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~~-+ ~ ~ ~ ~~i ~ SOUTHERN PACIFIC DISCOVER INFORMATION CONCERNING ITS OPERATIONS, EQUIPMENT, HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY WITH TRAINLINE MAGAZINE•.. When you join the Southern Pacific Historical and Technical Society, you will receive Trainline quarterly. You will also receive the society Newsletter containing society news, news items and the Switch list. The society hosts annual meetings programmed with shows, workshops and much more that you will want to be part of. lf SOUTHERN PACIFIC is your interest- membership's a MUST! Membership dues are $12.50 regular or $18.75 contributing annually.

SOUTHERN PACIFIC HISTORICAL AND TECHNICAL SOCIETY P.O. BOX 93697, PASADENA, CA 91109-93697 marin graphiEs, in1:. Complete Offset Printing BY CRAFTSMEN WHO TAKE PRIDE IN THEIR WORK We Manufacture Our Own Rubber Stamps

ONE-COLOR OR MULTI-COLOR 21 JOSEPH CT., SAN RAFAEL On Frontage Road across from Northgate Shopping Center

W. C. Whittaker photo, Fred Stindt collection, NWPRRHS archives, all rights reserved

VISIT THE WESTERN RAILWAY MUSEUM · ) Rio Vista Junction Open weekends and holidays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. II" I ID" RIILRDID ART- CDLLBCTDR SBRIBS 112 southbound in the early 1930's at the Santa depot with Mount St. Helena in the background.

You can own a limited edition print in beautiful color, signed and numbered by the artist for $53.00, including shipping and handling.

All proceeds from the sale of this print will go to the II FUID

NORTHWESTERN PACIFIC RAILROAD HISTORICAL SOCIETY To order this fine print, make checks payable to NWPRRHS and send to P.O. Box 667, Santa Rosa, CA 95402. DON'T DELAY, THIS PRINT WILL GO QUICKLY. • 1 ;7 SAUSALITO'S paddle wheels churn bay waters as she departs her namesake town in this undated photo from Bob Paulist's collection.

T HE NORTHWESTERNER, ISSN 0894-0800, is published semi-annually by the Northwestern Pacific Historical Society, A Cali fornia nonprofit organization, Northwestern Pacific Railroad P.O. Box 667, Santa Rosa, 95402-0667. Magazine included with membership. Otherwise, single copies $5.00. Historical Society, Inc. Library subscriptions $8.00 per year, U.S. funds only. Postmaster: send change of address notices to P.O. Box 667, Santa Rosa, California 95402-0667. Copyright 1995 by Northwestern Pacific Railroad Historical Society. All rights reserved. This magazine may OFFICERS not be reproduced in whole or part by any means without permission. Excerpts may be quoted in reviews. Allen Tacy, Articles and photos are welcome and solicited. We will return all material, when requested. Payment will be in David Lightfoot, Vice President EDITORIAL COMMITTEE complimentary copies of the issue in which the contributor's Doug Ellinger, Secretary work appears. Send contributions to Editor, THE NORTH­ John Jay, Treasurer Ted Wurm WESTERNER, 162 Porteous Avenue, Fairfax, California Doug Richter 94930.

DIRECTORS Editor Paul Trimble STATEMENT OF PURPOSE David L. Dorrance Fred Codoni Bob Moulton The objective of the Society is to Paul Dickey preserve the heritage of railroading Typesetting and Printing Donald. L. Olsen in the Redwood Empire Marin Graphics, San Rafael FROM THE CAB This month's column should be titled "From the Pilothouse" instead of "From the Cab", for we're featuring articles and photos on Northwestern Pacific's "navy." Fifty-four years after the last ran from Sausalito, few people remember the importance of NWP's transbay service. Before the was completed, NWP (and later the motor-vehicle-hauling Golden Gate Company and the Southern Pacific Golden Gate ( provided the only means of travel for thousands of people between the Redwood Empire, Marin County SPRING-SUMMER ISSUE - 1995 and . The had no radar or sophisticated navigational aids which are standard on today's vessels; Articles they fought fog and raging storms with only a compass and the captain's knowledge and instinct guiding them The Northwestern Pacific's Navy 6 across crowded . by George H. Harlan Those of us who were fortunate enough to see the NWP boats in action will never forget them. The walking beam Ferryboat Portraits 9 engines and paddlewheels on each passenger boat (except T AMALP AIS) were a visible display of the power of the Ferry Days 23 engines, something not seen in most water craft where by Clyde Rice everything including the propellers is hidden. And who would not be fascinated watching the engineer at his A Bad Day for the NWP 26 station as he "worked the bar" to admit steam to the single by Ted Wurm piston which drove the walking beam as a boat left San Francisco or Sausalito? Ferryboat Vignettes 28 Long-time ferry fan George Harlan provides this month's from an oral history tape lead article and dozens of pictures. Included are specifica­ tions of each boat operated by the NWP. We've printed many photos from member Bob Paulist's extensive collection of ferry views. Ted Wurm, our most prolific contributor, tells us about the Golden Gate Bridge's opening day, which marked the COVER begining of the end for NWP's ferry fleet. Finally, our thanks to Far Corner Books of Portland, , Queen of the Northwestern successor to Breitenbush Publications, for granting us Pacific's ferry fleet, steams out of San Francisco permission to reprint an evocative passage from Clyde toward Sausalito in this undated photo from Rice's A Heaven in the Eye. Bob Paulist's collection. Throughout this issue, we've omitted "the" before each boat's name (except in Rice's article), in keeping with nautical tradition of the ferryboat era.

ONCE AGAIN: WE NEED ADS! Our members' yearly dues are insufficient to fund ten issues of THE HEADLIGHT and two issues of THE NORTHWESTERNER. If we are to continue these publications at their current frequency and quality, we must have more advertisements. It's up to you. THE NORTHWESTERN PACIFIC'S NAVY Ferryboats Moved the Passengers By GEORGE H. HARLAN hen the Northwestern Pacific came into and LAG UNITAS, a wooden-, stern-wheeled, narrow existence on January 8, 1907, the two major gauge . south-end companies, the North Shore Rail­ The California Northwestern had TIBURON, a double­ W road and the San Francisco & North Pacific end passenger ferry; UKIAH, a double-end standard-gauge Railroad (on lease to the California Northwestern) had a car float with some passenger carrying capacity; and varied collection of floating equipment to get passengers JAMES M. DONAHUE, a single-end passenger ferry. and freight cars to and from San Francisco. All had wooden hulls. The North Shore had the Sausalito route while the Initially, two routes were retained: San Francisco­ California Northwestern ran from San Francisco to Sausalito for the electric lines and the narrow Tiburon. The North Shore contributed SAUSALITO and gauge main line, and the San Francisco-Tiburon for CAZADERO, double-end, wooden-hull passenger ferries; standard-gauge steam .

