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business A Target spokeswoman noted: “We have more than 120 stores in Florida and are currently anticipating the vast major- ity of them to be in the path of Hurricane Irma. This week, we’re providing stores Hurricane Irma Threatens with additional supplies that we know our guests need to stock up on, including water, batteries, flashlights, toiletries, camping supplies, cleaning supplies and Heavy Retail Impact non-perishable food. We’ll continue to push as many products to our stores as ● The storm could Puerto Rico we safely can before the hurricane hits. prepared for the We anticipate that Target stores will close provide a one-two onslaught of this weekend and will provide a store punch following Harvey. Hurricane Irma. closure list once it’s available. “We’ll work to reopen stores as quickly as By Sharon Edelson with possible, and have supply chain teams pre- contributions from Evan Clark paring to restock needed supplies as quickly as we can after the storm passes,” she said. As Hurricane Irma barrels toward Flor- “Target has a long-standing commitment ida and grows in strength, it threatens to to supporting our team and communities hit retailers even harder than when Har- before, during and after disasters.” vey flooded Houston just two weeks ago. A Kohl’s Corp. spokeswoman said of Some big chains, including Wal-Mart Hurricane Irma, “We are monitoring it at Stores Inc., are expecting to close more this point in time.” stores than they did in Texas and con- A J.C. Penney Co. Inc. spokesman said: sumers are primed to react quickly, given “Our teams are currently monitoring Hur- the wall-to-wall hurricane coverage and ricane Irma for any potential impact to J.C. forecasts that Irma will soon grow to be a Penney. We’ll continue tracking the storm’s potentially catastrophic category five storm. projected path over the coming days and Evan Gold, executive vice president for take all precautions to ensure the safety of global services at Planalytics, which tracks our associates and store locations. As with how businesses are impacted by weather, Hurricane Harvey, should Irma impact the said Harvey erased an estimated $1 billion communities we serve, the Golden Rule in retail sales. (That represents the actual Relief Fund — a program that provides sales lost, not purchase that were moved aid to associates experiencing financial up or deferred in the face of the storm). hardship caused by unforeseen situations “Irma by comparison is a larger storm such as natural disasters — will be available in terms of physical size,” Gold said. “It’s to assist associates in need.” a stronger storm and it’s taking aim at After Hurricane Harvey, the J.C. Penney Florida. It has the potential to impact a Company Fund committed to a $500,000 larger swath of land.” caused record-breaking flooding in and — water, flashlights, batteries and fuel grant to the Golden Rule Relief Fund, and Gold said consumers often go through around Houston, the resources — both cans. To help out with the Florida water as of last week, associates had contrib- “hurricane amnesia,” forgetting about financial and human — of some retailers situation, we’ve mobilized 800 truckloads uted an additional $25,000 to assist fellow past storms and not reacting to incoming and shopping centers could be strained by of water. Once again, we’re monitoring employees, the spokesman said. threats until the last minute. But with Irma. The storm’s negative impact to the and tracking the storm. We’re hoping for “Disasters don’t destroy demand, they Harvey so fresh in the mind, and the economy has been pegged by Accuweather that hard right turn in the Atlantic.” displace demand forward or back in time total fallout still being tabulated, he said at $160 billion, making it more costly than This wouldn’t be the first time Wal- or online, just as homeowners in Florida consumers appear to be stocking up now. Hurricanes Katrina and Sandy combined. Mart has dealt with two major hurricanes are now stocking up before Irma arrives,” That pattern could accelerate with more “Right now, we’re looking at a potential almost back-to-back. Hurricane Katrina, said Craig Johnson, president of Customer hurricane headlines as Irma hits Puerto impact to 400 stores” due to Hurricane the 2005 category five storm, was con- Growth Partners LLC. “Houston saw a Rico Wednesday. Irma, a Wal-Mart spokesman said. That’s sidered at the time to be the costliest shortfall in August retail sales of $1.6 Irma could cause life-threatening winds, far more than about 125 Wal-Mart, Sam’s weather event in the country’s history, billion, some 15 percent below normal storm surges and rainfall hazards to north- Club and Neighborhood Market stores, with an estimated $75 billion in damage monthly sales of $10.5 billion. With most eastern Leeward Islands Tuesday, the Virgin which were closed for several days due to to New Orleans and the Mississippi coast. stores open by Aug. 31, the shortfall is Islands and Puerto Rico today, according to Harvey. Katrina was followed two weeks later by already reversing out.” the National Hurricane Center. Hurricane The procedures for preparing for Hur- Rita, another category five hurricane that Online sales continued wherever watches were issued for the Dominican ricane Irma are “very similar to Harvey, devastated parts of southeastern Texas consumers had connectivity, and will nor- Republic, Haiti, the southeastern Bahamas, where we put in place an emergency and southwestern Louisiana, and signifi- malize as soon as homeowners return to and Turks and Caicos on Tuesday. center,” the Wal-Mart spokesman said. cantly impacted the Florida Keys. their residence and any last-mile delivery Irma could directly impact the Bahamas “We have an emergency center activated “We’re able to communicate with issues are resolved. Even if only 200,000 and Cuba as “an extremely dangerous for this one [Irma] as well.” the people in the Texas region,” the automobiles of the 500,000-plus vehi- hurricane later in the week,” the National “We’re working with our operations spokesman said, “and we’re moving into cles damaged by Harvey are replaced at Hurricane Center said. team on the ground as people are prepar- preparation mode for Irma. With the a blended average of $27,000 each, $5.4 Coming so close on the heels of Hurri- ing for the storm,” he said. “We’re making emergency operations center in place, billion in sales will be generated in the cane Harvey, a category four storm that sure we have the products people need we’re able to speak to both regions.” coming weeks, Johnson said.

business Hudson’s Bay Sees Sales Inch Up; Posts Wider Loss ● The Saks Fifth Avenue and Gilt percent. Consolidated comparable sales executive chairman Richard Baker to that reorganized its corporate teams and parent saw online sales grow also inched up by 0.4 percent. admit HBC is “optimistic about the cut 2,000 jobs in an effort to create 350 Earnings before interest, taxes, depre- remainder of the year.” million Canadian dollars in annual savings. by double digits and is gaining ciation and amortization came in at 207 “The current retail environment pro- That plan was rolled out along with ground in luxury. million Canadian dollars, compared to 263 vides both challenges and opportunities, first-quarter earnings that showed HBC’s million last year. and while it was a tough second quarter as net loss had grown to 221 million Canadian By Kali Hays Sales got a boost from digital, where con- expected, we continue to make the smart dollars from 97 million Canadian dollars in - EFE / RE X/ S hutterstock solidated revenue increased 12.7 percent, decisions necessary to succeed in this rap- the first quarter of 2016, on total retail sales The Hudson’s Bay Co. is still mid-”trans- but also from three new Saks locations and idly evolving landscape,” Baker added. down by 3 percent to 3.2 billion Canadian formation,” but its second-quarter sales 26 new Saks Off 5th locations. He also alluded to the possibility that dollars. are showing signs of improvement. The company pointed to handbags and some HBC real estate will be sold this “In these rapidly changing times, you The department store chain and oper- men’s as top performers at Saks and said year, saying “HBC has a long, successful need to react fast to the market,” HBC’s ator of Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue full-price sales in women’s showed a “nota- history of accretive transactions with chief executive officer Jerry Storch said at and Gilt posted a net loss of 201 million ble increase.” our real estate assets and we are actively the time. Canadian dollars ($162.3 million), an For the rest of the year, HBC said it will exploring further opportunities to build HBC noted that the reorganization is increase from 142 million Canadian dollars be focused on the digital presence of its on this track record.” “progressing as expected,” but that it will a year ago, on total retail sales of 3.3 banner stores. The results follow HBC’s decision earlier have “a much larger impact” on the latter EPA Llorca/ by R ico photograph uerto

P billion Canadian dollars, which are up 1.2 The second-quarter results led this year to create a “transformation plan” half of the year. © Paul Rousteau

From Thursday 28th September to Sunday 1st October 2017 Place de la Concorde, Paris Ready-to-wear collections → SS18 parissurmode.com september 6, 2017 5

business We have a strong relationship with our cus- tomers and, over the past 10 years, we’ve seen new customers.” She attributed this to “a precise message and clear communication” that has drawn Max Mara Unveils a younger and more aspirational consumer. “We’ve had a strong growth in the past six, seven years,” she observed, although she admitted there “has been an adjustment in Madison Avenue Flagship the U.S. in the past two years,” especially due to the slowdown in luxury spending ● The Italian group will hold a and the woes of department stores and the cocktail event on Sept. 8 with impact of digital technology. While Max Mara’s own stores help Bella Hadid, who fronts the American shoppers make contact with the brand’s accessories campaign. brand, wholesale also remains important to expand visibility, she added. Max Mara By Luisa Zargani is available at stores such as Saks Fifth Ave- nue, Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom, MILAN — New York is the biggest market but “traffic is different and shopping is in the U.S. for Max Mara and the Italian faster” than at one’s directly operated store, fashion group is paying attention. she noted. After six months of renovation, the Prezioso Maramotti said the company is brand’s newly redesigned flagship is mulling an opening on the West Coast in reopening on Madison Avenue and 2019. 68th Street on Friday with a cocktail event To mark the reopening of the Max Mara during New York Fashion Week. “This is the flagship, the company is exclusively launch- most important and biggest store for us in ing the Whitney Bag as a special edition in the U.S., we’ve expanded the three floors a mini version in leather and velvet in jewel and doubled the size of the windows on two tone colors such as emerald, sapphire, levels,” said Maria Giulia Prezioso Mara- The Max Mara Madison citrine, onyx and ruby. The bag, which has motti, director of North American retail Avenue flagship. a distinctive ribbing, is lined in the brand’s and a member of the third generation of the signature camel color and features crystal founding family. The entrance floor is made of ceppo only on design and architecture, but also details on the strap. While declining to provide financial stone, the same material used in Milanese on merchandising, with flexible features “It’s fun, perhaps more suited for the details, she said that New York is “is the palaces. Oak and gray pearl marble in geo- to spotlight special collections or projects. evening,” said Prezioso Maramotti. number-one market” for the company in metric patterns cover the remaining floors. “For example, we want to be able to display Max Mara and the Renzo Piano Building the U.S. Walls alternate between stone and brass, all our knitwear in a way that allows customers Workshop collaborated on the original “We have been working on this project treated with an original Tuscan craftsmen to see it right away. We’d like our customers creation of the Whitney Bag in May 2015 for the past three years,” said Prezioso technique that contrasts with the building’s to browse around on their own in a wel- to coincide with the opening of the new Maramotti. “It marks a new era for the com- original brick accents. “We are known as coming space that makes them feel free to Whitney Museum of American Art building, pany and it is the expression of Max Mara’s a brand for our research in fabrics and all contact a sales person for service.” designed by the Italian architect. retail. It blends the needs of creativity, dressing rooms are covered with Italian Clearly there is more technology involved Referring to the Whitney Bag as Max architecture and experience. It’s an import- fabrics,” said Prezioso Maramotti. today. “With the previous layout, there used Mara’s best-selling accessory, Prezioso ant achievement.” There are simple hanging structures to be more space for the cashier, for exam- Maramotti said the limited edition offers The first Max Mara store in the U.S. made of wood, iron and brass and a tubular ple, while now there are screens to project “another opportunity” to establish the style opened in San Francisco in 1987. Today, brass diffused chandelier, designed spe- stories and a digital platform is integrated in in consumers’ minds, defining the part- there are 18 units in the region, which ranks cifically for the location by Duccio Grassi the store so that customers can access the nership with the Whitney and the Renzo among the top five markets for the group. Architects. A fireplace adds a homey atmo- brand’s website through their iPads. There Piano Building Workshop “a game-changer, Located in a storied Victorian style build- sphere and there are winter gardens on the is an integration of the two platforms,” she offering a presence and appreciation that ing covering about 5,000 square feet, the second and third floors. In fact, Prezioso pointed out. perhaps we did not have before.” boutique on Madison Avenue first opened Maramotti compared the changes made to Prezioso Maramotti, who has been in Bella Hadid, who fronts the accessories in 1994 with an award-winning restored the store to those that could be made by a charge of the area for the past five years, ad campaign for the brand, will attend neoclassical facade. Redesigned by Duccio young couple moving into an old, inherited said the store relies on a larger local client the cocktail event on Friday. “It’s the right Grassi Architects, the store today empha- family house. base compared to Europe, for example. moment for such an event, it’s been a while sizes the building’s historical nature as the “We opened up the space as the previ- Seventy percent of the Madison Avenue since our last one in the city,” Prezioso original walls, bricks and windows are no ous design was more in line with the trend store’s customers are from the area. Maramotti said. longer covered or obscured. “The original in the Nineties, with much more natural While outerwear is the leading category, The store opens with the fall collections bricks in white alternated with brass panels light,” she said. “The store has a more she has seen an increase in spending on across all core brands including Max create a luminous and less classic contrast,” modern look.” ready-to-wear, business wear, suits and Mara, Sportmax, ‘S Max Mara and Max said Prezioso Maramotti. Prezioso Maramotti said the focus is not dresses. “We have great satisfaction here. Mara Atelier.

