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Line of Descent Management missteps and turf wars have left endangered Mexican wolves dangerously inbred — and desperate for new blood | By Cally Carswell August 8, 2016 | $5 | Vol. 48 No. 13 | www.hcn.org 13 48 No. | $5 Vol. August 8, 2016 CONTENTS FROM OUR WEBSITE: HCN.OR G

Editor’s note Multimedia Trending Can this shotgun #BlackLivesMatter protests marriage be saved? across the West What can we In July, white police officers fatally shot two learn from You don’t expect a report from black men — Alton Sterling and Philando Castile. Ed Abbey? the Interior Department’s Then, during a Dallas protest, a sniper shot Writer Edward Abbey inspector general to be and killed five police officers. Although the died on March 14, interesting, let alone insightful, events didn’t take place in the West, Western 1989. Several recent but the newly released communities, both urban and rural, grapple with books take on his Investigative Report of the racial justice and policing. That was made even environmental legacy clearer as people protested across the region in U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s and his difficult the following weeks. LYNDSEY GILPIN views on other issues, Mexican Wolf Program manages MORE: hcne.ws/week-of-protests particularly women to be both. The 17-page report was ordered by U.S. and minorities. Rep. Steven Pearce, R-N.M., on behalf of Catron All the Wild that County, to investigate alleged misconduct by federal Remains: Edward staff overseeing the recovery of the endangered Abbey, Wallace Mexican wolf. It reads like the transcript of a Stegner, and the marriage mediation session — one that failed. American West seeks Catron County’s ranching community plays the insights for today, as unhappy wife, who never wanted to have Mexican forces like climate change threaten the wolves in the first place. She believes her husband, two writers’ beloved Fish and Wildlife, only loves her for her habitat, landscapes. Finding and has deliberately ignored the danger wolves Abbey: The Search pose to people, concealed information about their for Edward Abbey whereabouts, clandestinely removed evidence of and his Hidden wolf-killed livestock, and failed to compensate her for U.S. Interior Secretary Sally Jewell visits ancient cli dwellings in McCloyd Canyon near Blanding, Desert Grave is losses. Oh, he’s also a bleeding-heart animal lover, Utah, during a tour of the area that includes the proposed Bears Ears National Monument last Sean Prentiss’ quest Brooke, aka F1472, a 5-day-old Mexican wolf pup born at Brookfield Zoo in Chicago in April, gets a neonatal whose staff and volunteers “were seen crying when month. Jewell also attended a public hearing in Blu, Utah. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR for posthumous exam before being tucked into a carry-on bag and flown to Arizona, where she and her brother, Blaze, will be one of the wolves in the program had to be killed.” advice on how to live a life that is “cross-fostered” with the Elk Horn Pack. CHICAGO ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY The husband claims that he has bent over Emotions run high over Bears Ears meaningful. And backwards to accommodate his wife’s extreme Abbey in America: A FEATURE On July 16, Interior Secretary Sally Jewell visited monument would attract more people and result lupophobia. There are no documented cases of Bluff, Utah, for a public hearing on a proposal in more environmental and cultural impacts. Philosopher’s Legacy wolf attacks in the Southwest, he says, and he’s from five regional tribes to designate the Others fear the designation would cut off access in a New Century 14 On the cover Line of Descent only withheld information to protect the wolves Bears Ears National Monument. The proposed to tribal land and traditional piñon-gathering offers an anthology from possible abuse. As one federal leader told of perspectives on Zana, a 4-year-old Management missteps and turf wars have left endangered Mexican wolves monument is intended to increase protections on areas. Approximately 70 people spoke during By Cally Carswell investigators, “Some staff might have been 1.9 million acres of federally managed canyons the three-and-a-half-hour hearing, with members Abbey. Mexican gray wolf, dangerously inbred — and desperate for new blood BY ANDREA CLARK tends to her 1-month- apprehensive about speaking with ranchers they and mesas, land that is archaeologically rich and of the public chosen by lottery to give input. considered sacred by many Native Americans. Just about everyone who spoke clearly cared MASON old puppies at CURRENTS considered ‘mean.’ ” Chicago’s Brook eld The report seems to lead to one conclusion: Hundreds of people began lining up to comment about the landscape in question and wanted it more than three hours before the hearing began. to be protected to some degree, even those most You say Zoo. Two pups from 5 Due to irreconcilable differences, this partnership Forest fatalities California has an epidemic of dead trees. Despite worries about potential flare-ups, the passionately opposed to the monument. Jewell the same litter were But should those trees be logged to reduce fire risk? is doomed, and so is the Mexican wolf. But that’s JANET MOENCH removed in April to be hearing was impassioned but largely respectful. largely refrained from comment. It’s not clear “His credentials in 5 not what contributing editor Cally Carswell finds The divides between critics and supporters when a decision on the monument will be made, “cross-fostered” with The Latest: California water tunnels reporting this issue’s cover story. The wolves are too regard to wilderness the Elk Horn Pack in are blurry: While the monument, which would but, with the end of President Barack Obama’s are impeccable; 7 closely related, and without new blood, they could Arizona. Will a Colorado compromise end a water tug-of-war? be partially managed by tribes, has received term looming, it’s likely to be in the next several other than that, he substantial Native American support, many months. CHICAGO ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY Controversial deal for trans-mountain diversion project faces scrutiny eventually struggle to reproduce. Unfortunately, is simply another tribal members are resistant. Shirley Clarke, a 7 The Latest: Navajo uranium mine cleanup some of the most genetically diverse individuals JONATHAN THOMPSON human, warts and have been killed because of conflicts with ranchers. Navajo living in Blanding, Utah, worried that a MORE: hcne.ws/bears-ears-hearing all.” 8 Columbia River ‘shadow tribes’ face housing crisis Wolves raised in contained breeding facilities Feds promise lodging at fish camps — but don’t deliver sometimes have trouble adapting to life in a vast MIKE ZOBBE 11 landscape — especially one filled with cows. “He inspired me to Seeds of change Seed storage project takes new approach Quoted stand up for the to tracking plants’ response to climate change Despite this, some progress is being made to reduce tensions: The Mexican Wolf/Livestock natural world, but he Coexistence Council, which includes ranchers and (Congress must) immediately pass was a bit of a bigot.” conservationists, was formed a few years ago, DEPARTMENTS LYNN JACKSON and, though underfunded, is helping by better universal legislation providing the timely 905 3 FROM OUR WEBSITE: HCN.ORG Number of signatures “Great writer, deep compensating ranchers for livestock losses. But the “and orderly mechanism requiring gathered on a White thinker. But I wish relationship clearly needs a fresh start. Complete access 4 LETTERS House petition calling he had romanticized to subscriber-only In April, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service the federal government to convey for the firing of some place other content 12 THE HCN COMMUNITY Research Fund, Dear Friends committed to publishing new vows in the form of National Park Service than Moab. I put a 21 MARKETPLACE a revised recovery plan by November 2017. That’s certain federally controlled public Director Jon Jarvis. great deal of what HCN’s website Jarvis is under scrutiny has become of Moab hcn.org good news, biologist Mike Phillips told Carswell, but 24 WRITERS ON THE RANGE steadfast implementation will be even more critical, lands to the states. for not taking swifter (little of it good) squarely on old Digital edition Sometimes, the West must defend itself against itself By Adam M. Sowards along with “a willingness to accept that no matter —The 2016 Republican Party platform draft as it read, in part, action to address hcne.ws/digi-4813 charges that the Cactus Ed’s writings what you do, some people are going to be frustrated going into the Republican National Convention in July. The 2012 26 BOOKS agency has a culture of about the place.” about this, some people are going to be frustrated platform had similar, but” slightly more nuanced, language: Reviewed by Ben Goldfarb sexual harassment and Follow us The Ancient Minstrel by Jim Harrison. about that. You’re the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; “Congress should reconsider whether parts of the federal MORE: hcne.ws/ government’s enormous landholdings and control of water in the employee misconduct. 27 ESSAY that’s the way it is.” It will never be a perfect edward-abbey and West could be better used for ranching, mining LYNDSEY GILPIN Facebook.com/ By Michael Baughman People on Twitter posted protests from around  Gone fishing marriage, but there’s still a chance to save it. or forestry through private ownership.” MORE: hcne.ws/ highcountrynews --Paul Larmer, executive director/publisher the West, including tweets from @highcountrynews 28 HEARD AROUND THE WEST By Betsy Marston @BLMLA, @JanetRWeil and @bethnakamura. JODI PETERSON MORE: hcne.ws/publiclands-vision NPSdirector 2 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 3 LETTERS Send letters to [email protected] or Editor, HCN, P.O. Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428. CURRENTS High Country News EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR/PUBLISHER Paul Larmer THE LATEST MANAGING EDITOR Brian Calvert Backstory SENIOR EDITORS Two-thirds of Jodi Peterson California’s water Jonathan Thompson comes from the ART DIRECTOR Cindy Wehling Sacramento and San ONLINE EDITOR Joaquin Delta, heart Tay Wiles of a tangled system ASSISTANT EDITOR that routes water Kate Schimel to 25 million people D.C. CORRESPONDENT and 3 million acres Elizabeth Shogren of farmland. Gov. WRITERS ON THE RANGE Jerry Brown is pushing EDITOR Betsy Marston ASSOCIATE DESIGNER a plan to dig two Brooke Warren VAIN tunnels underneath COPY EDITOR it to secure water for

