Volume 49:4 October–December 2008 www.namyco.org Good Times Had by All in McCall The 2008 foray honoring the Sundberg, and Steve Trudell. The memory of beloved Mycologist Dr. extra specialists were appreciated Orson K. Miller, Jr., held on Labor because of the abundance of fungi. Day weekend, was a delightful and Many of the choicest, most successful celebration. The weather favorite edible mushrooms were in and mushrooms cooperated beyond abundance, so everyone could boast belief. of picking a basketful. You could McCall is where Orson and hear a big sigh of relief from Hope Miller spent many vacations Mycophagy Chair Ursula Pohl as and spare time when not at Virginia well; she had more than enough for Tech; then they made it their retire- the Saturday tasting, unlike the case Photo: L. Gillman ment home. Camp Pinewood, the in the past several years. The full site for the foray, is situated right in voucher collection list will be And Tom Volk presented both McCall. The Southern Idaho Myco- published at a later date on the sides of the case for wood decays: logical Association (SIMA) hosted NAMA website after Patrick destructive, but very much an the event and made sure NAMA was Leacock has a chance to check the important part of a healthy eco- well cared for. collection into the Field Museum. system. Some of his photos will not Dr. Cathy Cripps, a former The program sessions were be forgotten, especially those Miller protégé, was Foray Mycolo- stimulating and extremely interest- showing what molds and decays can gist, assisted by additional Guest ing. Among them, a forester from do to a musty and damp basement. Mycologists Drs. Tom Volk, Steve the Forest Service discussed the There were several excellent Miller, Vera Evenson, Walter ecology/biology of the forest floor workshops and discussions as well after a fire. Fires do not kill every- for those who were weary from thing in their path and often provide hauling heavy baskets of boletes the needed nutrients and space for back to camp. the regeneration of native species. Fire skips and hops, leaving islands Continued on page 2 of vegetation for repopulation; and in areas where burning occurs, it often varies in its intensity. All this In this issue: provides variation in regeneration. Dr. Rosentreter treated us to a From the President ...... 2 close-up look at the northern flying Activities & Announcements ...... 3 squirrel, its lifestyle, and its unique diet of truffles and other fungi. His Service Awards Given ...... 3 photos were stunning, too. Foraying South of the Border ..... 4 Steve Miller continues encour- aging us to give Russulas a chance Book Reviews ...... 6 by making them more familiar and Foray 2009 ...... 7 less overwhelming to identify. Yes, Mushroom of the Month ...... 8 each species can come in a wide variety of colors, but by paying close attention to habitat, spore The photo contest winning slides will be posted on the website. colors, bruising, and odors, we can sort them out.
1T1 he Mycophile, October–December 2008 F R O M T H E P R E S I D E N T Moving? Please send your new address, two weeks before you move, to Ann Bornstein You’ll notice something new with others are currently discussing the NAMA Membership Secretary this issue of The Mycophile. In our future of NAMA’s publications, 61 Devon Court search for a new editor of the including such possibilities as Watsonville, CA 95076-1160
The Mycophile, October–December 2008 2 A C T I V I T I E S & A N N O U N C E M E N T S
Upcoming Events observations are invaluable in McCall Foray Report, cont. from p. 1 treating mushroom poisoning cases. Taos, New Mexico Dr. Denis Benjamin, author of Officers Elected Aug. 20–25, 2009 Mushrooms, Poisons and Panaceas, At the general meeting Saturday states that Marilyn “has contributed evening, elections were held for: Simms Camp, Newfoundland more to our knowledge of • 2nd Vice-President: Adele Sept. 11-13, 2009 mushroom toxicology in the last few Mehta, elected to replace www.nlmushrooms.ca decades than the medical/veterinary Maggie Rogers professions combined.” Nice Cain Foray accolade! Congratulations Marilyn! • 4 Regional Trustees: Toronto, Ontario Re-elected Sept. 18–20, 2009 R 1: Carleen Skeffington Oregon Truffle Oil R 2: Ursula Pohl NEMF Sam Ristich Foray R 9: Patrice Benson Cape Cod, Massachusetts Jack Czarnecki, formerly of Elected: Oct. 15–18, 2009 Joe’s Restaurant in Reading, R 4: Aaron Wolfenbarger, Pennsylvania, now of the Joel new member NAMA Foray Palmer House in Oregon, and author of A Cook’s Book of Lafayette, Louisiana Mushrooms, is working on producing Nov. 26-29, 2009 truffle oil made from the Oregon The Gulf