‘B’ FOR DE THAT TIME BLASIO

AGAIN THE NEW MAYOR OF MEN’S WEAR BRANDS AND RETAILERS NEW YORK GETS A ARE UPBEAT ABOUT 2014 AS PITTI UOMO B-MINUS FOR STYLE. WWDIN FLORENCE LOOMS. PAGE MW1 PAGE MW2

THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

CASHING IN ON DEMAND Fashion’s 2014 Trend: Stock Market Listings

billion raised via 46 offerings ver- By VICKI M. YOUNG sus $9.9 billion raised through 15 IPOs in 2012. INVESTOR CONFIDENCE is back There was no shortage of fash- in the equity markets. ion and retail companies going If 2013 was a watershed year in public last year. Nine companies the initial public offering cycle, successfully completed their IPOs then 2014 could see more firms in the U.S. and overseas, with the eyeing the stock market. U.S. market leading the way with According to IPO investment six. All had at least the partial advisory firm Renaissance Capital, backing of financial sponsors — global IPO issuance rebounded in either through private equity or 2013, with annual IPO proceeds firms that had been venture capi- increasing 37.5 percent to $137 bil- tal funded start-ups — and all lion. That’s the largest rise in pro- were partial flotations. ceeds since 2004, when U.S. IPOs First out of the gate last year had annual proceeds totaling $51.9 was beauty firm Coty Inc. on June billion. That was the year that saw 13, raising nearly $1 billion. Lapo Google’s $1.7 billion IPO. Elkann’s Italia Independent Group Print Medley The Renaissance report noted was next, listing on ’s AIM that North America was the “larg- for small-cap stocks on June 30, est contributor in IPO issuance” raising $20 million. last year. Increased activity in the Coupon site RetailMeNot Inc. Pattern play, from tie-dye and tropical to animal and black and U.S. led to a 28.9 percent gain in was the first out in the second half, white, offers a strong counterpoint to summer’s whites. Here, proceeds raised in the region, or raising $191 million on July 19. Pierre-Louis Mascia’s nylon jacket, Nico’s silk crepe and cotton top $51.7 billion compared with $40.1 Then there was a lull until Oct. 2, billion raised in 2012. In 2013, when Burlington Stores Inc., for- and Pleats Please’s polyester pants. Le Buisson earrings; Julien North America also saw an 81.3 merly Burlington Coat Factory, David scarf; M/M rings. For more, see pages 4 and 5. percent jump in the number of went public and raised $226.6 mil- companies hitting the stock mar- lion. The much anticipated IPO of ket, or 145 firms that completed Twitter was next on Nov. 7, rais- IPOs versus 80 in 2012. ing $1.8 billion. Children’s e-com- In the Asia-Pacific region, IPO merce flash-sale site Zulily Inc. proceeds raised inched up 7.7 raised $253 million when it went

percent to $44.9 billion as 91 firms public on Nov. 15. CALLISTE. went public, one company more Boca Raton, Fla.-based pri- FOR than in 2012. That region was im- vate equity firm Sun Capital pacted by a shutdown of China’s Partners saw two of its portfolio

A-Share IPO market as the coun- firms complete their public mar- GRIGORIS try put a hold on equity offerings ket debuts. Women’s value retail- BY to redo the regulatory framework er Bonmarché Holdings, which for stock market listings. Europe Sun’s affiliate Sun European MAKEUP saw a pickup in offerings as the Partners acquired in January region moved past the effects of 2012 (which is not related to the the 2011 sovereign debt crisis. Le Bon Marché department store CALLISTE;

The continent saw IPO proceeds in Paris), floated on London’s FOR almost tripling from 2012, or $26.9 SEE PAGE 6 KAZUE DEKI BY HAIR PARIS; MODELS CONNOLLY/CITY EVE PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER MODEL: 2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 WWD.COM Revlon’s China Exit Reflects New Strategy THE BRIEFING BOX It’s a very mixed picture....We’re really focusing on IN TODAY’S WWD By MOLLY PRIOR who are our core customers there, how can we part- and VICKI M. YOUNG ner with them to drive productivity in the store — be- cause in China, it’s really a question of productivity.” AFTER STRUGGLING to grow its business in On Tuesday, the beauty firm said in a regu- China in recent years, Revlon Inc. said Tuesday it latory filing with the Securities and Exchange A pre-fall look from will exit the country and trim 1,100 jobs as a result. Commission, or Form 8-K, that the restructuring Peter Jensen. For The decision marks the first major change in of operations will result in job losses primarily in more collections, strategy under the company’s newly installed chief China, including 940 beauty advisers retained indi- see WWD.com. executive officer Lorenzo Delpani, who joined rectly through a third-party agency. Revlon through its October acquisition of The The company said it expects to incur about $22 mil- Colomer Group. lion of pretax restructuring and related charges, such As early as last spring, Revlon warned analysts as severance costs and sales markdowns and invento- that its business in China was strained, and since ry write-offs. It expects to record a charge of $20.9 mil-

then the company has worked to reduce inventory lion in December 2013, and the balance during 2014. JENSEN levels there as sales have slowed. The restructuring actions are expected to gener-

In April, Chris Elshaw, Revlon’s executive vice ate annualized cost reductions of $11 million, with PETER president and chief operating officer, told Wall Street $8 million to benefit 2014 results. OF analysts during the company’s first-quarter earnings In 2012, Revlon did not break out its sales in call that in the second half of 2012, the company’s China, but the company’s net sales in Asia Pacific sales in China began to decelerate as the economy gained 2.4 percent in 2012 to $238.9 million, com- COURTESY slowed. At that time, he said Revlon began “proac- pared with $233.4 million in 2011. Excluding the fa- PHOTO tively reducing inventory with our distributors.” vorable impact of foreign currency fluctuations, net The actions continued throughout the year. In July, sales increased 1.9 percent in 2012, driven by high- Elshaw told analysts, “Our consumption is soft in er sales in Japan and certain distributor territories If 2013 was a watershed year in the initial public offering China. There are a lot of changes in the marketplace. and offset by a decrease in net sales in China. cycle, then 2014 could see more firms eyeing the stock market. PAGE 1

Revlon Inc. said Tuesday it will exit China and trim 1,100 jobs Cambodia Minimum Wage Hike for Feb. as a result. PAGE 2

The government’s concession nouncement], but we have to com- “Buy, buy, buy” is still the mantra for some companies, By DENE-HERN CHEN Tuesday came after a week of ply because we are investors who whether for public firms looking for growth or financial investors PAGE 7 nationwide demonstrations by must comply with the law,” Loo hoping to unlock greater value down the road. PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — more than 300,000 workers, caus- said. “I think it will make it worse.” The Cambodian government ing a halt in the garment sector Kong Athit, vice president Ports 1961 for fall 2014 will introduce its first women’s has increased the monthly mini- as manufacturers cited fears of of the Coalition of Cambodian handbags designed by creative director Fiona Cibani. PAGE 8 mum wage for garment workers damage to their factories. Apparel Workers’ Democratic to $100 instead of the original The chairman of the Garment Union — one of the unions that Last-minute holiday shoppers, many of them in search of gift amount of $95. Manufacturers Association in has been taking part in the pro- cards, elevated sales increases during the week of Christmas to According to a statement re- Cambodia, which represents the tests — said $100 a month is still their highest levels in December. PAGE 8 leased late Tuesday by the Ministry country’s exporting factories, has too low to meet the rising living of Labor and signed by Minister Ith costs of workers. Actress Kirsten Dunst has been named the first L’Oréal Sam Heng, the wage raise would be “The stance of our workers is Professionnel spokesperson. PAGE 8 instated in February. that they are demanding $160. If “The raising of the minimum we don’t get $160, we will contin- Tommy Hilfiger hosted a lunch for incoming Saks Fifth Avenue wage will be implemented from $100 ue to protest,” Athit said, prom- president Marigay McKee at his vacation home. PAGE 8 Feb. 1, 2014,” it said. “[All em- ising that demonstrations will ployers] must effectively imple- MONTHLY MINIMUM WAGE FOR continue today. Soaring business in the U.S. helped the Italian men’s wear ment this decision from now on.” Despite this apparent im- CAMBODIAN WORKERS AS OF FEB. 1. industry in 2013, and executives are generally hopeful about The government originally passe, Dave Welsh, country head PAGE MW1 said last week that the monthly of the Solidarity Center — a prospects for 2014. minimum wage of $80 for gar- said that $10 million to $15 mil- labor rights organization affili- ment workers — who make up lion is lost each day the factories ated with AFL-CIO — said the Henrik Lundqvist, the goalie for the NHL’s New York Rangers, Cambodia’s $5 billion garment remain shuttered. government’s concession is help- has entered into a partnership with Swedish men’s underwear industry — would be increased Ken Loo, secretary general of ful to the negotiation process. and bodywear brand Bread & Boxers. PAGE MW2 by $15 to $95 and implemented in the association, said he feared “The difference is sizable April 2014. Workers and indepen- such a concession would show the from what the unions and work- Prada will open its second Florentine store during the Pitti dent unions rejected this amount workers that continuous protests ers are demanding, but at least it Immagine Uomo trade show. PAGE MW2 and called instead for a dramatic could get them what they want. shows that they [the government] raise to $160. “We are surprised [by the an- are willing to negotiate,” he said. Andreas Melbostad will unveil his first Diesel Black Gold men’s wear collection at Pitti Uomo. PAGE MW6

