Australia Twice Traversed, the Romance of Exploration by Ernest Giles
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Australia Twice Traversed, The Romance of Exploration by Ernest Giles Australia Twice Traversed, The Romance of Exploration by Ernest Giles Produced by Sue Asscher and Colin Beck AUSTRALIA TWICE TRAVERSED. THE ROMANCE OF EXPLORATION, BEING A NARRATIVE COMPILED FROM THE JOURNALS OF FIVE EXPLORING EXPEDITIONS INTO AND THROUGH page 1 / 757 CENTRAL SOUTH AUSTRALIA, AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA, FROM 1872 TO 1876. BY ERNEST GILES FELLOW, AND GOLD MEDALLIST, OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. "GO FORTH, MY BOOK, AND SHOW THE THINGS, PILGRIMAGE UNTO THE PILGRIM BRINGS." BUNYAN. (PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR. Signed: "Yours faithfully, Ernest Giles.") CONTENTS. AUTHOR'S NOTES. INTRODUCTION. page 2 / 757 PREFACE. BOOK 1. CHAPTER 1.1. From 4th to 30th August, 1872. CHAPTER 1.2. From 30th August to 6th September, 1872. CHAPTER 1.3. From 6th to 17th September, 1872. CHAPTER 1.4. From 17th September to 1st October, 1872. CHAPTER 1.5. From 1st to 15th October, 1872. CHAPTER 1.6. From 15th October, 1872 to 31st January, 1873. BOOK 2. CHAPTER 2.1. From 4th to 22nd August, 1873. CHAPTER 2.2. From 22nd August to 10th September, 1873. page 3 / 757 CHAPTER 2.3. From 10th to 30th September, 1873. CHAPTER 2.4. From 30th September to 9th November, 1873. CHAPTER 2.5. From 9th November to 23rd December, 1873. CHAPTER 2.6. From 23rd December, 1873 to 16th January, 1874. CHAPTER 2.7. From 16th January to 19th February, 1874. CHAPTER 2.8. From 20th February to 12th March, 1874. CHAPTER 2.9. From 12th March to 19th April, 1874. CHAPTER 2.10. From 20th April to 21st May, 1874. CHAPTER 2.11. From 21st May to 20th July, 1874. BOOK 3. CHAPTER 3.1. From 13th March to 1st April, 1875. page 4 / 757 CHAPTER 3.2. From 2nd April to 6th May, 1875. BOOK 4. CHAPTER 4.1. From 6th May to 27th July, 1875. CHAPTER 4.2. From 27th July to 6th October, 1875. CHAPTER 4.3. From 6th October to 18th October, 1875. CHAPTER 4.4. From 18th October to 18th November, 1875. BOOK 5. CHAPTER 5.1. From 18th November, 1875 to 10th April, 1876. CHAPTER 5.2. From 10th April to 7th May, 1876. CHAPTER 5.3. From 7th May to 10th June, 1876. CHAPTER 5.4. From 11th June to 23rd August, 1876. page 5 / 757 CHAPTER 5.5. From 23rd August to 20th September, 1876. APPENDIX. INDEX. ILLUSTRATIONS. PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR. CHAMBERS' PILLAR. THE MOLOCH HORRIDUS. VIEW IN THE GLEN OF PALMS. PALM-TREE FOUND IN THE GLEN OF PALMS. GLEN EDITH. PENNY'S CREEK. page 6 / 757 ESCAPE GLEN--THE ADVANCE. ESCAPE GLEN--THE RETREAT. MIDDLETON'S PASS AND FISH PONDS. JUNCTION OF THE PALMER AND THE FINKE. AN INCIDENT OF TRAVEL. TIETKENS'S BIRTHDAY CREEK AND MOUNT CARNARVON. ON BIRTHDAY CREEK. ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES AT "THE OFFICER," MUSGRAVE RANGE. THE FAIRIES' GLEN. ZOE'S GLEN. THE STINKING PIT. page 7 / 757 ATTACK AT FORT MUELLER. DRAGGED BY DIAWAY. ATTACK AT SLADEN WATER. GILL'S PINNACLE. VIEW ON THE PETERMANN RANGE. ATTACK AT THE FARTHEST EAST. MOUNT OLGA. CIRCUS WATER. FIRST VIEW OF THE ALFRED AND MARIE RANGE. THE LAST EVER SEEN OF GIBSON. ALONE IN THE DESERT. page 8 / 757 JIMMY AT FORT MCKELLAR. THE HERMIT HILL AND FINNISS SPRING. WYNBRING ROCK. LITTLE SALT LAKE. IN QUEEN VICTORIA'S DESERT. QUEEN VICTORIA'S SPRING. ATTACK AT ULARRING. FORCING A PASSAGE THROUGH THE SCRUBS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. FIRST VIEW OF MOUNT CHURCHMAN. THE FIRST WHITE MAN MET IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. ARRIVAL AT CULHAM (SAMUEL PHILLIPS'S). page 9 / 757 ARRIVAL AT PERTH. ARRIVAL AT THE TOWN HALL, PERTH. FAREWELL TO WESTERN AUSTRALIA. GLEN ROSS. GLEN FERDINAND. MAP OF FIRST EXPEDITION, 1872. MAP OF SECOND EXPEDITION, 1873-4. MAP OF AUSTRALIA, SHOWING THE SEVERAL ROUTES. MAP OF THIRD EXPEDITION, 1875. MAP OF FOURTH EXPEDITION, 1875. MAP OF FIFTH EXPEDITION, 1876. page 10 / 757 AUTHOR'S NOTES. The original journals of the field notes, from which the present narrative is compiled, were published, as each expedition ended, as parliamentary papers by the Government of the Colony of South Australia. The journals of the first two expeditions, formed a small book, which was distributed mostly to the patrons who had subscribed to the fund for my second expedition. The account of the third, found its way into the South Australian "Observer," while the records of the fourth and fifth journeys remained as parliamentary documents, the whole never having appeared together. Thus only fragments of the accounts of my wanderings became known; and though my name as an explorer has been heard of, both in Australia and England, yet very few people even in the Colonies are aware of what I have really done. Therefore it was