States Mycological White Truffle, Tuber oregonense. Society is the host and coordinator. This will be a first for the U.S., as Look for more information in a most of the truffle oils on the subsequent Mycophile, along with market come from Europe. the registration form, as well as on The smallish white truffle has our website (www.namyco.org) in good flavor and is great fun to look May or June. for during the winter months. It’s a Photo: L. Gillman challenge to beat the squirrels and other fauna to the best spots; but NAMA Service Rewarded Marilyn Shaw Honored when found, these truffles can be used in many ways. The winners for the Outstanding Marilyn Shaw was recently Check out the website www. Service Awards were announced. honored by the Colorado Mycologi- oregontruffleoil.com. The recipients for the following cal Society with the Lifetime Service two awards are selected from mem- Award for all her tireless work for bers who have been nominated by their society and mushroomers in Toronto Club Loses their respective clubs for Meritorious Service within their society. These general. Valuable Mycophiles Marilyn became interested in awards have separate categories: mushrooms in the 1960s and has The Award for Contributions The Mycological Society of been studying, teaching and writing to Amateur Mycology is for Toronto lost both their president and about them ever since. Because of exemplary service to NAMA and vice-president to death in January. the medical mycology conferences mycology in general. Candidates The president, Dr. Vello Soots, held in Aspen in the 1970s, and later may be nominated by anyone in passed away January 18. He was her association with Sam Mitchell at NAMA. Vera Evenson (shown above NAMA’s 2001 Harry and Elsie the Rocky Mt. Poison Center, she with Hope), a longtime NAMA Knighton Service Award recipient. naturally gravitated to the toxicology member of Colorado Mycological Vice-president John Sparling passed side of mushroom study. She joined Society member, field guide author, away on January 13, 2009. Our NAMA’s toxicology committee, held and Curator of the Herbarium at the condolences to the Society and their seminars and created a national Denver Botanic Gardens, is the families. roster of mushroom experts for more-than-deserving recipient. consultation in mushroom The Harry and Elsie Knighton poisonings. Her recordkeeping of Service Award (named in honor of toxicology reports and detailed Continued on page 4
3The Mycophile, October–December 2008 McCall Foray Report, cont. from p. 1 Foraying above the Clouds South of the Border
NAMA’s Founder) is for extra- by Gundi Jeffrey ordinary service within one’s own society, and candidates are nomi- We woke up to a bright, sunny day Also, although half of our nated by the members of that in the outskirts of Amecameca, a members are ex-pats from Canada society. This year’s winner is Brian small town existing somewhat and the United States, we have McNett, a member of the Kitsap precariously on the western slopes recently been more successful in Peninsula Mycological Society of Popocatepetl (better known as attracting Mexican citizens to our (Washington state), who has recently Popo), the famous, very active membership. They bring a wonder- moved to Texas for a new job. volcano southeast of Mexico City. ful addition to the club —children. The President’s Award, given for MycoAficionados of Mexico (Mico- Mexicans tend to take their children devotion to NAMA and amateur Aficionados de México), the only everywhere, and it has been mycology, went to two beloved and bilingual, amateur mushroom club inspiring to see how excited the recently departed members, Ben in Mexico, chose this location for its kids, aged 5–18, are at discovering Woo and Dr. Orson K. Miller (and August 2008 foray because of its treasures in the woods. Because of Hope Miller was included with renown for giant morels. And we the mix, with not everyone being Orson, but thankfully she is still were indeed lucky enough to find bilingual, most of the meetings take with us!). some. place in Spanish, which is a chal- Our club, founded in late 2004, lenge for some; but it helps every- Items of Interest from the is affiliated with NAMA and is the one learn about fungi in another Trustees’ Meeting: one that finally established the language. Our website, www.namyco.org, Association’s presence in the We tend to have four or five has been completely redone with a southernmost nation on the North meetings a year: one in winter lot of changes and new sections American map. MycoAficionados is where we have a presentation of added. David Rust, regional trustee somewhat different