1 T AMALP AIS, a double-end, steel-hull passenger ferry; The completion of the Park-Detour Cutoff on

MARIN chugs past docked SAUSALITO. Sausalito Ferry Building in the background. Bob Paulist collection. April 1, 1909 permitted all steam passengers trains to standard gauge in 1908, had a short life since her bottom operate out of Sausalito. TIBURON, SAUSALITO, planking was not protected with copper sheathing and CAZADERO, UKIAH and TAMALPAIS handled the marine life consumed her hull. By 1921, she was rotting passenger service. on the shore in Sausalito. LAGUNITAS was short on Some boats of predecessor companies did not make the power and had many a lengthy crossing to her credit. NWP roster. On one occasion, it was claimed that Engineer John ]. ANTELOPE, used by the SF&NP when the southern Daly opened the throttle wide and still lost a race with terminus was Donahue Landing, was disposed of by 1884. Alcatraz Island. The North Pacific Coast, predecessor of the North Shore, pwned the first T AMALP AIS, a small steamer with CAZADERO AND TAMALPAIS independently-operating paddle wheels. She was sold prior When CAZADERO was launched in 1903, she listed so to North Shore's taking over. heavily that 600 tons of ballast were installed to right her. Then there were the palatial twins, SAUCELITO and The ballast remained until she was scrapped. SAN RAFAEL, famous for being built in eastern shipyards T AMALPAIS was in many ways the queen of the fleet and transported west in freight cars to be reassembled in with her 2,100 horsepower inclined marine compound San Francisco. SAUCELITO burned at the wharf at Point engine. Her paddle wheels had feathering buckets which San Quentin in 1883 and SAN RAFAEL was sunk after permitted the crossmembers to enter the water with little being hit by the second SAUSALITO on Noveml;ler 30, resistance while assuring maximum "push" when at full 1901. This calamity virtually broke the North Pacific Coast depth of the submerged wheel. Her hull was steel and ful­ Railroad. ly compartmented, making her the safest vessel in the fleet NWP also owned SONOMA, described in the 1919 in a collision. The wooden double enders had only forward equipment register as a "half cabin launch." It was built and after collision bulkheads below decks, making them in Tiburon in 1906, was 34'10" long and could seat only extremely vulnerable to sinking should the lower hull be 15 passengers. It was used to ferry crews between punctured. Sausalito and Tiburon. TIBURON AND SAUSALITO UKIAH IS REBUILT The wooden A -frame walking beam engine in After the U.S. Railroad Administration turned the NWP TIBURON had been built by Peter Donahue when he was back to private operation following World War I, the com­ in the shipyard business in his younger years. It was stored pany deplored the state in which the government had left in a barn for twenty years before he finally installed it in UKIAH, claiming that her "back was broken." After TIBURON in 1884. Toward the end of TIBURON's life, dickering with the USRA, the latter agreed to "rebuild" the timbers and drift bolts in the A-frame became so loose UKIAH, the rebuilding consisting of "jacking up the that the frame would open up to let the crank through on whistle and running a new boat under it." The work was each revolution. done at the Southern Pacific Shipyard in Oakland and, SAUSALITO's walking beam broke about 1922, caus­ when the new boat emerged, it was the finest double-end ing great damage to the cabin and necessitating rebuilding. passenger ferry on the Bay, almost 300 feet long and with Up to that time, the walking beams on the boats had been a design capacity of 2,300 passengers. painted black; thereafter, they were painted white to Four frames and the engine bed were reputedly all that enable inspectors to detect metal fatigue before a serious was left of the original UKIAH. The main engine was accident occurred. reused, the wooden gallows "A" frame being replaced with a riveted steel one, the steam pressure upped from 50 to AUTOMOBILE FERRIES 60 pounds and the revolutions per minute reduced from All of the passenger boats could carry some automobiles 25 to 24. In the company's equipment register, UKIAH and had a monopoly on the Marin-San Francisco business was listed as having a 2,200-horsepower engine. This could until the formation of the Golden Gate Ferry Company in not be correct, for the dimensions, steam pressure and rpm 1922. Golden Gate took so much business from the NWP figure out to 1,411 so 1,400 should be the figure. The new that the latter company finally reacted in 1927 by purchas­ EUREKA calculates to 1,625 horsepower and the com­ ing three boats dedicated exclusively to motor vehicles. pany carried it at 1,500. EUREKA had four boilers, SANTA ROSA, MENDOCINO and REDWOOD UKIAH only two, with steam and water rates for the EMPIRE were the only boats to have the company emblem boilers unknown in each case. painted on the stack. They had four New London ­ Victor L. V erdellet brought EUREKA out of the building & Engine Company diesel engines driving General shipyard and was the only master the boat ever had in her Electric generators which operated their electric motors. nearly nineteen years of NWP service. The influx of these boats created an expanded roster of marine employees but the experiment was short lived for LAGUNITAS the parent Southern Pacific Company bought out the rival LAG UNITAS, as a narrow-gauge car float converted to Golden Gate Ferry in 1929 and created Southern Pacific- Golden Gate Ferries, Ltd. All the automobile boats of SP, MARIN stayed on the run for twenty-two years, being NWP and Golden Gate Ferries joined that fleet, as did the nearest thing to a new boat the company owned for many an NWP ferryman. many years. It should be noted from the roster that MARIN was given the same official number by the U.S. TIBURON SERVICE Department of Commerce registry as REQUA had When all mainline service was moved to Sausalito, enjoyed, so it was not officially regarded as a new boat. travelers between ' Tiburon and San Francisco used JAMES M. DONAHUE, the single-ender, to meet the fer­ THE FINAL YEARS ries in Sausalito. DONAHUE was entirely too large for The end for all NWP ferry service came on February such service so, in 1909, the company purchased a small 28, 1941 with the abandonment of interurban service and steamer named REQUA, allegedly from Mark Requa, the the substitution of busses to and from San Francisco for prominent Nevada mining and railroad magnate. A stop passengers using the four remaining main-line trains. at Belvedere Island was added to this route, such being At the end, NWP had three serviceable boats, feasible with the smaller boat. REQUA's service was short CAZADERO, TAMALPAIS and workhorse EUREKA. lived: the boat burned to the waterline in 1911. EUREKA was to survive for another fifteen years in DONAHUE went back into service until the smaller boat Southern Pacific's San Francisco-Oakland Mole service. could be rebuilt, this time as MARIN with a Standard She broke a crank shaft pin on September 30, 1956 and Gasoline Engine for propulsion (gasoline engines are illegal was retired. EUREKA is on permanent display at the Hyde today). Street Pier in San Francisco. .t::J::I::I*