A look at some up-and-comers as well as those making their Arrest Orders Issued in Tazreen Factory Blaze men’s debuts at Pitti Uomo. PAGE MW8 the workers attempting to escape the flames could ON WWD.COM By MAYU SAINI not leave the factory and the ground floor area was blocked by supplies and bags stored near the stair- IN THE FIRST hearing after the police filed a case. Workers jumped from the first- and second- RUNWAY: See the latest reviews and runs of show for the charge sheet in the Tazreen Fashions Ltd. fire, a war- floor windows trying to flee, and more than 200 pre-fall collections, including Peter Jensen. For more, rant for the arrest of the owner and managing direc- were injured in the process, with some losing limbs see WWD.com. tor of the company, Delwar Hossain, has been issued. and in near fatal falls. The warrant was issued Tuesday. Arrest or- The 13 accused were charged under Section 403 ders for five others have been issued, including of culpable homicide under the Code of Criminal TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Hossain’s wife and the chairman of the company, Procedure. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Mahmuda Akter, all of whom are said to be on the Workers have continued to call for justice over the COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. run at this time. last 13 months, staging protests and negotiating with VOLUME 207, NO. 1. THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Three other Tazreen employees, including the government authorities through trade union leaders. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance factory manager and the production manager, who “It is a relief to see that workers are being Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, have been charged, have also absconded. treated as human after all,” said Mohammed Altaf, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, The fire at the factory on Nov. 24, 2012, resulted a worker in the Ashulia area, who told WWD that and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West in the death of more than 112 workers. The charg- many garment workers had begun to fear entering Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, es sheet for the deaths accusing 13 people from their workplaces after Tazreen and several other Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. Tazreen was issued on Dec. 26. fires that have broken out in garment factories com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service Only one of the 13 accused has been arrested. over the last year. In addition, the collapse of Rana address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within Workers who have been agitating for the arrest Plaza on April 24 left more than 1,131 dead and one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever of Hossain said employers and factory owners have hundreds injured. dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new largely been impervious to the law since many of Tazreen manufactured garments for Wal-Mart subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please them have close links with politicians and that this Stores Inc., &A and other international compa- call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS was a sign of the changing times for the industry. nies and workers have been calling for internation- Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our One reason police and the judicial system are al retailers to compensate workers who have been subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest recognizing the responsibility of the factory own- affected by the incidents. Last week a $40 million our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR ers is the international attention the tragedy has fund was set up by international retailers includ- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED received and the outrage over the fact that fire ing Primark, El Corte Inglés, Loblaw and Le Bon TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, exits had been locked by managers of the factory Marché, although there are calls for more interna- UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND even after smoke was spotted from within. Many of tional retailers to contribute to the fund. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BONUS SHOW DISTRIBUTION

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For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected] 4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014

Surface to Air’s cotton shirt and Roseanna’s silk pants. Le Buisson earrings; Filip Von Polen scarf; M/M rings.

Printing Ahead IT’S ALL IN THE MIX — OF PATTERNS, THAT IS. THIS SUMMER, THE MASH-UP OF MOTIFS PROVIDES A VIBRANT ALTERNATIVE TO PURIST WHITES.

PHOTOS BY FRANCK MURA; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Katrien Van Hecke’s La Prestic Ouiston’s silk hand-dyed silk T-shirt pajamas and Heimstone’s and Innamorato’s cotton shirt. Vintage cotton Bermuda shorts. scarf; Purified sandals. Falerio Sarti scarf.

Lyubov’s polyester silk Raquel Allegra’s tie- shirt and Sonia by Sonia dye cotton jacket, Rykiel’s cotton jersey Yazbukey’s cotton pants. H&M socks. T-shirt and Cher Michel Klein’s cotton shorts. CALLISTE FOR GRIGORIS BY MAKEUP CALLISTE; FOR KAZUE DEKI BY HAIR PARIS; MODELS CONNOLLY/CITY EVE MODEL:

6 WwD thursday, january 2, 2014 IPO Fever to Continue in 2014’’ {Continued from page one} high and investors will like it.” AIM on Nov. 20, raising $64.4 million. While it isn’t clear which firm could Contemporary brand Vince Holding be the next stock market darling, there Corp., which Sun acquired through its are already a handful that could be acquisition of Kellwood Co. in 2008, fol- poised for an IPO this year. lowed on Nov. 22 on the New York Stock In the pipeline in the U.S. is Claire’s Exchange, raising $200 million. Inc., the teen accessories retailer ac- Last but not least, Moncler SpA finally quired in 2007 for $3.1 billion by private surfaced on Milan’s stock market on Dec. 16, equity firm Apollo Management. Claire’s and its much-anticipated IPO raised $1.08 on May 3 filed to raise $100 million in an billion, including an over-allotment option. IPO. The filing said proceeds will be used Both Coty and Moncler, each raising to repay debt. in the $1 billion range, were the largest Overseas, online fashion e-tailer IPOs in the fashion and beauty space Boohoo.com, based in Manchester, since Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. raised $944 million in its December 2011 flota- tion in Hong Kong. As long as designers With the exception of Coty, which has faced challenges in the mass fragrance and nail categories, all the other new and operators can keep stock market listings in 2013 have seen

their share prices trade slightly higher ilder developing concepts H than their opening day closes. The new en B fashion stocks have been boosted in part that will make people by by the rise in all major global market in- Vince executives celebrating the IPO. dices last year. photo Outside of the IPOs last year, several buy what they want stocks in the fashion and retail space worst performers for the year, down 84.4 Ltd., down 37.5 percent, and King Fook saw gains. percent to 75 cents as the firm tries to Holdings Ltd., down 34.9 percent. Others and not just what they In the U.S., shares of Zale Corp. saw right the ship, exploring options that in- listed on international markets that saw a 284 percent jump to end the year at clude the sale of the company. declines in 2013 include Li & Fung at need, margins will be $15.77 as it continues to see same-store As for sectors, the teen specialty re- 24.9 percent, Mulberry Group plc at 18.2 sales growth, while Fifth & Pacific Cos. tailers as a whole saw double-digit per- percent, Prada SpA at 6.6 percent and high and investors Inc. came in second, with a 158 percent cent losses in share price during 2013. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA gain to end the year at $32.07, boosted Leading the losers were Abercrombie at 2.2 percent. by the sale of its Juicy Couture brand & Fitch Co., down 30 percent to $32.91; Still, it is the stellar success of the will like it. and the completion of the sale of Lucky American Eagle Outfitters, falling 28 per- Kors IPO, as well as the $209.4 million Brand coming up in the first quarter. cent to $14.40, and Aéropostale Inc., los- raised by Brunello Cucinelli in Milan — Richard Kestenbaum, Cache Inc., which saw operating metrics ing 30.1 percent during the year to end that followed in April 2012, that in- improve, rose 181 percent to $5.43. at $9.09. The Wet Seal Inc. and Urban creased investor attention in the fashion Triangle Capital There were losers as well, though. Outfitters Inc. fared better, down 1.1 per- sector last year and will likely continue Among those firms that saw their shares cent to $2.73 and 5.7 percent to $37.10, re- to do so in 2014. This attention is expect- England, plans to go public during the heading south in 2013 was Lululemon spectively. Pacific Sunwear of California ed to come not only in the form of more first quarter. Up in the air is London- Athletica Inc., down 22.6 percent to Inc. was the exception, up 110 percent to IPOs, but also private equity firms look- based House of Fraser. While a flotation end the year at $59.03, hurt by the back- end the year at $3.34. ing to take stakes in fashion companies could be possible by springtime, there’s drop of a weak fourth-quarter selling On the international front, Safilo as they trawl for the next Michael Kors a chance the chain could be acquired environment, anticipated change in its Group SpA was the top performer, gain- (see sidebar). instead as Galeries Lafayette is in talks chief executive officer and execution is- ing 155.3 percent for the year, while Richard Kestenbaum, a partner at in- to buy the department store chain. And sues, such as that surrounding its Luon Brunello Cucinelli SpA jumped 94.1 vestment banking firm Triangle Capital, Russian online fashion e-tailer KupiVIP yoga pant. J.C. Penney Co. Inc. saw its percent and Salvatore Ferragamo Italia said that provided the fickle IPO window is eyeing an IPO this year on the New shares fall 53.6 percent to $9.15 at year- SpA rose 68 percent. While Luen Thai stays open, “there’s no reason why inves- York Stock Exchange. ’’ end due to all the trials and tribulations Holdings Ltd. was the leader on the tors won’t continue to like fashion and In October, Raffaele Jerusalmi, ceo of from the return of former ceo Myron Hong Kong Stock Exchange, up 140.7 retail. As long as designers and opera- ’s Stock Exchange, said that up to six “Mike” Ullman 3rd, questions about its percent, that exchange also saw a num- tors can keep developing concepts that luxury goods and fashion firms are look- turnaround and an intra-board fight. ber of laggards last year. Among those will make people buy what they want and ing to list in Milan in the first half of the Coldwater Creek Inc. was one of the were Trinity Ltd., down 45.5 percent; I.T not just what they need, margins will be year. He didn’t disclose any names, but 2013: The Year in Stocks

AMONG THE LEADERS 2013 close Change AMONG THE LAGGERS 2013 close Change INDICES 2013 close Change Zale Corp. $15.77 283.7% Coldwater Creek Inc. $0.75 -84.4% S&P 500 Retailing Industry Group 939.81 43.9%

Cache Inc. $5.43 181.3% J.C. Penney Co. Inc. $9.15 -53.6% Dow Jones Industrial Average 16,576.66 26.5%

Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc. $32.07 157.6% American Eagle Outfitters Inc. $14.40 -47.1% S&P 500 1,848.36 29.6%

Safilo Group SpA (euros) 17.00 155.3% Debenhams plc (pounds) 0.73 -33.6% FTSE 100 (London) 6,749.09 14.4%

Luen Thai Holdings Ltd. (Hong Kong dollars) 2.72 140.7% Aéropostale Inc. $9.09 -30.1% CAC 40 (Paris) 4,295.95 18.0%

ASOS plc (pounds) 61.24 127.6% Abercrombie & Fitch Co. $32.91 -30.0% DAX (Frankfurt) 9,552.16 25.5%

G-III Apparel Group Ltd. $73.79 115.6% Li & Fung (Hong Kong dollars) 10.00 -24.9% FTSE MIB (Milan) 18,967.71 16.6%

Ted Baker plc (pounds) 22.90 110.2% Lululemon Athletica Inc. $59.03 -22.6% Nikkei 225 (Tokyo) 16,291.31 56.7%

Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. $3.34 110.1% Elizabeth Arden Inc. $35.45 -21.2% SSE Composite (Shanghai) 2,115.98 -6.7%

Facebook Inc. $54.66 105.3% Perry Ellis International Inc. $15.79 -20.9% Hang Seng Index (Hong Kong) 23,306.39 2.9%

NOTE: Stock prices are given in dollars unless otherwise indicated. Percent change compares closing value on Dec. 31 versus Dec. 31, 2012. Prices have been adjusted for splits and dividends where applicable. On Tuesday, the euro traded for $1.38 against the U.S. dollar, the pound for $1.65 and the Hong Kong dollar for 13 cents.

