FOOTSTEPS in the SAND Walking the Great British Coastline

EASTERN AIRWAYS IN-FLIGHT

Yours to keep 53 | Autumn 2015

FOOTSTEPS IN THE SAND Walking the Great British coastline

ALSO IN THIS MAGAZINE: GINO D’ACAMPO ARTISAN DRINKS ENERGY EXTRA SUPPLEMENT

WELCOME SGIOBA EASTERN SGIOBA EASTERN chluinntinn. againn, ismuarn-iris, a beachdan munt-seirbheis an-còmhnaidh toilichteur eadar-dhealaichte –thasinn cùramach agusbeagan seirbheis, andàchuid, dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE Gold award-winning airline. Welcome to Eastern Magazine, Airways the inflight magazine of Europe’s To washallthatlotdown,wetakethefirstofournew-style before toolong. we suspectshemightalsobedestinedforthesmallscreen home cookingisnowavailableinabeautifullyprintedbook: we meetMaunikaGowardhan, whoseinspirationalIndian Airwaysdestinations.And tour thattakesinseveralEastern kitchen (andjungle),GinoD’Acampo,asheembarksona Our celebrityinterviewiswiththatbubblyItaliankingofthe in Norway’s Trollheimen NationalPark. higher thansealevelasheenjoysanearlysummeradventure Still onthethemeofwalking,OllyDavytravelssomewhat name oftheQueenherself. a manwhoguideswalkersacross treacherous sandsinthe complete apathround ourentire shore. We beginbymeeting the Great Britishcoastlineaswecelebratetheaspirationto we takethefirstofwhathopewillbe regular foraysalong the yearthatmarks50thanniversaryofPennineWay Elsewhere inthemagazine,three themescometo the fore. In Southampton. frequency ofourservicesbetweenLeedsBradford and Airwaysnewsthisissuefocuses ontheincreased Eastern TÎM EASTERN am eincylchgrawn. sylwadau ameingwasanaethac amser ynfalchogaeleich yn wahanol–rydynnibob yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth wasanaethau. Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawno prif gwmnïauawyrennau yn y Airwaysymhlith y Mae Eastern Brydain FawracEwrop. cwsmeriaid ymmhobrhano magazine, ibobuno’n Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO EASTERN-TEAMET servicen ogmagasinet. dine kommentarer ombåde Vi setteralltidprispååmotta ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern velkommen. Storbritannia ogEuropa ønsker våre kunderi Airwaysmagasinet Eastern VELKOMMEN your magazineawaywithyouforfamilyandfriendstoenjoy. We Airways–dotake hopeyouenjoyyourflightwithEastern to lowoilpricereality. temperature oftheoffshore industryasitcontinuestoadapt In ourEnergy Extrasupplement,GraemeSmithtakesthe vinyl. roots inWales, whileHarryPearsonrediscovers theworldof Express writergoesinsearch asthisScots-born ofhisfamily Jonathan JonesbringsapersonaltouchtoourExploration difference. providing anationwidefuneralservicewithsomethingof pride towriteaboutamanwhosearticulatedReliantis Our motoringmanNormanBurrswallowshispetrol-head Elizabeth Barrett Browning, hastodowithreal ale. vodka. We alsoreveal whatthecelebratedVictorianpoet, whisky distillery, whichalsodoesameanlineinginand we alsopopintoseewhat’s onoffer atEngland’s second glass ortwoinMumbles,thereal alecapitalofWales, while looks attheworldof“craft”drinks.VictoriaTrott raisesa L’ÉQUIPE EASTERN et notre magazine. comment toujours heureux derecevoir vos fait ladifférence, etsommes besoins, aveccepetitplusqui trouverez attentifs àvos Nous espérons quevousnous un servicedevolsréguliers. aériennes britan principales compagnies AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. Airways de lapartEastern Grande-Bretagne etd’Europe Bienvenue àtousnosclientsde BIENVENUE THE EASTERN TEAM EASTERN THE aires sur notr niques offrant e service e service

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Tarran MacKenzie celebrating his recent win at Knockhill Make better connections! CONTENTS CONTENTS

34 POWERFUL POWYS 30 STILL LIFE 24 FOLLOW THE LEADER

REGULARS COMPETITION FEATURES

07 NEWS 12 ONLY FOOLS AND What’s happening around Eastern HEARSES Airways destinations Carried away in the spirit of Del Boy and Rodney 11 PRODUCTS Really smart watches and 14 LAND OF THE TROLLS cool cases Early summer hiking in Norway’s Trollheimen National Park 34 EXPLORATION EXPRESS Jonathan Jones discovers his 18 TALE OF TWO CHEFS roots in Mid Wales 37 GOLF BREAK Gino D’Acampo and Maunika WIN an exclusive break Gowardhan talk about their 38 BARE ESSENTIALS at the fabulous new Crowne Plaza passion for their native cuisines Eastern Airways’ network map, Aberdeen Airport hotel passenger information, essential 24 FOOTSTEPS IN THE SAND goings-on and destination guides A look at quirky places to walk around Britain’s coastline – ENERGY LATEST DEVELOPMENTS AND FUTURE PROSPECTS EXTRA IN THE ENERGY WORLD • AUTUMN 2015 starting at Morecambe Bay 48 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: FRESH FIELDS – new development in North Sea RECORD SHOPS – cutting the impact of oil price slump All within easy reach of Eastern 28 NICHE MARKET Airways destinations Our new series on craft drinks begins with a look at micro 50 THE LAST WORD distilleries and brewery taps Harry Pearson gets his teeth into the subject of ferrets…

Fly easternairways.com SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT ii ENERGY EXTRA

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © September 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Arch magazine may be reproduced by any means, without prior International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Workspace, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ written permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH www.gravity-consulting.com Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts e-mail: [email protected] accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither the Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838 publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any liability for Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Print: Buxton Press Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. Front cover: Morecambe Bay © Leadinglights / istock.com [email protected]

To advertise in Eastern Airways Magazine, call Liz Reekie on +44 (0) 7563 796103 / +44 (0) 1434 240947 or email [email protected] Serious about your subsea business? We’re serious about helping you develop your business!

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www.subseauk.com NEWS NEW SERVICE BENEFITS BUSINESS TRAVELLERS Eastern Airways has introduced an Leeds Bradford and the 0820, 1630 and additional afternoon service on its key 1835 flights from Southampton. Sunday business route from Leeds Bradford to services leave Leeds Bradford at 1650 Southampton. and Southampton at 1845. Coliseum, Rome Frequency on the route was increased Kay Ryan, Eastern Airways’ from three to four daily weekday Commercial Director, said: “The returns, from September 14. introduction of the afternoon service CAPTURE THIS allows us to offer more choice and is a Fancy a weekend break that’s A new 1215 departure from quicker, more convenient alternative to just that bit special? Humberside Southampton arrives at Leeds Bradford road or rail.” Airport is offering luxury “Weekends at 1325. The return service from NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS to Capture”. Leeds departs at 1450, arriving in Fast track security channels are Southampton at 1600. offered at both Leeds Bradford and The weekends include a “private Southampton airports for all Eastern jet experience” with a personalised These new flights complement the Airways passengers to avoid any service delivered by specially 0640, 1035 and 1705 services from security search queues. trained cabin crew. Also included are exclusive Bargate, Southampton Leeds city skyscape private check-in, private champagne breakfast in the airport’s Aviator Bar, and complimentary airport parking. 2016 Flights PISA April 29-May 2 MADRID May 6-8 VENICE May 20-22/September 23-25 DUBROVNIK May 27-30 ROME June 3-5 BORDEAUX June 10-12 BARCELONA June 17-19/ September 30-October 2 RENTAL GROWTH BOOMS IN YORK Weekends can be booked York has Britain’s highest rental growth, a popular place to live due to its rich through Humberside Airport Travel according to a survey by CBRE, the ancient history and attractive villages. shop (call 01652 682000) or your commercial property and real estate local travel agent. Flight-only travel “House prices in York increased by three services adviser can be booked through per cent last year and now stand at an the Eastern Airways website, CBRE’s British Living: A Town and City average £228,907. This is 44 per cent www.easternairways.com Compendium reveals the local trends higher than the regional average, and and buyer characteristics across 29 of reflects a buoyant local economy with Britain’s towns and cities. just five per cent unemployment and above average earnings of £35,177. It says that many regions are now once The underlying demand created by again flourishing following the global this demographic, as well as young financial crisis, and highlights how cities professionals, has pushed rents up an such as York have witnessed a significant astonishing 26 per cent last year to stand 26 per cent average rental growth during at £901 pcm.” the last 12 months alone, in comparison with the nation’s four per cent and two Mr Gorman also had positive words per cent across Yorkshire and Humber. for Leeds: “With its thriving economy and distinctive skyline, Leeds is fast Mike Gorman, senior director at blossoming into a hub of commercial and CBRE Leeds, said: “This recent report creative activity. Over the last 20 years, really demonstrates the growth in more jobs have been created in Leeds the residential market in the North of than any other regional city. Leeds is Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux England, in particular York which remains certainly on the up.”

EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE COMPETITION WINNER The winner of our competition in issue 52 to win an exclusive two-night break at Jesmond Dene House Hotel, Newcastle, was Nicolette du Rieu, of Aberdeen.

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Wickwar • Aberdeen • Great Yarmouth • Dubai • Dammam • Singapore Technical excellence: delivered www.alderley.com n Fourteen leading lights in Southampton’s Asian and ethnic community have been put forward for the Unity 101 Community Award. They include campaigners, charity fundraisers and a former Southampton mayor. The award is aimed at inspiring other city residents to give their time for the benefit of the community and is part of Unity 101’s tenth anniversary celebrations. The winner will be announced in public at a show in January. Unity 101 is the south of England’s Asian and ethnic radio station. n Derby is the second best city in the UK in which to make a living, NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS according to a report by credit comparison website TotallyMoney. NEW HOTEL OPENS AT ABERDEEN AIRPORT com. The ranking is thanks to low Aberdeen Airport’s new Crowne Plaza “Aberdeen is a growth market for living costs and a healthy jobs Hotel is open for business! Dominvs Hospitality and following the market. The report based its findings success of the Holiday Inn Express, on wages compared to mortgage The 165-room hotel is one of two brand which opened in May, we are delighted payments, the cost of living and new Crowne Plazas at Eastern Airways to be able to open a deluxe four-star the local jobs market in 64 towns destinations. hotel at Aberdeen International Airport. and cities. Derby was beaten only Just 100 metres from the passenger The Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport by Blackburn, while Sunderland is terminal, the new Crowne Plaza will add a different dynamic and ranked the fourth best in the UK. Aberdeen Airport is just a five-minute quality, complementing the Holiday Inn Cambridge came in third, while stroll from the airport. Express.” London could only manage 26th position and Birmingham was 30th. Business facilities include a conference The second Crowne Plaza opening is n centre with its own entrance and ten the brand’s 251-room four-star offering Best Western Plus Hardwick Hall state-of-the-art meeting rooms, one in Newcastle’s Stephenson Quarter, Hotel, Sedgefield, has been awarded with views of the airport’s runway. Four overlooking the River Tyne. the TripAdvisor Certificate of major business parks are nearby (ABZ, Excellence for the fifth consecutive The seven-storey hotel also boasts a D2, Aberdeen Gateway and Prime year. The four-star hotel is among spa and wellbeing centre, restaurant, Four). The hotel can provide transport just ten per cent of accommodation, banqueting suite, and bar area, as well to and from these as well as the nearby restaurants and attractions listed as a conferencing suite and adaptable heliport. on the international review site to meetings rooms. achieve this accolade. The Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport While the hotel is part of the will also include a gym, complimentary InterContinental Hotels Group, it falls high-speed Wi-Fi, USB charging points under local ownership, which has in bedrooms, a Starbucks cafe and 24- enabled several link-ups with North East hour room service England suppliers, including Fentimans, Sean Brookes, Chief Operating Officer Wylam Brewery and the Lakes Distillery of owner Dominvs Hospitality, said: (see page 30).

Grab a taxi on the mobile app… An innovative “green” taxi firm in Northumberland is investing more than £1 million in new technology as it aims to increase turnover by 50 per cent in the next two years and create 350 jobs in the next three.

Phoenix Taxis is already the largest electric and hybrid taxi company in the Gavin Forster Photography country and it has now bought Drivr award-winning technology that allows people to “hail” and pay for a cab using a mobile app. Cabs on offer include the 100 per cent electric sports car Tesla Model S, and the Lexus GS 300H Hybrid. Managing Director, Alex Hurst, said: “This is a very exciting time for us. Drivr has provided us with a huge vote of confidence by teaming up with us in an exclusive partnership agreement for the whole of the North East of England.” 9 Wilton Advert_180x122_Eastern_Airways_20.08.15.qxp 20/08/2015 17:05 Page 1

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STAND OUT ADVERTISING FROM THE MARKETING CROWD As you’d expect from a company PR that began life making duffel bags and backpacks for the Tel: +44 (0) 1224 452177 Pentagon. Eastpak specialises in E-mail: [email protected] camouflage designs. www.charlieinnes.com However, if all that khaki is just a bit too, well, military for your liking, then for camouflage, substitute Camelange. These new bags come in a grey-plus- grey, turquoise-plus-grey or, if you fancy it, pink-plus-grey “camouflage” design and are available online from Eastpak.com 11 MOTORING

TROTTING OFF IN STYLE Our motoring correspondent Norman Burr bumps into a man who helps people shuffle off this mortal coil. On three wheels – or even five…