fashion 2004 and 2010, is known for his mix of minimalism and irreverence. “It’s classic with a twist, but very simple. Guy Laroche It’s all about cut and material,” he told WWD. “In general, I prefer taking away rather than adding.” Appoints Richard René René plans to present fewer than 20 looks, exclusively in black and white, Creative Director during the display scheduled to take place at the Guy Laroche store on Rue François ● A veteran of brands including This follows recent changes in creative 1er in Paris in front of around 200 guests. direction at Lanvin, Givenchy and Chloé — “I really wanted a radical collection,” he Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermès, all of whom will be presenting collections said, noting black and white were the col- René succeeds American by new creative directors in the fall. ors favored by the brand’s founder. designer Adam Andrascik. “I grew up with the house of Guy Laro- The collection will carry a whiff of che symbolizing for me a kind of luxury Mireille Darc, the French actress who Richard René By Joelle Diderich and liberty. Guy Laroche was a bold fash- died last week at the age of 79. An icon of ion designer, a forerunner and he lived in a Sixties and Seventies French cinema, she worked at Jean Paul Gaultier as assistant PARIS — Guy Laroche has joined the ranks very liberated manner, just like the women famously wore a scoop-backed Guy Laro- on haute couture collections and accesso- of brands switching designers, WWD has he dressed. This is the spirit I would like che gown in one of her films. ries. He returned to the brand from 2007 learned. to trigger again and that seems to matter René said he wasn’t inspired specifically to 2011 as designer of men’s collections Richard René, a veteran of brands more than ever today,” René said. by that dress, which was featured in an and women’s pre-collections. including Hermès and Jean Paul Gaultier, The designer, who since 2014 had been exhibition at Paris’ Musée des Arts Déco- Having swept several prizes at the has taken the helm of the label and is creative director of French luxury swim- ratifs last year, but by all the other outfits Hyères International Festival of Fashion slated to show his first collection on Sept. wear brand Vilebrequin, said he looked Laroche designed for the actress. and Photography in 2004, René launched 27 during Paris Fashion Week. He succeeds forward to turning his hand again to wom- René began his career in 1994 at Hermès his own brand, showing intermittently as a American designer Adam Andrascik, who en’s ready-to-wear. René, who produced as assistant to then-creative director guest member on the French capital’s cou-

ara store photograph by Joshua S cott Joshua by photograph store M ara had held the post since 2015. a collection under his own name between Claude Brouet. Between 1997 and 2004, he ture calendar until the label folded in 2010. © Paul Rousteau

From Thursday 28th September to Sunday 1st October 2017 Jardin des Tuileries, Paris Accessory collections - SS18 premiere-classe.com september 6, 2017 7

beauty Comme des Garçons Bows Warhol’s You’re In ● The unisex perfume is throughout September, followed in Octo- based on an abandoned ber by perfumeries, concept stores and Comme des department stores that carry the brand’s fra- 1967 project involving Garçons/Andy grances. It is nearing a portfolio of 80 scents. Warhol “You’re Hermann reached out to Rei Kawakubo, Coca-Cola bottles, silver paint In” perfume. the creative maverick behind CDG and and a lemony cologne. Joffe’s wife, about four years ago to explore By WWD Staff possible collaborations. He recalled that Kawakubo arrived at NEW YORK — Oh that rascally Andy War- an initial meeting with sketches of a fully hol, naming a lemony perfume You’re In realized capsule collection. The T-shirts, and streaming it into Coca-Cola bottles. sneakers, backpacks and wraps — bearing While that 1967 project — exalting iconic Warhol portraits, cows and flowers Warhol’s “art is what you can get away — debuted in stores during Japan’s Golden with” mantra — was ultimately abandoned, Week holiday in 2013. Comme des Garçons has created a new Yet Kawakubo’s connections to Warhol version of the provocative unisex scent 30 stretch back to 1986, when he watched years later. fellow artist Jean-Michel Basquiat walk a Housed in industrial-looking silver col- Comme des Garçons fashion show in Brook- umns and displayed in bright yellow card- lyn. The creative trio repaired to Indochine board cases, You’re In is to debut Thursday splashed with famous Warhol quotes, Hermann estimates Warhol created “sev- for a dinner. Joffe was not present, so he is at Dover Street Market in New York. including, “I never read, I just look at eral dozen” of the works — 24 bottles to not sure what was said between Kawakubo “I just loved the idea,” said Adrian Joffe, pictures;” “In the future everybody will each wooden crate — in his possession at and Warhol, “both not people of many chief executive officer of Comme des be world-famous for fifteen minutes;” “If the time of his death. Considered an open words,” he noted. Garçons International and Dover Street everybody is not a beauty, then nobody edition, perhaps 100 were created, and To be sure, Warhol continues to cast a Market, revealing the project exclusively to is,” and “I never fall apart because I never collectors could purchase bottles individ- long shadow on popular culture. WWD. “They took some random cologne fall together.” ually. Over the past decade, individual “He’s still so relevant,” Hermann said. off the shelf of some terrible supermarket Market sources estimate the fragrance bottles have changed hands at private “What he stood for is an idea. He didn’t and filled up Coca-Cola bottles.” will generate $1.5 million at retail in the first auctions for prices ranging from $33,000 defy convention so much as ignore it.” One of Warhol’s most overlooked six months. to $121,000, he noted. He recalled that Warhol carried a point- works, You’re In was quickly stymied by Ten percent of proceeds are to be For the new version, Christian Astugue- and-shoot camera with him everywhere, a cease and desist letter from the drinks donated to the Warhol Foundation’s endow- vieille, creative director of Comme des documenting his meals, the places he giant, which did not look kindly on the ment fund. Since its inception in 1987 at the Garçons Perfumes, elaborated extensively went, the people around him — foreshad- artist’s cheeky use of the bottle, which he behest of the late artist, the fund has distrib- on Warhol’s off-the-shelf citrus concept. owing the age of Instagram. “His hyper-in- had spray-painted silver and capped with uted some $275 million in grants to support The chief top notes are bitter orange, dividuality is the world in which we live,” his initials. contemporary art, according to Michael aldehydes and makrut lime zest, the latter Hermann said. Comme des Garçons steered clear of any Dayton Hermann, director of licensing at common in Asian cooking. Jasmine, cori- Indeed, in the late Seventies, Warhol references to the famous soda, although The Andy Warhol Foundation. ander leaf and pittosporum comprise the updated his famous “fifteen minutes” quote the striking packaging — conceived by art “There aren’t many people who would middle notes while cashmere wood, musk to “In fifteen minutes everybody will be director Ronnie Cooke Newhouse — echoes really get the concept and they did,” and metallic amber reside at the base of famous,” which also appears on one bottle. Warhol’s gleeful appropriation of common Hermann said, noting that the You’re In fra- the fragrance. Dovetailing with the artists’ prescience household goods and corporate branding. grance “didn’t have the life that it deserved.” One hundred milliliters of the eau de about social media, Joffe and Cooke New- She, Joffe and the Warhol Foundation The perfume was conceived for an exhi- toilette will retail for $95. It will ultimately house tapped Eli Russel Linnetz, who has decided to avoid referencing any paintings bition titled “The Museum of Merchandise” roll out to about 200 doors, Joffe said, famously directed videos for Kanye West, to or illustrations. at the then Young Men’s Hebrew Associa- starting with all Comme des Garçons and make a video about You’re In that is sure to Instead, the boxes and bottles are tion in Philadelphia. Dover Street Market international stores go viral when it is released later this week.

business Scotch & Soda Opens Store At South Street Seaport ● The new location is the sixth “And we envision three more in the in New York City. New York area,” he said. “We don’t want to sound like Starbucks, opening on every By Jean E. Palmieri corner, but we think there’s an opportunity to open stores that are scalable to different NEW YORK — Scotch & Soda is adding to neighborhoods. So instead of opening on its cluster of stores in New York. Fifth Avenue or Madison Avenues, we’re The Scotch & Soda The Amsterdam-based sportswear brand opening stores that serve neighborhoods.” store at South has opened its sixth unit in Manhattan, a Although in its initial iteration South Street Seaport. 1,500-square-foot space at 18 Fulton Street Street Seaport was a huge tourist destina- at the South Street Seaport. tion, Hoffman said the redevelopment that features a nod to the history of the neighbor- — we don’t have a bad store here, that’s why Ari Hoffman, chief executive officer of is being undertaken will make the location hood. The original facade of the building, we keep adding locations. This is not just North America for Scotch & Soda, said more of a draw for locals. which dates to the 18th century, was showrooming, we expect to do business.” the company selects areas in which to The Howard Hughes Corp., which owns retained and its cast-iron columns restored. This is Scotch & Soda’s 25th store in the open stores and then blankets the market. the Seaport, is redeveloping the historic “The redevelopment of the original U.S. — there are also five in Canada and 194 Other clusters in the U.S. are Miami, San district, which dates to 1625, by modern- downtown waterfront destination, sur- worldwide. “Our aim and goal is to open Francisco and Los Angeles. “And we’re izing it and changing the offering, while rounded by historic buildings, Fulton Street around four stores a year,” Hoffman said. looking for a new cluster in Texas,” maintaining its heritage. The centerpiece Market and cobblestone streets is a natural “A lot of people talk about the death Hoffman said. Although the plan is not will be Pier 17, which is being rebuilt and environment for Scotch & Soda,” Hoffman of bricks-and-mortar,” he added, “but it to open there immediately, he knows remerchandised with higher-grade stores said. “The neighborhood’s authenticity and works for us. We have a three-channel that Houston will eventually recover and and restaurants from acclaimed chefs character align perfectly with our brand.” strategy: our own retail, e-commerce and Scotch & Soda will open a store there as Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who will also The store carries both men’s and wom- wholesale, and they’re all viable. But we well as in Dallas and Austin. do a fish market in the Tin Building, and en’s wear and Hoffman expects men’s to see more opportunities for retail stores as In New York, the brand operates stores David Chang of Momofuku. The Seaport account for around 60 percent of sales and rents come closer to earth.” in SoHo, Williamsburg, Union Square, on also will be home to the city’s first iPic women’s 40 percent. Prices include shirts Scotch & Soda has been owned by Sun Bleecker Street and Columbus Avenue. theater and will also boast an outpost for run from $95 to $145, sweaters for $100 to Capital Partners since 2011. Hoffman said Hoffman said the company is about to the first 10 Corso Como store in the U.S. $200, bottoms for $125 to $250 and outer- the private equity firm is “happy with announce a second location in “a very “The plans were very attractive to me,” wear for $175 to $400. the brand and happy to fuel our growth. cool neighborhood in Brooklyn,” believed Hoffman said. Hoffman declined to provide a volume We’re a big little brand. We’re racking up to be DuMBo, which will bring the total The new Scotch & Soda store on the projection, saying: “It will be a very success- almost $500 million in business around

oda photograph by Joshua S cott Joshua by & S oda photograph S cotch here to seven. corner of Fulton and Front Streets, also ful store. New York has been amazing for us the world, and growing.”