w02a006(7)a;11.indd 6 12/31/13 5:57 PM 12312013175818 WWD thursday, january 2, 2014 7 A spring 2014 WWD.COM look from Moncler, the last fashion their IPO preparation. much capital.” company to Given the old saw about how fash- According to Wells Fargo go public ion is too risky a business to invest in, analyst Evren Kopelman, The New Offering Tally in 2013. the interest of investors in new issues “One of the themes is the IPO Fever to Continue in 2014 raises the questions “why” and “what lack of growth for most of the company initial price 2013 close high and investors will like it.” has changed.” companies [already public]. While it isn’t clear which firm could Ron Friedman, the retail practice These firms are not small Coty Inc. $17.50 $15.25 be the next stock market darling, there leader and partner-in-charge of the anymore, and it’s harder to are already a handful that could be Southern California region for financial grow from a larger base. The poised for an IPO this year. services firm Marcum LLP, attributed the [new issues] are still growing. Italia Independent Group 28.55 euros 39.29 euros In the pipeline in the U.S. is Claire’s interest to the new business model that That’s why these firms are Inc., the teen accessories retailer ac- vendors now have, compared with when being received so well.” RetailMeNot Inc. $26.50 $28.79 quired in 2007 for $3.1 billion by private they were just wholesale firms. “Investors She added that fashion equity firm Apollo Management. Claire’s are excited about the better brands and right now occupies a unique Burlington Stores Inc. $25.10 $32 on May 3 filed to raise $100 million in an the high-end luxury group because when spot: “These contemporary IPO. The filing said proceeds will be used they open their own brick-and-mortar brands have found a good to repay debt. stores, they get high margins and high space between the designer Twitter Inc. $45.10 $63.65 Overseas, online fashion e-tailer profitability. That’s something many in- price points and the more Boohoo.com, based in Manchester, vestors have never seen before when accessible price point of a J. Zulily Inc. $39 $41.43 vendors were mainly wholesalers. Now Crew and Banana Republic.” they’re seeing tremendous profits coming According to Kopelman, if giannoni Bonmarché Holdings 2.14 pounds 2.33 pounds As long as designers out of these vendors.…Even if consumers Vince continues to perform pull back on their spending, those that well over the next few quarters, Vince Holding Corp. $28.48 $30.67 giovanni [have and continue to open] their own that should make the invest- and operators can keep by stores still see high gross margins.” ment community even more re- He explained that typically the oper- ceptive to the next few fashion Moncler SpA 10.20 euros 15.80 euros developing concepts photo ating cost to run a store is 30 percent for firms to go public in 2014. noted that a few are looking to quote on rent and payroll. That means gross mar- Citigroup analyst Oliver the euro traded at $1.38 tuesday, while the pound traded at $1.65. that will make people the exchange’s AIM market for small-cap gins of up to 70 percent. “Even if there’s Chen said the emergence of stocks. Potential listers include luxury a downturn, if a company can keep op- omnichannel has provided an goods makers that are part of the ex- erating costs [at its retail stores] at 30 additional reason for companies to go pub- investors on the Street seem to [correlate buy what they want change’s Elite program, which helps them percent and gross margins at 50 percent, lic, since these smaller firms need capital with] instant success, even though con- navigate their growth phases with an eye they still make a profit.” to help them grow and open new stores. sumers have no meaningful awareness and not just what they toward a possible listing down the road. For Antony Karabus, president of “Going public gives them the ability to in- of these companies when they go pub- Others said to be closely eyeing the Hilco Retail Consulting, smaller aspi- vest the dollars that they get to focus on lic.” He believes that luxury firms, which need, margins will be public markets this year — most likely rational brands such as a Vince or Tory global store expansion as well as online. I “don’t engage in high-low or in-season in the back half — are Pinterest, J. Crew, Burch can do well since their distribu- think we will continue to see capital rais- promotions, or promiscuous distribu- high and investors Gilt Groupe and Alibaba. On the media tion isn’t yet ubiquitous, giving investors ing [particularly since] there’s been a sta- tion,” capture the attention of investors side, digital lifestyle network firm Glam “a lot of runway for growth because they bilizing employment picture and healthy because they know that these high-end Media is said to be preparing for an IPO. are growing both wholesale and retail. momentum in S&P performance.” firms target consumers who are willing to will like it. Beyond 2014 are Italian fashion Many can grow wholesale faster than re- Mark Cohen, Columbia Business spend a little more because they’re buy- firm Pianoforte, likely in 2015, and tail, which gives investors some cushion School professor, said, “Everybody is try- ing an “element of exclusivity in fashion — RichaRd Kestenbaum, Marc Jacobs, possibly as early as 2016, because even if there’s less margin than ing to find a way to locate the pot at the and quality.” as Jacobs and LVMH, a substantial from a freestanding store, they can still end of the rainbow. People like Michael — With contributions from tRiangle capital stakeholder in the brand, work on open a lot of wholesale doors without Kors have set an expectation that a lot of Arnold J. KArr And E VA n clArK

England, plans to go public during the first quarter. Up in the air is London- based House of Fraser. While a flotation the common stock of Sequential. could be possible by springtime, there’s Citigroup analyst Oliver Chen expects to see a chance the chain could be acquired M&A Still in Vogue more activity on the M&A front and for initial instead as Galeries Lafayette is in talks public offerings. “We should continue to see to buy the department store chain. And BUY, BUY, BUY. a healthy IPO market and a healthy mergers Russian online fashion e-tailer KupiVIP That’s still the mantra for some companies, and acquisitions environment. There are is eyeing an IPO this year on the New whether for public firms looking for growth or opportunities for companies looking to grow York Stock Exchange. ’’ financial investors hoping to unlock greater through M&A, and for many to get attractive In October, Raffaele Jerusalmi, ceo of value down the road. valuations in the public markets,” he said. Italy’s Stock Exchange, said that up to six In 2013, it was financial players that did Investors in Europe are eyeing potential luxury goods and fashion firms are look- some of the biggest fashion deals of the year. deals in the burgeoning contemporary and small space ing to list in Milan in the first half of the The biggest was the $6 billion acquisition of affordable luxury space. Among the names year. He didn’t disclose any names, but Neiman Marcus Group by Ares Management said to be readying for a sale process or LLC and the Canada Pension Plan Investment actively hunting for investors are Carven, Board. Other notable transactions include Eleven Paris, Chattawak, Sud Express and Sycamore Partners’ $2.2 billion purchase of Tara Jarmon. The Kooples, a fast-growing The Jones Group Inc. and its $600 million buy contemporary chain, has attracted unsolicited M/A Deals Still in Vogue of teen retailer Hot Topic Inc.; Apax Partners’ offers from private equity firms. House of takeover of teen retailer Rue21 Inc. for $1.1 Fraser, which is eyeing the public market, billion; TowerBrook Capital Partners’ purchase is also in talks to be acquired by Galeries of True Religion Apparel Inc. for $824 million Lafayette. And Versace is said to have and the acquisition of Lucky Brand from Fifth & narrowed its short list of potential investors Pacific Cos. Inc. for $225 million by an affiliate down to a group that includes CCMP, of private equity firm Leonard Green & Partners. Investcorp and The Blackstone Group. Not to be outdone, strategic players were In the U.S., Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang and also busy. Thakoon are seen as attractive targets, given the The Richard Baker-led Hudson’s Bay Co. buzz around advanced contemporary, although bought Saks Fifth Avenue for $2.9 billion; LVMH they may not be interested in a new investor. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired an 80 Nanette Lepore, also in the contemporary market, Big percent stake in for $2.6 billion; The is mulling over investor options to help it expand. Swatch Group Ltd. purchased Harry Winston for While Sycamore Partners keeps coming up as $1 billion, including debt, and Hanesbrands Inc. the private equity firm still on the prowl for more paid $583 million for rival Maidenform Brands. deals, strategics such as G-III Apparel Group Ltd. There was also increased activity this year and VF Corp. are names also mentioned. G-III from brand management firms — the new was on the hunt for Jones Group before dropping Business acquirer model operates as a strategic, but out, while VF earlier in the year was in talks for can have the backing of a financial sponsor — Australian surf brand Billabong. seeking intellectual property assets to license Activist investors are also pushing public out. Authentic Brands Group, which counts companies to create shareholder value, often WWD Marketplace is the premier destination Leonard Green & Partners LP as a majority times in the form of putting themselves on the investor, acquired the IP assets of Juicy market. One example was Jones Group, after Couture from Fifth & Pacific for $195 million. activist investor Barington Capital Group needled for the industry’s classified and career listings. ABG was particularly active in 2013, buying the company to boost results. The Clinton Group seven other brands, each for an undisclosed is exploring financing alternatives to taking The amount: Spyder Active Sports, Muhammad Ali, Wet Seal Inc. private, while Eminence Capital Elvis Presley, Graceland, Judith Leiber, Taryn has been pushing The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. Rose and Adrienne Vittadini. to negotiate a deal with its suitor, archrival 800.423.3314 Sequential Brands Group was another busy Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc., which submitted dealmaker on the brand management front, a nonbinding offer of $2.4 billion. In an ironic acquiring the Revo sunglass brand for $20 million, twist, Men’s Wearhouse turned the tables and wwd.com/marketplace as well as the Franklin Mint for an undisclosed offered $1.54 billion to acquire its suitor, an amount and the Ellen Tracy and Caribbean Joe offer that Jos. A. Bank turned down. brands for $62.3 million in cash and 2.8 million in — VICKI M. YOUNG

w02a006(7)c.indd 7 1/1/14 1:29 PM 01012014133053 8 WwD thursday, january 2, 2014 WWD.COM Ports 1961 to Expand Accessories Memo pad 1,600 euros, or $2,187. In addition, the York, Bergdorf Goodman, Louis Vuitton, FIRST TIMER: Kirsten Dunst has been By ALESSANDRA TURRA company will launch a new version of Carolina Herrera, David Yurman and named the first L’Oréal Professionnel its Blouse No. 10 to be sold at about 600 Kate Spade. spokesperson. The actress will front MILAN — Ports 1961 is launching an ac- euros, or $820. “We will also refurbish the Paris and the launches of Wild Stylers from cessories business. According to Cibani, the expansion of New York stores with the new concept,” Tecni.Art, Beach Waves and Absolut From fall 2014, the brand will introduce the accessories business will help create said Cibani, who affirmed that the com- Repair Lipidium in 2014. its first women’s handbags designed by solid relationships with stores and boost pany is looking for new locations in both “I feel very close to L’Oréal Ports 1961 creative director Fiona Cibani. the company’s wholesale business. Ports London and Milan and plans to open a Professionnel,” said Dunst. “The Paying homage to the brand’s signature 1961 collections are sold in 80 doors around second store in New York. brand is strongly connected to fashion, Blouse N.10 white cotton sartorial blouse, the world, including Neiman The firm is due to hold its and I admire its commitment to the line will be called No. 10 Bag and will Marcus in Los Angeles, Bosco first men’s wear runway show innovation, constantly creating new include four styles in different color and di Ciliegi in Moscow, Quartier this month during Milan Men’s professional services and products to material variations. In February, the com- 206 in Berlin and Harvey Fashion Week, after several achieve the most on-trend styles.” pany will give customers a preview of the Nichols in Kuwait City. seasons of presentations. Anne-Laure Lecerf, international di l first collection at Milan’s high-end bou- The company, which in Although Ports Design Ltd., l managing director of L’Oréal tique Banner and at the company’s flag- 2011 relocated its headquar- the holding company that owns Professionnel, praised Dunst’s “timeless ships in New York and Paris. ters from New York to Milan, Crista Ports 1961, mainly commercial- beauty,” adding, iero P

