Romero Canyon ocean and Highway IOI for a quick return to Santa Road on the east, is El Camino Cielo. From the Barbara. The road to the right of the tip of Refugio summit of San Marcos Pass the access to East El Pass takes a meandering course down the north Camino Cielo can be gained. This is well surfaced slope to the Santa Ynez Valley. The return to Santa as far east as La Cumbre Peak and offers a com Barbara can be made on Highway 154. manding view of Santa Barbara, the harbor and Leading down from the top of the Santa Ynez the Channel Islands. Adventurous drivers may Mountains are many trails to the Santa Ynez River. take Romero Canyon Road down from the top at Only a few people today use them to gain access the east end of El Camino. This road is rocky and to the back co~ntry. Bnt in the years before good hugs the edges of steep drops in many places and roads, these trails were heavily traveled by people is not recommended for those unaccustomed to on foot and on horseback. mountain driving. It is a one-way road in many News-Press columnist Henry Ewald recalls his 18 The lake behind Gibraltar Dam presents a glistening contrast to the arid landscape surrounding it. This view is from El Camino Cielo as the road cuts to the north behind La Cumbre Peak. trip s to th e Sant a Ynez R iver as a boy. O n Sat ur day tire week -end in the outdoors. evenin gs, he and ot her local youth s would start up Before the whi te man pop ulated the coasta l val th e moun ta in by way of La Cum bre T rail. Fro m ley, th e Indi ans who lived on the ocean used the th e top, th ey made th eir way down to the Sant a trails to go inland for game and for trad ing trip s. Ynez over the trail in the dark . Th ey would sleep T he trails you take today are th e same as those un til light- at the most thr ee or four hour s- and used by the redm en_ in crossing the range. Many th en would fish all day before takin g the long steep arti facts have been foun d along the way, espec ially trail back. Ofte n the y went to school on Monday in places where th e trave lers had cached sup plies mornin g with onl y a few hour s of sleep for th e en- in shallow caves to make the journ ey easier. 19 /'/,-'~ MADlJLC6c.• Pl<. K ..Jr--.::::~___,- ~s M ~T 'P/lll(GS NOOL.A. C:..5. J. 'P,CNIC SITE -AuroROADS £ CAMPSITES ...... TRAILS Trails leading down the back slope of the Santa Ynez Range offer access to the Santa Ynez River. Trails and Campsites Beyond the Santa Ynez Peaks The downslope extension of the ARROYO Other trails to the east are shown on the map and BURRO TRAIL is the easiest route to the OSO are clearly marked where they leave El Camino CAMP area from the top of the mountains. It is Cielo. now a well bulldozed road and can be traveled by Some horse groups use these trails after climbing automobile. LEWIS CANYON to the west has a to the Santa Ynez summit from Santa Barbara and foot trail emerging on the valley floor at about the Montecito. Today, however, the popular way is to same point. This trail starts down from El Camino save time by trailering stock to the camps along Cielo in the saddle behind Painted Cave. the Santa Ynez River. P-Bar Campground, Mono Trails suitable for riding groups lead down Campground and Juncal Campground often have from ROMERO CANYON saddle through BLUE trailers and riders based there during the prime CANYON to the Santa Ynez above Gibraltar Dam. trail season. 20 The Santa Ynez River Before Gibraltar Dam was bui lt to supp ly water Gibraltar Dam. Above the dam there are several to coastal Santa Barbara, the entire length of the exce llent campsites, but they must be reached by Santa Ynez River was available for summer recrea traveling over the top of the Santa Ynez Range east tion. Today, the only easily accessible part is below of La Cumbre Peak. 2 1 Cattails form a strong black and white pattern-an ideal photographic subject. The Santa Ynez River bas many stands of these waterside plants. The Santa Ynez River runs most of the year and more apt to turn brown in a skill et near the river. during the wet season it is a broad river with fast Wh ile there are several pub lic camps along th e runnin g water too high to ford at the popular lower part of th e river, they are usua lly well oc crossin gs above t!1e main public camps. cupi ed by picnic gra up s and campe rs. T he area Trout are planted at regu lar intervals during just above the Los Prietos Boys Camp crossing is the season and the stream is heavily fished. Ca tch not so heavily used and offers more breathing ab le trou t have little chan ce to turn nati ve- they're room. 22 This stately clump of trees is on the road to Pendola Guard Station, in the Santa Ynez Valley above Gibraltar Dam. The first camp beyond the crossing is OSO. Situ usually fine throughout the year. On some summer ated right on the river, it has several good swim days there's hardly room to swim , however, for the ming holes and a number of campsites w~ll spaced . people of the Santa Ynez Valley often go there to There are fine trees here to provide shade. A road escape the heat. leads to the north from Oso Camp to UPPER OSO. Both the county and Forest Service maintain Here, just a short way from the Santa Ynez, Oso camps just below the Los Prietos Boys Camp cross Creek runs through a · wide and pleasant valley. ing. They are marked on the accompanying map: There is a large camp with room for many peop le. The Santa Ynez is a beautiful , tree-bordered From here you can make several short walkin g river. Stately sycamores, alders, laurels, willows, trips into the San Rafa~l Range. Trails lead from and cottonwoods grow in abundance. Along the the camp to many canyons and mountains to the edge of the river there are often marshy places north. filled with-cattails, and in the shallows one sees On the other side and above the river, there is a hundreds of