september 6, 2017 9

BEAUTY critical to showcasing bestsellers in limited retail space. “One thing that we’re trying to do is not influence them [influencers] with beauty Bobbi Brown to Tap Influencers, products. It’s not about talking beauty with them — they’re beauty experts already. We want to bring them beyond beauty and Introduce Lower-Priced Range experience New York City, the birthplace of Bobbi Brown,” Main said, switching her ● The brand is making Jenna Lyons is focus back to the week’s influencer festiv- sizable investments in Bobbi Brown’s ities, which has a dedicated #BBGirlCrush “ultimate girl hashtag. She noted that a key facet of the the online space. crush.” program is teaming up with “influential, By Rachel Strugatz crush-worthy, female entrepreneurs from different walks of life.” For instance, restaurateur and Cherry NEW YORK — It’s a new day at Bobbi Bombe founder Kerry Diamond will host Brown. a panel today, Crushing It in the Kitchen: The 25-year-old company, which late last Fashion + Food, featuring Bobbi Brown’s year saw the departure of founder Bobbi “ultimate girl crush,” Jenna Lyons; “Top Brown, is about to roll out a slew of mar- Chef” winner Kristen Kish, and Missy Rob- keting, influencer and product initiatives bins, the chef and owner of Lilia. to attract a younger customer — starting Part of the brand identifying Lyons as with a reportedly seven-figure investment its “ultimate girl crush” means the former in a global influencer program and a lower president of J. Crew will get to spearhead priced range. an influencer initiative of her own. She’s Sandra Main, global president of La Mer helping to cull an inaugural group of 50 and Bobbi Brown, who stepped into the influencers “from all walks of life” that will latter role in July, has been charged with make up a Pretty Powerful Collective that reinvigorating The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Pamela Allier and Kika Silva will be unveiled early next year. (Also, a brand. During an interview Tuesday morn- Crushing it in NYC with Bobbi Brown. The coral shade of the Crushed matte lip color, ing at Bobbi Brown’s headquarters in SoHo festivities kicked off Sept. 4 and will culmi- “Jenna,” was named in Lyons’ honor.) here, Main was clear that the tenet Brown nate tonight in the Crush Carnival Soiree “One thing I’ve noticed in that genre built her brand on — makeup as a way at The Glasshouses in Chelsea. Among the [beauty], is that people have a tendency to to enhance one’s natural beauty — won’t influencers in attendance: Sazan Hendrix self-select in a niche and it doesn’t allow change. (829,000 followers on Instagram), Jacey you to see beauty outside of what you’re “We’re going to be doing four to five Duprie (424,000 followers on Instagram), looking at, what you know and what you times the investment in influencers and Makeup Shayla (2.5 million followers on Ins- feel comfortable with — and today it’s more digital activations — starting now,” Main tagram), Becky Li (2.24 million followers on important than ever,” Lyons said of the said, declining to give a dollar amount. Weibo) and Yuri Kwon (4.7 million followers Collective, which will include teachers and “We’re not changing our philosophy. We’re on Instagram). chefs. not changing how we express ourselves — Billed as a “lipstick with the feel of a Main chimed in that the majority of Col- but the platforms that allow us to express balm,” Crushed lipstick’s $29 price point but she hopes these launches skew more lective content will live online, with support ourselves are so much broader in today’s is about 17 percent less than the luxe lip toward an “older Millennial,” or someone from strategic off-line activations. world that it gives us the opportunity to category average. It’s the first of three items in their late 20s to 35 years old. “We’re taking the same values as Bobbi’s speak to a much larger community and for that will roll out in the next year that will be The brand will also streamline its large — it was her, she was the influencer — and that community to speak on our behalf, as 15 to 20 percent cheaper than the existing assortment and shift its focus to hero prod- broadening that into multiple influencers. well.” collection, according to Main, including a ucts. In the past, Main said Bobbi Brown It’s not changing the brand; it’s reinforcing Bobbi Brown, which was built on a complexion product in January and another took an “equal approach” instead of identi- who we are, but broadening it to allow singular point of view and voice, will for item in the lip group next fall. No prices of fying a smaller selection and amplifying the more people to be part of it,” Main said, the first time leverage influencers to help current products will change. messaging around it. This curation of brand adding that product co-creation with influ- create a collective perspective and build an The impetus for “Tier 0” pricing, Main offerings will have the greatest impact encers à la Becca is something the brand online community. To promote the launch explained, is to appeal to a younger cus- abroad, and especially in China, where the will pursue, as well as larger-scale ambas- of its new Crushed Lip Color, the brand flew tomer where they shop, with an emphasis brand will enter Sephora this month. She sadorships and community integration in 25 influencers from 16 global markets on multibrand specialty stores. The average pointed out that, from a merchandising per- programs that use crowdsourcing to help for a “girl crush” themed three-day event, age of Bobbi Brown’s consumer is 38, spective, an edited selection of products is with product development.

beauty Kevyn Aucoin Beauty Re-brands With Digital Focus ● The pivot coincides with with educational materials consisting of platforms as #TeamKevyn with content a makeup artist,” Bartok said on why she the 20th anniversary of the illustrated and video tutorials and digitized created by the brand and by consumers. created the film. “His ability to take regular pages from Aucoin’s “Making Faces” book, “The long-term vision for the brand is people, who could not otherwise find their “Making Faces” book and the which is also celebrating its 20th anniver- empowering women to create their own beauty, and create a new way for them to 15th anniversary of the brand. sary. According to the brand, Kevyn Aucoin vision of beauty,” she said, noting that con- see themselves made me feel that makeup Beauty has performed well among influ- sumers will be encouraged to generate their was for absolutely everyone and not for an By Layla Ilchi encers and makeup artists, however it is own content. For the book’s anniversary, elite group of people.” embarking on this digital focus to attract a the brand is launching a limited-edition The brand will continue expanding its Fifteen years after the makeup artist younger consumer who may not be familiar product called The Making Faces Beauty distribution for the rebrand primarily created his namesake brand, Kevyn Aucoin with the brand or makeup artist. book, which consists of three chapters: through Sephora. Kevyn Aucoin Beauty Beauty is going under a re-brand to high- “[Kevyn] was really known for creating Contour & Sculpt, Blush & Define and launched on the retailer’s e-commerce light Aucoin’s legacy with a more modern, transformations,” Solomon continued Emphaseyes. The new book echoes the site last year and will enter into more digitally savvy approach. on why the educational materials are original book by offering illustrated instruc- bricks-and-mortar locations in key mar- “We looked at this opportunity to important for the brand. “We’re sitting tions and three makeup palettes to create kets around the country, like Los Angeles, understand who was following the brand on archives and libraries of educational the look. The Making Faces Beauty Book is New York and San Francisco, through and we discovered this world of consum- content, so this gives us the opportunity available now and retails for $75. the end of the year. The brand can also ers, influencers and [makeup] artists that to bring everything to life.” Separately from the brand, director Tif- be found at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman were passionate about Kevyn Aucoin,” As part of the brand’s new digital focus, fany Bartok has created a documentary that Marcus, Space NK, Joyce Beauty in Hong said Hillary Solomon, chief executive Kevyn Aucoin is launching “Team Kevyn,” honors Kevyn Aucoin. The film, which is Kong and Mecca in Australia. officer of Kevyn Aucoin Beauty, which was an online community that brings together called “Larger Than Life,” contains archival A new logo will also roll out in early ao acquired by Manzanita Capital in 2015. beauty enthusiasts and makeup artists interviews with the makeup artist and inter- 2018. The brand will expand its best-sell- “With that we took a look at the brand, to share their inspiration, advice and views with celebrities that worked closely ing franchises, like its Neo-Limelight pal- the inspiration and Kevyn’s legacy and passion for beauty. This will also further with him. The filmmaker and the brand are ettes and Etherealist makeup line, which discovered it was time to take the brand the rebrand’s focus on attracting younger teaming up to call attention to the release of will launch this fall. and make it relevant for today.” consumers, especially ones that use social the documentary, which is slated to come Executives declined to provide sales The brand will be going full force on media to discover new brands and prod- out this fall. forecasts, but industry sources estimate the its various social media platforms and its ucts. The initiative will live on the brand’s “Kevyn Aucoin’s other-worldly talent brand could surpass $50 million in retail

Lyons photograph by M ei T by photograph Lyons relaunched e-commerce site, specifically e-commerce site and across social media was always why I was inspired to become sales after the re-brand is established. THE

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Philippe fashion As the retail industry has suffered, so Schaus has trade show foot traffic, but Ben-Avra- ham believes the format will always be Cabana Swim Show necessary from a logistical point of view. “I don’t think trade shows will ever be irrelevant,” said Ben-Avraham. “As a buyer if I want to see everything I need to see, Comes to New York I have to visit a trade show. And I would never select my next season’s buy online. ● The swimwear and resort Rendering of It doesn’t make sense. People are going Cabana to visit [fewer] trade shows, but they will trade show, which started in trade show in never disappear.” New York. Miami four years ago, is taking Ben-Avraham, who said he’s working business on the NYC market. with his team on revolutionizing the experience, doesn’t believe downsizing is By Aria Hughes the answer — he contends that if a show is Schaus merchandised appropriately, buyers will Sam Ben-Avraham has mastered the be happy — but he does think the trade pivot. show floor, specifically brand placement, Leaves The Liberty Fairs trade show co-owner, has to reflect what’s going on in retail. who founded Project in 2003 before “Some brands have been sitting in the DFS Group selling it to Advanstar Communications in same position on the floor for the past 2005, is bringing Cabana, the swim and Cabana will take place from Sept. 16 to 10 years,” said Ben-Avraham. “There’s a resort trade show he launched in Miami, to 18 at Pier 92 in New York. It will run along- disconnect between what’s happening For Moët New York. side the Capsule women’s trade show, in fashion in general and what the trade “I’ve had, like, seven lives in retail,” which will be located in Pier 94. Ben-Avra- shows look like. Because we are coming Hennessy said Ben-Avraham, who is also known for ham said the venue will be transformed from a retail background, I’m very much operating Atrium stores, which have now into a luxe, boutique environment with in touch with what the consumer is buying ● He succeeds Christophe transitioned into Kith shops. “When I had plush pink carpeting accented by gold and how that can translate to the floor.” a store in Miami, my number-one category fixtures. While the Miami show, which Although he’s received offers, Ben-Avra- Navarre, who is leaving was swim. A lot of new brands came into features around 250 brands, is comprised ham said he has no immediate plans to sell LVMH’s wines and spirits that whole swim category around 2013 of mostly swim and resort assortments, Liberty or Cabana. division after 20 years to and we were looking for an elevated trade the New York edition, which will include “I think we are still in the process of show experience.” around 110 brands, will showcase more growing and exploring. For me this is actu- focus on his investment fund According to Ben-Avraham, who started contemporary ready-to-wear with a ally the most fun moment of fashion. The Neptune International. the Cabana show with Janet Wong in 2013 selection of fashion-forward swimwear, landscape is changing and people are kind during Miami Swim Week, holding a wom- resortwear, active and accessories. Brands of lost,” said Ben-Avraham. “We created a By Joelle Diderich en’s-focused trade show in New York has will include Steven Alan Optical, Baja East, brand that has a soul to it and I want the always been of interest, but he had a hard Thaddeus O’Neil and Dion Lee. The show legacy of Liberty and Cabana to be around PARIS — Philippe Schaus is leaving DFS time finding a consistent space — until now. will also include informational panels. for a very long time.” Group to become chief executive officer of Moët Hennessy, the wines and spirits division of parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. He succeeds Christophe Navarre, who men’s is leaving Hennessy after 20 years to focus on Neptune International, the investment fund he founded, LVMH said in a state- Eton Revamps Madison Ave. Boutique ment on Tuesday. As chairman and ceo of the Hong Kong- ● The redesign is based travel retailer DFS Group, Schaus patterned after the has overseen high-profile projects includ- ing the opening of its first European store company’s flagship in its in Venice last year and the ambitious ren- home country of Sweden. ovation of the La Samaritaine department By Jean E. Palmieri store in Paris, set to reopen in 2019. Bernard Arnault, chairman and ceo of LVMH, said he was “delighted” with the Eton is bringing a little taste of Stockholm appointment. to Madison Avenue. “Philippe has been with the LVMH The upscale Swedish brand known for Group for 14 years, initially contributing its luxury men’s shirts and furnishings, to the global success of Louis Vuitton as has revamped its boutique at 625 Madison The Eton international director, and more recently, Avenue, between 58th and 59th Streets, Madison since 2012, as leader of the evolution of and will celebrate the renovation with Avenue DFS, making it one of the most innovative an event on Thursday during New York boutique. and desirable destinations to buy luxury Fashion Week. products,” he said. Hans Davidson, chief executive officer Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s as well as majority owned by the private equity “I am confident that Philippe will be and grandson of Eton’s founders, said about 225 independent specialty stores. firm, EQT VII, which bought approxi- an excellent leader to help Moët Hen- the store, which opened at the end of “We have a strong collaboration with our mately 90 percent of the business. The nessy achieve even greater success in the 2010, “was updated with our latest retail retail partners and are extremely proud to founding family and management retain future,” Arnault added. concept, originally launched in 2016. This have such a great global premium partner a 10 percent stake. At the time of the The luxury titan thanked Navarre for his was developed and designed to reflect network,” Davidson said. sale, Davidson said transitioning to new contribution to the success of the division, the breath of the Eton brand; from the There are no plans to open additional ownership should serve the brand well whose portfolio of brands includes Moët & Swedish heritage, to craftsmanship and stores in the U.S. market at this point, he because of EQT’s more “international” Chandon, Dom Pérignon, Veuve Clic- high quality.” But at the end of the day, he said. standing, “bigger network and more cap- quot Ponsardin, Krug, Ruinart, Château added, “the store is the stage for our lead “Our stores are a reflection of everything ital. We felt it was a perfect match.” d’Yquem, Hennessy, Glenmorangie and character, the shirt.” Eton stands for and our latest store design Despite the tough retail climate in the Belvedere. Designed by the British interior is already in some of our premium partner U.S. and elsewhere, Davidson said Eton has “In less than a quarter of a century, his design company, Brinkworth, the stores to ensure a coherent brand experi- managed to experience growth over the leadership has enabled Moët Hennessy 450-square-foot unit is patterned after ence,” he said. past several years and the U.S. market is to strengthen its position as one of the the company’s flagship in Stockholm. The New York store carries a blend of one of the company’s largest markets. most iconic and profitable groups in its The New York outpost is one of eight dress and sport shirts as well as the Green “Our wholesale business continues to sector. The creativity displayed within the that Eton operates worldwide. The collection, a sportier line made from raw, be strong and the partnerships with group’s brands has seen them evolve into a others are located in London — one untreated fabrics. It also offers a wide department stores and retail partners benchmark for excellence in the wines and on South Molton Street and the other assortment of ties, pocket squares and has been very important to our suc- spirits universe. I wish him every best wish in Kingsway — three in Sweden, in accessories. Shirt prices range from $235 to cess,” he said. “We have been able to for success in the future,” he said. Stockholm, Malmö and Lund, one at $295 and are offered in a variety of fits. achieve double-digit growth and are Moët Hennessy has more than 8,000 the Copenhagen airport and the most Carina Ertl, Eton’s chief marketing continuing to do so. Our main focus will employees in France and internationally recent, in Frankfurt, Germany. There is officer, said the company will promote the always be on the shirt.” within its production and distribution also a unit in Los Angeles that is oper- store through outdoor ads in Grand Central As a private company, Davidson subsidiaries. In 2016, it achieved sales of ated with a franchise partner. Terminal and in subway terminals, as well declined to provide an overall volume fig- 4.8 billion euros and operating profit of 1.5 In addition to its own stores, Eton is car- as digitally on its web site. ure, but said Eton sold more than million

