AROUND SOUTHWEST MONTANA 2020 EDITION 2 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 Now’s your chance to enjoy all southwest IN AND Montana has to o er here’s no question about it: It’s a different kind of summer in southwest Montana. AROUND The events we love, from the Montana Folk Festival and An Rí Rá to Shakespeare in the Park, are canceled. But that doesn’t mean Tthere’s not plenty to see and do. With far fewer visitors from outside the state expected and many ambitious vacation plans curtailed, this year we decided to use this opportunity to remind Montanans of the joys in our own back yard. There’s more to see and do than we could get to in a year of summers. And lots of places we’ve been, we Mountain ranges surround Butte on three sides. love so much we go back over and over — from the Big Look to the north to see the Anaconda Range, Hole National Battlefield to Virginia City to the World heading south are the Highlands, and on the eastside Museum of Mining in Butte. is a close-up view of the East Ridge. • But there is so We’ve got all that and more in this section — so many much more to see. things within easy driving distance that will produce lifelong memories. For those in-state travelers who like to avoid the Once the largest truck- the coronavirus. In order to crowd — this summer is your chance! operated open pit copper protect the community and We’ve also included some less-well-known gems that mine in the United States, the vendors, the market will could make a perfect stop on your southwest Montana the Berkeley Pit viewing be redesigned to foster social itinerary — places like Tizer Gardens near Boulder. stand will be open from distancing and also encour- Washoe Park in Anaconda. The Lewis & Clark murals in 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday- age enhanced sanitation. Whitehall. The list goes on. Saturday, and 9 a.m. to Foot traffic will be restricted We’d urge you to check on events and locations before 5 p.m., Sunday. Hours are to one way flowing west you leave to make sure things are open given this year’s subject to change with to east and customers can circumstances. But we’re confident you’ll find lots to COVID-19 and weather. return to the west end on savor around southwest Montana, from great cafes to The one-time home of the adjacent sidewalks but once-in-a-lifetime outdoor experiences. Sen. William A. Clark, the not through the center of Use this guide to make sure you get the most out of Copper King Mansion at the market to help improve your southwest Montana road trip! 219 W. Granite St., is open social distancing in the mar- for guided tours through ket. The entrance will be at Sept. 30. Tour times are Dakota and West Park Street. 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m., and The Granite Moun- 3:30 p.m. The tour lasts just tain-Speculator Mine over an hour and the cost Memorial, dedicated in is $10. 1996, honors an estimated Anaconda | 8 Ennis | 30 Directly behind the East 166 miners who were killed Big Hole National Philipsburg | 22 Ridge is a popular camp- when a fire broke out June ground and picnic area at 8, 1917. It remains America’s Battlefield | 15 Pioneer Scenic Byway | 13 Delmoe Lake, a man-made worst hard-rock mining Big Hole area | 14 Ruby Valley | 31 reservoir. It’s a great place disaster. The site of the Boulder | 12 St. Timothy’s Chapel | 11 for a day trip, picnic and all, memorial also gives visitors or to just camp out under spectacular views of not Butte | 4 Three Forks | 21 the stars. only the East Ridge, but the Butte Farmers Market | 7 Virginia City |18 Farmers Market is Highlands as well. Turn east Deer Lodge | 24 Virginia City Players | 19 from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sat- at the directional sign at the urdays through Oct. 3. The top of Main Street, north Dillon | 28 Whitehall | 26 open-air fresh produce of the historic St. Lawrence market has been a sure sign O’Toole Church. ON THE COVER: of summer in Uptown Butte Take a scenic drive since 1995. There will be through the winding Mon- The Tobacco Root Mountains are snow-capped along several important changes tana Highway 2, known Montana Highway 41 on a cloudy spring afternoon in in how the market oper- locally as Harding High- southwest Montana. ates this year to respond way, which leads you to Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard to the continuing threat of Pipestone and Whitehall. Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 3
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To learn more and conveniently schedule online, visit SCLHealth.org/SWMT-primarycare Boulder Clinic 406-225-4201 | Butte Clinic 406-496-3600 4 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
A paved walkway winds around Maney Lake at Sheepshead Recreation Area in Elk Park located North of Butte.
Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard
The historic byway was named in honor of President War- ren G. Harding, who visited Butte in 1923. If you are look- ing for a relatively quick place to hike, head to the High- lands. Admired by many from a dis- tance, the mountain range is The Humbug Spires trail south of Butte also a popular hiking desti- varies in steepness as it stretches up the nation. Don’t be surprised geologically vertical granite. to find some historic gems along the way. The highest peak is Table Mountain, at Belmont, Travona, Moun- The Copper King Mansion located on Granite Street in Butte. 10,223 feet. tain Con, Kelley, Badger, Highland View, Diamond, the Granite mood to commune with water and restrooms, too. If Butte’s municipal golf Mountain, Lexington, and nature, Humbug Spires you are fixing to feed a crew, course, is located in Stodden Orphan Girl. may just be the place to there are some picnic tables, Park. To set up a tee time, No overnight camping go. The Wedge is its largest along with some grills. call 406-497-6578. Opened is allowed at Homestake spire and is 500 feet tall. Check out the numer- daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Lake, but if you and your Located around 24 miles ous wildflowers, birds and Speaking of mines, family are just looking for a south of Butte, it is located other wildlife on the trails at take a tour of the Butte Hill, day of fun, there are picnic between the Highlands and Maude S Canyon on Butte’s where historic headframes tables in the area. Do a little the Pioneers. East Ridge. Yes, there’s lots still stand as majestic sym- fishing or take in the sce- On the left-hand side of of rocks along the way, but bols of the “richest hill on nic trails. Elk Park you will find Low- there are lush forest lands, earth.” They include the If rock climbing is your land Campground, which abandoned railroad tracks, Original, Steward, Anselmo, thing or you’re just in the has 11 campsites, drinking and as an added bonus, hikers Playground equipment designed Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 5 to look like the haul trucks used in the open pit mine in Butte is one of the many new features added to Stodden Park in Butte.
get a perfect view of Butte. Drive up to Elk Park, turn left and keep driving until you reach Sheepshead Recreation Area, which will open Memorial Day weekend. Not only is there an abundance of pine trees, flowers and more than a few streams, it also includes pavilions, picnic tables and grills. Paved trails are an added addition, along with ball fields and a place to compete in horseshoes. Head off to one of Butte’s many city parks — whether it be Stodden, Clark, Copper Mountain, Chester Steele, McGruff, Koprivica, The Beaver Ponds Trail in or Foreman. Spend the Thompson Park located day enjoying the summer south of Butte. weather and the ameni- ties offered. Out around the Nine Mile, head to Thompson Park, which offers trails for walking, biking and horse- disc golf course at Eagles through Saturday at 10 a.m., your hometown by taking a back riding. Interpretive Nest, too. 12:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. Sun- walk, not only through the signs can be found sharing Trolley tours have day tours are at 10 a.m. and business district, but all with one and all the park’s commenced. Tour historic 12:30 p.m. To reserve a spot, throughout the uptown to history. Although there is no Butte on Old Number 1. call 406-723-3177. view the unique architecture, overnight camping, there are Tours (90 minutes) start There is a very good where it be retail business several picnic areas for fami- at the Butte-Silver Bow reason why Uptown Butte shops, churches, or resi- lies and friends to utilize. If Chamber of Commerce, is on the National Register of dences. Yes, there are man- you like a challenge, try the 1000 George St., Monday Historic Places. Rediscover sions on West Park Street, 6 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
A sign marks Thompson Park Recreation Area in the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest located south of Butte.
Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard
but they may be considered Blacktail Creek Trail Celebrating Butte’s mining history, just the icing on the cake. starts at Father Sheehan View all the architectural Park, passes under Har- the World Museum of Mining styles that Uptown Butte rison Avenue, through the opened its doors 55 years ago and has to offer, whether it be Butte-Silver Bow Chamber includes a museum, mine and a neo-classical, Queen Anne, of Commerce, and again goes replica of a mining town. If all goes Italianate, Victorian, cottage, underneath Harrison Ave- as planned, the museum will be or craftsman bungalow. nue, and ends as the Civic offering tours this summer. There are several walk- Center Trail begins. Provided ing trails throughout Butte. Civic Center Trail is A detailed map can be found near the Butte Civic Center. on the Butte-Silver Bow Park at Civic Center Road County website. Some of and Texas Avenue. these trails include: Head up to the Moun- From the Alice Over- tain Con Mine, which look trail, walkers can look includes two miles of paved out and see the mountain walking trails. Stay awhile ranges of not only the at Foreman Park where there Highlands and the East are picnic facilities. Ridge, but the Pioneers and Montana Tech Bike the Pintlers. Nearby is the Park Trail includes an Granite Mountain-Specula- 18-basket disc golf course. tor Memorial. If you are into bird The Butte, Anaconda watching, go on down to the & Pacific Railway Hill Silver Bow Creek Green- Trail goes from Wyoming way, where there plenty to Street all the way to Rocker, watch and photograph, too. with the Anselmo Mine, Skyline Park is the Montana Tech and the World newest addition to Butte’s Museum of Mining situated park systems, with easy trails in between. and a kids’ fishing pond. Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 7 FARMERS MARKET The Butte Farmers Market A variety of arts and crafts will be in full bloom in Uptown by people from throughout Meagan Thompson,, The Montana Standard Butte every Saturday through southwest Montana are also The Butte Farmers Market offers fresh produce, other foods, all kinds of plants and a Oct. 3, offering fresh produce, available each Saturday. variety of arts and crafts. Vendors line up from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. every Saturday on both other foods, all kinds of plants The market is a great place sides of West Park Street between Gamers Café and the Phoenix Building. and a variety of arts and crafts. to get Flathead cherries in Vendors line up every Satur- mid- to late-July and melons customers will be to advised center of the market to help day on both sides of West Park in August. Some Montana to wear masks and follow fre- improve social distancing. Street between Gamer’s Café family-owned cherry orchards quent hand washing protocols. Free parking again will be and the Phoenix Building from make a point to have their fruit This season, only pre- encouraged in the county 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. on site. approved vendors will be parking garage but only at the Since 1995, the Butte Farm- This year will encompass allowed to set up. The overall Galena Street entrance for the ers Market has been providing several important changes number of non-food vendors lower level. shoppers with colorful and in how the market operates will be reduced. To reduce contacts for their hardy hanging and bedding to respond to the continuing Except for service animals, most vulnerable customers plants, farm fresh eggs, and threat of COVID-19 coronavi- dogs and other pets will be who would still like to place an fruits and vegetables from rus to protect the community. discouraged from being inside order with a vendor and have gardens in the Butte area, The market will be redesigned the market. it delivered to their vehicles, the Hutterite colonies near to maintain social distancing The entrance will be at they can call or text 406-565- Choteau and Hmong vegetable among vendors and customers Dakota and West Park Street. 2249 and the market coordi- gardens in the Missoula and and will encourage enhanced The route through the market nator will contact the vendor the Bitterroot area. sanitation. will be restricted to a path that and broker the purchase and Vendors also offer a wide Vendors and customers will is one way flowing west to delivery. Messages can also variety of baked goods, pack- be asked to maintain physical east. Customers can return to be delivered to their Facebook aged sausages, cut flowers, distance of at least six feet at the west end on the adjacent page at www.facebook.com/ salsa and other prepared foods. all times. Both vendors and sidewalks but not through the ButteFM. 8 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Sunshine and clouds pass over Georgetown Lake on a spring afternoon at a day use area.
Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard
IN AND AROUND
estled in a val- from practically sunrise to Goodman City Park, which USFS Sunnyside fish- ley surrounded sunset. The nine-hole course also features a baseball field, ing access by the tower- includes Mill Creek and three pavilion, playground and a Spring Hill Campground ing Pintlers, man-made ponds. For tee skate park. and Picnic Area Anaconda was times, call 406-797-3220. Check out the camp- The Copper Village Nfounded in 1883 by Copper Anaconda Smoke grounds in and around Museum and Arts Cen- King Marcus Daly. Stack Park features Ana- Georgetown Lake: Philips- ter, which is free to visit, is Anaconda, like Butte, was conda’s famous brick smelter burg Bay Campground located in the Anaconda City a company town. And like stack, which is 585 feet tall. Rainbow Bay Picnic Hall Cultural Center. This Butte, Anaconda has weath- The stack is listed in the Area and Campground historic building was rescued ered many a storm. There are National Register of Historic Piney Campground and from being demolished. It is many things to see and do in Places. Visitors can learn Picnic Area now renovated, and is pres- Anaconda, and just a short more about the stack’s vast Stuart Mill ently on the National Reg- drive away, the vast wilder- history by reading the inter- Bay Campground ister of Historic Places. The ness awaits. pretive signs found within USFS Cable Moun- Museum and Arts Center Deemed unique as well the park. tain Campground offers visual arts exhibitions as challenging, the Ana- In the mood for a Flint Creek Campground of tradition and heritage arts, conda Country Club Golf picnic? Want to host a Comers Point fish- world arts, and Montana Course is opened every day barbecue? Head to Benny ing access contemporary artists. The Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 9
A map of the Old Works is carved in a giant rock at the entrance to the famous golf course in Anaconda.
Marcus Daly Historical Soci- feet high, is set in a glaci- ety Museum and Archives ated canyon of limestone and and a retail gift shop are also granite cliffs populated with located in the City Hall Cul- mountain goats and bighorn tural Center. sheep. Location: 1.5 miles Take a trip out to Echo east of Anaconda on Mon- Lake, where you will find tana 1, then 2 miles north on public access to the lake and Secondary 273, then 6 miles picnic tables. From Route west. Features: camping, 1, about half way along fishing, hiking, picnicking, Georgetown Lake, turn NW rest rooms, disabled access. onto Southern Cross Rd. Lost Creek State Park is After about ¾ mile, stay left known for its stunning grey onto Echo Lake Road, then limestone cliffs and pink and go about 2.2 miles and make white granite formations a left at the sign toward the rising 1,200 feet high above lake. Stay on the road around the canyon’s floor. Numer- the lake until arriving to the ous activities offered include western shore. bicycling, viewing wildlife, Approximately 18 miles camping, fishing, and pic- west of Anaconda, George- nicking. town Lake is a popular The Mount Haggin Book your tee time at recreation area for boating, Wildlife Management fishing, hiking, camping Area, located about 10 WWW.PLAYOLDWORKS.COM and much, much more. To miles south of Anaconda, the north is the Flint Creek is reached by Route 274. Range and look to the south It crosses the Continental and there are the Pintlers. Divide through Mill Creek 406.563.5989 Unlike Silver Lake, fishing Pass into the Big Hole River enthusiasts would be hard drainage with views of the 1205 PIZZINI WAY ANACONDA pressed not to catch at least Anaconda Range and oppor- one rainbow or a brook trout. tunities to view moose, elk, MT 59711 Lost Street State deer, antelope, black bear, Park/Lost Creek Falls, 50 birds, beaver, muskrat, mink, 10 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Warm Springs Creek winds through Washoe Park in Anaconda.
Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard
martens and coyotes. encouraged. Designed by golf legend Located east of George- Jack Nicklaus, Old Works is town Lake you will find an 18-hole golf course that the ghost town, Southern was built atop the old Ana- Cross. Overlooking George- conda copper smelter. It has town Lake, at one time a 7,705-yard 18-hole track the old mining camp had a that incorporates historic population nearing 500. artifacts on the site that long There are some recre- ago was a copper smelter. ational trails worth men- Tee times can be made by tioning, including: calling 406-563-5989. Copper Trail: Anacon- The picturesque loop da’s Historic Copper Trail on Montana 1, known as is a 1.7 mile fairly populated the Pintler Scenic Route, trail that offers scenic views runs through Anaconda, and is achievable for all skill Georgetown Lake, the Flint levels. The trail is used for Creek Range and Philipsburg walking, nature trips, and to Drummond. bird watching, and is best The reservoir known used from May until Sep- as Silver Lake is about 13 tember. Dogs are also able miles from Anaconda, with to use this trail but must be an average depth of 100 feet. kept on a leash. While there are fish in the Upper and Lower Old lake, they are either well- Works Trail: Take a hike on hidden or not too abundant. this trail that offers beauti- For skateboard enthu- ful views of Anaconda and siasts, there is the Smelter Old Works Golf Course. City Skate Pit, which was Discover historical artifacts Pat Hansen photo built in 2005. Located in from Anaconda’s mining Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the stack at Anaconda Smoke Stack Goodman Park, roller skat- past. There are numerous State Park may be viewed and photographed only from a distance. ers enjoy it, too. Helmets are descriptive signs offering Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 11 views into Anaconda’s rich mining history. St. Timothy’s Chapel The Four Mile Basin at Georgetown Lake Trailhead: The Fourmile offers a summer Basin Trail is located 1.7 concert series. miles up the Twin Lakes Trail #44. At that point, Fourmile Basin goes right and Twin Lakes Trail #44 goes left. Both trails end at scenic mountain lakes. Once onto Fourmile Basin, people will follow the logging road turned-single track for 1.5 miles. Beyond this point is the original pre-logging single track. At 2.4 miles, hikers will arrive at the lake. Beyond the lake bikes are not allowed, the trail past here will be less trafficked. Just north of Anaconda is the Warm Springs Ponds. The creeks of Warm Springs, Mill, Willow and Silver Bow converge at the ponds. If you are a runner, hiker or want to take a spin on your bicycle, this would be the perfect place to go. If fishing is what you most enjoy, taken an opportunity to stop here. There’s more than a good chance you’ll get a fish or two. The Anaconda Cop- per Mining Co. founded Washoe Park in 1906 on the northern edge of Ana- conda. It is home to a state fish hatchery, tennis courts, playground and picnic areas, duck pond, horseshoe pits, volleyball court, with the crystal waters of Warm Springs Creek flowing through its midst. CHAPELt. Timothy’s Chapel is the listed below. The Washoe Park venue for a series of summer June 28 – Open Range Trout Hatchery is the old- concerts. All performances July 12 – Montana Chamber est in the state and started begin at 4 p.m. and take Music Society with Muir members in 1907, with help from the place on Sundays. and guests Anaconda Copper Mining SThe chapel, at 7,000 feet high July 26 – Pam Drews Phillips Co. The hatchery has raised above Georgetown Lake, is dedicated Aug. 9 – Chinook Winds Arctic grayling, westslope to the memory of Timothy Bowman. Aug. 23 – Charlotte Dike Trio cutthroat trout, rainbow The intimate concert setting hosts The music festival website, https:// trout, brook trout, golden Montana musicians who have per- sttimothysmusic.org/ will have the trout, lake trout and brown formed on both national and interna- most current information on any trout. It now manages Mon- tional stages. changes to the season. Also, com- tana’s only westslope cut- To purchase tickets or to get more munications of any decisions will be throat broodstock, produc- details on the concert series, visit posted to the website, on the Music ing more than one million the Festival’s website: www.sttimo- Festival’s Facebook page, submitted eggs per year. Call 406-563- thysmusic.org. Season tickets are to local newspapers, and via emails to 2531 for details. $75. Individual concert tickets are the Festival’s email list. Any questions also sold. should be directed in email to music@ This summer’s concert schedule is sttimothysmusic.org. 12 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Left: Elkhorn was a silver mining town established in 1872.
Montana State Parks photo
Gillian Hall nestled within the privately owned town of Elkhorn. Bring your camera to record these two pictur- esque structures from the early-day silver-mining difficult. The trail is essen- ghost town, preserved as out- tially used for hiking, off road standing examples of frontier driving, and snowshoeing and architecture. Each has been is most used May through recorded in the Historic October. Dogs are allowed on American Buildings Survey. IN AND the trail. Bicycling, hiking, photogra- Thunderbolt Creek phy and wildlife viewing are Trailhead features a sce- some of the activities that can nic hike on the Continental be enjoyed here. AROUND Divide Trail west of Boulder The Sunshine Health and Basin in the Helena-Deer Mine is located on 28 acres Lodge National Forest. in beautiful Jefferson County. Elder Creek Picnic Area RV sites and one and two near Boulder offers a nice bedroom cabins are available. place to enjoy a picnic. From This historic radon mine is a Boulder go 1.5 miles southwest feature and is used by many and take Forest Road 8528 to guests as alternative treat- Forest Road 86 and continue 5 ment for a variety of illnesses. miles to the picnic area. Visits and trips to the health Muskrat Creek Trail is a mine are by appointment only he vibrant small picnicking sites. Also, the nearly 13-mile route. From the at this time. town of Boulder is Boulder River offers a great start, it’s a steady climb to the Tizer Gardens will be full out character, small-stream fishing experi- meadow area near the foot of open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and not far off ence. Elkhorn Peak. There are dense and Thursdays until 9 p.m. the beaten path. Galena Gulch Camp- coniferous forests, and the from June through September T Boulder is located halfway ground is a recreation site is trail is pretty well-shaded for (weather permitting). Bring between Butte and Helena on located on the Boulder River the duration. The creek that your picnics or plan your the intersection of Interstate and offers easy access to rec- runs next to this trail is never photo shoots. Entertainers are 15 and Montana Highway 69 reation opportunities on the far to dip your feet and cool welcome to share their talents — making it the perfect place river as well as the nearby off. After climbing around on Thursday nights, but call to stop. No matter when you town of Basin, famous for 2,000 feet, a scenic meadow ahead to reserve your spot. go, you’ll likely find some- its radon health mines. Ten is a nice spot to rest. This is a General admission is $9; $7 thing going on. There are a camping units, tables and great place to have a snack or for children 5-12; and children number of state parks within fire rings, restroom, park- picnic and turn around. All of 4 and under get in free. Tizer a short drive from Boulder. ing area, information kiosk. the climbing is rewarded with Gardens is 18 miles south of The most well-known is Elk- Open all year weather per- breathtaking nature on this Helena on I-15 to Exit 176 at horn State Park. Now a ghost mitting. Limit is 14 day stay well-built trail with various Jefferson City. Turn left to town, the once populated for camping visitors. rock features everywhere. east side of Interstate and settlement during Montana’s Elkhorn and Crow Elkhorn State Park then right on to Hwy 282. silver boom, has examples Peak Trail is a 6.1 mile has a 19th century mining The gardens are only 1.2 miles of old western architecture trail that features gorgeous landscape that features the from the Interstate. (Follow and one-of-a kind hiking and wild flowers and is rated as historic Fraternity Hall and the signs.) Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 13 Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway slices right through the such as Maurice Mountain, Access to camping, middle of the U. are another 2,000 feet higher. fishing, hiking Traversing through the So even though the roadway 3.32 million acre Beaverhead- climbs considerably, visitors oads are not usu- Deerlodge National Forest, still feel overshadowed by ally destinations, the roadway climbs more the surrounding 9,000-foot- but the Pioneer than 2,000 feet in about plus peaks. Mountains Sce- 30 miles from the Big Hole This area is popular with nic Byway in drainage as it follows the summer campers, since there Rsouthwest Montana defies Wise River uphill. Along the are numerous campgrounds this logic. way it passes through a beau- along the route. In addition, This 45-mile stretch of tiful glacier-carved valley there is fishing in the Wise road, designated a scenic dotted with large meadows River as well as surrounding byway in 1989, is worth and stunning views of the mountain lakes and in Grass- driving just to view the sur- Pioneer Mountains. Watch hopper Creek on the south rounding mountains, the out for the cows, though, end of the road. Wise River and the wide as they have free access to For rockhounds, there’s a meadows. If time allows, the road. specific site along the route there are numerous side This is high, harsh country. for digging up quartz and attractions along the route Winter comes early and stays amethyst crystals at Crys- well worth visiting. late. It’s a wonder that one tal Park, 26 miles from the The roadway slices through small town along the way northern start of the route. a little-traveled area of the wasn’t named Polar instead Still not satisfied? Visit the state. Imagine an upside- of Polaris. old mining town of Coolidge Kristie Constantine, The Montana Standard down U with the U being the The highway tops out at nestled along one of the area’s The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Big Hole River. The Pioneer more than 7,800 feet. The many backroads. The roads offers stunning scenery. Mountains Scenic Byway tips of surrounding peaks, are also popular with ATVers.
