TRAVEL Located on the waterfront, Kuwait Towers, with its three distinctive globes, is the city's most famous landmark. This waterfront city used to draw parched travellers in search of an oasis in the 18th century. Now it’s drawing visitors with its world-class museums, restaurants and marinas, says RAMSEY QUBEIN. SilverKris 42 THIS PAGE: The harbourfront location of Sharq Mall (left) TRAVEL makes it the perfect place to linger over a coffee or a meal (below) after shopping. tourism, who says, “Tourism now comprises about two per cent of the nation’s GDP, but we want to increase that.” By 2010, Kuwait hopes to welcome nearly one million visitors annually, up from half that number a decade ago. FORTRESS BY THE SEA Extensively rebuilt after the Gulf War of 1990-1991, Kuwait City offers postcard-perfect views as you head in from the airport. The city centre stands tall amid a mesh of interconnecting streets surrounded by low-rise development reaching out to the waters of Kuwait Bay in the Persian Gulf. The name ‘Kuwait’ comes from the Arabic word kut, meaning fort. A part of the Ottoman empire in the 18th and 19th centuries, Kuwait’s cultural roots go back to the Arabian nomads – the Bedouins – who travelled through this region with their herds in search of water. A resourceful people, they placed >> int-sized Kuwait is used Sitting on 10 per cent of the emanating from the Middle East. to playing with the world’s global crude reserves The whole region has been big boys. Its capital, and with a per capita GDP generating a lot of interest of late. P Kuwait City, with one- (Gross Domestic Product) The New York Times’ 53 Places third the population of Abu of about US$50,000, Kuwait To Go in 2008 cited seven Middle Dhabi and one-tenth that of knows how to punch above its Eastern destinations, including Dubai, is casting itself as the weight. Though the country is Kuwait City. next hot spot in the Middle known primarily as a business This is good news for East, entering an arena that’s destination, the government is Nabila al-Anjari, the Kuwaiti lately been dominated by these looking to change that mindset Information Ministry’s heavyweights. and draw on the travel buzz assistant undersecretary for SilverKris 44 TRAVEL an emphasis on trade to survive Persian Gulf region. It is one of choice for visiting celebrities and you can see that quality OPEC’s (Organisation of the and business people since its in the Kuwaitis of today. Over Petroleum Exporting Countries) opening in 2003. Its 70 rooms the years, Kuwait became a largest oil producers, churning showcase the brand’s minimalist major trading post, thanks to its out about 2.6 million barrels Art+Tech design concept, waterfront position. The dhows of crude per day, producing bringing together modern art, (Arab sailing vessels) played a almost one-third of what the contemporary design and high- key role in the country’s past, much larger Saudi Arabia does, tech features. plying the route between Arabia, according to OPEC. If you’re interested in Arab East Africa and India. Even today architecture, check out the Ghani there are dhow makers who STAY IN STYLE Palace Hotel’s (Tel: 965 571 0301) practise the craft. This wealth is visible in the intricate woodwork and stained- The discovery of oil in the many lavish hotels decked out glass features. To relax, try the 1930s set the country on the fast in chandeliers and expanses of Hilton Resort at Fahaheel (Tel: track to wealth and success. shiny marble. Le Meridien Tower 965 225 6222) for its excellent By 1952, Kuwait had become on Fahad Al-Salem Street (Tel: thalassotherapy (seawater the largest exporter of oil in the 965 183 1831) has been the top therapy) pool and private mile- long beach. THE MELTING POT For a taste of Kuwaiti fare, head to Burj Al Hamam restaurant (www. burjalhamam.com) on Al Khalij Al Arabi Street, a Middle Eastern chain serving delicacies by the sea. Order the delicious kafta meatballs accented with oregano CLOCKWISE FROM THIS and onion or the rotisserie- PHOTO: Everything old is grilled shawarma (shaved meat) new on Jinli Jie, a street sandwiches popular with locals. inspired by times gone by; a For a meal in a historic setting, bowl of Chengdu’s famous go to Beit 7 restaurant (Tel: 965 cold noodles; and the city’s 245 0871) housed in a heritage newest hangout, Kuan Xiangzi, which actually dates building dating back to the back to the Qing dynasty. mid-1900s. Its menu is mostly Continental, but local favourites, like the tempting mezze spread of appetisers, are always on the menu. If it’s ambience you seek, go to Al Boom, set inside an authentic Kuwaiti dhow, and dine in the hull of a