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Home , Fort Cornwallis, Goddess of Mercy Temple, Kapitan Keling Mosque, Penang

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eorge Town, a tidy grid of streets splayed DIRECTORY over a cape that juts east to the Malaysian mainland, is compact and walkable. With House a townscape consisting mostly of low-rise 153 & 155 Beach Street structures, some dating back to the 18th Opens 9am-11pm, daily century,G it’s a refreshing antidote to the sprawling, Tel +604 263 7299 traffic-choked and skyscraper-pocked megacities that chinahouse.com.my have come to dominate much of the rest of Asia. George STROLL Town’s lively hawker scene has long attracted Asian Sekeping Victoria foodies and its charmingly decrepit pre-World War II 164A-B Lebuh Victoria architecture has always drawn the intrepid traveller willing Tel +6012 206 2846 to forego characterful lodgings; but these days, thanks in sekeping.com/victoria part to its 2008 designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is popping up on South East Asian bucket Ren i Tang THROUGH lists as boutique hotels and cafés proliferate along its 82A Lebuh once sleepy lanes. Yet George Town remains remarkably Tel +604 250 8383 real, and its singular personality – born of a trading port renitang.com past and melting pot population – is still evident. In 1786 Captain Sir – a merchant for The Daily Dose Café the British – claimed Penang as 8C, Lebuh Carnarvon HISTORY a trading base and soon after began constructing Fort Opens 10am-7pm, Thu- Cornwallis on the tip of the cape. The stone fort still Tue, closed Wed George Town, Penang boasts a long and stands, facing the butter-yellow Penang and the Tel +604 261 2063 white wedding cake City Hall across the grassy padang, facebook.com/ site of dawn and dusk circumambulations by resident TheDailyDoseCafe illustrious history, making it one of the most fitness buffs. Standing on Light Street with your back to the fort, you are surveying George Town’s earliest Eté Café colourful and vibrant cities in . incarnation: a neat square bordered by Light, Pitt, Beach 79, Lebuh Carnarvon and Chulia streets that is now . Opens 12-6pm. Wed- Text Robyn Eckhardt Photos David Hagerman Penang – also known as Pulau Pinang – became a Mon, closed Tue busy port on the Asian spice route, attracting traders and Tel +6017 435 0922 immigrants who came on their own, or in the employ facebook.com/etecafe of their British colonisers, from Europe, the Middle East, southern India, China and the Malay Archipelago. The Kapitan newcomers’ legacy is writ large in George Town’s UNESCO Jalan Kapitan Keling conservation zone, an area of protected structures that Opens 1-5pm, Sat- stretches southwest from to Prangin Road Thu; 3-5pm, Fri and from Weld Quay, which runs along the causeway, Tel +604 264 3494 northwest to Penang Road. Street names like Malay, , China, St George’s Church and Armenia recall the ethnic communities who lived 1, Lebuh Farquhar and worked along them. The most well-known of the Opens 8:30am-12:30pm, Armenians are the of Raffles and E&O 1.30-4.30pm, Tue-Sat; fame. An amble the length of old Pitt Street – popularly services are held on Sun known as the Street of Harmony – reveals the former 8.30am and 10.30am. trading port’s multi-religious character; arrayed over four Tel +604 261 2739 blocks are St George’s Anglican church, a Chinese temple devoted to the Goddess of Mercy, the Hindu Sri Maha Mariamman temple and black-domed Kapitan Keling Jalan Masjid , which dates from the early 19th century. Then Opens 6am-8pm, daily there is the city’s street theatre, a seemingly endless cycle of religious celebrations and observances that range from Sri Maha Mariamman the (January or February) and Nine Emperor Temple Gods festival (October, usually) – both of which include Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling spectacular processions – to the Hungry Ghost festival, (in between Lebuh Pasar The E&O Hotel marked by the burning of paper and other offerings to and Lebuh Chulia) has been part of placate restless spirits who have returned to earth for the Opens 6am-9pm, daily Penang’s history lunar month. >> since 1885