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Pre-order your share of the catch at www.kvichakfish.com 14 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 BIG HOLE RIVER AND WISE RIVER he stretch of the campground. acres of area. From the inter- camping, picnic tables, toilets, Big Hole River Canyon Creek Camp- section of Montana Highway drinking water and parking. from Divide to ground — There are three 43 and the Pioneer Mountains Travel 11 miles west from Wise Wise River along sites at this campground. Area Scenic Byway travel south on River on Highway 43. Take Highway 43 offers amenities include tent camp- 73 for approximately 13 miles State Highway 569 north for Tplenty of access for fishing ing, trailer camping, toilets to the campground. 3½ miles, then Forest Service or floating and scenic views. and picnic tables. There is no Mono Creek Camp- Road 934 northwest for eight At Wise River you can head fee for this campground. This ground — There five sites at miles to the campground. south along the Pioneer Scenic is a small campground with this campground. The fees Willow Campground — Byway to Polaris or continue three tent sites west of Mel- are $8 per night. Area ameni- There are five camp sites and on Highway 43 to Wisdom and rose in the Pioneer Mountains. ties include tent camping, the fee is $8 per night. Area Jackson to see all that the Big From Melrose travel west trailer camping, picnic tables, amenities include tent camp- Hole Valley has to offer. on Forest Service Road 187 toilets, drinking water and ing, trailer camping, picnic for about 13 miles, then turn parking. A campground that tables, toilets, drinking water Wise River area southeast on Forest Road 7401 covers two acres of forested and parking. From the inter- Wise River sits amid peaks, for approximately 4.5 miles to area. From the intersection section of Montana Highway lakes and headwaters in the the campground. of Montana Highway 43 and 43 and the Pioneer Mountains Pioneer Mountains and offers Fourth of July Camp- the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Scenic Byway travel south on some spectacular scenery in ground — There are six sites Byway travel south on 73 for 73 for approximately 14 miles the Beaverhead-Deerlodge at this campground. Area approximately 22 miles to For- to the campground. National Forest. Enjoy camp- amenities include tent camp- est Service Road 2465. Travel The town of Coolidge, ing, fishing, and hiking, along ing, trailer camping, picnic southeast one mile to the now a ghost town, was devel- with beautiful scenic drives in tables, toilets and drinking campground. oped in the 1920s around the this area of Montana. water. The nightly fee is $8. Pettengill Campground impressive Elkhorn Mill. A The Pioneer Mountains Open and sunny, this camp- — There are three sites at this narrow gauge railway carried Scenic Byway — This scenic ground is in an ideal setting. campground. The nightly fee ore to Divide and the Oregon drive offers 40-miles of back- From the intersection of is $6. Area amenities include Shortline Railway for ship- country driving that cross the Montana Highway 43 and the tent camping, trailer camping, ment out of state. Pioneer Mountains between Pioneer Mountains Scenic toilets and drinking water. Crystal Park features pic- Montana Highway 43 and Byway proceed south on 73 for This campground is named nicking and digging for quartz Highway 278. Enjoy scenic approximately 12 miles to the after an early homesteader, the crystals and amethyst. Opens drives, camping, hiking, fish- campground. “Wild Man of the Mountains” in June depending on weather, ing, ghost towns and digging Little Joe Campground George Pettingill. His grave is 406-683-3900. crystals in the summer. — There are five sites at this nearby. He is widely admired Listed below are recreation campground. The nightly fee in the area. The campground Wisdom area sites, parks and scenic drives is $8. Area amenities include is located where the Wise The small town of Wisdom, that can be taken in this area. tent camping, trailer camp- River meets Pettengill Creek. surrounded by the Ana- Boulder Creek Camp- ing, picnic tables, toilets From the intersection of conda Range and the Pioneer ground — There are 13 camp and drinking water. A small Montana Highway 43 and the Mountains, is a paradise for sites at this campground. but nice campground. From Pioneer Mountains Scenic ranchers, sportsmen and rec- Area amenities include tent the intersection of Mon- Byway travel south on 73 for reationists. Often called the camping, camping trailer, tana Highway 43 and the approximately 10 miles to the ‘valley of 10,000 haystacks’ toilets, drinking and water. Pioneer Mountains Scenic campground. the area offers access to hik- The nightly fee is $8. Boulder Byway travel south on 73 for Pintler Campground — ing, fishing, camping and Creek Campground is located approximately 21 miles to the There are three sites at this high-mountain lakes. From along the Pioneer Mountain campground. There are five campground. There is no Wisdom follow Highway 278 Scenic Byway. It is a high camping sites at this spot. nightly fee. Area amenities to Jackson and beyond to elevation campground that Lodgepole Campground include tent camping, trailer experience the Big Hole Valley. is heavily wooded. There is a — There are 10 sites at this camping, picnic tables, toilets, Big Hole Valley Scenic fee charged for some activi- campground. The fee is $8 per drinking water and parking. drive — The Big Hole Val- ties. From the intersection of night. Area amenities include Seymour Creek Camp- ley and River scenic drive Montana Highway 43 and the tent camping, trailer camp- ground — There are 17 sites is an 82 mile trip that takes Pioneer Mountains Scenic ing, picnic tables, toilets and at this campground. There is people through one of the Byway travel south on 73 for drinking water. A basic, small no nightly fee. Area amenities most spectacular valleys in approximately 13 miles to the campground that covers two include tent camping, trailer Montana. Highlights include the Big Hole Valley, the Big Douglas firs. Steel Creek flows Hole River, Wisdom, and through the campground. great views of the Pioneer Area amenities include tent Mountains and Beaver- camping, areas for camping head Mountains. trailers, picnic tables, toilets, Big Hole Battlefield — Big drinking water and parking. Hole National Battlefield From Wisdom go north for a is located 10 miles west of quarter-mile to Steel Creek Wisdom on Highway 43. The Road and continue for 9 miles visitor center is temporarily to the campground. There is closed due to COVID-19. But no garbage service at this site The Big Hole National Battlefield is a memorial to the people who fought and died all places in the battlefield so please pack out what you there Aug. 9-10, 1877, combatants in a five-month conflict that came to be called the are open for people to view pack in. RVs up to 22-feet are Nez Perce War. Army troops under the command of Gen. Oliver Howard attacked the and experience. For more welcome. There is a 16 day Nez Perce camp before dawn. Some 60 Nez Perce were killed and 29 soldiers. information, contact Big Hole stay limit on this campground. National Battlefield at 406- Twin Lakes Campground 689-3155, or visit www.nps. — There are 21 sites in this gov/biho. campground in the trees and May Creek Campground along the lake shore. The area — There are 21 sites at this is located on fairly flat ground campground. Area amenities surrounded by lodgepole include tent camping, camp- pines. All sites are a short walk ing trailer, picnic tables, toilets from the shores of both lakes NATIONAL and drinking water. There and most sites have a view is a $7 per night fee at this of the 75-acre Twin Lakes. campground. From Wisdom Area amenities include boat travel West on Highway 43 for ramp, tent camping, areas BATTLEFIELD 17 miles. There are established for camping trailers, picnic The Big Hole National trail with no elevation gain. fire pits at each site. Firewood tables, toilets, drinking water Battlefield is located 10 The surface is packed dirt is not provided. Sites are and parking. There is a $7 miles west of Wisdom on and could be muddy in the available on a first come, first per night. The campground Highway 43 and is man- early summer, and rutted served basis. You can fish May is located about seven miles aged by the National Park later in the season. Hik- Creek, which flows across the south of Wisdom on Highway Service It encompasses ers should keep an eye out west side of the campground. 