ship. Located in a dry dock at the Radisson SAS hotel (Tel: 965 567 3000), it serves excellent grilled steak and seafood. Expatriates and locals fl ock to the hip Japanese Kei restaurant (www.kei-restaurant. THIS PAGE: Ghani Palace Hotel pays com) at JW Marriott, for tribute to the now rare architectural sushi and locally caught style of traditional Kuwaiti houses. seafood. Another favourite >> OPPOSITE PAGE: The city is a >> shopper’s paradise, whether you’re looking for trinkets or artefacts like the traditional coffee pot (inset). SilverKris 46 TRAVEL is Bukhara, serving hearty Indian authenticity. Try Al-Fares Souk Relaxing on the beach by fare (kebabs and naan or grilled for the best jewellery, and Al- crystalline waters, yachting, bread) at the Sheraton (Tel: 965 Silah Souk (within the downtown diving and snorkelling are popular 183 5555). Al-Mubarakiya Souk) for locally pastimes here. Scuba divers head For a light treat, there’s French made rose- or jasmine-scented out to the reefs located about 24 chocolatier Le Notre (Tel: 965 perfumes. Near the Fourth Ring miles from shore where marine life 180 5050) serving pastries and Road is the weekly Friday Market including mackerel and snapper snacks on Arabian Gulf Street. where one can fi nd an array of offers a rainbow of underwater Middle Eastern treasures in a activity. SHOPS AND SOUKS fl e a m a r k e t - s t y l e a t m o s p h e r e . For a day outdoors, there’s Fahad Al-Salem Street is teeming Persian rugs and handmade Messilah and Al-Oqeila public with glamorous stores and ceramic plates are good buys beaches on Arabian Gulf Street shoppers sporting Hermes and here, and remember to take as well as the manmade Green Bulgari insignia on their arms. photos of the racks of colourful Island (Tel: 965 252 6153), which The locals love branded items, slippers and hand-beaded is linked via pedestrian walkway and abayas (loose robe worn necklaces. to the mainland. It offers beautiful over clothes by Muslim women) gardens, a swimming pool, an often conceal designer digs. KICKING BACK amusement park and restaurants. (Abayas are not compulsory for After a day at the shops, head The entrance fee is 250 fi ls women travelling here, but it’s out for the glorious (US$0.90) per person. best to dress conservatively.) waterfront which will The Kuwait Offshore Sailing For a fashionable escape with dispel any notion Association’s posh yachting club panoramic city views, there is you might have (www.kosaq8.com) keeps the Sharq Mall (Tel: 965 246 9162) had that Kuwait waterways busy for those along the waterfront. Have a cup was all work who can afford it while of coffee in a cafe overlooking and no play. smaller boats can be the water. rented for tours. Those with deep wallets can Weekends see check out Villa Moda (www. a plethora >> villa-moda.com), a glass- enclosed temple to high fashion. Developed by a Kuwaiti prince, it features names like Fendi, Gucci and Ferragamo, and frequent shoppers are pampered with a concierge service, a personal assistant to carry bags and access to a spa, a private dining room and a business centre. For an authentic local experience, the outdoor souks at Fahaheel and Jahra, a short taxi ride from downtown, are perfect for an early morning outing before it gets too hot. Bargaining is essential; offer half the price THIS PAGE: Housed in a heritage quoted and haggle your way building, Beit 7 is big on atmosphere politely to an understanding. with its cosy wicker chairs, beaded Gold shops sell 24-karat lights and palm fans. OPPOSITE PAGE: gold jewellery based on weight. Check out Al Hashemi II, said to be the Prices are often cheaper than world’s largest wooden cargo elsewhere but remember to ship, which now hosts conferences and weddings. ask for a receipt to verify SilverKrisSilverKris 48 TRAVEL Traditional handicrafts are prized here; a fishmonger shows off a fresh catch. of sailing events, and authentic DESERT CULTURE (www.trmkt.com) is home to a dhows can also be seen Kuwait has a number of world- collection of thousands of local plying the waters, precariously class museums not to be missed. artefacts, including important balancing their wares as they The Kuwait National Museum pieces of ceramics, manuscripts, have done for nearly 400 years. on Arabian Gulf Street (Tel: 965 costumes and musical As the sun goes down, 245 1195) features the royal Al- instruments – all highlighting sit back with a shisha pipe Sabah Collection, one of the most important parts of Islamic culture. (water pipe for smoking) at the extensive private collections of Here you can see the stringed waterfront Sharq Mall or chill Arabic and Islamic art in the world.