©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 896

Index

A Alma 420 Baie Trinité 318 Bonavista 478-9 Abitibi-Témiscamingue 324-5 Amherst 370 Bonnechere Caves 224 Aboriginal people 845-50 amusement parks 54 584-612, 615, 586, 7, books 832 beliefs 767 Moncton 421 613, 614 food 862 festivals 32, 93, 171, 366, Nanaimo 702 Banff Town 590-600, 592 history 840, 844 372, 518 Toronto 86, 88 Banks Island 817 wine 865 First Nations 845-8 animals 856-9, see also Bar U Ranch 623 border crossings 880-1 Inuit 822, 834, 848-9 individual species Barkerville 759 Bouctouche 425-6 Métis 848 Annapolis Royal 359-61 Barrington 354 Bowen Island 671 Acadian Peninsula 429 Annapolis Valley 355-65 Basin Head Provincial Park Bowron Lake Provincial Acadian people 377, 455 Anne of Green Gables 444 Park 758 Acadian festivals 356, 429 20, 451 Bastille Day 481 Bracebridge 160-1 Bateman, Robert 26 accommodations 868-70, Antigonish 374 Brackley Beach 447-8 see also individual Appalachian 312, 499 Batoche National Historic Brandon 525-6 Site 552 locations aquariums Brandywine Falls Provincial activities 27, 851-5, 870, see Acadian Peninsula 429 Battleford 552 Park 675 also individual activities Norris Point 489 Bay of Fundy 17, 17 Brantford 135-7 adventure sports 27, 774, Québec 279 beaches 30, 551 Bras d’Or Lake 382-3 see also individual St Andrews-by-the-Sea Bear River 359 breweries activities 404, 405 bears 856-7, see also polar 566, 587-8, 611 Advocate Harbour 369-70 bears Toronto 26 British Columbia 645, African slaves 353 Ucluelet 712 Beaver Creek 784 660, 661, 704, 709, 719 air travel Vancouver 637 beer 631, see also Newfoundland 463 breweries to/from 880 Arctic parks 796 Nova Scotia 333, 341 festivals 140, 371, 649 within Canada 881-3 Art Gallery of 79-80 Ontario 71, 110, 160 beetles 785 Highway 768, 770-1, arts, see also individual arts Québec 253, 322 780-4 Bell, Alexander Graham 382 aboriginal 846, 849 Brimstone Head 486 Alaska Marine Highway Bella Coola Valley 760-1 Algonquin School 172 British Columbia 59, System 768 bicycling, see cycling festivals 93, 161, 260, 465, 630-771, 632-3 Alberta 59, 554-629, 555 649, 816 Big White Ski Resort 741 accommodations 630 accommodations 554 ATMs 874 birds 859, see also beer 631 climate 554, 556 individual species 619, climate 630 driving distances 559 birdwatching 529, 859 817, 618 fast facts 631 fast facts 556 Avalon Peninsula 472-3 aurora borealis 16, 30, ferries 757 food 554 Cap Tourmente National 529, 16 food 630, 631, 733 highlights 555 Wildlife Area 291 619, highlights 632-3 history 556 826-7, Grand Manan Island 410 618 internet resources 46, 631 itineraries 557 avalanches 744 black bears 856-7 parks 631 travel seasons 554 Avalon Peninsula 472-6 Black Loyalists 353 scenic drives 45-6 travel to/from 556-7 Blackfoot Crossing time 754 Algoma Central Railway 177 Historical Park 626 travel seasons 630 Algonquin Provincial Park B Blackfoot people 626 B&Bs 868-9 190-4 Blue Mountain 165-7 travel to/from 631 Baffin region 22, 824-9, 22 boat travel wildlife 631 Baie Comeau 318 to/from Canada 881 wine 865 Map Pages 000 Baie Ste-Catherine 296-7 within Canada 883 Brockville 205-7 Photo Pages 000 Baie St-Paul 291-3 Bonaventure 315 Bromont 265 897 Bruce Peninsula 167-72 Cap Tourmente National 787-8 Dartmouth 343-4 126 Wildlife Area 291 Chiputneticook Lakes 402 789-95, 790 budgeting 25 Cape Breton Highlands churches 239 Deer Island 407-8 National Park 378-9, Burin Peninsula 479-80 Churchill 21, 528-31 Deer Lake 488 616, 44, 617 Burnaby 670-1 cider 701 Deh Cho 811-14 Cape Breton Island 784 cinema, see film Dempster Highway 795-6 375-86,