Many years ago, when I was young But supposing he’d had a twinkle in his it at all. The hearse is a stretched version and the 70mph motorway speed limit eye to the very end, and would have of the subsequent model, the Rialto, was even younger, I had a flat in Bristol appreciated something different. What minus the oily bits up front, while the tow next to the Co-operative Funeral are the options open to his nearest and vehicle is the Robin’s predecessor, the Service depot. Sometimes I would dearest? In 2015, speed is a no-no, but Regal. chat to the mechanics who maintained how about an almost complete absence Darren’s day job is providing motorcycle the hearses and limousines. At the of speed? Or taste? Or glamour? transport for dealers, race teams time they were using Daimler Majestic and enthusiasts generally, using Majors with mighty 4.5-litre V8 engines Enter designer funerals, and more his Mercedes Sprinter van which, – huge stately-looking vehicles but particularly Darren Abey, proprietor of conveniently, is large enough to very well engineered, so much so Only Fools & Hearses. The 48-year-old, accommodate the Regal and has that one contemporary road test is a great fan of the similarly named TV a tow hitch on the back to pull the described them as the world’s biggest series and in 2012 hit upon the idea hearse. The Regal is in reasonable sportscars. of acquiring one of the Reliant three- wheeled vans from the show and using fettle mechanically, but it wouldn’t stay “It can’t do them any good, driving it to tow a hearse made from – you that way if it had to travel hundreds of around at 15mph all the time,” I guessed it – another Reliant van. miles to and from every funeral. And observed. “It’s not driving there at it wouldn’t do for it to break down: for 15mph that knackers them,” grumped Since then the ensemble has taken Albert to be late for his own funeral the mechanic in reply. “It’s the 120mph centre stage – second only to Albert of would make him look a right plonker. on the M4 on the way back!” course – at some 16 funerals all over the UK. “When you drive up some people In between funerals, Darren uses the van Nowadays, things are much more laugh, some cry, some are just stunned!” for local errands and the grubby yellow sensible, and when Uncle Albert goes to says Darren. “It certainly breaks the ice.” box is a common sight, accompanied his final resting place, he will probably by a cheery “Ah-ooo-Gaaa” from its arrive in a stretched diesel Mercedes. It At the risk of being urged to go and get klaxon whenever he spies someone too is probably capable of 120mph, but some fresh air, I must record that despite he knows. I joined him for a quick spin no-one is ever going to find out. Least of the Mail Online describing the rig as a and immediately discovered that this 12 all Albert. Reliant Robin, there is in fact no Robin in 1973 Regal Supervan III, to give it its full Darren Abey, was “a bit of a smoker” and, although this Only Fools & Hearses one doesn’t burn oil, Darren can create outside JP Dell Funeral the required oily plume at will, simply by Directors to whom he pressing the windscreen washer button. rents out the vehiicle Yes, I know that sounds perverse, but the bit you’re missing is that the washer bottle is filled with diesel, not water, and the outlet pipe is connected not to the washer jets but the exhaust, via a solenoid. One press on the button and – hey presto! – the solenoid opens and the washer pump squirts neat diesel into the exhaust. The result does nothing for rearward visibility (or the environment) and would have embarrassed Rodney no end. When I rode in the van, the system was having an off day. Apparently, bits of debris from the washer bottle sometimes find their way to the solenoid and prevent its valve from seating properly; then the system acquires a mind of its own, firing random squirts of diesel into the exhaust at the most inconvenient moments, like when you are sitting at traffic lights with the window open and a stiff tailwind blowing. Then the cockpit smells like the south end of a northbound Transit on full throttle, with 350,000 miles on

© Guzelian the clock. Despite all this fun and games, Only Fools title, is not very super at all. It’s noisy, bumpy, & Hearses is a serious business proposition decorous polished wooden perimeter. slow and the passenger seat has lost most and Darren knows full well that there are Behind the cab, which is equipped with roof- of its padding, so your backside is wedged some points in a funeral when the joviality lights and a fine collection of LEDs, is room into the steel frame. But the good news is has to stop. Punctuality, courtesy, and dress for photos, regalia, scarves, rosettes – all that you are sitting on leopard-skin fabric – in code are essential ingredients of a funeral the memorabilia of the deceased’s sporting fact the interior is leopard-skin everything, package and, judging by the reaction of his passion, be it football, rugby, tennis or complemented by a furry steering-wheel customers, he has a good grasp of what is whatever. The deep flat sides of the bed can cover and the inevitable furry dice. It’s all needed and when. accommodate yet more mementoes and a neatly done and all gloriously tasteless. suitable trophy can be displayed on or near He’s pleased with the success of his Del Boy the coffin, while to complete the send-off, a Outside there’s a battered matching suitcase funerals, but obviously they are something on the roof, while the yellow paint has been top-notch sound system can play the team of a specialised market. So this year the anthem. “grubbified” with some deftly sprayed black entrepreneurial Darren instigated another smears from a can of Halford’s finest, to give project which he hopes will have a much Sending Albert off in this kind of style is all a that authentic Peckham look. broader appeal. bit out of Del Boy’s league. But I bet Boycie will be on the phone before the year is out. The Banksy touch is continued on the No trace of Trotter Chic this time: he now hearse, but in other respects Albert has has on offer Britain’s first sporting hearse, much the better deal. On his carriage, the an immaculate white stretched flat-bad www.onlyfoolsandhearses.co.uk yellow paint shines and the interior features Transit covered with Astroturf and a suitably www.sportsthemedfunerals.co.uk quality woodwork. He even gets alloy wheels. Depending on how far from Darren’s Fleetwood, Lancashire, base they are, his family will have paid between £650 and £850 to send him off in style. Since Darren reckons the whole rig stands him at around £10,000, it has already paid for itself. Running costs are not high: fuel consumption is at least 40mpg, even though the original 750cc engine has been replaced by a later 850cc unit to give more hearse- lugging power. There’s no road tax to pay because it’s a classic(!), and as neither seat belts nor emissions tests were required back in 1973, the MoT test is a simple affair. The van may not have belts but it does have plenty of emissions. Del Boy’s steed A sporting hearse Olly Davy runs into a spot of snow NORWAY beneath light night skies on an early summer hiking adventure high in the mountains of Norway’s Trollheimen National Park…

14 Snow. The path is invisible under thick stacks of it. The pass we are heading for is shrouded in swirling clouds of the stuff. To keep going we have two options: walk across a frozen lake, or ford the icy torrent pouring from it. Neither is appealing. When my two companions and I decided on an early summer trip to Norway, this is not necessarily what we were expecting. We are in Trollheimen (Home of the Trolls) National Park to enjoy a smidgen of Norway’s 20,000 km trail network by walking The Triangle, a (typically) three-day hike between mountain lodges. The cabins are managed by DNT (the Norwegian Trekking Association) and more than 400 of them offer sleeping accommodation. We plan to camp, but it’s nice to know we have the option of a roof should things turn gnarly. We sit around the fire, gazing towards the snow-dappled mountains swelling above the far shore of Lake Gjevilvatnet. Before we know it, it is Midnight sunset near Joldalshytta midnight but still not dark. Squashed in the tent I use earphones to >>

The first leg of the “triangle” from Gjevilvasshytta to Joldalshytta. Right: the author takes a breather at a remote cabin near the River Svartåa drown out my shuffling comrades with Edvard Grieg. Like many question of pitching the tent. A Thermos of coffee appears and we are British children, the soundtrack to a certain theme park’s adverts shown to a cabin, where a fire is soon blazing. The sun is rising when was my first encounter with the famous Norwegian composer. Apt, we climb into our sleeping bags. It is 2.30 am. because I am as excited as a kid the night before a theme park visit. It is now Day Two and today we must cover only 16 km. Breakfast is Following the trail of red Ts painted on rocks and tree trunks, we leave washed down with animal tales from cabin manager, Carl. “The ones our campsite in high spirits. Before long, woodland gives way to open to watch are musk oxen,” he explains. “Aging males are grumpy and mountain and what was a stream is now a river, roaring under shelves fearless.” Suitably warned we head west, following the River Svartåa, of sculpted ice. Snowcapped peaks rear up on three sides and the under the looming south face of Trollhetta. frozen lake blocks our path. Frustrated, we haul ourselves to the top The valley is dotted with lonely, unoccupied homesteads, cabins that of a mountain to the east, for a while following what we later discover have endured hundreds of winters. Most have torvtak (turf roofs), are wolverine tracks. This muscular carnivore weighs up to 25 kg and constructed with sods on top of birch bark. When wet, the increased takes down reindeer. We hope it does not have a taste for sweaty weight compresses the logs, making the walls more draught-proof. Englishmen. Towards evening, the path veers away from the river, whose Surveying the massive wilderness from 1,400m I feel a lurch gentle banks have become a ravine, and barks herald our arrival somewhere inside; the landscape as defibrillator, shocking my city- at Trollheimshytta, where we meet rosy-cheeked Elin, in gilet and bound soul back to life. We decide to try the triangle anti-clockwise gaiters, bustling her dogs inside. “Summer is late,” she says. “You’re instead. A cross-country scramble, our feet sinking in snow to the the first to attempt the triangle on foot.” thigh, and we pick up the trail again, where a herd of reindeer browse among willow saplings. We camp by the River Slottåa, lulled to sleep by the sound of water. Tomorrow we attempt to complete the circuit. Failure could mean All our attention is focused on spotting the markers poking above missing our flight. the desert of frozen water. A thought occurs to me that, with their red spots, they look like the tailplanes of downed Japanese aircraft. The morning is misty with poor visibility and the next three hours are hell: squelching through an energy-sapping bog. We emerge on a Occasionally our approach disturbs ptarmigan, which flap away marshy plain, where the surrounding summits are obscured but snow squawking. At midnight we are rewarded with a spectacular sunset, pokes underneath the low cloud like petticoats. It seems an ancient the deep red of the heavens reflected in Lake Jølvatnet. place. I would not be surprised to see a diplodocus chewing on the After 14 hours and 30 km we arrive at Jøldalshytta and there is no treetops.

Birch trees and bridges – navigating Trollheimen’s river valleys The sandy shore of Lake Gjevilvatnet

Natural refreshment with Lake Gjevilvatnet in the background

Made it. The final leg of the triangle

Traditional cabin with torvtak roof

At 800m we hit snow again, so walking poles become probes to test the ground ahead. Near Mount Hyttdalskamben, above which two white-tailed eagles ride the updraft, we arrive at a half-buried wooden sign. Lake Gjevilvatnet glints below us. We have made it through the pass. Near the water we are greeted with a cheery “Hei hei!” by two Norwegian campers but decide to push on rather than blight their evening with our aroma. The mess of rocks on the beach is like a giant tray of smashed toffee, turning ankles and sending us stumbling. Finally, the paved road dotted with well-kept holiday homes. There is the beech wood and our first campsite. Elated but out of coffee, we celebrate with boiled Werther’s Originals and slugs of whisky. In this land of expensive government-controlled booze Norwegians have a word for drinking at home before a night out: forspill, literally foreplay. Sadly this particular tipple will lead only to passing out under nylon. The following afternoon we are at Oppdal station inspecting our blisters and waiting for the train to Trondheim. I pet a husky- malamute cross and chat to its owner, Monica, a 22 year-old student. They have been on many adventures together. Once she graduates she plans to walk the length of Norway. Dino will share the load. Monica seems the perfect embodiment of friluftsliv – free air life – reflecting a deep-rooted enchantment with nature. “It must be awful living in a city,” she says. After a taste of the adventure Norway has to offer, I am inclined to agree.

Eastern Airways’ codeshare partner, Widerøe, flies from Aberdeen to Stavanger and Bergen and from Newcastle to Stavanger. Connecting Eastern Airways flights from throughout the UK and onward Widerøe connections to Norwegian destinations. Trondheim is the nearest airport to Trollheimen National Park. 17 18

FOOD Food images ©DavidMunns.Gino D’Acampoimage© Kate Whitaker recipes from Gino’s Veg Italia!publishedbyHodder &Stoughton. avocado stuffed withtomatoes,spring onions,olivesandcapers– Asparagus, ricotta, chilliandparmesantartletsand, next page,grilled be afraid to try new things – you’ll be surprised and be afraidtotrynew things–you’llbesurprisedand enjoy whatyouare doing.Peopleshould also never really makes adifference tobe inaframeofmindto And youshouldonlycookwhen you’re happy–it “I oftensaythatpeopleshouldcook from theheart. tip. Italia, D’Acamporevealed hisnumberonecooking ingredients. Anyonecandoit!”DuringhisdayatBar is easytocookfantasticmealswith basicbuttasty it inanywaythatIcan.wanttoshowpeople so Ilovespreading theword aboutItalianfood,Ido “Food isn’t ajobtome:it is alifestyleandbelief, D’Acampo presented apasta cookingdemonstration. To helpthefourth-generationItalianowners, café BarItalia,oneofSoho’s mostfamouslandmarks. anniversary celebrationsfortherenowned London Italian cuisine,thechefrecently tookpartinthe65th a causehebelievesin.Alwayskeentopromote D’Acampo canbelured outofthehousetosupport at homewithmyfamilythangoout.” prefer toflashyshowbizbashes.I’dmuchprefer to be We havepeopleoverfordinnerparties,whichImuch cook forallofusandwereally lookforward toit. board athome.“Notalways–onaSunday, Jessiewill Surprisingly, heisnotalwaystheoneatchopping (including frequent appearancesonThisMorning). both businessinterests hebalanceswithhisTVwork, opened restaurant, GinoD’Acampo:MyPastaBar; his owningredient range,BontàItalia,andanewly- specialising insimple,traditionalItalianfood.Hehas hisreputationD’Acampo hasslowlyearned for and theirthree children. He nowlivesinHertfordshire withhiswife,Jessica, Cruises. Costa for chef head the was grandfather He wascontinuinghisfamily’s culinarylineage;his to workintheOrchard Restaurant,inHampstead. D’Acampo movedtoLondonin1995,agedjust19, honing histalentsinkitchensacross Europe, as tohisbirthplace(Naples,beexact)butafter The bubblyItalianaccentleavesyouinnodoubt called theUKhome. Me OutofHere –theeffervescent D’Acampohas cook andaswinnerof2009’s I’mACelebrity…Get the majorityofthattime–through hiscareer asTV number oneAnglophilefornearly20years,and Presenter andchefGinoD’AcampohasbeenItaly’s first ever UKtheatre tour… Curran pasta and tomato sauce. Shaun as much as freshly he does cooked Gino D’Acampo loves almost living The charismatic chef celebrity interviews himahead interviews ofhis >> A TALE OF TWO CHEFS: GINO D’ACAMPO “I want to show people that it is easy to cook fantastic meals with basic but tasty ingredients.” delighted at what you can achieve, and the his reality TV stint on I’m a Celebrity… choice has never been greater.” Chomping on bugs and insects is an altogether different taste sensation from LIKE A FEW OTHER Aside from his showbiz career and skills in dining on carbonara and meat balls, but the kitchen, D’Acampo is vocal about his CELEBRITY CHEFS WE that wasn’t a problem for the chef, who passion for living in the “beautiful location” won the public vote. of Hertfordshire. The 38-year-old’s love MIGHT NAME, GINO affair with England began as soon as he “It was an amazing thing to do and it was D’ACAMPO’S SHORT saw a house there more than a decade even better to win. Most people only knew ago. me through daytime TV, so to be on prime CAREER TO DATE HAS time in the jungle was totally different and He is now in his third UK home, bought for took me to a whole BEEN COLOURFUL over half a million new audience. So it pounds. It was, He made his name on BBC’s Ready Steady Dates for Gino’s Italian Escape Live! tour was great that they as he laughs, “in Cook and, more recently, has regularly near Eastern Airways destinations: voted for me. But a bad state and appeared on ITV’s This Morning. In January October 30 – York Barbican food is my passion needed a lot of 2011, he cooked gammon and Italian mushy November 2 – Cambridge Corn Exchange and I missed it work”. But the peas completely naked on the show the day November 3 – Wolverhampton Civic Hall terribly; talking work has mostly after its success at the National Television November 5 – Aberdeen Music Hall about it, buying it, been done, and Awards. November 6 – Tyne Theatre, Newcastle cooking it.” D’Acampo would November 7 – Ipswich Regent Since 2011, D’Acampo and Melanie Sykes happily talk about Tellingly, D’Acampo have hosted daytime cookery chat show Let’s his house all says the biggest Do Lunch With Gino and Mel. The show has day. The enthusiasm with which he talks lesson was not about his own endeavours, aired for four series as well as three special about most things is infectious, but his but what he discovered once he returned series at Christmas. new home is his absolute favourite topic to England. “I suppose one of the of conversation. “I love it!” he says with most important things I learnt from the But life hasn’t always been plain sailing a smile. “We have a big garden; there’s a experience was that life goes on without for him – after his appearance on I’m a swimming pool, and we keep chickens. I me – my family, my business, they could Celebrity… it emerged that, aged 21, he had love them. I love getting up in the morning all carry on without me being there. It was served two years in gaol for burgling the and collecting the eggs.” a big lesson for me.” house of singer Paul Young and stealing his guitar collection and a platinum disc. He was But it’s not just his four walls that What the jungle experience did for sentenced under his real name, Gennaro. keep D’Acampo in England. “We have D’Acampo most significantly, though, was wonderful, friendly neighbours, the expose him to the point that over 15 years While out in the jungle, D’Acampo and his schools are excellent for the kids and there since he made England home, his celebrity I’m A Celebrity co-star, Stuart Manning, were are nice shops, too. I go out riding my profile has never been bigger. charged with animal cruelty by Australian mountain bike at the weekend. There’s lots police after unlawfully killing a rat. “That was the best thing. It meant from for us to do.” the moment I got out, I have been so D’Acampo is the current holder of six Yet for all of his expertise in the kitchen, busy, busier than ever. And long may it Guinness World Records, most of which he many people recognise D’Acampo for continue!” set or broke live on Let’s Do Lunch with Gino And Mel: • September 2011 – Guinness World Record for “The most ravioli made in two minutes”; 22. This record was later broken by fellow Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo. In 2013, D’Acampo regained the record with 32. • August 2012 – Guinness World Record for “The most chocolate truffles made in two minutes”. • August 2012 – Guinness World Record for “Running across custard for the longest time”. • December 2013 – Guinness World Record for “The most bottles of champagne opened in one minute”; seven. • December 2013 – Guinness World Record for “The most Christmas crackers broken in one minute by a team of two”, with Keith Lemon. • December 2013 – Guinness World Record with Melanie Sykes for “The most jumpers put on in one minute” by managing 11 in one minute. 20 A TALE OF TWO CHEFS: MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN

The rise and rise of the celebrity chef is a recent phenomenon that pretty much mirrors the decline over a similar period of the traditional bookshop. But Stan Abbott is happy to find examples of each working together and in rude health in rural Northumberland, where he meets author and cook Maunika Gowardhan… © Helen Cathcart

“Now that I live in Britain I cook the very same curries and reminisce about the food and emotions of Mumbai.” >> 21 For a couple of decades now the event, but she was soon telling me all about Khoo, who conjures innovative delights from doomsayers have predicted that the the spiced smoky aubergine dish she’d her Little Paris Kitchen. Internet will spell the end of some of our prepared specially. For this event was to But why make comparisons? Maunika is most enduring institutions, from Sunday be a talk by Maunika Gowardhan, first-time clearly her own woman with very much her newspapers, to travel agents to bookshops. author of Indian Kitchen – Secrets of Indian own ideas and therein lies her allure. On the Yet fine examples of all three still endure, Home Cooking. little podium, she immediately spells out because at the end of the day quality and OK, I may have implicitly described Maunika her USP: Indian food as your Indian mum customer experience do still count. as a “celebrity chef”, which I guess may be cooked it. An example of an independent bookshop an arguable point as you won’t have seen With presence and passion she describes that continues to thrive in the Amazon Age is her as yet on your TV screen. You may, the genesis of her extensive range of recipes. Forum Books, in the historic Northumberland however, have spotted her on Jamie Oliver’s Although she now – in the way of a 21st market town of Corbridge, perhaps best online channel, Food Tube, or caught up century citizen of the world – splits her time known for its Roman fort. with her at the celebrated Abergavenny between Newcastle, London and Mumbai, Food Festival; and I strongly suspect that her I was a little puzzled as I looked at my it is the last of these, unsurprisingly, that has personality, presence and extensive culinary electronic diary, which, I confess, has inspired the dizzying breadth of her Indian repertoire mean that it’s only a matter of time replaced its paper counterpart to the culinary knowledge. before she acquires the celebrity tag that undoubted loss of W H Smith. It said, simply goes with a TV persona. She tells us how she learned all she knew “Corbridge book signing, 1700”, but I was from watching her mother and grandmother struggling to remember who was actually It’s standing room only, not at Forum Books, cook meals full of flavour – sharing the great going to be signing what, later on that week. but at the local café now commandeered for regional diversity of the country’s cuisine with the event. Maunika has commanded quite Forum’s survival bucks a trend, with owner friends and marking festivals like Diwali. a turn-out, perhaps boosted by word that Helen Stanton recording sales growth over Helen has been busy with the aubergines “Now that I live in Britain I cook the very the four years since she bought the shop. A and other recipes from Maunika’s collection. same curries and reminisce about the food year ago she opened a second, children’s and emotions of Mumbai.” branch and cites a busy events programme Maunika is no loud and brash Gordon and interesting stock range among her Ramsay or Keith Floyd: if we’re going to talk Such memories would include sorting secrets for success. To that I will add an chef clichés, she’s more in the confidently out the shopping with her mother as she engaging personality: I may have felt a bit friendly and engaging mould of Lorraine planned what she would cook with the daft having to phone to find out about the Pascal or Tom Kerridge, or maybe Rachel ingredients she had bought. It’s clear that

Recipes from Indian Kitchen published by Hodder & Stoughton. Image © Helen Cathcart

22 Maunika learned from the best, for the extent I am now and am only sorry for not having of the recipes she was taught is not just discovered it for myself sooner! wide in a regional sense, but encompasses Catching up with Maunika post-Rasa, I’m specialities like Indian street food (“probably curious to know more about how everything mum’s way of getting us to stop eating fits together: “I still travel to India for work roadside chaat or ‘junk food’ as she would call it”). about two or three times a year,” she says. As her mother shared her knowledge with her, “A lot of the recipes I have are from my family’s so she shares hers with hospital consultant collection, which has been passed down husband, Bharat, and son Johann. But she through the years, and which I have evolved is also driven to share it with the widest for a contemporary lifestyle and I continue to possible audience, via her website (90,000 hits travel to discover more about Indian cuisine. a month), through her cookery classes and “I have always travelled so I adjust to new tuition, her writing, and now through her book. places quite easy. The hustle and bustle of I manage to pop a couple of questions into London is very similar to Mumbai so it’s like the Q & A session, from which I learn that home from home. I split my time between she strongly recommends MMM Foods, London, Newcastle and Mumbai and the food in Newcastle’s Grainger Market, not least scene is very different in both countries. I enjoy Indian Kitchen – Secrets of Indian Home because they are happy to sell fresh spices in this diversity. Cooking, is published by Hodder & smaller quantities than the industrial ones you “When I get some down time I read, which I Stoughton at £25. sometimes encounter at Asian supermarkets. take advantage of when on long travels. Any It is beautifully illustrated and includes I also ask her which is her favourite Indian other spare time I will spend with my family.” an invaluable section on ingredients restaurant in the city, to which her unhesitant For family life, after all, is really her inspiration. for Indian cooking. It divides into five But how would she fancy sharing her recipes reply is Rasa, on Queen Street, because of themes, intriguingly but descriptively with a TV audience? Could she make it to the its focus on a range of vegetarian and other entitled Hungry, Lazy, Indulgent, dishes from Kerala. ranks of celebrity chefs? Celebratory and Extras. Having tended to frequent another (very “Yes, I’d love the experience!” she says good) one when in that part of town, I wasn’t candidly. Spiced smoky aubergine coming to a familiar with it. On Maunika’s recommendation, screen near you sometime soon! 24 24

Michael Luckett LEISURE COASTAL WALKS SHIFTING SANDS begins on Abbott the begins Stan shifting sands of Morecambe Bay… the places quirkier to walk on more than coastline. ofbeautiful 5,000miles In celebration ofthisambition, we’ll taking be an occasional at look some of circumnavigate the entire British mainland, and afewmajor islands besides. world rival –aseries offormally designated national trails together, that will, in place, Great have Britain will along distance footpath, almost without inScotlandpeople actively promoting all these “ones” one. When are finally Wales got one in2014;England should have one by 2020;and there are I’ve long been fascinated by two unerringly being the more horrific for being recorded on straight bridleways, hatched green on the a mobile phone while rescuers tried in vain large-scale Ordnance Survey map that cov- to locate them. ers the Furness area of Cumbria and North Lancashire. They stretch across the widest These days nobody really has to cross the river estuaries, whose waters feed the vast sands: you can take a rather circuitous drive expanse of Morecambe Bay, suggesting around the tidal inlets or, better, cross them that all you have to do is set your compass in a trice by train, on viaducts built defiantly for the opposite shore and set out walking straight across the sands. But time was across the sands. when you and your horse would have had to take your chances with an incoming tide that Of course to do so would at best be hazard- could outrun or surround you. To mitigate Cedric on the pier at the idyllic little Cum- ous and, at worst, signing one’s own death the risk, an official Guide to the Sands first warrant. Not without reason do these shifting brian resort of Arnside. We might have been enjoyed royal appointment back in 1548, in awaiting the Queen herself, rather than just sands enjoy a reputation for danger that the year of the death of Catherine Parr, last her Guide to the Sands (MBE), such seems goes before them. wife of Henry VIII and hailing from Kendal, to be the anticipation among a crowd of a Most notoriously, in the winter of 2014, at around these parts. There’s always been a hundred or two. Most of them, it seems, are least 21 illegal Chinese migrants hired by guide in post throughout the succeeding ardent followers of the geocaching craze, for Triad gang-masters drowned when they centuries. this is their “event”. Rather fewer of us are were cut off by the incoming tide while pick- there just for a walk, undiluted by hunting by Today’s incumbent and the 25th such guide ing cockles. sat nav for hidden objects. is Cedric Robinson, one-time shrimper, who, Two years previously, a father and son astonishingly, has been safely ushering folk I’d been warned that Cedric would not stand drowned when they became disorientated in across the Bay for more than half a century. I on ceremony on arrival and, indeed, when fog as the tide rose around them, their plight find myself waiting for the heralded arrival of we spot a lithe, wiry, bronzed figure of man >>

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www.bristowgroup.com looking a good 20 years younger than his Bay. The book also instances the loss of four decades and more, an immediate shift OUR ENEMY OUT such other large objects as Range Rovers from idle shuffle into top-speed walking and boats. Today, however, Cedric’s mate’s mode is called for. HERE AT THE HEART tractor looks safe enough, standing on the far shore of the Kent channel. Like the children of Hamelin we form a long OF THIS YELLOW snake behind Cedric as he heads, ash stick Now is the big moment at which we must in hand, initially southwest along the shore. ford the river: it is, indeed, knee-deep as We have travelled a mile or so, first along the OCEAN, IS QUICKSAND. promised, and the current is surprisingly promenade, and then along the shoreline to strong, so it requires a certain amount of what I take to be a geocache hiding place, concentration not to loose one’s footing. It as fellow walkers begin scrambling up the takes probably 20 minutes for everyone to low cliff. After a pause for refreshment, we make it across and the youngsters celebrate finally head out to sea. by turning cartwheels on the sands. Among our number is Paddy Dillon – the ac- We are now on the home straight, but it is complished writer of guidebooks to walking still some time and much further wading the world over and a resident of Furness, so before we finally reach the first tussocks of no stranger to crossing the sands. He recalls marsh grass, marking the approach of the that Cedric used to begin his crossings coastline. I’m starting to flag, and Cedric further to the south. But one morning, follow- is miles ahead. Small wonder – he needs ing a stormy night, as he headed for the safe to be on hand to join Olive, selling books route he’d marked out only the day before, and collecting tips at Kents Bank station. A he was greeted only by a crescendo of noise kite-surfer tracks back and forth on the river that sounded like a fleet of powerboats. It channel, reminding us that there are other turned out to be the sound of collapsing ways to enjoy the sands. sandbanks as the River Kent was in the pro- Cedric Robinson But to cross them, you need Cedric: “With cess of finding a completely new course. role, however grand it may sound, falls far the unpredictable weather patterns and As we make our own crossing, it is soon short of it, being unchanged at £15 a year frequent changes, it would need a miracle for apparent that the channel of the Kent is no- since Tudor times, though he and his former any lay person to cross in safety,” he attests. where near the route shown on the OS map, beauty queen wife, Olive, enjoy free use of “The rains now come with a vengeance, the but much more centrally located in More- the cottage that comes with the job, at Kents like of which we have never seen before, cambe Bay. We had been warned that we’d Bank, near Grange-over-Sands. In view of with no let-up from stronger winds and need to wade knee-deep at times on the this, says Terry Marsh, who invited me on higher tides. crossing, and as we reach the first stretch the trip and wrote an MA thesis on the “sand “That is a dangerous combination and brings of water to be forded, the children in the big pilots”, we may look favourably on giving sudden, dramatic changes, not just in the group enthusiastically head for the deepest Cedric a tip upon our safe arrival at Kents rivers but to the full extent of the Bay. Vast bits. After maybe another 45 minutes, we Bank. areas of quicksand can form, where previ- are pretty much in the centre of Morecambe ously it had been safe.” Bay. It is a fabulous late June day: we’d been Besides admiring followers like Terry and warned to expect the air to be chilly on the Paddy, Cedric also has helpers, one with a I reflect on these words as I drop my tip Bay, no matter the ambient temperature, but tractor and trailer, who assist him in mapping in the box and buy the book. I had always today the wind is light and a warming sun a safe route ahead of what, these days, are yearned to make this walk but never quite shimmers on the sands. essentially leisure walks. Cedric marks these got it together. I’m heartened, then, to read routes with branches of laurel, alder or yew. the words of Sir Chris Bonington, who wrote On the seaward south-westerly horizon, the He coaxes these deep into the sand, so a foreword to the book, having crossed the light plays tricks, as a silvery line divides they’ll withstand the comings and goings of Bay with Cedric for the first time as recently sand and sky, looking for all the world like an a few tides before finally being washed away. as 2012. It has taken our party about four advancing wave: it is just a distant sand- hours to make the trek but I am gratified bank. To the south, the nuclear power station Our enemy out here at the heart of this yel- to have done so at a younger age than Sir at Heysham sits like a giant block of Lego low ocean, is quicksand. The thing about Chris, who does – after all, and unlike me – and I fancy I can maybe just about make out quicksand, explains Cedric, is that it tends live in Cumbria. Blackpool Tower in the far distance. But the to be very deceptive. Only when you start to finest view is to the north, where the Kent move about on it, will it begin the inexorable estuary leads the eye directly into the heart process of swallowing you up. And this it will of the Lake District fells. We feel like tiny little indeed do with gluttony. Arnside is about 90 minutes from Durham ants in the middle of the Sahara, staring at Tees Valley Airport, with Eastern Airways In his book, Time and Tide, Cedric recalls the the distant Atlas. Indeed, the sands have flights from Aberdeen loss of a drilling rig in the sands back in the sometimes been dubbed “the wet Sahara”. late 60s. It was part of a project to explore Time and Tide, by Cedric Robinson, is A minimum wage there may be, but Cedric’s the idea of a bridge or barrage across the published by Great Northern Books