goingplaces august2013 goingplaces august2013 40 WALK THIS WAY 41

Dotted around George Town are workshops If you like George Town, where craftsmen practice trades as they have you might also like done for ages past. In a cavernous structure in an alley off Kimberley Street, a family of kong-teik masters constructs, from nothing but printed paper and wooden sticks, houses and cars and meter-high funerary offerings. In other spaces around town artisans build trishaws, mould incense The Goddess of from sandalwood paste, knead flour and water into noodles, carve wooden signboards, chisel 1Freemantle, Western Mercy Temple stands as one tombstones and sew songkok, the caps worn by The port city is located at the of the oldest Muslim men, all by hand. mouth of the Swan River and temples on the George Town is best appreciated early in the is just a relatively short hop island morning, before the city revs up and the tropical away from Perth’s city centre. sun singes. As you walk, look up at the façades of Renowned for its eclectic and rowhouses that tell – by way of mix of trendy bars, eateries, The long entrance window height and shape, style of door and intricacy and shops, many of which way of the Kapitan of plaster decoration or lack thereof – both when housed in historical buildings, Keling Mosque they were built and the prosperity of their original Freemantle is one of the easiest owners. Take a turn down the back and side lanes and most relaxing cities to that demarcate rows of homes and shops and explore at a leisurely pace. observe the minutiae of daily life: homemade Chinese sausages hung to dry outside a kitchen door, laundry strung from a bamboo pole, residents Mobile hawker lighting a candle and laying sweets and a glass of tea stalls are still at a waist-high shrine. common place A historic site it may be, but George Town isn’t in George Town pickled in its past; the UNESCO designation may have 2Macau, China helped preserve pedigreed architecture and traditional Although it constantly lives trades and practices but it has also kick-started a up to its billing as the ‘Vegas distinctive urban renewal. Over the last five years the of the East’, Macau is a city authorities have undertaken greening and clean-up rich in and history. No ode to George Town would be complete without initiatives while residents, temples and neighbourhood From the ruins of St Paul’s a mention of its culinary delights. With hawker stalls on associations have restored properties, and shops, Cathedral to Senado Square street corners and kopitiam (Malaysian-style coffee shops) cafés, restaurants and galleries have opened in and A-Ma Temple, the city turning out innumerable specialties (char koay teow, previously unused or vacant buildings. serves up an amazing east- mee and spicy-sour-fishy assam , to name To get a sense of George Town’s revival head to meets-west vibe for a truly a few) day and night, the city can rightly lay claim to the Armenian Street, where a row of shophouses just memorable cultural encounter. title of South East Asian street food capital. Now that off Pitt Street sport newly renovated facades, and quirky personality-driven cafés like The Daily Dose, run tiny no-name indie stores, cafés and ‘antique’ shops by New Mexico native Tanya Sierra who infuses her menu A piping hot bowl of sit amidst a traditional ceramic wares emporium, with flavours of the American southwest, and Ete Café – Penang Prawn Mee bike rental spots and Hokkien clan temples. China featuring siphon-brewed coffee, pastel hued macaroons House, just south on Beach Street, set the bar for the and delicate sweets by Cordon Bleu-trained Taiwanese creative reuse of heritage structures when it opened pastry chef Chiang Tsung Hsun – have joined the mix, a little over 18 months ago. Occupying 900sqm in 3Valencia, Spain George Town can also claim to offer something for e three shophouses linked by an interior courtyard Managing to harmoniously very appetite. the rustically refurbished, eclectically furnished and blend its historical buildings always buzzing emporium houses a café, restaurant, and past with innovative and wine room, bar, workshop space and galleries. Sited modern architecture, Valencia in George Town’s old warehouse district, it’s been offers a unique charm that joined by Sekeping Victoria, a century-old warehouse has made it one of the most turned stylish guest house featuring airy minimalist unique cities in Europe. suites, indoor trees and complementary bicycles, and Considered by many as a centre flies Ren I Tang, a gorgeously rehabbed structure in the for international and avant- direct from Kuala middle of Little India. Formerly a Chinese medicine garde design, Valencia is also a Lumpur (KUL) to hall, it’s now a homey boutique hotel fitted out in popular choice for international Penang (PEN) daily recycled wood with interiors washed in a vibrant fairs and conferences. palette that reflects the pulsating neighbourhood in which it sits. goingplaces august2013 goingplaces august2013