51 INDEX bus travel climate 24, see also Denman Island 713 Cape Chignecto Provincial individual regions to/from Canada 881 Park 369-70 784 climate change 787, 833 within Canada 883-4 Cape d’Or 369 Digby 358-9 Cochrane 187-8 B-E business hours 875 Cape Dorset 827 Digby Neck 357-8 Collingwood 165-7  Cape Enrage 420 Comox Valley 714-15 622 Cape George 374-5 C Conception Bay 474-5 Dinosaur Trail 612, 621 Cabot, John 835 Cape Jourimain 424-5 Confederation 839-40 dinosaurs 544, 621 Cabot Trail 13, 376-82, Cape Scott Provincial 439 disabilities, travelers 13, 44 Park 718 consulates 871 with 877 571-84, 572-3 Cape Shore 475-6 Coombs 705-6 distilleries accommodations 576-9 Cape Spear 471-2 Corner Brook 496-9, British Columbia 682, activities 576 Cape St Mary 355 497 covered bridges 398, 701 children, travel with 580 car travel 881, 884-6 417-18, 421-2 Ontario 153 drinking & nightlife 581-2 driver’s licenses 884 Cowichan Valley 700-2 entertainment 582-3 rental 885-6 Cranbrook 753 443 festivals & events 576 Caraquet 429-30 credit cards 874 diving 29 food 579-81 788 cross-country skiing, see dogsledding Cariboo 758-61 shopping 583 also skiing Yellowknife 801 caribou 857 sights 573-5 Canmore 587 Quest 774 Carleton-sur-Mer 316 tourist information Jasper 608 drinking & nightlife, see 583-4 Carmacks 788 Crowsnest Pass 628 individual locations tours 576 Carmanah Walbran currency 24 drinks, see also wine travel to/from 584 Provincial Park 701 customs regulations 870 beer 631 Calgary Stampede 18, 34, carnivals 93, 465, 547, 562, cycling 854-5, 883, see cider 701 576, 576, 649 18 also mountain biking sourtoe 794 Cambridge Bay 830 Cartier, Jacques 835 Banff Town 594 driving, see car travel, Campbell River 715 Cathedral Provincial scenic drives Park 731 Calgary 577 Campbellton 430 19, 612, 621-2 Cavendish 451-6 Cape Breton Highlands camping 869 National Park 378 Ceilidh Trail 375-6 Campobello Island 408-9 Confederation Trail Canmore 586-8 cell phones 24, 876 E (Prince Edward Island) East Point 445 canoeing & kayaking Change Islands 486-7 439 Eastend 544 853-4, see also rafting Chapleau 180 419 Eastern Ontario 190-224, Algonquin Provincial Charlevoix 18, 291-7, Halifax 337 , 191 Park 191-2 292 18 Icefields Parkway 589 Eastern Townships 263-9 Banff Town 594 Charlottetown 435-41, 436 Kettle Valley 741 EC Manning Provincial Park Broken Group Islands Chester 346 Kouchibouguac National 724-5 Unit 708 Chicoutimi 300-1 Park 426 economy 832-3 Gros Morne National Chilcotin 758-61 Legacy Trail (Alberta) Economy (Nova Scotia) Park 490 children, travel with 52-6 26, 594 367 Mauricie 271 amusement parks 54, Montréal 244 Edmonton 557-70, 558, Mt Carleton Provincial 86, 88, 421, 702 Prince Edward Island 560-1 Park 400 Calgary 580 439 accommodations 562-4 Nahanni National Park Edmonton 567 Swartz Bay 698 Reserve 813 children, travel with 567 festivals 576, 649 Toronto 89 Tobique 400 drinking & nightlife Halifax 339 Vancouver 648 Yellowknife 801 566-7 Montréal 245 Cypress Hills Yukon River Quest 774 entertainment 567-8 Ottawa 214 Inter­provincial Park Yukon Territory 777-8, festivals & events 562 Québec City 279 544-5 788-9 food 564-6 St John’s 465 815 shopping 568-9 Toronto 73 Canso 387-8 D sights 559-62 Vancouver 643 Dalvay by the Sea 447 Cap Chat 309 tours 562 Winnipeg 518 dangers, see safe travel 898 Edmonton continued fishing 428, 855 gay travelers 871-2 food 339-40 travel to/from 569 Five Islands 367 festivals 93, 151, 215, gay & lesbian travel within 569-70 flies 164 518, 649, 679 travelers 341 Edmonton International Flin Flon 527 Halifax 341 highlights 337 Fringe Festival 568 Florenceville 398-9 Montréal 255 shopping 342 Edmundston 402-3 Fogo Island 486-7 Ottawa 221-2 tourist information 342

INDEX INDEX electricity 871 food 860-3, see also food Toronto 81, 112 tours 337 elk 857 festivals, individual Vancouver 661 travel to/from 343 locations geology 169 travel within 343

E-H 570 blogs 863 Georgetown 444 Hamilton 135-7  Elliston 479 books 862 Georgian Bay 162-72, 163 Hartland 398 Elmira 140 maple syrup 32, 266 Gibsons 683-4 Havre St-Pierre 320 Elora 141-3 Newfoundland dishes Gimli 524 Hay River 808-9 468 embassies 871 Glace Bay 385 Head-Smashed-In Buffalo oysters 453 emergencies 876, 892 Glacier National Park Jump 622-3 entertainment, see poutine 284 615, 748 health 872-3 individual locations Québecois dishes 226 Godbout 318 health care 833 Eriksson, Leif 834 seafood 29 Golden 748-9 Hecla-Grindstone events, see festivals & food festivals 861 Goldstream Provincial Provincial Park 524 events London 151 Park 697 Hidden Lake Territorial exchange rates 25 Montréal 246 grain elevators 526 Park 806-7 Penticton 734 Grand Falls 402-3 hiking 852-3 Saskatoon 547 Grand Falls-Windsor 487 Algonquin Provincial F Park 192 Fergus 141-3 Saturna Island 723 Grand Manan Island 410-12 Banff Town 594-5 Fernie 751-3 Stratford 144 Grand Métis 308 Bruce Trail 126 ferries Toronto 92, 93 Grand Pré 363-4 Cabot Trail 376-82 to/from Canada 881 Whistler 679 Grand Prix du Canada 246 Cape Breton Highlands Vancouver 649 within Canada 883 National Park 378 Ford, Rob 71 543 Festival International de Cape Chignecto Gravelbourg 542-3 Jazz 14, 33, 246, 14 Fort Beauséjour National Provincial Park 369-70 Historic Site 424 Gravenhurst 159-60 festivals & events 31-5, Chilkoot Trail (Yukon) see also film festivals, Fort Erie 129 Great Bear Rainforest 761 787-8 food festivals, individual Fort Langley 671-2 Green Gables 20, 20, 616, Fundy National Park 419 locations see also Anne of Green Fort Providence 807-8 Goldstream Provincial film 832 Gables Fort Simpson 812 Park 697 film festivals Greenwich 445 Fort Smith 809-10 Grand Manan Island 411 Atlantic Film Festival 338 fossils 316, 368, 370 grizzly bears 29, 856-7, 856 Gros Morne National Banff Mountain Film & Fraser River Canyon 725 Park 489 Book Festival 596 488-92, 616 Fraser Valley 724-7, 725 Halifax 337 Canadian International Grosse Île 302, 323-4 Fredericton 393-8, International Documentary Festival 394 Group of Seven 172 Appa­lachian Trail 92 French language 889-93 Guelph 137-9 312, 499 Open Roof Festival 93 French Shore 355-65, 495 Guysborough 387 607 Silver Wave Film Festival Frontenac Arch 206 Gwaii Haanas National Juan de Fuca Provincial 395 Function Junction 678 Park Reserve 764-5 Park 699 Toronto International Fundy Isles 407-12 Kluane National Park & Film Festival 93-4 Fundy National Park 418-19 Reserve 783-4 Toronto LGBT Film Fundy Trail Parkway 420 H Kouchibouguac National Festival 92 fur trade 836 Haida Gwaii 10, 764-7, 10 Park 426 Vancouver International Haida cultural center 765 Lake Louise 602 Film Festival 649-50 Haines (Alaska) 785-6 Legacy Trail 594 Whistler Film Festival G Haines Highway 784-6 679 Galiano Island 722-3 Mt Carleton Provincial 782-3 Park 400-1 First Nations people 537, Gananoque 204-5 Haliburton Highlands 194 845-8 Gander 484 Parc des Grands Jardins Halifax 332-43, 334 293 Fisherman’s Cove 344 gannets 314 accommodations 338-9 Revelstoke 748 Garibaldi Provincial Park 675 activities 337 Sunshine Coast Trail 685 children, travel with 339 Tadoussac 298 Map Pages Gaspé 312-13 000 drinking 340-1 Toronto 89-90 Photo Pages 000 Gaspé Peninsula 307-17, 308, 28 entertainment 341-2 708 899 Whistler 678-9 Île Verte 305 Kennebecasis River Le Massif 291 Yellowknife 801 Île-aux-Coudres 293-4 Valley 418 Legacy Trail 594 Yukon Territory 787-8 Îles de la Madeleine 321-4 Kensington 453 legal matters 873 historical sites 27, 836 immigration 880 Kermode bear 761 Lennox Island 456 history 834-44 Ingraham Trail 806-7 Kettle Valley Rail Trail 741 Les Bergeronnes 299 aboriginal 849 in-line skating Killarney Provincial Park 174 lesbian travelers 871-2