27 27 MICRO DISTILLERIES & BREWERY TAPS

The origins of the trend can CRAFT DRINKS probably be traced back more than 40 years to the formation, in 1971, of CAMRA, the Campaign for WELL VERSED IN Real Ale. But it’s undoubtedly true that, in recent years, the consumer CASKS AND ALE appetite for quality drinks of That the absolute number of pubs in the premises to the side and rear of the distinctive provenance has been UK is in steady decline is undoubtedly pub, he explains that, while the brewery matched by the desire of a growing true. It’s less clear, however, whether did open here, this is actually Sonnet craft industry not just to satisfy that there’s any single main cause for this 43’s third brewery tap. I had already trend. Nor do the statistics tell the story visited the Lambton Worm, on the A167 appetite, but to further stimulate the of the industry’s innovators who have (the old A1) between Chester-le-Street desire for such “craft” products. reinvented the how and the where of and Birtley, where I had found one of selling drinks. those rather soulless, cavernous old There may have been a slight time establishments utterly transformed A favourite scapegoat is the pub into a characterful bar with live music, lag, but right now labels like “locally company, caricatured as rewarding a attractive restaurant and quirky hotel. sourced”, “artisan-produced”, pub’s success with demands for an ever “sustainably cultivated” and “from greater share of the profits. But these That formula, says Michael, has been companies would argue they are being repeated at the White Lead gastro- a traditional recipe” are as much squeezed by the supermarkets and a restaurant and bar, in Hebburn, near in demand from people who want drift toward socialising at home rather Jarrow. Brewery tap number three, to know what they are drinking as than the pub. the Clarence Villa, employs a slightly different formula, more geared to Wherever the truth may lie, there’s no they have become among those its location, trading as the Italian doubting that if ownership of all aspects Farmhouse, recreating a rustic Latin conscious of what they are eating. of the pub and the brewery are in the feel that is also replicated in one of the same hands, then both must surely win. outlets at Sunderland’s Roker Hotel, The result has been a virtuous circle Hence the rise of the “brewery tap” in belonging to Sonet 43’s sister company, the micro-brewing sector. of niche producers bringing new Tavistock Hospitality. products to market and a public This need not simply mean a brewery Sonnet 43 acquired its intriguing name in the loft above a pub: Sonnet 43 is eager for more new sensations. from the celebrated Victorian poet, towards the smaller end of the micro- Elizabeth Barrett Browning, who was brewery scale, producing only around Combine this with tax breaks for born Elizabeth Moulton-Barrett and 2,000 gallons of beer a week, but a big raised at nearby Coxhoe Hall. She was micro-breweries and a relaxation proportion of that output is sold in the disinherited after marrying fellow poet brewery’s three pubs. in the rules on distillation and Robert Browning, moving to Italy, where the result is an increasingly rich There are two simple observations. she died young, from lung disease. diversity of drinks to whet the Firstly there are no middlemen to inflate Her most famous work, Sonnet 43, is palate. costs. And secondly, Sonnet 43’s one of those poems with which many arrangement has created from failing of us have at least some familiarity. It pubs, three outlets that are now vibrant begins… From designer teas and coffees, to features of their communities. organically brewed soft drinks, to How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. The entrepreneur behind Sonnet 43 is I love thee to the depth and breadth and height beers and ciders to biodynamic Mark Hird, a man whose previous career My soul can reach, when feeling out of sight wines and an abundance of local taught him most that there is to know For the ends of being and ideal grace. about the hospitality trade. But it was gins and designer spirits – there Drawing on the national, indeed after his wife bought him a three-day international profile of this former may never have been a better time course in brewing at Sunderland’s Beer daughter of its locale is a clever Lab that Mark crafted the plans for his to enjoy a drink in Britain, be it statement of marketing intent, for own brewhouse and brewery tap. alcoholic or strictly sober. Sonnet 43’s ambition extends well Sonnet 43 has come a long way in less beyond North East England. than three years since it opened at the We’ll be taking a look at some of “We supply our own pubs, but we former Clarence Villa pub on the edge of these new tastes in Eastern Airways also supply as far north as Edinburgh the former mining village of Coxhoe, a and as far south as Manchester,” Magazine, beginning this issue few miles from Durham City. with visits to a new distillery and a says Michael. “A lot of breweries As head brewer Michael Harker shows try to aim for a specific market. We micro-brewery that’s breathing new me round the tight little brewery have three traditional beers and a 28 life into tired old pubs… couple of American craft beers. We try to be a bit more experimental – we wanted to appeal to as many different demographics as possible.” At the core of the Sonnet 43 offer (“for the love of beer”) are five “core” beers (there were six but “we wanted to produce more pale ale”), including Steam Beer, India Pale Ale, Brown Ale and Bourbon Milk Stout. “We also produce at least one ‘guest beer’ once a month,” says Michael. And these can be quite eccentric, featuring coffee, mead or champagne flavours. His Insular Art beer, produced for the Durham visit of the Lindisfarne Gospels, won a CAMRA award. Michael is unambiguous in his views on the workings of the pub trade: “We deal with a lot of tied chains now and we know how pubs get screwed by their ties. They are told what they can buy.” Notwithstanding, he sees Sonnet 43’s future in supplying both its own extending collection of brewery taps and the wider trade, based on its firm foundation of quality and strong identity. “We can’t grow any further on the site we’re on,” he says. “The intention long term is to have a 20 or 30-barrel plant and Mark would like to have eight to 12 outlets.” So the search is on for suitable premises in the area that could, in principle, also accommodate a visitor attraction. At the Lambton Worm I already discovered a visitor attraction in the shape of Mark’s extensive collection of autographed photographs. The walls of the excellent modern British restaurant are adorned with them, including many of the biggest names in British and American politics and showbiz. If the food wasn’t so good (it is very good) they would merit a visit in their own right. As indeed does the refurbishment of the 14 rococo en suite rooms, accomplished impressively for less than £200,000. http://sonnet43.com www.thelambton.com RIGHT: Michael Harker with one of the brewery’s distinctive pink casks: “They’re much less likely to disappear.”

29 MICRO DISTILLERIES & BREWERY TAPS BREWING UP A WINNER

When Stan Abbott last visited the intended site of England’s newest whisky distillery, it called for a good imagination. He found himself delighted with the transformation when he returned earlier this summer…

The rising tide of interest in “artisan- The restored buildings house all the produced” drinks is such that there seems functions of the distillery, including the to be something of a dearth of attractive generously proportioned shop, the stills for folksy old buildings to house and whisky, gin and vodka, and the warehouse complement a manufacturing process that in which the first casks of Lakes Malt will must draw heavily on both tradition and mature. innovation. This is an operation very much geared to No steel hangar on an industrial estate at the abundant tourist market on the doorstep the edge of town for the Lakes Distillery, and so Paul and his team have woven a however. Rather, the team behind this bold suitable back story – featuring tales of illicit venture searched long and hard to find the The buiidings before restoration and, above, distillation in the Lakeland fells – to engage right combination of suitable buildings and outdoor tables at the new bistro visitors as they learn about the processes ideal water source before settling on a near behind creating the spirits. We are taken on derelict Victorian “model farm”, disused for We’re privileged that Paul Currie – the man journey down the Derwent, from its source 20 years. Fortuitously it was also just a few whose vision of a brand new English whisky at Sprinkling Tarn, high above Borrowdale, metres from the River Derwent, not far from has driven this project – is our tour guide and via the lakes of Derwentwater and its exit from Bassenthwaite Lake on its today. Paul has form when it comes to Bassenthwaite. journey towards the Irish Sea. creating distilleries, being the man behind Paul proudly shows us the wash and spirit the award-winning Arran Distillery, and he’s Bringing the farm buildings back to life whisky stills, affectionately named Susan keen to demonstrate how original features produced a planning win-win for the Lake and Rachel after his own and Chairman have been retained in the buildings. District National Park Authority, which Nigel Mills’s wives. Mills is the Newcastle would have been most unlikely to approve a The Victorians were keen on a four-leaf entrepreneur whose backing has been new build on this scale. clover quatrefoil design, which appeared in critical in realising the project. I was eager to see how the conversion had the masonry and this has been Among innovations of note are the use been achieved, my abiding memory being enthusiastically adopted by the distillery – stainless steel for some of the condensers, of red doors. Well, the red has gone and the more than 30 such designs can be found on rather than the more traditional copper, and transformation is really quite remarkable, and in the various buildings and the four experimentation with different types of cask with the predominant colour now a rather “foils” are said to represent faith, hope, luck for maturation. Were this Scotland these more subdued and sophisticated grey. and love. would have to be made from oak, but being

30 30 or so miles from the border means that Paul and his team will be able to experiment with other woods, such as SHORTS… birch, acacia and maple. At present, however, the spirit is being matured in high COCKTAILS AND ALES n quality Spanish oak, oloroso sherry Harviestoun Brewery has launched Lowland Glen Amber, a seasoned casks. new amber ale brewed exclusively for Marks and Spencer, at Harviestoun, Clackmannshire, in the heart of Scotland. With its Although you can buy the innovative The deep copper colour and malty peach aroma, the beer’s high One blended whisky, you’ll have to bide Simcoe hop content gives it a fruity finish with malty undertones your time awaiting the single malt. No such (“great for barbecuses and curries”). The brewery is also known restraint is needed in respect of the Lakes for its collaboration with Orkney’s Highland Park whisky distillery, Gin, however. Remember, there may be in which Ola Dubh ale is matured in whisky casks. other Lake District gins, but only this one is n distilled here, using not just locally grown If you live in Leeds, Birmingham or Newcastle (or indeed juniper but also a botanicals mix that Manchester, Chester or Alderley Edge) then you really should includes bilberry, heather and make a visit to The Botanist. I sampled the Newcastle Botanist, meadowsweet. The result is a truly in a distinctive glazed dome overlooked – closely – by no less a memorable gin, with which I would choose drink connoisseur than Lord Earl Grey himself from his towering a “local” Fentiman’s tonic (recommended city centre monument. 1:1, with no fruit!). On one level The Botanist is a very clever way to persuade you Customarily, distillery tours disgorge their to part with a lot of money for a drink, but the atmosphere and participants conveniently into the distillery allure are so infectious you can easily forget that. And given the shop, but here there is another very numbers of your fellow drinkers, you certainly aren’t the only one attractive alternative. Bistro at the Distillery in that frame of mind. has been conceived and executed by the I enjoyed an excellent saffron gin but the range of botanical celebrated Newcastle restaurateur, Terry cocktails, craft beers and ales and quality wines and champagnes Laybourne, who has installed Andrew is mind-boggling. Add well trained serving staff and a varied Beaton, formerly of the acclaimed Miller range of bar meals and nibbles, including favourites like Scotch Howe, Windermere. eggs and pork crackling, and what’s not to like? SA The former farm dairy is now home to a ubiquitous dining offer, ranging from lunches and afternoon snacks to a supper WHISKY WHISKY BEER GIN n n Suffolk brewery, St Peter’s, n Newcastle’s first gin offering that combines high quality with The Norfolk-based English has teamed up with the distillery has opened at competitive pricing. Whisky Company’s Chapter 14 has been named Best English Whisky Company Bealim House, formerly I was pleased to note that at least half the Whisky from Europe in Jim to produce a whisky beer. the Fluid sports bar, in the clientèle on a busy bistro evening were Murray’s 2015 Whisky Bible. The Saints Whisky Beer shadow of the city walls. The clearly from the area, reinforcing the sense is made using the same £600,000 venture has been n that the distillery is already part of the local The market for investing peated malt that is used at St helped by the well respected landscape. The focus is emphatically on in and collecting rare whisky George’s Distillery, Norfolk. new Durham Distillery. It’s local ingredients and I particularly enjoyed continues to boom, with Once fermented, a portion of described as “a London my starter of trout cured in Lakes Gin, with a record number of rare Chapter 9 Whisky is added gin with lots of elderflower pickled cucumber and citrus fruits, which I bottles sold at auction in the to the beer, creating a peated notes”. followed up with grilled fresh hake, with UK during the first half of “perfectly balanced” beer crushed peas, tartare sauce and chips – 2015, according to figures with smoky overtones. The published by whisky analyst, WHISKY fish, chips and mushy peas par excellence! beer has an ABV of 4.8 per n Single malt whisky broker and investment cent and will initially be sold I would strongly recommend combining a distilling is poised to return experts Rare Whisky 101. in 150 Waitrose stores across visit to the distillery with a stay at another to Edinburgh after a 90-year the UK as well as through part of the Mills empire, the Trout Hotel, at The first six months of the absence. Former Master Ocado. nearby Cockermouth, perhaps also taking year saw 20,638 bottles of Distiller for The Macallan, in a whizz round Wordsworth’s Birthplace single malt Scotch whisky David Robertson, is behind Museum. sold in the UK on the open BEER WHISKY plans to open the Holyrood market, an increase of 5,374 n Lakeland brewer, Tirril, has Park Distillery, a £2 million A recently approved planning application bottles – 35 per cent up on created a suite of single malt boutique micro-distillery for more car parking and extended hours at the same period last year. spirits by distilling three of its and visitor experience at the the distillery suggests that the public at Compared to the first half ales – Red Barn, Academy Engine Shed building in the large shares my enthusiasm for this bold of last year, the value of and Old Faithful. Each is five heart of the city. and exciting venture. collectables sold at auction times hand-distilled in small grew 33.8 per cent to more The Lakes Distillery is about 75 miles from batch copper stills – which, at than £4.6m. Newcastle Airport just 200 litres, are believed to be the smallest commercial www.lakesdistillery.com stills in the world. www.trouthotel.co.uk MICRO DISTILLERIES & BREWERY TAPS WALKING THE ALE TRAIL… Victoria Trott tracks down real ale at Mumbles, in Swansea Bay…

About an hour’s drive west of Cardiff, on the southern edge of the Gower Peninsula, is the former oyster-fishing village of Mumbles. Swansea Bay’s most desirable place to live (property here is the most expensive of any seaside town in Wales) is usually best known as the home of Hollywood actress Catherine Zeta Jones. But now, instead of celeb-spotters, there’s a new breed of visitor in town: beer connoisseurs. For Mumbles is the place to go in Wales for real ale. At the west end of the promenade, past the pastel-coloured houses, B&Bs and

