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Silver Streak MILAN — Disco Fever? Space Age? the Spring Collections Were fi Lled with Accessories That Gleam in Both Directions

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Silver Streak MILAN — Disco Fever? Space Age? the Spring Collections Were fi Lled with Accessories That Gleam in Both Directions RENZO’S LATEST BUY/2 REAL ESTATE/SECTION II WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 16, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Silver Streak MILAN — Disco fever? Space Age? The spring collections were fi lled with accessories that gleam in both directions. Here, Fendi’s hologram-printed silicone bag and leather belt and shoes. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Living the High Life: Rising Consumer Debt In Borrowers’ Paradise By Evan Clark merican consumers are racking Aup debt at an increasing rate, and retailers at all price points could soon start to feel the pinch. Overall, consumers have $2.35 trillion worth of outstanding debt of all kinds, according to statistics from the Federal Reserve Board. In the aggregate, U.S. households shelled out 13.93 percent of their disposable income during the first quarter to cover mortgage and consumer debt payments, according to the Fed. That’s up from 12.88 percent five years ago and 11.86 percent 10 years ago, indicating an acceleration, See Consumer, Page 11 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM Rosso Adds Italian Maker to Portfolio By Luisa Zargani WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear MILAN — Diesel chief Renzo Rosso last week re- prised his acquisition of Staff International six years ago by taking control of the Italian high-end FASHION clothing manufacturer Pier SpA, based in Mogliano Romantic, retro or out of this world, accessories from the Paris and Veneto, outside Treviso. Pier produces for brands 6 Milan spring collections were all about being ladylike. such as Chloé, Dries Van Noten, Azzedine Alaïa, Dior Homme and Plein Sud. “I said before I was interested in acquiring know- GENERAL how rather than brands, and this venture refl ects American consumers are racking up debt at an increasing rate, and this strategy,” said Rosso in a phone interview. 1 retailers at all price points could soon start to feel the pinch. “I feel I’ve saved a piece of our Made in Italy Diesel ceo Renzo Rosso took over Italian clothing fi rm Pier SpA, which [tradition]. Artisanal companies such as Pier 2 produces for the likes of Chloé, Dries Van Noten and Azzedine Alaïa. are destined to shut down because of their lack of management and funds,” said Rosso, who de- Consumers were more willing to spend in September, driving sales up 3 clined to put a price tag on Pier but said the com- 3 percent at specialty stores and 1 percent at department stores. pany registered sales of 10 million euros, or $12.5 EYE: Fame certainly has its privileges, as David Hockney learned at the million, last year. 4 party for the Burberry-sponsored retrospective of 50 years of his work. “The quality and craftsmanship of production is impeccable,” said Rosso, who plans to help American Rag Cie, known for its eclectic mix of vintage and hip clothes, raise the bar at Martin Margiela through Pier. Staff 5 has opened a fl agship at Fashion Island mall in Newport Beach, Calif. International produces collections for Margiela, Dsquared, Vivienne Westwood and Diesel Denim Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................17-19 Gallery. “I want Podium [Margiela’s latest collec- tion] to become even more luxurious,” he said. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. As for the production contracts with other fash- [email protected], using the individual’s name. ion companies, Rosso said he has no intention of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- changing those agreements. “It’s a fantastic stable RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. of brands, and I hope we’ll actually expand our pro- VOLUME 192, NO. 78. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- duction contracts with other designers,” he said. ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, The acquisition follows the recent creation of Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers a knitwear division at Staff, which, according to Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; Rosso, is growing its investments in distribution, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior research and innovation. In 2006, the company Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance expects sales of 110 million euros, or $137.9 mil- Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. lion, up from 90 million euros, or $112.8 million, 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable last year. Dollar fi gures were converted at current Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS exchange rate. CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR The previous owners of Pier, siblings Marzia DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four and Alessandro Narduzzi, will remain with the weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other company. In a statement, the Narduzzis said they U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. were “truly happy about this agreement that will First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would I said before I was interested in acquiring know-how rather interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise “ us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. than brands, and this venture refl ects this strategy. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ” ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, — Renzo Rosso, Diesel OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED bring great development and internationalization The two-story, 3,564-square-foot boutique is lo- opportunities for Pier.” cated in an architectural landmark from the late MONDAY: L’Oréal Fashion Week, Toronto (through “[The Narduzzis] are wonderful,” said Rosso, 1800s and is the fi rst in the country to display the Saturday). who was in Stockholm for the opening of Diesel’s whole range of Diesel’s collections, from accessories fi rst fl agship there. “Stockholm is one of the trend- to jewelry to ready-to-wear. Diesel’s interior design TUESDAY: Lineapelle, Bologna, Italy (through Thursday). iest cities in the world, together with Tokyo and team preserved the old stone walls and an arched The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer London, especially for young fashion,” he said. glass ceiling for natural light. Price Index for September. After Stockholm, Rosso was due to fl y to Los Angeles to re- WEDNESDAY: The Labor Department releases the ceive the “Fashion Visionary” Consumer Price Index for September. award at the third annual Holly- POWER RETAIL ON THE SQUARE wood Style Award ceremony on THURSDAY: Atlanta Women’s & Children’s Apparel and Sunday. Rosso was nominated Accessories Market (through Sunday). 23,121 SF. of retail space overlooking Union Square by Hollywood Life magazine. Oakley Inc. reports third-quarter sales and earnings. • Private ground level entrances on 17th Street/Union Square North & Park Avenue South • High Ceilings FRIDAY: Designers & Agents and Brighte Cos., Los Angeles (through Oct. 23). 100% Financing Los Angeles Spring Fashion Market (through Oct. 24). for COMING THIS WEEK VF Corp. reports third-quarter sales and earnings. ,516 SF Purchase Orders prox. 16 t eigh Target all size customers eiling H ” C Start-ups okay In Brief e Second Floor Ap Entir with 12’2 r ● oo CALL US TODAY WAGNER NAMED AT COLE HAAN: Cole Haan, a subsidiary of Fl Possible entrance nd co Nike Inc., has appointed Lori Wagner its fi rst chief marketing with existing Se Ashford Finance passenger elevator x. offi cer. Wagner was most recently senior vice president of mar- pro p SF A 00 (888) 532-9036 keting and advertising at Kenneth Cole Productions, where she t ,2 0” ht gh 4 ’ 1 ig rei ra 15 He was responsible for all aspects of marketing and global brand- g F e o g din nc ph in uil tra Se Se il B En p Ce ing for wholesale, consumer direct marketing, international E ho as ra marketing, visual merchandising and public relations.
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