goldfish shimmering in the sun. Jap 4-H Club summer camp on WHITE OAK FLATS. anese fishermen years ago used the goldfish for bait This is also reached from the top by a road leading in the upper Santa Ynez. Some of the goldfish re off El Camino Cielo . SANT A YNEZ and RED mained behind the dam until a heavy rain season ROCK camps are also in this area and are very caused the dam to spill for several weeks. The popular on hot days, for the swimming holes are heavy flow of water dislodged the goldfish from 23 The cool waters of the Santa Ynez River are most welcome after a ride across the hills. their home above and now they are found all the bed just north of the road. This is P-BAR CAMP . way to the ocean . Many pools also contai n the Stoves are placed in a pleasant grove of giant oaks. California pond turtle; slow on land, they defy There's room for two groups and it has toi lets but capture in the water. no running ,vater. Cooking water can be obtained JUNCAL CAMP will be found where the Santa from the main stream of the Santa Ynez not too far Ynez River is crossed by Juncal Road. Wa ter is from the camp. piped into this camp, and it is large enough to ac Just before P-Bar is MID SANTA YNEZ CAMP. commodate six parties. There are clean toilet facili Situated on the river, it offers space for on ly one or ties. No trailers are allowed. two parties. There is no running water piped in The next camp downstream is on a short road here, but as at P-Bar, water may be easily obta ined running due north at th e junction of AGUA from the river. Farther down the river road is CALIENTE CREEK with the Santa Ynez River. MONO FLATS, an exceptiona lly fine camp for It is just behind the Pandola Guard Station. The large groups. There is good swimming in the pool camp can accommodate two groups. below Mono Debris Dam. Trailers are allowed Back on the Santa Ynez and below the Agua here; there are six regulation stoves and good toilet Caliente jun ction there is a camp along the river facilities. 24 Streams that Feed the Santa Ynez Mono Debris Dam offers a challenge to campers at Mono Flats. The climb to the top presents problems at the start. The reward is a good swimming hole behind the dam. One of the most popular fishing and hunting Buckhorn Creek. You can also walk to this creek areas within the forest is along the upper Santa from the Mono area . Cruz Creek, wh ich enters the Santa Ynez from the Above Gibraltar Dam are Mono Creek and its north near Gibra ltar Dam. It runs through private tributaries, the Indian and the Buckthorn. East of ranch land until it enters the forest boundary sev the Mono and upstream are Agua Cal iente Creek eral miles north of the river, and for that reason, and its main tributary, the Little Diablo. The latt er the forest trai l to the best part of the creek is long stream travels from the east until it meets the Agua and difficult. Calie n te ju st above the silt dam. A good way to get to the upper Santa Cruz is by From the north slope of the Santa Ynez Moun way of the Little Pine Trail running north to the tains, Escondido Creek makes its way down to the top of Little Pine Mountain from Upper Oso Santa Ynez River. It runs through Blue Canyon Camp. At Little Pine, you turn west and walk over and joins the river near the reservoir behind Gi a rough trail to the upper Santa Cruz. braltar Dam. Blue Canyon has two camps in the Another area to be entered from this trail turns heavy trees on the slope and it once suppo rted a off to the east across the top of Little Pine Moun homestead. The Forest Service burned the build tain and continues over a big basin to the top o[ ings several years ago to el imin ate a fire hazard. 25 Los Laur eles Creek is a fine fishing creek- but had worn out their welcome on ranch lands by its entrance at the south side of the Santa Ynez run s leaving tin cans and garbage on the trails, this creek through ranch prop erty and is posted with "no was very popular. There are still fish in great trespassing" signs. Years ago, before the city folk abundanc e in the stream. Deep, clear swimming holes that never go dry· can be found all along Oso Creek behind Upper Oso Camp. The road beyond the camp boundary is closed to hikers during the fire danger periods. 26 The trail to Little Pine Mountain begins at Upper Oso Camp. It is an easy day's walk to the top and back. Along Oso Creek Above and to the west of Oso Creek on the way to Little Pine Mountain, there are severa l small meadows containing spring fed pools. Turtles abound in these cool waters. 27 A popular swimming hole is just below Mono Debris Dam. Mono Flats Full of Interest The adabe building at the bottom of Mono Flats was built around the tum of the century. It is now used by the Forest Service. 28 Above Mono Debris Dam is the trail up Indian Creek. The stream contains many tree-shaded pools ideal for a cool dip on a warm day. 29 Andy Chavez and Kenny Frecia get ready for a swim in the pool below Mono Silt Dam . The boys were on an overnight trip with a Camp Conestoga group. 