books 840, 844 Halifax 338 Kimberley 753 festivals 93, 151, 215, INDEX British rule 837-9 Toronto 89 King François I of France 518, 649, 679 Canadian Pacific Railway insurance 873 835-6 Halifax 341 car 884-5 King’s Landing Historical Montréal 255  H-M 840 Settlement 398 European explorers health 872 Ottawa 221-2 Kingston 199-204, 834-6 International Appalachian 200 Toronto 81, 112 first inhabitants 834 Trail 312, 499 Kitchener-Waterloo 139-41 Vancouver 661 French vs English 836-7 International Peace Garden Kitikmeot region 830 Lethbridge 623-5 fur trade 836 526 Kivalliq region 829-30 Lévesque, René 843 internet resources 836, internet access 873 Klondike Gold Rush 789 Lévis 287 842 internet resources Klondike Highway 786-9 Liard Trail 814 land rights 844 activities 870 Kluane National Park and lighthouses 28 Reserve 783-4 museums 839 British Columbia 631 literature, see books 751 post-WWII 842-4 food 862 live music 27-8 Kootenays 743-58, Québec separatism 843 health 872 746-7 Liverpool 350-1 Kouchibouguac National Scottish heritage 382 Ontario 63 London 149-53 Park 426-7 Seven Years’ War 837 Québec 226 Louisbourg 385-6 Vikings 494, 834-6 tourist information Lower Fort Garry 523 hitchhiking 886 25, 877 L Lunenburg 348-50, 349 hockey 401, 522, 852, see wine 865, 866 La Malbaie 294-6 also ice hockey Inuit people 822, 834, La Ronge 553 holidays 875, 876 848-9 Labrador 503-9, 505 M Machias Seal Island 411 homestays 869 815-17 climate 457, 459 629 Hopewell Rocks 420-1 inventions 844 fast facts 503 magazines 878 Hornby Island 713 Iqaluit 820-4 food 468 Magog 266-7 horseback riding 595, 607 itineraries 36-43, 36, 37, highlights 458 , , , Mahone Bay 346-8 hostels 870 38 39 40 41 history 459 Ivvavik National Park 619, Maitland 365-6 hotels 869, 870 language 459 796, 619 Malpeque 453 Hudson’s Bay Company planning 459 836-7 Manitoba 59, 510-31, travel seasons 457 511 Huntsville 161-2 accommodations 510 J travel to/from 459-60 Hyder (Alaska) 771 climate 510, 512 James Bay 325-7 wildlife 459 fast facts 512 Jasper National Labrador Straits 503-6 food 510 I Park 584-612, 604 Lac Brome (Knowlton) 265 geography 512 ice hockey 22, see also Jasper Town 604-12, 606 Lac St-Jean 301 highlights 511 hockey 370 Lake District 629 history 512 ice hotel 281 Johnson’s Crossing 782 Lake Erie Shoreline 155-8 parks 512 ice skating Juan de Fuca Marine Lake Huron Shoreline Halifax 338 Trail 699 146-9 tourist information 513 travel seasons 510 Jasper 608 Juan de Fuca Provincial Lake Louise 600-4, 601 Park 699 Montréal 245 Lake Ontario 87 travel to/from 512 Ottawa 213 Lake Superior Provincial Manitoulin Island 16, 16 Toronto 90 K Park 179-80 maple leaf symbol 835 ice wine 132 Kamloops 725-7 Lake Superior Shoreline maple syrup 32, 266 icebergs 485 Kananaskis 585-6 178-82 maps 873 Icefields Parkway 588-90 Katannilik Territorial Park Lake Winnipeg 524 markets 29 Île d’Anticosti 320-1 825 land disputes 411 Annapolis Royal 361 Île de la Grande Entrée 324 Kawarthas 195 Land O’ Lakes 196 Bromont 265 Île d’Orléans 288-90 kayaking, see canoeing & land rights 844 Coombs 705 Île du Cap aux Meules 321-2 kayaking language 24, 889-93 Edmonton 569 Île du Havre Aubert 323 L’Anse aux Meadows 493-4 Halifax 342 Île du Havre aux Maisons 351-2 L’Anse-St-Jean 299-300 Kelowna 739 323 Kelowna 736-41, 738 Laurentians 259-63 London 151 900 markets continued gay & lesbian 619, 826-7, 618 Kootenay National Montréal 233, 251-2, 253 travelers 255 Banff National Park Park 751 Nelson 756 itineraries 231 584-612, 615, 613 Kouchibouguac National North Pender Island 722 shopping 256-7 Basin Head Provincial Park 426-7 Québec City 285 sights 231-44 Park 444 Lake Superior Provincial Park 179-80 Richmond 672 tourist information 257 Bowron Lake Provincial