“We are recognized as a ready-to- also continues to invest in izes its medium-high line Ports “She has a strong rofessionne P

by

wear brand, and until now we did acces- its retail business. In fall International in China, which ac- l personality and Fiona Cibani sories to complete the look,” said Ports 2014, Ports 1961 will open a counts for the bulk of the group’s réa makes her own O photo

1961 general manager Salem Cibani. 19,376-square-foot flagship on sales, the main markets for Ports L’ choices. Her great

“With this launch, we aim to introduce Shanghai’s luxury shopping street West 1961 are the Europe, Middle East and for professionalism a stand-alone collection of bags, which Nanjing Road, along with a unit in Hong Africa regions and the U.S. and commitment will be clean, minimal yet elegant, ex- Kong. These flagships will feature the Cibani said Ports 1961 has consis- to excellence make rookes B tremely functional and with an incred- new store concept conceived by Yabu tently been logging double-digit growth Kirsten one of the ible high quality.” Pushelberg, the design firm founded by and that the brand accounts for 5 per- [most] talented , as are Ports 1961’s Toronto-based George Yabu and Glenn cent of total revenues of Ports Design actresses I have Matthew

women’s and men’s rtw collections, the Pushelberg, who developed a series of Ltd., which last year posted net profits by ever met. She capsule will retail from between 600 retail projects for international clients, of 425.87 million Hong Kong dollars, or Kirsten Dunst has the perfect

euros, or $820 at current exchange, and including Lane Crawford, Barneys New about $55 million. photo attributes to embody the new values of L’Oréal Professionnel.” gift cards rose to 23.7 percent this year, Dunst’s long list of films includes the highest on record. “Interview With the Vampire,” ICSC: Xmas Week Sales Strong “This is good news, as it means that for which she got a Golden Globe the ‘extended season’ — the weeks after nomination; the “Spider-Man” trilogy, logged during the second and first weeks Christmas into January — will play an and “Marie Antoinette.” She was named By ARNOLD J. KARR of the month, respectively. important role in the final tally of the best actress at the Cannes Film Festival The sequential improvement as season’s performance,” Niemira said. in 2011 for her role in “Melancholia.” LAST-MINUTE holiday shoppers el- December progressed gave Michael Week-by-week trends weren’t as strong, She will appear as a lead in the thriller evated sales to their strongest increase Niemira, vice president of research and according to the survey, with last week up 1 “The Two Faces of January,” due out in of the month last week, with gift cards chief economist of ICSC, cause for op- percent from the preceding one, when sales 2014, and this month is to begin filming playing a critical role. timism for the remainder of the month. improved 1.4 percent over the week before. the sci-fi movie “Midnight Special.” According to the International Coun- ICSC expects the increase for December Sales for the week ended Dec. 14 were up Dunst has directed two films — cil of Shopping Centers and Goldman to land at between 3 and 4 percent. 4.8 percent from those of the week ended “Bastard” and “Welcome” — and Sachs Weekly Chain Store Sales Index, “Business was brisk in the final days Dec. 7, and sales during the first week were is involved in numerous charities, sales in retail categories other than res- ahead of Christmas and for the week as a down 1.6 percent when compared with the including the Pediatric AIDS Foundation taurants and automotive areas were up 3 whole,” the ICSC official said. “Now atten- final week of November, which included and The Art of Elysium. — JENNIFER WEIL percent during the week ended Dec. 28, tion turns to holiday gift-card redemptions.” Thanksgiving Day and Black Friday. versus the year-ago week, better than the The ICSC-Goldman Sachs consumer The ICSC-Goldman Sachs survey Mulberry’s Menagerie: Mulberry has 2.7 percent increase logged during the tracking survey found that the average measures same-store sales at brick-and- rounded up a coterie of furry and prior week or the 2 and 1.5 percent gains share of holiday spending attributable to mortar retailers. feathered friends — alongside the Brit model Cara Delevingne — to be the faces of its spring campaign. The ad campaign, which was shot by Tim Walker, steps of City Hall. “This is the first time she has worn anything a regular collaborator of the house, Fashion Scoops of mine as far as I know,” Lepore said. sees Delevingne Over a year ago, Lepore and her husband, Bob Savage, rang up partaking of a de Blasio’s campaign office to invite the then candidate to tour quintessentially their Garment Center office and factory. McCray showed her English tea party support by wearing the Lepore-designed raspberry Skyscrape with characters coat and the jewel-tined Wonderland dress, while her daughter including a opted for a velveteen leopard-printed coat by the designer. tortoise named McCary said that she and her daughter were “proud to wear Pukka, a cockatoo

this beautiful clothing that was made right here in New York called Spud and ker City. This city needs more creative entrepreneurs like Nanette a pony known as l wa

Lepore who are committed to keeping our city’s garment Dusty. Clearly, m industry thriving.” Delevingne doesn’t ti by Reached by phone in Montego Bay, Jamaica, Lepore said pay attention to

after the de Blasio camp the adage about photo reached out a few weeks avoiding working Cara Delevingne for ago, she sent five options with animals, Mulberry. each for the mother- as the model daughter team. “I wanted has already been shot perched on a to make sure we were tree branch, surrounded by owls, for covered,” the designer Mulberry’s fall campaign. Mulberry has said. “I’m watching them also revisited Shotover House, an 18th on CNN and they look century country house in Oxfordshire, great. I’m really happy as the location for the campaign, after that they have made a shooting the fall campaign there. Bryan Adams, John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, Andrew Rosen, Kenneth commitment to New York The campaign was art directed Cole and Andy Hilfiger. City’s Garment Center.” by Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and Stephen Lepore sounded even Wolstenholme of House and Holme, while WARM WELCOME: Tommy Hilfiger hosted a lunch for incoming more excited about the Edward Enninful was the stylist, makeup Saks Fifth Avenue president Marigay McKee at his vacation new mayor’s potential was by Val Garland, hair by Malcolm Edwards es

home in Mustique on Tuesday. This was no ordinary luncheon influence on the apparel g and the set design by Rhea Thierstein. a Im

as it appears several of the fashion industry’s key vendors industry. “I think he Mulberry brand director Anne-Marie joined in the early New Year’s celebration. Andrew Rosen and will celebrate the New Verdin, said that Walker’s work gives “a Kenneth Cole flew in from neighboring island Canouan, and John York that we all miss romantic, literary and very British feel to

Varvatos and musician Bryan Adams, who both have houses on — the New York that att/Getty the Mulberry brand.” Cooke Newhouse Pl Mustique, came, as well as Hilfiger’s brother, Andy. we moved here for, the added: “The spring 2014 campaign was a er — LISA LOCKWOOD New York of diversity c beautiful but naughty tea party with Cara pen S

and craftsmanship. and her ark of animals — the perfect

A FIRST FOR LEPORE: New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio’s Hopefully, he will be by Mulberry moment. They didn’t have the inauguration Wednesday turned out to be a memorable event about supporting more best table manners, but Cara was very hoto for designer Nanette Lepore, who suited up his wife, Chirlane industries and not a P forgiving.” The campaign will break in McCray, and their daughter, Chiara de Blasio. McCray bypassed her few,” she said. Chirlane McCray and Chiara de Blasio in the February issues of U.K. Vogue and go-to dress source, Anni Kuan, to wear Lepore’s designs on the — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG coats by Nanette Lepore. U.K. Elle. — Nina Jones

w02a008b.indd 8 1/1/14 4:01 PM 01012014160330 ones to watch A look at some up-and-comers as well as those making their men’s debuts at Pitti Uomo. Page Mw8

January 2, 2014

BRIGHT SPOTS Strength in U.S. Buoys Business At Italian Firms Luxury brands expect tailored clothing to be big winner in 2014.

by LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Thank you, Uncle Sam. Soaring business in the U.S. helped the Italian men’s wear industry weather a stag- nant local economy and a slowdown in Asia in 2013, and executives are generally hope- ful about prospects for 2014. “The U.S. is the market that is showing the biggest growth, with constant double-dig- it gains in all categories,” said Versace chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris, noting that the brand’s iconic prints, leather products and shoes are hot selling items in the region. The Milan-based firm is also banking on the potential of Japan and Korea, where there is “strong” demand for In the Versace’s men’s wear, said Ferraris, add- ing that there are plans to open dedicated stores in these countries in 2014. But Ferraris is especially optimistic about next year’s debut of Versace bespoke men’s designs. “We are strengthening our [tailored offering],” said Ferraris. Black The brand’s men’s category accounts for 46 percent of total sales, which last “Subversive” and year reached 408.7 million euros, or $523.1 million at average exchange, up 20 per- “irreverent” are cent from 2011. This trend toward more formal looks is the words Andreas exemplified by Brunello Cucinelli, which at Pitti Uomo will double the space of its Melbostad used to booth to present its first collection of suits. The move follows Cucinelli’s acquisition of define the sensibility d’Avenza Fashion SpA for 3.5 million euros, or $4.7 million at current exchange. The of his first men’s wear Italian luxury firm also purchased the com- pany’s property in Avenza, near Tuscany’s collection for Diesel Carrara, where the business is headquar- tered and will continue to be based. The Black Gold, which will Carrara area specializes in men’s suits. The men’s division accounts for 36 per- be unveiled at Pitti cent of Cucinelli’s sales, which last year hit 279 million euros, or $357.1 million at aver- Uomo on Wednesday. age exchange. Although Brunello Cucinelli continues The Norwegian-born to believe in the draw of luxury sportswear as well, the entrepreneur is banking heav- Melbostad is focusing ily on the suit, which he thinks “young men in their late Twenties or early Thirties do on strong silhouettes with not own, unless they are used to dressing formally” on a regular basis. Cucinelli said a nod to the brand’s denim the brand’s suits will be “more contempo- rary, with a fit closer to the body, in line and leather heritage, as with modern taste.” Cucinelli also highlighted the brand’s

seen here in this look from e performance in the U.S., which registered N h a 25 percent jump in sales in 2013. The en- IC e the fall offering. For more trepreneur said this year was a “particu- larly good one for absolute luxury, Made in steve Italy and real craftsmanship,” and conclud- on Melbostad’s debut, by ed that 2014 is equally “looking bright.”