Diane Sylvain IANE SYL Southern California CONTRIBUTING EDITORS D during drought — a Cally Carswell, Sarah controversial $15 Gilman, Glenn Nelson, Michelle Nijhuis DEAR HCN … Be somewhat less supportive of consumptive billion project that CORRESPONDENTS Our annual reader surveys have been trickling in, and as always, they’re chock-full users of public lands — grazers, historic farmers, fisheries and Ben Goldfarb, Krista of thoughtful criticism, enthusiastic encouragement, and suggestions for widening subsistence users, ATV-use expansion, mining, wildlife advocates Langlois, Sarah Tory, — or narrowing — our field of view. Here’s a sampling of what’s on your mind. etc. Be a more forceful advocate for fear will siphon off Joshua Zaffos conservation, even if some Old West ways of too much water. The EDITORIAL FELLOWS life must change. question remains: Paige Blankenbuehler Please continue to hold the spoilers, (1) More Craig Childs. (2) When you run stories Lyndsey Gilpin What if there’s just not environmental bandits and money-grubbers’ that require imminent management or political Stick to environmental issues. I quit donating INTERN enough water to go feet to the fire. This country in the West has action, provide constructive suggestions to your Research Fund when you ran the article on Anna V. Smith the “Gangs of Zion,” Aug. 8, 2005. around? (“California’s DEVELOPMENT MANAGER been trashed enough. to readers who want to make a meaningful tangled water politics,” Alyssa Pinkerton In this age of information overload, there’s comment. I appreciate your reporting of issues in much HCN, 12/20/10). DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT such a thing as too much to read. I like HCN More focus on environmental racism/justice. greater depth than my local paper would. Christine List because it offers well-considered articles The pictures are good — but, I sometimes Followup SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETER Emphasize science more and its influence (or JoAnn Kalenak of appropriate depth. More isn’t necessarily lack of influence) on policy. wonder if it is really necessary to give so much In July, Brown hired WEB DEVELOPER Eric Strebel better. space to pictures. former Interior I don’t care to read about social issues in Dead trees near Bass Lake in the Sierra National Forest in California. U.S. FOREST SERVICE DATABASE/IT ADMINISTRATOR Secretary Bruce Some articles require a small amount of politics metropolitan areas. I read every word of every issue except for Alan Wells to make sense of the writing. Please keep your travel issues, which have been a waste Babbitt — known DIRECTOR OF ENGAG EMENT politics at a low level. I love the spirit with which you approach your of printing the last several years. I have come for making water Gretchen King articles, and the pieces are written with detail to dread the time when the travel issue is nobody really knows what the hell to do.” deals — to help secure FINANCE MANAGER Greater emphasis on reporting on misuse of and precision, the facts supported, etc. federal approval for Beckie Avera printed. Overwhelmed by the die-off, forest public lands. Forest fatalities the project. The same ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE More stories, fewer ads. (I know, I know.) management agencies are resorting to a I like the “homey” style and regularity You have done a good job of reporting the week, a California Jan Ho man The overall tone is good — serious, sincere, environmental damage and hazards that century-old strategy: removing dead trees CIRCULATION MANAGER of appearance. The more “slick,” the less California has an epidemic of dead trees. water supplier abound in the West. I challenge you to balance Tammy York appealing. without being sanctimonious or morbidly to minimize future wildfires, which they bought five Delta pessimistic. your articles with the positive side of what is But should those trees be logged to reduce fire risk? predict will be inevitable and cataclys- CIRCULATION SYSTEMS ADMIN. Generally, I read HCN cover-to-cover. It’s islands for potential Kathy Martinez happening. mic. Gov. Jerry Brown declared a state of nice to sit back in a comfortable chair by the Bigger, better photos, and more hard-truth tunnel construction. CIRCULATION investigative reporting and less fluffy feature The kind of news, essays and thoughtful letters BY JANE BRAXTON LITTLE emergency in October, citing a public safe- And though state Kati Johnson, Pam Peters, woodstove and savor it! Doris Teel stories. from readers are simply not found elsewhere. ty hazard from falling trees and worsen- agencies working on Stop the recitation of Paonia visitors in the plan outlined ways ADVERTISING DIRECTOR More fact-checking means fewer corrections. The commenters’ rants on Facebook or Twitter ooking north from Blue Canyon near to 90 percent of the mid-elevation pon- ing wildfire risks. The tree mortality task “Dear Friends” and use the space for content. to save endangered David J. Anderson means fewer are not helpful and are often misleading or divisive. Shaver Lake, copper-colored forests derosa pines are dead. Weakened by force he convened has marshaled a small More points of view L Delta smelt by AD SALES REPRESENTATIVE I appreciate your efforts to strike a “clarifications” and peevish letters to the editor. blanket mountain slopes that stretch ridge drought, oaks are succumbing to sudden army to log over 6 million acres. Bob Wedemeyer Just keep on keepin’ on! It is all great. restoring wetlands balance between reporting on the negative after ridge to the horizon. The patches of oak death along the central and northern In June, U.S. Agriculture Secretary GRANTWRITER Janet Reasoner I moved to Michigan and thought I could do and increasing consequences of oil and gas drilling, fracking I feel better informed about our area’s fading green that dappled these hillsides coast, and the disease has moved into the Tom Vilsack called for Congress to provide [email protected] and impacts to water supply versus the without my HCN subscription. I was wrong. political process because of your reporting. water outflows, last fall have merged into an unbroken Central Valley. Pines gray as ghosts haunt funding to fight the “unprecedented and [email protected] American need for oil and gas production. The “Marketplace” section has long annoyed environmentalists say [email protected] Do what you must for the publication and cover of rust-needled pines. At dusk, when me. It would be so encouraging to read of coastal, Cascade and Sierra foothills. The increased risk of catastrophic wildfires.” it’s too little, too late. [email protected] A couple years ago, I subscribed (to HCN) for your staff so that you remain a viable source the winds die down, an eerie stillness gives epidemic is spreading across choice vistas It may seem logical that all these dead LYNDSEY GILPIN [email protected] our . The actual employment for a “real, normal” and reference on those topics you choose to Verona, Wisconsin, public library way to the muffled sound of munching as owned by millionaires as well as remote trees would fuel massive conflagrations. FOUNDER Tom Bell librarian tells me the magazine is well-read and person, someone with some skills but not of report on. BOARD OF DIRECTORS frequently checked out. an “executive director” nature. And while I’m at beetles chomp through one tree after an- landscapes rarely entered by humans. Scientists, however, say climate, not dead John Belkin, Colo. it: Real estate that is affordable for someone Continue truly in-depth, unbiased other, thousands after thousands. And the bark beetles that caused this trees, drives fire risk. That leaves Cali- Chad Brown, Ore. Add community dynamics in the changing outside of the 1 percent, or even 10 percent! investigations. Minimize “shrill,” biased, out-of- This is the look — and the sound — of desolation? They’re reproducing at triple fornia poised to log millions of standing Beth Conover, Colo. West. context, “enviro,” ill-researched junk. Islands in the San Jay Dean, Calif. Have at least one climate-related article in drought. the normal rate. Forest ecologists used to dead trees without addressing a central I hope you touchy-feely types in Paonia can get I am acutely aware of how much work goes Joaquin River Delta. John Echohawk, Colo. each issue, with maps. Four consecutive winters with little consider them a natural part of the for- question: Are they actually a fire hazard? DOC SEARLS Bob Fulkerson, Nev. used to the fact that hunting and fishing are into publishing an independent paper, and to no snowpack, followed by four dry est dynamic — and they are. Stressed by . Let’s see a High Country News podcast in an what an uphill battle it is most of the time. Wayne Hare, Colo. important forms of recreation summers, have devastated California’s drought and decades of air pollution in hainsaws and chippers are already at Laura Helmuth, Md. interesting and thoughtful format. Kudos to you all for putting out such a reliably I’ve been subscribing for 32 years, and the southern Sierra Nevada. At least 66 mil- overcrowded stands, however, the natural work in 10 counties clustered along John Heyneman, Wyo. The cold, clear, factual reporting is what high-quality product. C Osvel Hinojosa, Mexico last year has been the best yet! keeps me subscribing. lion trees are already dead statewide, and chemicals trees pitch out in self-defense the Sierra Nevada’s southwestern slopes. Samaria Ja e, Calif. You manage to piss me off every issue — one I hope that your view of what journalism is millions more are expected to die as the can’t keep up with the onslaught of bugs. Crews are focusing first on some 230,000 Nicole Lampe, Ore. and must remain in a free society will never way or another. drought persists into a fifth summer. No one is calling what’s happening here acres of dead trees along roads, in public Marla Painter, N.M. change. Raynelle Rino-Southon, On the Sierra National Forest, up natural anymore. campgrounds and around communities, Calif “Nobody imagined this would come on a task expected to continue through the Estee Rivera Murdock, D.C. Jane Braxton Little explores science and natural as fast as it has, or be as lethal,” says Craig summer and beyond next winter. Dan Stonington, Wash. High Country News is a nonprot 501(c)(3) (ISSN/0191/5657) is published bi-weekly, 22 times a year, by High Country News, 119 Grand Printed on Rick Tallman, Colo. resources for publications including National Geo- Thomas, conservation director for Sierra Nearly everyone supports removing High independent media organization that covers the Ave., Paonia, CO 81428. Periodicals, postage paid at Paonia, CO, and other post offices. recycled paper. Luis Torres, N.M. issues that dene the American West. Its mission is POSTMASTER: Send address changes to High Country News, Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428. All graphic, Scientific American and The Sacramento Forest Legacy, a coalition focused on Si- dead trees that can crash onto houses, Andy Wiessner, Colo. Country to inform and inspire people to act on behalf of the rights to publication of articles in this issue are reserved. See hcn.org for submission guidelines.  Florence Williams, D.C. Bee from Northern California. @JBraxtonLittle erra Nevada national forest issues. “And roads and power lines. It is the next phase News region’s diverse natural and human communities. Subscriptions to HCN are $37 a year, $47 for institutions: 800-905-1155 | hcn.org 4 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 5 that is controversial. The task force has ver Water offered to help compensate her identified high-hazard areas in both pri- Will a Colorado compromise end county for the impacts caused by previous vately and publicly owned forests totaling water diversions. Accepting the deal, she 6.3 million acres — more than double the a water tug-of-war? decided, might be Grand County’s only combined size of Yosemite and Yellow- chance to secure that help. stone national parks. The computer-gen- Controversial deal for trans-mountain Under the agreements, Denver Wa- erated hazard-tree maps include entire ter will monitor the Fraser on an ongo- watersheds where mortality exceeds 1.5 diversion project faces scrutiny ing basis, tracking temperatures in key percent. Some are in the backcountry far streams. When readings spike, the utility BY SARAH TORY from human habitation. will release additional flows to cool the Soil tacki er Critics argue that this is an unaccept- water. In addition, diversions will largely solution is applied to the dirt around an ably low threshold that poses unacceptably n 2003, when Denver Water first pro- on the South Platte River, ending the occur during peak runoff season, and not abandoned uranium high risks to forests. It could lead to logging I posed diverting more water from the utility’s dreams of doubling its storage at all during severely dry years. mine in oreau, in old-growth forests and other stands that Fraser River and its tributaries, officials capacity. “In the good old days, Denver For critics, however, any deal, no mat- New Mexico, to are still healthy and not severely impacted in Grand County, Colorado, balked. Every Water would just roll over people and not ter how good, is yet another blow to the reduce erosion on by drought, thereby threatening wildlife year, billions of gallons are piped out of care about the implications,” says Jim larger Colorado River system, which is the contaminated diversity and disturbing ground cover that the Western Slope’s rivers, bound for the Lochhead, the utility’s CEO. But the Two already suffering from overuse. “We don’t site. ENVIRONMENTAL nourishes an array of plants and animals. cities and suburbs that sprawl along the Forks debacle showed that new forces get involved in compromising,” says Gary PROTECTION AGENCY Only a well-tended tree farm would be safe dry eastern side of the Rocky Mountains. were coming into play, including growing Wockner, director of the advocacy group As counter- under such standards, says Brian Nor- Grand County contributes the most — public opposition to more dams. Save the Colorado and one of the lawyers THE LATEST intuitive as it wicki, California climate policy director for 60 percent of its water is sent eastward A new approach was needed, says preparing a lawsuit. “Further draining the Center for Biological Diversity. — and after years of watching their rivers Lochhead. “So we went to Grand County the river is not doing things in a new way.” Backstory In 2005, the Navajo may seem, during But at the heart of the logging debate A worker cuts the top o a bug-killed tree in the Lake Tahoe area of California. Statewide, shrink, many locals were less than thrilled and asked how we could develop it (Moffat) Geoff Elliot, a local watershed sci- Nation banned extreme drought, is the question of whether dead trees are a drought and bark beetles have killed more than 66 million trees. at the prospect of losing more water. with their support.” Negotiations began entist, believes that the deal is based on fire hazard. The conventional assumption RANDY PENCH/THE SACRAMENTO BEE/ZUMAPRESS.COM It could have been the start of anoth- in 2007 and eventually included 18 other negotiation instead of on science. Taking uranium mining on green forests may is that insect outbreaks increase wildfire er lengthy court battle, a routine occur- Western Slope water providers and mu- more water from the Fraser, he warns, will its 27,000-square-mile reservation. risk because dead trees are more flamma- Progressive forest canopy water stress, 2011-2015 rence in Colorado, where east and west nicipalities. The end result was two ma- bring the river’s ecosystem to the “brink of Nearly 4 million tons of be even more ble than green ones. That is a conclusion have fought over water for decades. But jor agreements that pave the way for new collapse.” No one knows, he says, whether High Areas with high water stress uranium ore had most scientists have long disputed. after Denver Water promised to help the Western Slope water development — de- the proposed mitigation measures will flammable between 2011 to 2015 are the been extracted since than standing Researchers have found that beetle approximate regions where Fraser recover from years of depletion, velopment that is badly needed, says Loch- be enough to account for all the potential 1944, seriously kill, even when it consumes whole land- the Forest Service counted 66 Grand County reconsidered and agreed head, to bolster Denver’s supplies against damage. More water diversions could dry contaminating tribal dead trees. scapes, does not increase the likelihood of million dead trees from 2010 to let the utility siphon another 18,700 future drought and climate change. up vast swaths of wetlands, for example, lands. The toxic the big, hot fires that can wipe out entire to 2015. Measuring water stress acre-feet (equal to 15 percent) from the Both agreements include the usual but that possibility was omitted from the legacy has left tribal stands and leave soils so charred they can help predict the mortality of river through the existing Moffat Tunnel. measures required by law to address the project’s environmental impact statement. members battling can’t absorb water. Some analyses indi- trees. Trees under water stress When the deal was signed in March 2014, impacts of diversions. But they also in- Lochhead believes that the amount respiratory diseases, as well as liver, lung cate that dead trees can even reduce fire Moderate are better indicators of re risk proponents lauded this new collaborative clude “enhancement” measures that Den- of monitoring in the deal addresses such than dead trees because they and breast cancers, risks: Once the needles on a bug-killed approach to managing Colorado’s dwin- ver Water proposed to improve the health concerns. “We’re not looking to develop a and many families still tree drop to the ground, the most flamma- still have needles ( re fuel), and dling — and contentious — water supply. of the Fraser, which suffers from exces- water supply that kills the river,” he says. they are dry. await compensation ble fuel has left the forest canopy. This re- SOURCE: GREGORY ASNER/ It proved, they said, that the state could sively warm temperatures and sediment- “That would be like shooting ourselves (“On Cancer’s trail,” duces the source of the flames that spread CARNEGIE INSTITUTION FOR SCIENCE meet future water needs without destroy- clogged streambeds that have decimated in the foot.” Still, the deal-making both- HCN, 5/26/08). most quickly from tree crown to tree ing ecosystems. On July 1, the $360 mil- cutthroat trout and other coldwater spe- ers environmentalists — the notion that crown, escalating the scale of the blaze, lion project celebrated a major milestone cies, such as sculpin fish and stoneflies. you can take as much water as you want Followup Garret Meigs wrote in an April study pub- in the approval process when it received Still, it seemed like a long shot: How from a system and then negotiate about In early July, the lished in Environmental Research Letters. emergency. a key permit from the Colorado Depart- could conditions improve if more water how much you’ll give back later. “That Obama administration The Oregon State researcher found for- Land manag- ment of Public Health and Environment. was taken? Curran was initially skepti- isn’t the way ecology works,” Elliot says. signed an agreement ests impacted by the mountain pine beetle ers, conserva- The final decision rests with the U.S. cal, but she changed her mind when Den- “That’s the way politics works.” funding Phase II of were actually less susceptible to fire for as tion and com- Army Corps of Engineers. But meanwhile, the Environmental long as two decades after the trees died. munity leaders threats of an environmental lawsuit are Protection Agency’s ongoing effort Hot, dry, windy climatic conditions, not are reassessing past growing — raising questions about the to clean up the dead-tree density, drive fire risk, scientists practices, such as fire future of other collaborative agreements reservation’s say. And not just in drought-plagued Cali- suppression, that have over water. abandoned uranium fornia: Between 1979 and 2013, increases led to high-severity fires “It was hard for people to believe that mines. The 16 in temperature and wind speeds combined and forest mortality. “It’s giving away more water was in our best mines that pose with a greater number of rain-free days to not a path we want to stay interests,” says Lurline Underbrink Cur- the greatest risk to lengthen fire seasons worldwide by nearly on,” says Jim Branham, exec- ran, the former Grand County manager human health will 20 percent, according to a study published utive officer of the Sierra Ne- and a lead negotiator with Denver Water. be remediated, and in Nature Communications. As counter- vada Conservancy. The drought But in the end, she says, the decision to 30 others will be intuitive as it may seem, during extreme offers an opportunity to deter- compromise offered a better outcome: “In- evaluated for future cleanup. The EPA has drought, green forests may be even more mine how to deal with a future stead of endless court battles, we accepted already spent $100 flammable, says Dominik Kulakowski, where the climate is changing, he says. more water will be diverted out.” million to remediate a research professor at Clark University The shock of losing so many trees has 47 homes and screen in Massachusetts. Needles lost from the also generated an unexpected consensus or Denver Water, Colorado’s largest more than 500 mines tops of trees are more important to reduc- over such issues as returning fire to the F and most powerful water utility, bro- since 2008, and ing the risk of fire than the standing dead landscape to restore forest health. People’s These discussions remain contentious, kering a deal with Grand County was part estimates for future wood, he says. minds are changing “as fast as anything I’ve and they are happening under the duress of a new business strategy. In 1990, en- cleanup costs extend Whether scientific studies like these ever seen,” says Thomas, the Sierra Legacy of an epidemic of dead trees in a culture vironmentalists killed Denver Water’s bid into the hundreds of will affect California’s response is an open director and an advocate of prescribed fire accustomed to suppressing fire. Mean- to build the massive Two Forks Reservoir millions. PAIGE question. But the sheer magnitude of the and managing, rather than putting out, while, more trees are turning brown day e Moat Water Tunnel brings water from Grand County, Colorado, to the Front Range of BLANKENBUEHLER die-off is forcing a focus on forest man- fires started naturally by lightning. “That by day as bark beetles munch their way Correspondent Sarah Tory writes from Paonia, Colorado, diverting ow from the Fraser River, which is becoming depleted. agement that transcends the immediate tells me we’re getting somewhere.” through another summer. Colorado, and covers water issues.  @tory_sarah MARK CONLIN /ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