Dismantling of UKIAH at the Southern Pacific Shipyard, showing the vertical beam engine. The same engine, with a new steel "A" frame and a new engine face, was installed in EUREKA. Collection ofMarshall F. Silverthorn,from George Harlan. FERRYBOAT PORTRAITS

NORTH SHORE VETERAN CAZADERO was built in 1903 by the John Dickie Shipyard in Alameda for the North Shore Railroad. As built, she had a permanent list which was corrected by adding 600 tons of ballast to her hold. Photo by George Harlan

BOAT: Cazadero YEAR BUILT: 1903 TYPE: Double-ended wooden BUILDER: Risdon Iron Works, BUILDER: ]. Dickie San Francisco BUILT: 1903 HORSEPOWER: 1,600 WHERE BUlLT: Alameda BOILERS LENGTH: 256'6" NUMBER AND TYPE: 3 Furnace Freeman BEAM: 68' Dryback DRAFT, LIGHT: 6'9" BUILDER: TONNAGE: 1682 gross, 981 net YEAR BUILT: 1909 PADDLE WHEELS STEAM PRESSURE: 70 lbs. TYPE: Radial paddle CARRYING CAPP:..CITY DIAMETER: 26'0" PASSENGERS: 2,000 MAXIMUM RPM: 24 SEATING CAPACITY: 1,238 SPEED: 17 MPH AUTOS: 36 ENGINES RAIL CARS: 0 TYPE: Vertical beam surface RETIRED: March 28, 1941 condensing GRACEFUL SINGLE ENDER. ]AMES M DONOHUE was the only single-end beam engine boat in the Northwestern Pacific's fleet. This feature, along with her low seating capacity, led to her early retirement. Photographer unknown.

BOAT: Donahue YEAR BUILT: 1875 TYPE: Single-ended wooden BUILDER: Quintard Iron Works, BUILDER: E. Collyer BUILT: 1875 HORSEPOWER: 950 WHERE BUlLT: San Francisco BOILERS LENGTH: 227'9" NUMBER AND TYPE: 1 direct flue fire box BEAM: 55'9" and return tube DRAFT: 5'0" BUILDER: Fulton Iron Works TONNAGE: 730 gross, 592 net YEAR BUILT: 1902 PADDLE WHEELS STEAM PRESSURE: 50 lbs. TYPE: Radial paddle CARRYING CAPACITY DIAMETER: 26'0" PASSENGERS: 870 MAXIMUM RPM: 24 SEATING CAPACITY: 570 SPEED: 18 MPH AUTOS: 4 ENGINES RAIL CARS: 0 TYPE: Vertical beam jet RETIRED: December 31, 1921 condensing

(N) 10 (N) QUEEN OF THE FLEET. EUREKA was the largest of the conventional double-ended paddlewheel boats on San Francisco Bay. She was built at the Southern Pacific Shipyard in Oakland from the bones of the old UKIAH Photo by George Harlan.

BOAT: Eureka YEAR BUILT: 1890 TYPE: Double-ended wooden BUILDER: Fulton Iron Works, DESIGNER: San Francisco BUILT: Rebuilt 1922 HORSEPOWER: 1,500 WHERE BUlLT: Oakland BOILERS LENGTH: 299'6" NUMBER AND TYPE: 4 return flue BEAM: 78'6" BUILDER: No record DRAFT, LIGHT: YEAR BUILT: No record TONNAGE: 2,460 gross STEAM PRESSURE: 60 lbs. PADDLE WHEELS CARRYING CAPACITY TYPE: Radial paddle PASSENGERS: 2,300 DIAMETER: 27' SEATING CAPACITY: MAXIMUM RPM: 24 AUTOS: 90 with seats removed SPEED: 15 MPH from lower deck. ENGINES RAIL CARS: 0 TYPE: Vertical beam with surface condensing RETIRED: Transferred to Southern Pacific 3-1-41

CN) 11 CN) UGLY DUCKLING. LAGUNITAS, built as a narrow-gauge car float, was converted to standard gauge trackage in 1908. She was not copper sheathed on her wooden hull and suffered early disintegration. Photo by Willis A. Silverthorn.

BOAT: Lagunitas TYPE: Horizontal pop. valve TYPE: Stern wheel wooden surface condensing car float YEAR BUILT: 1902 BUILDER: John Dickie BUILDER: Risdon Iron Works BUILT: 1903 HORSEPOWER: 400 WHERE BUlLT: Oakland BOILERS LENGTH: 279'9" NUMBER AND TYPE: 2 Cylinder return tubes BEAM: 47' BUILDER: Risdon Iron Works DRAFT, LIGHT: 6'0" YEAR BUILT: 1902 TONNAGE: 767 gross and net STEAM PRESSURE: 160 lbs. PADDLE WHEELS CARRYING CAPACITY TYPE: Radial paddle PASSENGERS: None DIAMETER: 24'0" SEATING CAPACITY: None MAXIMUM RPM: 14 AUTOS: None SPEED: 8MPH RAIL CARS: 10 ENGINES RETIRED: December 31, 1921

CN) 12 CN) METAMORPHOSIS. TOP- REQUA was reputed to have been millionaire mining man Mark Requa's yacht. Built in 1909, it was purchased that same year by the NWP for the Sausalito-Belvedere- Tiburon service. She burned to the waterline in 1911 and was rebuilt into the motor vessel MARIN Photographer unknown. BOTTOM- Installing the 6-cylinder Standard Gasoline Company engine in M V Marin at Tiburon. Building in background was shelter for ferry passengers. Company photograph by Mike Guilholm.

