text by SUE CROWE photographs by MICHAEL AW A FEW TRUTHS ABOUT BALI BALI REVISITED Truth No 1 - None of the world class diving is on Kuta’s doorstep. It is not possible to buy a half-day dive INDEPTH trip and expect good diving. Truth No 2 - Bali is not a huge island BUT getting from Bali was discovered as TWENTY YEARS AGO A to B is a wonderland of sights and takes much longer than a diving destination and, in an incredibly short period mere kilometres suggest. Splitting your holiday is the best of time, the market expanded and grew exponentially. way to make the most of Bali diving (and sightseeing). Then returning divers complained the diving was not so good. How did this happen and is it still true today? Truth No 3 - Most people are tempted to Bali by the Sue Crowe found out. incredible package deals (understandably) but travellers do Bali today is a major tourist destination; take an not always realise they can stay on after the package is over empty suitcase and go shopping, surfi ng, wining and or split the package and do their own thing in the middle. dining. It has more than 120 dive operations. However, Using package deals to your advantage allows travellers as most of these are simply fronts and booking shops, to get the best of both worlds and miss nothing. it is imperative to separate the “wheat from the chaff” or you may well be disappointed. works, know where the great diving areas are and use Whatever its past reputation, Bali is a place of the Bali tourist phenomenon to your advantage. outstanding beauty above and below the waterline; Today, professional tour operators survive amongst with more diversity of species than Ambon and the not-so-professional by understanding what Manado – areas long heralded as brilliant dive customers want and making sure they provide only destinations. The trick to a truly successful and the very best dive experiences. rewarding dive holiday in Bali is to understand how it This is a brief guide to get you started. The new Queen of the Sea live-aboard - a deluxe live-aboard dive platform to dive Bali and Beyond 8 ScubaDiver ScubaDiver 9 AUSTRALASIA AUSTRALASIA WHERE TO DIVE? 1 & 4. Mystery Point, North of Tulamben, favourite spot of Tony Medcraft, Tulamben Wreck Divers. Padang Bai, Candidasa 2. Fantasea Wall, Tulamben. Padang Bai is a small, scenic and busy fishing village 3. Salang Drop-off. and port. The reefs in the area all have white bottoms and the diving can be absolutely stunning. Tepekong, a short boat ride from Padang Bai and an even shorter hop from Candidasa, is a volcanic Nusa Penida, hump rising out of the water. Underwater this area Nusa Lembongan & Nusa Ceningan is covered with medusa-like coral heads absolutely This group of small islands south-east of Bali is adorned with blood-red sea fans, tunicates and recognised by experienced divers, photographers and various sponges. The competition for space is marine biologists as one of Bali’s most exhilarating unbelievable. A drift dive, Tepekong can have strong dive locations. It is here you will find the illusive Sunfish currents but you are often rewarded with the sight of (July through November) and all the really big fish! big pelagic fish and, sometimes, Sunfish. Grey reef The excellent high action adventure diving in this sharks are also common in the area. area is due to the islands fringing a deep seaway Gili Mimpang consists of three mini rock islands, channel which moves large volumes of water slope and walls 12 minutes by speed boat from between the Indian Ocean and the Java Sea. With the Padang Bai. This area has excellent coral coverage upwellings and currents, the big fish come to feed on and variety with a 95 per cent chance of seeing sharks the nutrient-rich waters. and occasionally Manta rays and Sunfish. Good Predominantly drift diving, famous dive sites variety of reef fish. A highlight is Shark Junction, one of include: Blue Corner, Crystal Bay, Toyapakeh and 1 the few spots to get a shot of a swimming shark from SD. There are also beautiful healthy reefs with almost 2 underneath. Note that around new moon diving is only no coral bleaching. It is fantastic to see these huge enjoyable for the experienced diver because of strong 3 beds of coral disappearing into the distance and, 4 and tricky currents. needless to say, the marine life they support is equally The Blue Lagoon is a five-minute boat ride from breathtaking. Padang Bai harbour and both north and south sections are excellent dive sites. The southern part of the reef Area Overview drops vertically to 20 metres and continues in a sandy Bali access point: Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, area. The underwater landscape is dominated by up Nusa Dua, Denpasar – boats leave from Benoa to four-metre high soft coral