ton photograph by Joshua S cott Joshua by photograph E ton billion euros. ried at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Since the end of 2016, Eton has been shirts last year. 12 september 6, 2017

Models Kering, LVMH backstage. Link for Models continued from page 1 industry bodies — such as the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in France and the Camera Nazionale della Moda in Italy — will rapidly follow suit. The charter, which will be implemented by both groups’ brands worldwide, also requires models to present a recent medi- cal certificate proving their overall health, and bans the hiring of models below the age of 16 in shows or shoots representing an adult, among other measures. François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, said the group had been working on the topic since 2015, but was moved to act quickly after casting director James Scully blew the whistle on several brands, including Balenciaga, Hermès and Elie Saab, for allegedly abusing models. “That’s where I decided in March, ‘Enough is enough. We are going to put in place some rules and I want those rules to be implemented for the next fashion week,’” Pinault told WWD. Antoine Arnault, ceo of Berluti and chairman of Loro Piana, was among the first public figures to comment on Scully’s Instagram post, alongside the likes of Joan Smalls, Helena Christensen, Carolyn Mur- phy and Hilary Rhoda. “If you hear of any- thing like this happening at our houses, please contact me directly,” he wrote. Pinault has long stated his commitment to promote a socially, ethically, econom- ically and environmentally sustainable business. He is chairman of the Kering Foundation, which was launched in 2009 to combat violence against women. has been in the spotlight in France since “We could not accept the status quo. If the government adopted a law in Decem- “We have a responsibility to lead the way, someone had to act, it was us. We decided ber 2015 intended to ban excessively thin to forge ahead because of our commit- models. preempt any problems and set the example ment, in the belief that we have to set the “We had the idea of drafting this joint across the board.” example in this domain, take the lead and charter and I must say I’m very proud of apply the relevant rules to ourselves,” it, because some things are bigger than — Antoine Arnault, LVMH Pinault said. competition concerns,” Arnault said. He rapidly realized that in order to have “It’s not a question of communication an impact, the charter would have to be and who does what first,” echoed Pinault. no issue. They totally understand.” opinion, it will take at least two seasons adopted by other companies. “It’s a question of professional ethics and Casting agencies are required to for the rules to be applied 100 percent,” “I decided to call the LVMH Group, a vision of the profession that we shared present models who are size 34 or above he added. which is the sector leader, to see if they immediately, so I am very confident this for women and size 44 and above for Meanwhile, Kering brands will pro- were interested in joining forces with us will work and I think a lot of brands will men. Brands also have to put a dedicated vide models with a hotline for reporting and I realized they had also been working join us.” psychologist or therapist at their disposal problems. Models will also be asked to on the topic for a while, so it was very Pinault has also spoken with Scully, during their working time. provide feedback to a shared monitoring easy and the collaboration between the who is casting director for Stella McCart- Models’ medical certificates must be committee. LVMH teams and ours was very produc- ney, another label in the Kering stable, in less than six months old — compared “Things won’t be perfect straight away, tive and efficient,” he said. addition to other casting directors, brand with the official French requirement for so we will continue to work on improv- Arnault, who is the son of LVMH chair- representatives, models and Synam, a certificate issued in the last two years. ing the implementation of these mea- man and ceo Bernard Arnault and a direc- France’s union of model agencies. “Everyone knows that two years is far sures and if some measures have to be tor at LVMH, told WWD his reaction to the “Each had a different vision of things too long,” said Arnault. “We respect and improved, they will be,” Pinault said. casting scandals was instinctive. “It wasn’t and it was interesting for everyone to follow the law, but we will try to do even In its current form, the charter the corporate executive reacting, it was reconcile the different points of view more and even better.” addresses issues including working hours really the man, the netizen. I was in my to realize there were sometimes misun- “A lot of people know — as I do — peo- for models aged 16 to 18, who have to be car heading home after a tiring day and I derstandings and it was time to correct ple affected by the scourge of anorexia,” accompanied by a chaperone or guardian didn’t think twice,” said Arnault, whose them,” he said. added Pinault. “This represents an at all times, and the creation of a ded- partner is model Natalia Vodianova. He has also met directly with the important advance in tackling the issue icated private space for models to get He met with Scully a few days later. “I group’s designers, which include Alessan- of excessive thinness and in particular changed during shoots or fashion shows. wasn’t really surprised to learn this kind dro Michele at Gucci, Anthony Vaccarello anorexia in our profession.” It does not tackle racial diversity, of thing happens almost everywhere,” he at Saint Laurent and Demna Gvasalia at Both men said the new rules apply despite accusations against several Par- said. Balenciaga, to discuss the ban on the immediately and no exceptions will be is-based brands, including Balenciaga, “And if it’s happening everywhere, it’s French size 32 for women — equivalent tolerated. “I can tell you I’ll be checking,” that they favor predominantly white casts. bound to be happening in our group. We to a U.S. size zero — and size 42 for men promised Pinault, saying that the addi- Balenciaga’s fall display featured several realized this was no longer admissible from their casting requirements. tional costs associated with the charter models of color, including Alek Wek. and, as sector leader, we have a respon- “The teams always think the designer were not an issue. Given the role of social media in accel- sibility to lead the way, preempt any thinks a certain way,” Pinault said. “These Each LVMH brand will designate a point erating change, it could be just a matter of problems and set the example across the are such important topics that if you don’t person for models to contact with any time before the charter is extended. board,” he added. ask them directly one to one, you only get complaints about working conditions. “I was talking to my wife about it the He immediately agreed to collaborate indirect responses. When you talk to them They will in turn report to Hélène Freyss, other day and she said all these problems with Kering on the sensitive topic, which and you have a calm discussion, there is group communication director at LVMH. already existed 15 years ago, except that “We will be very vigilant so that every models didn’t have social networks to incident, especially the first season, is talk about them and try to effect change,” reported and handled so that it is not Arnault said, referring to Vodianova. “This represents an important advance in repeated the next,” Arnault pledged. “She was lucky. She had good people “We will be extremely strict with around her and she was mentally strong, tackling the issue of excessive thinness and in those who don’t implement this char- but we can really thank social networks ter, whether it’s our houses directly or for lifting the lid on a lot of things we particular anorexia in our profession.” the casting or model agencies we work would not have tolerated in the past if

— François-Henri Pinault, Kering with. But you have to be realistic. In my they had been public knowledge.” Chelsea Lauren by P hotograph september 6, 2017 13

Pantone Lists Season’s Top Colors continued from page 1

Whatever the impetus, colorists are game. “At Pantone Color Institute, we just love the idea that more consumers are more color aware. They’re really going to accept the idea there is more to choose from than less,” Eiseman said. “Designers are often the envelope pushers for sure.”

Meadowlark 13-0646 Cherry Tomato 17-1563 Little Boy Blue 4132 Chili Oil 18-1440 Blooming Dahlia 15-1520 Pink Lavender 14-3207 Considering that half of the U.S. pop- This “very strong, heated, dynamic First Lady Melania Trump may have More commonly known as the Another fragrantly named color, Like Blooming Dahlia, this violet ulation was expected to watch last color definitely has an orange singlehandedly given this hue world- crushed red pepper condiment Blooming Dahlia is of the very light, rose hue is quieting. Venus Williams month’s solar eclipse, yellow’s dom- undertone,” Eiseman said. Interest- wide coverage thanks to the Ralph used in Sichuan cuisine, this fiery soft sort and an answer to the warmed up in Wimbledon leggings. inance in the spring forecast seems ingly, yellow and red are next-door Lauren ensemble she wore to her shade does not exactly scream “ver- orange family. Depleted of the vi- And Rodarte’s Kate and Laura logical. And the skyward wonder neighbors on the color wheel that husband’s inauguration in January, nal equinox.” Even Pantone colorists brancy of orange in Cherry Tomato, Mulleavy had their own interpreta- will remain a conversation starter, essentially say the same thing — but the clear blue sky-inspired tone were surprised that it landed so high Blooming Dahlia is taken down to a tions of it on the runway in Paris in according to Eiseman. “When these they draw attention in. “They’re more will be prevalent for spring 2018, too. on the spring list. lighter intensity that is very appeal- July. Monique Lhuillier included a things creep into a designer’s mind, than warm, they’re hot.” Recent coverage and documen- This earthy, brown-based red ing, Eiseman said. Pink Lavender strapless, feathery they kind of store them away like taries about Princess Diana, who is a great mixing color, transitional gown in her first outing in the French little nuggets until they are working favored blue, has brought the color and “that touch of seasoning that capital. on the next line. There’s no question back to the forefront of the fashion. you sprinkle into a spring wardrobe,” using that bright color really is an at- The “expansive” shade hints at “the Eiseman said. As a keynote speaker tention getter,” Eiseman said, adding, promise of a new day” and relays a at the biannual International Home + “Regardless of what industry, yellow “lovely, cooling feeling,” Eiseman said. Housewares, Eiseman said “what’s is a beacon of light. If you’re going to The Mother Goose nursery rhyme happening in the food and beverage put something on your web site or in name is meant to be a play on its area often tells us where we’re going a window display, you know yellow is genderless and trans-seasonal with color.” On trend, Anna Sui used going to draw the eye. And nobody qualities. Boys, girls, women, men — Chili Oil and Cherry Tomato for her gets ignored wearing yellow.” Little Boy Blue works for everyone. Anna Sui x Inc. launch invitations.