see page MW6. photo {Continued on page MW4}

w02b001a;7.indd 1 12/20/13 7:08 PM 12202013190932 MensWeekCoverUS _CarusoPedro_0000_273x375.indd 1 19/12/13 18.53 Men’s Week WWD thursday, january 2, 2014 MW3 Bread & Boxers Teams Prada Opens New Store in Florence With Henrik Lundqvist by ALESSANDRA TURRA PRADA WILL OPEN its second by KARyN MONgET paign was shot in gothenburg, Florentine store during the Pitti my hometown, so my feelings for Immagine Uomo trade show. HENRIK LUNDQVIST, the goalie southwest Sweden run deep. The Designed by Italian archi- for the NHL’s New york Rangers, vignettes show a lot of waterfront tect Roberto Baciocchi, the has entered into a partnership with imagery.…It’s a genuine depiction 8,180-square-foot boutique un- Swedish men’s underwear and body- of the surroundings, and the product folds over three levels of an en- wear brand Bread & Boxers. is set against a quiet, tranquil back- tire building located at the corner Lundqvist — who has been hailed ground. For this campaign, we want- of Via Roma and Via de’ Pecori. by Vanity Fair magazine as one of ed to evoke my lifestyle back home.” The store carries all of the top five best-dressed men and It’s no coincidence that Prada’s key collections, includ- as one of the most stylish athletes Lundqvist, known as “Hank” to his ing leather goods and accesso- by gQ magazine — will collaborate friends, decided to team up with ries, women’s and men’s shoes, with the brand’s owners Alexander Bread & Boxers. along with women’s and men’s Palmgren and Henrik Lindahl on Lundqvist and Palmgren, the ready-to-wear. a seasonal basis to create capsule brand’s chief executive officer, are The first floor, showing collections and special editions. He friends from gothenburg, where Prada’s signature marble floor will also appear as the face of the they both grew up. in white and black checker- The new Prada store in Florence. brand in visual imagery for advertis- “Knowing Hank for many years, board and walls covered with ing and marketing campaigns and I’ve been fascinated by his ability green fabric, contains the on select packaging for a series of to move between different worlds brand’s leather goods and ac- “Lundqvist’s Favorites.” yet stay true to his values and heri- cessories collections. These are displayed on steel cases with black marble drawers and coun- ters with details in bright colors. A marble staircase takes cus- tomers to the mezzanine level, where men’s and women’s shoes are showcased in a cozy ambi- ence with carpeted floor, light green walls, steel displays and ADA r

green velvet armchairs. P F o

The third level, a wide area y with checkered marble floor S and black marble walls, carries courte

men’s leather goods and con- S tains two other rooms. One is hoto dedicated to women’s rtw and P is illuminated by skylights and metric steel and Perspex tables. leather sofas, as well as metal features a more delicate, lighter The second shows Prada’s men’s and crystal displays. atmosphere characterized by rtw and has a more masculine Prada will host a cocktail green walls, soft velvet sofas ambiance with a dark ebony party on Jan. 8 to celebrate the and armchairs, along with geo- wood floor, colored ostrich opening of the store. rennicke b Man of Jörgen

by THE WEEK Bill de Blasio: B- Photo The touches of gray a larger knot in I love that I can wear the t’s wIth in his neat, trim the tie would haircut give de Blasio a better flatter de jeans and look fInIshed.” distinguished aura. Blasio’s height and girth. But “ — henrIk lundqvIst The suit jacket is too big. the length, The shoulders hang off hitting the belt, Lundqvist said he is pleased “to tage,” said Palmgren. “He’s a suc- his frame and the sleeves is spot-on. move into the creative side of fash- cessful athlete, living a high life in are too long — rookie ion, where ideas and personal style New york, yet he still appreciates sartorial mistakes. come to life. the small but pleasurable things in “I always wanted to be involved life. Hank represents the essence of is that a smartphone in de Blasio’s high in building a brand, but the right Bread & Boxers.” your pocket or are you school classmates opportunity hadn’t presented itself Creative director Lindahl noted, just happy to see us? used to call him until now. The line is beautiful and “Lundqvist always has a positive stash the electronic senator Provolone. comfortable — essential, really — aura that makes people feel good. devices in your interior a slightly looser which is what attracted me to Bread Of course, his sense for fashion jacket pocket. shirt would help & Boxers. I wore the products and makes him extra relevant, but to camouflage his loved them. It’s that simple,” said me, his way of enjoying life is even evident fondness Lundqvist. “The Bread & Boxers more inspiring.” for italian food. collection is both and es- The Bread & Boxers brand was sential, and styled with a clean, created by Palmgren and Lindahl Swedish aesthetic, so the pieces in 2008 after their luggage had been are perfect for me whether I’m trav- lost, and the only clothing they had eling city-to-city for hockey, or just was what they were wearing. As a New York’s new enjoying my time in New york City. result, the two entrepreneurs envi- Sport and style are both important sioned a line of premium bodywear mayor, inaugurated These pants may aspects of my lifestyle.” that would be an extension of a hotel have fit him at He further noted that he “loves minibar — a practical option for Wednesday, tends one point, but a the hand-feel of the fabric, and light travelers or for emergencies. few extra pounds the tailored fit and classic styling. The collection includes boxer toward safe, dull suits now make them There’s really not just one factor.… briefs, T-shirts, tank tops and socks. too tight and a Bread & Boxers is more about all In 2012, a licensing pact was that scream Midtown tad too short. key components creating a perfect signed with United Legwear Co. LLC S

orbi accountant. This is

piece of bodywear.” to be the brand’s distributor and c / The sensible Park Lundqvist’s favorite items are marketer in the U.S. and Canada. S one of the world’s slope walking the boxer brief and two crewneck Isaac E. Ash, president and ceo euter shoes have to go. r

T-shirts — a fitted style with a bit of of ULC, said he sees “great growth D/ great fashion capitals a classic wing tip

elastane, and a relaxed-fit style of potential” from the Lundqvist ree would be much

100 percent organic cotton. partnership. on — time to kick it up more refined and

“I love that I can wear the Ts with “Henrik Lundqvist’s involvement JAS help pull this jeans and look finished,” he added. in the brand is a natural, synergistic a notch, Bill. outfit together. Regarding the ad campaign, partnership, given his Swedish heri- hoto by Lundqvist commented, “The cam- tage and style,” said Ash. P

w02b003a;10.indd 3 12/31/13 3:32 PM 12312013153435 MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 Men’s Week ITALIAN BRANDS FORE

{Continued from page MW1} Stefano Canali, general director of the family-owned Canali, touted the “undis- puted strength of the American market,” which accounted for 38 percent of sales in 2013, compared with 33.5 percent the previous year. Strong brand awareness and established history in the U.S. rewards brands that “have value in the eyes of consumers,” he said, noting a renewed “optimism” in the country, with increased tourist traffic, in- cluding more visitors from China. Canali, which has seven stores in the U.S., including a New York City flagship that opened in April, will continue to invest in directly operated stores there. Plans call for a new unit in Atlanta next year, and the com- pany is searching for a location in Chicago. Canali defined 2013 in general as a “roll- er coaster/inconsistent year, yet one with en- couraging signs.” This comes despite weak- ness in Mainland China, and a relatively flat business in Europe, the Middle East and Africa, or EMEA. The EMEA region account- Spring looks MAESTRI DAVIDE A sport coat ed for 30 percent of sales, compared with 31 from Kiton. from Boglioli.

percent the previous year; Asia-Pacific for PHOTO BY

Barneys.com, a Madison Avenue store Spring looks event and inserts in Departures, Robb Re- from Caruso. port and WSJ magazine. “The results were impressive, benefiting the business areas which received this special focus, such as shoes, accessories, luxury and designer apparel,” said Kalenderian. Renovations in men’s wear in key flag- ships will be completed in 2014. “These improvements in combination with a con- tinued focus on shoes and accessories will contribute to growth,” he said. Among best-selling items, he cited de- signer sneakers, which are “experiencing record growth with strong colors and mate- rials leading the trend. The leather goods trends are impressive in designer bags and small leather goods. Pop colors and fabric diversification have had “positive results.” In addition, watches “were strong with a trend toward vintage watches lead- ing the sales. Outerwear performed very well, with higher full-price sell-throughs.” Kalenderian said the brands leading growth

