Henna Around the World A journey exploring the popularity of from the past to now

The Underground Press MEGAN SNYDER Your Journey Begins Here... Chapter 1: The Origins of Henna /// 8 The Geographic Time-line of Henna /// 10 The Henna /// 12 Chapter 2: Preparation, Care, and Materials /// 16 The Four Basic Ingredients /// 18 All rights reserved. No part of this book, in whole or The Ultimate Henna Recipe /// 26 in part, may be reproduced by any means without prior written permission of the copyright holder. How to Apply Your Henna /// 38 How to Take Care of your Henna /// 44 All photographs, illustrations, artworks, and henna designs created and fabricated by the author Megan Marie Snyder. Chapter 3: Henna Practices in and Africa /// 50 Unless otherwise noted in the ‘Photograph and Artwork Characteristics of African and Egyptian Henna Designs /// 58 Credit’ section in this book. African and Egyptian Henna Patterns /// 64 ISBN 666-6-5301333-1-1 Chapter 4: Henna Culture in Islam /// 70 Printed in the United States of America Characteristics of and Islamic Henna Designs /// 82

The Underground Press Arabic and Islamic Henna Patterns /// 88 34311 Brownell Ln Round Hill, VA 20141 USA Chapter 5: Henna in /// 94 www.theundergroundpress.com Characteristics of Indian Henna Designs /// 108 www.hennaaroundtheworld.com Indian Henna Patterns /// 114 1-800-666-1111 Chapter 6: Contemporary Henna in the West /// 120 Characteristics of Contemporary Henna Designs /// 136 Contemporary Henna Patterns /// 144 Bibliography /// 152 Megan Snyder G R A P H IC D E S IGN Artworks and Photography Credits/// 154 CHAPTER 1

The Origins of Henna

8 /// HENNA AROUND THE WORLD The Origins of Henna

Areas in the such as Egypt, Islam, and 1400 BC – 700 CE India has used henna for cultural practices since Syria 6000 BC, and is considered the oldest cosmetic 500 BC – 700 CE 1 used in history. Now people can find henna Arabia products all over the world in stores, on-line, India international markets, beach boardwalks, tourist Carthaginian Empire destinations and local farmers markets. This ulti- Roman Empire mately signifies that henna is popular on a world- 700 CE -1250 CE wide scale. The time-line is as following: Islamic Empire-Northern Africa, 6000-3000 BC Persia, Iberia Peninsula Catahoyok India Jericho Early 20th Century Cycladic Islands The Geographic Time-line Northern Africa 3000-14000 BC Middle East of Henna Minoan Islands and Fiji and Canaan Thailand 3000 BCE -700 CE Brazil Egypt 2000-Now 1400-500 BC Henna is now found in the major urban centers all around the world. Canaan Including North America, Europe, Mycene Australia, South and Central America, Etruscan and Carthaginian Empires and the Asia Continent Assyria

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Lawsonia Inermis is a flowering and the Cultivating the henna plant is a complicated only species of the Lawsonia genus. The plant process because the weather and location of classification is as follows: where the henna plant is grown influences the outcome of the color and quality of the henna powder. In terms of location, the henna Kingdom: Plantae plant thrives best and grows wildly in semi-arid (Unranked): Angiosperms places and in tropical settings such as northern (Unranked): Africa, western and southern Asia, and northern (Unranked): Australia. However, for commercial production, Order: India grows the most henna. Dr. James A. Duke says, “It is mainly cultivated in Punjab and Gujarat, Family: which together account for about 87 % of the Genus: Lawsonia total production of henna .”5 Other popular According to plant expert Azhar Ali Farooqi, regions where henna is harvested and grown The Henna Plant the main agent in the henna plant is called for commercial use is in countries like Pakistan, ‘Lawsone.’2 The higher the lawsone content in , Egypt, and the Rajasthan area in India.6 the henna plant, the higher quality of the These countries and regions represent some henna plant will produce. Economic botanist Dr. of the warmest and semi-arid places on the James A. Duke notes that during the late spring earth, so the commercial henna products that are and early summer in April and May—when the produced there, often provide the highest quality temperatures peak at the highest— the shrub is dyeing and staining properties. For example, the harvested and milled into a powder for cosmetic henna plant produces the most dye when grown and medical purposes. 3 The powder is then used in temperatures between 35 and 45 °C.7 Because as a cosmetic to dye , hair and fingernails, temperature and location plays a critical role as well as textiles such as , , cotton, and in the dyeing features of the henna plant, henna .4 Elsewhere the flower is turned into oil artist are often looking at weather patterns, to and perfume for consumer use. try to assess the quality of annual henna crops.