30 An easy one-day trip into the back country above wish to make an easier climb, there are trails lead the Santa Ynez River can be made from Upper ing up the hill at tl1e north of the camp, and a road Oso Camp. A trail leads due north along Oso around the east side of the hill that will bring them Creek to the short trail leading to the first primi right down lo the stream bed above the dam. tive camp at Nineteen Oaks, where springs flow Mono Debris Dam was built to collect the silt from the high meadow and down into the camp. running down Mono and Indian creeks. It was There are two picnic tablN in the oak grove, and planned that this dam would have a long and use a good stove with a cement trough for stock. The ful life keeping the reservoir behind Gibraltar camp is on a short spur above the trail. This main Dam free from a build-up of silt. This was not the trail continues on up toward Little Pine Moun case. In 1931, a fire in the Mono and Caliente tain. It is a good horse .trail but has several shale areas burned off thousands of acres of brush and ledges that are dangerous unless both horse and timber. The following winter heavy rains carried rider are trailwise. The distance is about seven the unprotected soil down these streams in a miles from Oso Camp to the top of Little Pine. muddy avalanche. The Mono and Agua Caliente Happy Hollow is a primitive camp just off the silt dams filled up within a few days an~ the con summit. There are remains of a stock corral, and a tinuing rains carried the mud and silt on down into regulation stove is at the site, but it is not desig Gibraltar Reservoir. Before the rainy season was nated as an official camp on Forest Service maps. over, Gibraltar had lost half its storage capacity. It To make a complete circle and see ne,v country remained that way until a cap was added to the top on the return, you can take the Alexander Trail of the dam in 1950. Both the Mono and Agua from the saddle at the western slope of Little Pine. Caliente silt dams remain full, their usefulness lost This is an easy horse trail back down to a ridge to until the silt is removed from behind them. the west of Oso Canyon. It returns to the trail at the point where Camuesa Road turns east. Camuesa Just behind Mono Flats and within walking dis Road, closed to automobiles, provides good footing tance, there is a hot spring. A road branches off just for horses right to the top of Camuesa Peak, di a short distance above the dam leading right to it. rectly north of Gibraltar Dam. Keeping to the A locked gate bars the area to automobiles. north fork of this road will take you to the top of The road leading north past PENDOLA Little Pine Mountain. And, if y~u travel past the GUARD STATION is usually open to automo road up Camuesa Peak on its eastward leg, you'll biles as far as another hot spring. This pleasant and reach Indian Creek just above Mono Silt Dam. therapeutic pool is kept in good condition by the Because there are so many trails to travel, and Forest Service. Water from ·above has been piped so many attractions along the way, no attempt is to a small cement basin. There is a tiny dressing made here to plan for stopping places for over shelter for men and women. In dry years the pool night camping. Before making such a trip, consult has a sulphurous smell but is remarkably clear and the maps, acquire a current Forest Service map, hot when the winter rains have been heavy. mark it with information from these pages and Above the hot springs pool the road is often plan your stops carefully. A mistake in your timing washed out by winter rains and is not always in might put you on rough terrain at nightfall still driving condition. However, it is not more than a miles from a place to cook and camp for the night few minutes' walk to the AGUA CALIENTE SILT in reasonable comfort. DAM. The road makes a good trail, or one can There is reason for the popularity of MONO walk up the creek bed. In wet years the water con FLATS. Youngsters want to climb up the cliffs at tinues to spill over the dam as long as the forest is the side of the dam to see what is behind. If they open. 31 In full bloom the Yucca, sometimes called God's candlestick, adds beauty and grace to many of the most rugged mountains in the back country. 32 The Rugged San Rafael Mountains A giant valley oak frames Zaca Peak in the San Rafael Range. The view is north on the Figueroa Mountain Road in the Santa Ynez Valley. High peaks , often covered wit h a mantle of snow, by the Forest Ser vice as shelter for rangers who rise majestically behind the Santa Ynez Va lley. patrol the area during the hot fire-dangerou s sum These are the San Rafael Mountains. Some of the mers. BLUFF CAMP, just below th e summit county's finest scenery is in the canyons and along of Big Pin e Mountain, is one of the se. It must have the sides of these p in e covered slopes. Here are been a real hermitage, for it is hard to believe that streams that run throughout the year, the home of a homesteader could get his family to li ve in a native trout sought by ardent fishermen . place so far remov ed from the rest of the wor ld. Trails form a connecting network throughout An exciting trail to follow is the one that leads this range. The scenery ranges from desert plateaus from the Cachuma Guard Station, over Cachuma covered with sagebrush and yucca, to heavily for Mountain to San Rafael Creek. Ju st about all the ested slopes; spark lin g streams and dry washes are wildlif e repre sentative of the forest will be en equally representative of this area. countered here, for the trail is seldom used by man. Hiking the remote tra ils, you will come up on It is well marked , howeve r, and water from sweet, cab ins marking the location of a long-go ne home cool springs will provide the traveler with plenty stead or ranch. Some of the cabins are kept up of refreshment along the way. 33 The road to Zaca Peak runs across the Figueroa Calway where a magnificent vi1,w of the inner San Rafael Range may be seen from between the tall pines. 34 The long ridg e of Big Pine Mountain is seen here from the Potrero Seco Trail. The County's Mountain Backbone A fire-blackened pine stands in sta rk relief aga inst th e peaks and canyo ns lhat form th e backbone of the county. 