6 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 7 In 1937, the U.S. Army Corps of En- fishermen drag in generators or bootleg lack plumbing, 10 times the national av- Columbia River ‘shadow tribes’ face housing crisis gineers completed Bonneville Dam, flood- power from the grid. erage. Still, Lone Pine, Oregon, a tribal ing numerous fishing sites and villages. Although the housing crunch has sim- fishing camp 85 miles east of Portland, Feds promise lodging at fish camps — but don’t deliver But the treaties gave the tribes leverage, mered for decades, in the last several years is a particularly run-down aggregation of compelling the Corps to relocate some it has erupted into a full-blown crisis. Re- trailers and shacks sided with corrugat- BY BEN GOLDFARB families while promising to purchase land cord-setting salmon runs have lured more ed tin and tree bark. Hubcaps and piles and build new homes for others. Similar fishermen from the reservation to the of clothes litter the packed-dirt track; vows accompanied the subsequent con- river, crowding the sites in summer and derelict vans and motorboats perch on aul Lumley, like many Yakama Lumley recalls. its origins in 1855, when treaties pushed struction of the Dalles and John Day fall and straining their deplorable infra- cinderblocks. A single bathroom serves P Nation citizens, grew up fishing on Today, 31 such fishing camps line the tribes onto reservations far from the Co- dams. Yet it took the agency nearly 20 structure. In turn, the tribes have recruit- the 40 permanent residents, whose num- the Columbia River, through which salm- river, and hundreds of tribal members lumbia. Though the treaties guaranteed years after the completion of Bonneville ed congressional allies to make their case bers swell during fishing season. Drug on flowed like blood. Though Lumley’s flock to them during fishing season. Up American Indians access to tradition- to set aside five meager parcels for Na- to the Corps, which has acknowledged its abuse, including meth and heroin, is Russell Tahkeal walks through the family lived north of the Columbia, in to 160 families also inhabit the camps al fishing sites, the reservations were tive American use. The Corps did briefly responsibility to build new housing. But rampant. shing camp at Cooks Washington’s Yakima Valley, his family year-round. Lumley now serves as direc- anathema to those whose sustenance put some tribal members in World War bureaucracies move slowly, and dispens- Lone Pine sits on basalt bluffs across Landing, Washington, migrated to the river each fall to set gill- tor of the Columbia River Inter-Tribal and culture flowed from the Columbia’s II-era barracks, but the buildings turned ing reparations for historical injustices the river from the Dalles Dam, which le, where trash piles nets for valuable chinook. Lumley slept Fish Commission, a tribal management waters. White soldiers fought them and out to be ridden with asbestos. has never been America’s strong suit. generates power for a nearby $1.2 billion up and amenities such in the truck bed for months at a time, agency that conducts fisheries research, settlers murdered them, yet some tribal The situation improved somewhat Says Yakama fisherman Randy Settler: Google data center, among other infra- as running water and steeped in eau de salmon, at Underwood, enforces regulations, and operates hatch- members remained rooted to the river- in the 1990s, when the Corps began con- “It’s not a popular issue to build replace- structure. “How do you think people at toilets are in short a small, decrepit fishing camp set aside eries. Despite its fishy focus, Lumley’s banks, growing gradually distant from struction on 26 new seasonal fishing sites. ment homes for something that happened Lone Pine feel looking at this huge dam supply. e federal for American Indian use by the federal agency is also worried about the Colum- their reservation kin. According to the But the sites still lacked housing. Most 70 years ago.” every day, making all those other people government is legally government. “It was really rough living,” bia’s camps — among the quietest hous- historian Andrew Fisher, “River Indians” resemble bare-bones campsites, endowed rich?” says Lumley, a rangy, cordial man obligated to maintain ing crises in modern-day Indian Country. today “constitute a shadow tribe, part of with little more than a bathroom, a fish- oor living conditions are common in whose voice grows softer the angrier he the shing sites along the Columbia River. Correspondent Ben Goldfarb writes from New The housing dilemma, like many and yet separate from the tribal bodies cleaning station and a boat ramp; many P Indian Country — more than 5 per- gets. “When I ask this community if they TERRAY SYLVESTER Haven, Connecticut.  @ben_a_goldfarb Northwest tribal fisheries conflicts, has whose fortunes they share.” lack running water and electricity. Tribal cent of homes on Native American land want a free house, they look at me like I’m crazy. They want water that works, they want someone to come pick up the e Tahkeal family, garbage.” of the Yakama The substandard facilities aren’t Tribe, prepare to merely eyesores, they’re also hazardous to sh from their health and safety — as demonstrated by home, below. ey Lumley’s uncle, a wizened, good-humored share a one-room 86-year-old named Johnny Jackson. Jack- uninsulated home son, a chief of the Cascade Tribe, one of without plumbing the groups that comprise the Yakama Na- during shing tion, has lived at the Underwood site since season. Right, the 1960s, when he resisted the Corps’ at- Johnny Jackson, chief of the Klickitat tempts to oust him and turn the landing Band, and his over to white sport fishermen. “My sisters grand-nephew, Jason used to come and help me have a salmon- Templeton-Jackson, bake right here,” he recalls, standing in in Underwood, the shade of a fish-cleaning station. In Washington, near September 2014, Jackson’s hand-built the site of the Native house caught fire when a faulty fuel village that was line caused his propane tanks to hurtle inundated by the through the air like bottle rockets. When Bonneville Dam in firefighters arrived, they found that the 1937. TERRAY SYLVESTER nearby yellow fire hydrant wasn’t con- nected to any water source. Jackson’s home was reduced to charcoal. Now he lives in a trailer. Lone Pine and Underwood are not unique in their dilapidation — the bath- room in a 3-acre site called Cooks Landing doesn’t even have a door, and most of the other 31 sites suffer from similar condi- tions. But even supplying these spartan services is draining the Corps’ coffers: Ac- cording to Laurie Jordan, a policy analyst for the Inter-Tribal Fish Commission, it costs more than $40,000 per year just to pump the septic tank at Cooks Landing. The abysmal quarters contrast pain- fully with nearby North Bonneville. When that town had to be moved in the 1970s to make way for a new dam powerhouse, its mostly white residents secured $35 million for relocation. Today, the com- munity is a Pleasantville-esque complex of churches, tennis courts and ball fields.

8 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 9 “I’m happy for them,” says Lumley as we gressional delegations from Oregon and a difficult decision: Who will build and drive through the hamlet. “But we have Washington also introduced legislation manage the infrastructure? Though the people who are owed basic amenities.” in the House and Senate that would di- Bureau of Indian Affairs was once respon- rect the Bureau of Indian Affairs, which sible for operations, maintenance and law fter more than 70 years of neglect, new owns the sites, to improve sanitation and enforcement at the sites, everyone agrees A housing may finally be on the horizon. electrical infrastructure. “These are items the agency bungled the job — a posted In 2013, a Corps-commissioned report ac- that shouldn’t wait for longer-term legis- emergency phone number, for instance, knowledged that many displaced families lative action,” says Rep. Earl Blumenauer, sometimes routed calls to an office in had never received relocation assistance, D-Ore., one of the bill’s authors. “It’s ex- Wyoming. These days, those responsibili- and that the facilities were inadequate. traordinarily frustrating that we’ve al- ties are handled by the Inter-Tribal Fish The 2016 iteration of the Water Resources lowed these conditions to persist.” Commission, but it’s an awkward fit. Development Act, biennial legislation that Although passing the legislation will “Fish is our middle name,” says Lumley. authorizes Corps water projects, includes be a tall order in an election year, the “Housing isn’t.” Lumley hopes the tribes Etterson. “Instead of being random and language about granting relocation assis- housing momentum is gathering. If and will create a housing authority to steward Ryan Lynch, a lab arbitrary, we can be really intentional.” technician for Project tance to displaced families. In July, con- when funding arrives, the tribes will face the sites. “There’s the potential to address With Project Baseline, Etterson and her Baseline, looks at seeds the long-term economic development that colleagues can help researchers answer a stored in a seedbank, these people need,” he says. “But it needs wide range of questions, shedding light on which is kept at minus to come directly from the communities the variables affecting a plant’s ability to 18 degrees Celsius to themselves.” keep them dormant adapt to climate change. That requires in- More than 150 years after the U.S. and preserve them tensive comparison between different spe- Army attempted to dislodge the Columbia for decades, in Fort cies — common plants versus specialized River Indians, the river tribes remain in Collins, Colorado, local species, plants with long lifecycles the shadows. Many year-round river dwell- left. Bromegrass seeds versus those with short ones, plants that ers, says Jordan, don’t avail themselves of are germinated to rely on live pollinators versus those polli- determine the viability services like welfare, food benefits and en- nated by wind. Even invasive species like of the seed sample ergy assistance, which are widely used by Seeds of change A morning’s catch rapeseed and black mustard are included, before long-term reservation residents. According to Wilbur of salmon on the Seed storage project takes new approach so that researchers can determine whether storage, right. The Slockish, a bearish 71-year-old Klickitat Columbia River, climate change will enable so-called weeds seeds in this project right. Below, Yakama chief, off-reservation Indians remain out to tracking plants’ response to climate change will help scientists to become even more dominant. sherman Andy of sight and out of mind when the salmon monitor genetic Researchers made sure that there was Sohappy, le, hauls aren’t running. “The tribe’s mentality is BY BRYCE GRAY changes in plants due ample diversity within every species by in a gillnet on the the reservation, and it’s always been that to climate change. drawing from 10 to 20 populations of each, BROOKE WARREN Columbia River with way,” he says. “We’re on our own.” his employee Kyle fter months of searching, Heather 5 million seeds from 60-plus species can sampling from Northern and Southern re- Few river dwellers know that better Brisboi. Sohappy has Schneider was beginning to despair. provide future researchers with a genetic gions, as well as from both high and low than David Sohappy Jr., a Yakama fish A fought many legal The UC Santa Barbara postdoc had snapshot, so that they will be able to iden- elevations. technician whom I meet on a warm sickle- battles to preserve been scouring drought-ravaged Southern tify changes as evolutionary responses to Complications such as drought and moon evening at Drano Lake — a Colum- the Native right to California for a rare yellow wildflower climate change. wildfire made it harder to find many bia River pool formed when Bonneville sh and live along the called the seep monkeyflower, a water- Seeds have been gathered from across plants. One collection site in Northern Columbia River. Dam inundated a historic fishing village loving native perennial that occupies the nation, but Western species rank high California was torched by a wildfire just 12 TERRAY SYLVESTER in the 1930s. In 1982, when hostilities seeps and small pockets where moisture in the project’s inventory: Joshua trees, hours after Schneider obtained the seeds between the River Indians and the gov- accumulates. Her goal: to gather some California poppies and purple needlegrass, of two native wildflowers. In other cases, ernment were near their apex, Sohappy of its seeds and whisk them off to a U.S. for example, as well as lesser-known va- the need to obtain access and permitting and his father were arrested at Cooks Department of Agriculture seed storage rieties like the seep monkeyflower and slowed down the collection process. Occa- Landing for illegally selling fish to under- facility in Fort Collins, Colorado. elegant clarkia. The collection process is sionally, researchers finally reached a site cover federal agents. Though they pled “I literally had people laugh at me now complete, and, given continued fund- only to find that the plants in question entrapment, both men received five-year when I said I was looking for that species,” ing, Project Baseline’s seed bank should be had already become locally extinct. sentences. “I remember him lying awake Schneider says. During the three years open for business by 2020. By then, evolu- And relocating those species for future on his bunk in prison, banging his fist she spent, from 2013 to 2015, collecting tionary changes could begin to be apparent. comparisons will likely be even more chal- against the wall,” Sohappy says. seeds from around the West, California Researchers can withdraw seeds from the lenging, as the “novel climate regime” now That Sohappy, once jailed as a poach- consistently had lower-than-average rain- collection and cultivate them for compari- taking hold disrupts their distribution, ac- er, now works as a tribal fisheries man- fall. The dry conditions made it nearly son to specimens that have continued to cording to Susan Mazer, a UC Santa Bar- ager is a sign of how far the Northwest impossible to find the damp environ- evolve in the wild. They can then study the bara professor and the project’s principal has come. Salmon runs, though still just ment that Mimulus guttatus calls home. changes each species exhibits over time. investigator in the West. In response, the a vestige of their pre-dam glory, are stron- Eventually, however, Schneider found a The project provides a level of experi- project has focused on protected wilder- ger than they’ve been in decades, and few specimens in Northern California and mental control that evolutionary scien- ness areas, where species are less likely to fishing has reassumed its prominence in in other states, and was able to deposit tists are rarely afforded. In the past, for be impacted by human development. Native life. Fifty years ago, when many their seeds in Project Baseline’s minus- instance, the absence of well-chronicled Now it’s up to the next generation of runs stood on extinction’s doorstep and of- 18-degree Celsius freezer. baselines has hampered research de- scientists to convert Project Baseline’s ficers tear-gassed Yakama fishermen for Until now, most institutional seed- signed to monitor how specific species inventory into a clearer understanding “trespassing,” it would have been almost banking initiatives have essentially mim- have evolved, says Julie Etterson, an as- of how plants are responding to climate impossible to imagine the Columbia River icked Noah’s Ark, stockpiling an array of sociate biology professor at the University change. Worsening drought and other teeming with Native-owned boats. wild species or crop varieties for conserva- of Minnesota Duluth and the lead princi- stresses are especially likely to leave a Some injustices, however, can never tion purposes, to be used only in the event pal investigator for the project. lasting imprint on the genetic composition be rectified. Sohappy’s own great-grand- of ecological catastrophe. Project Baseline, Scientists have often had to rely upon of Western plants. That’s why it’s so im- mother grew up alongside the Columbia, however, wants its inventory to be used for “happy accidents,” she says, in which re- portant to preserve a snapshot of the pres- but was forced to move away when her research. The hope is that its more than searchers stumbled across a few handfuls ent, right before what scientists expect to village was drowned by Drano Lake. “She of old seeds gleaned from frozen Alaskan be a tumultuous period. “This is the calm wanted to live near the river,” Sohappy Former HCN intern Bryce Gray covers energy and soils — or even, on occasion, from clean- before the storm,” says Schneider. “Of says. “She died waiting for the house the the environment at the St. Louis Post-Dispatch in ing out their laboratories’ refrigerators. course, they’re always adapting, but they government promised her they’d build.” Missouri.  @_BryceGray “But we can do better than that,” says represent a unique point in time.”