thought that a work embodying the whole of my explorations might be acceptable to both English and Colonial readers. Some years have been allowed to elapse since these journeys were commenced; but the facts are the same, and to those not mixed up in the adventures, the incidents as fresh as when they occurred. Unavoidably, I have had to encounter a large area of desert country in page 11 / 757 the interior of the colonies of South Australia, and Western Australia, in my various wanderings; but I also discovered considerable tracts of lands watered and suitable for occupation. It is not in accordance with my own feelings in regard to Australia that I am the chronicler of her poorer regions; and although an Englishman, Australia has no sincerer well-wisher; had it been otherwise, I could not have performed the work these volumes record. It has indeed been often a cause of regret that my lines of march should have led me away from the beautiful and fertile places upon Australia's shores, where our countrymen have made their homes. On the subject of the wonderful resources of Australia I am not called upon to enlarge, and surely all who have heard her name must have heard also of her gold, copper, wool, wine, beef, mutton, wheat, timber, and other products; and if any other evidence were wanting to show what Australia really is, a visit to her cities, and an experience of her civilisation, not forgetting the great revenues of her different provinces, would dispel at once all previous inaccurate impressions of those who, never having seen, perhaps cannot believe in the existence of them. In the course of this work my reader will easily discover to whom it is dedicated, without a more formal statement under such a heading. The preface, which may seem out of its place, is merely such to my own journeys. I thought it due to my readers and my predecessors in the page 12 / 757 Australian field of discovery, that I should give a rapid epitome (which may contain some minor errors) of what they had done, and which is here put forward by way of introduction. Most of the illustrations, except one or two photographs, were originally from very rough sketches, or I might rather say scratches, of mine, improved upon by Mr. Val Prinsep, of Perth, Western Australia, who drew most of the plates referring to the camel expeditions, while those relating to the horse journeys were sketched by Mr. Woodhouse, Junr., of Melbourne; the whole, however, have undergone a process of reproduction at the hands of London artists. To Mrs. Cashel Hoey, the well-known authoress and Australian correspondent, who revised and cleared my original manuscripts, I have to accord my most sincere thanks. To Mr. Henniker-Heaton, M.P., who appears to be the Imperial Member in the British Parliament for all Australia, I am under great obligations, he having introduced me to Mr. Marston, of the publishing firm who have produced these volumes. I also have to thank Messrs. Clowes and Sons for the masterly way in which they have printed this work. Also Messrs. Creed, Robinson, Fricker, and Symons, of the publishing staff. The maps have been reproduced by Weller, the well-known geographer. (ILLUSTRATION: Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society of London. "Victoria D.G. Britanniarum Regina, 1837, Patrona. Or, Terras Reclusas, Ernest Giles, 1880.") page 13 / 757 INTRODUCTION. Before narrating my own labours in opening out portions of the unknown interior of Australia, it will be well that I should give a succinct account of what others engaged in the same arduous enterprise around the shores and on the face of the great Southern Continent, have accomplished. After the wondrous discoveries of Columbus had set the Old World into a state of excitement, the finding of new lands appears to have become the romance of that day, as the exploration by land of unknown regions has been that of our time; and in less than fifty years after the discovery of America navigators were searching every sea in hopes of emulating the deeds of that great explorer; but nearly a hundred years elapsed before it became known in Europe that a vast and misty land existed in the south, whose northern and western shores had been met in certain latitudes and longitudes, but whose general outline had not been traced, nor was it even then visited with anything like a systematic geographical object. The fact of the existence of such a land at the European antipodes no doubt set many ardent and adventurous spirits upon the search, but of their exploits and labours we know nothing. The Dutch were the most eager in their attempts, although Torres, a Spaniard, was, so far as we know, the first to pass in a voyage from page 14 / 757 the West Coast of America to India, between the Indian or Malay Islands, and the great continent to the south, hence we have Torres Straits.