and ledges hiding large Harbour. Transport provided spiny lobsters. Within a short distance a large staghorn Overall rating: 7/10 coral field stretches in eight metres of depth, alive with Photo ops: 7/10 oriental sweetlips, basslets and schools of glassfish. Expect to see: Lovely reefs with healthy hard and soft Finally, hard coral fields replace the sandy area. coral beds, plenty of fish life including sea snakes and blue ribbon eels. On the more advanced dives expect Area Overview to see rays (Bull and Spotted), barracuda, reef sharks, Bali access point: Area & villages surrounding whalers, Manta rays and, if you are really lucky, the Padang Bai fabulous Mola Mola (Sunfish) and whalesharks. Overall rating: 7/10 Added incentives: Possibility of staying in lovely Photo ops: 6/10 beachside Hai Tide Huts on Lembongan and diving ‘in Expect to see: Big pelagic fish around Tepekong due situ’. Not travelling everyday means more diving and a to currents, and lovely reefs around Padang Bai. Two wider variety of sites – it is also much more relaxing. extremes but perfectly suited dive types. Need to know: Blue Corner is an advanced dive Added incentives: Surrounding water garden and due to the currents but most of the other sites are temples. intermediate. A trip to this area is at least one whole Need to know: Beware of strong currents at day – more if you stay in the beachside huts. Tepekong and on the new moon at Gili Mimpang. 10 ScubaDiver ScubaDiver 11 AUSTRALASIA AUSTRALASIA WHERE TO DIVE? Tulamben Wreck Divers Resort Scuba Seraya Resort Tulamben, Amed, Rubaya There is a fantastic variety of dive sites in this area but Area Overview the most famous is the Liberty Wreck off the beach at Bali access point: Tulamben, Amed, Rubaya, Tulamben. At 120 metres long, the wreck – previously Amlapura and surrounding villages an American supply ship – rests at a 90-degree angle Overall rating: 10/10 for variety – something for with the deck facing the sea side. everyone. Anchored off the coast of Lombok, the ship was Photo ops: 10/10 hit by a Japanese torpedo during World War II. The Expect to see: Healthy corals, brilliant marine life American Navy’s plan to tow the ship to Singaraja on wreck, huge gorgonians and barrel sponges, Harbour (north Bali) failed as the harbour was Bumphead parrotfish, Napoleon wrasse, reef sharks completely occupied, so the ship was intentionally and barracuda and so on … too many to mention. stranded on the rocky beach of Tulamben. In 1963 Added incentives: Excellent access to water Mount Agung (the volcano which towers over gardens, paddy fields, temples, volcanos and Tulamben) erupted and the magma flow pressed general sightseeing. Brilliant diving from the shore. the ship back into the sea where it presently rests Professional Tulamben Tank Carriers who, without at a depth of range of three to 29 metres. Coral has complaint (and payment by the dive operators), carry coated the wreck turning it into a new home for an all your equipment on their heads to the beach! extraordinary number of fish, coral and invertebrates. Need to know: This area often gets very busy so it is The Liberty Wreck is an absolute underwater worth booking in advance wonderland of marine life. Schools of trevally, bream, fusilier and anthias mill all over and around the wreck, often following you during the dive. Batfish, large Menjangan Island sweetlips, angelfish, butterflyfish and anemonefish In the far north-west in Bali, Menjangan Island is a (with resident anemones of course) hover under marine reserve and features excellent walls and corals. ledges and in crevices. Lionfish, scorpionfish, The diving is only accessible by local boat which is hawkfish, Bumphead parrotfish, pufferfish and coral just delightful. trout are everywhere, as are the gobies, blennies, shrimps and dottybacks out on the sand flats. Area Overview Napoleon wrasse and barracuda are regularly spotted Bali access point: Menjangan and surrounding around the wreck. areas, including Lovina. This wreck is simply alive with life; corals, sponges Overall rating: 8/10 for variety – something for and gorgonian fans are breathtaking along with the everyone. infinite invertebrate life within them. It is simply a Photo ops: 8/10 stunning dive site with an endless variety of marine Expect to see: Healthy wall diving with wonderfully species in, on and around the wreck. healthy corals of all types, brilliant marine life including The Liberty Wreck, however, is not the only brilliant gorgonians, barrel sponges, Bumphead parrotfish, dive site in this area. Reefs, walls and drop-offs Napoleon wrasse, reef sharks and barracuda. abound with new dive sites being found all the time. Need to know: Going with a known operator Amed and Rubaya both have similar dive sites.