10 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 11 THE HCN COMMUNITY DEAR FRIENDS

RESEARCH FUND HARNESSING THE WIND, by Deon Reynolds Permanent collection at the Nevada Museum of Art, HCN in the classroom E. L. Wiegand Gallery Archive Collections at the Center for Art + Environment. It’s been a long, hot summer, says she still has “green blood.” but by the time this issue comes We don’t doubt it, Jean. Thank you, Research Fund In Harnessing the Wind, Deon Reynolds captures something rarely shown in photographs: the out, we’ll all be complaining force of the wind, as well as the eerie beauty of the turbines that channel its power. Reynolds In late July, newlyweds recently donated his photos of three wind power facilities to the Nevada Museum of Art’s Center that it’s almost over. If you’re Andrew and Natalie Kuhlmann donors, for giving for Art + Environment. In them, lonely white sentinels watch over grassy prairies, rainstorms and an academic type, already dropped by. They’d traveled mountain ranges, alone and in groups against dramatic backdrops in Nevada, California and contemplating the new semes- from Cheyenne, Wyoming, to Texas. Reynolds says he hopes the collection will open people’s eyes to renewable energy, helping ter, you might need an extra get married in nearby Glenwood us energy them to see the positive effects and potential beauty of incorporating this technology into mood boost. And we have just Springs, Colorado. Andrew, a Western landscapes. The center’s director, William Fox, says Reynolds’ photos “reveal the intricate the thing: the HCNU classroom senior assistant attorney gen- engineering behind wind turbines while capturing the character of the places in which they program, which provides free eral for the state of Wyoming, Since 1971, reader contributions to the Re- In memory of Moroni L. & Vivian N. Jensen | stand.” That, he says, is a “delicate and rare balance.” ANNA V. SMITH search Fund have made it possible for HCN Salt Lake City, UT subscriptions for you and your often deals with mining issues, to investigate and report on important issues William N. Aldrich | Napa, CA students. Professors and teach- he says, and appreciates our that are unique to the American West. Your Wind turbines on the Pattern Energy Spring Valley wind site in Spring Valley, Nevada, ers of any grade are welcome coverage. Natalie is an archives tax-deductible gift directly funds thought- Jim Aton | Cedar City, UT situated on 7,680 acres of BLM administered land. DEON REYNOLDS provoking, independent journalism. Kenny Ausubel | Santa Fe, NM to sign up. Call us, email hcnu@ technician for Wyoming, John Bartholow | Fort Collins, CO hcn.org, or see hcn.org/edu. digitizing records and helping Thank you for supporting our hardworking Summer’s end also brings the public with research. She journalists. Ezra & Liana Bayles | Taos, NM David & Ann Burlingame | Fort Worth, TX Lisa Houston | Palisade, CO us closer to Election Day. And was excited to see our stacks John Berry | Castle Rock, CO Dee Burton | Salt Lake City, UT Catherine Hunt | Enumclaw, WA while this year’s bewildering of bound HCN volumes going Susan Bolton | Seattle, WA Donald & Sheryl Butler | Tucson, AZ Jane Hunt & Ian MacCallum | Bigfork, MT presidential contest has domi- back to 1969. Next on the happy Kent H. Borges & Stephanie DiCenzo | Thomas Byde | Reno, NV Steen Hviid | Snowflake, AZ GUARANTOR Colorado Springs, CO nated the news, there are some couple’s itinerary: local winer- Sarah Campe | Three Rivers, CA Robin Kaai | Bend, OR Anonymous (2) Rodger & Diane Brown | Norman, OK great Western races to watch, ies and hot springs. Cheers and Julia Childs | Roscoe, MT Elizabeth Karplus | Orinda, CA Don Bachman & Cathy Cripps | Bozeman, MT Susan G. Clark | Guilford, CT too. HCN’s strength lies in congrats, Andrew and Natalie! M.B. Clark | Richmond, CA George Kelly & Jo Newhall | Livingston, MT Fran & William Irwin Charitable Fund | Francis Colwell | Placentia, CA our community of readers, so A few corrections: In a Bethesda, MD Frank W. Clifford | Santa Fe, NM Sheldon King | Colorado Springs, CO we’re requesting your help with Tom Crayton | Laramie, WY recent story focused on the Dave Cobrain | Santa Fe, NM Piera Kllanxhja | Grand Junction, CO political coverage. Which races Latino community and nature, Mike & Sue Daugherty | La Grande, OR Jen Colby | Salt Lake City, UT Carol Korich | Tucson, AZ should we be paying attention we incorrectly stated that José SPONSOR James Dorrough | Denver, CO Anonymous (5) Andrew Cole & Heather Poe | Littleton, CO Mark Kot | Rock Springs, WY to? Call us or tip us online: González applied to Redwoods Lamar Empey | Cody, WY In memory of Crystal Erickson | Las Vegas, NV Clara Cotten | Bloomington, IN Eugene A. Krieger | Deming, NM hcne.ws/election-coverage. National Park rather than to a David & Carol Farmer | El Prado, NM David & Gail Niebruegge | Vista, CA Howard F. Creed & Susan J. Packer | Bruce & Donna Kuehne | Sheridan, WY We always enjoy visitors to nonprofit organization for red- Steve Finger | Flagstaff, AZ Deedee & Dick O’Brien | Holladay, UT Providence, UT Barbara Lawrence-Smith, Ragged Blanket Ranch our Paonia, Colorado, head- woods conservation (“A new kind Roy Glauthier | Costa Mesa, CA Mark Pearson | Santa Fe, NM John & Linda Curtis | Silver Springs, NV Salome, AZ quarters, like Bryan Burke, from of outdoor group,” 6/27/16). In Robert Grau | Boulder, CO Roger Pool | Littleton, CO Joan S. Dainer | El Cajon, CA Joyce & Dan Leonard | Colton, WA Eloy, Arizona, who took a break our July 25 issue, we wrote that Thomas Hager | Sedona, AZ Mike Raymond | Gallatin Gateway, MT Kathleen M. Delzell | Bayfield, CO Karen Lodinger | Rockville, UT from trail running along the William Keebler, the Utah man Sue Halliday, Four Korners Investment | Philip Dennis | Ottawa, KS Brett Lorenzen | Des Moines, IA Colorado River to say hello. He’s charged in June with attempting Mike & Mary Rust | Mount Vernon, WA Moab, UT Robert Dickensheets | Mukilteo, WA Leslie Lovejoy & Mark Ensner | Clark, CO attempting to run the length of to blow up a BLM building in Jack Sawaske | Carpinteria, CA Mary & Gordon Harward | Granby, CO Joseph & Sylvia DiPrisco | Jackson, WY Ron Lutsko Jr., Lutsko Associates Landscape | the river, along with all tribu- Arizona, had previously scouted John & Catherine Smith | Crow, OR Lillian Hayes | Provo, UT Scott McKay | Nephi, UT In honor of Charles Jonkel | Missoula, MT Gus Dizerega | Sebastopol, CA San Francisco, CA taries 50 miles or longer. Over the site with Lavoy Finicum, Sara Smith | Missoula, MT Thomas Hester | Silver City, NM Danette & Michael Meyer | Livermore, CO In honor of Parks Landis | Mount Dora, FL Robert Dozono | Milwaukie, OR Michael Madden | Montara, CA the last few years, he’s done a spokesman for the occupiers Peter Thompson | Hobart, WA Martin A. Jackson | Lakeside, AZ Arnold Miller | Lynnwood, WA In honor of Jeff & Phillip Matschke | Phoenix, AZ Paul Dremann | Salt Lake City, UT Thomas & Teri Mader | Cooper Landing, AK 2,300 miles and has just 800 at Oregon’s Malheur National Nan Stockholm Walden & Richard Walden | Stephen Knapp | Louisville, CO Sahuarita, AZ Alan Moore & Carol Harden | Middlebury, VT In memory of Virginia Blunt | Cañon City, CO Colette Eastman | Poway, CA Jeff Manley | Boise, ID more to go. Good luck, Bryan! Wildlife Refuge (“FBI nabs A.R. Kruckeberg | Shoreline, WA Darlene Watt | Rancho Murieta, CA Jan Moss | Driggs, ID In memory of Thomas Croarke | Yankee Hill, CA Michael G. Ebeling | Portland, OR Timothy March | Boulder, CO Longtime subscriber Jean suspected BLM bomber”). That Victoria Langenheim & Kevin Schmidt | Jim Nelson | Redding, CA In memory of Rolland Peacock | Broomfield, CO Nancy Markham | Santa Maria, CA Rodeck came by in early July to information, published in the Betty & Bill Weida | McCall, ID San Mateo, CA Keith Edge | Deer Lodge, MT Clete Nolde | Lakewood, CO In memory of John Ross | Steamboat Springs, CO Michael A. McClave | Nine Mile Falls, WA share stories from her long ca- FBI’s criminal complaint, was James C. Woods | Littleton, CO Rudy Larsen | Glenn, CA Adrian Esparza | Los Ojos, NM Susan Olsen | Anchorage, AK Susan Abbe Yates | Seattle, WA Dorothy Evans | Twisp, WA Devon McFarland | Trinidad, CO reer as an interpretive planner incorrect; the agency now says Kathleen Lucich & Walt Matell | Sparks, NV at the National Park Service. Finicum did not scout the loca- PATRON Allen Onweiler | Stockton, CA Fred Adams | Waldron, WA Ferndog’s Finishing | Oak Creek, CO Michael & Blakely Mechau | Palisade, CO Jedeane Macdonald | Denver, CO She’s worked at more than 100 tion with Keebler. HCN regrets Anonymous (6) Roger & Patricia Otstot | Billings, MT James Agee | Redlands, CA Karen Flagg, Growing Solutions | Doug Melton | Miles City, MT Matt Mattison & LaVonne Hammelman | parks in the Southwest and Molson, WA Regula Pepi | Medford, OR Dani Allred | Driggs, ID Santa Barbara, CA Darrell & Gerri Meyer | Castle Valley, UT the errors. In honor of Barney T. Burns Alaska, and though she’s been —Paige Blankenbuehler, Bill McCabe | Santa Fe, NM Hank Phibbs & Leslie Petersen | Wilson, WY Julie Alpert | Peach Springs, AZ Jeanne Flowers | Ketchum, ID Ronald Mizia | Idaho Falls, ID In honor of Don M. 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Harper | Missoula, MT Constance Pope | Hillsboro, OR FRIEND Andrew Bucchiere & Marilyn Schiveley | High Country News | P.O. Box 1090 | Paonia, CO 81428 | 800-905-1155 | hcn.org 48:13 Folsom, CA David Hartley | Millbrae, CA Myron & Lamona Price | Dove Creek, CO In honor of Buster Babes, Paonia, CO, Jean Rodeck of Woodland Park, Colorado, visits HCN. PAIGE BLANKENBUEHLER and most of Lamborn Mesa George Buckner | Salem, OR Richard Helfrich | Vida, OR S.O. Williams III | Albuquerque, NM 12 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 13 FEATURE | BY CALLY CARSWELL