are a combination of luxury labels as well MITRA ROBERT as designer, such as Ermenegildo , TOMBOLINI , , Kiton, Givenchy, Prada, Saint Tom Kalenderian PHOTO BY LUCA MAESTRI DAVIDE Laurent Paris and Christian Louboutin. Francesco Pesci, ceo of Brioni, highlight- Umberto Angeloni ed a rebirth of formalwear that is younger DESIGNER SNEAKERS, PHOTO BY PHOTO BY and with more fitted silhouettes. The brand, under the ownership of the French Kering LEATHER BAGS, VINTAGE THE MAIN OBSTACLES ARE THE SAME — ITALY’S CLAMMY group, is working on a “strong and direction- al brand identity,” and the development of WATCHES AND OUTERWEAR BUREAUCRACY, A HIGH COST OF WORK AND ENERGY, FISCAL “ its retail chain. “In general, we saw a growth HAVE BEEN AMONG THE in 2013 compared with 2011 and 2012, which PRESSURE AND A NEGATIVE IMAGE OF THE COUNTRY. BUT closed with a moderate and less impetuous YEAR’S TOP PERFORMERS. THERE ARE FAVORABLE TRENDS, BECAUSE OF A MATURE, performance,” said Pesci, adding that until the end of July, growth was “very strong,” — TOM KALENDERIAN, AFFLUENT CONSUMER THAT RECOGNIZES THE EXCELLENCE OF followed by a weaker August. He cited a slowdown in Asia and China in the second BARNEYS NEW YORK ITALIAN MANUFACTURE AND DESIGN.” half of 2013. Pesci said he had faith that 2014 would be a positive year, reaping the re- — UMBERTO ANGELONI, CARUSO wards of Brioni’s retail expansion started in emerging countries, where there is a desire 2013. “I expect a 2014 of robust growth and for more formal suits. stronger than 2013,” he noted. The Neapolitan tailoring company will 23.5 percent, compared with 20 percent in The executive said the company works in inaugurate on Jan. 12, during Milan men’s 2012, and Italy for about 12 percent, in line a medium-range, three-year period, avoid- fashion week, its new showroom and com- with the previous year. ing a change of plans every quarter. At the mercial offices in the more-than-47,000- The company will unveil a new store moment, the challenge is to maintain a like- square-foot building on Via Pontaccio it concept “with a richer, more modern for-like growth, limiting the risk of overex- acquired in November, which previously and exclusive look” in the Chinese city of posure, he added. In 2013, Brioni opened housed the Gianfranco Ferré label for 14 Chengdu in the first quarter of 2014, and an- boutiques in the U.S. in Costa Mesa, Calif., years. The first floor will host a tailor’s shop other unit in Hong Kong’s Pacific Place next Chicago and Palm Beach, Fla.; in Vienna, and a boutique that is expected to open year, Canali said. and in Frankfurt, and also reacquired five within two years. Like other Italian brands, Canali noted franchised stores in China (three in Beijing, Tiziana Cardini, fashion director for increased demand for suits and made-to- one in Shanghai and one in Hangzhou). In La Rinascente, said, “Men’s wear closed measure clothing, as well as more “desire for 2014, Brioni intends to maintain this pace, 2013 with very, very good results, posting softness, comfort and personalized service.” in a mix between new venues and reloca- a double-digit growth,” and said the Ital- Tom Kalenderian, executive vice presi- An image of Caruso’s pop-up book. tions, added Pesci. ian department store was optimistic about dent, general merchandise manager, men’s Kiton ceo Antonio De Matteis character- 2014. “The men’s fashion consumer spend- and Chelsea Passage at Barneys New York, jor renovation of the 20-year-old New York ized 2013 as “an excellent year” globally, ing is expanding, with new markets and said, “2013 was a significant year, as the flagship, as well as an enhanced market- with the U.S. showing the most growth, and new consumers that are open to novelties 90th year for Barneys Men’s,” and “a stra- ing program (via the “Man Up” campaign) was hopeful for 2014. De Matteis said he and edgier offers. There is a desire for fash- tegic focus” on this division benefited from that included a 50 percent larger fashion saw a significant gap between mature coun- ion and style, and often the more difficult, a “comprehensive strategy.” He cited a ma- mailer, greater marketing presence on tries, with a customer that is less formal, and stronger or more interesting offers are the Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 MW5 CAST GROWTH IN 2014

previous year and that, for the first time, exports outside Europe were greater than those within Europe. “Men’s wear continues to be considered the luxury area with the greatest growth potential. While the [casualwear] segment continues to boom, including accessories and outerwear, a strong interest for sarto- rial jackets is returning,” said Umberto Angeloni, ceo of Caruso. Angeloni logged what he refers to as “a very intense” 2013. He took total control of the company, delisted it and inked an agree- ment with an investment fund managed by Fosun International Ltd., which took a 35 percent stake in the high-end Italian men’s wear label in the fall. In 2014, Angeloni will be investing in the “Fabbrica Sartoriale Italiana,” the new name of the company in Italy’s Soragna town, where the production area will be ex- panded by 25 percent in the section dedicat- Gian Giacomo ed to handmade and custom suits, all inte- Ferraris grated sustainably. The current production, with 2,000 models a season and 1,000 made- to-order pieces a month, will be increased — THE U.S. IS THE MARKET THAT IS SHOWING THE BIGGEST engaging more than 600 workers and reach- ing up to 120,000 jackets and coats a year.

MAESTRI DAVIDE “I expect increased press and buyers at GROWTH, WITH CONSTANT DOUBLE-DIGIT GAINS IN ALL A spring look “ Pitti because it is the most important win- from Versace. dow of Made in Italy. At Pitti, we will rep-

CATEGORIES.” — GIAN GIACOMO FERRARIS, VERSACE PHOTO BY

most stimulating and the ones that sell the sic ones. It’s a well-tuned selection that most,” said Cardini. caters to both a local and an international She attributed the success to La Rina- customer base.” She said shoes and acces- scente’s “very comprehensive and strong sories have been “enormously successful,” assortment, from trendy looks to more clas- and sales of these categories for men have been approaching women’s levels. La Rina- scente will unveil its revamped men’s foot- A spring look wear floor in February. The floor is entirely from Brioni. managed by the store, and the offerings span from more classic shoes made by hand to designer brands. Boglioli ceo Giovanni Mannucci said the company in 2013 initiated a turnaround and renovated its design office. He expects to see the first results of this strategy next year. “We forecast a slight growth of between 5 and 7 percent in 2014,” said Mannucci. Sales in 2013 will be in line with those of the previ- ous year, when they totaled 28 million euros, or $45.8 million. Boglioli, which will present its collection in Milan on Jan. 12, has upped “creativity applied to classics and invested in textiles, design and communication, with an eye on our past history of unstructured and relaxed looks,” said Mannucci. Asked to pinpoint the main successful trends, Rosi Biffi, owner of the Biffi and Banner boutiques in Milan, said “a beauti- Brunello Cucinelli ful surprise, fortunately identified in time, was knitwear moved onto outerwear.” Biffi cited the Montgomery duffle coat and GIANNONI GIOVANNI double-breasted jackets with very updated SUITS WILL BE MORE CONTEMPORARY, WITH A FIT CLOSER fits as key hits. “Really a good result,” she PHOTO BY said. “For 2014, we expect renewals in all “TO THE BODY, IN LINE WITH MODERN TASTE.” — BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

sectors, but the main factor will be: fash- resent a concept, that of ‘Manufacturing ionable prices!” Renaissance,’” said Angeloni, who indicated Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti that quality manufacturing is central to the Immagine, Pitti Uomo’s organizing body, success of Italian products. echoed the upbeat mood, based on “objec- At Pitti, Caruso will present a corpo- tive signals,” such as the closing reports of rate pop-up book, titled “Manufacturing fashion trade show Moda Prima that wound Renaissance by Umberto Angeloni,” a look at down at the end of November “with ex- the history of the company from tailor Raffaele traordinary and unexpected results,” which Caruso, who moved from Naples to Soragna bode well for Pitti Uomo. “There was a 30 in 1958, and will examine the sartorial know- percent increase in visitors from 50 coun- how, creativity and technology of the company, tries,” he said, “and the growth of Italians, which has been boosted by Angeloni’s exper- 30 percent more buyers and 28 percent tise as a men’s wear entrepreneur. more companies.” Next year, Caruso’s first flagship will “We must be concrete, the mood is re- open in Milan, followed by units in New cessive and consumer spending has not York, Shanghai and Tokyo. “The main ob- picked up here, but the mood is more posi- stacles are the same — Italy’s clammy bu- tive. Florence is dynamic, brimming with reaucracy, a high cost of work and energy, initiatives and scouting young talents,” fiscal pressure and a negative image of the said Napoleone, adding that, according country,” said Angeloni. “But there are fa- AQUINO JOHN to a study by Milan-based consultancy vorable trends, because of a mature, affluent Pambianco, in 2012, men’s tailored cloth- consumer that recognizes the excellence of

Canali’s New York flagship. PHOTO BY ing was up 5.1 percent compared with the Italian manufacture and design.” MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 Men’s Week Diesel Black Gold

Gets Ready to Rock L ese

by LUISA ZARGANI Stazione Leopolda at 9 p.m. with a OTB. “Therefore, I am particularly DI F o strong focus on music, in keeping glad Pitti chose Diesel Black Gold

MILAN — Andreas Melbostad will with Pitti Uomo’s theme this sea- as this season’s special event, as tesy UR

unveil his first men’s wear col- son, “Rock me Pitti.” Pitti is among the best international o lection for Diesel Black Gold as “I realized rock is also close to fashion moments and our contempo- guest designer at Pitti Uomo on the Diesel Black Gold attitude,” said rary line is perfectly reflected in its Wednesday, and the attention-grab- Melbostad, who in previous shows creative values. Congratulations to GUINDANI/C bing value of this endorsement is worked with tunes from such bands Andreas, from what I already saw he o not lost on the Norwegian design- as Depeche Mode, New Order and will create a spectacular, impactful FAN ste er. “It’s a unique opportunity and The Chemical Brothers. “The emo- show in line with the label’s DNA.”

Andreas by

such a fine stage for Diesel Black tion comes from the recognition of Melbostad defined the show at Melbostad Gold,” said the unassuming and af- the original and iconic tracks, re- Pitti Uomo as “a starting point,” as photo fable Melbostad, who underscored worked and remixed for a new feel- he “brings cohesion and the same the relevance of the “friendly at- ing,” explained the designer. approach to the men’s and women’s with responsibility for the men’s by “lots of metallics and hardware” mosphere” at Pitti Uomo and his “I strongly believe in the Italian collections.” In September, almost wear division as well — marking his and metallic colors such as silver happiness with the organization. fashion system and in the promotion a year after being tapped as Diesel entry into the men’s arena. and gunmetal. Sharp, classic formal Melbostad is planning to pro- of Italian excellence,” said Renzo Black Gold’s women’s wear creative For his first men’s collection, shoes have metallic accents. “This duce a runway show at Florence’s Rosso, founder of parent company director, Melbostad was charged Melbostad focused on the “silhou- is a very good moment for men’s ette [and] construction” and offered wear — an exciting one as men are A fall look from a tailored approach to complement getting more individual in express- Diesel Black Gold. the brand’s denim and leather core ing themselves and taking a differ- components. “A subversive way ent approach,” said Melbostad. and irreverent attitude inform my The designer began his career approach to both the women’s and with Nicole Farhi in London and, men’s collections,” he said. “I look before his most recent assignment at opposing and different textures as creative director of Susan Dell’s in contrast to traditional materials Phi, worked at Guy Laroche, Yves with innovative finishings.” Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein. The designer underscored “ten- Melbostad succeeded Sophia sion between classic and modern, Kokosalaki as the collection’s cre- innovative and aggressive and con- ative director. Melbostad has said servative,” as he played with tradi- he has previously drawn inspira- tional men’s patterns juxtaposed tion from men’s wear “tailoring, with new finishes and research. function and utility. ” The color base is black, lit up The company is mapping out the opening of flagships in London and Milan in the first and second half of 2014, respectively. The London store will be located on Conduit Street. There is one Diesel Black Gold unit in New York, on Greene Street in SoHo, which opened in 2012. The brand is also available in select Diesel flagships and in 200 multibrand stores around the world. Italy, Japan, the U.K. and France are Diesel Black Gold’s main markets. There are plans to open stores in China in 2015. A dedicated showroom in Milan just opened in the penthouse of Diesel’s Via Stendhal offices. Diesel Black Gold, the upscale, contemporary sibling of Diesel, was founded in 2008. In 2012, Diesel Black Gold totaled sales of about 55 million euros, or $72.4 million at current exchange, while Diesel had sales of 1.1 billion euros, or about $1.45 billion. The Diesel Black Gold wom- Inspiration images for the new Diesel en’s wear collection is shown in Black Gold collection. New York.