278. Take Twin Lakes Road for more than 570 acres. The for ground squirrel holes, For more details, Wisdom seven miles. Then Forest Road Nez Perce War battlefield which can easily be stepped Ranger District 406-689- 945 for five miles. Take For- is a memorial to the people into. The trail takes around 3243. est Road 183 for five miles to who fought and died on an hour to complete. Mussigbrod Camp- the campground. There is no the land on Aug. 9-10, The Siege Area Trail ground — There are 10 sites garbage service at this site so 1877. Hours are 10 a.m. to is 1.2 mile round-trip and at this campground. It is please pack out what you pack 5 p.m. Wednesday through climbs about 50 feet in located in a dense lodgepole in. RVs up to 25 foot are wel- Sunday. Admission is free elevation. The trail takes 45 pine on the western shore of come. There is a 16 day stay year round. minutes to complete. Visi- the 102 acre Mussigbrod Lake. limit at this campground. Lake For more information, tors can look at rifle pits Area amenities include tent and pond fishing available. contact Big Hole National dug by the soldiers and see camping, areas for camping Listed below are loca- Battlefield at 406-689- the monument dedicated trailers, picnic tables, toilets tions on the Big Hole River 3155, visit www.nps.gov/ to the Seventh U.S. Infan- and drinking water. There is a with fishing access: biho, or on Facebook try soldiers. $7 per night fee for this camp- Mile 81 — Fishtrap https://www.facebook. The Howitzer Trail ground. There is no garbage Mile 78 — Sports- com/BigHoleNational- leads to the site where nimí service at this site. Pack out man Park Battlefield/. warriors captured a what you pack in. Camp sites Mile 57 — Dewey/ Due to COVID- 19 Mountain Howitzer Can- are available on a first come, George Grant restrictions the visitor cen- non from the military. A first served basis. RVs up to Mile 57 — Green- ter will be closed until fur- replica cannon greets hik- 30 feet are welcomed. There wood Bottoms ther notice. All the hiking ers who make it to the site. is a 16 day stay limit at this Mile 52 — Powerhouse trails and the Battlefield It is less than a mile trail off campground. There is lake, Mile 48 — Maidenrock remain open to the public. of the Siege Area trail that pond, and river and stream Mile 38 — Salmon Fly Below are hiking trails climbs 320 feet in eleva- fishing are all options near Mile 32 — that can be enjoyed: tion, and takes approxi- this campsite. Brownes Bridge The Nez Perce Camp mately 40 minutes to hike. Steel Creek Campground Mile 30 — Kalsta Bridge Trail leads people to the The hike can be strenuous, — There are seven camp- Mile 25 — Glen site where the sleeping Nez but the view is worth it. ing units and two with tent Mile 18 — Notch Bottom Perce were camped when pads on this ground. The Mile 9 — Penning- they were attacked by the For more information, or campground is surrounded ton Bridge Army on Aug. 9, 1877. It is a for current updates go to by lodgepole pines with a few Mile 2 — High Road 1.6 mile round-trip walking www.nps.gov/biho. 16 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Only 90 minutes from W est Yello wstone on your w ay to Glacier P a r k!
DONNIE SEXTON PHOTO An authentic gold rush town born in 1863, now frozen in time. Original buildings remain, once housed dry goods stores, gold assays, crooked lawmen and Vigilante law, now are host to restaurants, gift shops, museums, live theaters and more.
Great places to shop ... Great places to eat ... Great places to stay ... Fun things to do.
800.829.2969 www.virginiacity.com Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 17
COUSIN’S CANDY SHOP OLDEST CANDY STORE IN VIRGINIA CITY, MT
IT’S CANDYHEAVEN! Hand Dipped Chocolate • Homemade Fudge • Old Fashioned Candy • Saltwater Taffy OPEN MAY-SEPTEMBER 7 DAYS A WEEK• SEE US ON FACEBOOK! 213 W. Wallace Street, Virginia City, Montana • 406-843-5371 •VirginiaCityCandyMT.com 18 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Cabins with thatched roofs line a dirt road in Nevada City.
Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard
VIRGINIA CITY AND NEVADA CITY irginia City and shops, an old-fashioned Nevada City, candy shop and fine dining. located along The Virginia City Alder Gulch Players — The Virginia City about one mile Players Theatre Company Vapart, are the site of the was founded in 1948 and richest placer gold strike in performs authentic 19th history in the Rocky Moun- century melodramas vaude- tains, with an appraised ville variety acts in the Vir- value of $100 million ginia City Opera House. throughout the 18th and 19th Living History — See centuries. In the early 1860s, what it was like to live in the it is believed that $30 million 1860s by walking through worth of gold was retrieved the Nevada City museums. from the gulch. It is here River of Gold — At the that people can pan for gold, River of Gold, located on The boardwalk on Wallace Street is lined with historic store fronts and novelty shops in attend a live theater show, the National Historic Landmark District of Virginia City. shop in gift and specialty PLEASE SEE CITY, Page 20 Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 19 The Virginia City Players he Virginia City Players are the oldest continually operating sum- mer theater Tcompany in the Northwest. This year marks their 70th anniversary. Show times are Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays 4 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 7 p.m.; Saturdays and Sun- days 2 p.m. Ticket prices are $25 for adults; $20 for college stu- dents, military and seniors; $12 for children 17 and under. Season tickets are $54 for adults; $48 for college stu- dents, military and seniors; and $30 for children 17 and under.
The 2020 schedule is as follows: June 19-Aug. 2 — The kingdom is broke. The Queen can’t find a wealthy match for the Prince. There is hope Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard when a miller shows up, The Opera House located on Montana Highway 287 at the west entrance to historic Virginia City is home to the Virginia City Players. claiming that his daughter, Laura, can spin straw into Vaudeville in July. The 24-hours. McGee locks him- criminals and a beautiful gold. But, she can’t. Locked performance promises a self inside of Baldpate Inn newspaper reporter all dis- in a room in the castle, she “vigorous vagary of vivacious having been promised that rupt his efforts to finish his is forced to make the gold, vaudeville variety acts” all there is “ONLY ONE KEY TO book on time. Will he do it? but she needs help. Who pertaining to the Christ- BALDPATE”. Thinking he is Can he do it? And, who are comes to her aid? A mania- mas season. alone in the inn, McGee sets all these people? This play cal little “wizard” who helps Aug. 4-Sept. 6 — “Seven to task to write, undisturbed. is one of George M. Cohan’s her – at a cost. Will she be Keys to Baldpate” starts The evening quickly comes classics that you won’t want able to figure out his name when William McGee, an apart as there are more keys to miss! before time is up? His name author, takes a bet from the to Baldpate than believed. For tickets, call 800-829- is “Rumpelstiltskin.” owner of Baldpate Inn that Murder, ghosts, gun 2969 ext. 2, or email at tick- July 20 – Christmas he can’t write a novel in shots, mysterious women, [email protected].