Line of Descent Management missteps and turf wars have left endangered Mexican wolves dangerously inbred — and desperate for new blood

n a breezy January day, in a double-wide outside Alpine, Arizona, a wolf lay on a large wooden conference table. He was tranquilized but very much alive. His ribs rose and fell, and his body twitched. He was blindfolded and Omuzzled, and compulsively licked his dark nose. His white, black and cinnamon-colored fur was long and coarse, except around the ears, where it was soft. Veterinarian Susan Dicks massaged his belly. It felt mushy, like raw meat. It felt like he’d had a meal. The people in the room spoke in whispers and worked quickly. Hands gloved in black latex, a few of them jockeyed around the table, drawing blood, administering vaccines, measuring the wolf’s long, pearly canines, and swabbing the dart wound on his rump. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service had captured him during its annual winter census, when agency biologists try to count every endangered Mexican wolf in the forested mountains of western New Mexico and eastern Arizona. His “name” was M1296, “M” for male, and biologists caught him in order to replace his radio collar. It was remarkable that he was here at all. In April 2013, he stepped in a trap set for coyotes on private land in New Mexico, and it took biologists three hours to reach him. “He had abrasions, broken teeth. He just looked ter- rible,” recalled Julia Smith, who works out of this field of- fice for the Arizona Game and Fish Department. “I thought, ‘He’s not going to make it.’ ” He did make it, though, and even found a mate. Then another setback: In 2014, an unknown gunman shot her. Eventually, M1296 wooed another female, F1439. They

Pups of the Prieto Pack in June, at just over a month old. When a U.S. Fish and Wildlife biologist approached for a quick hands-o assessment and photograph, the pups scurried inside to huddle together for safety at the back of the den. U.S. FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE INTERAGENCY FIELD TEAM

14 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 15 ous rattlesnakes, speeding vehicles, or humans willing to risk a $100,000 fine At the Alpine Field to shoot a wolf. So the first wolves to run Station, veterinarian free in 1998 had pure McBride pedigrees. Susan Dicks works with the team Meanwhile, biologists bred the F-1 to take a blood wolves with each other, with McBride sample, administer wolves, and with the offspring of F-1 pairs. vaccinations and Once the animals reproduced — deposit- take general medical ing their genetic legacies, so to speak, in information, before the bank — they could be released if simi- returning M1296 lar wolves existed in captivity. In theory, it to the wild. was important to get valuable animals on CHRISTINA SELBY the ground sooner than later, while they were in their prime, and the population still tiny and easy to mold. Because of the limited gene pool, genetic variation would inevitably decrease with each generation. Parents pass on only half of their genes to each pup, and due to random chance, rare genes can disappear quickly from small populations. Over time, more common genes can be lost, too. But if biologists “If they were used the F-1s and their offspring to grow allowed the wild population quickly, they could slow the rate of loss, increasing its chances to just be of long-term survival. On June 11, 2002, federal biologists wolves, they released AF521, her mate and seven off- spring into a pen in the Apache-Sitgreaves might have National Forest. Made of nylon mesh, the succeeded pen was no match for the anxious wolves’ strong jaws, and, as intended, they chewed in an their way out the same day. Biologists called the new pack Bluestem, after the extraordinary slender native bunchgrasses growing in way.” the wolves’ new home turf. In the wild, AF521 became “the ulti- —Rich Fredrickson, Justin Martens, a established a territory, and earned a name, This situation arose partly as a mat- western subspecies landed on the endan- wolves a chance, if a slim one. Biologists of inbreeding in the captive Mexican mate super wolf,” Fredrickson says. She an independent wildlife biologist the Mangas Pack. At 74 pounds, M1296 ter of legacy: Our conversion from killing gered list in 1976, they were extinct in had given up on finding more wild wolves, wolves for Fish and Wildlife. AF521 — had pups in 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and population geneticist with the U.S. Fish was healthy and well-fed. On a scale of 1 to Mexican wolves to trying to save them the U.S., with perhaps 50 still roaming so they coupled Nina and her descendants the female whose genes are so ubiquitous 2007, successfully raising the 2006 litter who studies Mexican and Wildlife Service, 5, Dicks rated his body condition a 4. has been fraught and incomplete. Some the Sierra Madre. Before they could even as best they could. One pair, Francisco in the wild today — was an F-1 wolf. She even after the death of her first mate. wolves carries wolf M1296 On the surface, things seemed to be people idolize los lobos and some people consider returning Mexican wolves to the and Sheila, both Nina’s grandchildren, was born on May 3, 1997, at a Colorado Her offspring grew up to head their own of the Mangas Pack looking up for the entire Mexican wolf resent them, and the Fish and Wildlife wild, federal biologists had to prevent the reproduced so readily that wolf advocates Springs zoo, where her keepers named packs — Dark Canyon, Paradise, Hawk’s from a helicopter, population. In 1998, after Mexican wolves Service answers to both. Officials have nicknamed them Adam and Eve. her Estrella, Spanish for “star.” Nest, and to this day, the Bluestem Pack. after the wolf was animal’s total disappearance. To do that, darted and sedated. were poisoned and shot out of existence released wolves to the wild, then yanked they needed to nab Mexico’s last strag- Then came another lucky break. In As the captive population grew, wild Several more genetically valuable Biologists replaced here, the Fish and Wildlife Service rein- them back out, a push-and-pull that is now glers, and breed them in captivity. the early 1990s, genetic tests showed that recovery seemed increasingly possible, packs gained freedom around the same the animal’s radio troduced 11 wolves, with the initial goal forcing a sort of reckoning. Can the agency There was one person who knew wolves at a Mexico City zoo and at Tuc- and Fish and Wildlife turned its atten- time. “If they were allowed to just be collar before of growing their numbers to 100. After finally surmount the Southwest’s compli- where to find them: A rangy trapper from son’s Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, tion to the human side of the equation. wolves,” Fredrickson imagines, the releasing him years of struggle, the population crossed cated politics and ensure a future for the Texas named Roy McBride, whom ranch- once suspected of being wolf-dog hybrids, The agency’s unwritten policy was that population “might have succeeded in an back into the Gila that threshold for the first time in 2015. animals? ers hired to protect their livestock. “Mc- were in fact pure Mexican wolf. They it wouldn’t release wolves against states’ extraordinary way.” But unlike the vast National Forest. Biologists counted 110 animals, a 25 “The window of opportunity for this Bride,” wrote Rick Bass in The Ninemile were also highly inbred, but by crossing wishes. And while Arizona cautiously roadless core of Idaho and Yellowstone CHRISTINA SELBY percent increase over the previous year. species is closing,” says Mike Phillips, Wolves, “is such a legend in the South- the Aragon and Ghost Ranch lines with supported reintroduction over some National Park, where Northern Rockies M1296 was among 97 wolves counted in executive director of the Turner Endan- west that on both sides of the border a McBride wolves, biologists could stir the ranchers’ objections, New Mexico Gov. gray wolves were reintroduced, this was a this year’s census. gered Species Fund, a longtime partner motto developed, ‘Let McBride do it.’ ” gene pool, and delay the perilous effects Gary Johnson refused to allow wolf re- landscape worked by people, and grazed Yet trouble lurks even in these in Mexican wolf recovery. “The clock is McBride hunted cougars in Texas and of inbreeding, perhaps for decades. leases into his state. So Fish and Wildlife by cows. It wasn’t easy to just let wolves historic numbers. As the population not the Mexican wolf’s friend.” wolves in Mexico, where they devoured The captive population would now developed a politically palatable plan. It be wolves. expands, it’s also edging toward a genetic cattle after humans clobbered wild have seven founders, not a lot, but a classified the wolves as a “non-essential crisis, and the larger the population gets, BIOLOGISTS OFTEN SAY that restoring ungulate populations. He once spent over jackpot under the circumstances. “Other experimental” population, providing ON APRIL 4, 2005, Barbara and Bill the harder it will be to avert. M1296 is wolves to their former territory is less a year chasing the legendary wolf Las populations have recovered from small latitude to remove problem animals, and Marks sat down to dinner after dark. descended from a fantastically successful about wolves than about people. Wolves Margaritas, blamed for killing 96 cows on numbers,” says Phil Hedrick, an Arizona agreed to free new wolves only on a small The couple lives beside the Blue River in matriarch called AF521, “A” for alpha. are easy. At one time, they flourished a single ranch. McBride finally outwitted State University geneticist, who recom- swatch of national forest in Arizona. If eastern Arizona, on a ranch that’s been in His mate is, too. Their story is typical. In from the frozen Arctic plain to the perpet- him by building a fire over a trap, letting mended crossing the three lineages. “We they wandered into New Mexico, however, Bill’s family for 125 years. The Markses fact, biologists know of only one breed- ual summer of Mexico’s Sierra Madre. So it burn out, and placing a scrap of dried were somewhat optimistic.” they could stay. The so-called Blue Range keep a garden, eat their own beef, and ing female in the wild that isn’t related long as there are animals to eat — moose, skunk in the ashes. Aragon-McBride and Ghost Ranch- Recovery Area encompassed 7,000 square feel as much a part of their remote can- to AF521. Wolves shouldn’t sleep with elk, deer, javelina, antelope, salmon — In the late ’70s, the Fish and Wildlife McBride parents gave birth to 47 pups miles straddling the states’ shared bor- yon as the cottonwoods, willows, alders their relatives for the same reason people and water to drink, wolves will do just Service asked McBride to return to Mex- between 1997 and 2002. Geneticists call der. If any wolves strayed beyond it, the and pines. They had just hosted a friend’s shouldn’t. Inbreeding can cause danger- fine. Unless people see them as a threat. ico, this time to capture wolves alive. It the offspring F-1s, because they came feds would capture and relocate them, or wedding reception, and with the guests ous disorders, depress fertility, and even Mexican wolves were an exception was a tough assignment: The country was from the crossing of two distinct fam- return them to captivity. now gone, they remarked on how silent make small populations more vulnerable to this rule in one sense: The animals big and rough, and the wolves were few. ily lines. And they had an advantage no The F-1s offered the best opportu- the canyon felt. to extinction. But right now, the South- weren’t actually easy. When Fish and He caught just five, and only one female, subsequent generation would enjoy: They nity to re-establish a genetically viable Then the dogs in an outdoor pen west’s Mexican wolves don’t have much Wildlife reintroduced their larger cousins dubbed Nina. Initially, Nina’s reproductive weren’t inbred at all. population on the Blue Range. But for started to bark, and their indoor dogs be- choice. On average, they share about as in the Northern Rockies, the agency was prospects looked poor. For two years, she “The F-1s were super wolves,” says the first few years, they were too young gan agitating to go out. Barbara figured much genetic material as siblings do. able to draw on robust, wild Canadian failed to conceive. Then, in 1981, some- Rich Fredrickson, an independent popu- and too valuable to release. Even the best raccoons were getting into a feed bin, so They need new blood, and quick. populations. But by the time the South- thing clicked. The new litter gave Mexican lation geneticist, who is evaluating effects breeding isn’t insurance against venom- she let the dogs out and sat back down.