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New York - 14-15 January 2014 - Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Bldg - premierevision-newyork.com Paris - 18-20 February 2014 - Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com

NEW YORK _ SÃO PAULO _ PARIS _ MOSCOW _ SHANGHAI MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 Men’s Week Ones to Watch: Fresh in An octet of new or revived labels to bookmark at Pitti Uomo.

MALO CASAMADRE product communication at Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design. Then he cut his teeth Italian high-end knitwear specialist A couple at work and in life, Alessia Crea as visual merchandiser at Milanese con- is gearing up to present its fall 2014 col- and David Parisi founded footwear label cept store TAD and, after a stint in fash- lection at Pitti. Casamadre in 2011. ion communication at the Karla Otto fash- Although Malo has continued to pro- Defining themselves as “shoes maniacs,” ion p.r. firm in Milan, designed for Italia duce and sell its collections since 2010, the duo launched their own label of what Independent for three years. when Tuscany-based luxury retail group Parisi described as “conceptual and con- Inspired by a clownlike chunky pair of Evanthe took control of the struggling temporary shoes” after several experiences shoes the couple found in a store in Japan, label, which had been under govern- in the fashion industry. Casamadre’s collections are focused on ment-backed protection, it stopped After earning a degree in fashion design “sizable and versatile shoes, neither for- communication on its designs. This from Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design, mal nor sporty, which can be worn both at edition of Pitti may mark the official Crea worked as an assistant at Antonio work and in one’s spare time,” Parisi said. relaunch of the brand, which is pre- Marras’ Circolo Marras, prior to joining the The options, which offer a new take on senting its looks through installations accessories division of Costume National’s classic men’s shapes, are mostly unisex and inspired by the work of Canadian ab- design studio in 2009 and then women’s include lace-up styles, Oxford shoes and stract painter Jack Bush. ready-to-wear label Moi Multiple. At the Beatle boots, among others. “We want to offer Made in Italy same time, Parisi — who has a degree in For fall 2014, Casamadre teamed up products with an extremely high industrial design — decided to go back to with Vibram to create blue lightweight rub- quality and a contemporary, trendy school, taking a master’s degree in fashion ber soles, appearing on shoes and boots in style,” said Malo chief executive of- brushed calf and napa leather. The color ficer Giuseppe Polvani. “We focused palette is centered on different shades on very comfortable, second skin- of black, except for a few off-white styles. like pieces, which can be worn on Retail prices range from 220 euros, or $301, different occasions.” to 380 euros, or $520. The fall collection is centered The brand will showcase the new collec- on luxury knitted pieces in clas- tion with a special event on Tuesday sic yarns, such as cashmere, and in afternoon at Florence’s Limonaia new blends of cashmere, silk and a del Giardino di Villa Vittoria. small percentage of cotton. Sweaters Malo’s offering includes coats, jackets, “We will recreate a circus atmo- feature two fits, slim or more comfort- such as a cashmere deconstructed blazer, sphere,” Crea said. “We won’t able. Standouts include a thick cashmere and classic pants in cashmere and cordu- literally reproduce a circus, cardigan, which can be worn as a jacket, roy with a contemporary twist. Shoes and but we will try to evoke it.” printed sweaters with micro geometric small leather goods complete the collec- — A . T. patterns and intarsia styles. tion. Knit pieces retail from 450 euros, or “Our goal is to reinforce our presence $614, to 1,300 euros, or $1,775. Pants and on the market with the knitwear, which overcoats are sold for 400 euros, or $546, represents our company’s core business, and 800 euros, or $1,092, respectively. but, at the same time, to create strong Malo produces its collections in two SPIEWAK total look collections reflecting Malo’s factories in the Emilia-Romagna region and DNA in the luxury segment,” said Polvani. close to Florence, and operates 30 stores It was 1904 when Isaac Spiewak opened He noted the strategy is showing its first worldwide that account for 50 percent of a store in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, selling fruits. “In our store, we are registering a the company’s total sales. The collections handmade sheepskin vests for dockworkers strong evolution of our customers’ buying are also distributed through a network of on the Brooklyn waterfront. In the 110 years habits,” he said. “They are buying outfits, about 250 multibrand boutiques. since, the company has continued to outfit not only sweaters and scarves.” — ALESSANDRA TURRA police, firefighters and first responders with utilitarian outerwear pieces. At Pitti Uomo, Spiewak is jumping into the high-end fashion business with a cap- caught the attention of important Italian re- sule collection of pieces under the name tailers, including 10 Corso Como in Milan, Golden Fleece by Spiewak. The nine Luisa Via Roma in Florence and L’Inde Le styles mine the company’s history and Palais in Bologna. Then, invited by Pitti’s will include items from Spiewak’s organizing body, Enriquez and Gronchi archives, reinterpreted for today’s showcased their first range of men’s acces- customer. sories at the June edition of the trade show. “Golden Fleece truly repre- In January, along with presenting anoth- sents the heritage,” said Maurizio er collection of accessories, which includes Donadi, creative director. It’s several pieces made from galvanized piec- “outerwear-driven, made in North es of old shutters, Enriquez will showcase a America and [much is] from dead line of knitted pieces, produced by Apulian stock fabrics.” company MIR Manifatture, under the An Spiewak Golden Fleece will Italian Theory brand. range from $450 for an MA-1 flight “I’ve always been scared to do something jacket in 40-year-old surplus mate- on my own, but the success of the book, rial to $850 for Canadian-made N3B which allowed me to express myself and my snorkel parkas with coyote fur trim in world, gave me the courage to take my own the same surplus material outerwear. way,” said Enriquez, who designed about 25 Bombers will retail for $450, and wool AN ITALIAN pieces, most of them unisex, except for some and waxed cotton peacoats will sell for dresses and skirts. “I’m happy because I’m $550 to $650. THEORY succeeding in telling something, firstly with “It’s not a fashion brand, it’s a utilitarian the book and now with fashion.” brand,” he said. “It’s practical and designed After writing a book and launching a line Key pieces include a jersey bomber, with a purpose.” of accessories in collaboration with Italian available both in bicolor and tricolor ver- Donadi said since this is “a very pre- jackets for $200, to down-filled N3B parkas designer Azzurra Gronchi, Alessandro sions, with padding on the shoulders and mium product, distribution will be quite with detachable coyote fur trim for $600. Enriquez is gearing up to introduce his elbows to resemble a biker jacket; a pair of limited,” and the line will be targeted to Constructed field jackets and bombers are first knitwear collection at Pitti Uomo. pants that are black on the front, gray on the “the best sportswear and outerwear stores $275 to $400. Born in Sicily from an Italian mother bottom and blue at the waist, and a revers- around the world,” he said. The collections are designed in New and a Franco-Tunisian father with Spanish ible mohair sweater — one face features a The plan is to continue to expand the York by Kunimasa Odagi (men’s) and Lisa roots, Enriquez, who worked for six years as good-luck graphic with two hands holding a collection in future seasons, he said. Yu (women’s). Donadi said that because men’s wear designer at Costume National, horseshoe, while the other is striped. Other In addition to Golden Fleece, there’s Golden Fleece is based on archival pieces, celebrated his love for Italian lifestyle and styles include an oversize cardigan and a a second prong to Spiewak’s reinvention the design team merely tweaked the collec- taste with a book called “An Italian Theory,” comfortable round-collar sweater embel- campaign. The company will introduce tion to ensure that it meets the demands of which hit bookstores in 2012. lished with an intarsia patchwork of seven a second collection under the Spiewak today’s shoppers. In April, he decided, along with Gronchi, different stitches from the Italian knitwear name at Bread & Butter in Berlin in mid- “We don’t have to invent anything; the to translate the illustrations of the book into tradition. Retail prices span from 230 euros, January. This will offer women’s as well as history is there,” Donadi said. “The pres- prints decorating a capsule collection of or $315, for a jacquard sweater, to 500 euros, men’s, and will consist of outerwear pieces sure is to make it relevant for 2014, ’15 women’s accessories, which immediately or $685, for the bomber jacket. — A . T. including transitional lightweight modular and ’16.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 MW9