35 Red Rock quicksilver mine is a deserted ruin, near Figueroa Mountain. The road through Happy Canyon, beginning sites with several accommodations. Figueroa Camp where State Highway 154 crosses the Santa Ynez is being enlarged and will be completed in 1963. River, lead s to the camp sites and picnic spots in The road continues past the camp to Figueroa the Figueroa Mountain area. Beyond the last ranch Mountain where another bran ch, to the right, in Happy Canyon, a good dirt road winds over the takes you to Figueroa Looko ut , where in a high Cachuma Saddle. Worth noting as you pass is forest of huge yellow pines, there are tables and the Red Rock quicksilver mine. The dilapidated accommodations for day camping. buildings still contain parts of the original retort Return ing to the main road and continuing on and crusher used in the process of freeing the another mil e brings you to a sign pointing to the liquid metal from the cinnabar. The steep cliffs Catway between Figueroa and Zaca peaks. This in the area are a dark red typical of mercury-bear delightful road runs through a heavy stand of fir ing ore. Before the climb to the mine, you will and spruce and at one point crosses a saddle which reach CACHUMA CAMP where there are several in springtime is covered with flower ing lupine. good camp sites and a strea m that run s for most of There are two picnic spots along thi s short road. the year. This is a Forest Service camp complete At the end of the good road, a jeep road, usually with regulation cookstoves and garbage cans. The open, continues op to Zaca Peak and offers a good road leads up the hill to Cachuma Guard Station, view of Zaca Lake, the only natural lake in the and then forks . A turn to the left leads over the top county. Th e lake and the property around it are of pine-covered Ran ger Peak and on to JUNC under priv ate ownership and closed to entry. Re TION CAMP and neighboring FIGUEROA turning along this same road . brings you to the CAMP. Both of these camps are in pleasant wooded Catway turnoff from the main road. Continuing 36 Campsites in the forest are often surprisingly comfortable. This camper finds a well• made picnic table at a site miles from any road. westward on thi s road wi ll brin g you down from year -ro und . Facilities are ade qu ate for comfortab le the San Rafael Mountain s to th e Santa Ynez Valley campin g. at Los Olivos. From _Dav ey Brown, the road continu es on dow n This trip is easily taken by aut omob ile in six Davey Bro wn ·C~nyon to where the stream flows or seven hours and will allow amp le tim e to stop into Manzana Cree k. Ju st beyond the jun ction is and view the back coun try from many points along N IRA CAMP. This is also an excellent spo t for the way. It is worth whil e to drive to th e top of fishermen , for the Manzana Canyon exten ds in Figueroa Lookout, from where a commanding both dir ections and is easily walked. A locked gate view of the inn er San Rafae ls ope ns before you. A at the end of the camp is posted with the notice je ep trail leads from the end of the Catway down that no vehicular travel is allowed beyond the to Davey Brown Creek; don 't go thi s way unl ess gate . Thi s is the entran ce to th e San Rafael Primi you do have a jeep, for th ere are many steep grad es tive Area. I t is also a base camp for those who want and shar p, soft eart h turns. to take the man y trails int o the main fores t areas. Back at th e Cach um a Gua·rd Station, the road Hurri cane Deck, a hi gh, windswept ridge of leadin g straight ahead goes on to DA VEY BROWN rocky outcroppings, can be reac hed from here by CAMP. Here the fishin g is good during the trout two trail s. You take off ju st beyond FISH CREEK season. Th e streams are stocke d with catchabl e CAMP, a primitive site alon g the Manzana, up trout, and the many trails up and down stream stream from Nira. To get to Hurricane Deck along lead to excellent fishing spo ts within walking and this trail , you continue past Fish Creek Camp for wad ing distance of th e cam p. In th e early part of about a mile to Sulphur Sprin gs Canyon which the year swimmin g is wond erfu l; the area is ope n enter s Manzana Ca nyon from the northeast. The 37 Deep pools and rocky banks mark the length of Sulphur Springs Canyon Creek, one of the streams that empty into the Manzana above Nira Campground. 38 Young backpackers take "time out" for a brief rest along one of the trails. Each year thousands of youngsters like these enjoy the benefits of the great forest preserve. On overnight hikes such as these boys are making, the lessons of conservation and self reliance are learned first-hand . 39 The dead hulks of old forest giants provide good nesting places for birds atop Big Pine Mountain in the San Rafael Range. 40 .~M .:.'--.~ -~ • ... . -...-_·:.. ..·...... -· Bald Mountain in the San Rafael Primitive Arca offers little sustenance to even the hard iest specimens of native growth. The Primitive Area of the San Rafaels Hurricane Deck's windswept skyline is sel dom viewed by traveler s though access to the area is not difficult for experienced hikers. 4 1 For the Adventurous Hard-to-find Pool Rock, in Lost Valley Canyon , is well named. Rains fill the deep basin, worn in solid rock , to make an ex cellent swimming hole. Rock-pierced , brush covered slopes are typical of the inner San Rafaels. 42 The trail down Lost Valley Canyon. trail up Sulphur Springs Canyon is not mark ed, n cane Deck. There is no water available in th e but by continu ing upstream, you will eventua lly ar ea, so before attempting the long day 's tr ek be be on top of Hurri cane Deck at a point just due sure you hav e a ful l canteen as well as a map and west of White Ledge Canyon . This canyon leads compass. There are no campsites in thi s area and from the Deck down in to the Sisq uoc. fires are not per mitted. Another way to get up on Hurricane Deck is A few hardy and adventurous parties camp over by the Lost Va lley Canyon jeep road. This road night in this beauti ful yet desolate terrain , but has been abandoned, but it is easy walking and it is a co ld place on a sp ring night and one needs provides an entrance to the sandstone reefs and a warm sleeping bag. caves on the sout h slopes of the inner San Rafael