in may respects some sort, then a brief annual from California, took on the task and from our counterparts in el Norte. meeting, followed by a gourmet pot- has created a new look with some For one thing, our membership luck dinner. At least three of our expanded sections. Watch for is not local, but is scattered among members are renowned chefs who indexes to previously published five states of Mexico: Tlaxcala, willingly share their knowledge with newsletters and the journal, where it is headquartered; Puebla, the rest of us. Our Mexican mem- McIlvainea; the teaching trunk for next door; the state of Mexico bers have proven keen to learn how educators will be illustrated; and (where Amecameca is); Oaxaca; and to prepare mushroom dishes and other items of interest will be added Chihuahua. Then we also have contribute interesting recipes of their or expanded. some enthusiastic non-resident own. The overhaul is still a work in members in Texas, New Mexico, The other meetings are forays, progress so look for some of the California, and Hong Kong, several usually one in Tlaxcala and the additional features to come. Ike of whom have flown in to join club others out of state, with members in congratulated David for accom- forays and events. Currently, we those regions hosting the events. We plishing a large and difficult task. number 38—up considerably from pick our locations in early spring to David welcomes additional ideas the five original founders, including coincide with what we know will from members. our current president, Dr. Arturo grow in those locations. In Septem- Estrada Torres of the University of ber, for example, we will go to Editors Needed Tlaxcala, one of Mexico’s foremost northern Puebla where there is a Britt Bunyard resigned from mycologists. place with wonderful stone forma- editorship of both Mycophile and tions set among pine forests. We McIlvainea to publish a different expect to find a wide variety of fungal publication, FUNGI. boletes there. New editors are needed for But most recent was the foray to NAMA publications, but for the short Amecameca for the morels. One of term, Mike Beug will edit our members lives there—she has a McIlvainea. Some fairly extensive chinchilla ranch with 11,000 animals— changes are coming to both publica- which already was interesting for tions in the near future. (President our members who attended. We Ike has some things to say about stayed in a lovely forest hotel next this in his message on page 2.) door to the ranch—notable because it is a family hotel on one side and an Continued on page 7 Gundi and friends in front of Popo
The Mycophile, October–December 2008 4 “auto-hotel” for lovers only on the Next we headed to a location But we are trying to change that, other side. The setting was very rumoured to be abundant with with education and presentations by attractive, and right across the road chanterelles, but that, too was an our experts. We are lucky to have we were lucky to have a real overstatement: we found a few, but access to some of the top mycolo- Spanish restaurant, featuring all the it was clear that other pickers had gists in Mexico. savory, rich, and warming special- been there before us. But, again, the After our day in the woods, we ties of España—wonderful food for views of Popo were spectacular, and gathered at our host Patricia’s those who came the night before the the forest was beautiful and restful. rancho to prepare dinner with our foray. Some even had hearty fabada And it was such a peaceful place for finds. For her part, Patricia had (bean stew) and tortilla española (egg our lunch break. arranged a meal of Chiles en nogada, and potato pancake) for breakfast. Finally, our guide Arturo owned an indescribably delicious special Early Saturday morning we set up that getting to the morels, which dish made only at this time of the off for the national park on Popo, he called “mazorkas,” would be an year, which coincides with picking up our guide en route. In all-day affair, hiking up hill for Independence Day. It consists of Mexico you need a guide and special hours—and here it was already late poblano chiles stuffed with a permission to pick mushrooms in all in the day. But he did know of one mixture of cooked ground beef, nuts, national parks and local protected spot near the road back down the and dried fruit, which is put in an areas. These guides are treasures mountain. Off we went, all a little eggwash and deep-fried, and topped because, not only do they know tired from all the walking and the with a walnut cream sauce and where to find what, but they tell us heights, for our final searching of pomegranate