INDEX INDEX Park 758 Mingan Archipelago Salt Spring Island 719 tours 244-5 Brandywine Falls National Park 320 Toronto 73, 83 travel to/from 257-8 Provincial Park 675 Mississagi Provincial Vancouver 642, 643-4, travel within 258 Cape Breton Highlands Park 176 M-N 658, 668 walking tour 243, 243 National Park 378-9, Mt Assiniboine Provincial Victoria 696 wi-fi access 257 Park 750 617 ,616  Whistler 676 Montréal Jazz Festival 14, Cape Chignecto Mt Carleton Provincial Mary’s Point 420 33, 246, 14 Provincial Park 369-70 Park 400-2 Matane 308-9 Mont-Ste-Anne 290-1 Cape Scott Provincial Mt Revelstoke National Matapédia Valley 317 moose 29, 417, 857 Park 718 Park 747-8 Mauricie 269-71 Moose Factory 187-8 Carmanah Walbran Nááts’ihch’oh National Mayne Island 724 Moose Jaw 541 Provincial Park 701 Park 620 Meacham 549 Moosonee 187-8 Cathedral Provincial Nahanni National Park Reserve 620, 813-14 measures 878 Morrisburg 207 Park 731 New River Provincial media 849 motels 870 Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park Park 407 medical services 872 motorcycle travel 881, 544-5 Ouimet Canyon Mennonites 140 884-6 Dinosaur Provincial Provincial Park 184 Mt Assiniboine Provincial Merrickville 207 Park 622 Pacific Rim National Park 750 Meteghan 355 EC Manning Provincial Park Reserve 707-8 Mt Carleton Provincial Park Métis people 523, 552, Park 724-5 Parc de Miguasha 316 400-2 840-1, 848 Elk Island National Parc des Grands Jardins Mt Revelstoke National Midland 164-5 Park 570 293 Park 747-8 Mingan 320 Fundy National Park Parc des Hautes Gorges Mt Stewart 445-6 Mingan Archipelago 418-19 de la Rivière Malbaie mountain biking 854-5, see National Park 320 Garibaldi Provincial 296 also cycling Minto 788 Park 675 Parc National du Canada Canmore 587 Miquelon 480-3 Glacier National Park Forillon 311-12 Fernie 752 Miramichi 427-8 615, 748 Point Pelee National Fundy National Park 419 Miramichi River Valley 428-9 Goldstream Provincial Park 156, 616, 616 Jasper 607 Park 697 Mississagi Provincial Park 176 Presqu’ile Provincial Penticton 733-4 Grasslands National Park 196 mobile phones 24, 876 Quadra Island 716 Park 543 Prince Albert National Moncton 421-4, 422 Whistler 678 Gros Morne National Park 552-3 money 24, 25, 870-1, 873-4 Murray River 442 Park 488-92, 616 Prince Edward Island money pit 347 Museum of Anthropology Gwaii Haanas National National Park 446-7, Mont St-Pierre 310-11 645-6 Park Reserve 764-5 616, 616 Montague 443-4 Muskoka Lakes 158-62 Hecla-Grindstone Qaummaarviit Territorial Montgomery, Lucy Maud Provincial Park 524 Park 821 451 Hidden Lake Territorial Quttinirpaaq National Montmagny 302 N Park 806-7 Park 828-9 Montréal 229-58, 230, Nááts’ihch’oh National Ivvavik National Park Riding Mountain Park 620 232-3, 236-7, 240 619, 796, 619 National Park 526-7, accommodations 246-8 Nahanni National Park Jasper National Park 616, 616 Reserve 12, 620, activities 244-5 584-612, 615, 614 Sable Island 620, 620 813-14, 12 children, travel with 245 Juan de Fuca Provincial Sleeping Giant Provincial Nanaimo 702-5, 703 Park 699 Park 182 churches 239 Natashquan 321 Katannilik Territorial Spruce Woods Provincial coffee 252 national, provincial & Park 825 Park 525 drinking 253-4 territorial parks 613-20, Kejimkujik National Park Strathcona Provincial entertainment 254-6 796 351-2 Park 715-16 festivals & events 246 Algonquin Provincial Killarney Provincial Taylor Head Provincial food 248-53 Park 190-4 Park 174 Park 388-9 Arctic parks 796 Kluane National Park Aulavik National Park and Reserve 783-4 483-4 Map Pages 000 619, 817, 618 Thousand Islands Photo Pages 000 Auyuittuq National Park National Park 204 901 Tombstone Territorial food 457, 468 climate 818, 820 P Park 796 geography 459 fast facts 820 Pacific Rim National Park Torngat Mountains highlights 458 food 818 Reserve 707-8 National Park 507, 620 history 459 highlights 819 Pangnirtung 825-6 Tuktut Nogait National language 459 history 820 Panmure Island 442-3 Park 817 planning 459 tourist information 820 Parc de la Chute