Arcadia 16-5533 Ultra Violet 18-2828 Emperador 18-1028 Almost Mauve 12- 2103 Spring Crocus 17-3020 Lime Punch 13-0550 Greens have been all over the map Pantone is banking on this Emperador is a rich chocolatey Versace and Zuhair Murad worked This expressive fuchsia is meant Puma, Mizuno, Salomon and Co- in the last few years, but Green- “wonderfully imaginative” purple brown. But this of-the-earth this petal-like shade into their to be a trans-seasonal, conversa- lumbia Sportswear are a few of the ery’s vibrant, organic cast made it that underscores originality and hue is probably more “Game of respective couture collections. tional favorite. Men and women are athletic brands that have known the Pantone’s 2017 Color of the Year. ingenuity that melds well with the Thrones”-inspired. “You can’t help As the faintest of this season’s warming up to this one although might of this neon. Ath-leisure labels With half the world’s population entire field for spring. This complex but be influenced by the show pastels, it sort of riffs on the other maybe more as an accent. Just as followed suit, using bright punches of living in cities today and 70 percent shade may leave some wonder- and now the whole series is being two. Gentle, ephemeral and floaty, Pantone hasn’t shied away from the color, not simply for fashion rea- expected to be doing so by 2050, ing, “Is it more blue or more red?” reshown on HBO so that influence Almost Mauve is ready-made for culinary undertones, the spring sons, but safety ones. “When Lime the public’s interest in the great (Blue-based is the answer.) But will go forward. It’s a darker tone fabrics of the same ilk. With nos- palette also encompasses the Punch first came on the scene it outdoors will no doubt gain ground. Ultra Violet is more modern and but not as sinister as black might talgia in vogue, this romantic quiet botanical — Pink Lavendar, Blooming was a hard sell. A lot of people might “We are thinking of the preser- less prom dress when paired with be. That earthy quality brings color is reminiscent of another Dahlia and Arcadia among them. have worn it for accents, but now the vation of what’s natural. That’s Chili Oil. substance, which is very unusual time and another place — post-War But Spring Crocus is a wittier, more consumer acceptance factor is way always our consciousness naming for spring and summer.” even, Eiseman said. vital color that has an energy and higher than it has ever been for this colors,” Eiseman said. “This color sexiness from Eiseman’s point of shade,” Eiseman said. Rochambeau does well in very simple designs. It view. This pinkish purple is flattering designers Laurence Chandler and has two sides of personality.” to an array of complexions. Eiseman Joshua Cooper seem to be on to the added, “You will probably get a lot of trend, dousing their Sept. 10 show compliments when you wear this.” invitations in Lime Punch.

Not wanting to diffuse the aforementioned colors, Pantone created a Spring 2018 Classic Color Palette. While it is not unusual to see navy, gray, Spring 2018 Classic Color Palette sand and white in a spring palette, this grouping presents a separate unit of neutrals that are really core basics, Eiseman said.

Sailor Blue 19-4034 Harbor Mist 14-4202 Warm Sand 15-1214 Coconut Milk 11-0608 This navy-rooted hue is This midtone dove gray Lazy seaside weekends are Coconut Milk is kind of a very comforting and one is already important another year away for most mainstay of white and off- that helps to solidify the in interiors and from a workers, but this tawny white. Although Eiseman spring palette, she said. fashion perspective it colors can be a reminder allowed that white’s “We’re calling this group solidifies wardrobes. If if nothing else. Like gray, popularity last year may of 12 genderless, because you’re Gigi Hadid, you try sandy neutrals are some- have been politically we see these colors com- it as a summer lipstick. thing that shoppers have charged, going forward it ing to the fore of women’s This foggy gray pro- invested in again and again. will be more about “that and men’s,” Eiseman said. vides an alternative to The do-no-wrong basic can really clean feeling” that year-round basic black, also be used to offset any also goes along with Eiseman said. “In spring of the spring palette’s more diaphanous floaty fabrics. and summer, black can unexpected shades. Kanye “What’s more diaphanous get a little heavy. There’s West and The Row’s Ashley than white?” she said. not anything you can’t do and Mary-Kate Olsen are with a light neutral gray,” among the designers who she said. have counted on this color again and again. 14 september 6, 2017

PRABAL GURUNG “Ama — Pearl Diving Mermaids of Japan.”

The Collections YEOHLEE New York “Perspective…”

TRACY REESE “Exploring feminine strength and vulnerability.”

Designer Inspirations From boardwalks to serenity to exotic locales, designers reveal their creative muses for spring. By ANDREW SHANG

Josie Natori “Bonheur des Fleurs.”

monse “Reconstructed Americana.”

Tanya Taylor “Keukenhof Garden.” september 6, 2017 15

MANSUR GAVRIEL “With the introduction of our first rtw collection, we focused on principles that guide us as a brand: beautiful form, color and material. We are influenced by a nostalgia for the past, yet also clean and modern lines. We are inspired by natural textures and emotion: flowers, plants, a woman’s beautiful, natural hair, the sun and the sea. We are also inspired by modernity: minimalism, architecture, fine art.” ulla johnson A story of purity told through starched volumes.

SANDY LIANG “Tim Tam with a PB&J in a bed of flowers.”

LELA ROSE “To be held on Sept. 11 at the iconic Washington Square Park, the spring 2018 show will be a celebration of New York City and all of the beauty and inspiration that it offers.”

DEREK LAM “Wanderlust.” haw, 1957 S am haw, by photograph ose R 16 september 6, 2017

DENNIS BASSO “My inspiration for this collection is the international woman…traveling the world to exotic locales.”

The Collections New York

Carmen Marc Valvo “Being caressed by balmy breezes while walking barefoot on the beach.”

Colovos “Multiform.”

ANNA SUI “I was inspired by the Counter-Couture exhibition at MAD in New York City; The Summer of Love Experience at the de Young in San Francisco; Pink Floyd and You Say You Want a Revolution (both at the V&A), and the wonderful Alma-Tadema show at the Leighton House in London.”

KIMORA LEE SIMMONS “Vibrant Morocco.” asso photograph by www.fcgundlach.com by B asso photograph september 6, 2017 17

Alice + Olivia “Chelsea Hotel.”

Zero + Maria Cornejo “Back to the future early days.”

3.1 PHILLIP LIM “Elastic.”

LIBERTINE “Through resistance we will persevere, as truth is beauty NAnette Lepore and beauty is truth…” — Johnson Hartig “Escapism…1930s Hollywood glamour.” aria Cornejo photograph by M ark B orthwick by + M aria Cornejo photograph Zero 18 september 6, 2017

DELPOZO “Surreal serenity.”

The Collections TOME “The spring 2018 collection is inspired by New York New York-based choreographer Pam Tanowitz.”

Maryam Nassir Zadeh “A sense of disconnection from customary relations.” THEORY “Urban Ease.” — Lisa Kulson

BY.Bonnie Young “Boardwalks.”

LRS “Collage.” september 6, 2017 19

MICHAEL KORS “Elements.”

Marchesa “Pearl.”

Veronica Beard “Spring 2018 is inspired by the Mexican Riviera dream girl.”

ZIMMERMANN “For spring 2018, I was inspired by images from the Sixties and Seventies of the sunny, beachside strip called the Gold Coast in Australia. Beachside suburbs like Surfers Paradise were developed into glamorous holiday spots — and the must-visit honeymoon destination of the time. I was really attracted to the simple, sunny feeling in the photos — the somewhat kitschy hotels and apartments contrasted with the surf, the beautiful white sandy beaches and a radiant, golden light. This clear light is something very Australian for me and something I’m always drawn to. The blues are bluer and the color just goes pop.” 20 september 6, 2017

On the set of the photo shoot with Kate Upton for Zac Posen’s look book.

presenting our collection to the customer and to control a message we want to tell and then tell a story,” he says. Zac’s To that point, when staging a show, tail sometimes wags dog. On the creative end, designers designing for a show do just that — design for the show — often around a tightly conceived and realized con- Spring cept. Yet so specific a message can prove problematic in the event-dressing sphere in which individuality is a holy grail. The woman dressing up wants to stand out. Awakening “Today when you’re building a collec- tion, you have to have real range,” Posen By shooting glamorous clothes on a glamorous beauty, Sunday in August — not a typical fashion says. “It’s really about making different Zac Posen is bucking Collections tradition. Fashion. work day. But then, given the industry’s items that are special for different cus- currentA reality, “typical” is a word with tomers. When you put a runway show You’ve got to love it. little resonance, particularly at Collec- together, there are these kind of rules By bridget foley photographs by don stahl tions time. that have entered our current industry On this particular Sunday morning, Zac about a kind of repetition, staying with Posen’s studio on East 54th Street in Man- one silhouette, concept and idea. But it’s hattan bustles with pre-shoot activity. For not really how the retail world or con- the second consecutive season, Posen has sumers shop today. If they’re going to buy eschewed the runway in favor of one-on- something designer, it really has to be one showroom appointments, this time something unique and special. How do bolstered by a look book shoot featuring you create a kind of feeling of cohesion of two very different bombshell types — a collection without being one-note?” Barbara Faiho, reporting for duty the next For spring, Posen found that sense day, and Kate Upton, who radiates charm of cohesion in gardens — Beverly Hills from her makeup chair as she’s fussed gardens, to be exact. He indicates a Fif- over by star hairdresser Jimmy Paul. Is ties-era picture of the famed Greenacres she willing to be photographed in curlers? estate — it blooms precisely arranged — on A huge smile telegraphs the affirmative. his image board, along with a Seventies Just as several of New York’s premiere Avedon photo of Susan Forrestal looking names — Thom Browne, Joseph Altuzarra, oh-so-pretty-sexy in posey pink. As con- the Proenza Schouler and Rodarte duets versation wanders, Posen muses that Ins- — have decamped to Paris (where Posen tagram filters may also, if subconsciously, showed years ago), staging a formal show have informed the plentiful pinks in the is a strategic decision for some designers, lineup, an explosion of lavish, lovely Posen among them. These days, he is flower-bedecked glamour. At a time when more focused on speaking directly and many luxury-level designers and brands clearly to his customers than wow-ing the are grappling with how to go head-to- insider fashion set. The look book and head in competition with the au courant related video content manifest his desire streetwear set, Posen has identified and “to experiment and try a new way of embraced a niche at its polar opposite. ► september 6, 2017 21

Upton dons a two-piece suit ensemble and a robe (right) for look book photos.

He views his work as an evolution of a in a surprising white cotton jacquard. specific genre of fashion, which, he says, Some looks are highly and obviously con- “continues a kind of American tradition of structed; others take a languid approach social dressing from a great lineage, from to dressing up. As for the embellishment, Oscar [de la Renta] and [Carolina] Her- the flower bower comes alive in 3-D rera and [James] Galanos and [Pauline] embroideries. Trigère...that is what we’ve been able to While event-dressing remains his focus, build into the market and expand on.” Posen is expanding stealthily into what His spring clothes are indeed diverse in he calls “high day,” a loose handle incor- fabric, silhouette and embellishment, yet porating cocktail, a divine soigne evening unified by textural intensity and an ebul- suit in almost-black dark green (spring’s The designer’s lient current that builds from sly spark to “grounding” color), and a healthy infusion spring looks full-on theatrical explosion. Full-skirted of honest-to-goodness day clothes. These show diversity in bustier dresses recall proper Fifties glam include lovely gently cut shirtdresses with fabric choices, and arresting ballgowns, 18th-century exaggerated collars and sprays of embroi- silhouettes and grandeur. In between, sophistication dered flowers. “I’m not competing with embellishments. drips from a tres haute sack-back column H&M and Zara,” Posen says, while still ► 22 september 6, 2017