seeds, reflecting the about local common names (which, the day. Most of us came up with colors of the Mexican flag. Pasta unfortunately, are different in every very little, but we did find five with mushrooms done in a brandy- place we visit), mushroom usage, largish morels, along with one lone cream sauce and a polenta dish with what is prized, and what is con- Boletus pinophilus, close cousin to yet more mushrooms accompanied sidered dangerous. The knowledge the King Bolete, found here most the chiles. We dined superbly. is handed down through the genera- commonly. Brand-new member Carole tions, albeit not always accurately. Among our edible haul this day Reedy, also new to Tlaxcala, said, “I We have had local people empty our were the bolete, the morels, chan- participated in this foray as a lark, baskets before we could stop them terelles, some Lactarius deliciosus, a because I was invited by dear because they said some of our few helvella, and various smaller friends Erik and Gundi. By the end mushrooms were “killers”—this in specimens, such as Hygrophorus. of the day—and especially the reference to Amanita rubescens. We even found many Hygrophoropsis dinner—I was signing up to be a Nevertheless, it is fascinating for us aurantiaca, false chaterelle, which, member. The warmth and diversity to learn about local customs, mush- despite its bad reputation up north, of the club’s members, as well as room lore, and medicinal uses for is eaten and enjoyed here. Because the beauty of the mountains and the fungi. For example, Ustilago maydis, none of our mycologists was with adventure of hunting for the un- or corn smut, generally known as us, we concentrated on mushrooms usual mushrooms, got me hooked. I huitlacoche, not only makes a we already knew to be edible and am already looking forward the next fabulous soup or a tasty sauce, but left the others in situ. outing.” also it works as a balm for burns. The mushrooms of Mexico tend Replete, we returned to our Amanita muscaria is used to make an to be similar to those of temperate hotel. On our trip back home the insect repellant. Canada and the U.S., with micro- next day, we took a slow route Our destination was the national scopic differences. I can’t tell them through forest-covered mountains. I park nestled between Popo and its apart, but our mycologists can. Of was thinking we might look for sister volcano Iztaccíhuatl, which is course, the types of mushrooms some more mushrooms. To our not active but is spread out and found depend on the eco-environ- surprise, the roadside in one area majestic. It was glorious to see ment, and we search in high moun- was lined with mushrooms vendors snowclad Popo against a bright blue tains (12,000 feet is just about right —local people who know, collect, sky, little bursts of white smoke for finding boletes) all the way down eat, sell, and love mushrooms— puffing away, so close you could to sea-level jungles. We tend not to whose colorful buckets were filled almost touch it. We were at almost visit tropical habitats too often as with mushrooms of all sorts: a rare 12,000 feet and literally breathless they are hot, humid, and alive with white Lactarius that I would have with awe. One of our foray sites insects, and the mushrooms are sworn was a white chanterelle, a was right across the way. We were small and generally not edible. wide variety of edible Russula, some looking for Helvella lacunosa, a The club is made up mostly of Amanita rubescens, many kinds of popular mushrom prized by the people with little mushroom knowl- Ramaria, and loads of Gomphus locals as “being almost the same as edge, who tend to be pot-hunters morels.” Well, for us, not quite. without a great interest in all fungi. Continued on page 7
5The Mycophile, October–December 2008 B O O K S R E V I E W E D
For your reading pleasure: These landscapes of fire-carved caves, He also wrote another rocket ride: reviews are less formal than our hidden gardens of ferns and mush- The Hot Zone, about the Ebola virus. usual, but something to look for rooms, lichens and fruiting huckle- He never experienced Ebola first- when wanting some fun. . . . berries, and naturally bonsai’d trees. hand (thank God), but he and his Not to mention unique amphibians family DID learn how to climb Tall Murder on the Menu, ed. by Martin and insects and other flying and Trees. This book will stick in your Henry Greenberg and Isaac Asimov. crawling, canopy-dwelling animals. psyche and rekindle your sense of Avon, 1984. Like us mushroomers, they have wonder. Somehow, hunting morels developed their own language to in the mountains just doesn’t seem “Blewits,” said