Georgetown, Penang

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Georgetown, Penang Georgetown, Penang Arman Shah visits charming Georgetown in Penang and shares the many gems which he chanced upon while exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Georgetown – named after King George III of Britain – is the capital of Penang in Malaysia. It’s come a long way since first being discovered in 1796 by Captain Francis Light, a trader from the British East India Company. The passing of time saw the charming town being listed as one of the official UNESCO World Heritage Sites, thanks to its unique architectural townscape that’s predominantly characterised by colourful rows of preserved shop houses. Ever since this prestigious inscription in 2008, I was very keen to visit Georgetown – and that was exactly what I did! Below is a list of the many gems I discovered while exploring its vibrant streets. Goddess of Mercy Temple Situated along Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is the 200-year-old Goddess of Mercy Temple. Also known as Kuan Im Teng, this venerated place of worship is popular during Chinese New Year when devout Taoists – both local and foreign – congregate there in the hundreds to pray for health and fortune. Fortunately, I visited on a random day and had the luxury of space to freely explore the temple grounds. As I studied the fearsome lions and dragons that embellish its façade, I couldn’t help but wonder if these ceramic guardians were responsible for the temple miraculously surviving the horrific bombings during the Japanese Occupation. Kapitan Keling Mosque Another monumental place of worship is the Kapitan Keling Mosque on Pitt Street. As I circled the perimeters of its main praying section – outsiders are not allowed to cross unless they intend to pray – I was practically walking on a great piece of history. This iconic mosque was named after Cauder Mohudden, the headman of the South Indian community of traders. Touted as the “Capitan Kling”, he brought Indian builders to construct the edifice upon receiving a letter of authorisation from the government. The mosque underwent various stages, starting out as a humble attap mosque before becoming the grand off-white structure that’s virtually impossible to miss today. Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi Clan House I personally found the kongsi – otherwise known as “clan halls” or Chinese migrant communities sharing the same surname – very fascinating. With that established, I just had to pay the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi clan house a visit, even if I had to pay 10 ringgit for entry. It was the former residence of the benevolent Khoo clansmen who travelled from China to the promised new lands of Malaya. Referred to as the ‘Heritage of Jewel Penang”, this stunning museum is a recreation of the old building that was destroyed in the 1901 fire. The majestic edifice that stands today features a myriad of mural paintings and gorgeous gilded gold-leaf works. Chew Jetty Speaking of kongsi, a great way to get educated on these different Chinese groups is by visiting the various clan jetties. Each jetty has been named after a different clan of Chinese migrants who till today inhabit houses built on stilts, creating a unique waterfront community that serve as a remnant of Penang’s age-old Chinese settlements. There are currently six of them still in existence, and I decided to check out the Chew Jetty, the most tourist-friendly of the lot. It was lovely witnessing a simple way of life by the water. Street Art by Ernest Zacharevic Dubbed Malaysia’s answer to Banksy, Ernest Zacharevic has undoubtedly helped put Penang on the world map. Ever since the Lithuanian-born artist was invited to paint the walls of Georgetown with his unique brand of 3D street art at the Georgetown Festival, travellers come from far and wide to photograph his interactive masterpieces. More than just using paint as a medium, Ernest collects unused material and incorporates them into his work to make them interactive, and I went on a fun quest for them with a trusty map and camera in hand. You can view those images here. Hameediyah Restaurant Where food’s concerned, few eateries in Georgetown have endured the passing of time quite like Hameediyah Restaurant has. This Indian Muslim establishment has been operating along Lebuh Campbell since 1907, making it Penang’s oldest restaurant. I made my way there on a Thursday afternoon and was greeted by the aroma of fragrant curry wafting up my nostrils. Upon making my order, I seated myself on the second floor and waited a mere 15 minutes before lunch was served by a good-humoured Indian man. Just one bite of my chicken biryani which I downed with a sip of hot milk tea and I understood the reason for the restaurant’s longevity – the food was simply divine. ChinaHouse Café If you’re looking for a dining experience that’s a tad more hip and contemporary, pop into any one of the many boutique cafés that has opened up in Georgetown over the past couple of years. As I wanted to try something a little bit old school, I made my way to ChinaHouse along Lebuh Pantai. The café is set within a compound of three shop houses that serve as a hybrid space for an art gallery, coffee shop and performance venue. My friend and I sat ourselves at kopi-C, the Australian- inspired in-house eatery that dedicated a whole table to a myriad of cakes and ordered the Fabolous Banana Cake priced at 12RM per piece – it was decadent! .
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