noting the difficulty of building a strong daywear business in this age of “enor- mous-volume fast fashion.” Not that plain-and-simple was ever his thing; from the beginning, Posen champi- oned showstopping glam. It’s where he started when he burst into mainstream awareness 16 years ago, an American wunderkind out of London’s famed Cen- tral Saint Martins. His head was turned by the lure of a fashion life, one he imagined all as relentlessly glamorous as the kind of clothes he loved. His impression was that “a lot of people in this industry were living in fashion to facilitate a lifestyle. And that was, at that moment, something that I wanted to enter into,” he acknowl- edges of his younger, naive self. But after his glorious arrival, there were dues to pay and lessons to learn — a journey chronicled in the much-anticipated documentary “House of Z,” for which Vogue and Brooks Brothers will cohost a Upton doesn’t shy screening on Thursday evening, before away from being the Calvin Klein show. photographed with “There was an important make-or- her hair in rollers, break transitional moment when I real- as Jimmy Paul ized in my life personally, and in business, does his work. that my work was my life and this process Ballgowns recall of [building] a company was what I was 18th-century about,” Posen says. “That was a real refo- grandeur. “There was an cus — as we’re here on a Sunday.” Returning to the day’s endeavor, the important make-or- shoot, Posen notes as well a larger-scale transition, this one unfolding indus- break transitional try-wide, which allows for alternatives to the runway. “I love a great extravaganza moment when I of a runway show; I’m a person who likes realized in my life theatrics,” he says. “But there is some- thing very refreshing about building a col- personally, and in lection that has a range for a store to buy, for your customer to shop. It’s a great business, that my moment to try different ways to present your work to your customer.” work was my life Posen calls Upton “a great American beauty” with whom he’s wanted to work and this process for years. Desire became reality earlier of [building] a this summer, after she appeared as a guest judge on “Project Runway,” on company was what I which Posen stars. “She was so poised, so K.U.: I think that everybody beautiful, so elegant, yummy, and really Q&A With has this, no matter what was about. That was represented this American glamour and a your job is, you have bad kind of optimism that I wanted to present Kate Upton days, you have people a real refocus.” you don’t get along with. to the collection,” he says. “Barbara has At Zac Posen’s spring 2018 look book shoot, Zac Posen a more exotic look that kind of balances The thing about modeling the model chats about the joys of dressing up, is every single day you’re that out. And they happen to be very modeling and an aperol spritz. working with a completely good friends. They’re both great beauties, new team so every single they’re both voluptuous. It’s exciting.” ¬ At Zac Posen’s spring WWD: Describe your style. day is your first day of 2018 shoot, Kate Upton K.U.: Depending on the The excitement won’t end with the work or your first day twist: its 65-exit show will combine looks opens up about the un- occasion, I could go shoot and today’s release of the resulting of school. And you can’t from fall, currently in store; resort, soon glamorous aspects of mod- anywhere, but I always like pictures. Thursday’s “House of Z” screen- really have an off day to be in store, and spring, which will be eling and going from “zero to have a bit of a feminine ing will be followed by one in Los Angeles because that will be the available for order there. “It’s so smart of to 100” when dressing up. touch to everything I do. on the 19th. Posen will attend the Emmys only experience they have Ken Downing,” Posen observes. “Having on Sept. 17 (“Project Runway” earned five with you. that kind of retail partnership today is nominations), two days after the Crystal WWD: What attracted you WWD: Do you like getting essential.” In addition, he’s been readying to this project with Zac? dressed up? Ball charity event at Neiman Marcus in WWD: So maybe you his Zac Zac Posen and Brooks Brothers Kate Upton: I was really K.U.: I love! What girl Dallas, one with a newfangled fashion have to be a little bit of a collections, also opening this week. excited about doing this doesn’t like getting psychologist. You always That’s just the first three weeks of project with Zac because dressed up? It’s so fun. have to read the room, I think he is always known September. Posen continues to perfect and you’re always read- for being innovative and WWD: When are you most an expansive wardrobe for Delta Airlines ing a new room, right? thinking forward in the likely to get dressed up? employees, making its debut in May. “When you put K.U.: Exactly. You have industry. And that’s what K.U.: I will say that I am He designed the in-flight uniforms and to definitely be able to fit this is all about, especially kind of zero to 100. Like, if advised on changes for “below the wing” a runway show inside the room. But I think with social media and the I’m going out, I’m getting staff, a project that required shadowing at that everyone is doing that Internet and how things dressed up, or I’m in sweat several positions. If that weren’t enough, together, there and so there’s also a bit of are changing, this is the pants, watching TV. his book, “Cooking With Zac: Recipes for a relaxed feel. are these kind of best way to really show- Rustic to Refined,” is due out in October case his clothes and show WWD: What do you love from Rodale. The lavishly illustrated WWD: How do you define rules…about a the world that it lives in. about modeling? glamour? affair features more than 100 recipes, K.U.: I think something K.U.: I think that glamour is as well as Posen’s musings on his rela- kind of repetition, WWD: What do you love that’s so amazing, and why about confidence. I think tionship with food. Its structure follows about Zac’s clothes? I really wanted to get into however somebody feels the ready-to-wear seasons. “That’s our staying with one K.U.: Zac has an amazing modeling, was to be able beautiful, that’s glamour. fashion tie-in,” he says. way of being able to do all to travel, to be able to see As Posen sees it, it all ties in, and silhouette, concept of these different silhou- the world and live in this WWD: What’s the most ultimately nurtures his milieu’s primary ettes and designs while still glamorous world and meet fun thing you’ve done this purpose. “The role of fashion is to make and idea. But it’s showing the woman’s body all these different people. summer? people dream,” he says. “You want to through his structure.…Ev- not really how the K.U.: I actually went to Italy intrigue and seduce people to want to erything really accentuates WWD: You live in a glam- and the Amalfi — the food, what a woman wants to orous world but it’s also enter into your world and to be elevated. retail world or the aperol spritz. Who can show and is very flattering hard work. Talk about the Optimism is more important than ever complain? [laughter] — B.F. on her body. unglamorous side. today. It’s essential. In a world with so consumers shop. many uncertainties, it’s important to have Zac Posen that moment of escapism, of the dream.” september 6, 2017 23

fashion Martha Stewart Preps Apparel Line ● She will also be selling beauty 15 TV channels reaching more than 360 million homes, seven web sites and 195 products, garden tools and social pages. gourmet foods on QVC. In addition to apparel, Stewart is work- ing with her favorite vendors developing By Lisa Lockwood pastries and other gourmet foods. “It’s to help the home cook,” she said, noting that Martha Stewart, the doyenne of domes- she’ll sell pie crusts that one can take out ticity, is ready to make her mark on QVC. of the freezer and make a pie. She’s also The TV show host, entrepreneur, author working with “delicious meats, such as Pat and lifestyle expert made her QVC debut LaFrieda, who supplies many of the great Aug. 13 with “Martha Stewart’s Slow restaurants.” She’ll have hors d’oeuvres, a Cooker” cookbook and is now about to roll big bestseller on QVC and will work with out her first collection of apparel, gourmet Stewart’s library of recipes. In the beauty food, beauty and garden tools. arena, Stewart has a special arrangement “We were blown away by the tremen- with Mario Badescu skin care and will dous response to Martha’s cookbook, present what women need in their skin- which sold out in its first airing,” said Doug care regimen throughout the decades. She Howe, executive vice president of mer- has personally used Badescu products chandising for QVC. for 50 years. She plans to eventually add Stewart, who has over the years sold other beauty products as well. cookbooks on QVC, is throwing a media As for why she’s excited about the launch party tonight at Martha Stewart QVC platform, Stewart talked about the Living Omnimedia headquarters to intro- complications that brick-and-mortar stores duce the full range of products she will be are facing with the onslaught on Ama- selling on the shopping channel. “It’s the zon. “You can’t learn about skin care in first time I’m selling a whole line of garden a few minutes when you go to a counter tools since the old Kmart days. I’m so at Bloomingdale’s. Why not learn why excited because gardening is my passion,” you’re enjoying television, and learn about said the 76-year-old Stewart. She’ll also something good? This is like my old TV introduce her first apparel collection on show. It’s just like doing my informational QVC Thursday night, which she described television show. That’s what’s so amazing as “casual basics.” about it,” she said. “There are lots of beautiful tops, She said she looks forward to teaching sweaters and bottoms, which are basically women about new products and discov- jeans. It’s the stuff that I wear. I’ve worked eries. “The Martha Stewart brand reaches hard with our manufacturing partner about 100 million people every month to come up with things that are easy to with the television, with our books, with wear, they look nice, the fabrics are good, the magazine, with everything that we they’re not just jersey pullovers,” Stewart do. It’s a huge audience. They’re going to said. In fact, she wore the denim jacket learn. Just how they learned from me in from her QVC line on Labor Day while the past, they’re going to learn from me horseback riding, which she posted on Martha Stewart now about other things,” said Stewart, Instagram. The September apparel offer- whose company, Martha Stewart Living ing retails from $35 to $65. Omnimedia was sold to Sequential Brands Asked if she had a lot of input into “It’s a thorough but modest introduction Group Inc. in 2015. the collection, Stewart said, “It’s all my In addition, Stewart said, it’s additive to input. I didn’t just put my name on it. It’s into the world of my kind of casual clothes what she already has at Macy’s, which is the first time I’ve ever done clothes so kitchenware and home. “This is additive, I’m excited about it. It’s a thorough but that I like to wear.” it’s not competitive,” Stewart said. modest introduction into the world of my — Martha Stewart Stewart will design at least four apparel kind of casual clothes that I like to wear,” collections for QVC a year. With holiday she said. and beach, it’ll probably be six. Most of the Stewart said she personally changes her might change again for an evening event. accessories and intimate apparel. production is done in Asia. clothes four times a day. In the morning If she has a Facebook Live, she will change Stewart will appear on QVC on Thursday With all these products and introduc- after her shower, she’ll put on workout again. “I need a lot of clothes that are easy at 10 p.m. along with models, to give a first tions, it looks like Stewart will be making clothes, then she’ll change to morning to get in and out of,” she said. For now, look at select items. She’ll the show the a lot of trips to QVC headquarters in West clothes for the office, then if she has a she’s not doing eveningwear but plans entire collection on Sept. 25 at 6 p.m. Chester, Pa. “Oh gosh,” she said. “Maybe lunch date, she’ll change for lunch and to eventually. She’d also like to design Worldwide, QVC engages shoppers via they’ll move the studio to New York.”

business still has input on every page in her role as creative director. Stewart, wearing a beige shawl-collar sweater, is pushing a wheel- Martha Stewart barrow full of gourds in keeping with the autumnal theme. The magazine has added some editorial franchises, such as a section on travel. A Living Gets a Refresh tear-away page with soup recipes is part of a new section called “Everyday Food,” ● The changes, which but evolve and go in a direction that we’ve which was previously its own stand-alone come in time for fall, been working toward, which is pretty digest but has since been incorporated are mainly cosmetic. and feminine and modern,” said editor in into the magazine. In addition to fea- chief Elizabeth Graves. turing more easy, weeknight recipes By Kara Bloomgarden-Smoke Most of the changes are, like a success- for autumnal comfort food, the new ful home renovation, subtle improve- issue includes advice on such seasonal Martha Stewart Living is getting a ments rather than a complete visual mainstays as Halloween celebrations and makeover. transformation. The magazine did things immunity boosts in advance of cold and The lifestyle title, which has been like update the font and made different flu season. Martha under the editorial and operational con- use of white space on the page. “It’s Martha Stewart, so there’s a lot of Stewart trol of Meredith since 2015, worked with “I realize this is all very inside base- pressure to be inspiring and beautiful and Living the design firm Tiny Bank to update its ball,” Graves noted, adding that the web new. There’s so many great magazines look — the first time the title has gotten a site will also be evolving. out there, and we want to be the type of that alone,” Graves said. “It will continue redesign since 2013. The October cover features Martha brand that breaks through the noise and to evolve, as magazines always do. But I

/ RE X/ S hutterstock H ilty/ BFA Zach by photograph S tewart “We wanted to stay true to ourselves Stewart herself, who, according to Graves, gives readers experience. No small task in think it’s a nice fresh start for us.” 24 september 6, 2017

In Focus: Markets

Textiles textiles When a Seam Is Missed, Darn It Steps In Südwolle ● Darn It Inc. is a third-party Looks to apparel refurbishment company based in Wool for New Bedford, Mass.