16 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 17 “All of a sudden, the barking kicked tolerance for wolves by improving com- died from poachers’ bullets than any up an octave,” and moved closer to the munication and giving people clear ex- other cause. house, she says. “I opened the door, and pectations for how management decisions Still, the genetic consequences of SOP the dogs almost knocked me down. Then would be made. The Markses appreciated 13 are real. “They removed all the most we saw the wound” — four tooth-sized the change. They had never supported successful, competitive packs except for punctures on the hip of Rocky, a large the wolf program, but now they at least one,” Fredrickson says. “And that was hound mix — “and it was like, ‘Oh, my felt as if their concerns were being heard. the Bluestem Pack.” Meanwhile, without gosh, the wolves are out there.’ ” Environmentalists, on the other hand, New Mexico release options, the postage- “I opened the It wasn’t the couple’s first run-in with thought the committee catered too much stamp-sized Arizona recovery zone filled the Aspen Pack, released the previous to ranchers. up fast. Unleashing more wolves there door, and the summer and headed by an F-1 male Whatever the case, when combined was likely to cause strife between packs, and a female with genes from all three with the ban on new releases in New or prompt animals to wander outside the dogs almost lineages. After a series of incidents on Mexico, the committee frayed the wolves’ zone, forcing the agency to catch them. knocked me their grazing allotments — cows missing fragile genetic prospects. In 2005, it So while biologists pulled wolf after wolf tails, one falling off a bluff, cows bunch- adopted a list of so-called “standard from the wild, they released just five down. ing together as they do when wolves operating procedures” for field opera- more new animals from captivity. are around — the Markses moved their tions. The 13th item on the list — SOP The result: As of early 2016, 19 of Then we saw pregnant heifers and cow-calf pairs to 13 — outlined how the agencies would 21 pairs in the Blue Range contained at their home pasture. Feeding them hay deal with problem wolves. It said that least one descendant of the Bluestem the wound, was more expensive, but minimized the any wolf known or believed to have killed Pack. In 11 of those, both wolves were and it was risk of loss. After the dogs tumbled in the three cows in a 365-day period “shall be part of the family. Something had to give. door, though, Bill went out and found a permanently removed from the wild as calf with a minor leg injury. Even here, expeditiously as possible.” ABOUT AN HOUR SOUTH OF ALBUQUER- like, ‘Oh, my ^ Photo will fill space... their livestock didn’t seem safe. Since “The sentiment is kind of correct,” QUE, Maggie Dwire parked a government gosh, the the previous September, neighbors had says Maggie Dwire, Fish and Wildlife’s SUV at the mouth of a gentle, crumbling wolves are reported the wolves for harassing pets or assistant Mexican wolf recovery coordina- canyon in the Sevilleta National Wild- cattle on several occasions. “None of us tor. “You want to remove wolves who are life Refuge. Dwire started working with out there.’ ” slept very well while the Aspen Pack was repeat offenders.” And the protocol was Mexican wolves as an intern in 2000. She in here,” Barbara recalls. effective, she says, at stopping killings was just out of college, in what she now —Barbara Marks, After growing up in captivity, Mexi- in certain areas plagued by clear preda- calls a “wolves-are-amazing phase.” She’d Arizona rancher can wolves had to learn how to be wild, tion patterns. But it was also inflexible heard tidy stories from Yellowstone, about and some seemed too comfortable around at a time when the population needed to wolves keeping elk on the move, suppos- people. Such incidents weren’t the norm, grow. “It wasn’t like it was just remov- edly allowing overgrazed riparian corri- but they tried people’s patience and put ing wolves that killed three cows in two dors to explode with new life. The reality, locals on edge, says Chris Bagnoli, who weeks,” she says. Wolves implicated in it turns out, is more complicated, and led the Arizona Game and Fish Depart- killings months apart — one in January, Dwire’s views have evolved, too. “I went ment’s Mexican wolf field team from one in April, one in December — were from believing ‘Wolves change rivers,’ to 2008 to 2013. They also fed deep, wide- also targeted, and whole packs were ‘Actually, they’re just wolves,’ ” she said. spread suspicion of the federal govern- removed, even if only one or two animals “Sometimes, I really hate them.” Chronic ment. in the bunch were at fault. cow-killers frustrate biologists, too. Early on, the state of Arizona pushed From 2005 to 2008, federal officials It was a bright, warm April day, and When a genetically important pack Game Commission voted to stop cooperat- days later, Fish and Wildlife moved for- Two Mexican wolf for a stronger hand in management, captured 55 wolves, and shot nine. in the distance, the Rio Grande painted a called Middle Fork killed 10 cows within ing with wolf recovery altogether. ward with a different, and more unusual, pups, just in from A graphic sign believing the project lacked effective Poachers killed 13 more. The wild popu- ribbon of green through the brown, brittle two months during SOP13’s phase-out, The same commission declined to genetic infusion. the Endangered Wolf in Reserve, New leadership, Bagnoli says. In 2003, Fish lation had grown steadily until 2003, but landscape. Dwire and another biolo- for example, biologists got creative. Haz- issue permits for the wolves’ release. In Center in St. Louis, Mexico. Many and Wildlife agreed to establish a col- under SOP13, the line stopped climbing gist filled buckets with sawed-off frozen ing didn’t work because the wolves had a June 2015 letter, Alexandra Sandoval, ON THE MORNING OF APRIL 23, Regina get packed into residents of the laborative committee led by Arizona, and and started to zigzag, dropping to 35 elk legs and five-pound logs of chopped pups to feed, and therefore couldn’t move the director of the New Mexico Game and Mossotti, director of animal care and the Gila National town, in the heart Forest by a team of wolf country, including representatives from state, animals, spiking to 59. The number of horsemeat, which resembled giant hot- far, and cows were plentiful in the area. Fish Department, pointed out that the conservation at the Endangered Wolf from the Mexican oppose the wolf federal and tribal agencies. It assumed breeding pairs fell from six in 2006, to dogs. They loaded them into an ATV and “We literally had a cow trip in their den,” feds still lack clear criteria for a success- Center near St. Louis, Missouri, caught a Wolf Recovery recovery program. the lead in managing the wild wolves. three in 2007, to two in 2008. “We were drove east, into the canyon, to a halfway Dwire recalled. “That’s when we started to ful recovery. Their official plan dates to flight to Albuquerque. Her carry-on was Program in April. CHRISTINA SELBY Bagnoli says the goal was to increase removing too many wolves,” Dwire says house for wolves. In tall chainlink pens, come up with, ‘Well, what if we feed them? 1982, before anyone knew if reintroduc- a soft-shell dog carrier, which she slid The team scared off bluntly. And the removals didn’t seem to just under an acre in size, were two pairs, What if we move the cows?’ It sort of was tion would even be possible. And until under the seat. Two 9-day-old wolf pups a new mom from cut ranchers’ total losses. In fact, wolves the females in each possibly pregnant. part of our turning point in managing for they clearly state just how many wolves lay inside, so new to the world they had the Sheepherders killed cows at a substantially higher rate Both the pairs had genes from the wolves instead of managing for cows.” The they envision on the landscape, the state yet to open their eyes. They could squirm, Baseball Park Pack, during this period than in previous years. wolves found at the Mexico City zoo — agency now frequently caches roadkill and won’t endorse releases. but not yet walk, and resembled tiny then mingled her It wasn’t only the numbers that mat- the rarest in the wild — as well as Ghost logs of horsemeat during denning season Fish and Wildlife’s national director, Ewoks, with helmet-shaped heads, short pups with the St. Louis pups so their tered — it was the individual wolves. Ranch and McBride heritage. In a couple to make cattle less tempting, and works Dan Ashe, was forced to break the im- snouts and thumbprint-sized ears. They smells were similar, The Aspen Pack was captured after the of months, the feds planned to deploy one with the U.S. Forest Service and ranchers passe. In October 2015, he sent Sando- slept most of the flight. before placing them Marks ranch incident and moved to New of these small captive-born families on to try to rotate pastures to create distance val a letter of his own. The agency was She was delivering the pups to federal all deep in the den as Mexico, where it killed a number of cows. yet another genetic improvement mis- between denning wolves and livestock. taking a stand: It could not fulfill its biologists in New Mexico’s Gila National a new, bigger family. It was yanked for good in 2007. So was sion. This one, though, was unusual: For In 2015, Fish and Wildlife also legal obligation to recover wolves without Forest, who would insert them into the den U.S. FISH AND the genetically valuable Saddle Pack, the first time, the Fish and Wildlife Ser- rewrote its old ground rules, finally al- bucking the state and moving forward of the Sheepherders Baseball Park Pack, or WILDLIFE SERVICE which had already lost its original F-1 vice intended to openly defy New Mexico lowing new releases in New Mexico, and with the release. SBP, for short. The pack had five new pups alpha male –– shot in 2004 for killing officials and release the wolves directly giving wolves more room to roam. But David Parsons, who headed the Mexi- exactly the same age, but the two from cows. Adults with three strikes got life into their state. it still tries to honor the states’ wishes can wolf project in the ’90s, and is now a Missouri had valuable DNA. The hope was sentences. Their pups were eligible for It was to be the boldest move yet in whenever possible. So officials asked New wolf advocate, says the move was unprec- that the SBP pack would raise the foster parole, but while many were freed, few the agency’s growing effort to get the re- Mexico for permits to free the Sevilleta edented. “We haven’t seen anything like pups as their own, and in a couple years, survived long back in the wild. covery back on track and avert a genetic wolves in the Gila or Aldo Leopold wil- it since I first took the job in 1990.” Until that they would go on to breed. Bagnoli says the removals were nec- crisis. In 2009, after environmentalists derness areas. now, he notes, “Virtually every advance While Mossotti was en route, bi- essary. “You can’t just say, ‘Well, we’re brought a lawsuit over the rash of remov- It was a long shot: While former in the history of the Mexican wolf pro- ologists Allison Greenleaf and Janess going to leave them out there because als, the feds disbanded the state-led com- Democratic Gov. Bill Richardson sup- gram has been spurred by lawsuits that Vartanian staked out the den, squinting they’re genetically important, too bad mittee and abandoned SOP 13. They’d ported wolf recovery, Republican Susana force the Fish and Wildlife Service to do through binoculars at the wolves. They for the people who live there.’ ” Recovery since removed far fewer wolves, and Martinez has fought hard against envi- the right thing.” stayed quiet, being sneaky, not wanting to won’t work, he says, if humans remain implemented new measures to reduce ronmental agendas since taking office in This spring, the state fired back, de- spook the parents and risk them mov- hostile. Since 1998, more wolves have conflict with livestock. 2011. That year, her politically appointed claring its intention to sue. Even so, just ing the litter. When their radio crackled