Many archeological discoveries ha ve bee n mad e Range. Many of the short canyons that lead off on th e Hurri cane Deck, he lpin g to fit I gaps in the to the north from this road contain caves decorat ed hi story of th e Indian tribes of the Santa Barbara with pictographs by th e Indians who lived in the region. One such find brought to light a myst ery. area hundr eds of years ago. A smal l band of Indians bad cached food con In one of these smal l canyons is Pool Rock, a sisting of seeds and nuts in baskets. Th ese baskets gTeat mass of sandstone on top of which is a larg e were found inta ct in the wind ho llows of a huge basin holding water long after the year's rains have sandstone formation. Other signs of Indian habi ceased. There are cairns along the way to guide tation were pr esent at the site but archeo logists those who wish to search for it. who surveyed the area could find no tra ce of burial Continuing along Lost Valley Canyon Road grounds or oth er evidences of a permanent com brings you to the end of the canyon where the road munity. The food had been set aside for future begins a series of switchbacks up one side of the use by a rather larg e band of redm en: What had canyon wall. At the end of the switchbacks is Hur- happened to th em that prevented their return? 43 / (' \ ~ .,...... _._...... ;..,._...... ,..._ / . '.. Manzana-Fisherman's Creek T he deep canyon of Manzana Creek and it s A good trail follows the creek and th ere is a primi coo l waters pro vide fishermen with a taste of real tive camp at th e site. Also on the trail is FISH mountain fishin g. Catchable tro u t are dumped int o CREEK CAMP - nam ed for the sma ll stream that the stream near Nira Camp severa l tim es a year ente rs int o th e Manzana across from the campsite. and the tim e of planting is usually ann ounc ed This camp offers room for only one party. ahead of the day in area newspape rs. This brings Alders lin e mu ch of th e Manzan a like sent in els, fishermen in large number s to N ira and Dav ey the ir tall thin trunks and ligh t foliage adding Brown Camps . beauty to th e trail. Often, the fisherm en are wa iting downstream Not too far upstrea m from N ira , th ere is a fine wh en the plantin g of catchable s is mad e. Onl y the spec im en of valley oak . One of th e largest in th e least hungry of the fish make their way beyond county, it spreads its bran ches over hundr eds of these eager sportsmen. Tho se that d o, have a squar e feet of gro und. chance to surv ive the year and spawn to add to the In addition to game fish, ther e are cra yfish, native fish far up str eam. frog s, toads and even turtle s in the Manzana. The Manzana runs westward throu gh deeply Bear s roarp. throu gh thi s area , but are seldom seen. wooded canyons from its beginnin g betwee n San A careful check of the footprints in th e sand s at Rafael and McKinl ey mountain s. Many parts of the edges of lar ge poo ls will reveal th e pr esence of the stream's canyon ar e narrow and deep. The many anima ls. Youn gsters on nature trek s into thi s pools are cool and clear at the Narro ws, reac hed by part of the fore st often carry plaster of par is with walking upstream from N ira for abo ut seven mi les. them to make casts of th e anima l print s. 44 Hikers start out from Nira Camp to walk up the Manzana trail. Beginnin g on a jeep road, the trail cuts over to the broad , wooded valley alon g the stream. It is one of the most pleasant walks in the fore st. 45 Hikers on the trail above Manzana Canyon rest at a sandstone formation; many youngsters prefer to believe it is a dinosaur egg. 46 Clear water runs along a solid rock stream bed on the upper Sisquoc, the county 's most beautiful and secluded river. The Hidden Sisquoc A wond erfu l trek from NI RA CAMP is the long is a primitive site named ABEL CANYON CAM P. walk to the upp er Sisquoc. A trail leads down About two mil es upstrea m is SYCAMORE CAM P, stream along the Manzana, and at the juncti on of loca ted wher e Big Bend Ca nyon comes clown from the Manzana and the Sisquo c, turn s east, upri ver th e San Rafae ls. on the Sisq uoc. Right where the tr ail turns The Sisquo c River is one of the most bea utifu l is desert ed Manzana Schoolhouse. Abandoned be strea ms in Santa Barbara Co unty and each bend fore the turn of the cent ur y, it once served the in th e trail brin gs to view a new waterfall or poo l. childr en o f homestea ders al I along the Sisq uoc Th e river is wide in places, nar row in oth ers; th e Valley. canyon is filled with breathtakin g variety . Th ose A goo d horse trai l leads up the Sisquoc , but re who have made th e tre k into this secl ud ed wild er quires a long day to arrive at the first camp. Thi s ness never forget its wild beauty. 47 Rattlesnake Creek tumbles over ribbons of rock to join the Sisquoc as it run s to the sea. 48 A ranchyard in Santa Barbara Canyon, one of the many canyons that drop to the Cuyama Valley from the top of the Sierra Madres. Top of the County, the Sierra Madres U nlik e the pine covere d peaks o f the San Rafae l Ran ge, the Sierra Madres rise from can yon and valley to for m broad grass covered potreros at the ir tops. Majestic oaks with strong wid e-spreading branches grow between wind -sculptur ed sandstone rocks. These rocks are tim ewor n reefs of sedimen tary deposit s thrust up milli ons of years ago when the ran ge was form ed . Ind ians of the C uyarna Va lley and the Sisq uoc area have left in dicat ions of their presence in paint ings and artifac ts in th e rocks. Many imp ortant artifacts - well pres erved in th e dry caves of the canyon walls - have give n a good und ersta nding of the cultural diff ere nces between the Ch um ash Rattlesnake s are plentiful in the Sierra Madres, trib es and other Indi ans of Ca liforni a. and will most often be seen during hot weather. 