The Pilot interior and exterior and its Wrecker dark bitter, exclusive to the pub

restaurants, is The Pilot: 2014 Richard brews twice a fortnight and “after Wales CAMRA (Campaign much trial and error” now offers four for Real Ale) Pub of the Year. ales – Gold (4.4% golden beer “our most Originally opened in 1849 and popular offering”), Black Storm (4.5% stout), named after the type of small Revolver (pale ale, brewed with a different boat that led larger ships into hop each time) and Wrecker (5% dark bitter) Swansea docks through the – which are served only in this pub, along bay’s hazardous sandbanks, with a variety of bought-in ciders. The Pilot was bought in 2012 “I think that real ale is becoming increasingly by Richard and Jo Bennett popular because there is so much variety,” and has fast become one says Richard. “To be called real ale the beer of the area’s most popular has to undergo a secondary fermentation watering holes. in a cask but there are only four ingredients Says Richard: “We don’t have and you can do so much with them. There a background in running pubs are currently around eight breweries in but Jo, who was a pharmacist, the Swansea area alone. Also there is always wanted to work behind a regular innovation and fashions such as bar, so she did one night a week at ‘craft kegging’, which involves artificially The Park Inn, a traditional Mumbles carbonating the beer.” pub noted for its Real Ale, and loved Although the pub gets plenty of visitors it. We decided we wanted to set up a from elsewhere, thanks to its appearance brewery, so we bought this pub and put in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide, the front- the brewery behind it. I went on a four-day room-size bar – whose walls are hung with brewing course at York and we haven’t paintings by local artists – is filled with looked back.” regulars of all ages as well as dog walkers and a couple of ladies who have dropped in for a coffee. So to what does Richard attribute the pub’s success? He says: “According to one of the judges talking off the record to a friend of mine, our secret weapon was Jo – who they considered to be the ideal barmaid.” Just off the main road in the village centre on the ground floor of a Victorian semi- detached is Mumbles Ale House, the first (and currently the only) micropub in Wales. According to the Micropub Association, founded in 2012, a micropub is “a small free house, which listens to its customers, mainly serves cask ales, promotes conversation, shuns all forms of electronic entertainment Locals get together at the Ale House (right) with Karen (below) and dabbles in traditional pub snacks.” behind the bar The Ale House, which has room for around 50 people if they spill onto the pavement terrace, is the passion of Rod Undy and Karen McGeoch. Over the bar, which Rod built himself with the help of a local carpenter, Karen tells me: “Rod used to live in Gloucestershire, near the first micropub in the South-West, and he loved the sense of community and simplicity, which he was looking to replicate when he moved here. After converting the premises ourselves in the space of four weeks, we opened in August 2014 to coincide with the Swansea Bay Beer and Cider Festival and have been overwhelmed by the positive response. Patrons consider us a ‘hidden treasure’ as we’re small and off the beaten track.” Rod, who was an engineer, even designed a cooling system to ensure that the ale was served at its traditional temperature of 12 degrees. Karen, who has done the Cellarman’s course at the Wye Valley Brewery, continues: “We serve Real Ale and ciders, which we source from all over the UK, thanks to the network of contacts that Rod has built up. Our patrons can decide what they want via a typed list, which runs to several sheets of paper, and which we update regularly. The only food we sell is pork scratchings and pork pies.” As you’d expect in a small community, The Pilot, The Park Inn and the Ale House all work together to ensure that they haven’t got the same ales on tap at the same time. And you never know, you might find yourself raising a glass alongside Catherine Zeta Jones and her husband Michael Douglas. www.thepilotofmumbles.co.uk www.mumblesalehouse.co.uk www.swanseacamra.org.uk Eastern Airways flies to Cardiff from Aberdeen and Newcastle 34

EXPLORATION EXPRESS MID WALES CROSSING BORDERS landscape around Welshpool Powys… innorthern Jonathan Jones Perhaps more startlingisthefactthat, Evans. and onmymother’s side,Daviesand also Benyon,onmyfather’s side, where you’llnotonlyfindJones,but inmyfamilytree,other surnames is undoubtedlyWelsh. Considerthe indeed Broughty Ferry, myancestry passport thattheplaceofmybirthis However, althoughitstatesonmy searching forhisWelsh roots. of astoryaboutmancalledJones, expect toread inthefirst paragraph These aren’t perhapsthewords you’d inBroughtyborn Ferry, inDundee. I’ve alwaysregarded myselfasaScot, heads for Wales insearch ofhisroots and discovers the beautiful more twisting. and wider, andtheroads narrower and more undulating, thevalleysdeeper greener,countryside seemedtoturn It mightbemyimagination,but the part oftheworldthisis. boyfriend, todiscoverwhatabeautiful our daughter, and thedaughter’s Wales, accompaniedbymywife, when crossing theborder into easier tounderstandmydelight, With thisinmind,it’s probably Wales before. this visit,I’dneveractuallybeento despite theseWelsh routes, before and Newtown.We hadchosenthis Montgomery, betweenWelshpool at PenllwynLodges, three milesfrom We were bookedtostayinalogcabin landscape onlyaddedtothisfeeling. on aforeign holiday. Theundulating were stillintheUK,wewere actually give theimpression that,althoughwe Welsh andEnglish,whichhelpedto The signpostswere nowin both as agoodplacetorelax and unwind. all, chosenthelocationofourholiday widening onourfaces.We had,after through withthesmilesgradually and hamlets,whichwepassed Big townsgavewaytosmallervillages Powis Castle, Welshpool

location because of its proximity to staggering views over valleys and hills in well as researching my family history, we Berriew, a short and beautiful stroll a front of us. Over the next seven days it were able to plan enjoyable day trips to mile along the Montgomery Canal, which became an absolute pleasure to wake in medieval Shrewsbury, for the cinema, and features a range of local wildlife including the morning and eat breakfast, either sat Kidderminster, to meet with members of swans, ducks, squirrels and water voles. looking out of the massive window, or on my family, when the weather wasn’t in our favour. Berriew was the location of the farm where the balcony, taking the Welsh air. my great grandfather grew up, before Unfortunately, the weather isn’t always The rugged splendour of the Welsh he went into service at Powis Castle, in the best in Wales, something I had been mountains, the Dovey Valley and Cardigan nearby Welshpool, as a coachman. The warned about by a work colleague, Bay are easily accessible further to the farm was also home to a grandfather prior to my trip. However, interesting west, and provided points of interest clock that now stands proudly in the places to visit, both in Wales, and a short on the days when the weather was hallway of my home in County Durham, hop across the border in the English favourable. following long, and expert restoration by a county of Shropshire, are within easy The Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway clockmaker in North Yorkshire. driving distance, and are home to indoor weaves its way through the Banwy Valley The cabin itself was homely, with attractions, such as cinemas and theatres, and provides opportunities to see deer everything required, plus the addition of which provide sheltered entertainment. As and birds of prey, heron, kingfishers and >> The Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway, view from Penllwyn Lodges log cabin otters. It was originally built to transport at the castle, and that the census from the including a maker of remarkable smoking sheep, cattle and locally grown timber from time gave his address as Puzzle Square. I dragons, Celtic jewellery and hand-printed Llanfair to the canal-side in Welshpool town enquired if this was in the castle itself, but T-shirts. centre. she pointed me back in the direction of the As we we headed home at the end of our town and an alleyway, signposted off the holiday, I wasn’t the only one sad to be Dedicated enthusiasts have reclaimed High Street. She informed me that it was leaving Wales. My wife, daughter, and the the line over the years, and it now boasts where the coachmen, groomsmen and other daughter’s boyfriend, all remarked how a range of locomotives and carriages, staff from the castle had their quarters at that wonderful and welcoming Wales had been. including historic vehicles from Austria, time. Hungary and even Sierra Leone. The We’ll certainly be returning, as there’s still so timetable is variable, depending on the time A visit to Puzzle Square led to an alley much we haven’t seen. of craft shops and cafes, where I had a of year, so it’s best to check first before On returning home, I again checked my feeling of walking in my great grandfather’s making any plans. passport. It still states that my birthplace is footsteps, as I had earlier in my holiday, Broughty Ferry, in Dundee, yet I definitely Welshpool itself is dominated by the red during my first walk along the canal into now feel more Welsh than Scottish! sandstone medieval Powis Castle, home to Berriew. the Earl of Powis, with a museum dedicated to Clive of India, including items he brought Venturing deeper into this part of mid-Wales, back from his travels. proved a little hair-raising at times, as narrow Jonathan and family stayed at Penllwyn roads led up often steep and winding hills, Lodges – penllwynlodges.co.uk Now owned by the National Trust, the and across bridges that seemed to cross www.wllr.org.uk gardens surrounding the castle are world chasms. We took one of these routes www.welshpool.org famous for their Italianate terraces and in search of King Arthur, or to be more www.nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle extensive parkland, which feature deer accurate, a visitor attraction bearing his www.corriscraftcentre.co.uk roaming free. It was while walking up to the name, between Dolgellau and Machynlleth. www.visitwales.com castle, from the High Street in Welshpool, King Arthur’s Labyrinth is part of the bigger that I chatted to a lady tending the garden Corris visitor centre, which includes not only Eastern Airways flies from Aberdeen and of her gatekeeper’s cottage. I mentioned to the labyrinth, but also nine craft studios, Newcastle to Cardiff, and from Newcastle to her that my great grandfather had worked featuring everything from glass to pottery, Birmingham

Bridge over Montgomery Canal, houses in Berriew, Canal waymarker 36 WIN a great golfing break with the Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport hotel Eastern Airways Magazine is pleased to team up with the Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport hotel and our car hire partner, Europcar, along with Murcar golf links, to offer one lucky reader and guest a superb two-night break including a round of golf for the winner and their partner or companion.

Included in the prize are complimentary flights from Eastern Airways destinations and dinner for two on one night with a complimentary bottle of house wine. Our winners will also be guests at the par 71 Murcar Links. Just nine miles from Aberdeen Airport. “It’s as fine a links course as you could wish to play,” according to Paul Lawrie, the last Scottish player to win a Golf Major (The British Open in 1999). TV commentator Peter Alliss described it as “a hidden gem”. Murcar Links is frequently featured in the Top 100 courses in the UK and the VisitScotland Top 40 Great Scottish Links Collection. To enter our competition please answer the following question and send it to [email protected], The four-star Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport is with its own entrance and ten state-of-the-art to arrive no later than November 27. the most prestigious hotel at the city’s airport meeting rooms, one with views of the airport’s Please ensure that you write Crowne Plaza – and it’s only 100 metres from the passenger runway. Four major business parks are nearby competition in the subject and that you terminal and a mere five-minute walk away – ABZ, D2, Aberdeen Gateway and Prime Four. provide your full name, address, contact from direct connections to Eastern Airways details and the date of your most recent The hotel can provide transport to and from destinations across the UK and Norway. flight with Eastern Airways. Prizes are not these, as well as the nearby heliport. transferable. The hotel has 165 luxury bedrooms and There’s a gym, complimentary high-speed WiFi, Q: How many rooms are there at the new four- contemporary and elegant décor. Guests in USB charging points in bedrooms, a Starbucks star Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport hotel? the 25 Club Rooms have access to the Club cafe, 24-hour room service, and more than 250 Lounge, where they can enjoy a continental car parking spaces. Prize to be taken by March 31, 2016, subject to availability breakfast and an evening canapé and drink of accommodation and flights. Public holidays and peak Particular attention has been paid to ensuring reception. Exceptional food and drink are periods (such as Christmas and New Year) may be excluded. guests sleep well, with guaranteed wake-up For full competition rules see www.gravity-consulting.com served from the Offshore Grill restaurant and calls, designated quiet zone floors, beds with two bars. plush duvets and luxurious sheets, and Crowne For information on Murcar Links or Business facilities include a conference centre Plaza Sleep Advantage kits in each bedroom. to book a tee-time call 01224 704354, To make a reservation at the Crowne Plaza Aberdeen Airport call 01224-608 350 email [email protected] or see email [email protected] or see www.cpaberdeen.com www.murcarlinks.com

Eastern Airways flies to Aberdeen from 14 UK and Norway destinations 37 WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Information on our routes, fleet, passenger experience and suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination. BARE ESSENTIALS

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After booking your Eastern Airways Norwich and Southampton for passengers STAMPING OUT flight via a travel agent, the airline’s travelling on fully flexible tickets. website or in-house reservations call DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR centre, you will have noticed that As you board your aircraft you will Eastern Airways uses e-tickets. It was in notice we have a fleet of liveried valet While the vast majority of passengers flying fact one of the airlines to pioneer baggage carts for you to place larger globally behave impeccably, there is a ticketless travel over nine years ago. items of hand luggage by the aircraft steps. greater awareness of isolated incidents of Your hand luggage will be awaiting you on disruptive behaviour, also known as “air Queues at check-in are short and the the valet baggage cart at your destination rage”. While this isn’t a major problem for Eastern Airways, the safety and security of process is swift as is the experience airport. our passengers and crew is our number one through the security channels. This is priority. possible thanks to Fast Track, which is Once on board, our highly trained cabin available at Aberdeen, Birmingham, attendants offer a friendly and We don’t want our customers to experience Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Southampton, personalised in-flight service including any behaviour that makes them feel East Midlands and Newcastle, and is a complimentary drinks and branded uncomfortable, or be put in a situation that dedicated security channel for Eastern snacks. On arrival our aircraft allow for compromises safety. Disruptive behaviour Airways passengers to use and avoid quick disembarkation, enabling can include smoking, drunkenness, aggress busy airport terminal security queues. passengers to make their way swiftly ive behaviour or abusive language towards a onwards through the terminals. customer or a member of crew. Our crews With Eastern Airways operating the are fully trained to deal with any incident of largest number of scheduled services this type. from Aberdeen, a dedicated business OUR AIM IS TO MAKE YOUR lounge is available for all its customers TRAVEL AS PLEASANT AN Disobeying a lawful command given by a flying from the airport and is located next crew member is committing an offence under to its departure gates. Executive lounge EXPERIENCE AS POSSIBLE. the UK Air Navigation Order. Offenders who access is also offered at Birmingham, HAVE AN ENJOYABLE TRIP. persistently misbehave on a flight will be Cardiff, East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, handed to the appropriate authorities on arrival and may face arrest and a heavy fine or up to two years imprisonment. Severe We operate a strict no smoking policy on board all of our aircraft and in all of our restrictions will also be placed on their future lounges. This includes the use of electronic cigarettes or any cigarette substitute travel with Eastern Airways. device that emits a vapour or has a power source or produces heat and or a light. We do not permit electronic cigarettes to be charged within our lounges. Electronic It must again be stressed that disruptive cigarettes may be carried on board subject to the following conditions: behaviour is extremely rare, but we do • Carried on person only take a zero-tolerance stance towards • No refills any behaviour that may endanger our passengers and crew. • Strictly not permitted for use ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON… BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S

Andy Warhol’s Pom, 1976. (East Anglia Art Fund; on loan to Norwich Castle Museum & Art Gallery (Norfolk Museums Service) © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc./ Artists Rights Society (ARS) New York and DACS, London.) Right: Cookie jars formerly in the collection of Warhol. (Image courtesy the Movado Group, New Jersey.)