No. 21 added Dell’Acqua, noting that knit- wear is the best performing cat- Florence Alessandro Dell’Acqua is to make egory in the men’s wear business. a return at Pitti Uomo. For next fall, he designed, for ex- The Italian designer, who ample, a tartan mohair cardigan, launched his first men’s collection along with a ribbed sweater deco- under his namesake label at the rated with dark green and black Florence-based trade show in embroideries, which pays hom- 1998, is gearing up to intro- age to the first knit piece duce the No. 21 men’s line created by the designer for ATELIER lar “statements.” Fits tend toward the at Pitti. his first namesake men’s body-conscious. “To design this col- collection. Dell’Acqua SCOTCH For at least the first season, Atelier lection, I thought of an lost rights to design Scotch will only be distributed in Europe ideal men’s wardrobe under his name Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda will in- and not available to U.S. retailers. and I tried to imag- in 2009. troduce a premium tailored clothing col- “Therefore, we have not defined a U.S. ine what a contem- Pants, including lection under the new Atelier Scotch label price positioning yet,” said van Bilsen, porary man needs to a style featuring at Pitti Uomo. who added the business would expand to be well dressed in wool covered with “Expect unusual mixtures of shapes, North America “in the near future.” his everyday life,” lace, along with an linings and rich materials with a refined In Europe, the company is targeting said Dell’Acqua, who option in silk duch- love for details,” said Rob van Bilsen, a mix of high-end, multibrand specialty launched No. 21 in esse, feature slim brand manager of retailers, depart- 2010 and was also ap- fits and are cut at Atelier Scotch. “It ment stores and pointed creative di- the ankle to show is a focused col- its own branded rector of French label thick wool socks lection, created by boutiques, with Rochas in September. with crystal embroi- a dedicated and product first hit- “I don’t believe men deries in the shape specialized team.” ting stores in July. want clothes that are of scorpions and The debut line- A new, separate too quirky and fash- spiders. up encompasses store concept ded- ionable, so I focused on To complete the about 100 styles, icated to Atelier contemporary silhou- offer, Dell’Acqua also in addition to cor- Scotch is under ettes and details.” designed a small col- responding acces- development as His first men’s collection lection of shoes, including sories. Key catego- well. under the No. 21 moniker, which sneakers and clippers. ries include suits, Overall, Atelier is produced by Italian high-end Retail prices range from blazers, coats, Scotch is priced clothing manufacturer Gilmar, 160 euros, or $218 at current shirts and knit- at the top end of consists of 21 men’s daywear sta- exchange, for cotton sweaters, wear, all fashioned the Scotch & Soda ples, including a classic overcoat, to 380 euros, or $519, for the under the theme portfolio, which an oversize parka with loden green knitwear. Pants come between of “eclectic tailor- includes the core wool inserts, a bonded leather 250 euros, or $341, and 300 ing,” according to men’s Scotch & jacket lined with fur, chinos and euros, or $410. Overcoat prices van Bilsen. Soda label, the denim pants, all realized in high- span from 650 euros, or $888, “This collec- women’s Maison end fabrics and embellished with to 900 euros, or $1,229. tion stands out be- Scotch label, the sophisticated details. There is also a “The goal is to sell the col- cause of the artisanal way of designing denim-focused Amsterdams Blauw label selection of cotton and flannel shirts, lection to the best 150 stores in and the love for detail,” he explained. and the boys’ Scotch Shrunk and girls’ including styles with tartan inserts the world,” said Gilmar Group “Fabrics and prints were created in- Scotch R’Belle labels. The company is and one decorated with an allover chief executive officer Paolo house. Micro and oversized checks, owned by Boca Raton, Fla.-based Sun print of micro-stars. Gerani, who also affirmed that wool structures with a tumbled finish, Capital Partners. In keeping with the brand’s women’s the launch of the men’s collec- uniquely developed jacquards, cash- “Atelier Scotch is designed for an end collection, Dell’Acqua also delivered a tion “will complete the offer- mere and mohair blends — all in a very use we have not catered to so far, and at range of cotton sweatshirts. These in- ing of the brand for the flagship chic color palette.” the same time allows Scotch & Soda to clude one showing the print of a horse, stores, which will open soon.” The design team has focused on enter into a different, higher-priced mar- while another brings a touch of irony, The collection will be show- creating a unique shoulder and lapel ket segment,” said van Bilsen. showing the word “Fire” written with cased with a presentation on Jan. 9, “language,” as well as bold shirt-col- — DAVID LIPKE matches. There are also more classic vari- from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., at Florence’s ations, featuring a 3-D “No. 21” logo. Biblioteca Comunale. “There are also a lot of knit pieces,” — A . T.

and slim pants in a treated stretch jersey. POLICE Like the eyewear collection, the rtw line is positioned in the medium-high seg- PANIZZA Italian eyewear brand Police, owned by De ment of the market. Pants and knit pieces Rigo Group, is launching its first ready-to- range from 120 euros, or $164, to 160 euros, Italian felt hat spe- wear line at Pitti Uomo. or $219, while overcoats retail at between cialist Panizza will re- Produced under license by Italian manu- 300 euros, or $410, and 400 euros, or $547. launch at Pitti. facturing company Moda Fashion, which “The ready-to-wear distribution will be Founded in 1879 by also handles its distribution, Police will in- similar to the eyewear,” Perini said. “We Giovanni Panizza and clude collections of total looks for both men are starting with about 150 stores in Italy, then passed on to the and women. The latter, accounting for 65 and at the same time we are developing control of the Gamba percent of the brand’s total business, is de- the French, British and Russian markets.” family, the company is signed by a team guided by Marino Orbolato. According to Perini, the company plans currently controlled by “Surely, De Rigo decided to develop to open a Police flagship in Milan in 2014. a member of the fam- this brand extension in order to reinforce — A . T. ily’s fifth generation, the Police label,” said Moda Fashion Laura Gamba. sales and marketing director Carlo Panizza collections Perini. “We conceived a product which is are produced in a facto- new, innovative and different because we ry in Tuscany, where the are conscious that in such a difficult mo- company moved its operations from Lake which are named after both some Olympic ment for the domestic market we have Maggiore in the Seventies. Winter Games locations and a number of to find the way to be competitive on “The goal of this relaunch is trifold,” poets and their muses, are designed to be the international scene.” Gamba said. “First of all, I didn’t want to unisex. “Then customers can decide to dec- Reflecting the spirit of Police cease my great-great-grandfather’s activity; orate them with specific ribbons, making eyewear collections, the men’s line the second thing I want is to keep support- them masculine or feminine,” Gamba said. revisits iconic pieces of motorcy- ing Tuscan hat artisans, and third, I want to All of the pieces feature the blue Panizza cle apparel and workwear in a preserve our production process, which is logo, showing Leon, a fox terrier dog, im- trendy, urban way. The collec- so beautiful and exclusive.” pressed on the lining. tion was “inspired by an imagi- Panizza, which manufactures about Among the styles to be showcased at native contemporary man who 18,000 hats a year, currently sells three Pitti are the Turin, a hairy felt hat with travels the world visiting the different collections. The first includes a voluminous crown and a wide brim; most exciting metropolises,” traditional felt hats, while the second re- Garmisch, which features a circular crown said Perini. The fall 2014 range visits classic styles. In addition, Gamba and a soft brim, and the Alfieri, which is features wearable pieces in classic, introduced the P Line, a more fashionable decorated with stitches to offer a new take high-end fabrics, including wool, flan- range showing iconic models “which are on the classic fedora. The color palette is nel, jersey and leather, all treated with deconstructed and then reconstructed in a centered on Seventies-inspired tones, in- special techniques for a used, heritage new way,” Gamba said. cluding powder pink, acid green, fuchsia, look. Key pieces include a three-quarter- The P Line, which includes 20 felt hats, dark green, yellow and ultramarine blue. length wool parka with distressed leath- will be showcased at Pitti in a Sixties- Wholesale prices range from around 30 er inserts, an oversize thick wool zip- inspired booth, which pays homage to euros, or $41, to 70 euros, or $96, for the pered sweater with contrasting patches Milanese architect Gio Ponti. The hats, more structured styles. — A . T. MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 2, 2014 Men’s Week Subhead La Dolce Vita at Pitti Uomo A guide to Florence’s newest treats for visitors, from museums to macarons.

by CLAUDIA BARONELLI caffè fLorIan “HaTs BeTween arT Venice’s iconic Caffè Florian has opened an outpost in and exTravaganza” Florence. Delicious dishes cooked by Italian chef Massimo Celebrating the link between art and fashion, Palazzo Pitti’s For more images, see Ladurée Scervino are served in an artsy ambience decorated with Galleria del Costume hosts the first exhibition dedicated to Ladurée has brought a French touch to the Florentine scene. paintings from the Florian artistic foundation. Every Tuesday, hats. Called “Hats Between Art and Extravaganza,” the exhib- WWD.com/ In December, the French tea salon, famous for its multi- the café offers an authentic Venetian-style aperitivo. it includes more than 1,000 styles by international designers menswear-news. color macarons, opened its first door in the city. In keeping and labels, including Christian Dior, Givenchy, Chanel, Yves with the brand’s flagships worldwide, the store is painted in Caffè Florian Saint Laurent, John Rocha, Prada, Gianfranco Ferré, Philip Ladurée’s signature tone of celadon and displays pyramids 28r Via di Parione Treacy, Stephen Jones, Caroline Reboux, Claude Saint-Cyr of macarons and their colored boxes. Tel.: +39-055-284-291 and Paulette. The exhibition will be open until May 18. XXXX XXXX XXXXX Ladurée Palazzo Pitti XXXXX XXXXX XXXX 48r Via della Vigna Nuova 1, Piazza de’ Pitti Tel.: +39-055-216-047 Tel.:+39-055-238-8713 XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” — XXXXX XXXXXX Headline Goes

Dek goes here for this dek goes here for this eaTaLy Eataly, the temple of Italian food, has inaugurated its first door in Florence. dek goes here for this. Located a few steps from the city’s Duomo cathedral, the 21,530-square-foot emporium unfolds over three levels. The first floor hosts a bookstore dedicated to food, a coffee shop- cum-gelateria and a bakery, along with a number of theme restaurants. The “DaVinci” restaurant and a store selling ex- clusive wines and beers occupy the second level, which also features a panoramic terrace, while the third floor features three rooms that, starting from February, will host courses on food education for both children and adults. In addition, shoppers will be able to visit a museum dedi- cated to the Renaissance located inside the emporium.

Eataly 22r Via de’Martelli “aLdo faLLaI: from gIorgIo Tel.: +39-055-015-3601 armanI To THe renaIssance” On Jan. 10, the closing day of Pitti Uomo, the “Aldo Fallai: From Giorgio Armani to the Renaissance. Pictures From 1978 to 2013” exhibition will open at Florence’s Villa Bardini. The IL Borro Tuscan BIsTro retrospective will show more than 200 images shot by Italian The Ferragamo family has put its chic touch on another hot photographer Aldo Fallai for Giorgio Armani. At the same spot in town, Il Borro Tuscan Bistro. Both wine bar and res- time, the Museum Bardini will host an exhibition on the art taurant, the cozy, elegant space also features a store selling of the Renaissance. Both of the exhibits will close March 10. local organic products. Il Borro has been realized using only natural materials from Tuscany to guarantee a sustainable Villa Bardini approach. 2 Costa San Giorgio Tel.: +39-055-200-66206 Il Borro Tuscan Bistro 80r Lungarno Acciaiuoli Tel.: +39-055-290-423

yeLLow HaLLs aT THe uffIzI gaLLery Florence’s prestigious Uffizi Gallery has recently enriched its cultural offering, opening six new rooms. Called “Yellow Halls,” these are entirely dedicated to Florentine painters from the 17th century. In particular, the new rooms show 48 masterworks by 24 artists, including Jacopo Chimenti, Giovanni Bilivert, Filippo Napoletano and Carlo Dolci.

Uffizi Gallery 6 Piazzale degli Uffizi Tel.: +39-055-238-8651 S Sonnet/Corbi Sylvain by photo

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