49 Scoured by the winds, these rocks atop Salisbury Potrero make an inviting viewpoint for man or beast. No public road ope ns to this wildernes s atop th e way 399 at the sum mi t ol: Pine Mo untain . T his range , for her e the entr ances to the Na tiona l Forest is mostly pri vate ran ch lan d an d only a small por run through pri vate ranch land s off the Cuyama tion of the potrero is in the nati ona l fores t. Con Valley. For thi s reason, the Sierra Madr es have tinu ing westward there is Santa Barb ara Pot rero, kept mu ch of their natural bea ut y. Salisbury Potrero , Round Potrero and Mont T here are several camps alon g the main rid ge, gome ry Potr ero . Beyond these ope n meadows the maintain ed by the Fores t Service. Parti cular ly in mountain s becom e more ru gged and r ise to 5,747 teresting is PAINTED ROCK CAMP at Mont feet at McPh erson Peak an d to 5,837 feet at Peak gomery Potrero. Located und er a grove of gian t Mountain. From here on there are areas covered oaks, thi s camp conta ins two fine cookstoves and with pin es. Nea rer to th e poin t where th e Cuyama is fenced to keep out catt le. It offers easy access to R iver cuts thro ugh the range the moun tains are Painted Rock. On ce the home of many In dia ns, the heavi ly wooded and conta in many trail s and camp rocks now contain the nests of thousand s of dart ing sites. These are reached from Tep usquet Ca nyon cliff swallows . and La Brea Creek off the Sisquoc. CO LSON CAN At the far eastern end of the county is Potr ero YON PUB LI C CAMP is at the west end of th e Seco - dr y potrero - leading off from State High - Santa Barbara Distri ct and can be reached by auto- 50 Lion Canyon, seen here from the top of the Sierra Madres, is one of many nearly impassable canyons running down to the Cuyama Valley at the northern border of Santa Barbara County. On the far side of the valley rise the mountains of San Luis Obispo County. mobil e from ju st west of Sisquoc on the Foxe n Plann ed for th e fu ture recrea tion needs of Canyon Road. BARR EL SPRI NGS CAMP and South ern Cali fornia is a publi c roa d across thi s LAZY CAM P are along La Brea Creek but are lovely mount ain range. It will enter on th e east more easily re ached by horseback fro m the Sisqu oc. thro ugh Santa Barbar a Canyon and will probably A trail throu gh this area, across the peaks and on continu e on down to th e Cuyama. Lovers of the down to Cuyama Vall ey, ends at PI NE CAN YON wildern ess hope this clay will never come, for such GUA RD ST ATIO N . a road would spell doom for th e un spoiled beaut y Sweet flowing sprin gs are foun d all along th e of these mountain hidea ways. Sierr a Madr es. T he pot reros ofte n contain marshy Ca ttl e are everywhere along the top of th e Sierra areas - headwa ters of th e creeks that flow dow n to Ma dres, for Cuyama Valle y ran chers have held th e Sisq uoc. grazing r ights to th ese mountain po treros since From Sant a Barb ara Potr ero, there are tr ails that the creat ion of the nati onal forest. Small island s of lead to the upp er Sisqu oc and its fishin g camps. p rivate land dot the potr eros. Win dmill s and a few Best of th ese tr ails trave ls dow n Jud ell Canyon. corr als and buildin gs add int erest to the land scape Oth er trail s lead down from both Salisbu ry and an d with th e beau ty of plant s and fanta stic ro ck Mont gom ery Potreros to the Sisquoc Ri ver. form ations, offer many subj ects for camera fans. 51 The Forest Service camp at Painted Rock on Montgomery Potrero is in one of the most remote reaches of the Sierras Madres. The area is rich in Indian paintings. Mountain Potreros Seldom Seen , ••. .~ - ,· ~, ~+:k To find Indian paintings, every cave must be examined closely. 52 Junctions, such as this where the trail in the Slerra Madre Potreros meets the trail to Big Pine, give the back country traveler his exact location. 53 In deep, narrow canyons, lush stands of fem tell of a plentiful water supply. Such locatfons are all too rare in the Santa Barbara back country. 54 Nature's Bounty 1n Plants The beauty of the Santa Barbara back country is to be found in its sma ll as well as larger aspects. The grandeur of the mountain masses, rock forma tions and cliffs, brushy slopes and forest ridges is mat~hed by the loveliness and color of the wild flowers, birds, reptiles, amphibians , and insects. Tall tiger lilies grow in cool moist canyons. More people are beginning to notice such things and to recognize vario us species, thereby addi ng greatly to their appreciation and enjoyment of the world around them. The regions of the chaparral - the elfin forest - have often been dismissed as dull and unint eresti ng brush. No notion could be more mistaken, for they are in reality places of wonderfu l color and var iety. Many species of sage grow in the chapar ral. The commonest , Purple Sage, is a bushy plant growing three or four feet tall with long flowering stems . The lavend er colored flowers and the soft green foliage cover large areas, especially on the coasta l mountain s. In contrast is the small Chia Sage wit h its dark purple blossoms flecked sparse ly with Tiny blossom of the stonewart is delicate in bri ght blue . This plant is more abundant on dry color . Below: The presence of a butterfly in a inland slopes, and is noteworthy because the seeds remote wilderness glade will make one think of were used for food by the Indi ans . In more shaded a well cared for garden at borne. areas the beautifully named red Hummingbird Sage is found in abundance. Two shrub s brighten the roadsides wit h bright yellow flowers. They are the Fremontia or flannel bush and the bu sh poppy. Fremontia, named for the famed explorer, has darker yellow flowers up to two inches across and its leaves are thick and hairy on the und ersides. The bush poppy, light er in hue, offers the added attraction of bloom ing throughout the year . It occurs throughout South ern California but is especiall y fine in the Santa Barbara country . 