CN) 13 CN) MARIN was the company's only gasoline-powered vessel. Rebuilt from REQUA in 1911, she served until1933. Photographer unknown.

BOAT: Marin SPEED: 13 MPH TYPE: Single-end wooden ferry ENGINES BUILDER: Unknown TYPE: 1 6-cylinder Standard Gas BUILT: 1909 YEAR BUILT: 1912 WHERE BUlLT : Vancouver, Washington BUILDER: Standard Gas Engine Co. LENGTH: 97'0" Company, Oakland BEAM: 18'6" HORSEPOWER: 130 DRAFT, LIGHT: 5'0" CARRYING CAPACITY TONNAGE: 101 gross, 85 net PASSENGERS: 220 PROPULSION SEATING CAPACITY: 154 TYPE: Screw RETIRED: October 1, 1934 DIAMETER: 52" MAXIMUM RPM: 350

14 PASSENGERS AND RAIL CARS. SAUSALITO, built as a combination passenger vessel and narrow gauge car float, was converted to eliminate the car-carying feature and became strictly a passenger ferry. On November 30, 1901, it hit SAN RAFAEL and sunk it. These old wooden ferries had but a single hold from forward to aft collision bulkheads and a single puncture could spell doom for the vessel. Company photograph by Mike Guilholm.

BOAT: Sausalito YEAR BUILT: 1894 TYPE: Double-ended wooden BUILDER: Fulton Iron Works, BUILDER: ]. Dickie HORSEPOWER: 1,400 BUILT: 1894 BOILERS WHERE BUlLT: San Francisco NUMBER AND TYPE: 3, 2 Furnace Freeman LENGTH: 256'1" Dryback and return tube BEAM: 68'3" BUILDER: William Cramp and Son DRAFT, LIGHT: 7'6" YEAR BUILT: 1910 TONNAGE: 1,766 gross, 1,373 net STEAM PRESSURE: 60 lbs. PADDLE WHEELS CARRYING CAPACITY TYPE: Radial paddle PASSENGERS: 3,000 DIAMETER: 26' SEATING CAPACITY: 1,500 MAXIMUM RPM: 24 AUTOS: 48 SPEED: 15 MPH RAIL CARS: 0 ENGINES RETIRED: May 12, 1932 TYPE: Vertical beam with surface condensing

(N) 15 (N) Starting point of most NWP journeys was the north end of the San Francisco Ferry Building. It's 11:14 a.m. on a winter day (year unknown). SANTA ROSA is out on the Bay while waits at Pier 3 for her 6:30p.m. departure for Sacramento. There's a decorated Christmas tree in the center of the streetcar turnaround; we count 9 streetcars waiting or moving, unhampered by motor vehicles which use a subway under the tracks. The just in front of the two white­ front cars is shared with cable cars; the outside rail of the streetcar track is also the cable slot! The footbridge over The Embarcadero is virtually deserted; banner advertises football game at California Memorial Stadium at 2 p.m. on December 31. Collection of Bob Paulist.·

SLOW STARTER. As built, TAMALPAIS was unable to make her designed speed despite a 2,100 hp engine. Builder Union Iron Works took her back and added 15 feet to each end, which corrected the problem. She was the only steel-hulled, double-end passenger vessel in the NWP fleet. George Harlan photo.

BOAT: Tarnal pais ENGINES TYPE: Double-ended steel ferry TYPE: Inland Marine Co. DESIGNER: F. B. King, surface condensing Washington DC YEAR BUILT: 1901 BUILDER: Union Iron Works BUILDER: Union Iron Works BUILT: 1901 HORSEPOWER: 2,100 WHERE BUlLT: San Francisco BOILERS LENGTH: 245'0" NUMBER AND TYPE: 2 Scotch marine BEAM: 64'6" double end DRAFT, LIGHT: 9'0" BUILDER: Union Iron Works TONNAGE: 1,631 gross, 1,013 net YEAR BUILT: 1901 PADDLE WHEELS STEAM PRESSURE: 125 lbs. TYPE: Steel feathering CARRYING CAPACITY DIAMETER: 16'0" PASSENGERS: 2,500 MAXIMUM RPM: 45 SEATING CAPACITY: 938 SPEED: 16 MPH AUTOS: 37 RAIL CARS: 0 RETIRED: March 28, 1941

(N) 18 (N) DONAHUE-BUILT ENGINE. TIBURON was built by the SF&NP in Tiburon, then floated to San Francisco to be outfitted and have her engine installed. The engine was originally built by Peter Donahue for future use, then stored in a barn until needed; TIBURON was the ultimate user. Walter A Scott Collection from Bob Paulist.

BOAT: Tiburon YEAR BUILT: 1860 TYPE: Double-ended wooden BUILDER: Peter Donahue DESIGNER: P. Tiernan HORSEPOWER: 1,225 BUILDER: SF&NP BOILERS BUILT: 1884 NUMBER AND TYPE: 3 Furnace Freeman WHERE BUlLT: San Francisco Dryback LENGTH: 240'0" BUILDER: William Cramp & Son BEAM: 68' YEAR BUILT: 1906 DRAFT, LIGHT: 7'4" STEAM PRESSURE: 70 lbs. TONNAGE: 1,248 gross, 882 net CARRYING CAPACITY PADDLE WHEELS PASSENGERS: 1,500 TYPE: Radial paddle SEATING CAPACITY: 1,000 DIAMETER: 22'0" AUTOS: 35 MAXIMUM RPM: 23 RAIL CARS: 0 SPEED: 14 MPH RETIRED: September 11, 1925 ENGINES TYPE: Vertical beam fitted with surface condensing

(N) 19 (N) CAR FLOAT. UKIAH was built as a standard gauge car float with small passenger capacity. Overworked by the US. Railroad Administration during World War I, she was ultimately condemned. Taken to the SP Shipyard in Oakland, UKIAH was rebuilt (using the original engine) into EUREKA. Photographer unknown.