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Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard Shops with vintage signage line the historic boardwalk of Virginia City.
and licorice. The candy store is located at 217 West Wal- CITY lace St., in historic Virginia City. Details: 406-843-5371. From 18 Fishing ponds — Enjoy some great Montana fishing Highway 287 between Vir- with the family. ginia City and Nevada City, Nevada City Old Town people can pan for their own Living History Museum gold. Also on display are the and Music Hall — The outdoor exhibits of mining outdoor museum in Nevada equipment highlighting the City houses one of the larg- Mount Vernon dredge. Shop est collections of Old West for unique gifts, rocks and artifacts outside the Smith- panning supplies. Call 406- sonian and has 100 buildings 843-5247 for details. from 1863 to the early 1900s. Thompson-Hickman The museum offers several Museum — Built in the The National Historic Landmark District in Virginia City. unique music machines, roaring 1920s, The Thomp- exhibits and artifacts to help son-Hickman museum is shop, and get a taste for what both places. you experience the time, cul- home to many of Virginia it was like to live in this his- Cousin’s Candy Shop ture and place of early Mon- City’s best artifacts. Hours toric mining town. — Cousin’s Candy Shop has tana. The experience offers a are 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily. Self-guided walking been supplying the Alder glimpse of a frontier mining Located at 220 East Wal- tours — Make your way Gulch area with the fresh- town in the height of the lace Street, in Virginia City. through the historical Vir- est and most delicious salt Gold Rush days in Nevada Details: 406-843-5238. ginia City and Nevada City. water taffy since 1992. Their City. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Virginia City Board- Go to https://virginiacitymt. variety of specialties include Monday through Friday, and walk — Take a stroll down com/walkingTour for print- many different kinds of 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday Virginia City’s boardwalk, able maps of tour spots in fudge, old fashioned candies, and Sunday, through Sept. 7. Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 21 Dotting a hillside off Montana Highway 287, the kinetic horse sculptures by Montana years, including a herd of elk artist Jim Dolan are perched on a rolling hill placed on the lawn of a bank just five miles off I-90 near Three Forks. in Bozeman, and a fly fisher- Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard man in Ennis. The picturesque Head- waters Golf Course in Three Forks is just a hop, skip and a jump away from the junction of the Gallatin, Jef- ferson and Madison Rivers. These waters join to create the majestic Missouri River. The nine-hole, public golf course, completed in 1986, features water on six of the holes and with multiple options for tee boxes this course can be both fun for the novice golfer and a challenge IN AND AROUND for the seasoned player. “Antler Man” Jim Phil- lips’ has amassed a grand total of 16,000 antlers, all of which are on display in one well-lit shed in Three Forks, Montana, in Jim’s Horn House. Phillips began hiking hree Forks pre- and amassing the collection serves its Old West as a 10-year-old boy. Phil- charm with close lips is open to the occasional accessibility to visitor but you have to ask historical and rec- him personally. His email is Treational places. Three Forks is [email protected]. Once at the heart of a broad assem- he invites you he will give you blage of exciting outdoor his address. adventures, historical sites, Lewis and Clark Cav- and unforgettable scenery. erns State Park, Montana’s Although the scenery in Three first state park, established in Forks is striking, it’s the his- 1941, provides a glance into toric sites that make this place history partnered with pres- worth a visit. Sacajawea trav- ent day adventure. The cav- eled in the area with her Sho- The south-facing slope that leads to the Lewis and Clark Caverns can be brutally hot on a erns temporarily closed due shone family before she was summer day, so this new shade shelter will be a welcome relief to tourists. to the coronavirus, but hikers kidnapped as a child by a rival can take in views of the wil- tribe. She returned five years and lofty mountains. The park clothing, shelter and provi- derness from one of several later as part of the Lewis and provides 17 campsites, tepee sions. At Madison Buffalo challenging multi-use trails. Clark expedition. In 1805, they rental, foot trails to points of Jump State Park, short walks The park also offers sweeping arrived at the forks (the Madi- interest, and interpretive dis- provide unique insights into views of the Tobacco Root son, Jefferson, and Gallatin plays of the area’s cultural and Native American culture as Mountains and over 200 spe- rivers), now in Missouri Head- natural history. River floating, well as spectacular views of cies of wildflowers. Spanning waters State Park, looking for fishing, picnicking, bicycling, the valley below. The day use 3,000 acres of land that rests the river that would lead them hiking, interpretive programs, fee is $5 per vehicle. above 4,000 feet, Lewis and to the Continental Divide. and photography are popular The Bleu Horses is a Clark Caverns State Park is The Jefferson, Madison, activities. set of 39 horse sculptures a great destination after an and Gallatin rivers merge to Located on the edge of made mainly of steel and afternoon of fishing, or a form the 2,300- mile Missouri a wide valley shaped by the forever installed on a hillside weekend of camping. A new River within the boundaries of Madison River, Madison off Highway 287 just north shade shelter has been added the 532 acres of the Missouri Buffalo Jump State Park of Three Forks. The name of for the elderly or people Headwaters State Park. has an elevated limestone the sculpture is rooted from a with disabilities. Lewis and Meriwether Lewis once wrote cliff that was used for 2,000 color of horse known as a blue Clark Caverns State Park is that the country opens sud- years by Native Americans. It roan. Artist Jim Dolan of Bel- located about 13 miles west denly to extensive and beauti- allowed them to guide stam- grade created and set up the of Three Forks off Highway ful plains and meadows which peding herds of bison in large horse sculptures. Dolan has 287, or about 50 miles east appear to be surrounded in numbers off a cliff, making created other unique outdoor of Butte. Campsites may be every direction with distant use of the buffalo for food, sculptures over the past 30 reserved online. 22 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 IN AND AROUND
one-time min- Philipsburg area including ing camp and Echo Lake, Copper Creek, trading post, Cable Mountain, Lodgepole, Philipsburg has Piney, Flint Creek, Boulder reinvented itself Creek and Crystal Creek. Aas a tourist destination. Walk Northwest of Drum- along the boardwalks, with mond and dating back to its many specialty shops and 1895, Garnet, a ghost town, historic buildings, or mine has a pastoral setting in the for sapphires. midst of the forest with Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard There are a number cabins and buildings. It is An old abandoned shack near Granite ghost town melts into the forest. of campgrounds in the managed by the Bureau of
Philipsburg’s main street is bustling on a warm day in May 2020. Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 23
Trees take over the ruins of an abandoned mining camp near Granite ghost town located east of Philipsburg.