55 Dwellers 1n the Wilderness A favor ite flower of the warm dry regions is that plant of th e lit era l name , woolly blue curls. From a rounded fuzzy center of light b lue, the oddly shaped purpl e blue petal s extend. Protruding from these is a cluster of slender, shiny, bright blu e No bigger than your thumb, this young tree stamen s which curl gncefully at their tips. frog stares accusingly at his captor. The bu sh monkey Hower is another bright blos som of the trail and roadsides. It is a yellow flower with a lon g tube-like shape . Shades of pink and mag enta are added to the di sp lay by phl ox or gilia blo ssoms and the beloved chaparral pea. Many other flowe rs bri ghten the open fields of the white oak-st udd ed lower valleys and th e sa vannah hi llsides of the lower foot hi lls. \Ve find the famous Ca lifornia poppies and several variet ies of lupine, the baby b lue eyes and lovely little yellow pansy violet which chi ldren sometime s call Johnny jump-ups. Canyon trails are bede cked with other typ es of blossoms. The long-stem med blu e Brodiaea is found here as well as in mor e ope n places. The The horned lizard is suspicious-and shows it. Below: a common king snake, friend of man. bri ght cr imson Indian paint bru sh and th e dark tipp ed pink shootin g sta rs attract the eyes as do th e blue tones of the lily-like blue eyed grass and th e rich blue lark spur . For some, th e fun of walkin g among the flowe rs and shrub s of the back countr y is spo iled by fear of the presence of snakes and lizards. But incr eas in gly, this fear is being replaced by a more healthy int erest in these inn ocent creat ures as people learn more abo ut th em. Aside from th e da ngero us, com mon , and easily identified rattlesnake, there are several beautifully marked reptiles in th ese mou n tains. The yellow and brown gop her snake is the largest; it is a clean and bene ficial repti le. 5G A wise old mountain traveler enjoys the cool recess of a small cave near San Marcos Pass, while his young mistress studies the Indian pictographs. Mystery Surrounds With pigm ent s made of ground rocks, char coa l, and vegetabl e dyes, th e Chuma sh Indian medi cine man painte d symb ols on the wall s and ce ilin gs of Work of Early caves in the mo untain s. U nd oub tedl y man y of them ha ve a r eligious significan ce. Some, we know from th e signs, have to do with dir ect ions, passage Indian Painters of time, and huntin g. But any re al und erstandin g of th e signifi can ce o f th e comp lex designs executed by th e an cient tri besmen is lost in tim e. A bin de r of anim al fat was used to mix th e pi g ment to a paintin g consisten cy. Appli ed with a bru sh o f hair s, feath ers or fra yed stick, th e color stru ck into th e roc k. R eels ar e still th e b right est and have re main ed after oth er colors have faded. A few exa mpl es still show traces of black, whit e, blu e an d green. 57 • • • • "' •..... • , ••. ,.•• • . .. A drawing made from a faded pictograph in a mountain cave above Goleta, shows the intricate patterns of animal forms created by early Indians. Below: a photo~raph of a pictograph on a cave wall. 58 Hidden canyons in the San Rafaels often contain caves that were sought out cen• turies ago by the area's primitive residents. This outcropping contains several caves in which fine specimens of Indian art may be studied. Tracing a Stone Age Culture Indian s ground meal from acorns in mor tar holes cut info rocks. This rock contains dozens of grinding holes . 59 Author-illustrator Campbe ll Grant, who lives in the foothi lls behind Carpinteria , has spent severa l years searching out the cave paintings of th e van ished tribes who once populated the Santa Barbara back country. With camera and brush he has recorded the dec orative sym bols on a ser ies of panels which will go on display at th e Santa Barbara Museum of Nat ural History. After study and analysis by ant hropo logists and ethnol ogists, it is hoped these copies of pelro glyphs and pictographs will reveal some now un known aspect of Indian life and cultur e. 60 Artfully fashioned beads of shell, bone and other materials are often found in burial sites by archaeolo gists. Artifacts Tell Us How the Indians Lived Santa Barba ra Indi ans were ma sters in the art of carving huge sto ne bowls but knew nothin g about pott ery. 61 forced to live by a regular routine - a challenge they had never had to face. Before too many years passed, great numbers of the Indians had died of smallpox and other diseases brought by the white man. Others ran away into the mountains. Records at the Old Mission in Santa Barbara note only a handful of births to the mission Indians over a period of several years. While the Spanish made few observations of the life and culture of the Indians, archaeologists have pieced together a fairly complete record of the manner in which these people lived. From the kitchen refuse left at village sites along the sea coast, it is known that mollusks, fish and sea mammals were the staple diet. Huge, finely shaped stone bowls attest to the expert and am bitious craftsmanship of these people. The City of Carpinteria got its name from the Indians ·who were seen by the Spanish while mak Wilderness ing planked canoes of exceptional craftsmanship. Beads, charmstones and many other objects un earthed throughout the county testify to the In Dwellers of dians' interest in form and design. Their work shows far more sophistication than is seen in simi the Past lar objects from neighboring tribes. It is to be regretted that many of the most notable finds have been made by pothunters for Along Santa Barbara County's coastal strip, on private collections. Without full knowledge of the Channel