BOAT: Ukiah ENGINES TYPE: Double-ended wooden TYPE: Vertical beam fitted with ferry surface condensing DESIGNER: P. Tiernan YEAR BUILT: 1890 BUILDER: SF&NP BUILDER: Fulton Iron Works BUILT: 1890 San Francisco WHERE BUlLT: Tiburon HORSEPOWER: 2,200 LENGTH: 291'0" BOILERS BEAM: 78'6" NUMBER AND TYPE: 4, 2 Furnace Freeman DRAFT, LIGHT: 6'0" dryback and return tube TONNAGE: 2,564 gross, 2,019 net BUILDER: D and C Company PADDLE WHEELS YEAR BUILT: 1914 TYPE: Radial paddle STEAM PRESSURE: 60 lbs. DIAMETER: 27'0" CARRYING CAPACITY MAXIMUM RPM: 24 PASSENGERS: 1,000 SPEED: 15 MPH SEATING CAPACITY: 518 AUTOS: 85 RAIL CARS: 12

CN) 20 CN) I

AUTO FERRIES. Although constructed by three different builders, NWP's MENDOCINO, REDWOOD EMPIRE and SANTA ROSA, were virtually identical. They were the only boats built new for the NWP. Three sisters-FRESNO, LAKE TAHOE and STOCKTON, served Southern Pacific. Top and bottom photos from Bob Paulist collection; center photo from collection of Harry C. Baker from George Harlan. Boat statistics on next page.

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Reprinted from A Heaven in the Eye by Clyde Rice; pub­ the little monster out of the engine room and up on deck lished by Breitenbush Publications. Copyright 1984 by Clyde where it could be hauled away to the shops. This was done H Rice, Sr. Reprinted by permission. with a chain tackle, new to me, but easy to understand and Part of Rice's book deals with his days as a deckhand on operate. With a chain tackle we hauled the pump off its the NWP f erries. Seldom have we seen any written material bed. I began to see how we would haul it out with two on the f erries which is better written or better chronicles the tackles, then I had an idea. I asked W osser if they had interesting details of the boats' day to day operations than the another chain tackle. It was out on the dock, he said. I ran excerpt below. -Ed. to get it and soon had the three placed strategically, for ext day, I applied for a deckhand job on the I saw how the chiefs would do it and I saw that another ferries that the railroad ran between Sausalito way would be much faster. I was quick and very en­ and San Francisco. Mr. Wosser, the thusiastic. Before the shocked chiefs could lend a hand I N engineer, asked me a few questions, and then was moving the pump through the cramped areas of the said "What's this rumpus you had over at the storerooms engine room, up and down and over equipment, then up, with Beavers?" hanging the third tackle at an odd angle. A little pulling "When I work for somebody, I said, "I give them their and slacking and the pump was out. The engineers were money's worth and then some, but I don't like to be indignant-a pipsqueak trying to run things. They looked harangued about it." to W osser to lower the boom on me but W osser stood rub­ "We'll see about that," W osser said. "But why did you bing his chin, caressing his mustache, and then said to no quit?" one in particular that the job had been done in less that "I don't know," I answered. "I didn't mind his talk so half the time it usually took, and after giving me orders much, but he waved his arms around a lot. Somebody's to clean up the paint locker and coil down some lines, he been teaching him the gesture business and he ought to left. Later, I was to learn how important hierarchy is to go back and take some more lessons." any group effort. It reached its peak in the navy and the Mr. Wosser, a man of essential and unobtrusive digni­ great sailing in their eternal battle with wind and sea. ty, grinned and had to look away and fondle his mustache. From them, the tradition of hierarchy was carried to "Yes," he said, "I don't go for pep talks much either," and steamers and finally even to ferries like ours that plodded he hired me. "Start tomorrow on the SAUSALITO. She'll back and forth across San Francisco Bay. As for me, I got be tied up here for repairs. Bring old clothes; it's a greasy away with what I did because I didn't know better and job." because Mr. Wosser, the port engineer, had a quiet sense Greasy or not, it was a job, and Nordi [Rice's wife] and of humor. I were delighted. The next morning found me climbing The next days were not eventful, but soon one of the down the steel ladder with Mr. W osser to the dark engine deckhands on the EUREKA hurt his hand and I took his room of the SAUSALITO, where several extension cords place. I came aboard and stood by the gangplank with the lit the gloom. Five men stood waist-deep below the floor others. The second mate whistled and we hurried out to plates working on a black piece of machinery-a fuel pump, a string of baggage trucks being loaded onto the ferry from Mr. W osser said. They glared at me, as I was brought to a that had just arrived from up north. These were help them and to be rather cuffed around. Among them placed on the port side of the ferry with the tongue of each were the engineer of the SAUSALITO, Ed Creigh­ truck chained to the rear of the one ahead of it, like ton, and Al Tuckey, chief engineer of the big EUREKA. elephants in a circus parade. Then the waiting automobiles We worked along removing steam and oil lines, unbolting were allowed to fill up the starboard side, with the the pump from its bed. Chief Creighton was slowly passengers streaming in along with the cars. removing the steam line in a way that seemed wrong to me. They walked down the great gangway of the , "Here, let me have that," I said, and shouldered in and six and eight abreast. There was an infinite difference in removed it in another way that I had seen would work. them, and yet a sameness effected by the prevailing style I had the piece in my hand now and asked W osser where of body concealment. They were hurried and animated, he wanted it. I laid it there and looked up. Both the chiefs though around this moving band were no drivers with were standing there glaring at me with actual astonishment whips, no dogs, no arrogants on horses. No Judas goats in their eyes. They looked at Wosser, expecting him to led them, no siren beckoned. Yet all this was there and put me in my place or fire me, but W osser didn't. Instead more as the dapper men and jaunty women moved brisk­ he said, "Now the oil lines," and before the others could ly down the gangway and-concealed in clothing, respond I grabbed a wrench the other chief had been using deodorants and attitude-stepped to the deck of the ferry and attacked the line. I soon had it off, but not, I learned for the 7:15 a.m. trip to San Francisco. afterwards, in the prescribed manner. Now we had to get The big gate banged down and stragglers scurried