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Therefore, if you are an aspiring henna artist, it is each other on the stem, with the average length crucial to be up to date on the weather patterns of 1 – 3 cm. In terms of shape, the leaves are in Asia. According to the article, ‘Why India may oval but taper off to a long point.9 The leaves be the World’s Hottest Region at the Moment,’ have been used throughout history in Indian and during the month of April “Temperatures over Arabic medicine in which people have incorpo- 40 °C were recorded in most parts of Rajasthan, rated henna leaves in folk medicine to alleviate Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Vidarbha and headaches, hemorrhage, leucorrhea, menorrhagia, Marathwada. There were also severe heat wave spermatorrhea, and typhoid. There has also been conditions in Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal instances where people consume the leaves as a Pradesh, Punjab and north Rajasthan.”8 This is antiperspirant and sedative.10 good news for henna artists around the world, The henna flower has four and a 2 because the 2017 henna crop was growing during mm (0.079 in) calyx tube, with 3 mm (0.12 in) a record-breaking heat wave. spread lobes. Its petals are obviate, with white After the hot, dry, and humid season, the or rose-colored found in pairs on the monsoon period starts, which makes the plant rim of the calyx tube. The ovary is four-celled, grow rapidly. But during the winter and fall 5 mm (0.20 in) long, and erect. The flowers are seasons, growth slows down and comes to a so robustly fragrant that, the flowers are used stop. The leaves gradually yellow and fall during to create an oil, and then the oil is incorporated prolonged dry or cool intervals, and the plant into perfumes.11 These perfumes are consumed does not thrive where minimum temperatures and most popular in the Middle East. Henna fruit are below 11 °C (52 °F). Moreover, temperatures are small, brownish capsules, 4–8 mm (0.16–0.31 below 5 °C (41 °F) will kill the henna plant. in.) in diameter, with 32–49 seeds per fruit, and Plant Description and Medical Uses open irregularly into four splits. Additionally, it is The henna plant has many natural uses,—including Environmentalist Dr. V.K. Sharma describes the noted that the fruit helps heal medical problems of the liver and diaphragm.12 uses like and medical henna plant as a shrub that measures about 2- 3 purposes— which people meters in height. The leaves grow opposite of and societies have been using since 6000 BC.

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Preparation, Care, and Materials

16 /// HENNA AROUND THE WORLD Preparation, Care, and Materials

All henna paste mixes contain the four basic clog, while working with a client often leads ingredients: to frustration and designs that are clunky and An acid base amateur looking. Always use BAQ henna powder, if you want outstanding results. Fresh Body Art Quality henna Because sourcing fresh henna powder is Something sweet difficult, I would suggest websites like ‘www. Essential oils. hennacarravan.com,’ with headquarters in In order to create the highest quality henna California, and ‘www.hennasooq.com,’ which has paste for professional use, it is best to have an its head office in Maryland. These websites have explanation as to why you need to add these the highest quality products for professional particular ingredients, so let us start here with use. However, the best henna powder comes the four basic ingredients: from a brand called Jamila. The Jamila brand is a professional grade henna powder that is annu- High Quality Henna Powder The Four Basic Ingredients You must purchase fresh high-quality henna powder for superlative results. Henna that is suited for body art and hair dyeing purposes is always denoted with the letters BAQ or other- wise known as Body Art Quality. When the henna is not BAQ quality, the powder is often chunky, and full of organic debris, which means that the powder will need to be sifted multiple times with cheesecloth or another device to make the henna paste soft and smooth. However, sifting the henna does not always work, and sometimes The Jamila Brand is the best henna powder you can buy. makes the henna paste clog the cone or bottle The box is always stamped on the bottom with a date that you are using. Having your bottle or cone and the letters BAQ.

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I bought the below henna powders and products from the local Indian grocery store pictured on the left. The lesson is don’t buy your henna powder from grocery stores like this because they might look like they have authentic henna, but they do not. The henna powder is old, and as you will see in the next page might contain ingredients that you may be aware of.