Land Management and Gar- miners’ union hall. from its junction with Mon- West Fork of Rock Creek with net Preservation Association. Originally built as the tana 1, 6 miles south of Phil- scenery that reminds one of Its 30 buildings and visitors Courtney Hotel on Sansome ipsburg, to its junction with Yellowstone’s rocky, lodge- center are 11 miles up a gravel Street by the Courtney broth- U.S. 93, just south of Hamil- pole streams. After crossing road, north of I-90. Call ers in 1918, the building now ton. About 20 miles is gravel. Skalkaho Pass, 7,262 feet, it 406-329-3914 for details. houses the Granite County It passes through the green descends into the Bitterroot East of Philipsburg, Museum and Cultural meadows of the Flint Creek Valley once famous for its 4 miles by dirt road, is the Center, with its displays of Valley and crosses a pass into truck gardens and orchards. abandoned mining camp of culture, history and mining, the Rock Creek drainage. Just about one mile Granite, which was known 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., daily, 406- Along the way are postcard east of Philipsburg is Tower in 1890 as the “Silver Queen.” 859-3020. views of the snowcapped Town, an abandoned min- The park preserves the Gran- The Skalkaho Road, Anaconda Range in the Ana- ing camp. Named for Char- ite Mine Superintendent’s one of Montana’s scenic conda-Pintler Wilderness. lemagne Tower, structures House and ruins of the gems, extends about 60 miles The route proceeds up the from days gone by still stand.
Summer 2020 24 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
Deer Lodge: Flint Creek Rock Creek Little Blackfoot River An old stone wall and Boulder Creek entrance to the historic Willow Creek Reservoir prison in Deer Lodge is Clark Fork River seen from Main Street. Hiking trails near Deer Lodge Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard Dolus Lakes Trail is a 6.6 mile lightly populated out and back trail located near Deer Lodge, Montana that features a lake and is rated as moderate. The trail is primarily used for hiking, camping, bird watching, and backpacking and is best used from April until October. Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash. Trask Lakes through Rock Creek is a 15.8 mile moder- ately populated out and back trail located near Deer Lodge, Montana that features a lake and is rated as moderate. The trail offers a number of activ- ity options and is best used from June until September. IN AND AROUND Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash. Cliff Mountain is a 11.7 mile lightly trafficked out and back trail located near Deer Lodge, Montana that offers the chance to see wild- life and is rated as moderate. he second oldest The trail is primarily used town in Montana, for hiking and nature trips has had multiple and is best used from June names over the until September. years, such as T Spanish Fork, Cottonwood, CUTLER BROTHERS LaBarge City, Deer Lodge LIVE THEATER City, and now Deer Lodge. Located at 301 Main The Deer Lodge Valley is a Street. Information and tick- grassland bordered by moun- ets: 406-846-4096 or cut- tain ranges on the east and lerbros.com. Performances the west. It has always been a 7:30 p.m. Friday and Satur- center for agriculture. In 1852, day; 2 p.m. Sunday. Unless on what is now Gold Creek stated differently. float gold was discovered. June 19-July 12 — “May- About 20 miles north of the Businesses and restaurants line Main Street in the heart of Deer Lodge. hem in Montana — The Men city is where the first discov- that New Too Little” ery is located. In Deer Lodge, fishing, windsurfing and Arrow Stone Park is a July 24-Aug. 16 — people can find more muse- bird-watching. Keep an eye relaxing refuge for visitors “Romeo and Juliet — a ums and historical collections out for eagles, loons, herons that want to picnic, fish the modern take on a Shake- than in any other town in and pelicans, among many Clark Fork, walk the trails or speare classic” the Northwest. other waterfowl. To get to this just sit on a bench to view the Aug. 21 — “Comedy Night Browns Lake and location follow the fishing variety of wildlife surround- 44” at 8 p.m. Blackfoot Waterfowl area access signs on Highway 200 ing them. October — The Cutler is where people can enjoy East of Ovando. Fishing access near Brothers “Creepshow!” Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 25 Visit us in Butte!
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One of the 12 murals celebrating the Lewis and Clark Expedition painted by Montana artist Kit Mather adorns the side of a building on East Legion Avenue in Whitehall. IN AND AROUND
ith the with snow, but meanwhile mountain in Whitehall, maybe a “skiff ranges of or two.” the Tobacco Right smack dab in Root and the middle of Whitehall are Wthe Highlands right out the bicentennial murals their door, the small town of celebrating the Lewis & Whitehall is not a place to Clark Expedition of 1803- be missed. 06. On their journey to the The residents joke about Northwest Passage, Captains living in the banana belt and Meriwether Lewis and Wil- there is more fact than fiction liam Clark and their expedi- Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard to that boastful statement. tion party spent more time in The Tobacco Root Mountains south off Whitehall are snow-capped as the valley below Many a time, Butte is Montana than anywhere else. begins to show signs of spring. literally getting dumped on The murals pay homage to Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 27
A section of one of the 12 murals celebrating the Lewis and Clark Expedition adorns a building in Whitehall. The murals were painted by Montana artist Kit Mather.
their arduous trip. Running south and west of Whitehall, there are several access points you can use to get to the Jefferson River, which is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Walk on over to the Jef- ferson Valley Museum, which houses artifacts from the 1890s on up. The museum at 303 S. Division St., pays homage to the heritage that defines the Jef- ferson Valley. With its numerous rid- ing trails, the area around Pipestone is popular with mountain bikers, motorcy- clists and those who prefer ATVs. In bygone days, Pipe- stone included a hot springs, dozens of cottages, a school A section of a mural painted by Montana artist Kit Mather celebrates the Lewis and Clark Expedition in the business district of Whitehall. house and more. A Montana phenomenon and the Ringing Rocks near trip is well worth your time rolling foothills. Hikers can can be found as you are driv- Pipestone become “music to and effort. find remnants from long ago, ing toward Whitehall. Yes, your ears.” Just about 18 miles East of Whitehall are the including cabins and mining it’s true — they look just like east of Butte, you can park Tobacco Root Mountains, claims. At the higher eleva- a big old pile of rocks. But your vehicle in the parking with plenty of alpine moun- tions you will find an abun- then hit them with a hammer lot and walk for a bit, but the tain lakes, hiking trails and dance of mountain goats. 28 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
A grave marker honors PITT, the elephant, and Joe E. Womack, the elephant’s “biggest fan.” The elephant was struck by lightning and buried in the spot where it died at the fairgrounds in Dillon.
Meagan Thompson photos, The Montana Standard
available. Times: 9 a.m. to Red Rock Lakes 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday National Wildlife Refuge and by appointment. Phone: is 85 miles southeast of Dil- IN AND 406-683-5027. lon in the stunning expanse Beaverhead Rock of the Centennial Valley, a State Park was recognized one-time main route to Yel- by Sacagawea as a landmark lowstone National Park from AROUND during the Lewis and Clark the railroad at Monida. The Expedition in 1805. Seen refuge’s lakes and marshes from the Waterloo area, became a haven for the this rock and hill west of it trumpeter swan once threat- resembles a beaver swim- ened with extinction. ming. The park is undevel- Western Montana oped. It is also called Point College Museum and Gal- of Rocks by locals. Located lery, 710 S. Atlantic St., fea- 14 miles northeast of Dillon tures traveling exhibits, stu- on Montana 41. dent art, and a permanent Charcoal Kilns are collection of C.M. Russell, located in Canyon Creek, E.S. Paxson, Ansel Adams west of Melrose, and pro- and Russell Chatham. Open illon is nestled find fine dining and quaint duced charcoal for smelt- from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon- in a panoramic shops. Dillon is also home to ing silver and other metals day through Friday, 406- valley where the the University of Montana- at Hecla Consolidated 683-7232. Beaverhead, Big Western. Mining Co.’s nearby Glen- Clark’s Lookout State Hole and Ruby Beaverhead County dale smelter. park is located one mile Drivers empty. One of fly Museum is a log structure Clark Canyon Res- north of Dillon. The 8-acre fishermen’s favorite blue- at 15 S. Montana St., hous- ervoir south of Dillon park encompasses the hill ribbon trout streams is the ing artifacts and photos of is the headwaters of the overlooking the Beaver- Beaverhead River. Over 50 area history, Lewis and Clark Beaverhead River and a head River that William historical buildings line Dil- exhibit and natural history popular lake for waterskiing Clark climbed on Aug. 13, lon’s streets. Travelers can exhibit. Walking tour maps and fishing. 1805, during the Lewis and Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 29
South Montana Street in downtown Dillon
Clark Expedition. From the vantage point, Clark took various compass readings and sketched a map of the Beaverhead Valley. The park offers picnicking, interpre- tive signage, and a chance to make the climb that Clark made and stand where he stood. A unique attraction in Dillon is Old Pitt, an elephant who was part of the Cole Brothers Circus. In August 1943, Old Pitt was struck and killed by lightning when a severe storm hit during a matinee performance in Dillon. The elephant was buried right where she died. Old Pitt was given a proper burial at the Beaverhead County Fairgrounds by the circus members. They even com- People walk along South Montana Street on May 13 in downtown Dillon. missioned a granite grave marker. Seventy years later, sea level and is a rounded the Lewis and Clark Expedi- United States. Lemhi Pass visitors can still visit Old saddle in the Beaverhead tion first saw the headwaters was made a National Historic Pitt’s Burial Site. Mountains along the Con- of the Columbia River and Landmark in 1960 for its Lemhi Pass sits at an tinental Divide between crossed what was then the importance to the Lewis and elevation of 7,323 feet above Montana and Idaho. In 1805, western boundary of the Clark Expedition. 30 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 IN AND AROUND
An angler wets a line on the Madison River near Ennis.