Inspector Burden. describe their experiences, including all that adventurous anymore. . . . “Parasols, Horns of Plenty, Morels, and words such as cratering (a deadly fall —Debbie Viess Boletus. Mean anything to you?” from a tall tree), headache (short- Chief Inspector Wexford shrugged. hand for “look out below”!), and “Sounds like one of those magazine The Debt to Pleasure, by John skywalking (balletic movement quizzes. What have these in common? I’ll Lanchester. Holt, 1996. The original between branches and trees hun- make a guess and say they’re crustacea. cover featured a luscious peach, but dreds of feet off the ground, under- Or sea anemones; how about that?” the cover of the Picador edition taken while suspended on “spider (2001) has pears—somewhat irrele- Thus begins a 1977 short story ropes”). vantly, I think. by Ruth Rendell, “The Case of the A good bit of the action takes Shaggy Caps,” reprinted in Murder place in the redwood groves of Cali- The supercilious, snobbish, on the Menu, an anthology of very fornia (my Alma Mater, Humboldt hedonistic—albeit highly erudite— good and amusing stories with a State, is mentioned many times), narrator of this witty novel sets out foreword by Isaac Asimov. And the and the sense of wonder, drama, on a trip from his native Britain to title of Miss Rendell’s contribution is and tension never abates. I can’t the south of France to do research its first red herring. If I also tell you recommend this book highly enough. for an unconventional cookbook. that one of the dinner guests is an And yes, there is a mushroom The results, in his own words, are alcoholic, with the others who connection: on pages 60–61, the “gastro-historico-psycho-autobio- include her husband, her brother, work of Bill Dennison is mentioned. graphico-philosophic lucubrations.” and her husband’s ex-girlfriend Bill began his scientific career He discusses topics such as the abstaining, that Inspector Burden studying lungwort in the Doug Fir erotics of dislike, the cultural and drinks whiskey and eats shaggy caps canopy (old-growth Doug Firs are psychological implications of a to test a theory, and that the victim’s also Tall Trees, reaching a couple menu, apéritifs and wines, recipes death results from a fall off her hundred feet in height). Lungwort is for blinis, bouillabaisse with aïoli, balcony a few days later—can you a Lobaria lichen that lives high in curry, roasts, stews, peaches in wine construct the plot? —Ursula Hoffman the canopy and takes nitrogen from and much more, along with the the atmosphere, providing it to Tall history and etymology of ingredi- Wild Trees, by Richard Preston. Tree epiphytes. ents, as well as what he deems to be Random House, 2007. Bill loved wild mushrooms, and the correct way to prepare and serve. Sure, mushroomers can be supported himself in college back in The book is organized by season, obsessive, but we don’t hunt our the 1980s by hunting them com- starting with “Winter.” So the last prey 35 stories above the ground! I mercially. Although they are not part, of course, is “Autumn”—with just finished one of the most amaz- wild to North America, he loved an expert’s mushroom hunt and the ing books that I have ever read: the shiitakes in particular, and studied “proper” preparation of two authentic narrative is edge-of-your-seat, can’t- Asian cultivation practices, even- French mushroom omelettes. The sit-still, exclaim-aloud kinda reading. tually forming his own company, symptoms caused by ingestion of Wild Trees is a nonfiction Northwest Mycological Consultants. certain poisonous mushrooms are account of the various people in He was instrumental in adapting clinically described and put into recent history who became obsessed Asian mushroom-growing tech- historical perspective. with finding (and climbing) the niques for a U.S. market. Bill At the very end of the book, the tallest trees in the world. By so Dennison is the main reason that latest “murdered couple” of victims, doing, they discovered—at huge folks can buy shiitakes in grocery replete after their “delicious” break- personal risk—an uncharted world of stores all over America. fast and with many thanks and wonder. At the top of the redwood I think Richard Preston, the farewells to their gracious host, canopy, unseen and unexpected, are author of this book, is a great writer. drive away, “leaving behind them a