Ukkusiksalik National Montmorency 290 INDEX Park 830 travel seasons 457 travel seasons 818 Parc de la Gaspésie 310 travel to/from 459-60 travel to/from 820 Parc de la Jacques Cartier 529, 619, 16, 618 newspapers 878

N-P  288 Wasaga Beach Provincial Niagara daredevils 127 O Parc de Miguasha 316 Park 166 169 Oak Hammock Marsh Parc des Grands Jardins Waterton Lakes National Niagara Falls 13, 122-30, 13 523-4 293 Park 615, 625-8 Niagara Peninsula 130-2 Ogema 542 Parc des Hautes Gorges de Wells Gray Provincial Niagara-on-the-Lake 132-5 oil 832-3 la Rivière Malbaie 296 Park 759 814-15 Okanagan Valley 727-43, Parc du Bic 305-6 Whiteshell Provincial North Bay 188-90 729 Park 525 Parc du Mont Orford 267 North Cape 456 Old York 73 Wood Buffalo National Parc du Mont-Mégantic North Hatley 267-8 Oliver 732 Park 629, 810-11 268-9 North Pacific Cannery 763 Writing-On-Stone Ontario 57, 62-224, 64, Parc du Mont-Tremblant Provincial Park 625 North Pender Island 721-2 136, 173, 191 262-3 615, North Rustico 450-1 accommodations 62 Parc National du Canada Forillon 311-12 749-50, 614 North Slave 807-8 climate 62, 65-6 National Gallery of Canada North Sydney 383-4 culture 65 Park Corner 452 209, 211 North Vancouver 667-9 driving distances 67 Parksville 705-6 Naufrage 445 North Vancouver Island fast facts 63 Parrsboro 368-9 Nelson 754-7 716-18 food 62 Parry Sound 162-3 New Brunswick 58, northern lights 16, 30, geography 65-6 Pas, the 527 390-430, 391 529, 16 highlights 63 passports 880 accommodations 390 Northern Ontario history 65 Peace River 628-9 activities 397 172-90, 173 internet resources 63 Peggy’s Cove 344-5, 28 climate 390, 392 60, itineraries 66 Pemberton 682 797-817, driving distances 392 798 planning 63 Penticton 732-6 accommodations 797 fast facts 392 travel seasons 62 Percé 313-15 climate 797 food 390 travel to/from 67 Peterborough 195 fast facts 799 geography 392 opening hours 875 Petty Harbour 472 food 797 highlights 391 Orillia 158-9 phonecards 876 geography 799 history 392 Orwell 441-2 Pictou 372-3 highlights 798 itineraries 397 Osoyoos 728-31 pirates 834 history 799 language 392 Ottawa 208-24, 210-11, 216 Pisew Falls 528 itineraries 800 travel seasons 390 accommodations 215-18 planning, see also tourist information 801 travel to/from 392-3 activities 213-14 individual locations travel seasons 797 New Carlisle 315 children, travel with 214 budgeting 25 travel to/from 799 New Glasgow (Nova drinking & nightlife 221-2 calendar of events 31-5 travel within 799-800 Scotia) 373 entertainment 222 Canada basics 24-5 Nova Scotia 58, 328-89, New Glasgow (Prince festivals & events 214-15 Canada’s regions 57-60 Edward Island) 449-50 330-1 gay & lesbian travelers children, travel with 52-6 accommodations 328 New London 452 221-2 internet resources 25 climate 328 New Richmond 316 food 218-21 itineraries 36-43 culture 329 New River Provincial itineraries 208 repeat visitors 26 Park 407 fast facts 329 shopping 222-3 travel seasons 24, 31-5 New Westminster 671 food 328 sights 209-13 Point Pelee National Park New World Island 484-6 highlights 330-1 tourist information 223 156, 616, 616 Newfoundland 58, 457-509, history 329 tours 214 Point Prim 442 458 travel seasons 328 travel to/from 223 Pointe a La Croix/ accommodations 457 travel to/from 329-32 Listuguj 317 travel within 223-4 climate 457, 459 travel within 332 Pointe à la Garde 316-17 Ouimet Canyon Provincial customs 469 Nunavik 327 Park 184 Pointe-des-Monts 318 driving distances 460 Nunavut 60, 818-30, 819 oysters 453 polar bears 29, 529, 530, fast facts 461 accommodations 818 827, 857, 21, 30 902 politics 833 fast facts 226 ride-sharing 887 Jasper Town to Maligne pond hockey 401 food 225, 226 Riding Mountain National Lake 605 Pond Inlet 827-8 geography 228 Park 526-7, 616, 617 Kennebecasis River population 833 highlights 227 Riel, Louis 523, 552, 840-1 Valley 418 Port Alberni 706-7 history 228 Rimouski 306-7 Lower St John River Valley 399 Port au Choix 492-3 internet resources 226 Rivière du Loup 303-5