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Brand 1: Karishma. The dull color of the Brand 2: Hesh. The dull color and the sift quality of Brand 3: Unknown. Don’t let the words ‘premiere Brand 4: Jamila. This is the best henna powder you green indicates that it is not fresh henna powder. the powder concludes that this henna is made for hair- Qualite Henne’ fool you. The bright color of the henna can buy, and often not available at your local Indian dyeing purposes only. powder indicates that there is dye covering up the true grocery store. The color of the powder is bright and fresh. quality of the henna.

22 /// HENNA AROUND THE WORLD 23 Preparation, Care, and Materials ally imported from Pakistan's Sindh and Punjab Sugar adds a divine fragrance to your henna paste, and regions. With its immaculate sift and dark staining It is optional to add sugar to your henna mixture. makes the henna paste safe to use on children features you will have a flawless paste to use However, incorporating sugar makes the henna and pregnant women. In addition to the beautiful with any kind of applicator. Jamila henna powder stay moist while sticking to the skin longer, thus scent, Lavender is one of the most resourceful also yields a very high 2.7% lawsone dye content. achieving a darker and high quality stain. The oils there is in the world. For example, lavender Remember the higher the lawsone dye content sugar also makes your henna have a smoother is analgesic, anti-microbial, anti-fungal anti-in- the darker the henna stains. consistency, which will help create designs that flammatory and has been applied on the skin for Do not trust henna powders and products are more detailed. centuries for its advantageous results including, that you find at the local grocery store, because Sugar is not necessary, but if you want your comforting burns and healing wounds, stimulat- you do not know how fresh it is. Remember henna paste to have a flexible consistency while ing the growth of skin cells, treating eczema and henna is a plant and the powder needs to be sticking to you or your client’s skin for longer psoriasis. Lavender is used as an anti-depressant refrigerated or store in the freezer for optimal periods—add it! But be sure not to add too and the chemical properties in lavender has been results. Most often, when you go to your local much sugar, because too much sugar can make demonstrated to have anti-anxiety, stress reduc- India stores, you will find that the henna cones, your henna paste runny and unmanageable, espe- ing effects. Diffused lavender oil has also been 15 powders, and hair dyes not stored properly. form and dissolve it in liquid.”13 Both powdered cially in humid environments. reported to relieve tension headaches. Never add more than one ounce (30 ml) of Acidic Liquids citric acid and lemon juice helps the lawsone dye Lavender and Tea Tree Essential Oils You will need a liquid acidic base to turn the molecules to be processed from the henna in Essential oils are a key ingredient and neces- oil per 100 grams of henna, because too much henna powder into a professional grade paste. a slow and controlled way. A slow orderly dye sary if you want to make the best henna paste. oil can cause irritations to the skin. Please do not You can use black tea, soda, lemon or orange release creates the best henna paste that does Both lavender and tea tree oils embrace potent ingest oils internally; these oils are for external juice, coffee, or rinds; but out of all the not breakdown too quickly. staining properties called alcohols, use only. While they might smell good, they actu- choices, I highly recommend freshly squeezed If you want the best henna paste do not use which make these oils powerful and heavy- ally taste nasty and can be harmful to your inter- lemon juice that is strained or store brought water or tea because the dye release time can duty. Monoterpene alcohols help suspend more nal organs. Also if you are going to create henna bottled lemon juice because it is the most harm- be radically unstable leading to poor henna stains lawsone dye in the henna paste insuring a darker, designs for small children and pregnant women, always use lavender oil and nothing else in your less and most effective. Another viable alternative and dull colors. You do not want henna paste that richer, and high quality stain for body art.14 Henna is citric acid, Art therapist Rev. Julia Lawrence has cheap quality staining properties when work- artists call these monoterpene alcohols ‘terps,’ henna paste. states, “You can purchase citric acid in powdered ing with a client because it will lead to problems. and their favorite terp is lavender oil. Lavender oil