18 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 19 MARKETPLACE

and a voice announced that the Missouri pups were near, they headed for the den, Notice to our advertisers: You can place Home-office position – Looking for hard- that communications and marketing activities CONFERENCES AND EVENTS talking in normal voices. The frightened classified ads with our online classified sys- working, self-motivated individuals. Be own are focused, that outreach to members, the female popped out, and took off. tem. Visit http://classifieds.hcn.org. Aug. 8 boss. Customer service. www.laecoteam.com. public and opinion leaders is consistent and Glacier Peak/Georgia Pass Volunteer A vet and another biologist arrived is the deadline to place your print ad in the effective, and that we grow our audiences. To Restoration Project – Free! No experience Aug. 22 issue. Call 800-311-5852, or e-mail view the full job announcement and apply, needed! Amazing meals provided! Come with the pups, and Greenleaf — a petite EMPLOYMENT 5-foot-2 — wedged into a small nook in [email protected] for help or information. visit www.idahoconservation.org/about/ join Wildlands Restoration Volunteers for a a rocky outcrop, and grabbed five fur For current rates and display ad options, visit Executive Director – We are looking for an job-openings/. weekend of camping, ecological restoration hcn.org/advertising. Executive Director. Please visit missouribreaks. and meeting new friends. Come restore a scar balls from the den. Wearing gloves and org/blog for more info. Executive Director — Western Water- on the alpine landscape that is not part of long sleeves, her hair covered by a blue Advertising Policy: We accept advertising sheds Project, a West-wide nonprofit con- the Travel Management Plan and parallels bandanna to minimize her scent traces, because it helps pay the costs of publishing Conservation Director – Idaho Rivers servation advocacy organization, is seeking a a more sustainable road, which will remain, she handed the pups to Vartanian, who a high-quality, full-color magazine, where United – IRU’s Conservation Director is the qualified and committed Executive Director. providing a huge ecological gain without placed them in a burlap sack. topics are well-researched and reported senior staff position responsible for direct- The ED will oversee a dozen staff and contract cutting off access to large areas. After work On a nearby tarp, the pups got a Biologist Maggie Dwire releases a Mexican gray wolf that had been living at the Endangered in an in-depth manner. The percentage of ing our conservation program. Please visit employees in multiple field offices; ensure the each day, we will retire to camp for great quick exam, and then Greenleaf and Wolf Center in St. Louis into the wild in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest. USFWS the magazine’s income that is derived from http://www.idahorivers.org/conservation- financial health of the organization; review, meals and fun! Dates: Aug. 6-7 and Aug. Vartanian rubbed fur, dirt and duff from advertising is modest, and the number of director for the full job description. commit to and be comfortable with litigation 20-21: www.wlrv.org. the den on the transplants. One by one, from the wild, who will worsen the situa- day come from the North: Eventually, a advertising pages will not exceed one-third both strategically and procedurally; be the of our printed pages annually. “Virtually they held each pup above the rest and tion if they keep breeding. In his opinion, few influential migrants from the North- Field Organizer, Southwest Environ- face of the organization in the media; and interact with agencies and policymakers on a touched their genitals with a wet cotton the feds should have started yesterday. ern Rockies or Great Lakes could make mental Center – Mobilize public support for Mexican wolves, native wildlife and public range of conservation issues. Salary commen- every ball, stimulating them to pee on their But for the time being, they still can’t their way down, or be brought by biolo- BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES lands. Info at wildmesquite.org. surate with experience. Information: www. advance in siblings, old and new. Wolves can’t count, do anything in New Mexico. On June 10, gists. The Northern wolves are a different Conservationist? Irrigable land? Stellar westernwatersheds.org/jobs/. but have an excellent sense of smell, and a federal judge stopped Fish and Wildlife subspecies, but even scientists disagree seed-saving NGO is available to serious part- Senior Energy Policy Advisor wanted the history of covering the pups with the same scents in its tracks when it granted New Mexico on how important the distinction is. ner. Package must include financial support. Western Resource Advocates is seeking an Communications Manager, Northwest would prevent their mom from rejecting a preliminary injunction barring the “I proposed a few years ago, ‘Why not Details: http://seeds.ojaidigital.net. experienced Senior Energy Policy Advisor to Region – The Wilderness Society is looking the Mexican the interlopers. The pups went back in agency from releasing the packs being introduce that new blood now?’ ” says join our Clean Energy Program full-time in for an experienced Communications Man- wolf program the sack and Greenleaf went back in the held at the Sevilleta unless it gets state Mike Phillips, of the Turner Endangered Highly profitable outfitting business Nevada. For more info and how to apply: ager for our Northwest Region. Boise, Ida- den, placing them in a tidy pile. Later, permits. It’s not yet clear whether the Species Fund, which maintains a Mexi- and canoe livery for sale in Montana. Offering www.westernresourceadvocates.org. ho, is the preferred location. Seattle, Wash., fully guided trips as well as operating a very signals sent to their computers by the federal government will appeal. can wolf facility like the Sevilleta, on Ted may be considered. For more information, HOME AND GARDEN has been busy canoe and kayak livery in a national please visit our website: www.wilderness.org/ SBP adults’ GPS collars indicated that How big a blow this is to the wild Turner’s Ladder Ranch. Phillips suggested Communications Manager – The Idaho monument. The leading outfitter since careers-and-internships. AGGRAND Natural Liquid Fertilizers spurred by they had moved the pups to a new den. wolves depends on how long it takes to establishing a new captive population, Conservation League seeks dynamic com- 1965. Three-bedroom home, 40-foot-by-60- munications professional who is passionate Chemical dependent? Grow responsibly, Biologists also cross-fostered pups in and “salting the Mexican wolf genome” lawsuits that break the logjam. But further delays will foot warehouse, fleet of vans, trucks, trailers, about conservation. Based in our Boise of- Advocates for the West seeks Director naturally, easily with proven AGGRAND. two Arizona dens this spring, with that only make things worse, Fredrickson with just a hint of Northern genes. The over 70 canoes and kayaks. Turnkey. 1-877- fice, the Communications Manager advances of Strategic Partnerships — Nonprofit 877-486-7645, www.natural-fertilizers.com. force the Fish state’s support. Officials there say pups says: The population’s resiliency could idea hasn’t gone anywhere — yet. But the 538-4890. ICL’s mission by using all communications environmental law firm seeks fundraising raised by wild wolves will cause fewer decrease, even as its numbers grow. Then, populations mixed naturally in the past, and marketing channels, tactics and tools professional to join our senior staff team. Aquabot High-Pressure Water Bottles and Wildlife problems than captive adults and packs, an overall decline may be inevitable –– and it’s exactly how Fish and Wildlife available. The Communications Manager For more info: www.advocateswest.org/ Mist, shower and jet. Clean off, cool off, whose release they now oppose. Jim and it may happen quickly, as it did with saved the Florida panther, once things got works with statewide ICL team to ensure news/hiring. hydrate and have fun. www.lunatecgear.com. Service to Heffelfinger, wildlife science coordinator one population of wolves in Michigan. bad enough that males’ testicles stopped do the right for Arizona Game and Fish, even believes descending. In fact, when wildlife officials cross-fostering is sufficient to address the WOLVES ARRIVED IN MICHIGAN’S ISLE decided to introduce a subspecies from thing.” genetic issues. “There’s no detrimental ROYALE NATIONAL PARK in the late 1940s, Texas to mate with the inbred local cats, effect of inbreeding right now,” he says. after crossing an ice bridge in Lake Supe- they called Roy McBride to catch them. —David Parsons, And anyway, adults that are set free rior. The bridge formed only some years, former head of the aren’t guaranteed to survive to breed and isolating the population, which became MAGGIE DWIRE WAS BACK at the Sevilleta Mexican wolf project, enhance the population’s genetic make- extremely inbred. For years, it fluctuated now an advocate pens at sunrise in early July. Morning up, he adds. Indeed, wolves have often between 50 and 20 animals, and packs light glowed behind the canyon wall as she been shot or recaptured for bad behavior were still producing healthy litters. Some reached into a plywood box and grabbed shortly after release from captivity. “The scientists even thought the Isle Royale a pup cowering in the corner. “You’re just population is soaring without releases. wolves might be an exception to the rule a little thing,” Dwire said in a squeaky It’s not an emergency.” of small populations, which assumes that voice. The pup stiffened its spine, its eyes Fredrickson disagrees. Cross-fostering inbreeding heightens extinction risk. bulging, then, as if in protest, unleashed a on its own is “not going to be enough,” Then, in 2009, biologists discovered stream of urine on Dwire’s arm. The pup he argues. For one, the odds are stacked that the wolves had deformed backbones. was six weeks old, with a coat that resem- against cross-fostering efforts from the That same year, the population started bled peach fuzz more than fur. She was the get-go. To even attempt one, Mossotti to crash. Some of the wolves stopped sole survivor of her mom’s first litter. says, the “stars, moon and planets” have reproducing, they killed moose at lower Fish and Wildlife had planned to to align. Captive and wild packs have to rates, a few died after falling in a mine turn this pup and her parents loose this give birth in sync, so the foster pups are shaft. Last year, the population was down month. Right now, they might have been the same age and can blend in convinc- to three: a male and his daughter, who roaming unfettered across New Mexico’s ingly. Biologists have to intensively mon- was also his half-sister, and a younger forested hills. Instead, they had joined itor wild packs to know when mothers wolf, likely their pup. That wolf had a dozens of other captive wolves in a long den. And pups have just a 50 percent hunched back and a short tail. This year, and indefinite wait. chance of surviving to one year of age. it was gone. Dwire draped a white hand towel over On top of that, the jury’s still out on There is another lesson from Isle the pup’s head and took her to another whether negative impacts from inbreed- Royale, though. As it turned out, the enclosure, to be vaccinated and tagged. ing are already evident. Fredrickson and wolves were never as isolated as sci- Usually, young pups submit readily, Contributing editor others suspect that the feeding of den- entists thought. A male crossed the but this one flopped and writhed like a Cally Carswell writes ning wolves could be artificially boosting ice bridge in the ’90s and dramatically fish out of water. She weighed only five from Santa Fe, wild pups’ survival, potentially masking reduced the level of inbreeding. The story pounds, but Dwire, a fit former college New Mexico. inbreeding’s effects — and contributing to didn’t end well. Like AF521, he turned athlete, needed another biologist to help  @callycarswell the population increase that Heffelfinger out to be a little too successful. Still, it her hold the animal down. Even then, touts as proof of success. A real strategy, doesn’t take many new animals to make she put up a struggle. “She’s a singleton, This story was funded Fredrickson argues, will require not only a difference, and help stave off genetic so she might be pretty feisty,” Dwire by a grant from the McCune Charitable ramping up releases of captive-born ani- disaster for a few more generations. observed. “Who knows why the other ones Foundation. mals, but removing the most related ones For Mexican wolves, help could some died and she survived?”

20 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 21 MARKETPLACE

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22 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 23 WRITERS ON THE RANGE

would end the president’s power to use Anti-monument the 110-year-old Antiquities Act to cre- signs at the Bears Sometimes, the West must ate a national monument for the Bears Ears public hearing, Ears area. where Secretary of DeVoto saw this coming. There is a the Interior Sally clear line from those hearings in 1947 to Jewell heard from defend itself against itself people in favor the ones we’re seeing now, in 2016. The and opposed to a The more things change, the more The noted writer knew something of the nals to believe the worst of any federal ultimate goal then was not just to stop national monument those changes echo on into the future. West; he was born and raised in Ogden, agency and to disbelieve “long-haired grazing reductions or stymie national designation. Today, we need to listen more carefully Utah, and later wrote prize-winning scientists” who showed that overgraz- monuments; it was to discredit the fed- COREY ROBINSON than ever to a voice from the mid-20th regional histories. To DeVoto, the land- ing was a problem in the West. A slew of eral government and its rightful concern century, that of the writer and Western divestment scheme amounted to a full- so-called experts, ranchers and their poli- for conservation. “The future of the West historian, Bernard DeVoto. frontal assault on the country’s entire ticians made the case again and again hinges on whether it can defend itself At the recent GOP convention, the conservation program. He was right: The for giving free rein to the stock industry. against itself,” DeVoto said. party faithful approved a platform that naked power grab he warned us about Conservationists and witnesses who During this presidential campaign, directs Congress to give “certain public continues today, with stockgrowers now agreed with the Forest Service were allot- we can expect the Republican candi- lands” to the states. It’s an old strategy, joined by powerful oil and gas interests. ted 10 percent of the time for testimony. date and his followers to cite the party trotted out like a broken-down show They bristle at any restraints on their Unfounded rumors that the agency platform and offer yet more half-truths OPINION BY horse at a county fair. self-interest and argue that what they planned to disallow all grazing were about public-lands management. As ADAM M. In the mid-1940s, Western policy- call “local control” is always the answer. permitted without rebuttal. Entered DeVoto showed 69 years ago, lies told SOWARDS makers, mainly Republicans, sought to But DeVoto identified a deeper into the record without clarifications or often enough erode public discourse eliminate the federal Bureau of Land problem that had –– and still has –– the corrections, these fabrications circulated the Jackson Hole National Monument, call the Bears Ears National Conserva- and weaken governance. “Against such Management, remove grazing areas from potential to eat away at democracy itself. like crumpled dollar bills. Inflammatory which is now mostly protected in Grand tion Area. The bill’s proponents like the psychology as this,” DeVoto implored, Forest Service control, and put public In summer 1947, the House Subcom- rhetoric and showmanship overcame Teton National Park. Today, Rep. Rob collaborative process it enacts, yet the “only the force of the ballot can defend land on the path to state control and mittee on Public Lands began holding evidence, much as it does in our time. Bishop, a Utah Republican who chairs initiative in its flexible management the public interest.” private ownership. One privatization hearings in picturesque Western towns. In trying to expose the plot and set the the House Committee on Natural Re- plans clearly favors grazing and energy bill passed the House in 1946 and even Its short-term objective was to stop the record straight, DeVoto demonstrated sources, hopes to prevent the creation of producers. The Nature Conservancy, Adam M. Sowards is an environmental enjoyed the support of Interior Secretary Forest Service from reducing the number that public hearings –– just like party the Bears Ears National Monument by long a partner in the process, recently historian at the University of Idaho. Julius Krug, a Democrat. of grazing permits on public lands, even conventions –– work as political theater. establishing two national conservation announced it cannot back this bill. In Sounding the alarm against these though overgrazing had seriously com- Back then, as now, a national monu- areas instead, a designation that offers addition, the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Co- WEB EXTRA Writers on the Range is a syndicated service of To see all the current terrible proposals came DeVoto’s pre- promised many of those rangelands. ment was in the news. In the mid-1940s, less protection from development. alition, representing dozens of tribes, has High Country News, providing three opinion col- Writers on the Range scient voice from his “Easy Chair” col- The legislative hearings were stacked Rep. Frank Barrett, a Wyoming Repub- Bishop and his supporters like to declared that it wants the area protected umns each week to more than 200 media outlets columns, and archives, umn in Harper’s magazine. His warnings with sympathetic audiences who had lican who chaired the traveling public- tout their Utah Public Lands Initiative, by a national monument. Meanwhile, around the West. For more information, contact visit hcn.org are still relevant seven decades later. been primed by stockgrower trade jour- lands subcommittee, hoped to abolish which includes an alternative that they Bishop has proposed a “Partner Act” that Betsy Marston, [email protected], 970-527-4898.