Collectors collect works of art. We all While many of the participating artists and obsessions, their acquisitions are know that. Less well known are the are recognised internationally, their usually made in tandem with their own collecting habits of some of the artists collections are often less well known. work and often for aesthetic reasons. themselves. Previously shown in 2015 at London’s Magnificent Obsessions: The Artist Barbican, the majority have never been as Collector presents a selection of Now an exhibition at the Sainsbury seen in the region before. Centre for Visual Arts, at the University objects from the collections of the artists of East Anglia, Norwich, aims to open Many of us form collections throughout alongside a key example of their work our lives and this exhibition sheds light a window of the world of these artist- to provide insight into their inspirations, on the universal compulsion to collect. collectors. influences, motives and obsessions. Throughout history artists have collected Magnificent Obsessions: The Artist objects for many reasons – as studio Their collections range from mass- as Collector runs till January 24, props, sources of inspiration, references produced memorabilia to rare art and 2016, featuring the fascinating for their work, personal mementos and artefacts and from natural history personal collections of post-war and as investment. specimens to curios and objects reflecting popular culture, and help contemporary artists, including Andy Unlike museums, artists do not reveal the creative processes of some Warhol, Arman, Peter Blake, Edmund de always take a scholarly approach to of the most important artists of the last Waal, Damien Hirst, Howard Hodgkin, collecting, nor do they seek to assemble 50 years. Sol LeWitt, Martin Parr, Hiroshi Sugimoto comprehensive and representative and Pae White. collections. Reflecting personal interests scva.ac.uk

Germany comes to Birmingham for Christmas The largest authentic German market extends into Chamberlain Square where outside Germany and Austria and the Birmingham’s own traders offer their centrepiece of the city’s festive event selection of hand-crafted items, created calendar returns to Birmingham in by local artisans. mid-November for five weeks from November 13-December 22. The German market has become a massive favourite with both residents Over 180 stalls will be offering gifts, and visitors to the city from all over the jewellery, decorations, handmade toys, UK and Europe – a German travel German fare, including the ever popular website ranking it as number two in Glühwein, on Victoria Square, New their top ten European Christmas Street and Centenary Square. markets. Many of the stallholders come from Birmingham’s twin city, Frankfurt. Adjacent to the German Christmas Market, the Christmas Craft Fair www.visitbirmingham.com 40 Marina Schiano wearing n This year’s Faclan Hebridiean book short evening dress from festival, taking place at An Lanntair, Fall-Winter 1970 collection Stornoway, from October 28 to November 3, is themed around blood. Authors and books under surveillance include Malcolm Mackay who was born and grew up in Stornoway where he still lives. His much-lauded trilogy of Glasgow-set novels has positioned him as the new voice of Tartan Noir.

n October in Nottingham sees a host of major festivals taking place across the city, from 1,000 different beers at the Robin Hood beer and cider festival, and the Robin Hood Pageant at Nottingham Castle, to Goose Fair (the UK’s oldest travelling fair), GameCity festival and Hockley Hustle music festival. © The Estate of Jeanloup Sieff n Shetland Noir is the islands’ For followers of fashion first crime writing festival, held in The Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle, County Durham, and the Fondation Pierre Bergé- association with Iceland Noir from Yves Saint Laurent are collaborating to create Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal, the first November 13-15. The list of well- known writers features Scandinavian exhibition in the UK to present a comprehensive display of the French fashion designer’s intrigue from Arne Dahl, Håkan Nesser work and life. and Yrsa Sigurðardóttir. There’s also a The YSL show, running until October 24, highlights the defining elements of his vision, and strong Scottish presence from authors the significant influence it has had on fashion and the way we understand womenswear. including Stuart Macbride, Denise Mina, Alex Gray. Ann Cleeves is also www.thebowesmuseum.org set to make an appearance.

MUSIC AND DANCE CELEBRATED IN ABERDEEN Artists and composers set to feature Red Note Ensemble Atomos by Company Wayne McGregor at Sound Festival include The Griffyn Ensemble (Australia), Red Note Ensemble, Primrose Piano Quartet, Ensemble Alternance (France), Leafcutter John, Ian Pace, Ian Wilson (Ireland), and Brian Irvine. www.sound-scotland.co.uk Wattie Cheung Wattie

n Sound Festival, Scotland’s Festival of New Music, which runs from October 22 to n DanceLive is the only festival November 9, brings together a wide range exclusively showcasing contemporary of musical styles in a variety of concerts, dance in the North East of Scotland. workshops, installations and talks across The award-winning annual event North East Scotland. presents a range of work from local This year’s opening weekend showcases choreographers and dancers as cross-artform collaborations including new well as national and international commissions for new music and dance, companies. 2015 marks its 10th theatre, and visual art. The next weekend anniversary. features a conference run in partnership with The festival takes place across the University of Aberdeen, “New music, Aberdeen from October 9 to 20. Beauty and the Sublime”, with speakers and www.dancelivefestival.co.uk musicians from across Europe. FLY LOCALLY TO NORWAY Now better connected to Stavanger and Bergen via Aberdeen

Flights from Durham Tees Valley, Cardiff, East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Stornoway and Wick John O’Groats

easternairways.com why fly any other way?

Connecting flights from Aberdeen to Stavanger and Bergen are operated by Widerøe 42 RUGBY WORLD CUP KICKS OFF Mid-September sees the start of a six- 2015 World Cup, 12 of them qualified by Stadium, on October 2. The Conversion week festival of Rugby Union, as the finishing in the top three places in their Festival in the city over the following sport’s eighth World Cup kicks off across pools in the 2011 World Cup. The other weekend takes in the EAT! street food 11 English towns and cities, plus Cardiff. eight teams qualified through regional market. The host cities include Rugby, where the competition. There is only one change

ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON game was born, although the nearest from the 2011 competition, with Uruguay Matches in Leeds will coincide with match venues are at Leicester, Milton replacing Russia. All four of our home British Art Show 8, the Hayward’s Keynes, and Birmingham’s Villa Park. nations qualified automatically but only Gallery’s five-yearly major touring England has ever won it. exhibition, which runs at Leeds Art It feels as though the game has come a Gallery to January 10. long way since the first such competi- Three venues are in London – Twicken- tion, in New Zealand (the current holders) ham, Wembley and the Olympic Sta- Leicester will host a Night of Festivals and Australia, in 1987. The biggest single dium. Dedicated Rugby Union venues event, tailored to the World Cup change, of course, was the advent of the include Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium, hosting and taking place on October professional game in 1995, opening the and modest-sized venues in Gloucester 2-4. There will be additional Night of door to growing commercialism – close and Exeter. Other 50-000-plus capacity Festivals activity in the FanZone, in to half a million visitors to this Autumn’s venues are in Newcastle and Manches- Victoria Park, and around the King ter (Etihad Stadium), while the football tournament will spend the thick end of a Power Stadium in the build-up to each billion pounds in the visitor economy. stadia at Brighton, Leeds, Leicester, match. Night of Festivals SPECIAL Milton Keynes and Birmingham (Villa The TV audience for the tournament had EDITION will present commissions, Park) host the remaining matches. swollen from 200 million people for the performances and artworks developed first such event to four billion by 2011 Regular events in the host cities will take by artists from, or representing, all the and only the football World Cup, among on a Rugby flavour during the tourna- competing countries, including a special single-sport events, attracts more ment, while there will also be special Tongan carnival selection. spectators. events, as part of the Rugby World Cup 2015 Festival of Rugby. Events in Rugby itself include a Festival England was chosen to host the of Culture, Rugby Food and Drink These include Newcastle Falcons competition in July 2009, after beating Festival and Enjoy Rugby Festival. rival bids from Italy, Japan and South Legends against Southern Hemisphere Africa. Of the 20 teams competing at the Legends, at the city’s Kingston Park www.rugbyworldcup.com

Eastern Airways serves many of the Rugby World Cup venues, including Cardiff, Newcastle, Leeds, Leicester (East Midlands Airport), Birmingham, Gloucester and Milton Keynes (Birmingham Airport ) and Brighton (Southampton Airport)

Matches at Eastern Airways destinations include: CARDIFF MILLENNIUM STADIUM Ireland v Canada, Sep 19 Wales v Uruguay, Sep 20 Australia v Fiji, Sep 23 Wales v Fiji, Oct 1 New Zealand v Georgia, Oct 2 France v Ireland, Oct 11 Quarter finals, Oct 17 and 18

© Andrew Fosker © Andrew VILLA PARK, BIRMINGHAM South Africa v Samoa, Sep 26 Australia v Uruguay, Sep 27 ELLAND ROAD, LEEDS Italy v Canada, Sep 26 Scotland v USA, Sep 27 LEICESTER CITY STADIUM Argentina v Tonga, Oct 4 Canada v Romania, Oct 6 Argentina v Namibia, Oct 11 ST JAMES’ PARK, NEWCASTLE South Africa v Scotland, Oct 3 New Zealand v Tonga, Oct 9 Samoa v Scotland, Oct 10 The final is at Twickenham on Oct 31

STORNOWAY WICK JOHN O’GROATS ABERDEEN NEWCASTLE

FACLAN 2015 fuil: blood “The purpose of literature is to turn blood into ink.” T S Eliot

Faclan book festival Ackergill Tower DanceLIve Jesmond Dene House

Feis Litreachas Innse Gall WHERE The Hebridean Book Festival WHERE WHERE WHERE To the east of the town. TaxisAn Dàmhair One mile from the centre of Seven miles north-west of the Seven miles north-west of the 28th – 31st October and car hire are available at the Wick, half an hour’s drive from city centre, off the A96. Regular city centre. Metro rail link every airport. No weekend flights. Thurso. Main bus and rail buses into the city centre. For few minutes to the city, Carhire Hebrides: 01851 706 stations are near to Wick centre car hire see Europcar info back Gateshead, the coast and 500. serving most places in page. Sunderland. Half-hourly bus Caithness. Trains to Thurso and service. Taxi fare to city, approx VISIT Inverness. Post bus operates VISIT £12. For car hire see Europcar Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell Aberdeen Maritime Museum, Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: info on back page. St; Woodlands Centre, Lews Shiprow; Tolbooth Museum, BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS Dunnets offers airport pick-up Castle grounds; An Lanntair Castle St; Rendezvous Gallery, and drop-off, 01955 602103. VISIT Arts Centre, Kenneth Street, Forest Ave. Great North Museum, Centre for Stornoway. VISIT Life, Newcastle; Gateshead Wick Heritage Museum; St STAY AT Quays for the Baltic and Sage Rox Hotel, Market St; Skene STAY AT Fergus Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Gateshead. Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal House Hotel suites, various Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. Hotel, Cromwell St, Stornoway; locations; Malmaison; Park Inn STAY AT Scarista House, west Harris; STAY AT by Radisson; Raemoir House Sandman Signature, Hotel Auberge Carnish, Uig. Ackergill Tower, Wick; Mackays Hotel, Banchory. Indigo, Jesmond Dene House, Hotel, Wick; The Brown Trout all Newcastle; Hilton, Gateshead. SHOP AT Hotel, Station Rd, Watten, near SHOP AT Callanish Jewellery, Point St; Juniper (gifts, jewellery), Wick. SHOP AT This ’n That, Cromwell St; Belmont St; Aberdeen Antique Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Borgh Pottery, Borgh (20 miles). SHOP AT Centre, South College St. Princess Square, Newcastle; John O’Groats (pottery, Van Mildert, MetroCentre and DRINK AT knitwear); Rotterdam St, Thurso DRINK AT Durham. Chili Chili cocktail and vodka The Monkey House, Union (20 miles). bar, Era, South Beach; The Terr; Pearl Lounge, Dee St; DRINK AT Carlton Lounge, Francis St. DRINK AT The Globe, North Silver St; The Crown Posada, Side; The Forth, (Both in Stornoway) Cocktail Bar, Mackay’s Hotel, Prince of Wales, St Nicholas Pink Lane; Bridge Hotel, Castle Wick; the Alexander Bain Lane. Garth – all Newcastle. EAT AT Wetherspoons, Wick. Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden EAT AT EAT AT Ocean, Cromwell St; Thai, EAT AT Prohibition, Langstane Pl; Stage House of Tides, Quayside; Church St. (All in Stornoway) Bord de l’Eau, Market St, Wick; Door Restaurant, North Silver Blackfriars; Caffè Vivo (Live Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s St; Cinnamon, Union St; Manzil, Theatre); Red Mezze, Leazes WHAT’S ON Galley, Scrabster (22 miles). King St; Soul, Union St; The Park Rd; Peace and Loaf, Faclan: Hebridean Book Tippling House, Belmont St. Jesmond – all Newcastle. Festival, An Lanntair, Oct 28-31; WHAT’S ON Scottish Opera: Così fan tutte, Knights Of The North Highland WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON An Lanntair, Nov 3. Way Challenge Event, Thurso, A Deeside Food & Fiddle Rugby World Cup: see page 43; until Sep 30; Ca Norrie MacIver Fortnight, Oct 3-19; DanceLive, Spineless, invertebrates (lead singer of Manran) in festival of contemporary dance, exhibition, Great North Museum: concert, Mackay’s Hotel, Wick, Oct 9-20; Sound festival of new Hancock, until Nov 1; Lumière Nov 5. music, Oct 22-Nov 9. Durham 2015, the UK’s largest light festival, Nov 12-15.

Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 Airport 0844 481 6666 Airport 0871 882 1121 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html www.aberdeenairport.com www.newcastleinternational.co.uk Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Onward connections Onward connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Aberdeen, Birmingham, Cardiff, to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Durham Tees Valley, East Midlands, East Midlands, Humberside, Stavanger. Onward connections to Tees Valley, East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Bergen, Stornoway, Wick Humberside, Newcastle, Norwich, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Norwich, Southampton, Tourist/Local Info Southampton, Stavanger, Wick Stavanger, Stornoway Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 Tourist/Local Info 01224 900490 www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk www.wicktown.co.uk www.visitaberdeen.com

44 image: Casson and Friends, DanceLive Aberdeen DURHAM TEES VALLEY HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD EAST MIDLANDS

Hartlepool’s Maritime Experience Hull Fair DoubleTree by Hilton King Richard III Visitor Centre BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Five miles east of Darlington Fifteen miles east of Scun Nine miles north-west of Leeds Twelve miles from both Derby and ten miles west of thorpe, 20 miles south of Hull, centre, seven miles from and Nottingham, just off the M1 Middlesbrough. Taxi fare to 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 Bradford. Regular Airlink 757 junction 24. Rail stations Darlington approx £8. For car miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus from bus and rail stations Loughborough, Long Eaton, hire see Europcar info back bus services to major towns. to terminal. Taxi time 25 mins. Nottingham and Derby are a page. Barnetby Station three miles For car hire see Europcar info on short bus/taxi ride from EMA. from airport with Intercity con- back page. For car hire see Europcar info on VISIT nections via Doncaster. Approx back page. mima (Middlesbrough Institute taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire VISIT of Modern Art) Centre Square; Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds see Europcar info, back page. VISIT Locomotion, the National City Museum, Millennium King Richard III Visitor Centre, Railway Museum at Shildon; VISIT Square; National Media Museum, Leicester; Nottingham Hartlepool’s Maritime Museums Quarter, Hull; The Bradford; Salts Mill, Saltaire. Contemporary, Weekday Cross; Experience, Historic Quay. Deep, Hull; Lincoln Castle and Creswell Crags, Worksop; Cathedral; Ferens Art Gallery, Hull. STAY AT QUAD, Cathedral Quarter, Derby. STAY AT DoubleTree by Hilton, Leeds; Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on STAY AT Radisson Blu, The Headrow, STAY AT Tees; Holiday Inn, Scotch Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Leeds; the New Ellington, Radisson Blu at airport; Corner; Headlam Hall, near Cave Castle Hotel, Brough; Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique Cathedral Quarter Hotel, St Darlington; Crathorne Hall Willerby Manor, Willerby; The hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Mary’s Gate, Derby. Hotel, Yarm; Wynyard Hall. White Hart, Lincoln. SHOP AT SHOP AT SHOP AT SHOP AT Retro Boutique, Headingley Paul Smith, Low Pavement, Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Nottingham; The Artisan’s Middlesbrough; The House, Lincoln; Henri Beene, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria Studio, Arnold, Nottingham. Yarm High Street; Leggs, Abbeygate, Grimsby. Quarter, Leeds. Skinnergate, Darlington. DRINK AT DRINK AT DRINK AT Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, below DRINK AT The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Nottingham Castle; The Water- George and Dragon, Yarm; Lincoln; Ye Olde Black Boy, Haigys, Lumb Lane, Bradford. front, Canal St, Nottingham. Black Bull, Frosterley. High St, Hull. EAT AT EAT AT EAT AT EAT AT Mumtaz, Clarence Dock, Leeds; Loch Fyne, King St, Nottingham; Raby Hunt, Summerhouse; Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Brasserie Blanc, Sovereign St, Red Hot World buffet and bar, Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; Brackenborough Hotel & Leeds. Corner House, Nottingham; Chef Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Restaurant, Louth; Wintering- WHAT’S ON and Spice, Andrewes St, Leicester. Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. ham Field, Winteringham; Pipe Rugby World Cup: see page 43; and Glass, South Dalton. WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON A Gift from the Whole Nation, Rugby World Cup: see page 43 Pacific Predators exhibition, WHAT’S ON Harewood House, until Nov Goose Fair, Forest Recreation Captain Cook Birthplace Beverley Food Festival, town 1; British Art Show, Leeds Art Ground, Nottingham, Sep Museum, until Nov 1. centre, Oct 4; Hull Fair, Walton Gallery, Oct 9-Jan 10; Thought 30-Oct 4; Derby Folk Festival, Street, Oct 9-17; Lincolnshire Bubble ComicCon, Nov 9-15. Oct 2-4; Diwali Festival of Light, Sausage Festival, Lincoln Leicester, Nov 1-15; Nottingham Castle, Oct 24. Comedy Festival, Nov 6-14.