INDEX INDEX Manitoba 525 Port aux Basques itineraries 226 Rivière Éternité 300 New Brunswick 399, 418, 499-501, 500 road rules 886 travel seasons 225 420, 429 Port Carling 161 road trip music 51 travel to/from 229 Niagara Peninsula 130-1 P-S Porter Airlines 119 Roberts Creek 684  Québec City 14, 271-87, Nova Scotia 50-1 postal services 875 272, 274, 276, 14 rock climbing 855 Okanagan Lake 734 poutine 284, accommodations 280-2 Canmore 587 860 Ontario 48 Powell River 685 activities 279 Penticton 734 Robert Campbell powwows 171, 366, 372, children, travel with 279 Rocky Mountains 10, Highway 782 443, 537 743-58, , drinking 284-5 746-7 10 Route 138 (Québec) 504 prairies 17 entertainment 285 rodeos 562, 576, 18 to Prescott 205-7 festivals & events 280 root cellars 479 Manitoba 185 Presqu’ile Provincial food 282-4 Rosseau 161 Yukon Territory 782 Park 196 free attractions 278 Rossland 754 scenic flights 813 Prince Albert National Park highlights 273 Rustico 448-9 seafood 29 552-3 shopping 285 seal hunting 490 Prince Edward County sights 272-9 196-9 S Seaside Adjunct tourist information 285-6 (Kejimkujik National Prince Edward Island 58, Sable Island 388, 620, 620 tours 279-80 Park) 352 431-56, 432-3 Sackville 424 Sechelt 684-5 accommodations 431 travel around 286-7 safe travel Sept Îles 318-19 climate 431 travel to/from 286 hitchhiking 886 Service, Robert 775 culture 434 Québec City’s Winter road hazards 886 Carnival 31 Seven Years’ War 837 food 431 Toronto 118 Québec’s separatism 843 Shaw Festival 134 highlights 432-3 women travelers 878-9 Queen Charlotte Islands, Shediac 425 history 434 Saguenay 297-302 see Haida Gwaii Shelburne 353-4 travel seasons 431 Sahtu 814-15 Quttinirpaaq National Sherbrooke (Nova Scotia) travel to/from 434-5 Park 828-9 Saint John 412-17, 414 388 Prince Edward Island Salmon Glacier 771 Sherbrooke (Québec) 268 National Park 446-7, Salt Spring Island 719-21 shopping, see markets, 616, 448-9, 616 R Sambro 344 individual locations Prince George 768-70 radio 878 Saskatchewan 59, 532-53, Shubenacadie 365 Prince Rupert 761-4 Radium Hot Springs 751 533 Siksika people 626 Prohibition 481 rafting 853-4, see also accommodations 532 Skagway (Alaska) 786-7 Prospect 345 canoeing & kayaking climate 532, 534 skiing 851-2 provincial parks, see Banff Town 595 driving distances 534 Banff Town 595 national, provincial & Fraser River Canyon 725 fast facts 534 territorial parks Golden 748 Big White 741 food 532 public holidays 875, 876 Jasper 608 Blue Mountain 165-7 geography 534 puffins 479 Maitland 365-6 Canmore 587 highlights 533 Nahanni National Park festivals 32 Reserve 813 history 534 Fundy National Park 419 Q Wakefield 224 parks 534 Gros Morne National Quadra Island 716 Whistler 678-9 tourist information 535 Park 490 Qualicum Beach 705-6 Rankin Inlet 829-30 travel seasons 532 Grouse Mountain 668 Qu’Appelle Valley 540 Regina 535-40, 536 travel to/from 534-5 Jasper Town 608 Québec 57, 225-327, 227 Région Évangéline 455 Saskatoon 545-51, 546 Kananaskis 585 accommodations 225 Réserve Faunique des Chic Saturna Island 723-4 Lake Louise 602 climate 225, 228 Chocs 310 Sault Ste-Marie 176 Le Massif 291 culture 226 Resolute 828 scenic drives 28-9, 44-51 Marble Mountain 496 driving distances 229 Revelstoke 744-7 Acadian Peninsula 429 Mont Ste Anne 290-1 reversing rapids 413 Cabot Trail 376-82 Mont Sutton 265-6 Richmond 672-3 Dinosaur Trail 612, 621 Mont-Tremblant 261 Map Pages 000 23, 213, Fundy Trail Parkway 420 Nelson 755 Photo Pages 000 23, 33 Highway 1 726 Ottawa 213-4 903 Penticton 734 St-Gabriel de Valcartier Tofino 709-11, 854 Tyne Valley 455-6 Revelstoke 744-7 287-8 Tombstone Territorial St-Sauveur-des-Monts St-Jérôme 259 Park 796 259-60 Stoneham 288 Torngat Mountains U Ucluelet 711-13 Whistler 677 storm-watching 709 National Park 507, 620 Ukkusiksalik National Toronto 20, 67-122, , Yellowknife 801 Stowe, Harriet Beecher 154 69 Park 830

74-5, 78, 84, 21 INDEX slavery 153, 154, 353 St-Pierre 480-3 Uncle Tom’s Cabin 154 accommodations 94-100 Sleeping Giant Provincial Stratford 143-6 Underground Railroad activities 89-90 Park 182 Statford Theater 153, 154