23 CN) aboard as the massive, uniformed officer, whose other duty parade marched past their pilings took to the air with rasp­ was to bellow the euphony or dissonance of the names of ing cries and sailed over the stem, where old John, famous towns and stations up the rails, waddled impressively down among all dishwashers for his heroic bouts with canned to where we deckhands were lifting the heavy apron of heat, would soon dump overboard the garbage from the the gangway. Into his eyes came a combative gleam. "Who ferry's restaurant. looks upon me sees a man," he seemed to announce as he The EUREKA's big engine turned a huge double crank searched out men's eyes among the passengers on deck. and, by means of this, the paddle wheels. The sounds and Then he stepped on the lever of the apron's counter­ visual movement of this simple, massive mechanism was balance and his near three hundred pounds of lard brought a rich knowledge to each man among the commuters. It the apron up off the deck. was one of those few things they really knew in this world The deckhands cast off the lines. The seagulls on the of indirection, of complicated cams and gears, of complete­ pilings winced at the whistle's blast. Great paddle wheels ly enclosed machination. They knew, deep and bone satis­ began chopping the water to froth and out of the slip moved fyingly, how and why they got to Frisco. The throb of the the EUREKA, biggest ferry on the bay. Those seagulls forced draft in the smokestack, the slow, rhythmic pound that had so silently stood at attention on one leg as the brisk of strokes in the big cylinders, bit secretly and deep into

l AZ.t\OERO

Rice's "dapper men and jaunty women" wait to rush from CAZADERO to their San Francisco destinations as soon as deckhand lowers the restraining rope. Tower of the Sun, one of the features of the Golden Gate Internaional Exposition on Treasure Island, is visible at top left. Bob Paulist collection. each man's hidden reaches and, touching that which was mill geared to the·paddle wheels, the engines could have purely him, broke the streaming cobwebs of herd concept, been removed and the boat would still have beaten her own the twining but brittle filaments of convention. And free, time to Frisco by six minutes. *'*" the man's heart rode the rhythms of the engine far from the water-crawling, time-tied thing, the EUREKA. On the windy bow and on the forward saloon deck strode Clyde Rice lives with his wife on the Clackamas the deep breathers, singly and in pairs. They walked back River not far from Portland, Oregon, where he was born in and forth from port side to starboard, from starboard to 1903. Rice's first book, A Heaven in the Eye (paperback, port, and on the drafty stern the same vigorous thwart­ $10.95), the story of the author's early life from 1918-1934 ship promenaders were always on the march. While on the in Oregon and San Francisco, was published when Rice was lower deck, up and down the broad roadways that ran the eighty-one. It received the Western States Book Award and length of the enclosed part of the ferry, walked the men was selected as one of USA Today's Ten Best Books of 1984. who did not care for the buffeting of wind and yet who Rice's second book, Night Freight (paperback, $7.95), set needed a daily constitutional. And all of these found that, during the Depression, describes riding the rails in the com­ in spite of themselves, their marching always became in­ pany of hoboes. Both books are available from Far Corner volved with the beat of the engines. It was often said that, Books, Order Desk, P.O. Box 82157, Portland, OR 97282. had the exercising passengers been put on a giant tread- Please include $3 for postage and handling.

TIBURON TO SAN FRANCISCO VIA SAUSALITO (Steamer Only).

!__ L•. DaUy I b. DaUy ILv. DaUy L•. Daily Lv. Dally L•. L::::::::: ·::::::·:-c:·:::::: ~H~ ~g~~ :~g'i ::~ I BELVEDERE I ...... ,...... ,...... ,...... 12.20 10.20 8.35 8.7 1 TIBURON 1 A.M. P.M. P.M. I

SAN FRANCISCO TO TIBURON VIA SAUSALITO (Steamer Only).

1 I June 3, 1917 n;,, lj "'· DaUy I "'· n.uy A<. L

I SAUSALITO 2 .2 7.oo· 8.00 9 .00 10.00 11 .00 12.00 1 .00 2 .00 3 .30 1 4 .30 5 .30 6 .301 8.00 i BELVEDERE ~ I 6.47: 7 .471 8 .47 9 .47 10:47 11.47112.471 1.47 3 .171 4.17 5 .17 6.1717 .47 TIBURON 0.0 I 6 .401 7 .401 8 .40 9 .40 10.40, 11.40, 12.40 1.40 3·10 4 .10 5 .10 6 .101 7 .40 A.M. A.M. A.M. A.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. P.M. P.M_. P.M. P.M. P.M.

Dist. Ar. Dally I Ar. Daily !I ------· P.M. I ~ SAN FRANCISCO 8.7 10.37: 12.37 SAUSALITO 2.2 10.051-- 12.05i····· ···· · ...... SAUSALITO 2.2 -,- i I BELVEDERE 0 .6 1~ ~~ · ~~ ~~ ! :::::::::: ::::::::::1:::::::::: :::::::::: :::::::::y:::::::: TIBURON 0.0 1 9 .43 11 .43 ...... , ...... :: .. :.:·::.::::::\:::::::::.:::.. :.:t ... ::: I P.M. 1. P.M. 1

CN) 25 CN) A BAD DAY FOR THE NWP Opening of Golden Gate Bridge Dooms the Ferries Story and Photos by TED WURM

utstanding events of the late 1930s in the were 0 certainly the completions of the two great bridges. The San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge opened to ·cars arid trucks on November 12, 1936 (trains began running on the lower deck in 1939). The Golden Gate Bridge opened on Thursday, May 27, 1937, with a pedestrian-only first day. . We had all watched the Golden Gate Bridge approaching completion while we rode the NWP ferries pad­ dlirig back and forth between-Saus­ alito and the San Francisco Ferry Building. On opening day, crowds were gathered at both ends of the 'bridge waiting for ribbons to be cut The beginning of the end for Northwestern Pacific's navy was May 28, 1937 when the at 6 a.m. Being a high-school track Golden Gate Bridge opened for Vehicular traffic. Ted Wurm snapped this view on man, I was prepared to run the Pedestrian Day, May 27. Ted commented that ((the darkroom man had a hard time whole mile. from the San Francisco getting prints off my over-exposed negatives. We were new to anything but railroad pix end and get there first. nfor­ u and no one had exposure meters. I could have used one. All I thought was overcast-open tunately, another runner was not the lens!' " · · burdened down with camera and film as I of course was, so I finished second. However, I was more interested in getting to Sausalito to get eat_:ly­ morning pic~ures of NWP boats and trains. So I headed on down into town.· Going north past the ferry terminal buildings, I reached the end of the fence to avoid the ticket gate and walked back along the outside tracks. It was the busy time for elec­ tric commute trains, both steel and wooden multiple-unit sets arriving and departing. I got a shot of elec­ tric express motor No. 370 ready to leave for San Rafael at the head of On Pedestrian Day, SP Golden Gate Ferry GOLDEN BEAR loads at Sausalito. a three-car train. A mile north along the tracks was the shop and yards never going anywhere as the stationary boiler. I noticed area: enginehouse to the left ·· near the road, 4-6-0 No. 112 standing cold in a perfect photo spot out­ electric car shops in the center, storage tracks side the north end of the roundhouse, so I. resolved to and main line.·along the bay. Ten-wheeler No. 143 was return later in the day when the light would be right. Gas­ being watered before backing down to the pier to pick up ded:ric motor No. 900 was on a storage track. Train 2 for Eureka, due to depart at 9:15. Between the While wandering ·around and absorbing the atmosphere roundhouse and the street (which was then oh its last day at Sausalito, I began pondered the implication of the new as Highway 101) was littl~ 4-4-0 No.9, steaming a~ay but bridge and its expensive approach roads at both ends.