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Do you want to make the best henna paste that creates long lasting and dark stains, which last up to three weeks? Making the perfect henna paste is like oil painting. Like oil painting, the technique and process of making henna paste can take time to perfect. This section will teach you how to make professional quality henna paste for hair and body art use. It took me about three years of experimen- tation to find to the perfect recipe. Therefore, if you are making henna paste for the first time, I suggest not mixing the entire bag at once so you can experiment. I do not know how many times I have wasted money, and messed up on The Ultimate Henna Recipe clients because I made the recipe wrong. For best results, it is mandatory that you begin to prepare your henna paste about 48 hours before you This classic Neoclassical oil painting ‘Napoleon Crossing need to use it because timing is essential for viva- the Alps’ by Jacques-Louis David took a long time to cious long-lasting and high quality henna stains. create. Traditional oil painting requires the artist to use thin layers of , in which the oil paint has to dry If you prepare the henna paste during the warm for long periods of time. months, you will need around 24 hours, but if it is cool outside you will need to start preparing the encounter at your local grocery store. Please henna recipe around 48 hours in advance. scan this recipe carefully before beginning to In addition to henna, this formula uses make your own henna paste to better under- conventional items you will commonly have in stand the process in a more fluent manner. your kitchen pantry and materials that you will However, here is the list of ingredients.

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For every 100 grams of high quality henna powder, you will need: • A large bottle of lemon juice, or the comparable amount in freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice • 30ml bottle or 4tsp of lavender or tea tree essential oil • A measuring cup • A medium to large size cheap plastic container that you do not mind getting dirty • A few cheap plastic spoons • One to two tablespoons of glucose powder or granulated sugar • Saran wrap or plastic wrap • A warm place

Note: 100 grams of henna powder will make enough paste to produce 75-200 small to medium sized . However, if you are creat- ing elaborate tattoos like bridal pieces, it will make about 3-10 large designs.

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Step 1. Carefully pour about 70% of the henna powder Step 2. Measure out four to six ounces of lemon juice. Step 3. Pour four to six ounces of lemon juice into the Step 4. Stir it with a plastic spoon. The mixture should into a plastic bowl. bowl, gently layering it in to the henna powder. have a texture comparable to thick mashed potatoes. If the henna mixture is too dry, you can add an extra ounce of two of lemon juice until the correct texture.

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Step 5. Flatten and level the surface of henna mixture Step 6. It is time to set the plastic wrapped bowl in a with a plastic spoon, and then tightly cover the henna warm area. I often set my henna mixture to brew on top with a sheet of plastic wrap. Additionally, tightly wrap of a window seal in the sun or by the vent if the heater the bowl with two or three extra layers of plastic wrap. is on, or even inside my car by the window. Anywhere Wrapping the bowl with additional layers of plastic wrap in the house or patio is good as long as it is reasonably helps trap the heat and makes the henna have stronger warm or soaking up the sun rays from outside. staining properties at the end.

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Step 7. After about 6- 12 hours if it is during warmer Step 8. Stir the henna mixture. Using a plastic spoon, Step 10. Alter the thickness of the henna paste by Step 11. Re-wrap the bowl with three layers of plastic months, or 15- 24 hours if it is during the cooler blend in two plastic spoonful’s of lavender or tea tree integrating in additional henna powder or extra lemon wrap and then leave the bowl in a warm spot for an months, return back to the place where you left your essential oil and three more ounces of lemon juice juice. If the henna mixture becomes runny, you can additional 6- 12 hours if it is warm and 12- 24 hours if henna mixture; unwrap the excess layers of plastic wrap; until all of it has been fully incorporated into the henna always add in extra henna powder. Remember you only it is cool. and gently scrape a plastic spoon across the surface mixture. However, you may want to add slightly more or used about 70% of your henna powder at the beginning of the henna mixture. This is an extremely important less essential oil according to your inclinations. Now, you of this recipe. As of now, your henna paste should have step, because the color of the henna will tell you if you should notice that the texture has become smoother. the same texture and consistency as the yogurt you buy can proceed on to the next step or wait longer. If it is at the grocery store. Step 9. This next step is optional. However, if you would time to advance to the next step, you will notice that like to proceed, add a half to one tablespoon full of the exposed surface—or layer that is on the top—is granulated sugar, and blend the henna mixture until the browner and the henna beneath the exposed part is texture changes. The sugar will visually make the henna greener. In some henna mixtures, the visual transforma- brew become smoother, silky, and lustrous. tion is extremely evident, in others, it is less obvious.

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Step 14. Or you can store your henna paste in the freezer for up to a year or the refrigerator up to a week. Yet, make sure that your henna paste is stored in an airtight container or in plastic bags because the strong scent from the essential oils can contaminate your food.

Step 12. After the recommended time, graze the Step 13. Your henna is now ready to put into cones or surface of the henna again with a spoon to verify that bottles and ready to use! there is a color difference. If there, is a difference in color in that the top layer is brown and the henna beneath the exposed part is green, it is time stir the henna brew one last time.

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