The Mycophile, October–December 2008 6 McCall Foray Report, cont. from p. 1 NAMA’s Foray 2009: Directory of Members The membership directory was Thanksgiving in the Deep South not published this year, as a cost savings; and consideration is being NAMA’s 2009 Foray will be held Drs. Andy Methven and Walt given to placing it in a “members in Lafayette, Louisiana, November Sundberg have generously agreed to only” (password-protected) section on 26–29. teach a microscopic course prior to the website. Lafayette is considered to be the the foray, beginning Monday, Nov. heart of the Cajun culture, with 23 and continuing through Slide Shows Turned to CDs unique topography, cuisine, and Wednesday or Thursday morning. It Mike Beug has been turning the fungi. We will stay at the Holiday is a wonderful opportunity for those educational slide show programs Inn and foray into varied and eager to do taxonomic work at a into CDs using the original master dramatic forests. We will have the deeper level to have such guidance. slides from which the loaners were opportunity to hunt from wetland Since the class will include both made. The existing slide programs flats to hardwood uplands, from live lectures and a large emphasis on have been used so much that many oak to beech—magnolia to cypress- laboratory experience, student of the colors have faded and tupelo forests for wide fungal numbers will be limited and changed. The new CDs will not be possibilities. We will be able to hunt accepted on a first-come basis. subject to that kind of fading and at the state Arboretum, additional should last longer. Some of the state parks, Nature Conservancy ◆ programs are still in slide format as areas, and some private properties. the project is not finished yet. The For members who wish to avoid Registrations will soon be released list on the website notes which the holiday traffic, reduced room so treat yourself to a little French programs are in which format: see rates will make it possible to arrive cooking and Low Country gracious- the listings under Education at early and remain an extra day or ness this holiday. www.namyco.org. two.
Book Reviews, continued Mushrooms of Idaho: Newest Foray in Mexico, cont. from page 5 slow cloud of settling dust.” And NAMA CD by Michael Beug flocossus which, despite the hard only at that point the surprised work needed to clean it, is very reader realizes that ALL the charac- Mushrooms of Idaho was popular here. I bought so many ters who in some way touched the presented in honor of Dr. Orson mushrooms, I ended up cooking narrator’s life have died or might die Miller at the 2008 NAMA foray in them all week. Good thing we have under mysterious circumstances. Oh McCall, Idaho. visitors coming tomorrow. yes, when prompted over breakfast, This 40-minute presentation is the narrator recalled his last conver- now available through the NAMA [Gundi Jeffrey is vice-president and sation with his brother where he Educational Committee (www. goforeverything of MicoAficionados de had argued brilliantly and at length namyco.org) along with the 21 other México/MycoAficionados of Mexico. that a murderer is the most impor- CDs prepared by Dr. Michael Beug She and her husband Erik Purre run tant cultural figure in the modern in 2007 and 2008. Mexican Mushroom Tours, featuring world: the artist, such as his brother The program is fully narrated one tour each year in a different part was, may be the oyster but the and can be used at home on your of Mexico. Part eco-tour, part cultural murderer is the pearl! Now ask computer or at a meeting. Like the exploration, and part gastronomic yourself whether you might have other new CDs, instructions are adventure, these excursions teach just read the autobiography of a included on how to add to or delete people about a view of Mexico very serial killer with the subtlest clues parts of the program to customize it different from the usual tourist routes.] ever, reread the book — and then for your personal or club use. ponder the novel’s title. . . . A New York Times Notable Book and winner of many literary prizes The Editor Pro Tem of this issue (J. Roger) wishes to thank and awards, highly recommended to Linnea Gillman and Hugh Smith for great CDs of photos food and mushroom lovers by from the past foray—they are wonderful! We hope to use —Ursula Hoffman more of them in future issues or have David place them on our website. Thank you!
7The Mycophile, October–December 2008 North American Mycological Association 61 Devon Court NONPROFIT ORG. U.S. POSTAGE Watsonville, CA 95076-1160 PAID PERMIT NO. 1260 Address Service Requested CHAS. WV 25301
Mushroom of the Month
Debbie Viess found this giant Pseudohydnum gelatinosum at a recent foray near Mendocino, California. The cap of the central specimen measured between 5 and 6 cm in diameter. Its two companions are more normal in size.
Photo: Judy Roger
The Mycophile, October–December 2008 8