G'-' 26 Uf) Ted Wurm walked from San Francisco to Sausalito via the Golden Gate bridge to snap this picture of motor 370 and two-car train (two cars in rear not coupled to train) waiting to leave Sausalito on May 27, 1937. Bridge-induced abandonment of train and ferry service was less than four years away.

The system was certainly a bad omen for our beloved were the busy slips of the SP Golden Gate (auto) Ferries, NWP ferries and electric trains and possibly the steam with bright white diesel boats loading and unloading trains as well. As it turned out, the suburban train and ferry vehicles that tomorrow would be using the new bridge. service lasted nearly four years, until February 28, 1941. I walked back up the hills and over the bridge, getting I couldn't foresee all this, of course, as I sauntered back a few pictures of the Pedestrian Day crowds along the way. to the ferry piers and watched switcher No. 228 moving So ended the day I was first able to walk all the way from passenger equipment around for that night's Eureka Train my home in the center of San Francisco to Sausalito and No.4. I got a few more electric and ferry shots and walk­ return. At least for the time being, the NWP was within ed out through the gates with the passengers. Next door walking distance. f:l:l:l:t::

ARCHIVIST, WRITER, SPEAKER, RESEARCHER, ~ SCfl{J}]~ INSTRUCTOR, TRACKER OF TALL TALES, DEALER IN PAST EVENTS ~~ ~.?> JAMES A. HUDKINS, CPA ...__. AND _._ 3319 Central Avenue STEWARD OF: ~ RUSSIAN RIVER E- Alameda, REGIONAL RELICS, ~ HISTORIAN CA 94501-3110 PRINTED MATIER, MEMORABILIA, SINCE 1960 (510) 865-2298 ARTIFACTS, DUST, IMPORTANT JUNK, AND TRASH. P .O. BOX 2037 GUERNEVILLE CALIFORNIA 95446

(N) 27 (N) FERRYBOAT VIGNETTES Here are some excerpts from conversations recorded by the In the days of the auto ferries ... I saw automobiles late Bill Hogarty on November 8, 1988 at the Sonoma backed up 'way beyond San Rafael waiting to get on the County Museum in Santa Rosa as part of an oral history boat. So they would leave their cars around the depot, get project. on the train and go to San Francisco. They'd have to come Fred Stindt: When CAZADERO was launched, it back on a train and pick up their cars later. didn't go anywhere because the paddlewheels did not hit TED WURM: I remember how those ropes would the water. Somewhere in the design it was not allowed swing. You would stand there on the deck and you would enough weight. So the engineers decided that the best go this way and that way, all the way to San Francisco. thing to do was to put ballast in the bottom. With enough I remember also that every morning when Train 3 came ballast, the paddlewheels hit the water and away in from Eureka to Sausalito there were eight or nine CAZADERO went. headend cars and 95% of the stuff in them was fish. AL GRAVES: One of my favorite boats was The iced fish in boxes were taken on to the ferryboat with SAUSALITO. It had narrow-gauge tracks on it and took those carts, in tubs. And all the way to San Francisco we cars from the narrow gauge over to San Francisco. had this wonderful smell. No one ever objected, of course; You might wonder how they could carry both passengers nowadays it would be a horrible thing. and freight cars without women passengers tripping on the BOB MOULTON: SAUSALITO was one of my rails. To make an even deck, they laid a big rope down favorite boats because it had picture windows and you the grooves beside the rails. could watch the walking beam, up and down, up and down, When T AMALP AIS first came out, horses couldn't during the whole trip. I didn't like TIBURON because you stand on the deck. T AMALP AIS had horizontal engines couldn't see the engines. and the way the stroke was set up, the boat would rock EUREKA was the boat that arrived in San Francisco back and forth. And you couldn't help yourself. The horses at 8 a.m. She carried the heaviest load. We all had our couldn't stand it. Even in the last days, you could look up favorite seats and Lord help the person who occupied at all the ropes they had hanging down from the overhead them. When we boarded we always headed for our favorite that you could pull and drop the lifejackets down, every seat. If you didn't have breakfast at home, you could have one of them would be swinging the same way. That was coffee and a hot roll in the lunch room. Coming home, caused by the engines. we caught the 5:15 (EUREKA) with our favorite seats.