children, travel with 73 S-V Smithers 767 Festival 32, 144 Unesco World Heritage smoking 878 Strathcona Provincial Park coffee 108 sites snowboarding 851-2, see 715-16 drinking & nightlife Banff National Park also skiing St-Sauveur-des-Monts 110-13 584-612 Banff Town 595 259-60 entertainment 113-17 Dinosaur Provincial Lake Louise 602 Sudbury 174-6 festivals & events 92-4 Park 622 Penticton 734 sugar shacks 266 food 100-10 Grand Pré National Whistler 677 Summerside 453-5, 454 gay & lesbian travelers Historic Site 26, 363-4 snowmobiling 175 surfing 27, 855 81, 112-13 Gros Morne National Souris 444-5 Sutton 265-6 itineraries 70 Park 488-92 sourtoe drink 794 swans 143 offbeat attractions 86 Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve 764 South Coast Outports Swift Current 543-4 shopping 117-18 502-3 swimming 90 sights 68-89 Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump 622-3 South Pender Island 721-2 Sydney 384-5 tourist information Jasper National Park South Slave 808-11 118-19 584-612 Southern Gulf Islands tours 90-2 Joggins 370 719-24, 720 T travel to/from 119-20 Tadoussac 297-9 Kluane National Park Southern Vancouver Island travel within 120-2 Tangier 389 and Reserve 783-4 697-700 walking tour 91, 91 Tatamagouche 371-2 Kootenay National Southwestern Ontario Toronto International Film Park 751 135-58, 136 taxes 874 Festival 94 Taylor Head Provincial Park L’Anse aux Meadows 493 sports, see activities, totem poles 767, 845 388-9 Lunenburg 348-50 adventure sports, tourist information 877 individual sports tea farm 700 Nahanni National Park tours 887 Reserve 813-14 spruce beetles 785 Telegraph Cove 718 Arctic 821 Parc de Miguasha 316 Spruce Woods Provincial telephone services 24, wine 364-5 Park 525 875-6 Québec Old Lower Town Yellowknife 801-3 276-7 Squamish 673-5 Temagami 188 Tracadie-Sheila 429 Québec Old Upper St Andrews by-the-Sea Terra Nova National Park Town 273 403-7, 404 483-4 train travel Red Bay 506 St Ann 450 territorial parks, see to/from Canada 881 Rideau Canal 213 St Anthony 494-5 national, provincial & within Canada 888 territorial parks Waterton Lakes National St Barbe 493-4 train trips 44-51, 177 Teslin 782 Park 625-8 St Jacobs 140 Trans-Canada Highway The Pas 527 14, 14 Wood Buffalo National St John’s 460-71, 462 Park 629 Thelon River 829 travel to/from Canada St Martins 417-18 theme parks, see 880-1 Yoho National Park St Peter’s 445-6 749-50 amusement parks travel within Canada 881-8 St Siméon 296 Thompson 527 traveler’s checks 874 St Stephen 403 Thompson Valley 724-7, Treaty of Utrecht 837 V St Thomas 150 725 trekking, see hiking vacations 875, 876 Ste-Anne de Beaupré 290 Thousand Islands 204, 48 Trent-Severn Waterway 197 Val Marie 543 Ste-Anne-des-Monts Thunder Bay 182-7 Trinity 476-8 Valcourt 266 309-10 tidal bores 366, 421 Trinity Bay 475 Val-David 260-1 Ste-Flavie 307-8 tides 413, 419 Trois Pistoles 305 Vancouver 12, 634-67, 635, Ste-Irénée 294 Tignish 456 Truro 366-7 638-9, 12 Ste-Rose du Nord 301-2 time 24, 876-7 Tuktoyaktuk 817 accommodations 650-3 Steveston 672-3 tipping 874 Tuktut Nogait National activities 647-8 Stewart 771 Titanic 332, 333, 461, 841 Park 817 breweries 660 788-9 tobacco growing 157 TV 878 children, travel with 643 Stewart-Cassiar Highway Tobique Valley 400-2 Twillingate Island 484-6 drinking & nightlife 768, 770 659-61 904 Vancouver continued Waterton Lakes National Windsor 153-5, 364-5 Y entertainment 661-3 Park 615, 625-8 windsurfing 855 Yarmouth 354-5 Watson Lake 781-2 farmers markets 658 wine 27, 132, 864-6 Yellowknife 800-6, 802 festivals & events 649-50 weather 24, see also books 865 Yoho National Park 615, individual regions food 653-9 festivals 31, 131, 155, 749-50, 614, 853 weights 878 gay & lesbian 649, 679, 866 Yorkton 551

INDEX INDEX Welland Canal 123 travelers 661 internet resources 865, Yukon Territory 60, 772-96, history 634, 647 Wells Gray Provincial 866 773 Park 759 itineraries 636 tours 130-1, 364-5 accommodations 772

V-Z Wendake 287  shopping 663-5 wine regions climate 772 Wentworth 371 sights 634-47 Niagara Peninsula 130-2 culture 774 West Coast Trail 708 tourist information 665 Okanagan Valley 730-1 environment 787 West Pubnico 354 tours 648-9 Vancouver Island 701 fast facts 775 West Vancouver 669-70 travel to/from 665-6 Wolfville 364-5 food 772 Western Arctic 815-17 travel within 666-7 Winnie the Pooh 182 highlights 773 whales 858-9 Vancouver Island 23, Winnipeg 512-23, 514, 516 history 774 whale-watching 29, 529, 686-718, 686-7, 23 accommodations 519 parks 774-5 858 Veregin 551 activities 513-18 tourist information 775 Avalon Peninsula 472-4 Vernon 741-3 children, travel with 518 travel seasons 772 Churchill 529 Victoria 687-97, 446, 688, drinking & nightlife 521 travel to/from 775 Digby Neck 357-8 690 entertainment 521-2 Grand Manan Island 411 Viking Trail 19, 488, 493, 19 festivals & events 518 St Anthony 494-5 Vikings 834-6, 494 food 519-21 Z Tadoussac 297-8 ziplining 496 Ville de Mont-Tremblant shopping 522 Telegraph Cove 718 zoos 261-2 sights 513-18 Victoria 689-91 African Lion Safari 136 visas 24, 877-8 tourist information 522 Assiniboine Park Zoo 518 volunteering 878 Whistler 675-83, 676 tours 517-18 BC Wildlife Park 726 White Night 94 travel to/from 522-3 Bird Kingdom 125 775-80, 776 travel within 523 W Whiteshell Provincial Calgary Zoo 573-4 walking, see hiking Winnipeg Jets 522 Park 525 Granby Zoo 265 walking tours Wolfville 362-3 white-water rafting, see Polar Bear Habitat & wolves 190 Montréal 243, 243 rafting Heritage Village 187 women travelers 878-9 Toronto 91, 91 wi-fi 873 Saskatchewan Forest Wood Buffalo National Park Wallace 370 wildflowers 529 Park & Zoo 547 629, 810-11 Wapusk National Park 529, wildlife 856-9, see also Valley Zoo 567 Wood Islands 442 619, 16, 618 individual species Victoria Bug Zoo 689 work 879 Wasaga Beach Provincial wildlife-watching 29 Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park 166 Williams Lake 759 Park 625