ordered by 3 campgrounds. A spawning the flow of the Madison River in front of the Ennis Pharmacy million acres of channel that is newly devel- in the Madison River Canyon Lone Elk — Lone Elk Mall the Beaverhead- oped is a great place to view gorge and killing 28 people. Troutstalkers — the cor- Deerlodge National rainbow trout. Earthquake Lake Visitor Cen- ner of Third and Main St. Forest, Ennis is Ennis Lion’s Club Park ter displays a memorial boul- The Blue Heron — Berk- B a great location for outdoor provides a family-friendly der with a plaque of the names shire Hathaway building enthusiasts. Within the vast place to recreate next to the of those who died. The visi- Veterans Memorial acreage lie the Madison Range, Madison River and has walk- tor’s center is open 8:30 a.m. “Cowboy Soldier” — north of the Tobacco Root Mountains, ing trails for people and dogs. to 6 p.m. seven days a week Main St. on the hill overlook- and the Gravelly Range. The Madison Meadows through mid-September. ing Ennis mixture of forested moun- Golf Course, established in Ennis is known for its 150 Foot Fisherman — the tains, along with access to 1982, consists of nine holes. abundant outdoor art that intersection of US Hwy 287 the Madison River, produces The par-36 golf course mea- represents the culture of and MT State 287 extraordinary chances for sures 3,200 yards from the Montana and its citizens. Mustang Spirit Sculpture recreating. back tees. Because Ennis is considered — Ennis High School Cliff and Wade Lakes Quake Lake is five miles both a blue-ribbon fly fishing Mustang Herd — Charles sit on a geologic fault that long, one-third mile across, destination and an authentic St., one block off Main St. established a ravine that filled and 190 feet in depth. Anglers cowboy town rolled into one, Surveyor — located in with water; cliffs border most frequent the shores by boat. the art that comes from the front of the American Land of the lakes’ shorelines. Cliff The shoreline and a boat ramp area’s artists is entirely unique Title company building Lake is the larger and more are reachable from Highway to the region. Listed below are Sculpted Trout — the remote of the two. Wade Lake 287. The lake is stocked with some stops in Ennis to enjoy entrance to the Ennis is more easily reachable and cutthroat and brown trout. the outdoor art. RV Village stays partly ice-free in the Float tube fishing is recom- “A Wreck Waiting Wildlife Murals — winter. Birdwatchers can see mended because of the tim- to Happen” — located on the original log cabins at prairie falcons, bald eagles bers beneath the surface and Main St. El Western and ospreys. Cliff Lake offers high winds. Quake Lake was Largest Hand-Tied Fly Trout of many Colors — exceptional canoeing. Hikers created after an earthquake hit Ever — located on Main St. enormous trout can be seen can take in the flora, fauna, Aug. 17, 1959 in the Madison The Last Packtrip — leaping from various spots and geology of the area on a Canyon River Area and caused located on the front of the around the valley nearly one-mile trail connect- a massive landslide of 80 mil- Ennis Café Ennis Welcome Signs — ing the Wade Lake and Hilltop lion tons of rock, damming Fishing Bench — located located at entrance of Ennis
WHERE HISTORY Montana’s Most TELLS A STORY Unique Bar Underground Mine Tour See the equipment, touch the rock, Butte’s Only! hear the stories of the miners that worked the Orphan Girl mine. This underground mine tour is like no other tour you have taken before.
Open April – October LIVE MUSIC WEEKLY! AND A SECRET DOOR 155 Museum Way, Butte, MT 59701 ENTRANCE 406-723-7211 MONDAY-THURSDAY 4PM-9PM Underground Tour Reservations available FRIDAY & SATURDAY 2PM- 10:30PM National Registry of online at www.miningmuseum.org 406-723-8928 • 51 & 53 W. Park St. Historic Places CALL FOR MORE DETAILS Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020 • 31
First Street in Alder
Meagan Thompson, The Montana Standard
IN AND AROUND THE
f you want to learn more post is infamous for its National Register of His- September, at the Main St. about Montana’s his- Hangman’s Tree, which was toric Places. City Park. Fresh produce, tory, the Greater Ruby used to hang two road agents baked goods, crafts, jams and Valley includes the five of Virginia City’s Sheriff Twin Bridges Farmers Market jellies, vegetable and bedding small historical towns Henry Plummer. Runs from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., plants, bushes, hanging bas- I of Alder, Laurin, Sheridan, Mountain ranges sur- Saturday, May through kets, and eggs. Silver Star and Twin Bridges. round the town of Sheridan. Whether you are a hiker, Fondly referred to as the photographer, bicyclist, or “heart of the Ruby Valley,” camper, it’s a must-see area Sheridan was named for a of southwest Montana that Civil War general, Phillip Color Your World! you will want to revisit. Sheridan. Those who enjoy The area includes mountain the great outdoors can head ranges, rivers, historic monu- out to camp, fish, and hike ments, and camping. through the mountain ranges You can’t talk about of the Pioneers, Ruby Range, Montana’s early gold rush Tobacco Root, Snowcrest, days without including McCartney, Ruby Range Alder. Gold was first dis- and Gravellys. covered at Alder Gulch Creek In Montana’s infancy, in 1863. Now, people stop silver miners made up much in to learn about its history. of the population at Silver Referred to as the “gateway Star. Rich in history, it is the to the Ruby River Reservoir”, third oldest town in Montana. Alder is also considered a Remnants of old mining For all your Printing Needs fishermen’s paradise with the claims still exist and numer- Posters, Canvas Prints Beaverhead and Madison Riv- ous trails can be taken on ers nearby. its outskirts. Situated along Photo prints,Vinyl Banners Off the beaten path you the Jefferson River, fishing is will find Laurin, established readily available as well. Promotional Products the same year as Alder, in Do you like to fly fish? 1863. It was named after Head to Twin Bridges. Business Forms, Art cards long-time merchant and Bicycling your thing? Head Business cards, Invitations rancher, Jean Baptiste Laurin. to Twin Bridges. The small Several of its historic build- town is a mecca for both. It Booklets, Mailers & Much More! ings still stand including St. is also known for its “Round Mary Assumption Church, Barn,” which was built in 120 West Park St • Butte, MT established in 1901. The one- 1892 and housed race horses. time well-known trading The structure is listed on the 406-723-3363 • instybutte.com 32 • Road Trips in Southwest Montana | 2020
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