Photo Contest In honor of the 100th birthday of the National Park Service, we’re dedicating this year’s photo contest to the parks you love. Show us what you treasure about your favorite park(s), located in one of the 11 Western states or Alaska. Winning images will be published online and may be printed in the magazine. Winners are eligible for prizes from MindShift Gear. www.hcn.org/photos16 Submit your photos: Aug. 1–31 Vote for your favorites: Sept. 1–15

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Grand Teton National Park 2013 by Gord McKenna

24 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 25 BOOKS ESSAY | BY MICHAEL BAUGHMAN Sex, death and spaghetti On March 27, 2016, Jim Harrison died at attempts to cope with his own mortal- state of relentless fear”; later, she returns his home in Patagonia, Arizona, a final ity and decrepitude; he’s single, plagued to Montana to run a family farm, yearn- poem left unfinished on his desk. Some with prostate discomfort, and, if his tryst ing for “the old Montana of her childhood writers leave too soon; others, like Harri- is discovered, ticketed for incarceration. before so many rich people moved west.” son, depart when they’re good and ready. “The poignant fear was that if he went to She prefers the company of chickens to He had lived hard, first in Michigan and prison at sixty-six years of age he likely men — more domestic animals! — but later in Montana, where his prodigious wouldn’t get out until age seventy-six,” yearns for a baby. Her flock of hens, and appetites combined with his love of hunt- Harrison writes, “and by then he’d proba- their profligate egg-laying, reminds her ing and fishing to create a persona both bly be too weak to fish and wade swift riv- of her childlessness. Like Harrison’s best urbane and rugged, a sort of backwoods ers.” Lust in Harrison’s books is usually work, Eggs effortlessly bridges decades; bon vivant. His face, rough-hewn and a joyous, worshipful affair; in Buddhas, its delight lies in watching Catherine find, canny, was that of a man who had lived however, Sunderson comes off as creepy lose, and find herself again in the comfort several lifetimes. “He was active and cre- and weak. The author’s predilection for of her land. “It seemed to her that her life ative to the end, but it was time to go: No pairing nubile Lolitas with dirty old men was accelerating in a direction she had one was less suited to assisted living,” his has never been his most appealing qual- chosen,” Harrison writes, “but at a speed friend, the novelist Thomas McGuane, ity, but there’s no satisfaction in watching she couldn’t quite emotionally encompass.” wrote in The New Yorker. the noose close around the pedophile. The speed of life has now swept Jim Although Harrison’s oeuvre encom- The best of Minstrel’s three novellas is Harrison away in its current; may we all passed screenplays, poetry, essays and the second, Eggs, which stars a lissome, face our ends so gracefully. Harrison is GONE food reviews — including an ode to a brainy and precocious heroine named too introspective to avoid obsessing about 37-course French lunch — he’s most Catherine. (She’s cast from the same mold death, but his joie de vivre is too great renowned for his novellas. Harrison has as Sarah, the star of Harrison’s 2009 to permit him to wallow in it. In The been synonymous with the form since his novella The Farmer’s Daughter; Harrison Ancient Minstrel, melancholy is swiftly 1979 masterpiece Legends of the Fall, a has a knack for identifying successful banished by gastronomy. “It didn’t work FISHING continent-spanning reflection on betrayal archetypes.) Catherine’s saga resembles to try to write about sex, doom, death, and revenge that paints a kill-or-be-killed the globetrotting arc of Legends of the time, and the cosmos,” he opines, “when portrait of the West. By comparison, Fall: She spends her formative years in you were thinking about a massive plate Harrison’s last collection of novellas, The London during World War II with her of spaghetti and meatballs.” Ancient Minstrel, published just weeks grandparents, who live out the Blitz “in a BY BEN GOLDFARB n the 19th century, in a letter to his Our most recent outing together tied on a steelhead pattern, a No. 6 Ten-year-old Jake before his death, has a narrower scope: wife, Leo Tolstoy wrote that “the was on the upper Rogue River, water Skunk. Jake quartered his casts across shes at Lake of the It’s mostly preoccupied with pigs. purest joy of all is the joy of nature.” I’ve been fishing for 50 years. In chest and down, mended upstream after the Woods in Oregon. INGRID HANSEN That Harrison would turn to pigs is TowardI the middle of the 20th century, waders and studded boots, we made our line landed, and the fly swung slowly fitting, given his own porcine qualities. when I was 8 or 9 years old, my great- way across a shallow riffle and around a through the holding water. He stripped The Ancient Minstrel This is not intended as an insult, for grandfather, John Brant, a descendant car-sized boulder, and finally crossed the off a yard of line between casts, and when Jim Harrison there’s much to admire about both pigs of Mohawk Chief Joseph Brant, taught narrow bedrock channel that made the he had reached his limit took a long step and Harrison: their happy hedonism, me to fish for trout on a creek that ran chest waders necessary. Jake, at 6-feet-5, downstream between casts. I wished 272 pages, their keen intelligence, their enviable through his property in western Penn- had less trouble than I did. hard for luck, wanting him to feel for the softcover: $25 ability to be “utterly indulgent at the ta- sylvania. I remember the day I landed He carried our fly rod, and I carried first time in his young life the elemental Grove Press, 2016. ble.” The book’s first, and titular, novella and released my first brook trout on a some truths that I didn’t want to share: surge of a wild, powerful steelhead on a finds Harrison — or, rather, his rueful, fly. Afterwards, as we walked under a the knowledge that anadromous fish downstream run. fictionalized stand-in — settled down at clear sky through springtime woods back runs have long been in steep decline for But I wasn’t surprised when it didn’t a Montana farm to write “a magnum ver- toward the farmhouse, Granddad, his a multitude of exhaustively documented happen. sion of A Thousand Acres,” sneak drinks strong brown arm across my bony shoul- reasons; that the dams and hatcheries While Jake fished, a small flock of behind the back of his sharp-eyed wife, der, told me: “Out here, outdoors, in the built to alleviate the problems have only mergansers flew upstream so close over and “fulfill his childhood dream of owning woods and along the rivers and creeks, is made things worse; that before Jake was the water we could hear their rapid wing- his own pig.” The gauzy plot wanders where you’ll find most of your happiness.” born, there were days when I landed six beats. After the ducks, a whistling osprey through memory and meditation, with oc- Since that magical day, I’ve learned, over or eight steelhead a day, and now I feel circled high overhead for several minutes. casional flashes of animal husbandry; it’s and over again, in many places and in lucky to hook that many in a year; that A pair of Canada geese trailed by six a pleasant and disorienting reading expe- many different ways, that Tolstoy and back when stoneflies hatched in the wa- downy goslings drifted by and stopped rience, akin to getting drunk in a field on Granddad Brant were right. ter we were fishing today, 30 or 40 trout across from us to rest behind a curtain of an idle summer day. The sharpest char- Now here I am in the 21st century, an made an average morning. alder leaves that brushed the cold, clear acters are the pigs. One piglet, Marjorie, old man in southern Oregon fishing with We stationed ourselves on a waist- water. All the while, somewhere behind “collapsed against his body as if they were my grandson Jake, who just turned 16. deep gravel bar near midstream. A deep, us, a water ouzel sang. lovers. … She fluttered her eyes at him Jake’s angling life began 10 years ago, slow channel ran along the opposite After two hours, as we waded out, the and he couldn’t help but wink.” when, using a hunk of salami for bait, bank. Boulders strewn along its bottom water ouzel’s song called a helpful notion Anthropomorphic though Marjorie he tried and failed to catch a perch that created eddies and crosscurrents where of Thoreau’s to mind: that many men go may be, pigs differ from humans in one had somehow ended up in the irrigation trout could be expected to feed. A few fishing all their lives without realizing important way: So far as we know, they tank on our property outside Ashland. yards below our stand, the widening that it isn’t fish they’re after. can’t conceptualize their own death. Not long after that, my wife, Hilde, took channel became a gravel-bottomed The water ouzel’s song rippled in the Decline and demise, on the other hand, him to a nearby lake, where he caught a steelhead riffle. air behind us as we left. stalk Minstrel’s third and final novella, planted cutthroat trout on salmon eggs. Jake covered the trout water with a The Case of the Howling Buddhas. Al- Later that same year, casting an elk hair small floating muddler, casting upstream though Buddhas is nominally about a caddis fly, he landed and released 10 or and across, dropping the barbless fly in Michael Baughman lives with his wife Zen-like cult operating in Michigan, its a dozen fat rainbows in a friend’s pond the likely places. He mended the floating of 50 years and his extended family real subject is Detective Sunderson, a near the North Umpqua River. The fol- line well, and in half an hour raised three in Ashland, Oregon. His eighth book, recurring Harrison anti-hero, who, in this lowing morning, I drove him down to the small trout. Two turned away before they Grower’s Market, is a novel about case, both encourages and laments the river, and, after half an hour of fishing a touched the fly, and the third took it, but combat veterans raising illegal marijuana e late Jim Harrison. advances of a 15-year-old girl. When he’s small gray nymph, he hooked and landed the hook didn’t connect. in the Northwest. It was published in ERIK PETERSEN not preoccupied with Barbara, Sunderson his first wild trout at the Fairview Pool. To cover the downstream riffle, we March 2015.

26 High Country News August 8, 2016 www.hcn.org High Country News 27 U.S. $5 | Canada $6

HEARD AROUND THE WEST | BY BETSY MARSTON

WASHINGTON MONTANA If you thought finding a 6-inch- It would have seemed like a true prairie miracle: long rat (12, counting the tail) Life-saving M&M chocolates dropping like pen- circling your toilet bowl was an nies from heaven — but, alas, no candy will be urban legend, think again. Each involved. The rest of the story is true, however. year, the King County Public Prairie dogs, a keystone species that endangered Health Department gets up to black-footed ferrets rely on for food, are threat- 80 complaints about toilet rats, ened by sylvatic plague, which is spread by fleas. reports The Seattle Times, and Although individual ferrets can be vaccinated by all too often, the humans sound injection, the UL Bend National Wildlife Refuge close to panic. “Wife heard scrab- in northeastern Montana is much too vast for bling noises in toilet,” said one rangers to cover on foot, strewing vaccine-coated man. “Lifted lid and saw rat. She pellets for the prairie dogs. So this September, screamed! Flushed three times the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service plans to use and rat disappeared.” The couple drones that have been fitted out with a “glorified did not stop there. They squirted gumball machine,” reports the Guardian. Every dish soap, flushed repeatedly, and 30 feet, and in three directions, the jerry-built also poured bleach and boiling drones will spit out specially made pellets suf- CALIFORNIA water down the kitchen sink. Mark Twain would be proud: A frog attains li- fused with vaccine. They might not be the M&Ms o at the Calaveras County Jumping Frog Jubilee. SOL NEELMAN Another resident, who called in See more weird Western sports online at hcne.ws/weird-sports. of rumor, but agency biologist Randy Machett the middle of the night, sounded says there’s no doubt prairie dogs will gobble almost amused: “Heard a splash- them up like candy; lab tests showed that they ing noise at 1:30 a.m. in the toilet. ends with the slightly ominous question: “Will found the bait “delicious.” Only 300 black-footed Looked to see a rat doing laps. Within five min- you still leave the toilet seat up?” ferrets remain in the United States, all descend- utes it had disappeared.” One desperate caller ed from seven ferrets that were bred in captivity considered hand-to-paw combat with the tres- COLORADO in the early 1980s. passer: “Found a rat in my toilet bowl this eve- If a 2,200-pound bull got loose on the highway ning. It is quite alive, and unhappy to be where it and went running wildly through traffic, most THE WEST is. … I’ll try using dish soap and flushing. If that of us would run, too — in the opposite direc- This July, two transgender congressional candi- doesn’t work, I guess I’ll look for heavy gloves tion. But Erin Stadelman, a rancher’s wife, dates — both Democrats named Misty — won and see if I can remove it that way.” No word on confronted the wayward bull, racing in flip-flops their primaries as well as a place in future his- what happened next. Rodent-control specialist up her driveway outside Telluride, Colorado. tory books. In Utah, Misty Snow, a 30-year-old Don Pace said he understands that finding a rat She described the incident in the Ouray County cashier, is a long shot to unseat Republican Sen. in the bathroom can be a jarring experience. “It Plaindealer, noting that a state patrolman had Mike Lee, and in Colorado, Misty Plowright, a does freak you out because you’re not expecting already arrived on the scene, but appeared in 33-year-old IT worker, is running in Colorado it.” He recommended dousing the toilet bowl with no hurry to come out from behind his patrol car. Springs against the very conservative Repub- dish soap, which breaks the surface tension of the So “with the realization that I was on my own,” lican Rep. Doug Lamborn. Both women are water and makes it harder for the animal to keep Stadelman picked up a stick, walked toward the concerned about progressive issues, including swimming. Rats are typically lured into plumb- animal — aptly named Red Bull — and threw a national $15 minimum wage and booting big ing when food has been poured down a kitchen it at him, striking him right between the eyes. money out of politics. drain; the animals quickly discover that toilets That got the big guy’s attention. The officer are an easy way to get into a house. “Toilet rats pointed to an open gate, and Stadelman walked are egalitarian,” the Times concluded, as likely to toward Red Bull, yelling, “Get in there!” Surpris- WEB EXTRA For more from Heard around the West, see pop up in a mansion as in a modest apartment. ingly, the animal followed orders and calmly hcn.org. Pace said it helps to keep the drain of the kitchen entered the pasture. The Colorado State Patrol Tips and photos of Western oddities are appreciated and sink clean, using a cup of baking soda and a cup does a lot to keep people safe, Stadelman said, often shared in this column. Write [email protected] or tag of vinegar, and then rinsing with boiling water. but “I guess it was best to let the woman with photos #heardaroundthewest on Instagram. Toilet rats aren’t that common, but the article the stick handle that little traffic problem.”

High Bringing up climate change can be a downer for clients Country simply hoping to sh a fabled river or see their rst News “ For people who care about the West. glacier. Scaring the kids or getting crosswise High Country News covers the important issues and stories that are unique to the American West with a with Dad’s political views are also sure ways magazine, a weekly column service, books and a website, hcn.org. For editorial comments or questions, write to blow your gratuity. High Country News, P.O. Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428 or Tim Lydon, in his essay, “Outdoor out tters can’t stay quiet on climate change,” [email protected], or call 970-527-4898. from Writers on” the Range, hcn.org/wotr 28 High Country News August 8, 2016