Islands, and in the mountains to the where, how, and under what circumstances they north, traces of early Indians are common. Nearly were collected, the objects are worthless except· as every corner of the county, no matter how re keepsakes. mote, contains sites of former Chumash villages. In Santa Barbara's back country, Indians lived Spanish explorers who sailed up the California on the meat of wilcl animals supplemented by the coast gave mention to the peaceful, friendly In edible fruit, nuts and berries of plants. dians of the mainland and islands. They called As you walk along a trail, it is not uncommon to them Canalifios, or Channel people. find a fragment of a stone bowl, or an arrowhead The first permanent colonies of Spanish settlers of chert or obsidian. These are often washed out from Mexico noted villages in many places along of the· soil by rain. the coast from Carpinteria to Surf - and along the Today it is hard to believe that the part of Santa fertile valleys inland. The city of Santa Barbara Barbara County that is now wilderness once sup now extends over two such villages, and the largest ported many Indian villages. Game of all kinds was on the Pacific coast 'Yas on Mescalitan Island in the plentiful - deer, mountain lion, bear, badger, rac Goleta Slough, partly covered today by the munic coon and many other animals were all about. Tt1ere ipal airport. is evidence that elk, mountain goats and even the Zealous efforts of the Spaniards to turn these wooly mammoth may have been part of the food simple savages into Christians caused them to all supply of the ancient dwellers in these mountains. but disappear ip a few short years. Walk over the trai_lsin the back country and you Men and women were separated when they were walk in the path of history. Early American settlers, brought to live in compounds at the Old Mission the Spanish before them, and the Indian, all used and at the missions near Lompoc and Santa Ynez. these same trails. Walk a trail to its end and you'll There they were taught useful trades and were surely find indications of these former ·residents. 62 £ i nu fO!REST$ ,.. ~-.-..,. .. -.·-11.;;:;:;;;:;a;::::==-===-- Good Manners •1n the Forest As the attractions of the back country come more with especial care. Children should be instructed to the attention of the public, it is inevitable that in their proper use as soon as the camp is reached. it will be subjected to increased use. This is likely There is great danger from fires in the dry back to result in the destruction of the very things for country. Fire permits are required of all ca.mpers. which the area is admired. Outdoor good manners No open fires are allowed anywhere in the forest. become more and more important. One disastrous brush fire could destroy the beauty Most public campgrounds in the Los Padres Na of the country for many years to come, to say noth tional Forest are already overcrowded. Garbage ing of the incalculable damage it could do to the disposal is probably the main problem. Most of the water resources of the entire county. camps are provided with garbage cans which sho_uld Plants and wildlife need protection, too. Cutting be used, with care being· taken to replace lids trees and wild flowers are actions that hurt every firmly. In places where this service is not provided one. The right to live of all the wild creatures or where the disposal receptacles are full, a few should be respected. Laws protect animal life, but common-sense rules chould be followed. cooperation and understanding are needed to There are three kinds of trash in any camp: Pa other living things. An always proper maxim of per cartons, etc., which can be burned; food wastes outdoor good manners is, "Don't kill anything you which will rot and should be buried a good distance don't intend to eat." from the camp; and such things as cans and bottles A final word of special application to this area which will neither rot nor burn and should be is that such things as Indian artifacts and historical carried home to be disposed of there. relics are to be protected. The Antiquities Act pro Toilet facilities in the camps should be used hibits their removal or destruction. 63 t9 ~ \;1 • • '\ •t'' , 4.'.,, I I I . ,, I ' it..\ ,, /•, 't ) • ~ ~ ~ , . "'ff}, ,. ~\ '\ ) . ~ ..~-, ' ,..,,... ) --~ f.~·~~ I ' , ~1• ' ~-..·--~ .J . . ,\ ..., . . • ' • RECO~/lMENDED READING PACIFIC COAST BEACHWALKER'S GUIDE , by Dick Smi th and Frank Van Schaick. A basic handbook for the identification of the pl ants, animals, and shells found along the shore and in the tide pools and shallow waters of the We st Coast. Large format, 64 pp., illustrat ed with photos and drawings . paper, $ 1.95 CALIFORNIA'S BACK COUNTRY: The Mountains and Trails of Santa Bar bara County, by Dick Smith and Frank Van Schaick. An exploration of a wild and beautiful country, detailed for the first time by an experienced writer-photogra pher-naturalist-explorer team . Large format, 64 pp. , illustrated with maps, ph .Jtos, drawings. paper, Sf 95 CALIFORNIA'S SEA FRONTIER-Part I. The Channel Coast, by Mab el Rockwell . A scientist turn ed report er offers a study of the men who make their living or find their pleasur e on the sea off California's coast , in the waters of the Santa Barbara Ch ann el. Large form at, 64 pp., illustrated with maps, photos , drawings. paper, $1.95 SANTA BARBARA YESTERDAYS, by Walker A. Tompkins. The "American Era" of Santa Barbara's history provide s the materi als for more than half a hun dr ed stories, essays, and voyages into the pa st. Large format, 72 pp., illustr ate d. paper $1.95 OLD SPANISH SANT A µ ~R BARA , by W alker A. Tompkin ~. The romantic days of the Spani sh d-,·. .. ,1 5 • vividly to life. A compa ni cn book to Santa Barbara Yeste rday s. paper $1.95 Mc .llally and Loftin I Pu,blisher s CHARLOTTE/ SANT A BARBARA