Graceful T AMALPAIS steams away from San Francisco in this undated Vernon Sappers photo from the Bob Paulist collection. Marin ferry terminals were Tiburon (top) and Sausalito. Tiburon view shows TIBURON, UKIAH and LAGUNITAS. Docked at Sausalito are CAZADERO, SAUSALITO, EUREKA, MARIN and GOLDEN WEST. We were all good friends, everybody was sociable. It gave for Shreve and Company in San Francisco for $40 a month. you a chance to relax-35 minutes of sitting still on the One day, the boss and I had a falling out and I, being young ferry after you had hurried all day. and impulsive, up and quit. At the time I was living in Originally, NWP used SAUSALITO, UKIAH and Marin County and had been paying a bit over $6 per month LAG UNITAS to ferry freight cars. After the NWP quit, for a commute on the NWP. the Santa Fe took over. Just after World War II they built Well, as I was walking into the Ferry Building on my a new tug called ENGLE. She was kind of a fancy affair, way home that day, I noticed the ticket clerks seemed to streamlined and all the rest of it. But it never turned out have a very easy life. I asked one of them if I might get to be a proper tug for . So Santa Fe acquired, a job. He was friendly and sent me to see the NWP agent through the Army surplus, two steam tugs: HASTINGS at the Ferry Building. and HAYDEN. They operated those tugs for many years The agent was noncommittal but said to leave my name and finally dieselized them. They handled most of the and he might have something. That was Friday. service around the Bay. Their of call were The next Monday I went to work at the Ferry Building Tiburon, Richmond, Powell Street [San Francisco], as general baggage clerk at the fabulous salary of $87.50 Alameda, Alice Street [Oakland], and China Basin. per month-and I didn't have to pay for my commute since The NWP received chip gons at Tiburon for the paper NWP employees rode the ferries for free. Soon I became mill at Antioch. To load chip gons on the barge, you'd put a ticket agent. two on one side, then three on the other, alternating sides I remember particularly the hikers who crowded the until the barge was loaded. You couldn't shove them all Ferry Building on Saturdays and Sundays. Hundreds of on together because the barge would tip over. More than them took the boat to Sausalito and then the electrics to once, when I was working the barge, we tried to shove the foot of Mount Tamalpais. Many walked up the moun­ the whole works on and you could hear the captain scream­ tain from Mill Valley, but others rode the Mount Tamalpais ing "Don't put any more on!" and Muir Woods Railway to the top and hiked down. More than one chip car was switched right into the We ticket clerks made good money in those days, but house. It was in the center track and too many cars on the our salaries weren't the only means we had of getting track would cause the pilot house to disappear. It was easy income. For instance, the fare to Mill Valley was 48 cents to do because of the different lengths of cars. The center one way. Many a young dandy would come up to the track on those barges held only four 40-foot cars. You could window with his lady friend and plunk down a dollar. load only three 50-foot boxcars. Sometimes you'd forget Then the three-minute warning bell would ring and the and then you would hear a crash and the skipper would young man would grab his ticket and his date and run for holler. the boat, forgetting the 4 cents change. When you realize We always used three idler flats because the switch that we ticket clerks handled thousands of such sales in engine was too heavy for the apron. If you had a barge a day you can easily see that we could make a good deal with a list, you couldn't tie onto the apron: the apron would more than our salaries. be straight and the barge was crooked. Sometimes you had There were many times when the ferries were so to run the idler cars on one side of the apron to knock it crowded that the gates would be closed while there were down so you could connect it to the barge. still hundreds of people waiting to get aboard. My father was working as a switchman at Tiburon with I'll never forget the evening rush. The 5:15 boat was the a conductor named "Bull' Taylor when they got some new most popular on the NWP. At about 5 p.m. the offices on steel passenger cars into Tiburon on a barge. With Market and Montgomery would spill people onto Market passenger cars, they'd pull them off the barge, then run Street. Newcomers would ride the the streetcar to the them down the track alongside the slip. The old cars were Ferry Building but those in the know would walk; about pretty short compared to the new ones and so they 5:05p.m. the streetcars would begin to pile up. They ran shoved two of these new ones onto the track and right four abreast in those days. By 5:10, Market Street was into the Bay. Two brand new steel passenger cars! Taylor literally black with people rushing for the 5:15 boat as well told my dad he thought sure they were going to get fired. as the SP and boats. But they got up in front of the superintendent, a fellow There were many news vendors at the Ferry Building, by the name of Neff. He was a true railroad man. He said, selling the afternoon CALL-BULLETIN and NEWS. "Anybody could make a mistake like that. Go back to I remember one in particular. He had crippled legs and work." pulled himself along in a child's wagon. He made so much Your editor recorded the following conversation on money that he could afford a Cadillac-which he sat in paper at the NWP's San Rafael General Office on March 6, while a pretty girl drove him around. At Christmas he 1957. really made money: everyone would give him at least 50 My name is Clarence W. Bockrath and I now work as cents for a paper, even though they cost only 3 cents at a timekeeper in the General Office of the Northwestern the time. Some gave him a dollar or two. Pacific. In the twenties, I was working as an office boy ***" Questions? NORTHWESTERN PACIFIC RAILROAD Major contractors, architects, roofers, HISTORICAL SOCIETY remodelers, tilework, decks, pools, ADVERTISING RATES FOR SOCIETY PUBLICATIONS spas, fences, demolition, engineering, Effective March 1, 1993 drainage and septic systems, retaining The Northwesterner: Semi-annual magazine, white walls, concrete, custom cabinets, glossy paper, high quality printing and photograph reproduction, black ink throughout, trim size 81/2 x 11 painting, plumbing, heating, cooling, inches, saddle stitched binding. 2-4 colors available on appliances, materials, etc., etc., outside back cover and inside front and back covers. Separate quotes available for color separations. Answers! 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Manuscript Reviews 1501 S. Norfolk St. Contract Programming San Mateo, CA 94401 Rates shown are for camera-ready copy. Extra charge for reshooting artwork for size. For help with technical details for ads for The Northwesterner, call Editor ·------:~~e------Fred Codoni at (415) 459-7082. For The Headlight, CATENAitV VtDEII PRODUCTIUNS call Editor Jack Eisen at (510) 653-3183. --~...... (-- Terms: Payment to accompany order. Please make checks payable to the NWPRRHS. DoN OlsEN 795 BuRNETT AvE *2 NORTHWESTERN PACIFIC RAILROAD SAN FRANCISCO, CA. 941}1 HISTORICAL SOCIETY (415) 285-5865 P. 0. Box 667 Santa Rosa, CA .95402 v'inta.~:.,~.fideo Our Commitment is Growing!

OUR CHALLENGE

As human population increases and demands on natural resources grow, the challenge for society and stewards of the forest is to find ways to produce wood products and protect the environment.

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As The Pacific Lumber Company celebrates its 125th year of operation in Hun1boldt County, we accept this challenge and pledge to keep this dual comn1itment.

We will continue to grow healthy forests and provide wood products for present and future generations.

-rhe Pacific Lumber Company Scotia Fortuna ': Carlott

~ -' _. .