By Arthur Zaczkiewicz Technology Denine Woodrow of DP At the height of textile and apparel manufacturing in the U.S., New Bedford, Woodrow & Co. presented a Mass., was home to one of the largest con- lecture on wool technology and centrations of mills in the country. Its cut- the lesser-known properties of and-sew labor force was highly skilled, and the products turned out were considered performance wool. to be of the highest quality. Today, many of the mills still stand — as ¬ Due to the increased demand for relics. There is only a handful of appar- Darn It’s sewing sustainable performance apparel, brands department makes repairs, el-makers left in the city, which includes but the company also offers and retailers are actively seeking new ma- Joseph Abboud Manufacturing. Another logistics solutions. terial technologies that will gratify discrimi- facility, Darn It Inc., was a family run nating consumers. apparel maker that, in 1996, transformed The performance apparel market is its business to meet the needs of retailers, go get some experience.” done by the firm’s sewing department. estimated to be worth $79 billion by 2020, wholesalers and brands that sourced prod- Glassman went off to work at some “Mostly, minor repairs,” Glassman said. “A according to researchers at Marketsand- ucts overseas and required repairs and prominent retailers, including the-then lot of the time customers ask us to inspect Markets. As such, textile firms are exper- repackaging for the U.S. market. May Co. By the early Nineties, Glassman garments because there may have been a imenting with a variety of fibers to create Today, Darn It continues to offer repairs said a confluence of factors was impact- skipped stitch in the side seam and we can utilitarian, technology-driven materials. and repacking as well as relabeling, inspec- ing the market ­— including the onset of replace that as well. We do a lot of hem- At the summer edition of Texworld in tions, returns process and mold reme- “casual Fridays.” As he entered the family ming for customers. We do a lot of label New York, Denine Woodrow of DP Wood- diation. It also has a large dry cleaning business, Glassman said the U.S. apparel change. A lot of folks also come to us with row & Co. represented its client, Südwolle and laundering facility as well as on-site industry was in a steady decline, and then private label product.” Group, to present a lecture on wool tech- pressing. The company has expanded when NAFTA took effect sourcing shifted Glassman said one notable job was when nology and the lesser-known properties of by offering logistics, warehousing and overseas. He gave his dad notice, and 30,000 children’s polo shirts came in and performance wool. Woodrow’s presenta- distribution. High quality and speed are was about to leave when a client who had needed the buttons replaced because there tion, titled “Creating Performance Merino: the hallmarks of the company, said Darn It sourced products from another country was too much lead in them. Three buttons Can It Be Done Sustainably?”sponsored chief executive officer Jeff Glassman. pleaded for help. He had 40,000 pairs of on each added up to 90,000 button changes. by Lenzing Fibers, spotlighted Südwolle “When I graduated from college my dad pants that needed inspection. “We have a plethora of machines, all Group’s Naturtexx product, a sustainable, [Norman Glassman] said there’s really no “There were some open seams, and relatively new. We just upgraded all of our machine-washable and tumble-dry wool way we would talk about me joining the there were some oil stains. And crooked machines last year that can handle any created through a plasma etching treat- business until I have some experience labels. And the pressing was not great,” minor repairs,” Glassman said. “But when ment. The material was first brought to the outside of the manufacturing plant,” Glassman said adding that the client it comes to major repairs, I’m very honest market in 2015 after ten years of research. Glassman told WWD. “He was a clothing needed him “because we had the skill set with the customer and we’ll tell them it Südwolle Group is a family-owned wor- contractor, and he was supplying the and the people to do it.” As a result, Darn might be better if you get these remade sted wool spinner based in Nuremberg, Ger- labor and thread to make garments for It was born, and as retailers and whole- somewhere else.” many. The 50-year-old firm produces 29,000 manufacturers all over the country. Back salers expanded their overseas sourcing, The ceo said the fulfillment side of the tons of yarn each year; its dye capacity is then there were about 120, 130 clothing Glassman got busier and busier. business grew out of customers asking if 13,800 tons annually; and its turnover for contractors here in New Bedford. It was “We solve problems,” Glassman said. Darn It could simply ship the products 2016 reached $420 million euros. a major sewing town and he had around “We are a solutions company. When prod- directly to the retailer after the repairs and Its Naturtexx material is an ecological 450 sewing operators. He started the busi- ucts are made overseas problems arise. refurbishments were done. Again, Glass- alternative to chemical and chlorine-based ness in 1968 and by the 1980s had a very And we can help fix these, and get product man said it was about identifying a need in treatments for wool and is powered by large plant. I was always excited to go into onto the store shelves quickly.” the market and offering a solution. “That’s renewable energy. Naturtexx addresses business with my dad, but he told me to The ceo said the bulk of the work is what we do,” he said. the most common wool stereotype, which is the scratchy sensation that results from the felting process. Naturtexx’s antifelt treatment prevents the all-too-familiar itch, according to Woodrow: “What we’re trying bridal Designs; Lauren Lorraine, and Pollardi to do is treat the wool in a way that does Fashion Group, among many others. not allow for felting to happen,” she said. Justin Warshaw, president of Justin By utilizing plasma in lieu of chemicals Vow Market to Showcase Alexander, said, “We were looking for a to modify the surface of the fiber, the home in the Southeast and Atlanta pres- interaction of electrons and ions in the ents itself as the perfect place for us with plasma interact with wool fibers to alter the Latest Bridal Trends its multiple markets. It is a convenient “friction profile” of the fiber’s surface, which location for our Southeast customers to removes the typical felting effect often ex- ● AmericasMart Atlanta will New permanent locations will be featured come to visit, and a great launch point for perienced with untreated wool. The break- showcase the latest bridal for Carrafina and Geno’s Formal Affair, as developing our business in the region. We through material could eventually replace well as for new additions Carmen Marc believe the Market will continue to grow the current industry standard, Woodrow trends at Vow Market on Valvo Bridal, Primavera, Saboroma and as a national show.” noted. Naturtexx received the Gold Award Sept. 12 through 14. Tuxedo Avenue. Kaye Davis, vice president of fashion in the “Sustainability Innovators” category Top wedding brands such as Badgley business development for AmericasMart, at the OutDoor trade school in 2015. By Tracey Greenstein Mischka Bride, Casablanca Bridal, Wtoo, said, “Vow and World of Bridal has become Wool is one of the fastest growing per- Allure Bridals and Adrianna Papell will the essential Market for the bridal industry. formance fibers in textiles and is noted for AmericasMart Atlanta, a global whole- also show collections at the event. The best lines are meeting with the best its versatility, as wool fibers are renewable, sale marketplace for apparel, home, gift Bridal trends will be showcased via The retailers in the best possible venue. It’s fire retardant, UV protected, biodegradable, and area rug merchandise, will showcase Collective, which features more than 50 where the trends are set, the relationships water-repellent and can manage moisture. its expanded Vow New World of Bridal exhibitors and includes selections from are made, and industry is reenergized for And its fibers allow for all year-round wear, Market on Sept. 12 through 14 in Atlanta. bridal gowns, shoes, accessories, social another year of success.” due to its thermoregulation properties. The Vow Market will feature showrooms occasion apparel, children’s formal attire Vow Market’s bridal retail education “Wool is actually a really nice year-round for brands: Addison Ames; Ashley Lauren; and products and services for bridal series will offer a workshop-style discus- product. Especially now that we’re blending Ava Presley; Beside Couture by Gemy; retailers. Fifty percent of the collection sion called “Do You Speak Bride?” and with a lot of other fibers, wool does contain Cachet; Gemy Maalouf; Jovani; Justin is new to this year’s Vow Market and “Find Your Message: How to Drive Growth and offer a lot of thermoregulation for year- Alexander; Lotus Threads; Mac Duggal; will include looks from Bel Aire Bridal; With Better Sales and Marketing Messag- round comfort,” Woodrow explained.

hutterstock / optimarc S hutterstock by P hotograph Primavera Couture, and Your Party Shoes. De Blossom Collection; Christian Clark ing,” among other keynote presentations. — Tracey Greenstein YOU’RE INVITED

STYLE

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WHEN: September 7th and 8th, 11am—4pm

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 7TH, 11 AM—6 PM 11:30 AM SS 2018 COLLECTION REVIEWS 1:30 PM NYFW SS 2018 TREND PRESENTATION 3:00 PM FASHION CREATORS, MAKERS AND DOERS IN THE SOCIAL MEDIA AGE 5:00 PM BEAUTY X TECHNOLOGY: ON & OFF THE RUNWAY

FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 8TH, 11 AM—4 PM 11:30 AM SS 2018 RUNWAY REVIEWS

1:30 PM THE EVOLUTION OF RETAIL: CREATING THE IDEAL CONSUMER CONNECTION AND EXPERIENCE 3:00 PM THE EVER-CHANGING FACE OF THE MODELING WORLD

WHERE: Samsung 837 in NYC’s Meatpacking District (837 Washington Street, NY)

RSVP HERE 26 september 6, 2017

Fall Into Spring What to Do, to See, to Play at NYFW The NYFW party schedule, plus restaurants, bars, art exhibits and workouts to explore between shows. By Kristen Tauer, Leigh Nordstrom, Alexa Tietjen and Andrew Nodell illustrations By kagan mcleod september 6, 2017 27

Klein is one of the most antici- ¬ Summer holidays are about to be a pated shows of the season, hot distant memory: It’s New York Fashion off his CFDA win. The streetwear set will then head to Manhattan’s Week once again. While this season Classic Car Club, where Kith will might be a day shorter, brands and VIPs mark the one-year anniversary of its fashion week debut with its are making up for it by packing all they newest collection. 11 After Thursday’s shows come can into the week. As everyone stands the…nude photographs? Mert monday by to see which will be the party of the Alas and Marcus Piggott will toast their first-ever retrospective ● A joint show no more: season and just which influencer will be book with a cocktail-turned-after Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim party — end time: 4 a.m. — on the the ubiquitous one of the week, here’s are keeping Monse and Oscar de rooftop of the Public Hotel. The A salt room at la Renta separate this time around. a breakdown of which events to hit and duo’s Taschen tome celebrates The Wellery. The two will show their latest for their 20-year career, during which Oscar on Monday afternoon. what to do between it all. Might they’ve lensed the likes of Madon- Back for his second showing Also on Monday, Carolina na, Jamie Dornan, a rather naked at NYFW, Philipp Plein heads to we suggest sneakers? Herrera will break from tradition Kate Moss and more. Hammerstein Ballroom for his the- and pave a new path. No longer Those looking for a tamer atrical display, which will include in the morning slot, she’ll show at 12 evening option will head to performances by Future and 8 p.m. at the Museum of Modern Williamsburg, where Refinery29 Dita Von Teese. Try to sneak in a tuesday September Art, making hers the museum’s will open the doors to its annu- coveted disco nap at some point. first formal runway show. al 29Rooms. This year’s interactive Virgil Abloh is hosting a cocktail Take a breath. Ideally, a breath installation promises to be bigger, party for Off-White and there’s no ● While many New York design- of dry Himalayan salt air, which better and just as under wraps, sleep till Brooklyn with Alexander ers have decamped to other cities is said to reduce stress and lead drawing a cool and varied crowd Wang’s annual late-night rager out — London, Paris — Ralph Lauren to better sleep. Pop over to Saks of Issa Rae, Jake Gyllenhaal, in — surprise, surprise — Bushwick. has also taken his show on the Fifth Avenue’s wellness pop-up Rachel Bilson, Cardi B, Lizzo, Emma road but is keeping the festivities The Wellery on the second floor, Roberts and Shay Mitchell. close to home. The designer is where Breathe Salt Rooms is shuttling guests up to his personal offering 10-minute sessions. vintage car garage in Bedford in 6 Shayne Oliver will then round Westchester, N.Y., on Tuesday eve- wednesday out the day with his first collection ning, where he will show his latest under Helmut Lang, as Hood by collection followed by a dinner. Air remains on hiatus. Stuck in town? Recharge at ● What, you thought NYFW Madonna Tokyo Record Bar in the West started on Thursday? Oh honey. photographed by Village, located in the underground Wednesday is shaping up to be Mert Alas and space of Ariel Acre’s recently one of the busiest nights — and one Marcus Piggott. 8 opened Aire Champagne Bar. of the most-watched show days — Acre puts her own spin on Japan’s thanks to Tom Ford, who returned friday Shayne tiny record bars, offering two to New York last September and is Oliver nightly “Vinyl Jukebox” seatings, again on the schedule for NYFW, which include an izakaya menu this time at the Park Avenue ● Looking to literally do some and interactive music experience. Armory. His VIP-heavy show will damage in the Garment District? The bar opens up to drop-ins after be matched by a series of parties, Try booking a rage room at The 10 p.m. with a DJ on deck. including a dinner at Bergdorf Wrecking Club. The club will grant Goodman in honor of Gucci Decor, 7 you and a partner one room in a cocktail and dinner in celebration thursday which to break televisions, laptops, of Vivienne Westwood’s upcoming alarm clocks — whatever’s avail- exhibition with Juergen Teller, and able — in a 30-minute timeframe. Elle’s model-heavy bash with IMG. ● Arianne Phillips has no Grab a bat and get to smashing While Ian Schrager’s Public Hotel shortage of famous friends. The — we know there must be some has only been open for a few award-winning costume designer pent-up angst boiling beneath that Laura Kim and months — i.e. it’s still a new party and stylist will be celebrated cool exterior. Fernando destination for the NYFW crowd Thursday with a premiere screen- Jeremy Scott has even more 13 Garcia — another new hotel is freshly ing at Metrograph Cinema of the reason to party this season. The 10 opened and ready for hosting. Mr Porter-produced “Dressing the designer is celebrating the 20th wednesday The Made Hotel, from Craft Part,” a documentary celebrating anniversary of his brand with a sunday Hospitality’s Sam Gelin, bowed her work. The film features contri- Friday night show followed by an ● Gone are the days when over Labor Day weekend in the butions from Tom Ford, Madonna, after party. The theme this year is ● Sweat out the weekend’s Marc Jacobs kept NYFW going NoMad neighborhood and will be Steven Klein, Courtney Love, Disco Damage so plan your party festivities with Amanda Kloots until the bitter end — that would hosting Jonathan Simkhai’s after Alessandro Michele, Jeremy Scott approach accordingly — the week at Bandier’s Studio B. The up- be Thursday evening. This year, party, in addition to being a pit- and others; a scheduled Q&A ses- is only getting started. and-coming fitness personality he cuts the show calendar one stop for between-show drinks for sion was cut to allow those with Uptown, Harper’s Bazaar is Carolina teaches her signature classes day short, returning to the Park editors at its lobby bar, rooftop and a full schedule to jet off to Calvin hosting its annual Icons party-ex- Herrera The Rope and The Dance back-to- Avenue Armory at a prompt 6 p.m. restaurant, all helmed by former Le Klein’s 8 p.m. show. travaganza at The Plaza Hotel. back Sunday morning. The show lets out just in time to Turtle chef by Greg Proechel. Up at the brand’s Midtown Expect to find a starry cluster of A rather business-as-usual day scurry downtown for a screening offices, Raf Simons’ second celebs and models as well as the otherwise, Rihanna makes her of Natasha Lyonne’s directorial women’s collection for Calvin Starboy himself. The Weeknd, who fronts Bazaar’s September issue, return to NYFW after decamping debut, “Cabria, Charity, Chastity,” is set to perform for Paris last season to present which is presented by Kenzo’s her latest Fenty Puma by Rihanna Humberto Leon and Carol Lim — collection. Given the woman at the fifth time the French fashion tephen Lovekin S tephen by H errera Jillian S ollazzo; by Kim and G arcia / RE X/ S hutterstock; BFA randoni/ the helm, there is no telling what house has produced a film. to expect, aside from something With festivities wrapping grand: She, too, is showing at the Stateside a day early this year, Park Avenue Armory. what to do with all that free time? Start packing for the marathon of European collections — we’ll see 9 you in London. saturday atteo P M atteo by O liver B ridges; Justin ellery by ● Before it closes Sunday, head Ralph Lauren will down to Gray MCA’s TriBeCa shuttle guests to his pop-up to catch their exhibition of vintage car garage in fashion illustration, “Drawing on Westchester. Style.” The collection features the work of Bil Donovan, Kenneth Paul Block and Jason Brooks, in a pre- view of the full exhibition launch aboard the Cunard Queen Mary 2 for Transatlantic Fashion Week Crossing in October. The original illustrations appeared in major fashion magazines — including Tom Ford will show WWD — and this exhibition marks at the Park the first time the three artists Avenue Armory. iggott; T he W P iggott; M ertA las and M arcus by M adonna photograph have been shown together. CEO SUMMIT OCTOBER 24–25 NEW YORK CITY CREATE