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 894

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Celeste Brash Thanks to Andrea Young at Destination Halifax Many thanks to the travelers who used the and Isabel MacDougall with PEI Tourism, to last edition and wrote to us with helpful the good folks of Digby Backpackers, Bear on hints, useful advice and interesting anec- the River and Kiwi Kaboodle, John Tattrie, eve- dotes: ryone at Authentic Seacoast in Guysburough, Amanda Rutland, Ann Poole, Anna Spruce, An- Coastal Adventures Sea Kayaking, Kate Prest thony Aarts, Anton Krist, Celine Castonguay, and Doug in Pictou, Isaac in Mabou, Sandra in Christian De Win, Dolores Wongel, Duncan Creignish, Beartown Baskets. Juana in North Spriggs, Erik Huber, Frank Smithson, Gemma Sydney and Brian and Al in Wolfville. I wish I Chapman, Giorgio Ferrante, Greg Hakonson, could work with Karla Zimmerman on every Hsuan Kai Kao, Joanna Emery, Katia Moretti, book. Biggest thanks as always to my family. Katrin Sippel, Kim Dorin, Mario Prim Silva, Mathilde Foix-Cablé, Matthew Lombardi, Pat John Lee Stevenson, Paul Sampson, Sebastian Cool, Thanks to the too-numerous-to-mention Stefan Memminger, Steve Power, Susan visitor center staff as well as the hundreds Mitchell, William & Mary Lawrence of locals I met en route for their friendly tips and advice for places to check out. I’d also especially like to thank my father – William AUTHOR THANKS Lee – for first bringing me to Vancouver for a Karla Zimmerman visit from the UK during the Expo ’86 world exposition all those years ago. Thanks to St John’s gurus Bryan Curtis, Sarah Mathieson and their compadres. Huge grati- Sarah Richards tude to Lisa Beran for woman’ing the wheel once again. Kudos to fellow scribes Celeste, Special thanks to Marie and Jean-François John, Ben, Andy, Sarah, Brendan, Caroline and in Percé, Bruno at Auberge St-Antoine, and RVB for awesome work. Thanks most to Eric all those friendly travellers who shared their Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life. Québec anecdotes, advice and impressions with me along the way. BEHIND THE SCENES 895 - - - Naomi Anita Banh, Hydrology Hydrology and Earth Thanks to Ryan SamanthaEvans, Forge, LarissaGenesys India, Frost, Paton, Jouve India, Trent Mazzy LunaPrinsep, Soo, Kerrianne Brian Southway, Turnbull Rosie Rosie Nicholson, Charlotte Gabrielle Orr, Stefanos Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garett, Rachel Imerson, Kelly Eve Cover Research Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic , , 11, 1633¬44. Mark , Dave Reede/Alamy Dave , Bruce Amy Amy Wendy Wendy Transit map: Vancouver TransLink Map © TransLink Vancouver map: Transit River, Whiteshell photograph: Cover your your welcoming and encouragement, the folks at for Stage keeping and Screen Travel me busy between gigs, Walker, and to Trish the best Mum in the world: you are always in my heart! ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & ‘Up (2007) McMahon TA dated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, System Sciences 2013. TransLink Manitoba Lester, my fearless co-pilot, Lester, the opinionated Susan Clarke, the organized Karla Zimmer man and the pinch-hitting Korina It’s Miller. always good to share BC with John At Lee. I am deeplyLP, indebted to the indefatigable Mark Griffiths, Martine and Power Saralinda who showed incredible Turner, understand ing when I needed it. And while there may not be golden bears, there is the golden Alexis who Averbuck, anddiscovered shared my love for this beautiful part of the world. Benedict Walker This work is dedicated to Cheryl and Bruce Cowie, and Jessica and Casey Labelle, my Canadian for family, whom my love and gratitude knows Wendy and no bounds. To Heatherfor keeping in Toronto me sane and the smiling. Delrues To and for Fauberts - - - Commissioning Editors Managing Editors Angela MartineEvans, Power, Tinson Assisting Editors Karafin, Kellie Langdon, Robyn Anne Loughnane, Mulvaney, Jennye Garibaldi, Korina Miller Coordinating Editors Tracy Saralinda Turner, Whitmey Senior Cartographer Griffiths Book Designer Wright guidebook Canada THIS BOOK Brash, Benedict Walker, Andy Brash, Benedict Walker, Symington, Caroline Sieg Planet’s Planet’s was researched and written by Karla Zimmerman, John Berkmoes, Ver Ryan Lee, Sarah Richards, Celeste This 12th edition of Lonely in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: and Brendan This Sainsbury. guidebook was commissioned The number of folks to thank outnumber Kermode bears, but ahere’s few: Russ and, and, with much love and gratitude, to Elena Rodríguez for Vázquez staying close while we’re far apart. Ryan Berkmoes Ver in Iqaluit and the guy with the spider wrench in Smith. Fort Thanks to Karla, Brendan and my fellow authors, my family for their support, José González Eliseo Vázquez for getting me to that flight when all was lost, Particular thanks go to Eena Angmarlik, Aaron Sarah Jancke, Spitzer, Duinker, Ted Ooleepeeka Arnaqaq, Louis James Robillard, Williams, James Mike Paris, andFreeland Bronwen Livingston, Richard Zaidan, Omar Andy Symington The kindness and hospitality shown to me in Nunavut and the NWT was extraordinary. Caroline Sieg Thanks to everyone who shared their tips with me and for the friendly conversations at all the local watering holes, where (thank fully) few things change. my my wife Liz and son seven-year-old Kieran for their company on the road, and to my sis-in-law Tina for Varughese putting me up in Calgary. Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist info volunteers, guides, res taurateurs, coffee baristas, theatrical per formers and indie punk rockers who helped me during my Special research. thanks to Brendan Sainsbury ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 910

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkeling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking BART station Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Boston T station Bus Areas Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Airport/Runway Sleeping Cycling Camping Ferry Beach/Desert Metro/Muni station Cemetery (Christian) Eating Monorail Eating Parking Cemetery (Other) Petrol station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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