Airport 01325 332811 Airport 0844 887 7747 Airport 0113 250 9696 Airport 0871 919 9000 www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk www.eastmidlandsairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Eastern Airways flights to Onward connections to Bergen, Aberdeen. Onward connections and Southampton. Onward Aberdeen. Onward connections Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info Wick Wick Wick 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 Tourist/Local Info www.visitmiddlesbrough.com www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.visitleeds.co.uk 08444 775678 www.visitlincolnshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.visitderby.co.uk www.yorkshire.com www.experiencenottinghamshire.com www.visitleicester.info BIRMINGHAM CARDIFF NORWICH SOUTHAMPTON

Selfridges Dr Who Experience Norwich Cathedral Tudor House BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Six miles east of the city, off Twelve miles west of Cardiff, Three miles north of the city. Five miles north of city. Parkway Junction 6 of the M42. ten miles from Junction 33 on Hourly bus service into the city Station beside terminal, three Connected by free Air-Rail Link M4. Rail link, every hour, centre. Approx taxi fare to trains hourly to Southampton monorail system to Birmingham connects airport to Cardiff Norwich £7. For car hire see and London Waterloo. Buses International Station for trains to Central and Bridgend. For car Europcar info on back page. hourly to the city. For car hire Birmingham and Coventry. For hire see Europcar info on back see Europcar info on back page. car hire see Europcar info on page. VISIT Norwich Cathedral, The Close; back page. VISIT VISIT Norwich Castle, Elm Hill; SeaCity Museum, Havelock Rd; VISIT Cardiff Castle; Cardiff Sandringham Estate, Norfolk; Tudor House & Garden, Bugle Birmingham Museum and Art Bay Visitor Centre, Wales Norwich Puppet Theatre, St; Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, Gallery, (BMAG), Chamberlain Millennium Centre, Cardiff Whitefriars, Norwich. Gilbert Rd South. Sq; Museum of the Jewellery Bay; Norwegian Church Arts Quarter, Vyse St, Hockley; Centre, Cardiff Bay; Dr Who STAY AT STAY AT The Maids Head Hotel, The White Star Tavern and Thinktank Birmingham Science Experience, Cardiff Bay. Tombland; De Vere Dunston Hall Dining Rooms, Oxford St; Grand Museum, Millennium Point. STAY AT Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Rd; Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; STAY AT Peterstone Court, in the Usk Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel Best Western Chilworth Manor. Hotel Indigo, The Cube; Valley; St David’s Hotel & Spa, & Country Club; Barnham Broom Radisson Blu, Holloway Circus, Havannah St, Cardiff Bay. Hotel & Spa, Honingham Rd; SHOP AT WestQuay Shopping Centre, Queensway; Marriott, Hagley Norfolk Mead Hotel, Coltishall. city centre; Antiques Quarter, Rd; Staying Cool, Rotunda. SHOP AT St Mary Street for specialist SHOP AT Old Northam Rd; The Marlands SHOP AT shops; Splott Market Jarrold’s, London St; Ginger Shopping Centre, Civic Selfridges (Bullring); Harvey (weekends), SE of city centre. Ladies Wear, Timberhill. Centre Rd. Nichols (Mailbox). DRINK AT DRINK AT DRINK AT DRINK AT Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park The Fat Cat, West End St; The The Cellar, West Marland Rd; Bank, Brindley Pl; The Tap and Vaults, Park Place. Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The The Duke of Wellington, Bugle Spile, Gas St. Wine Press, Woburn Court, St; The Pig in the Wall, Western EAT AT Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Esplanade. The Potted Pig, High St; ffresh, EAT AT Bar, St Georges St. San Carlo, Temple St; Opus, Wales Millennium Centre; EAT AT Cornwall St. Purple Poppadom, Cowbridge EAT AT Olive Tree, Oxford St; SeaCity Rd East. Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Museum café, Havelock Road; WHAT’S ON Jambo, Lower Goat Lane; Coriander Lounge, Below Bar. Rugby World Cup: see page 43; WHAT’S ON Umberto’s Trattoria Birmingham Comedy Festival, Rugby World Cup: see page 43; Italia, St Benedicts St. WHAT’S ON Oct 2-11; Fierce Festival - live Cardiff Half Marathon, Mermaid East Street Arts Festival, Sep art, performance and projects, Quay, Oct 4; Cardiff Film & WHAT’S ON 26; Music in the City, Guildhall Oct 7-11; Birmingham Comic Con, Motorpoint Arena, Glyndebourne, Norwich Square, Oct 3-4; SO: To Speak, Literature Festival, Oct 8-17; Oct 24-25. Theatre Royal, Nov 17-21; Southampton’s Festival of Birmingham’s Frankfurt Giant Norwich Record Fair, St Words, various venues, Oct Christmas Market & Craft Fair, Andrew’s Hall, Sep 28 & Nov 23-Nov 1. city centre, Nov 12-Dec 22. 28.

Airport 0871 282 7117 Airport 01446 711111 Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 www.bhx.co.uk www.cardiff-airport.com www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Newcastle Aberdeen, Newcastle. Onward Aberdeen. Onward connections and Leeds Bradford. Onward Tourist/Local Info 0844 888 3883 connections to Bergen, Stavanger, to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, www.visitbirmingham.com Stornoway, Wick Wick Stornoway, Wick Tourist/Local Info 02920 873573 Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 www.visitcardiff.com www.visitnorwich.co.uk www.discoversouthampton.co.uk www.southernwales.com

46 BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS EXPLORATION EXPRESS SHETLAND on-airport facilitiesatScatsta). 693 636(notethatthere are no boltscarhire.co.uk orcall01595 Lerwick. Forhire carvisitwww. Mainland, andalso24milesfrom tipof located atthesouthern is theislands’commercial airport, Sullom Voe oilterminal.Sumburgh of Lerwick,afewmilesfrom the Scatsta is24milesnorth-west Scatsta andSumburgh Airports. contract fortheoilindustrytoboth Airwaysoperatesunder Eastern Shetland CraftFair, Nov 13-15. Food Fair, Oct30-Nov 1; Festival, Oct8-12;Shetland 26-Oct 4;Accordion &Fiddle Shetland Wool Week, Sep Vord Resort,Unst. Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa Bar, Lerwick;KilnBar, Scalloway. Mid BraeInn,Brae;TheLounge Brewery, SaxaVord. & SonKnitwear, Lerwick;Valhalla Shetland Fudge,Lerwick;Jamieson Hotel, Centralmainland. Vord Resort,Unst;Scalloway Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa (both Mainland). Lerwick; Jarlshof,Grutness Britain; ShetlandMuseum, tipof Unst, thenorthernmost Mareel, Lerwick;MuckleFlugga, WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHERE visit.shetland.org Tourist/Local Info01595693434 Airways fortheoilindustry. Aberdeen, operatedbyEastern to dailycharterservices Frequent www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/ Sumburgh Airport01950460905

Shetland Wool Week

Oct 30. Ecomusée desForges, until Habiter leTemps exhibition, Monjarret, Lorient. Morvan, 1placePollig Ploemeur; Tavarn ArRoue Le MoulinVert, portdeLomene, Gourmand, 46rueJulesSimon. Colonel Muller;LeJardin L’Amphitryon,127 ruedu Briand. Rohan; FNAC,placeAristide quai desIndesandde Rue duPortandruedeLiège; by theport. west ofthecty;HôtelLéopol, Brit Hotel,LeKerotel, north- Hôtel Mercure, Lorientcentre ; Blayet andScorff valleys. de Groix;Quiberon; Carnac; the de Gâvres lagoon;Belle-Ile;Île Gulf ofMorbihan;Lapetitemer Approx taxitocentre, €20-25. 15 minutesfrom thecitycentre. About three milesnorth-westor WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHERE LORIENT www.lorient-tourisme.fr Tourist/Local Info+33(0)2847800 AirwaysflightstoLyonEastern www.lorient.aeroport.fr Airport +

33 (0)297872150

Lorient pleasure port

Croix-Rousse quarter. basilica; oldLyon; the Notre-Dame deFourvière speed railnetwork. gives accessthenationalhigh- and hire cars.TGVstation tram (€15.70).Plusbus,taxi 30 minutesawaybyexpress miles eastofthecity, whichis Lyon’s StExupéryairportis15 Oct 12-18. 80 filmsshownin30venues, The Lumière Festival,around d’Argent, Lyon 1district. Rémanence, rueduBât Laurencin, Lyon 2district;La Le SaintCochon,11rue 16 rueLainerie,Lyon 5district; Bouchon LesFinesGueules, rue Longue,Lyon 1district. des Terreaux andGeorgia, 18 district; LeBostonCafe,8place Romand Rolland,Lyon 5 La GrangeauBouc,9quai market, Villeurbanne. Les PucesduCanalflea Rue duBoeufintheOldTown; Tables Claudiennes. Les Soyeuses,49ruedes Fromagerie; Chambre d’Hôtes Boulevardier, 5ruedela Francisque Regaud;Hôtelle Grand HôteldelaPaix,2place VISIT WHERE WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY LYON www.lyon-france.com +33 (0)826800826 Tourist/Local Info AirwaysflightstoLorient Eastern www.lyonaeroports.com Airport +

+33 (0)4727769

La Croix Rousse

the beach,nearairport. centre; SolaStrandHotel,on Skagen Brygge,allinthecity The Clarion,Myrhegaarden, Lysefjord. formation thatoverlooksthe Pulpit Rock–anaturalrock miles outoftown. coast. Theairportisjustnine on thecountry’s south-west Norway’s fourthlargest citylies Arts Festival,Oct15-24. Meteor 2015–Performing quayside. Brygge, bothontheold mid-market ThonBergen Radisson Railway. including theBreathtaking Flam the dramaticscenerynearby, tour (ideallythree days)ofsome Norway inaNutshell–short composer Edvard Grieg. Troldhaugen, thehomeof west ofthecentre ofBergen. approximately 12milessouth- Bergen airportFleslandis Oct 23-24. Whats Brewing BeerFestival, STAY AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON STAVANGER BERGEN NORWAY Stornoway, Wick Bradford, Norwich, Southampton, East Midlands,Humberside, Leeds to Cardiff,DurhamTees Valley, Newcastle. Onwardconnections AirwaysflightstoAberdeen, Eastern www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen Bergen Airport+4767031555 www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Stavanger Airport+4767031000

lu Royal or the lu Royalorthe

What’s Brewing

47 RECORD SHOPS ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE Our columnist, Harry Pearson, has many strings to his intellectual bow, of which a knowledge and love of vinyl records is merely the latest to emerge. He shares both in his essential guide to vinyl around Eastern Airways destinations…

Scotland

Earlier this year a friend of mine In the past year, however, things CAVERN RECORDS, ABERDEEN was sitting outside a café in west have changed. Twenty new When the famous One Up record shop – which London watching workmen doing independent record shops have had started as a market stall back in the days of up the storefront across the road. opened in the UK in the past 12 the Sex Pistols – closed its doors at the start of “What’s it going to be?” he asked months, bringing numbers back 2013 there were widespread fears that Cavern the waitress. “‘A record shop,” to a level not seen for nearly a Records would soon follow, leaving Aberdeen she said. “Blimey,” my friend decade. The trend has been bereft. Thankfully the gloomy predictions proved said, “what is this, 1979?” bolstered by a huge surge of unfounded and the crammed and deliciously dusty interest in vinyl, which – despite shop in the trendy Belmont Street area continues In truth it is my friend who is all predictions that CDs and to delight local and visiting record collectors alike, out of touch. A decade ago the downloads would send it the with its eclectic selection of second hand vinyl – picture for the indie vinyl store way of the wax cylinder – has everything from 70s German synth to Grime via was indeed gloomy. Battered by undergone a spectacular revival. Goth and Jazz-funk. The stock on display in the the rise of megastores and the racks is merely the tip of the vinyl iceberg; Cavern appearance of online retailing In 2014 sales of what we used to has lots more stuff tucked away in storage, so if behemoth Amazon, independent call “records” hit 1.29 million in you’re after something specific, it’s wise to ask. record shops looked to be on the the UK, the highest since 1996. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen verge of extinction, the woolly This year has seen another hike, mammoths of retail. In 2010 it so far by an estimated 60 per North of England was estimated that in Britain cent. The vinyl LP and singles a record store closed roughly chart has been brought back every three days. Places that and the annual Record Store Day RPM, NEWCASTLE had once been a Mecca for sees vinyl junkies literally sleeping Tyne and Wear is a bit of a haven for the record music fans, such as Selectadisc out on the street in the hope of addict, with at least half-a-dozen independent in Nottingham, One Up in securing special limited edition stores in the metropolitan area (though sadly Pop Aberdeen, Ray’s Jazz Shop, issues. The independent record Rec in Sunderland, which was run by Frankie in London, Clive’s Records, stores offer more than just retail, and the Heartstrings, has had to close owing to on Shetland, and Red Rhino, though. They are a place for fans leasehold issues). RPM is arguably the best of an in York, took down their dusty to congregate, for people to hear excellent bunch. Tucked away off High Bridge, in posters, folded up their slogan new music and meet kindred Newcastle, the compact shop first opened in 1998, T-shirts and closed their doors spirits. As Brian Mutton, of The specialises in indie, classic rock and hip-hop and for good, taking with them a host Music Exchange, in Nottingham, also hosts music events by locals, such as Paul of memories and living on in only once summarised: “It’s a proper Smith from Maximo Park. Alongside the vinyl, RPM the little paper price stickers that social service.” It may not quite also has a selection of fabulous vintage stereo came attached to the sleeves of be 1979, but it’s a lot better than equipment, including a 1960s Dynatron that looks the LPs and singles they’d sold. 2010. like something James Bond might have spun his platters on. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle

48 WimmerAlfred SOUND IT OUT, STOCKTON- and several relocations since those days and ON-TEES the label is no more, but their shop continues Located in the back streets of Stockton, to attract big name music fans, including the Sound It Out leapt to national prominence likes of the late John Peel and members of in 2011 when it was the subject of a warm, Primal Scream. Swordfish is the place to go funny and ultimately uplifting documentary for special edition vinyl – including a £750 by local filmmaker Jeanie Findlay, which boxed set of Led Zeppelin’s entire catalogue earned widespread acclaim. Owner Tom – and pre-owned rarities by the Beatles, Butchart is a man with wide-ranging musical Stones and Jimi Hendrix. tastes who’s never happier than when Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Birmingham advising a customer on the best way to get into 1960s psychedelic biker rock. The South of England shop is a trove of vinyl treasures and often hosts music events by bands such as The PIE AND VINYL, SOUTHSEA Futureheads. Butchart and his staff are A record shop that also serves pie and marvellous. As the man himself says: “We’re mash? Why not? Pie and vinyl is the passionate, we’re into music and we know brainchild of Rob Litchfield and Steve how to talk to people.” Courtnell, who summarise the thought Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees Midlands & East Anglia behind the concept with the words: “We Valley both like music and we both like pies.” Half MUSIC EXCHANGE, a mile from the beach, in Southsea, near SPIN IT, HULL NOTTINGHAM Portsmouth, the shop-café opened in 2012. A vinyl-only store that boasts the biggest This is not just a record store but also a Fitted out with hipster “granny’ furnishings – selection of LPs and singles in the whole of community project that works with a local fringed lampshades, bent wood chairs – with Yorkshire and the North East, Spin It was homeless charity, offering valuable work vinyl LPs displayed in steamer trunks and opened 24 years ago by Steve Mathie. experience to vulnerable adults. Music suitcases, it proved an instant hit. Surely the Located in Trinity Market, in central Hull, the Exchange opened in 2009 and was such a only place on the planet where you can tuck stock is unashamedly “oldie”-orientated hit it quickly moved to much larger premises into a Pieminster steak-and-onion pie while with everything from Billy Fury singles, Big in the hip Hockley area of Nottingham. contemplating a Can five-LP boxed set. Bill Broonzy EPs to original albums by the Manager Brian Mutton – who formerly Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton Rolling Stones and The Animals. With over worked at legendary Nottingham record 22,000 chunks of vinyl to pick through shop Selectadisc – is the only full-time Wales you’ll likely not have time to check out the member of staff. Music Exchange is stuffed selection on rock and pop memorabilia, with vinyl goodies, posters and cards SPILLERS, CARDIFF which would be a pity as you might miss out designed by local artists and all profits The World’s oldest surviving record store, on some 1980s Michael Jackson waterslide go to charity. East Midlands fashion guru Spillers began selling wax cylinders when transfers. Paul Smith is reportedly a big fan, and who Queen Victoria was still on the throne and Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Humberside. wouldn’t be? has been going ever since, despite being Nearest Eastern Airways airport – East Midlands forced to move several times. Over the THE INKWELL, YORK years this cramped little shop has been a The kind of hipster hang-out you might SOUNDCLASH, NORWICH haven and a hangout for the likes of Cerys expect to find in Shoreditch, this small One of the last surviving independent Matthews and the Super Furry Animals and shop is devoted to old and new vinyl, pop record shops in East Anglia, Soundclash has become such an institution that when culture books and magazines (including was opened by owner Paul Mills in 1991. property speculators seemed likely to close it 1970s issues of Mad). It also serves good Located in the upmarket Norwich Lanes down in 2006 2,000 local people – including coffee. The tables are 1950s school desks, area right in the centre of the city, the shop MPs and members of the Manic Street the record racks are old baker’s trays and specialises in underground and indie on new Preachers – signed a petition to save it. there are Bob Dylan lyrics painted on the vinyl, and also has a wide ranging second- Luckily it worked. As the Manics themselves wall (the shop name is from Subterranean hand stock and sells tickets for local gigs commented: “Spillers was a lifeline – it gave Homesick Blues). The owner is amazingly and festivals. Friendly staff are the antithesis us our musical education.” friendly and massively knowledgeable of a of the sneering music nerd so memorably Nearest Eastern Airways airport - Cardiff whole range of musical topics from jazz to portrayed by Jack Black in the movie hip-hop. Secondhand and rare vinyl is all High Fidelity, and have the sort of in-depth Norway carefully chosen and there are regular days knowledge that allows them to pinpoint an when local musicians pop in to play personal album from even the vaguest description of VINYLPALASS, STAVANGER selections over the sound system. its sleeve. Opened back in 2011 by a couple of local Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Leeds Bradford Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich DJs, Fredrerick Larvik and Paul Wolde, who had cottoned on to the upswing in interest in SWORDFISH, BIRMINGHAM vinyl earlier than most, Vinylpalass is located Owners Gareth and Mike opened their first in the centre of Stavanger. Run by volunteers record shop, Rockers, back in 1979, selling as a kind of community enterprise, the shop punk, post-punk and later New Romantic not only sells but also buys vinyl. Sadly it’s vinyl. They launched their own record label only open for a few hours on Saturdays, from the shop too, which featured luminaries but the commitment and enthusiasm of such as former Duran Duran member and owners and staff will help you pack a lot in. future Robbie Williams co-writer, Stephen Specialises in soul, funk and hip-hop. The Inkwell Duffy. They’ve undergone a name change Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Stavanger THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson FERRETING OUT THE TRUTH…

Yorkshire club’s legendary number six. as cute or adorable, or feeling the overwhelming urge to pamper it with Bites Yer Legs was enraged by many presents. But such is the case in the things. In fact, it is hard to think of US, where ferrets are regarded as just anything that didn’t test his patience the sweetest little things. to breaking point. Even a glimpse of Una Stubbs on Give Us A Clue was Shops such as The Ferret Store offer likely to end with him sinking his fangs the transatlantic ferret-owner the into the nearest achilles tendon. What opportunity to purchase all kinds of really got Norman’s goat, though, was gifts, from a plush hammock known as flapping material. During the mid- The Marshall Designer Fleece Leisure 70s it seemed the ferret was the only Lounge, to an extensive range of creature on earth that was actively deodorant sprays. There even exists campaigning for the return of straight- a range of ferret-size hats, including a leg jeans. little straw stetson.

And then there was the smell. Ferrets There is a darker side to the US secrete a pungent odour from their ferret scene. Sadly, while their fellow anal glands when they are frightened American ferrets cavort around in a or aggressive. Since Norman spent Sheppard & Greene Ferret Freeway nearly all his waking hours in a state (“Can this be the ferret toy of the Ferrets were first brought into the of extreme belligerence, this meant century?”), others live as fugitives home by the ancient Egyptians as a he lived most of his life enveloped from justice. It is entirely illegal to own means of rodent control, their status in a poisonous mist. In an enclosed a ferret in the state of California. An as a household pet predating that space the stink was so palpable you organisation called Californians For of the cat. In Renaissance Europe instinctively swatted at it as at a cloud Ferret Legalization (CFL) has been the sharp-toothed little animal was of midgies. campaigning vigorously to have the regarded as something of a fashion ban lifted. According to CFL, there accessory. It is said that Britain and the US are countries separated by a common lan- could be as many as 500,000 ferrets Leonardo Da Vinci painted Cecilia guage. It might also be said that the living underground, as it were, in the Gallerani fondling a white ferret, while two nations are divided by a common Sunshine State. a similar, if smaller, specimen is seen animal, the ferret, or at least by their Some readers may find it ironic that, crawling up Elizabeth I’s dress in the attitudes to the only domesticated in a country where you can walk into famous Ermine Portrait, which hangs member of the weasel family. in the Courtauld. a shop and buy a Smith & Wesson It is hard to imagine anybody in Britain magnum, it is against the law to own Later the ferret started to keep looking upon a member of the same a polecat. But then you never knew company that was rather more species as Bites Yer Legs Norman Bites Yer Legs Norman. suited to its Latin name, “the little fur thief”, turning up among the Wild Wooders in The Wind In The Willows, “IT IS HARD TO IMAGINE ANYBODY as companion to the archetypal “smelly Herbert” Compo in Last of IN BRITAIN LOOKING UPON A MEMBER the Summer Wine, and dangling by its incisors from the fingers of OF THE SAME SPECIES AS BITES YER LEGS Richard Whiteley on a local TV news programme. NORMAN AS CUTE OR ADORABLE” The only ferret I have ever known belonged firmly in this less reputable category. He was an albino male or hob (female ferrets are jills; the young, kits) owned by a school friend of mine and known as Bites Yer Legs Norman. Bites Yer Legs was named in honour of Leeds United’s robustly uncompromising defender, Norman Hunter, but in terms of pure psychotic

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BELOW PaulRushton,MagmaMD Yarmouth, HoustonandBucharest. The companyalsohasoffices inGreat decommissioning. regulatory requirements involvedin route through thecomplexitiesand companies withastart-to-finish System (DCMS)provides The DecommissioningManagement equipment. from decommissionedmaterialsand and costswhilemaximisingreturns at minimisingdecommissioningtime launched anewsoftware systemaimed Aberdeen-based MagmaProducts has HELP FROM MAGMA DECOMMISSIONING Resources International founder andDirector atInfinity ABOVE AlanwithAmandaDornan, Infinity. role andwillremain ashareholder with move intoanon-executivedirector a newbusinesschallenge.Martin will is movingtoSouthEastAsiapursue Alan takesoverfrom Martin Finniewho recruitment specialist. based upstream oilandgas industry Operating Officer withthe Aberdeen- role havingpreviously beenChief He hasbeenpromoted to theCEO International. Executive atInfinityResources Alan Golightly, isthenew Chief INFINITY AT UP MOVING Andy Smith LEFT PaulineMcCannandDirector many ofwhomare long-standing.” an evenbetterservicetoclients, enhance ourproduct rangetodeliver “The office movehasallowedusto Sales ManagerPaulineMcCannsaid: premises atBridgeofDon. industries, hasrelocated tolarger firms operatinginunderwater-related components andconnectorsto The company, whichsuppliescables, strategic growth plans. facilities inAberdeen insupportofits the sizeofitsoffice andwarehouse Subsea Supplieshasalmostdoubled EXPANSION MOVES SUPPLIES SUBSEA

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ENERGY EXTRA Even before the oil price slump, which consequent delays frequently impacted caused the current oil and gas industry The collapse in world oil on production. crisis, UK costs had spiralled out of A number of improvements were control and steps were being taken to prices has accelerated an identified, including better materials make very necessary changes. essential process of cost cataloguing, disposal of surplus spare The cost of operations on the UK parts and a reduction in the number of Continental Shelf (UKCS) had more than reduction in the UK oil and storage locations being used. doubled over the previous five years, The number of storage locations has meaning that it was costing around $30 gas industry, writes more than halved from 120 to 48, greatly to produce a barrel of oil, and production reducing costs. The number of inventory efficiency had fallen from 81 per cent in items has also halved from 158,000 to 2004 to just 60 per cent in 2012. Graeme Smith… 75,000 and around $32 million has been At the end of last year, almost 20 per generated by disposing of scrap and of 2015 could have increased by 2.5 per cent of production was loss-making at a materials identified as surplus to the cent since the same period last year. $50 oil price and, over the year, that loss company’s needs. amounted to more than £4 billion across While thousands of jobs have been lost the basin. in the industry this year, there are now INCREASED INPUT clear signs of innovative and sustainable The industry has faced similar challenges BP is also participating in an Oil & Gas measures being put in place by operators in the past, but has generally been UK workgroup focusing on the use of and contractors. rescued by a high oil price. This time inventory. Through collaboration with that has not happened and the focus Nexen, for example, looked at how other operators, materials are being has been on looking at opportunities to the Sky cycling team’s “aggregation of shared, inventories are being slimmed make changes to ensure the industry is marginal gains” helped bring Olympic down and required materials are being sustainable in a low oil-price world. and Tour de France domination and made available more quickly. engaged its workforce to identify Total is improving the efficiency of its potential marginal gains. This approach POSITIVE RESULTS UKCS field operations by encouraging helped increase wrench time by 40 per A production cost of $20 a barrel has offshore teams to use visualisation cent – meaning that skilled maintenance frequently been mentioned as a nominal techniques to help improve the process staff now spend more of their time dong target to ensure the UK is able compete of planning operations and maintenance what they are paid to do, rather than for global investment, protect existing activities. This encourages increased travelling or wasting time sourcing parts. infrastructure, maximise economic input and participation of supervisors, recovery of the country’s oil and gas BP has improved its management of technicians and operators and has resources, and safeguard jobs. inventory to reduce lead times in getting achieved a 12 per cent improvement in critical spare parts offshore, and reduce the completion of planned tasks in its first To achieve these goals, the industry is waste from the purchase and storage of three months. driving a number of projects to improve excess materials. efficiency – some of which are already Centrica held a “hackathon” of ideas yielding positive results, if the recent Over the past five decades the company with suppliers, aimed at reducing the figures issued by the Department for had built up a very large inventory in costs on projects, and generated scores Energy in August are anything to go by. many locations and the complexity and of possibilities by adopting the method Estimates are that oil and gas production excess often meant long lead times in often used by software developers and

Bacho Foto from the UKCS for the first six months transporting materials offshore and the programmers, who get together to share

vi than 120 other courses. It has also than 120 othercourses.It hasalso electrical, rigging andliftingmore and windenergy, aswellCompEx emergency response, seasurvival village onNorthTyneside. Itoffers 150,000 square-foot offshore training of poundstocreate astate-of-the-art The companyhasinvestedmillions on trainingbudgetsforthesector. which couldhaveasignificantimpact training, offering real costsavings, created awholenewapproach to Advanced IndustrialSolutionshas in place when a job is due to begin. in placewhenajobisduetobegin. parts, peopleandprocesses shouldbe projects andschedulejobs, theright onshore, tomanagematerials,plan than logisticscoordinators based By enablingemployeesoffshore, rather planning. workforce tocarryoutschedulingand and empoweringtheoffshore reducing “deadtime”oninstallations platforms more efficient bysignificantly BG Group ismakingitsoffshore to solvethem. problems andcombinetheirstrengths NEW APPROACHNEW industry.” and ensure asustainablefuture for the attract fresh investmentintothebasin world, whichisessential ifweare to more cost-efficient in alowoil-price positively tothechallengeofbecoming more cooperativelyandresponding capable oftakingtheinitiative,working us thatthisisa‘cando’industry transforming thewaytheyworkremind “These examplesofcompanies face offuture economicchallenges. model toreinforce itsresilience inthe leaner, stronger andsaferbusiness made toensure thesectoradoptsa in whichtoughdecisionshavetobe challenging businessenvironment, continues tooperateinareally Chief Executive,said:“Ourindustry Deirdre Michie,Oil&GasUK’s travel. in additiontooftencostlyhotelsand bookings andbillsformultiplecourses, the needforemployerstomanage The hopeisthatthiswilleliminate from just£29pernight. location withonsiteaccommodation need inoneaccessible,affordable allows peopletogetalltheskillsthey developed anonsitehotel,which ADVANCED INDUSTRIAL Advanced Industrial Solutionstrainingcentre TRAINING, OFFERING OFFERING TRAINING, REAL COST SAVINGSREAL NEW APPROACH TONEW CREATED A WHOLE SOLUTIONS HAS HAS

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