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Fashion Scoops

“Today Will Be Different,” in which The Verve during the recording, Hitting she portrays a woman deter- promotion and tour of their suc- mined to be her best self over the cessful “Urban Hymns” album. Verona arch of a single day. “The Verve was one of the “Is everyone looking at my legs? Before hitting the TV screens bands that I listened to most Good, we’ve done the right thing,” with this series, she will appear in the Nineties. The band and said Academy Award winner in her third Calzedonia TV spot, Richard Ashcroft are everything Julia Roberts ahead of the first which was unveiled by the com- that I prefer from that period,” Calzedonia Leg Show, a fashion pany’s founder Sandro Veronesi. Giorgetti said. “Being a part of event focusing on the Italian Shot in Los Angeles by Academy Chris Floyd’s project is an honor company’s newest tights collec- Award-winning producer Grant and pleasure for me besides be- tion held here on Tuesday. Global Heslov, the TV spot serves as a ing a choice in sync with MSGM, face — and legs — of the label for sequel to the label’s latest com- a brand that has always been the fourth year, Roberts proved mercial, where the actress was close to the world of music.” to be the perfect ambassador shopping at a brand’s store and The exhibition will be cele- for the hosiery specialist meeting leaving with bags in hands. Now brated with an opening event on the press sporting black fishnet she’s back at the shop, wearing a Wednesday, which is expected tights. The actress styled them black dress and polka-dot tights to draw Giorgetti, Floyd and The with a simple Equipment white and inspiring other customers to Verve’s members. — ALESSAN- shirt, Givenchy black miniskirt, copy her look. DRA TURRA Longchamp ankle boots and her Julia Roberts in the Held at the company’s head- signature, contagious smile. Calzedonia 2015 TV quarters, located a 20-minute “I’m just happy to work for advertising campaign. ride from Verona, Calzedonia’s Simply a company that has the same fashion show presented a wide values of family that I have,” said The actress also underscored assortment of tights, ranging Comic Roberts, who was in the city of her relationship with Givenchy’s from timeless fishnets to polka This fall, Uniqlo is joining the Verona, Italy, for the first time. former creative director Riccardo dots, from glittery options or heavily costumed masses at New “I appreciate this collaboration Tisci, cemented two years ago styles showcasing creative York Comic Con. because maybe four years ago through the advertising cam- patterns. Roberts attended the The Japanese retailer has I was getting a little lazy about paign she fronted for the French main show on Tuesday evening partnered with the event’s pro- my fashion and this [partnership] label. wearing a pink dress paired to ducer ReedPop on an exclusive kind of brought me back into the “He understands me, under- polka dots black tights. In addi- line of UT T-shirts. The three-shirt fun of adding that element of stands what I like to wear, how tion, another show was held in the capsule, designed by artists stockings and tights,” she contin- he wants to see me look and morning at the presence of Italian Jason Polan and James Jarvis, ued, adding that she was “a victim how I want to look,” she said. top influencer and entrepreneur will be sold exclusively on-site at of enjoying the bare legs and I no “It’s a great a little combination Chiara Ferragni. — SANDRA at the Uniqlo NYCC booth in Oc- longer am.” of things, he gets me out of my SALIBIAN tober. An additional collaboration Retracing her relationship with comfort zone.” with the Japanese manga series the fashion world since the early Fashion aside, Roberts, who’s A T-shirt One Piece will be available in stages of her career, Roberts also the face of beauty label designed A Verve stores and online, and Uniqlo will praised two designers in particu- Lancôme, shared her secret for by Jason also sponsor a Comic Con ticket lar, both Italian. longevity, as she approaches her Polan for Record giveaway beginning Sept. 6. “I really think the first designer 50th birthday in a month. Uniqlo. A music lover, MSGM founder “Uniqlo has collaborated with that I felt kinship and in a rela- “It really is about being happy and creative director Massimo Jason Polan and James Jarvis tionship with was Giorgio Armani, in your life and surround yourself proach. “I feel the whole panick- for the rest of the year, as her Giorgetti has decided to sponsor on previous UT (Uniqlo T-shirt) who is just one of the kindest with people that are meaningful ing about age…is made up. I don’t upcoming movie “Wonder” will the “You Rise, Then You’re Gone collections, and we wanted to people and such a timeless, to you,” she said, mentioning her think anybody is really panicking bow in cinemas on November. — The Verve: Photographs by translate their unique designs classic, incredible designer,” family on top of the list. “All those about getting older because the Starring along with Owen Wilson, Chris Floyd” exhibition, opening at and our love of art and pop cul- she revealed, adding that her things translate and become alternative is worse,” she joked. “I Jacob Tremblay and Daveed London’s Art Bermondsey Project ture to New York Comic Con in a attraction to men’s wear was the what you look like.…You can kind don’t feel panic, I might wake up Diggs, the actress plays the Space on Wednesday. special way through our appar- trigger that drew her to Armani. of fake it in your twenties but in Oct. 29 [her birthday] and weep protective mother of a young boy The exhibit, running until el,” said Marisol Tamaro, Head of “He really [directed] me into the your fifties, how you feel is really but I doubt it, I don’t think it’s struggling to overcome a facial Sept. 16, collects a range of vivid Marketing at Uniqlo USA. idea of what fashion can mean, just there on your face,” she said. going to happen.” difference. images which British photogra- NYCC will take place Oct. 5 to 8 so I’m very appreciative of him,” The milestone does not seem In addition to birthday cele- Roberts will also work and pher Chris Floyd took between at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Roberts said. to undermine her optimistic ap- brations, Roberts’ agenda is full star in her first TV show, named 1994 and 1997 when he followed Center. — KRISTEN TAUER

Carolyn Murphy is featured in Veronica Memo Pad Beard’s slash/series.

advertising campaign, which is with the fall season. “This is going sides because we believe that Helping intended to support the veterans to be long-term. It really has trans- these aspects of their personas as they seek employment and formed us.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI often prove to be most fulfilling.” Veterans re-emergence into society. The series will kick off with Hickey Freeman was searching In July, the company donated Carolyn Murphy, mom/model/ for a way to make a difference. some 400 suits created in its Slash Series surfer; Laura Brown, editor/wine And the upscale men’s brand has factory in Rochester, N.Y., to the Veronica Beard, the ready-to- drinker/dog lover, and Maya Haile found it — veterans. On Thursday, Veterans Outreach Center in that wear company that has been ex- Samuelsson, mother/activist/ the brand will host a Heroes city for veterans to use in their panding its retail, wholesale and basketball player. A second & Leaders event to celebrate job search. e-commerce business domesti- series will be launched later this America’s veterans and kick off The goal of the campaign, cally and internationally, will today year. its fall marketing campaign that which was photographed by Raen unveil what it’s calling a “slash/ Claiborne Swanson Frank (Ve- will highlight those who fought in Badua, who served six years in series,” an ongoing photography ronica Swanson Beard’s sister) the Iraq and Afghanistan wars. the U.S. Army as an automated and videography series that will photographed the series, while But Stephen Granovsky, logistics specialist, is to create highlight the multifaceted nature Matthew Miele (Veronica Miele chief executive officer of Hickey awareness of the skills and of women. The aim is to share the Beard’s brother) directed the Freeman, said the initiative is character that service men and many sides, or “slashes,” of its video content. The content will more than just an ad campaign women develop that will make female participants. be seen across multiple digital and a party. them successful in the private Veronica Swanson Beard, who touch points, including Veronica “This began as a marketing sector. It features veterans from studied at The New School’s Par- Beard digital, social and YouTube discussion with CAA,” he said. a variety of lifestyles and profes- sons School of Design, operates channels and display media. “We were looking for a cause that sions and tells their stories in still the privately held company with Beard, which launched in 2010 was greater than our brand. The photos and videos. These include her sister-in-law, Veronica Miele with its signature Dickey jacket, old days of celebrity endorse- Wes Moore, author and ceo of Beard, former chief operating has been growing at a fast clip. It ments and traditional media have The Robin Hood Foundation; Jake officer of technology hedge fund opened its first stand-alone store gone by the wayside. So we were Wood, founder of Team Rubicon; Coatue. on Madison Avenue in New York searching for a creative option to Joe Cardona of the New England The cofounders developed the in August 2016, and followed with bring our brand to life. We’re very Patriots, who is also in the Navy series to empower women to de- locations in SoHo last April and good at creating product, but Reserves; Sunny Li, an invest- fine themselves by what makes Dallas last month. The label will to reach the wider public in this ment banker with Citibank, as them unique, #andthensome. introduce two new categories digital age is very challenging.” well as several Hickey Freeman “At Veronica Beard, we believe this fall: jeans and shoes, and has He said the initiative started employees. that women are not one-di- is what inspires every piece we paign: “Through the ‘slash/series,’ expanded its global presence internally and will now be used Granovsky said the campaign mensional; rather, they embody design,” said Veronica Swanson we hope to encourage women with a launch on Net-a-porter. externally through the use of the will be ongoing and will not end countless, unique sides, and this Beard, who added of the cam- to showcase their lesser known — LISA LOCKWOOD